Battery Cables: How To Correctly Make A Crimp Terminal End

How to properly terminate large-gauge wire so it will stand up to the marine environment. Also shows the different types of lugs and explains why you might want to use one type over the other.
I show how to put a power lug on 1/0 size cable as part of Idle Queen's ongoing refit. Don't be tempted to just mash the lugs with a vise or hammer if you want a long-lasting connection that you can depend on!
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SetForSea blog: www.setforsea.com
Your questions and comments are welcome and encouraged!
One source for an FTZ crimp tool like the one used in the video (I have no affiliation with this source)- shop.sailboatow...
Music for the closing credits: "Maybe This Time" by JR Tundra

[@NomadicGearhead]

Dude. This was seriously the best battery cable crimp guide I've seen! Wish I'd watched this before this. A+ dude this needs more views.

[@Setforsea]

Thanks so much! I had not planned to make a technique video like this, but had seen too much misinformation out there... Glad you found it wherever it's buried here on KZbin. :)

[@Fredness2300]

Finally! A decent video showing the proper technique! Great job. Any reason you chose these crimpers over a compact hydraulic type?

[@Setforsea]

Thanks for your comment! The biggest reason that I picked the FTZ crimpers was because they are made by the same company that makes the terminals I use and I trust that the dies are properly calibrated for those connectors. This tool has long been used by some other professionals whom I respect, which also influenced my decision. If there is space to use it, this is a very good tool for the job. Compact hydraulic crimpers could fit in places where this tool doesn't, but if I have room to work, this tool is fast (great when making dozens of terminations!) and forms the connection properly. I have since rewired other boats with this tool as well, and am still happy with my decision. --Barry

[@amuaiz]

Why do i keep clicking on wire crimping videos on youtube?

[@kellonpitts2650]

Great job on your well informative video. Thanks

[@fordguyaj5581]

You should make a video about if those lowes pruning shears are able to cut your fingernails

[@Setforsea]

Haha... Probably need longer fingernails than mine!

[@user-pr7gi1qo7u]

So you don’t always have to solder ?

[@WindinyourSails]

Excellent tutorial on this subject. Many thanks.

[@Setforsea]

Thank you!

[@markpotter2485]

What do you recommend if we dont have a crimping tool?

[@Setforsea]

If you don’t have a tool, can’t borrow one, and need to make a battery cable, I recommend just ordering custom made cables from somewhere like Genuinedealz.com (no affiliation). They have good prices on cable, and the custom cable cost is almost nothing. You can specify cable gage, length to the inch, lugs, even heat shrink color. Without a proper tool there is no way to reliably crimp a lug to a standard that will remain safe under the loads the wire is capable of.

[@captlarry-3525]

Do not place so much faith in the "water tightness" of any such connection that you allow them to be submerged except in an emergency.. doing so will create an emergency that will sink you.

[@Setforsea]

Absolutely! One should do everything possible to keep all the wiring dry. Electricity and water don't play nicely together... One thing I would add to the video is that I would put a longer piece of heat shrink over the connection if it were going somewhere that it ever might get wet. Thanks for taking the time to comment!

[@roncooke2188]

Perfect very interesting thank you

[@alebeda]

Great job and a good video, except you’ve cut the heat shrink tube too short, you want to have at least a 2 inch piece of heat shrink tube.

[@Setforsea]

Yes, you are right! That piece of heat shrink should have been longer, and for this size wire, 2 inches would have been about right. Thanks for highlighting this.

[@SailBeforeSunset]

Great info.

[@Setforsea]

+Sail Before Sunset Thanks for watching!

[@bert1913]

um......um.......um

[@AlxJrz401]

I agree with the rest of the comments, fantastic video. Thank you!

[@Setforsea]

Hi Alex- Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. It's great to hear that the video was useful!

[@owenjennings8575]

Very well done. Thanks for sharing.

[@Setforsea]

Thanks, Owen!

[@markjennings2315]

Well done. There are so many wrong how to's on google I finally found a knowledgeable one!!

[@Setforsea]

Thanks for the positive feedback, Mark!

[@seminolerick6845]

Yea... what scares me is too many learning the wrong/ incorrect ways. I got trashed , following all the ‘experts’ saying to adhere my solar flex panel, to roof of my teardrop... oops... it is losing efficiency, as no underneath cooling escape for panel getting warm... I would destroy the panel if I tried to get it off to correct... Thanks ‘experts’ ! Ya burned me good !

[@MarkJones-no2zf]

Nice crimp but the size of the crimping tool and you are wearing flip flops not good if you drop tool on toes

[@gregcoleman9959]

Good info. Thanks

[@Setforsea]

I appreciate the feedback, Greg. Thanks!

[@louiemares1610]

I bought a set of copper lugs for 1/0 wire because I bought a cable that was 1 / 0 wire but when I remove the rubber the wire got smaller so the lug was way too big I'm very confused on how they measure the lugs I can't seem to find one that fits I know that they have one that's a quarter and one that's 3/8 if that's the hole in the front where it's cruise down

[@Setforsea]

Hi Louie- It sounds like you may have ended up with a mis-match between the two standards used to measure wire sizes. The two most common standards are AWG (American Wire Gauge), and SAE (Society of Automotive Engineering). Your wire should be marked with one of the two standards somewhere near where the gauge is marked. A problem can arise between the two standards because SAE wires run between 5 and 12% smaller than AWG for a given gauge. Most lugs that I use come from Ancor or FTZ and are a good fit on AWG wire. I have come across no-name lugs in random stores that felt loose on AWG sized wire, but I have used them in a pinch. With a good crimp, they still provided a reliable connection. I make sure to give a good pull-test on any crimp before putting it into service. If you have a spare lug, you can try a test--it may crimp down okay. You are correct that the other measurement on your lug is the hole size. So, a 1/0, 3/8" lug is sized for 1/0 wire and has a 3/8" hole. I hope this helps. Good luck with your project!

[@anthonymarino4260]

Great vid

[@Setforsea]

Thanks!

[@kumaquattro]

setforsea: Outstanding video. I'll be using same set up, only I'll be use a hydraulic crimper (purchased from eBay $25) and will pop for cable cutters.

[@Setforsea]

Thanks! Good luck with your project!

[@mikelynch1229]

So what happened to your journey? I know you were working but have the plans changed?

[@Setforsea]

Still saving up to continue the voyage. As far as any plans I have, they are written in sand. Hoping to be sailing this summer, though...

[@1234faded]

Nice. Thanks for sharing.

[@Setforsea]

Thank you!

[@jimrussell1246]

I agree that this is top notch work. My only question is, why such a short piece of heat shrink? I like to use a piece 1/2" to 3/4" longer to act a little extra strain relief. But seriously other than that, this is the best crimp video out here. Appreciate the vids.

[@Setforsea]

You're 100% correct about the length of that heat shrink! I don't remember now why that piece was so short, but it should have been at least another 3/4" longer. Fortunately, that connection is very easy to reach and I'll probably slap a longer piece of heat shrink on there one of these days. Thanks for your kind words!

[@jimrussell1246]

@@Setforsea If you're like me, one of these days means when and if it lets you down! lol

[@Setforsea]

@@jimrussell1246 Yes, I know that problem all too well... haha

[@jimdavidson5208]

You spent hundreds on the proper crimper. Then you went cheap azz on pruning shears LOL. Can't get the real cable cutters?

[@Setforsea]

Good quality cable cutters are a great choice as well. The important thing is to get a clean cut on the end of the wire. I usually reach for those particular shears because they produce a very clean cut, and have a spring opener so I can use them with one hand. The compound lever mechanism makes cutting wire up to 2/0 easy. They'll work on 4/0 in a pinch, but if I had to do more than a cut or two I'd reach for the large cable cutters instead.

[@jimdavidson5208]

Forgot, where's the solder at? You used premium wire and crap connectors (not copper). Crimping soft copper wire in a boat or 4x4 vehicle especially, is not advised. That same wire, crimped THEN soldered to a copper connector, and your proper heat shrink is the ticket.

[@Setforsea]

Hi jim davidson- The lugs used in this video are different from ones designed for soldering. If these lugs are crimped correctly, the joint is cold formed into a solid mass. The crimped joints are vapor and watertight and have a resistance equal to or less than that of the wire. Solder, if used, will not flow into the joint, and also introduces the possibility of creating a hard spot which can lead to work-hardening and failure of the wire if subjected to flexing or vibration. The connectors used in this video are made of tinned copper, which is why they look silver. The tin coating is there to prevent oxidation of the copper lug, ensuring that the connection has the lowest resistance possible.

[@jimdavidson5208]

Right, tin is not a good conductor of electricity. You know, like copper? Electrons travel on the outer surface of the wire/conductor. Not through the inside of a wire strand.

[@Setforsea]

You bring up a good point about the conductivity of tin--tin is not as electrically conductive as copper. However, it is much better than corroded copper, and is the standard plating for corrosion protection of copper conductors in the marine industry (this video shows the assembly of cables that will be used on a boat, and is aimed at that audience). Bare copper is excellent electrically, but is much more vulnerable to corrosion than the connectors used in this video, which leads to a much shorter service life in the marine environment. As far as the conductivity of the strands of the conductors goes, these cables are intended for DC use. DC current uses the full cross-section of a wire. The phenomenon you are referring to is known as "skin effect", and its effects are dependent on the frequency of A/C current in a conductor. Skin effect losses are negligible even on normal domestic A/C wiring (50-60 Hz) until the conductor size is much larger than the ones I am dealing with here.

[@Spridle60]

The "power lugs" that setforsea used in this video are tin plated copper lugs, and are significantly thicker copper than the standard grade that was also shown at the beginning of the video. These type of lugs are far superior for battery loads because they wont introduce heat into the battery terminal if crimped properly, and they were crimped correctly. These lugs are the premium grade for battery use.

[@Spridle60]

DC uses the entire conductor, not the outside.