Bare Bottomed No More (MJ Sailing - EP 10)

[@orobiller1]

I cant imagine the sense of accomplishment you two will have when you are shoving off for the first time with this vessel! Very inspiring!! Thank you Matt & Jessica!

[@MJSailing]

Yes! And that day can not come soon enough!, lol

[@robertlee8042]

Panels hooking on bottom with cam cleats on top-brilliant. Perfect.

[@chrissummers2689]

Suggestion if not already done. Run the wires leading into the white box for the solar control electronics through rubber grommets. With the movement you'll experience on the water, the bare metal will chafe the wires and short them out. Also, use diametric grease on your connections to minimize corrosion. Tracing electrical glitches at sea is a bi...

[@HighMesaTrader]

Excellent vid, good to not only know your craft from stem - to - stern but knowing the electrics and junctions can save your vessel. Compliments on your thoroughness you both will understand every inch of her. , Wife and I have been there, done that... We spent 4 months "on the hill" completely re-wiring our 64' Ketch from Bow-Stern, Port-Starboard to the top of the mast heads, frankly this saved serious time when a glitch or two raised their annoying little problems and kept us from having EXPENSIVE repairs to the system, isolate, isolate, isolate, ground, ground and ground some more.. Sail on, we are enjoying your videos and time -in .

[@jackwmoody]

You guys were REALLY funny this episode. I'm so glad y'all can keep your sense of humor through everything. Boat looks great!

[@MJSailing]

Thanks! It's the only way we can get through it. :)

[@stevesheliflying]

I know this is an old video, but I am just going through your vids now. Matt you are pretty lucky to have a girl who can do as much, and works as hard as Jessica does. You are both doing an awesome job on your boat.

[@svhappymondays9123]

Bloody hard work but it will be worth it in the end, She's looking great well done

[@evildisaster6933]

Wow! That eyes of yours is pretty amazing!

[@queenofyeay]

That is some of the best wiring I have seen aboard a sailboat... heck it's one of the nicest wiring jobs I've ever seen *anywhere* and I used to be a diesel mechanic I have seen a lot of wiring over the years. Good job.

[@ELCADAROSA]

Consider using LEDs to illuminate not just areas you would normally occupy, but also in areas where you (Matt) might need to access at night; i.e., the electrical area and engine compartment. I painted the bilge under my salon, and engine compartment, bright white, then added strips of white LEDs. Made a huge difference! Additionally, you could use warm white (or red or blue) LEDs in/under cabinets, in the head, and/or salon/berthing areas for ambiance or late night lighting when you really don't want to expose your eyes to bright lights.

[@SailingLandlocked]

Looks like you are getting close to completion. Keep up the hard work, it will be well worth it.

[@toddreimer1158]

Wiring looks good so far.

[@azib958]

You guys are making great progress, looks great!

[@brandongorman1370]

the boat is looking good can't wait for you guys to get back on the water keep up the videos

[@bigwallyhdfb]

Great videos keep up the great work boat is looking awesome

[@seajourney5491]

y'all are being very smart! extra time and materials now will save you a ton of time and materials later at a higher cost

[@Xyzabc998]

Great to see a vlog actually concerned with the nuts and bolts of sailing.

[@MJSailing]

Glad to see you're enjoying the rebuild! :D

[@pjer66666]

Another great episode. The work seems to be progressing very nicely. Thanks for sharing!

[@MJSailing]

Nicely but still slowly, haha.

[@svbacchus4949]

Good job crew, lots of BIG steps forward this time!

[@MJSailing]

Thank you!

[@billb2176]

Fantastic to see u guys getting some great results after so many hard yards in the making - style sense (wood paneling - brushed T&G) looks very pleasing to my eye :-))))

[@MJSailing]

Thank you so much Bill! We're really happy with the look of our T&G as well....it really brings everything together. :)

[@brentrichter1131]

Nice work!! Woodwork, wiring and paintwork looks excellent.

[@MJSailing]

Thank you so much Brent!

[@gac914]

Nice, neat wiring job!!

[@baseballDUDE32]

You kids are doing some clean work.😎

[@stevecrombie5357]

Thanks for the catch up video. You have been freakn busy. It's all really starting to show. Good job.

[@MJSailing]

Definitely time for another vacation. ;) Glad you're enjoying the videos.

[@cozydram1]

i know we don't know each other.....i have to say I'm proud of what you've done and achieved ....thank you for sharing.....please don't miss any details out.....love it even the opps.....thank you folks.........regards Phil

[@MJSailing]

Thank you so much Phil, we're glad to hear you're enjoying every step of the rebuild. :D

[@edrosenberger6947]

I'm new here and I thought this boat was fiberglass 'cause the hull has such a nicely faired shape, and it has no chines.....it has the nicest shape I've seen on any steel hull. Love to sail it on the North-West Passage to Alaska :). You two are great together and are really good at making interesting and informative videos....thank you!

[@Bacoprah]

great episode guys :) Keep having fun getting prepared for the big fun once she's in the water! Cheers from PEI Canada, Bryan

[@Unwrittentimeline]

You guys are doing great work on the boat. The inside is coming along great. I don't know if you watch a lot of other channels but the guy at Sail Life is doing something similar and does good work.

[@visszahang]

Nice progress so far. Keep it up.

[@roberttorres1110]

Oh, and she's starting to look great 👍🏼. I'm loving what you guys are doing to that boat. Good job 👏🏼!

[@johnmurphy6366]

Really coming along nicely,congratulations on a job well done

[@MJSailing]

Thank you John!

[@dirtroadsailing6418]

Hey that was a great video showing some of your pain staking efforts to make your boat new again. That was a really good job on the wiring, especially using the heat shrink labels. The one concern I have is with the resistors you showed near your engine bay that was part of the wind generator install. I know nothing about wind generators, but I am an electrical engineer and typically wire wound resistors like that are made to dissipate excess electrical energy. Essentially they are electric heating elements that turn electricity into heat. You have them mounted very close to a wood panel so they could be a fire risk. Either mount some stand offs so they will be away from the wood or find a different controller for the wind generator that doesn't need resistors. I may be off base, but it's food for thought. The last thing you want is a fire on board.

[@mikea1893]

I have the same hat you are wearing and I love mine. love the show, hard work is so much fun? bet you cant what to be off the hard.

[@skycop56]

You two are amazing. Some day on the high seas when it really counts you will be glad you took the time to do all this work correctly. I look forward to your next videos.

[@MJSailing]

Thank you John! We spent two years (weekends only) outfitting our last boat for cruising, and while on the water we were SO happy we'd taken the time to do everything right before leaving. :)

[@damienmills293]

So I used to be a painter... dip the brush into the paint about an inch. Then swiftly tap the bristles of the brush on the inside of the can/pail/tin. This maximises the amount of paint that goes into the brush. This stops drips and gives you lots of paint to apply. Paint with the end of the bristles not the sides. Buy brushes with long, flexible bristles. Keep them clean and wash them at the end of everyday and they will work well and last much longer. You guys have bitten off a huge project... respect.. :)

[@mattjohnson6716]

Thanks for the info Damien. Painting is by far our worst skill.... we'll give that a try. Matt

[@dtonvista]

Thank you, very informative. This looks like a lot of work! Good job too!

[@supershane1960]

Thanks guys, good to see all the various things you've already accomplished. Looking forward to the next download. Cheers for now... ;-}

[@lanestreet1431]

I really like the look you are giving to your boat's interior, real homey. I understand your electrical work is a WIP, however I noted wires running into a metal box (solar charge controller?) that need bushings or the metal box will cut thru the wire's insulation. Also the battery cables running thru the conduit under the engine need to be protected, the end of that conduit will cut the insulation as the boat vibrates. Your attention to detail is outstanding and I apologize if these issues have already been addressed. I am still catching up on your series. Fair winds.

[@Americal1970]

Here is a painting tip, I am 70, and I was working for or with my old man who was a interior finish contractor. A master painter. He really was. BRUSH MARKS..... solvent base , 1or 2 part coatings . I don't care what the lable sez. Tou thin it.... How much.? Fact , the second you open the can the solvent starts flashing off. Different coatings use different solvents, what you clean up with. Straght from the can it is impossible to not leave brush marks. Here is a example. I never use a "water modified oil base" I stir and pour some in a nother bucket, try this, try and brush it on, its thick that makes the brush DRAG. You can't screw up, remember the solvent is flashing out of the paint. Add solvent in and thin it till the brush glides slippery you will be able to feelit ( we did super high end interior jobs and BRUSH MARKS ON DOORS and mill work, furniture.... NO WAY). THE BRUSH stops dragging... Add a little more solvent and then you will feel and see it flows off the brush , add a little more and the brush marks will lay down , if they don't add a little more solvent. If you are putting on a hi gloss its important to use a boar brisel I have Purdy Brushs.. Example a six panel door in a house. I would get one side and if it is in the summer I would have to THIN because it gets thick that fast. And you will see brush marks starting to show and the brush is starting to feel stiff. If you thin it out to much add the raw factory paint, or just keep going and it thicken. .. I must have painted..? Window sashes and I NEVER used masking tape on the glass, when the paint flows it is easy and fast. When you paint a vertical surface with a brush, start at the top, why..? Because you will be carrying a thiner paint, you will wet the surface and chase the "wet edge" down hill, any runs you feather out before you reload the brush. If you go up ...... Just don't do it.. I can't tell ya how much to add to any given amount of paint, because it depends on the conditions. This is true for,, Ayloid Enamel, Contact Cement, polys, var, Epoxies.. NEVER EVER PUT WATER BASE NOTHIN ON WOOD.. In California I have to buy the really good coatings in pints and quarts, some are labeled "Industrial Coating" and are labeled "for metal " . Another revelation , I called BERE BECAUSE the gloss wasn't gloss. It was a semigloss MAYBE. I was told that if I invented a true Gloss in "water mod" oil or water base. I would solved the biggest mistery in paint chemistry. This isn't hard, more a, rhythm. Wet slippery, feather and eye Wow i came back to finish this and she was reading the lable. Just remember you keep adding solvent.

[@HighFlight2k2]

Good work guys!

[@MJSailing]

Thanks!

[@jonhering5660]

You two have done a Ton of work....I sure hope that was reflected in the price you paid for the boat...lol Keep up the good work and I am sure you are looking so forward to just sailing her!

[@fritzsproul6702]

great job guys. If someone wants to do a project boat, this will make them think twice.....hahaha

[@MJSailing]

For sure! I would have if I'd seen this two years ago. ;)

[@sailingspokojny7014]

Great work you two. The only problem is - I'm sitting here watching you two work and not getting anything done on my boat. Oh well I'll say it was my lunch break. All the best s/v Spokojny.

[@MJSailing]

That sounds like a good excuse to me!

[@dalebuckley6073]

Look's great and you will be the only one that notice's .

[@glenn6229]

Really Nice Work you both have done, especially the wood work & finishing .

[@robertlee8042]

Very interesting. Lots of work. Lots of problem solving. What did you both do before this? You have chops.

[@deibertmichael]

Grommets needed in Elect box! Vibrarion will cut the wire! Always! Contain all relays ETC. in an enclosure!

[@CheersWarren]

Hi saw your rigging up the wiring for the wind generator. A boating friend has a sun tracking large solar array at his house and added a wind generator, he has all sorts of sensors and has found that the wind generator is surprisingly poor at generating power compared to the equivalent one of his panels. As soon as the wind dropped the generation dropped to almost zero. But it does work at night! It will be interesting if you have a better experience where you have better wind than on land. Cheers Warren

[@mattjohnson6716]

Warren, We debated installing a wind gen, but since we're going way, way North, we figured the wind may end-up being a good option than solar only. We also found a good price on a D400 which is one of the top rated gen made.

[@MylesNicholas]

For a smooth finish heat up your paint tin in a warm bath, it will flow easily from a brush.

[@roberttorres1110]

Don't forget the most important addition on the boat 🚣🏼,"Zinc Plates"!

[@MJSailing]

Those will be going on just after we finish the anti-fouling, right before we go in the water. :)

[@svdellajean253]

Great video. I did a complete electrical upgrade of my boat about a year ago. If you haven't already, I highly recommend drawing a schematic with the gauge, wire/cable ID# or label name of your DC and AC system and laminate it for future reference.

[@mattjohnson6716]

I did, but it looks like I drew it with my left foot. And I'm not about to post that hideous thing online. When I find my laptop mouse in our boxes of stored crap, and I have the time, I'll draw a proper one in CAD. Matt

[@MidnightVisions]

13:30 The wiring setup and labeling really looks good, but I hope you did not screw the bus bar and inverter into the hull. Those screw holes will eventually leak causing water leakage to short out the entire bus. You should relocate that equipment or mount it in a way that screws don't enter the hull. Flexing of the hull will cause the screws to eventually widen and crack the screw holes, causing blistering and stripping and eventual water leakage.

[@jeromewelch7409]

Hello guys great progress love the video... The to you guys are beautiful.... Matt ... Where the boats aluminum I'm assuming you've bonded the boat many spots to the negative post also have you included lightning arresting in your system design? .... Peace brother

[@niceguy2171]

You're doing a good job on the systems etc.. although would have liked to see you keep the electrical bus bars all up a bit higher, and the inverter too, as water gets into boats..no matter how hard you try to keep it out. The labeling is terrific, but almost to clean to be seen on a boat, which is supposed to be a rats nest of wiring you're trying to figure out on the water when something isn't working!! from experience on others boats unfortunately! But it's really starting to look sharp in there, and brush strokes are fine btw ;)

[@AndyUK-Corrival]

Great video, you guys are doing a fab job and shouldn't be so critical of yourselves, really it is very neat. Interested to see your dump resistors and solenoid for your D400 as I have a Duogen wind and water generator but not yet bought the regulator. The regulator from Eclectric Energy is very expensive and I have seen the one you have on eBay but I wasn't sure it would work with the Duogen. Any advice or a good source to buy the resistors and solenoid? Btw I love the interior styling and the brush strokes honestly add character and I would have hated a sprayed finish or one that looked sprayed... Regards. Andy UK. Sailing Rival 32

[@siaripop7]

Wow! Did I get that right, twelve coats of various paints before you even paint the bottom color? Did you move the support jacks while doing all of that painting too? All of the cabinets look really great; and the wiring looks very professional too. Looking good guys!

[@MJSailing]

Let's see....two coats of the primer, about five coats of barrier, and then 2-3 coats of anti-fouling. So about 9-10 I guess.

[@ronharbin6678]

Awesome video and great job on the bottom and wiring. Just one nit pick for Matt - some of your wires are running to terminal blocks vs. bus bars (terminology). I'm curious how you are mounting things like the inverter to the inside of the hull?? Also, what are you using to make the heat shrink labels? You can just address in a future video. You two are very inspiring - keep up the good work. Ron

[@mattjohnson6716]

Ron, You're absolutely correct about the terminal blocks. As you may have noticed, I was happily working away when a camera was thrust in my face. Babbling and brain farts where the result of being unprepared. The tags were done with standard (non adhesive lined) shrink tube and a label maker. They've held up well for us in the past and make life much easier for tracking any faults down later. We also write in marker ever two to three feet along the length of the wire what it is. The entire interior of the compartment is fiberglassed plywood. There is about 2" from the wood to the hull, so no worries about mounting anything there. Matt

[@thatdepends]

absolutely amazed at you guys, where did you learn to do all this?

[@CheersWarren]

Aluminium boats are great but a lot of special work required. I was surprised how shallow the hull looked. I don't see a centerboard or maybe it's just an illusion , maybe you already did address the design in another video. Cheers Warren

[@CheersWarren]

Oh.I looked at previous videos but daze off does have a centerboard. And I see its visible in this video too. The shoal draft can be so useful.... Cheers Warren

[@tentimes4]

Congratulations on the work so far. The electronic work looks clean, but I may not be seeing this correctly. Is the duplex wire you are using marine grade or did you decide that housing wire would suffice? I couldn't quite tell.

[@mattjohnson6716]

Thanks Jason. Everything is marine tinned wire (typically Ancor) as are all lugs, eyes and splices. Everything is also with adhesive lined shrink tube. It's easier for us to simple buy in bulk and use the same for everything. We used duplex just for the added chafe protection offered by the jacket. Everything is ran through conduit, but just in case, I wanted the added protection of the jacket. Matt

[@HDRider1601]

FYI, I know I'm late to the game here weld joints done properly can be ground down smooth so theres now worry about raised edges. Now it looks like you maybe had some aluminum plate welded on the outside, if thats the case then it's a dirrerent prep.

[@dusty265]

Boat is really looking great, Interested to see what you will do with the fuel system, Do you plan on opening the Tanks to clean any sludge that may be sitting in them?

[@MJSailing]

Oh yeah, that was a project from last spring....and it was my job to get in and clean it! :) facebook.com/mattandjessicasailing/photos/a.364714583552938.91499.353920244632372/1153723907985331/?type=3&theater

[@robertlee8042]

Seems to be so very little keel, not only for tracking but also to provide adequate righting moment.

[@spindreams]

Suggest getting DC/DC adaptors for things like laptop charging, much more efficient than using an inverter to convert to 110v/230v AC and then using the AC/DC convertor that came with your laptop which just converts that back down to maybe 19v.

[@mattjohnson6716]

Thanks. We tried that with the first boat, but found it was too inconvenient for our way of doing things. The reliability was pretty poor for the convertors we purchased (ebay china specials), we kept the inverter on 24/7 anyway (for the tv :), and the boat already had 110v outlets just about everywhere. Power was seldom an issue with the last boat. We'll see if things change this time since we have 175 watts less solar, but now a wind gen. Matt

[@markbernier8434]

Hate to mention this but did you check clearances on those resistors? They get pretty hot in use. I'm thining stand offs? Heat sink maybe?

[@mattjohnson6716]

We have a stainless shield to add above the foam where the resistors are. This was just first layout session before everything gets permanently installed and fastened down.

[@mikecarnivale7304]

I'm new to your channel, so I'm catching up. Quick question now that you've been sailing this boat for some time, you ever have issues with water getting up on to your battery busbar or inverter? In rougher seas, I can see water that might be in your bildge running up one side a few inches.

[@jameslane2667]

does an additive that you can put in your paint that's called a leveler for brush painting and I'll make it look like it's been sprayed

[@derekgardiner8466]

Is that yellow primer acid etch primer, if so I'd have had mask and goggles for that.

[@captainheather]

Hey guys I've been watching you for awhile and very impressed with he go-get-it and do-it-right approach! I'm a charter captain in sf living aboard a 43 ft aluminum sloop with my 3 kids that I also charter on day sails to make a living. I have also done my homework on owning and maintaining an alimunim boat and would like to sail through the northwest passage on her some day soon. Anyway, I write to ask if you have considered installing an electro guard system of any kind? I ended up with a simple built-in meter in the hull to watch the potential and it has been tremendously helpful. I also have a super sensitive meter with a special anode for the aluminum hull. Whenever we get a lot of rain runoff, a herring spawn or go up a brackish river I can tell if our anodes are insufficient and throw a few over the side clipped to the rail to keep the hull in the green and prevent electrolysis and also know when my anodes are due for replacement. A shaft brush is also great. Great work!

[@mattjohnson6716]

Hi Heather. Regarding the simple meter you use, is it just one LED connected to the hull/positive side of the 12v system and a second on the hull and neg? I know there are commercially available units, but I haven't been able to locate one.... I just want to read the manual. Is this what you have? Thanks, Matt

[@captainheather]

matt johnson nope it's a meter by electroguard they are in Southern California and it is essentially built into the hull- two very sensitive and specific aluminum anodes on the outside are connected to a meter that you would probably mount near that panel you just made. The meter shows you when you are over or under protected or just perfect. It really works well. Find me at finedayforsailing.com if you want to chat about it further

[@captainheather]

I could email you a picture of the installation if you'd like. With all that care you are taking redoing the boat it would be a great time to install some corrosion protection!

[@mattjohnson6716]

Oh, a silver-silver chloride electrode. We haven't bought one yet, but are probably going to try saving some cash and just use an electrode and multi-meter. I was told the ag-agcl only last a year or two if emerged in water all the time. Do the instructions give an indication how long until replacement? Matt

[@robertlaird6746]

On your new catamaran build, are you going to use any wood or are you going to build it like Onboard Lifestyle did?

[@normstephens8354]

Seems like you'd want some kind of fire resistant material over that foam near all those electrical connections?

[@mattjohnson6716]

We have a stainless shield to add above the foam where the resistors are. This was just first layout session before everything gets permanently installed and fastened down. Extra credit: there's actually a missing fuse there too :)

[@normstephens8354]

Sounds good! :-) I'm always concerned about fire in small enclosed spaces. The fumes from foams and plastics can really take your breath away in a hurry!

[@mattjohnson6716]

We've had a few close calls with the foam and welding already.... not something I want to worry about or smell again. Also, I'm guessing the batteries will reach the point where the dump load resistors come into play very infrequently. With the constant load on the bank with the fridge and whatnot, the resistors are just there for the off chance I forget to tie the wind gen blades down and leave the boat unattended. So hopefully, no heat. If I see it's an issue later on, I can move them to a different location lower down (more likely for me to touch though). Matt

[@AndyUK-Corrival]

matt johnson I must admit I will be putting my dump resistors for my Duogen in an aluminium vented box. The other option is to have the generator wired to a heating element in a clarifier for hot water but might need some fancy relay to switch back to dump resistors when water hot.

[@matryxmichaelcimino3913]

I have seen others use a copper paint for the bottom to minimize barn iCal build up. just a thought

[@mattjohnson6716]

While Steve Dashew is doing that with success. I'm still a bit worried to do that with the aluminum.

[@deibertmichael]

Hope you replaced centerboard rollers! May be sloppy and bang around if you didn't!

[@bkackman]

Boy, that hull work is exhausting just to watch, I can't imagine how exhausitng it is to actually be the one doing it! Yeh, the mask isn't really your best look, Jess! But better than the gorilla tape!!!

[@TarasKalapun]

Can you write down the bottom painting process you did please? what paints, how many layers? How did you choose the paint? I also have an aluminum sailboat and need to do the bottom job soon.

[@mattjohnson6716]

Taras. First let me say that we are far from experts on paint. Interlux has changed their recommendations for aluminum boats due to environmental issues not performance. Previously, they recommended an acid wash, chromate base then barrier coat. Now, they recommend just their barrier coat. I wanted to duplicate their older option. Therefore, we: 1) washed the hull with a strong degreaser 2) stainless wire wheeled any nooks/weld lines that could harbor corrosion. 3) ground/sanded with 35 grit to bright metal 4) Alumiprep 33 acid wash (only towards the stern where light corrosion was) 5) Alodine wash (only towards the stern were light corrosion was) 6) within an hour of starting the grinding, applied first layer of Pettit Aluma Protect Strontium Chromate Aluminum Epoxy Primer 7) two hours later, a second coat of Aluma protect was put on on. 8) next morning the first coat of Interlux epoxy interprotect 2000 was applied 9) now fairing with phenolic microballoons and epoxy. 10) 4 more coats of Interprotect 2000 11) some kind of bottom paint Matt

[@finaltom5]

With the movement of the waves, pounding on your hull, do the movable cabinet doors rattle much? Any tiny sound can be irritating at times.

[@SailingTranquilityBay]

Hey Matt, can we hire you to finish our wiring? Looks great!

[@MJSailing]

Sure...for $90 an hour. ;)

[@round51]

LOL now wait, am I having a Mandela effect moment here, was it just a dream I had that there was a vid about you working on your rigging?

[@MJSailing]

That was the first part of episode 9....we're still working on getting our corrected rigging back.

[@jameslane2667]

when you get a little extra money you should buy you an Icom 718 sideband radio upper and lower sideband you can open it up into 11 meters to it's a very it's something that you really need on that boat

[@mattjohnson6716]

Thanks James. We were given an older Icom M710, but have yet to install it an verify it's condition.

[@MylesNicholas]

Red LED lighting above the wheel?

[@poolraider7211]

Giving Matt the project to sand the brush strokes has now turned into building a catamaran 4 years later. Not sure that one evens out work wise.

[@jameslane2667]

every scene that he welded on the bottom I would take fiberglass resin and put it in Kota resin over it let it dry sand is smooth and you're not going to see it anyway it's going to be underneath the water line

[@stevenpride5459]

Hey Matt, I'm in Stuart, want to help with my wiring :P Looks great guys! Seriously though, if y'all are still in the area I'd love to meet up and pick your brains about some things I'm going to be dealing with in my restore (particularly flooring issues)

[@codyjones1098]

Matt. Only one idea. NEVER ever if you have to hit yourself in the head first do it, but dont let that girl go!

[@AG-kt4qe]

Are you guys home owners or you 2 decide to just wanted to be on a boat?

[@chasemixon6327]

The wiring looked great to me... I can show you none cleaned up wiring if you want... ;)

[@jameslane2667]

they run about $800 for an Icom 718 you have much better luck with that radio as far as it's very entertaining to when you don't have nothing to do you can be talking to people all over the world

[@flat4314]

Why do you need a tarp under your boat?

[@MJSailing]

The EPA likes it there for environmental reasons, (less chemicals seeping into the ground), but we like having it because then we don't track as much dirt into our boat each day.

[@rickymyers3103]

M as meticulous as you are I'm sure that bottom will be fine, and your not so neat IS neat , and yeah it made it funny we know what your talkn bout , much love , best wishes and peace out

[@captainheather]

My last one lasted five years

[@mattjohnson6716]

pretty good! Thanks for the information. Matt

[@jameslane2667]

if that was body putty that you put on your mother spoke to soon I would take and brush Barber glass resin over it too because body putty is not that waterproof

[@mattjohnson6716]

The filler is phenolic microballoons and epoxy. We'll also have 4 more layer of barrier coat applied over the hull. We don't use any polyester since it's just easier for us to just purchase large quantities of one product and keep it on hand. Also, no compatibility issues.

[@muralimuralidharan6496]

"Stromium" chromate? Surely you mean Strontium Chromate.

[@mattjohnson6716]

Pretty sure the only reason I passed Chemistry is that I dated the teacher's daughter.....Not sure what Jess' excuse is :) Matt