Basic STANDING SEAM Metal Roof | How To install.

[@MiloLagrange-s4l]

And now cue all the smarter guys that know it all but would never have the balls to put a video out there. You did great. Nice neat work.

[@MadRat70]

Real tinners don't cut their bread and butter by giving away all their trade secrets. He was right, there are a lot of ways to do that project. He demonstrated one but probably left off more things than he should have. Some gungho DIY guy will wreck his porch if he superficially followed this video. There is a lot of details a professional simply would focus on that were not covered. Those fine details keep your shop open.

[@russellsroofingknoxville]

My dude knows his stuff! You can tell when you’re cutting it! Good job bro! Love the video

[@briangagen8436]

Done shingles before but this is a first metal roof for me.... your video has been extremely helpful. Straight forward instruction. Thank You

[@plankroofing]

Glad to hear it! Thankyou! Any other roofing subjects you would like to know how to do?

[@jimcotner4622]

Thanks guys, It's nice to find DIY videos made as well as yours. I can't think of anything that would make it better. Thanks again.

[@nickg505]

Very nice! I've seen SO many vids on SS and they try to complicate tf out of it. Thanks for the step by step clear instructions/vid

[@jasondimartino]

What an amazing video fellas, thank you for sharing. Very well done!

[@TheJuliomguarquila]

I like the video you guys did an excellent job of showing and explaining.

[@2nickles647]

I liked your presentation. I just need more tools 🥰🥰

[@plankroofing]

Links in the description for some of the tools we use.

[@johnbruzzi4381]

Nice work guys, can you make a door to close the end on the overlapping panel at the drip edge

[@plankroofing]

We always bend a piece around to close the end of the rib. whether it’s a factory pre-cut that you just bend around, Or using a tin snips to make a “door” To cover the end of the rib.

[@johnbruzzi4381]

@@plankroofing I didn't see it in this video

[@plankroofing]

@@johnbruzzi4381 it’s at the 6:00 minute mark. Between 6 and 6:10 All he did was bend the tab around to close the end of the rib. Because it came pre notched from the manufacturer. If it’s not already notched you have to cut out a tab with your Tin snips to make a “door” I wish I had a video demonstrating this but I don’t.

[@johnbruzzi4381]

@@plankroofing no I know how to do just didn't catch it in the video, my bad

[@franzteichroeb6837]

I like the video you guys did an excellent job of showing and explaining was a great help

[@garcia5059]

Muy buen trabaj0 amigo

[@jims5656]

The rake trim on the panel end are not mechanically fastened. It’s a friction fit. For a small barn no issue, but you’d never do that for something that needs a wind uplift requirement

[@MadRat70]

He also only appears to have simply top screwed his rake, with zero cleat on the bottom side. That Rube Goldberg contraption he installed just looks difficult to make and appears to be an unsafe practice. I get the way he went for a hidden fastener finish profile, but two piece rake systems are much safer IMHO and also hide the fasteners. Metal roofing relies on either cleats or fasteners to hold its shape in a storm. or it can be mangled by airflow alone. I've seen 22 guage peel off in straightline winds from guys not using cleats. That IMHO is a potential blow off waiting to happen. The C-clip rake edge has a different finished look - perhaps less elegant - but it will never blow off. The J is a nice looking finish profile for panel rows for sure, but you need that rake to protect the J. Your cleat is a simple 90 edge without any kink out, but preferably with a hem for sliding purposes. You can nail both face and top of the rake cleat, and for not much more effort and have a bullet proof solution. You either use the panel's 90 degree upturn as cleat at the top of the rake, or you add a receiver metal to run your panels into. Either way, the C slides over panel/receiver and below the rake's cleat, locking the panel to the cleat with friction. There is no way to get uplift on that C-clip.

[@pacificnorthwest9416]

What is with the second story door leading out to the shed roof top?

[@b.b.5048]

Great video. Why do you bend the sides and fold the edges?

[@plankroofing]

With hemming the bottom it allows it to be hooked onto the drip edge, and helps hold the panel in place. Because there is no screws in the panel itself. And fold around the bottoms of the ribs makes a nice cleaner look I think. And it kinda closes the hole that would other wise be exposed.

[@propertyrightsmatter8156]

Curious where that second floor door leads to, or maybe it's being removed?

[@fungihntr]

Excellent video! Thank you. I am curious to know how the last panel was fastened to the roof.

[@mikemillett8220]

How is the last panel attached to the roof?

[@plankroofing]

We usually put a screw or two up at the top, usually it can go under the ridge cap.

[@MadRat70]

@@plankroofing Wait, how do you pass code? You have a whole side depending on a J channel to keep it in place by a widely space pair of screws?? You should be going into reciever metal with an inch of coverage and zero gap at a minimum. That's simply not safe the way you described.

[@kmanfree112]

great job !

[@madman9970]

Why is there a doorway going to a sloped roof?

[@christianyanez5382]

That tyoe of metal needs to be added some extra attention when fastening the clips otherwise the exposed marks will neglect the warranty from both material and labor. Inspectors pay much attention to those "minor" details.

[@ojibberwe7079]

Pretty low slope roof to be using metal, and a 1" lap on drip is a little short as well. With the amount of snow up there, overboard is a good practice.

[@samvarios610]

Hey quick question what’s the rake trim name

[@plankroofing]

@@samvarios610 we just called it standing seam rake. This is about the only company I know of that makes them this way. Royal oak metal sales in Michigan. But there are some metal suppliers who will make something like this custom.

[@2trntbls]

Thank you

[@prinzofgotham]

What kind of siding is on this house?

[@calebplank1643]

Metal Board and batten 10”

[@Diamante956]

where do i buy the bending machine

[@plankroofing]

Which one? Are you taking about the edge roller for bending up the finisher piece? Or the 18” break for hemming the bottoms? I put links to both of them in the description. I believe we got the edge roller off of Amazon.

[@lanslyd]

What brand is this roofing material? I can't find that style of rake trim piece anywhere.

[@plankroofing]

Yes it’s a unique one, you’d have to have it custom made at a metal shop that does custom trims. It’s basically a large “F” channel built into a rake trim. Endwall, sidewall, and pitch change trims are all made with a 1” j channel, 2” deep built into it.

[@stoletu]

why no separation between bare wood and coated metal?

[@MadRat70]

There is an air gap over an underlayment.

[@ericamdahl3274]

You can get Malco stuff from Acme tools if you’re in Midwest otherwise most of your local HVAC supply houses will carry them.

[@randallfelter9470]

Nice job. Great info. Thanks!

[@Btu555]

I see other installers use purlins under the metal roof for condensation, is that necessary?

[@MadRat70]

He used peel and stick, so no. The panels actually have a small air gap over your underlayment. Sun will dry your underlayment out quickly. Purlins, though helpful in some specific schemes, will perform no better. Metal roofing, like any other depends on the underlayment to waterproof. His underlaymenr has a durable skin, so its decent stuff for this job. Do not ever skimp on underlayment or you will be sorry.

[@EI_Tony]

Any videos on how to install metal panels with 2inch foam in between sheets .... They're 4x8 with ridges about 10inches apart.... First time doing this type of metal roof I'm just trying to see what I can put on the top, side, and bottom edges.... Boss bought these looks like they were sawed off an older roof so the foam in between sheets have no slope .... Any advice or ideas would be appreciated thank you 🤘🏼

[@plankroofing]

I’ve seen similar panels before. And I’ve installed a few myself. If it’s the same stuff I’m thinking of that is, You have to use long, self tapping screws. With the paint and rubber washers for metal roofing. I would put it on 2x4’s every 4’ or so. Is the foam glued in between two sheets of metal?

[@EI_Tony]

@@plankroofing yes the foam is glued in between sheets, I ended up cutting about 6 inches of foam from one sheet and sliding another sheet in between to have a watertight seal, the only thing I'm worried about is the 4 inch pitch it has, I feel like it's not enough of a slope ..

[@MadRat70]

@@EI_Tony Your have to fasten to Structural insulated panels (SIPs) depending on what they recommend. Some SIP specs will contradict your panel manufacturers and building codes so your mileage may vary. Always build to specs.

[@leovargas7045]

very professional. Nice work.

[@edlacapra1690]

What gauge is this? Looks thin

[@plankroofing]

It’s 26 gauge.

[@ariso]

Underlayment should probably be beneath the drip edge then seam tape where the underlayment and drip edge meet

[@plankroofing]

That doesn’t make sense to me, If water comes down on top of the underlayment in that case it would run under the drip edge right?

[@dt6750]

I don’t know if that was good because if there is a leek it would run down, get under the drip edge and destroy the facia. The way these guy did made more sense to me.

[@jesusborrego3270]

Probably😂

[@williamfp3]

What company can I buy the Standing Seam Metal for my roof?

[@plankroofing]

What state and are do you live in?

[@mikesmith8914]

good work

[@vanoknt]

why no underlayment on 2*6? are you in Arizona? correction, why no underlayment under trims? they would still have condensations, unless its a very dry state.

[@plankroofing]

This one is in Michigan. We usually install trim first. But it usually is on top of the underlayment. But you’re right. It should go on top. I didn’t think about it, maybe because it’s just an open air porch roof.

[@DGill48]

Looking at the background....is this in Maine? Or, some other part of New England?

[@plankroofing]

Northwestern Michigan, This home is actually on Airbnb now, In a small town called brethren Michigan.

[@DGill48]

@@plankroofing OK, similar vegitation, cool, water, and an occasional Moose.

[@marcocarrillo9797]

She’s a beauty

[@spacemonkey2915]

Its like watching HGTV. You dont show any of the actual work, just the before & after.

[@MadRat70]

Pencil is not an idea marking tool. From the sound its clear the material is carbon steel, so its only going to be accelerating rust a bit. If you used pencil on aluminum I'd be knocking your block off. You also might think about using touch up paint on the inside of your rake, to hide the primer color that shows. And you should have told people how you panned the top of each panel to prevent water blowing in under the wall flashings. Without something to return wind-driven water that is a terribly exposed leak waiting to happen.

[@barrywalsh7815]

Would have been nice to actually see the snapping together and fastening of the panels instead of time lapsing it from twenty feet away.

[@plankroofing]

Yes it would have. I’m sorry, you are right. I am going in my video skills, thanks for pointing that out.