They Changed Climbing Forever

Doug Robinson made one of the first climbing films of all time and he allowed us to share it for free for the first time on our channel. It's an amazing part of history and it's fun to hear his thoughts after the film. Thank you Doug!
See all of Doug Robinson's stuff at movingoverstone.com/
See our other popular interview with Doug • Doug Robinson - OG Yos...
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00:00:00 Hi, I'm Doug Robinson
00:00:56 Moving Over Stone
00:58:08 Behind the Scenes Interview

[@HowNOT2]

What questions do you have for Doug? He is reading the comments!

[@alefaria]

How does he feel about the more Parkour style of climbing?

[@mwilliams1445]

Doug, with gear and online trainings being so accessible, do you see newbies making mistakes or not taking long enough to learn before moving on to harder stuff (climbing in a gym to sport climbing to leading to trad)

[@cnghiem67]

I recently introduced my kids 18, 20 year old kids to this movie. Even though I am not a climber, we enjoyed it after visiting a rock climbing gym. The movie is a classic.

[@dougrobinson4221]

I'm blown away by the new Parkour-style dynamics. The moves of climbing keep evolving, and parkour-style is just the latest trend. I watch new comp videos to learn them. The upward lunges, all four limbs off the rock, are obvious clickbait. But I am drawn to the quick, often horizontal sequences that are only possible dynamically. You need to move through them quickly. It's the latest way that climbing imitates dance!@@alefaria

[@nicholasvanderkolk1541]

I don’t have a question but I just wanted to say I’m deeply grateful you made this available for all to watch easily. What a gift!

[@dannydevito6407]

came for the climbing, stayed for the soundtrack🔥

[@RC7718]

I just cannot believe how good that film was despite being so old. That was an extremely well constructed movie.

[@chumdm3]

The footage of Croft soloing at the end is the single most influential thing in my young life. And yes, I was the guy who went out and free soloed after watching Croft solo all those pitches. Fortunately it worked out ok for me. But, I followed Croft's advice! I love this video. So many awesome segments and the narration is instant nostalgia for me. Love to see this uploaded officially.

[@DaftFader]

That video is quintessential 80's docufilm style! "Rock, doo da doo doo doo da dooo, Granite, doo da doo da doo" xD

[@testboga5991]

Amazing how the old video already has all the basics bit none of the fluff

[@RuckusTheRuckus]

Doug you are a legend! Don't have any questions, just a greetings from Norway

[@terraflow__bryanburdo4547]

Warning: name dropping ahead😅 I got a chance to climb with Peter the Great in Leavenworth before he got famous. Still my all time hero of climbing. He has had more fun than all the rest of us put together👍 I climbed at Smith with Bobbi and Stefan about the time of this film, and belayed Lynn on her onsight ascent of "Churning In the Wake", the first 5.13 onsight by a woman. It was my first 5.13, after a.lot.of work. Great time capsule, im glad and lucky to be climbing better than ever decades later.

[@PhilosophicalPawn]

I walked away from my computer and KZbin decided to continue autoplaying videos. I come back to my computer as this movie just started and ended up just watching the entire thing. So cool to see how climbing has evolved and even how similar it was to now as well. Thanks for posting the video!

[@joshuabean9409]

No question but thank you!!

[@gruanger]

I don't climb, but I watched the whole thing. It is wonderful to see people live life.

[@libertine5606]

I wore out the VHS then bought the DVD. At the time all the videos were important. First was the Basic and Advanced Rockcraft. Then the Chouinard catalog. But it was yours and Long's videos where we could see what was being done. Camalots, Boreal Fires, and your videos change climbing for me.

[@garronfish8227]

I've watched this movie over a hundred times as a teenager it had a big impact on how I thought about climbing. Thanks so much!

[@joehopfield]

Doug 's calm climbing in vintage 80s Fire's make me very happy. "El Arte de Escalar"

[@fredflinstone985]

The videos with Doug are probably my favorite videos on the channel. I don’t have any questions for you, Doug, just wanna say you’re awesome and thank you for sharing your life with us, it’s truly an honor.

[@macmurfy2jka]

🎶I’m talkin’ ‘bout Doug!🎶

[@macmurfy2jka]

Grateful Dad! Ha!

[@dougrobinson4221]

Got to see Dead & Co's "last" show in July. Hopelessly addicted since the 60s.

[@walterwadlow9438]

Thanks!

[@LocalConArtist]

Yesssss more Douge!

[@DaftFader]

So cool that you dedicated this video to Dwane Jonson! xD

[@philipbentley9850]

?? Dwayne Johnson. ? And I do like the guy ??

[@DaftFader]

@@philipbentley9850 The video sais it's "Dedicated to the rock" at the start. 😂👍

[@testboga5991]

Legends!

[@jakejenni1]

Thanks for putting that on, I don’t think I would have ever seen it otherwise.

[@MakersTeleMark]

I grew up sewing my own runners and reading royal robbins books. Doug was a big leap forward. I hope in this age of quick low attention consumable "knowledge" that his focus on mentorship and personal relationships translates through all professions. Thanks for posting this.

[@tristin5723]

This is a fantastic video. I think I learned more about climbing in this hour video than I have anywhere else.

[@IceCreamMan1909]

Man…Thank you. All of you. This is a gem for the climbing community and it’s wonderful to know that it’s so easily available in this format. Please, do more of these. There’s so much wisdom in our sport and this is a great way to preserve and share that.

[@mr.timeless]

More, Doug Robinson? Yes, please! I love this old stuff...because I'm old stuff!

[@dougrobinson4221]

Ryan and I have a few ideas for short, How Not 2 videos. Whenever we actually get together to make some. Maybe I could post another less-old video, "Go Wild Outside Las Vegas." There's some climbing at Red Rocks, and the rest of it is enjoying running around the desert. I forget at the moment what Ryan called them, but we shot two vids, an hour plus half an hour, of telling stories about climbing history.

[@griffinakahori9242]

What an absolute gem

[@HotRodChris]

Awesome video Doug! It has an endless summer feel!

[@kavemanthewoodbutcher]

You're all nuts, and i love you for it! My hands and feet hurt just watching.

[@EvoRockFitnessIndyIndianapolis]

Hey Doug! I bought this VHS back in 1990 and watched it so much that it eventually wore out. Loved it then and love it now. Great job! THANK YOU!

[@spud_67]

thanks, father of clean climbing, Doug. this is my new video to make all my friends watch when they want to learn to climb

[@DevinH-64]

Doug's the King

[@gagetaylor7013]

Thank you so much Doug. Thank you HowKnot2 for putting this back out in the either for us rock junkies!!! 🙏🏼

[@calebllop]

As someone who lives in the Sierras, this makes me psyched!

[@rugward]

Thanks Doug for this amazing movie! You mentioned working with clients near the end. Any tips on dealing with fearful or difficult clients as a guide?

[@dougrobinson4221]

I recall hardly any difficult clients. Maybe a couple of surgeons. Seems to take a lot of ego to be one... Fearful, though -- oh yeah! Fear of heights is ALMOST universal. The very few clients without it were the ones who worried me the most. I found myself following around behind them spotting ruthlessly. Please see my response to "@FrostyBalls01 9 days ago" for some general background. What I did to talk to clients about fear of heights is to model it out of my own experience. Speak from your own experience, of course. Here's how I would say it: "I've climbed the face of Half Dome. But if I go to the summit, the only way I can look over the edge is to get down on my belly and put just my eyes over the edge. Usually with a solid foot jam behind me. That void has power. It sucks!" "Yet to start at the bottom of the wall, tie in and begin leading, clipping into pro, you build up your rational defense against the void. You know from deep experience that the rope will hold you. And the pro will anchor the rope. And your trusty belayer can easily stop any slip. It's a system. Proven to be safer than driving on the freeway. We trust it deeply." Another part of making our whole protection system feel reasonable to climbing students is to take enough time to talk about the rope. Where did it come from in climbing history? Now we have other uses for hemp (wink). Notice that the modern climbing rope is actually THE most high-tech gear we use. Way beyond, say, cams. It's strong, sure. You could hang a pickup truck from one. But the real high tech value of it is its stretch. The US Army researched parachute harnesses and found that forces needed to stay under 2000 pounds (explain that number's relationship to Kn's) or there would start to be injuries to kidneys and backs. Modern climbing ropes stretch so much they do keep ultimate forces below that threshold. Etc, etc.

[@tristanlasley8030]

Sweet recommendation, I just seen hownot2 and clicked now I have a whole movie to watch 🎉

[@roryglobalactivites4054]

One of the first instructional climbing videos I bought here in England. Remember it well

[@Kevin.L_]

Great flash back to my climbing in the 80's. Thanks for sharing the movie.

[@trailrunplanet]

Seeing this brought back wonderful memories from when I started during the 1980s. I first saw Moving Over Stone a couple of years after I started climbing. We made climbing slings by tying our own using tape knots - and climbing a pitch placing the tape knots of the slings in the crack as protection. Those were the days...

[@kingrodriguez2998]

world class film and direction

[@dirtyintel5668]

Thank you Doug.

[@snigwithasword1284]

Love every gag pulling "portable" 1980s electronics out, aged like fine wine 🤘😝 (not sarcasm)

[@burpsan]

Great film. I remember when it first came out, I picked it up and watched and re-watched. Great vibes. Maybe not comparable, but On The Rocks came out before this featuring John Gill, Tony Yaniro, etc. That was the first climbing film I saw and was inspired by. I had it on VHS of course.

[@robertsorbello7288]

Feels like yesterday. Man time flies!

[@MidLifeCrimper]

This was so awesome!! Thank you guys

[@astaglenda]

Love it all. Thanks for this video!

[@danielbrophy8829]

You guys are so awesome! Thank you!

[@mountainloaf]

Absolute legend, this is so cool!

[@JoachimMilan1]

This was fantastic, thanks for sharing it. Great personas and the passion shines through so clearly.

[@LockSm1th701]

Thanks for sharing. This is gold.

[@jonathanandrade176]

Such a cool video I love the history and interview at the end.

[@ffffff34th3r]

So good, its stands up amazingly well. Thank you!

[@brianland2944]

thank you. love this.

[@walterwadlow9438]

Thank you Doug and Ryan for posting!

[@Sicnus]

omg... this video changed my life. Loved it!

[@LonerOnTheField]

Great video!

[@ldcezar]

Greetings from Brazil. I forget how many time I saw this film back in the day. Thanks for bring this classic, this piece of art, back.

[@Mikey.M.V.P.1]

Hey doug what an epic video very informative & inspirational ❤

[@j.radford7109]

Awesome video! Thanks for making this available to anyone. Superb intro to rock climbing. Wish I had seen this in my fledgling climbing years.

[@matthewmoench5969]

Brilliant. Not often we get to see and appreciate some of the fountainhead of the sport we love. All the best Doug, thank you for your work and dedication to this sport.

[@Solocamper801]

Thanks Doug you guys are awesome moving over stone was literally the video that got me into climbing

[@I.am.Bananaman]

thank you for presenting "moving over stone" this was Gold!

[@Noahedwar]

This video is awesome! So much history that needs to be remembered. Now it's on the internet and it will never go away.

[@jamesskretta5391]

wow, Doug, what a real gift. thank you for making such a thoughtful and ahead-of-its-time film and sharing it with us all!

[@rockclimb3793]

I was glued to this video, and love the combination of climbing and filming challenges involved in making a high quality film at the time - that can never be reproduced. Doug, I’m left with few questions because, as your video points out, climbing is about the experience, and any questions will be learned on the rock. Learning on the rock is the way to go, and having fun is key. I just wish there were more ways to connect with the climbing legends that are still around. There are so many stories that I would love to hear about. These videos make it possible, and document those stories for future generations. While it would be amazing to meet Doug and other climbing legends in person, thats probably not feasible on a large scale. More content like this is much appreciated!!

[@tdpandya007]

THIS IS GOLD. 🙌 Thanks Doug & Ryan & Bobby for sharing this gem 💎

[@callum7492]

this is so awesome!

[@dravenstone8532]

I was going to put this on as background noise for chores but I can't stop watching

[@lizardman365]

Doug!!!! Thank you for everything you're an inspiration love seeing you appreciation for this realm as well and gaining some knowledge hope your well thanks again for being you

[@Shawn_Lai]

Ive never climbed but am an avid outdoorsman. Love the content. Watch it just because its amazing to see the feats you do and which were started by people like Doug. Its amazing to see him in that video and thinking how they got those shots with the technology available. Does Doug still do any climbing? I assume he is still involved with climbing via groups, etc. Regarding mentorship, I feel like that has been such a recurring theme in my life lately. A client of mine recently discussed the same thing during a lunch meeting. Having a mentor to not only teach you but to discuss and bounch ideas off of.. I wonder if there is anything climbing wise that Doug still desires or wants to achieve?

[@mac_]

Amazing film, Doug - thank you.

[@alexstarr1589]

Great video, Doug is awesome! No questions really but just wanted to say thanks for sharing! I have only dabbled in climbing but loved the video, it really well demonstrates a lot of techniques, with little fluff. The music and outfits were awesome, loved them.

[@ml242]

this is AWESOME!

[@stenqvistt]

Around 23:00 in the segment with Lynn, she's climbing with 2 ropes, any particular reason for that? Love the movie, awesome seeing the progress of harnesses and shoes.

[@alexrichard486]

In traversing/wandering climbs, using two half-ropes helps you protect against a large swing, you'll effectively fall between the two bolts on either side of you. Its more common in trad climbing than sport.

[@DevinH-64]

Reduce rope drag by using one rope on one side of the route and one on the other, and it better protects from swings on intermediate traverses

[@dougrobinson4221]

These guys said it. It's a good trick, very Euro.@@DevinH-64

[@konkelkent]

This is so awesome, what an interesting story too, what a legend. and at like 52:00 is just an amazing mindset to have and what its all about.

[@BurkeLCH]

love this!!

[@Andyjamesontheweb]

this is awesome!

[@BurchellAtTheWharf]

This is an incredibly useful ans informative video

[@gernotwill9106]

Pure Inspiration!❤

[@Oreion9811]

Great video, and super educational! Thank you for sharing this amazing bit of climbing history. Doug, you mentioned how so many of the new developments in climbing have really helped push the sport into the mainstream (such as climbing gyms, the Olympics, Alex Honnold, etc) and some of the old salts were hesitant of the sports growing popularity. Is there anything you’d say should especially be maintained and passed along from the older generations as more and more people become introduced to the sport?

[@v6climber]

Thank you, thank you, thank you! I bought the video and have watched it more times than I can count. I’ve now been climbing roughly 30 years and your video has had a huge influence on my life. Thank you!!

[@traviskinchen2265]

I still have my well worn VHS copy of this film. A few weeks on now, but Doug, if you should happen to catch this comment - thank you. Your film taught me climbing movement in a way that books and even my climbing mentors could not - seeing some of the best in the craft doing it was a revelation. I went on to guide for a while, and passed on that learning to many others. Teaching starts a cascade of knowledge forward into the future.

[@dougrobinson4221]

Thanks so much for your comment, and for teaching to pass it on!

[@tomasr64]

WE used to show this video at chico state climbing classes back in 1988 or so. What memories.

[@JoBianco]

I watched the whole video. It's great.

[@kevinburton7201]

What a great video that totally lives up to current times! Thanks so much for making it available for free for anyone to watch on KZbin.

[@metyu3730]

i've enjoyed watching this video, thank you for sharing it (:

[@WyomingMtnMan]

I'm trying to find Doug's article about mentorship, but can't find it on his website. Would it be possible to provide a link? I met Doug in 1975 when he was a guest instructor on Royal Robbins Rockcraft course. He inspired me to become a clean climbing advocate. Ran into him a few times over the years in the Winds, Yosemite, and Oklahoma when he was guiding and teaching rock climbing. Learned so much from him and Royal we didn't need a guide!

[@user-py6cv8ce5w]

How exotic the scenes are!~ I have been climbing in Seoul, South Korea. I have never seen that kind of videos before~

[@ikarosdream5971]

Legend!

[@angusmorrison1557]

I have this on VHS and this is how I learned how to climb. Thank you Doug!!! You changed my life

[@Krzychor987]

Such an amazing movie!

[@brentedwards2606]

Watching this made me feel like I was reading Freedom of the Hills for the first time! Wonderful, nostalgic, relevant

[@Jkilla2eh]

So cool

[@TheUncleRuckus]

Super interesting movie! 👍👍

[@snigwithasword1284]

What a treat

[@adamhunt873]

This is the best climbing doc I've seen in a long time, I wish i'd seen this as a kid- I probably would've started climbing a lot sooner

[@wenlambotomy6231]

Great video. The words and message still relevant today - and lycra needs a comeback 🤟

[@vincentcalauttijr.7393]

Awesome thanks for posting, first time seeing this movie. Doug did you make any more films?

[@dougrobinson4221]

I've done a couple of instructional ones with Ryan, and a couple of longer mostly history talks on this channel. I'm working on a feature-length documentary recently called Finding Flow.. It will be out in the next year, and there will be a sneak preview of the rough cut Nov. 10 at the AAC's Bishop Craggin Classic with the Director Lizzy Fowler.

[@alexeymalafeev6167]

Incredible to put this on the channel, thanks so much to Doug!

[@ArneLap]

Gold!