Basement Insulation Tips

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[@askthebuilder]

@4x12 It's snow melt. The roof is not yet on the house. They are doing everything possible to get it under roof before the really bad weather hits here in New Hampshire. When it comes to things that will / may be hidden down the road like the insulation, I don't like to experiment with products. I prefer to use a tape that is recommended by the mfr.

[@christypelak518]

This video was actually very helpful. I have a walkout basement with bare cement walls. I had to demo out all the old insulation because of water damage leak from the old roof and moisture. I'm doing the renovation myself to save money. I live in west michign and it gets cold. I subscribed looking forward to more helpful videos.

[@askthebuilder]

TNX for the sub. Be sure to look at many of my past 650+ videos for other tips. I also recommend you subscribe to my FREE AsktheBuilder.com newsletter. www.askthebuilder.com/newsletter/

[@dynomax666]

I am so glad to see you using the proper tape. So many carpentry jockeys use red tuck tape, and they are just wasting their time. 2 months after putting it on it falls off on its own. This is in fact the proper way to do your basement.

[@lenmelso2838]

The foam has to be applied directly in contact w the concrete. Use spray foam adhesive (Dow) applied around perimeter of foam board and "x" from corner to corner. This assures vapor will not "leak" through top or bottom of panel. Run PL sealant in T&G seam of panels before installing next panel. 3.5" masonry screws w/ washers are good idea to firmly secure foam to wall. Now if it is done this way, the vapor will stop at the foam and go back through the concrete to the outside. Any other way, NO

[@LayneRoxxx]

I like to strategically spray foam between 2x4 boards and the rigid foam....that way it pushes it against the wall.

[@kpineyro]

The 2x4 is pushing against the foam which is then in contact with the building concrete. Len Melso

[@TheBuildgreen4U]

The choice of insulation is critical. T & G 2” foam board and rock wool insulation . In order for insulation to be effective, it must be continuous ( foam board ). The additional insulation between the studs should be rock wool. It repels water. Fiberglass and cellulose trap moisture. Also the rock wool does not ignite or burn. The same amount of work is required to install the materials. Installed correctly, there will be no return calls , that the system failed.

[@askthebuilder]

"It repels water." WHAT? Do you know what rock wool is and how it's made? Do you know what fiberglass is and how it's made? The ONLY reason I'm leaving your comment up is to hold it high as an example of WHY you should NOT BELIEVE everything you see on the Internet. My college degree is in geology. I happen to know that silica is perhaps the most abundant element here on the Earth Ball. And I know all about aquariums, rain hitting skylights, etc.

[@glinka57]

@AsktheBuilder Thanks, I'll do a semi-annual inspection for two years. It's for a customer and everyone says its a non-issue. My main concern is the flooring getting moisture damage at the edges. So would like to spot any signs early IF its an issue. anyways great vid

[@billfromwi]

My foundation is exterior foam with plastic vapor barrier installed on the outside. I built my stud walls 2 inches away from the concrete wall. non batted fiberglass insulation, with no vapor barrier. Basement has always been dry and never below 70'. Basically a room build within a room. The 2 inch gap is not sealed at the ends of the walls. Air flows between the concrete walls and my stud walls.

[@n2lederhosen]

Heat (energy) only transfers from high concentration to low concentration. The cold concrete wall being of lower energy content 'absorbs' heat energy from the basement air which has higher energy content. Cold does not "radiate".

[@askthebuilder]

@rcb4554 Not if you use closed cell foam. The blue or pink stuff.

[@askthebuilder]

@rcb4554 You can. I wouldn't do it though as most white foam is open cell.

[@STeeLothabestrapper]

I luv ask the builder,especially the little catchy song that plays..tom rocks

[@askthebuilder]

I can hum it in my sleep. Be sure you subscribe to my FREE newsletter right here front and center: www.AsktheBuilder.com - Also, I now LIVE stream each M-F at 4 PM Eastern time at kzbin.info

[@askthebuilder]

You're welcome. I'm about to upload 400+ new videos. Hope you subscribed. Pass the good word around about this channel if you can.

[@calikid68]

When you stated that this product "will stop water vapor from coming in" where does it go?

[@samella35]

Thanks for posting. Informative.

[@askthebuilder]

When you have questions, always go to my AsktheBuilder website. It's the dot com one. I have a search engine there. I have an entire category about Vapor Barriers. Go read all my past columns about Vapor Barriers and Closed Cell Foam insulation. You should also sign up for my FREE newsletter once at my website. Thanks! BTW, the answer you're looking for is at my website.

[@rxonmymind8362]

Great tip. Thinking about building a cinder block home for hurricane/fire/earthquake reasons. I like the idea of insulated cinder block/rebar but don't necessarily like the looks of it on the interior of the home. Will this method of insulation work if used throughout the home in addition to drywall?

[@askthebuilder]

Watch my NEW live stream videos! Subscribe to get my FREE newsletter here: www.AsktheBuilder.com

[@SoSeventies]

Fantastic thank you!!!

[@askthebuilder]

stormennorm Todd and I are friends. He and I taped a number of videos at a job site where his company was building a home. I taped the video first and he held the camera for me. I then held the camera for him while he did his video. So who copied whom? You tell me. I started building homes when Todd was just starting grade school. Hope this clears up your confusion.

[@glinka57]

Sir I used fiberglass directly against the concrete with poly VB over the top. will this be an issue for vapor condensation. Any advice there? From now on I'll be using this rigid foam method. even if it costs a few hundred more. I love it!

[@multicriticalentodo]

How is the foam attached to the wall? Is it just mechanical with the furring wall or are there anchors, maybe glue? Very curious about that.

[@johnhenry9147]

I do believe it can be a good insulator, and can be a cheap alternative with good results, but several downsides can be it is flammable and low biodegradable rate. (takes a long time) If you want to fireproof the layer that could cost extra money you don't want to spend. If you considered another option such as ComfortBatt that is inorganic, non flammable, and resists mold and mildew it can be disposed of much easier after use and has more advantages to it. Although it's all personal preference

[@iphoneidiot1]

should there be plastic on the 2 x 4 walls acting as a vapor barrier?

[@pinrainbow6994]

Good info thanks I have a cold room under the concrete porch , but concrete poured over the plywood supported by 2x4’s , but it gets so condesation that I smell misty odour in summer and becomes icy in winter , Question : can I remove that wood from ceiling put this insulation or anything else to make best and avoid mold n mildew ? Or it’s structural that I cannot remove it at all ? Thanks in advance

[@askthebuilder]

Get unlimited FREE tips like this each week by subscribing to my newsletter at www.AsktheBuilder.com

[@rcb4554]

@AsktheBuilder ya...that's what I thought....so I could use it overhead between floor joists....would I need a vapor barrier and if so which side of the insulation...because I was told vapor barrier goes on the warm side but there will be 2 warm sides ???

[@yddeg2112]

Was faced or un-faced insulation added between the studs? Very important to know. Thanks!

[@herptyderp4927]

un-faced. for sure. I may be 8 years too late

[@greghicks8575]

I have a new home Built on a full finished basement Except for the mechanical room and the storage room underneath the master bedroom and master bathroom the master bathroom has a completely tiled floor and is cold all the time from November through February the subfloor above it is floor trusses with a lot of wiring and Internet and plumbing in these areas but I intend on putting at least R 19 in the floor trusses And a 2 inch foam on the exposed concrete to perimeter walls in the mechanical room will this help the cold master bathroom floor and cool bedroom floor above enough to make it cost worthy to do.. PS if I do this it will be done correctly. Thank you for your input..

[@askthebuilder]

Greg, far far too much to type. This requires one of my phone coaching calls: shop.askthebuilder.com/15-minute-phone-or-video-conversation-with-tim/

[@p4ddy100]

Should I use drylok on concrete block before I use the foam insulation?? Plus is roxul a better alternative to fiberglass?? Please help. Need second opinion

[@askthebuilder]

Paddy, I'd go to my www.AsktheBuilder.com website and READ all my columns about trench and linear french drains. You want to STOP water on the outside of a basement, not try to stop it with a thin coat of Drylock!

[@nyguitar83]

When you put fiberglass insulation in, would you use one with a backing or one without? My understanding is that if you use XPS you want none, but EPS you want the backing...any relevance to this?

[@askthebuilder]

I would install batts with no backing. You don't want batts to touch the concrete wall. You want an air space.

[@nyguitar83]

Awesome, I am considering the EPS just due to the cost. As it is I did a moisture test and no moisture problems atm anyway. Will probably do another when summer comes around and I have time to complete the project. Any real reason to avoid EPS? I figured EPS with batt gives me the insulation quality without the price of adding 3 inches of XPS. Thanks for the advice.

[@311mdub]

Why fiberglass insulation instead of a mineral type like Roxul Rockwool? Is there some specific benefit of fiberglass over others in basement settings?

[@askthebuilder]

Great question!!!! I answer it in my past *insulation* columns on my www.AsktheBuilder.com website. Please go there and *READ* all my past insulation columns.

[@rcb4554]

can u use the white insulation for basement walls ?

[@GmGarlo]

hey tim i live in ontario canada where the winters are cold;i am not sure where the insulation should go in my unvented crawlspace, do you put it on the walls or in between the joists or both ? always look forward to your videos!!!

[@askthebuilder]

You want the insulation to block the cold wherever it tries to invade. Think of your own skin. What would you cover up if it was - 30 C outdoors? Do the same with you home.

[@GmGarlo]

Ask the Builder thanks for the fast reply! i just did not want to buy insulation if it was not going to make a difference. some say for an unvented crawlspace you only need to insulate the walls, and your wasting your money if you insulate the joist. so your saying it does not hurt to insulate both and { cover the whole skin ha ha!! }

[@nkel6111]

mr builder: well put

[@gmguy156]

Do you use any type of adhesive to hold the foam to the wall?

[@errolgonsalves3778]

gmguy156 Use LePage PL 300 Foam Board adhesive sold at the big box stores. Basements are not completely square so I would check first before framing directly against the rigid foam.

[@askthebuilder]

Watch my NEW live stream videos! Subscribe to get my FREE newsletter here: www.AsktheBuilder.com

[@askthebuilder]

@glinka57 Better monitor it.

[@beathead45]

quick question, i have a unfinished basement that i am in the process of insulating. the walls where framed when i moved in, but my sewer pipe is not allowing me to have my walls tight to the concrete, (about 6 inches from my concrete to my wall). so really my question is how do i insulate it and not have to worry about a cold spot or about moisture? Thanks!

[@askthebuilder]

I'd ask this on my LIVE stream. Look: Be sure you subscribe to my FREE newsletter right here front and center: www.AsktheBuilder.com - Also, I now LIVE stream each M-F at 4 PM Eastern time at kzbin.info

[@vanderlin]

Any suggestions for insulating the sab. We are will be laying tubing for a radiant floor, but are looking for best practice for foam and slab insulations. We have sand as a first layer then were thinking 2 layers of foam insulation (4" total), then plastic for vapor then attach tubbing to with clips (we are using fiber concrete)

[@askthebuilder]

Todd, far too much to type. You may want to get me on the phone. shop.askthebuilder.com/15-minute-phone-or-video-conversation-with-tim/

[@nkel6111]

what 's the tape brand here?

[@askthebuilder]

Right here: amzn.to/2iyGgpd

[@eronhc]

I had a contractor waterproof my always leaking/flooding basement. He used a inside perimeter trough system into a sump pump drain. We have been water free over a year. The contractor recommended I put 6 mil plastic on the wall and tucked into the trough as a vapor barrier before finishing the basement. But watching your videos this seems wrong. Plastic or not?

[@askthebuilder]

Make sure it's a high-quality VB. I have several columns at my AsktheBuilder website, the dot com one, about cross-laminated vapor barriers. The vapor barriers sold at home centers is NOT always high quality.

[@nkel6111]

and how can one rate the v.p,'s ?

[@cdyoung976]

Your contractor did NOT waterproof anything. He installed a water management system in your basement. Waterproof would mean water stays out through other means and would not need to be removed.

[@askthebuilder]

@MRSketch09 Correct. Cut a tight butt joint.

[@kleahy106]

What’s the tape name?

[@askthebuilder]

Easy!!! Go here. Pick what floats your boat: amzn.to/3GyU1eL

[@Internationale1]

like it but rigid foam is very expensive in Canada.

[@Droobie420]

u get what u pay for

[@jackryder6732]

Instead of foam expensive option. Why not plastic sheet, then frame then fiberglass insulation

[@askthebuilder]

Because in this video, foam was the product of choice. You might want to record the video you speak of and show your method and how it compares pricewise. Once you upload your video, come back here and share your URL.

[@xs6819]

what if wall studs are alreay up?

[@askthebuilder]

Easy. Remove two studs to bend and slide in sheets.

[@codyq0987]

what if the water penetrate the concrete and accumulate between the concrete and the foam. Mold will grow there b/c there is no way the water can evaporate. Any suggestion?

[@askthebuilder]

Yes. Don't let water into your basement!!! Get my Linear French Drain DVD. I'm not allowed to put a link to it here in the comments. Sorry.

[@codyq0987]

Ask the Builder Do we need to install the Linear French Drain outside the house basement if we already have sump pump inside the basement?

[@askthebuilder]

codyq0987 Yes, I would. One of my Linear French Drains STOPS the water before it gets into the sump. You save electricity and if the power goes out, Mother Nature keeps your basement dry. Type : "linear french drain dvd" into the search engine at my AsktheBuilder dot com website.

[@unitymixer]

The Foam need to be firmly fix to the fondation, no air gap.

[@askthebuilder]

Tough to do. Have you seen how smooth foundation walls AREN'T? Get unlimited tips each week when you subscribe to my FREE newsletter at www.AsktheBuilder.com

[@lkw5699]

I would not use wood framing in a basement or fiberglass insulation. I prefer metal and rockwool

[@askthebuilder]

Both are acceptable.

[@vnnyavalos]

It is recommended not to use wood on basement framing.

[@askthebuilder]

Really? Who makes this recommendation? Paste in a URL from a credible source.

[@andrewdemchsin9854]

I scrubed the raw basement mason brick wall with a beach ,water and soap mixture and painted it with drylok . I noticed a light yelowish brown and brown marks that came thru paint . What is this and is it ok to leave that way. If not how do you get rid of it

[@askthebuilder]

Water in the paint dissolved the stuff on the walls. The stain on the wall then flows into the paint. Paint with white shellac.

[@andrewdemchsin9854]

Ask the Builder can you leave it like that without painting with shellac. I am building a basement wall with 2x4s and drywall

[@askthebuilder]

Andrew Demchsin You can do whatever you want. If you want to leave them, do so. If you want to get rid of them, follow my previous advice. Old AsktheBuilder.com saying: "I can't see the stains from my house."

[@richardmckrell4899]

need to glue it to the wall

[@askthebuilder]

Why?

[@richardmckrell4899]

@@askthebuilder A continuous beed around the perimeter of each foam piece minimizes airflow, air carries moisture, so no moisture condensates between the foam and concrete. In reality this is hard to achieve, however it should be attempted. Liquid nails or any foam board caulk is fine. Dabs or lines of chalk in the field of the foam is also desirable to hold the entire foam piece as tight to the concrete as possible.

[@01mustang05]

-“Damp proofing & waterproofing on the outside” of the poured concrete wall. -Closed cell rigid foam board stops water vapour from passing through either side of the foam on the inside of the poured concrete wall. OK.... So where does the water vapour go? What if vapour condenses? Where does water go? Is the damp proofing & water proofing on the outside going to last the life of the building? (What is the life of a building?) Why not just insulate the outside of the wall & be done???

[@lharchmage6908]

All the builders all go on about how wonderful various foam insulations are. 15 % of the population have to rip it out when it starts to break down. Which it does. The foams give off various poisonous chemicals such as formaldehyde .

[@askthebuilder]

Please offer up a URL to back up your claim, "....which it does." Show us a white paper where it concludes ALL foam breaks down.

[@shiblyahmed3720]

Did you just say 2" solid foam? I can bet that is 1" solid foam you are using!!

[@askthebuilder]

Yes I did. Bring as many 100-dollar bills as you can with you to central NH and I'll show you the job site. Would you want to start with 50 of them and then we can bet on something else? When will you be here? ;-)

[@shiblyahmed3720]

@@askthebuilder All right I take it back. My assumption was based on close visual study comparing the thickness of a nearby 2x4 and the foam you are using. By the way, neither do I pay in cash nor do I receive cash.

[@ronandy8681]

That is not 2 inch sir…

[@askthebuilder]

Hah! Were you hiding at the job site? I didn't see anyone there the day we taped this with a measuring tape! Clever!