Basic Rockclimbing with John Long (1987)

[@alanoranday4448]

(3:42) I definitely wasn’t expecting to see some original Jordan 1 Chicagos in this video . current value of those sneakers (2022)are @ 20,000$

[@mtadams2009]

I started climbing in 1975 and I took lessons from the AMC and they charged me a dollar a day. To practice catching a leader fall they had this steel I beam they called Charlie. They would make you catch Charlie simulating a 10 to 14 foot leader fall without using any belay device. Your waste would get rope burned. From there is was the two Royal Robbins books, basic and advanced climbing. This training took me to on so many awesome adventures. I wish we had climbing gyms back then, I am sure it would have helped with my fitness. This video is awesome. Thanks

[@NPC-fl3gq]

As an 80's kid there's just something ridiculously awesome about watching old late-70's/early-80's ultra-corny instructional videos 😂❤ Regards/respect from Downunder!!

[@williammorris6097]

I first learned to climb about 9 years before the release of this video. It was a game changer and the only instructional video at the time. I watched it over and over and took it to heart. Safety was stressed and later on when I became a guide some parts of this were instrumental in teach in my classes in the late 80s and early 90s.

[@FlyWhistle]

You guys are crazy man

[@seananderson5450]

I wish I had met you in the late 80’s msn

[@wehatemancs4393]

typical Manc 😂

[@wehatemancs4393]

​@@FlyWhistle Manc rat 🐀

[@wehatemancs4393]

​@@seananderson5450 Manc rat 🐁

[@abandonedbikeco]

"Photographed on location in Yosemite National Park." You can't fool me! That last climb is Flower of a High Rank @ Suicide in Idyllwild!

[@mls01981]

I was wondering the same once I saw that tree belay! That was one of my first climbs at Suicide Rock.

[@J0SHU4N0LL]

Thanks

[@connorcmedia]

“Flipper could jump thru that!” Broooooo! I’m 17 and so glad my dad exposed me to 80’s culture.

[@Johnny_Cash_Flow]

"No, no, no! You need a pair of needle-nose pliers to grab that!" If I had a dollar for every time I heard that from a woman... This is great; thanks, almost a decade later, for posting it!

[@JonPoulson]

Haha, Quack climbing techniques! John Long is a bad-ass. Stones masters for sure! Thanks John Long, for everything you did for this sport that we all love. Without people like you it wouldn’t be what it is today.

[@twobrokenlegs13]

Lmao, I was like, " did he just say quack...wait he did it again."

[@wehatemancs4393]

Manc rat 🐀

[@wehatemancs4393]

​@@twobrokenlegs13 Manc rat 🐁

[@dougbirkholz8330]

Watching this video took me back to a time when Fires were the only shoe to have

[@vooveks]

It was the 80s - people were yet to develop what we now know as 'embarrassing shorts shame'. This video tells their story...Some viewers may find certain scenes distressing.

[@plutoplatters]

+scubapig like we've advanced any !!!!

[@vooveks]

+plutoplatters Well, we've gone the other way. Now it's three-quarter length trouser-shorts, which are just as much of a fashion mistake.

[@Dharma_Bum]

the shorts were fine, what about the tights? we all wore them, i never went fluoro though...... i swear

[@bman6065]

@@Dharma_Bum I've considered tights purely to keep ticks out of my britches

[@kayakerodie]

I learned so much in what not to do in this video......wow....how mentalities and equipment have changed.

[@fizzlebug]

Can you give specific examples of mentalities and equipment that you consider dangerous? I mean; this guy is one of the original Stonemasters, he should know his stuff...

[@bman6065]

Seat belt belay devices didn't exist at the time of the filming. In a pinch all these outdated techniques work just fine. Although catching a fall on ones hip belay won't feel good, it still works.

[@squishy654]

This is so so awesome, thanks for posting this. I hope John is cool with it and lets it stay.

[@seananderson5450]

My friends introduced me to climbing with these exact techniques in 1989 in San Luis Obispo, California. Thanks Mike and Menzo!

[@mralex5425]

It's funny how little has actually changed. Equipment has gotten shinier, but really no major new inventions since this was made. Funny enough, bouldering pads and good shoes are probably the biggest improvements.

[@robertnewell4054]

SLCD (spring loaded camming devices) have gotten thinner, shoes more specified, and gri*gri’s (which originally was for solo climbing I believe) style belay devices, etc.... you’re right. More refined but on the same foundation. This was n 1987, and sticky rubber had only been out for 3-4 years...... and that arguably was the biggest game changer of all

[@seananderson5450]

That’s right.. nothing had really changed since Rays Friend. Just maybe some rigging techniques

[@georgesheffield1580]

Use of different belay devices , better equipment ( similar designs ).

[@NPC-fl3gq]

BuT WhaT AbOUt mY StiCK-CliP!?

[@bman6065]

They had a great sense of humor

[@MsKerryanne]

He certainly knows his stuff..

[@molimba]

this is actually hilarious, thanks for sharing

[@Lorax_Tribe]

Adding to the comments below, "a wall no man can climb in a day" has now been done free solo, in under 4 hours by Alex Honnold. Previously, he broke records with protection. Always recommended, as are helmets.

[@OutlawRippa]

Lorax Tribe it was supposed to be satire. Long was one of the guys that first did the it in one day.

[@robertnewell4054]

John “Largo” Long, Billy Westbay & Jim “The Bird” Bridwell did the first NIAD (Nose in A Day) in 1975

[@RudyUhlman]

Wow Technology and to some extent fashion has come a log way from when this was made.

[@freitag314]

Not to be a jerk, but I'm not sure this is true. Fashion is fashion, who cares? What are the great technological changes? I've been out of the loop for a while, maybe you can bring me up to speed.

[@samdeshler]

Biggest advancements now vs. then is in belay devices. But climbing shoes have changed a lot as well. They have become much more aggressively shaped. More difficult routes with very small foot chips require shoes with a sharper edge and often a more down-turned shape. The hi-top style shoe has also been fazed out for shoes below the ankle which allow much more flexibility of the ankle. Many shoes now have rubber on top of the toe-box for better toe hooks and a rigid, round, rubber heel for better heel hooks.

[@bonefishboards]

Fantastic. I tried to post 'Moving Over Stone' and got a KZbin strike. How did you get away with posting this video?

[@tristanbradford99]

when he just pulls the fixed pin out at 17:25 holy fuck bail

[@davidgreen4450]

23:00 mark...a big wall that no man can climb in one day, now done in a little over two hours... wow

[@freitag314]

David, you probably already know, Long was in on the first one-day ascent 41 years ago, just 17 years after the first ascent in 1958 which took 45 days over 18 months. The segment at 23 minutes is supposed to be comedy.

[@milkman_and_wife]

sub 2 now

[@MrLyckegard]

@@freitag314 Isn't the full movie just a comedy on rock climbing?

[@gregpphoto]

@@MrLyckegard Even better is The Art of Leading. Waaayyy more sketch comedy too.

[@danradu231]

It's like a Miami Vice episode. 80's detectives go undercover as rock-climbers in order to catch a drug lord.....

[@mls01981]

Anyone know what's the name of that left facing dihedral at 30:30? That looks so insane!

[@timpowell9001]

If I remember correctly, Bircheff-Williams on Middle Cathedral.

[@luciovidal1210]

Ótimo vídeo, uma forma muito didática e divertida de ensinar...Bravo Jonh Long.

[@wehatemancs4393]

Manc rat 🐁

[@paulmitchell5349]

Likin' the humorous touch.

[@petualangansikumis7035]

Good my vrend Rockclimbing long 👍👍

[@bman6065]

Those nikes would be priceless today

[@chewba2008]

Nice Jordan's!

[@jenexxifer]

thank you for sharing this!

[@kentlewan]

Are those Air Jordans? Coooooollll .....

[@melancholiaenshrinesalltriumph]

yeah dude is flexing

[@googlegilbertlevinmars322]

Were the nikes on purpose or ? Something magic?

[@misterkeyes2955]

he rockin the jordan 1's

[@johnhall8492]

"Bombproof!"

[@matscarensio1940]

+John Hall Him saying it irt an american death triangle made me laugh really hard.

[@fumanpoo4725]

I guess Osman missed the part about rope care?

[@MrYetidesigns]

If Jonny Bravo were a real life rock climber

[@INeedMoney-vq6ee]

LOL

[@243WW]

Nice

[@felipegarcia05189]

john long is jacked!

[@therealsome1]

23:01 "No one man can climb it in a day" Lynn Hill: *Laughs in woman*

[@danthewilliamson]

havent seen it, please share :)

[@somebodydoingthings]

my how some of the techniques have changed

[@stacky512a]

Flower of High Rank, 5.9

[@Dr4cKs______]

valla arnes wapo que se a montao el colega que tiempos aquellos hay si que tenias que echarle dos cojones al asunto jajajaja

[@MrLanoregreb]

Jordan1, nicest shoes ever.

[@Bobbleoff]

As some one relatively new to climbing some of them techniques look questionable. But I guess they worked

[@Dstrukt2k2]

lol

[@bman6065]

Um... They worked for decades

[@georgesheffield1580]

I saw this and thought LARGO is my age ,then saw the date .

[@Groeningathletics]

Wicked

[@dangerdave138]

Buy largos books, it's the same hysterical adventures

[@mellinghedd267]

"OLE FELIX TOOK A *300 FOOT FALL!*"

[@jackcraig2790]

26:38 Quack Climbing amen

[@havenoliduponmyhead]

love it. i don't think he can say crack climbing, calling it "qwack"

[@supersky79]

Boreal Fire, best climbing shoes ever!, made in spain.

[@Dharma_Bum]

Boreal Fires were my first climbing shoes back in the early nineties. comfy for long routes. shoes have changed a lot since then. love my bent like a banana Scarpa furias. very sticky.

[@supersky79]

yap sounds great!, boreal release a rubber called Zenith, that seems is one of the bests.

[@Dharma_Bum]

will check it out!

[@_ShaDynasty]

28:12 can we talk about these sneakers for a minute?

[@BenBrooke]

HILARIOUS

[@plutoplatters]

How did they exist without crippling cell phones ??????

[@johntuttle9544]

Nut Huggers were never more in style. :P

[@dotmoredots9370]

Bob weir approves of this message

[@ruddermayhem]

Hey ladies! haha

[@ruddermayhem]

I didn't convert my VHS tape soon enough and it's toast. I converted The Art of Leading in time, though. :)

[@osmanyenisen7082]

🏇🇹🇷💯

[@ZeroContentSF]

Put some pants on.

[@bumponlog]

damn people wore socks climbing back then lol wtf

[@rushthezeppelin]

I wear socks when climbing......

[@sapinva]

You needed socks, those Fires were unlined and would chew your bare feet up.

[@bman6065]

@@rushthezeppelin me too. Works better for me keeps the sweat from making my shoes slick on the inside.