How to Make Battery Cables the Right Way and the Easy Way

In this video I show two methods for how I crimp ring terminals onto heavy gauge cable. There are countless types and styles of terminals - I use copper ring terminals here.
Please see my Cable Sizing video where I describe how to choose the proper gauge of wire.
• How to Select and Purc...

[@chesshooligan1282]

Proper battery contact is extremely important. Quite a while ago I had electric problems with my car that no mechanic could figure out. One of those mechanics was a bloke that went from garage to garage and only did electrics. According to the garage owner, he was "a specialist." Eventually I took the car to the official dealer, who simply cut the cable ends, made a new connection, connected the cables to the battery, and covered the terminals with grease. After that, the car finally started properly and never gave me any problems again. The problem had been caused by the terminals clamps corroding slightly after leaving the battery disconnected for a couple of months. A good scrub with sandpaper probably would have done the job. A couple of decades later, I had a similar problem with my motorbike. Took it to a mechanic, who put in a new battery (identical to the brand-new battery I had purchased and installed two days before) and a new starter motor. After a couple of days, the problem came back. I finally figured out the problem was with the connection again and fixed it myself. Between the two incidents, it all came to three batteries, one starter motor, and numerous visits to clueless mechanics -- all for poor crimp jobs or a bit of corrosion on the battery terminals. I can't remember what the cost was the first time, but the second time I paid £400 on a £1,000 bike to have unnecessary work done on it that didn't fix the problem. All the mechanics except one were clueless, including the "specialist." Remember, kids, if you have electric problems, check the battery terminals first.

[@oby-1607]

Remember kids, just because they say they are a mechanic doesn't mean they are any good at it. Just like people, they come in all types and abilities.

[@joekool5005]

I've seen this a thousand times and it would be the most common form of misdiagnosis in the industry. It comes down to laziness/ incompetence/dishonesty. It's usually the first two. I've rediagnosed so many battery and starting issues for clients usually taking less than one minute with a multimeter and carrying out a voltage drop test and then a charge test. Sooo many are actually bad connections... It's beyond belief!

[@helpontheway]

Yep. Tell him

[@MaquinasDePalomitas]

I had a cadillac back in 99 that had all sorts of issues at random, including engine misfires, bucking and stalling. When it got very bad I got under and all that hell that'd been going on for months was just the negative cable being loose at the starter.

[@rossevans1774]

@@oby-1607 Agreed, there are 'qualified' mechanics that have no interest in doing a professional job the right way that lasts for say the next 10 years.

[@2011k1500]

To start with, I wouldn't recommend relying on solder on a terminal that will carry heavy current. A proper crimp is a must. Use a tool designed for the terminal. If you are worried about oxidation, use an anti-oxidant compound. The other problem with soldering a cable that needs to flex, is it will cause the cable to break. Heat shrink has it's place but is not usually necessary on a battery cable. There are other ways to protect from shorts and cosmetics is not a huge deal unless you have a show car.

[@geekthesteve6215]

Agree with the comment on not relying on solder, heavy current is very capable of heating the connection to the point of liquifying the solder again and then your solder meant to help the mechanical/electrical integrity will become a lubricant in the connection possibly leading to catastrophic failure.

[@carlbeaver7112]

Not only that but solder is actually a poor conductor. You're not doing yourself one bit of good by soldering a battery cable into a terminal. Just about as half-a**ed as using a vise to crimp a terminal.

[@SC-sz9ms]

@@geekthesteve6215 wow, very good point

[@NoMoreBsPlease]

​@@carlbeaver7112That's just WRONG! A soldered crimped wire is going to have BETTER conductivity and a lower resistance! Solder is a bad conductor? Really? Which kind? Compared to what? Sorry, but you're just wrong!

[@paparoysworkshop]

The downside of soldering, is the solder will also flow up the wire causing the end to be very stiff. For this reason where flexibility is needed at the terminal, I only crimp the end using proper crimping tools. I then place some dielectric grease on any exposed wire before installing heat shrink tubing. Good quality heat shrink keeps contaminants out so corrosion does not easily take hold. Lastly, if using for a battery terminal the entire terminal (after installation) should be coated with dielectric grease and a terminal cap used. If you don't have a crimping tool then use a dull centering punch to dimple the terminal. This is far better than a flat punch as shown in the video.

[@vidcruizer]

Dielectric grease and shrink tubing is a beautiful thing.

[@alanbrown397]

+100 Crimping - done properly - is _much_ stronger than soldering, lasts longer (Speaking from experience. This is why telcos moved to crimps 40+ years ago) and offers lower electrical resistance. If you want something to last forever, crimp it.

[@freekdelaangeblokkeerd8606]

Roy Riederer Dielectric grease? *Show of!*

[@Milkmans_Son]

Then why solder anything?

[@captlarry-3525]

Roy.. you are right about soldering done wrong. Letting solder wick up the wire is All Wrong.It can be done right.. by tinning the wire first, using an iron not a torch, and with finesse and experience. tin, crimp, solder, heat shrink. done.

[@keithnoneya]

Love everything except the solder and flux. I have been professionally trained and have worked on electrical cables and repaired electronics for a living for over 37 years. The flux is corrosive and some solder can also have some flux in it, so I would not use it. What happens is the flux becomes a liquid acid, when heated, to clean the oxidation and contaminates off the wire and terminal. When it's in it's liquid state some of the acid flows down into the battery cable and up under the cable jacket. Through normal temperature changes the cable absorbs moisture and reacts with the Flux acid and starts to eat and corrode the copper cable. Over time the cable becomes a big resistor and things like batteries and starters begin to over heat and will be damaged. The solder may be a good idea if the cable is used in a non-vibration application, but is not needed. If it's used in an automotive application it's not a good idea, because the cable strands are not free to move flex slightly. When they're held without the ability to flex slightly they start to break, much like bending a coat hanger back and forth. So just crimp them. Smashing them in the vise is ok for a temporary solution but for a permanent one, use a couple of nails across the face of the terminal it will work better. Thanks for the entertainment. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith

[@seanmanwill2002]

@Keith Noneya, thank you very much! I was going to make up some battery cables next month. I was going to use welding lead and soldered connections. I will now forget about the solder, and crimp them instead. 👍🖐️

[@rickigunter1960]

Can I use any flux at all when soldering a battery cable wire? Surely there is one type that I can use?

[@jsswizard]

@@rickigunter1960 Use a no-clean flux or a no-clean solder containing this flux. It is often used for sensitive electronics (such as tactical systems) that are required to function after years in storage. The residue left behind is non-corosive.

[@MatthewBerginGarage]

@@rickigunter1960 You need to use a rosin flux like the author did it is water soluble and non-acidic. It is better to 1/4 fill the connector with solder and heat it until the solder is liquid, then push the cable into the hot solder any excess will overflow the connector. I buy my battery cable ends with the solder already in the connector at my local tractor supply. Doing it this way reduces the wicking of the solder up the cable.

[@haydenwatson7987]

I recently found out that my local Ace Hardware store has a proper hydraulic crimper with the proper dies to make all of the heavier gage connections. Easy and inexpensive. They let me make my own and only charge for the materials used.

[@Captleemo]

You might re-title your video how to make battery cables the easy way because it is certainly not the right way. You need a proper crimping tool to do it right so you are actually compressing the lug, not just flattening with a bench vice.

[@Donaldtrummp]

@Chris the vice grip & the solder was a lil too much but i mean if you dont got the crimper, hit it with the vice then hammer down with a flat tool to press it should be okay right? thats kinda what a crimping tool is, a flat tool that presses down with force I can't defend him on the no heat shrink comment though if you do it with a press, chisel h & hammer def use heat shrink lol

[@petesmith9472]

He does say you should use a crimper but he doesn’t want to buy one

[@jaydonweston1734]

If you're soldering it then the fact he didn't crimp isn't much to worry about

[@epoxy1710]

Maybe not right, but I have seen this work for 20 years.

[@ricko3k]

Soldering will give the best conductivity.

[@alexhaws2377]

Regarding heat shrink; you can get clear, adhesive lined, highly abrasion resistant shrink that will provide strain relief and of course, prevent moisture ingress.

[@laptopdragon]

I was thinking this b/c I have translucent heatshrink too. Although I rarely use it. post crimp, use dielectric grease, and heat shrink.

[@michaelmixon2479]

Either method I would like too see some shrink tubing to cover any exposed wires. Good job!

[@sptrader6316]

Heat shrink helps provide strain relief and avoids contact shorts with other metal objects.

[@keithnoneya]

I've worked with electrical cables for years now. Nice job, BUT it would be much better if you do these three things: 1. Clean the flux off with alcohol/solvent or it WILL Corrode. 2. Apply a liberal amount of non-acidic RTV to the joint, hint if it smells like vinegar you have the wrong stuff. 3. before the RTV dries cover it with heat shrink and Shrink it. After you heat shrink it and it oozes out, wipe the excess off and let it cure. This will humidically and acidically seal it so that it will NOT corrode. Best Wishes n Blessings Keith

[@ralphhollander1454]

Keith Noneya nnn

[@captlarry-3525]

rosin core will not cause corrosion.. rosin flux wont.acid flux is for Plumbing ONLY.. and does cause corrosion.

[@paulmoffat9306]

If you use adhesive lined heat shrink, you will not need the RTV.

[@mtsilvagt]

Paul Moffat R U related to mike moffit ,the guy that called jerry "a big phoney "??

[@j5892000]

i find it interesting that he did state the flux is acidic and will corrode the copper if not burned off then he stuffs the copper wire dipped in flux into the terminal with out the flux being burned off...

[@wadehicks9270]

Hello Sir, while I'm sure you have good intentions to help folks. However it's a proven fact that a hydraulic crimping tool will secure that copper end so strong there's no way possible to remove it. Soldering is always a good thing but to get a super tight connection you really will want it to be done with the proper tool 😃

[@hymanlipschitzmd6101]

T & B makes a super crimper, the TBM14 that can be wedged into one of those adjustable saw horses, and the pump has a good little remote control so you can pay attention to the crimp. Plus, if the crimp's right the dies will leave a number.

[@paulstaf]

To save money on expensive fittings, I have used copper tubing/pipe from hardware store, or reclaimed from job sites. Cut it to length, flatten one end and drill a hole through it and you have a low cost connector.

[@Sparky95]

A low cost, low performance, and unreliable connector.

[@dandesouto6076]

Not bad idea bro

[@jimmieroan9881]

having been around automobiles and working on them and taking various courses over the years, along with having my own garage at one time, working for a huge company taking care of their fleet of cars, and building and racing dirt late models, i can tell your one thing for sure, the people commenting on here telling you this is the wrong way to put a terminal on a cable are dead on. if you have any doubts at all just look at factory ends, they are crimped. what he is doing will work, and so will the cheap little bolt on ends, or just about anything that will make a connection, but there is a right way to do it. this isn't it, again if in doubt and you don't want to accept looking at factory ends, find your local electrical shop and ask them. and my experience goes way back to the early 50s, and yes i am really old.

[@firehawk6188]

You're right. A proper crimp is as good as a weld as far as conductivity goes. Take a terminal that has a proper crimp and cut it in half to look at a section. This video title is very misleading. A cheap $45 dollar hand held hydraulic hex crimper will make very nice and proper crimps every time.

[@gravelydon7072]

And C H, most of those tools come with more than one size die. In the case of the HF unit, it comes with size #14 up to size #0. And you can get them for anywhere from 20 to 25% off with a coupon.

[@robby844]

jimmie Roan all those cheap bolt on piece of garbage are for is to het you off the highway or off a trail to a place you can install the proper cable. Period. End of story.

[@jimmieroan9881]

@@robby844 i agree, i guess. not sure of what you are talking about as far as cheap bolt on garbage, i was commenting on how wrong this video is about making cables. ive never seen a factory cable that wasn't crimped, my short time in the military on aircraft all the cable ends were crimped. ive seen the crimped ends opened up to show their is no air gaps in between the wire strands with a good crimp, which would cause corrosion.

[@robby844]

@@jimmieroan9881 I was talking about those cheap ends with the 2 bolts with the metal strap or the ones where you insert the stripped wire and tighten the screw down. Ive seen both styles get hot and melt

[@nightstringers]

if the heat shrink hides imperfections then you may want to use it on yours

[@happysawfish]

That's brutal . . Thought for the day: what constitutes 'perfection' here? Gotcha!!

[@lapdog1479]

All the heat shrink in the world wouldn't disguise this abortion.

[@cekpi7]

You should always use heat shrink, not just when you do bad job.

[@mariusgreeff3143]

I agree. I dont even want a cable that looks like that for free. For someone that makes cables and have not got the correct tool (a crimping tool), says a lot.

[@Rodeo32145]

Saving money and it will work. That’s what he’s teaching. Get over it boys.

[@dockspa]

Shrink wrap is to help keep the elements out which cause corrosion.

[@joeys5429]

and to keep it intact

[@james10739]

With some dielectric grease in between

[@lacossanostra]

no with heat schrink with glue !!

[@bluebulk]

very good tutorial. i've done it this way for years. one tip: when i use the punch to crimp i saddle it into a piece of heavy angle iron. it kind of helps keep its rounded shape and looks cleaner. i use heat shrink with adhesive in it to protect when the cables are used outdoors. if i have a question about the viability of a joint i just cut off the shrink and re shrink if its ok.

[@fuzzyelm1]

Only an idiot would believe anything this idiot said or did

[@robertgantry2118]

You can also drill a small hole in the copper terminal through which to apply the solder. That's what I do...

[@kezzatries]

I have been soldering cables since before my apprenticeship, 1 you are using solder lugs they do not need crimping. 2 you put the lug into the vice heat and fill with solder to just below the lip. 3 whilst the solder is hot and with a little flux on the wire push the wire slowly into the solder, whilst still heating the lug outer, raise the wire up and down a few times and you will see the solder run into the wire push in, remove heat, let cool. Finished perfect joint. Your method of crimp does not produce a good crimp, that is butchering. Quick does not equal best. For extra low voltage you are setting your self up for trouble.

[@anomilumiimulimona2924]

Kezza Tries, funny thing is I always drill a little hole at the bottom of the lug and solder it thru the hole, but I'm gonna have to try your technique now.

[@kezzatries]

@@anomilumiimulimona2924 cool, I look forward to hearing back from you, re your results. Tip, when you put the lug into the vice, only hold the tip of the termination (say up to the hole) end, other wise the vice will act like a huge heatsink. Do it right and it is quite quick, no t as quick as crimping, but much better than. I recently purchased cables made up, with some batteries (so they came from the battery suppliers) test the crimp by pulling the ends came off some, imagine them with a 4000 watt inverter. With extra low DC volts never crimp, especially where high currents are involved, or when you are solar charging. Cheers Mate.

[@anomilumiimulimona2924]

Kezza Tries, thanks that's good to know. Maybe I'll try it out tomorrow.

[@countryflyer4536]

Spend the $12 bucks for crimper, put electric grease on wire and use heavy duty heat shrink, heat up until you see the glue on the ends start to liquefy. Then you know if the joint is good, Zinc coated copper lugs are a better choice as well, they don't corrode!!!!

[@timw911]

So you are recommended puttng dielectric grease on the stripped bare wires. Then iserting the wires into the connector and crimping it. Then sliding the heat shrink sleeve over the greased wire connector and applying heat to shrink and seal the sealant filled sleeve??? What do you think happens to that grease when its heated up and what effect that now thin liquidized grease running out of the connector under the heat shrink sleeve and its sealant. How well does adhesives stick to surfaces coated in grease? How well does sleeve seal with expanding grease pushing seeping out from under it. How about we lose the dielectric grease and save that to allie to the connector lug mating surface after the connector is installed on the wire. Nickel and zinc coatings slows corrosion they are not corrosion proof. They will corrode. If you think otherwise put some battery acid on them and see what happens in a few weeks months.

[@abqgolfer]

You say you don't have the proper crimper, then followed by you don't have the proper solder but your title says "the Right Way". That's awesome.

[@GenericUserUnknown]

Thank for making this video. Crimping is the preferred method for making the connection. Solder is subject to failure under vibration. Also, crimp connections alleviate the connection problems associated with wire and terminal hardware corrosion, as the mechanical action of the crimping crushes the oxidation layer, guaranteeing the low resistance connection. Soldering only encapsulates the existing corrosion, which causes a lowered ampacity. Crimp connection with v-divits are preferred to flat crimps, due to the mechanical properties of the interface created. Use of heat shrink, especially adhesive lined, is preferred, due to the added mechanical strain relief, as well as its ability to seal out corrosive elements. But not everyone needs a connection designed by an electrical engineer. :-p

[@hookedonhobbies9825]

Agreed, we run 48V@600A at my facility and all lugs from 6/0 to 12G are crimped, no solder

[@gatorwing6231]

This video should be titled "Wrong Way". The solder has to meet the copper wire somewhere and it will make a rigid joint. With vibration that is where it will fail. The terminals are flared to allow some wire flex after the terminal has been properly crimped.

[@WillProwse]

That's wrong

[@clovermark39]

I thought so too after watching the way you and others do it!

[@M0UAW_IO83]

So much wrong in one video, factual, process, everything. It's pretty much a guide on how *not* to make up cables

[@mrobvious5892]

agreed, dead wrong.

[@zdravkomomci7570]

Where's your link to how you make one if you comment like that?

[@mrobvious5892]

@@zdravkomomci7570 ask Randall Goguen, the English physicist, he specializes in battery cables (doesn’t know anything else, but he’s adamant that he knows his way around a battery cable)!!😁 he’s your “go-to” guy!🥴

[@MYCHANNELWITHMYSTUFF]

Correctly crimped, the copper lug and wire become fused into one piece of metal. Tests show that crimping (VS soldering) is stronger and longer lasting under tension and heat. The aerospace industry uses crimping, as does Siemens motors.

[@1ftintheflames]

Heat shrink should always be used on cable terminations especially for automotive applications. Its not to hide or pretty things up. use adhesive lined shrink tubing and the wire strands will stay protected from moisture and corrosion. If you were to leave the strands exposed at the terminal like in this video and use them on anything automotive or otherwise outside in the elements that cable connection would be the color of moldy bread within a couple months. And would leave the cable with high resistance and voltage/current drop. Also if you want those terminals to last more than a year in any use exposed to outdoor elements youd want to use coated terminals. Bare copper will be corroded in a month especially directly connected to a battery thats venting right next to the terminal. Also getting a decent hydraulic crimper isnt that expensive you can get one that'll crimp up to 0 gauge terminals for less than your vise hammer and drift cost. I emplore you to get one and compare your crimps/soldering to the results of the hydraulic crimper. Get a hacksaw out and cut the terminal in the middle of your crimps and look at the difference. The hydraulic crimper will cold fuse all the wire strands to the connector. It will never separate and wont allow any moisture/corrosion in the crimp.

[@knurlgnar24]

Vehicles, especially Japanese imports, have been made with simple bare wire cable clamps on the batteries for decades. It's not my favorite setup for that application but that's what they've been doing. Heatshrink is a corrosion catcher, not a preventer in real life. If you want your cable to last in an outdoor environment you need to encase it in something that will not corrode like solder. This is what nearly all vehicle manufacturers do now - essentially soldered connections (metal impregnated and molded, but basically the same). The whole 'cold weld' theory taught by crimper manufacturers is NOT science and is not true. You will find that info documented in 'best practices' information for technicians but if you look in research whitepapers you'll find real data which does not support that theory. I do have a hydraulic crimper now but rarely use it. Does it make better terminations? Yes. Better enough to matter? Not really in most cases.

[@mehmetdtx]

@@knurlgnar24 you can make a video comparing the two

[@timthemechanix]

I just pick up this crimper that comes with changeable teeth and has a hydraulic cylinder with a turn on/off valve. It also works on cable for regular tie downs for fences, poles. And I agree with you on the shrink tube.

[@jcmover123]

Heat shrink for cosmetic purpose?That was a funny i admit.

[@oldmanriver1057]

I always solder my cable lugs after I crimp the lugs! Just got this video today!

[@johnmitchell9538]

Great video on how to make a cable if you need one in an emergency, otherwise buy the proper crimp tool and do it properly.

[@spelunkerd]

Those are interesting points about heat shrink, it is always nice to hear a contrary point of view. I use heat shrink to separate moisture from the metal of the conductor. Any unheated room will predictably reach the dew point temperature overnight, where moisture in the air condenses on anything. That moisture then promotes galvanic reactions, oxidation, and corrosion. There is a reason corrosion of battery terminals is largely confined to the posts, where contiguous moisture can wick up any unprotected wire. On the other hand, your remark about actually seeing what is going on is certainly valid.

[@clusa3721]

Many thanks for your video. However, I read the following" While battery terminal covers aren't strictly necessary, many new vehicles use them to prevent short-circuiting or arcing against the car body. Battery terminal covers can be plastic, rubber or any kind of synthetic polymer that can seal the terminals against water and incidental electrical contact." and I guess, the same goes for the shrink sleeves.

[@mikeburke8656]

I like how you gathered your tools together and set up your workstation.

[@stormand]

I thought your wire selection guides were pretty good, but your cable termination advice is a bit sketchy. You are doing a disservice to people by calling this "the right way" in the title. This is a better than average "hack" way to make cables (since most people really suck making cables the "average" isn't very good). Your connections should work OK, and I've seen worse... and maybe using solder is better than someone having a cable that is only crimped poorly. But no way can you crimp something in a vise (among other issues) and call it the "right" way. I would suggest that people do a lot more research on proper crimping (and inexpensive tools that can help) vs solder or crimp + solder connections before deciding to follow your advice. Especially for mobile and high current use! And you say heat shrink is only for cosmetics? Yikes! Well, I can understand why you want to keep an eye on the terminations you've made using these methods as they are going to be failure prone. (But without the heat shrink they WILL fail even faster!) On the other hand, you shouldn't need to keep such a close eye on well made, properly crimped lugs protected with high quality glue filled heat shrink.

[@knurlgnar24]

Heat shrink is definitely only for cosmetics. There are no exceptions to this and there are multiple reasons for this both logical and practical. However I agree that a vise is not the best way to crimp and I do have an inexpensive American made crimping die that I sometimes use. The point here is that the average person doesn't need any special stuff to make safe cables. Cables made in your garage with garage tools can be more effective and long lasting than the majority of the commercially made junk out there on the market. In fact I trust the vise crimps more than the die's crimps that I have due to better strain relief on the individual strands. This method most definitely does work, and it works reliably.

[@knurlgnar24]

Glue filled heat shrink is good stuff BTW and I put that in a separate category then standard heat shrink. But I still don't use it on 'battery' cables due to corrosion issues and inspection difficulties.

[@stormand]

***** As I said, I've seen worse cables, but you title this video as "the right way" and that is waaaaay off the mark. If you posted this on a welding forum or a marine forum, those people would flame you to death. Your method is "a" way if you really, really really don't want to spend less than $20 on a hammer crimping tool (still not great) or $50 for a hydraulic crimper at harbor freight, or if you really don't want to fork over $10 or $20 to have a local auto parts store make them. And some welding supply shops don't even charge to crimp if you are buying cable and lugs from them. You don't position your advice as "this will get you by with OK cables" you are basically advising people they don't even need to try to do it using using one of the more widely accepted methods and proper tools. Same thing when you blow off heat shrink without pointing out that adhesive heat shrink is a different story (and I think widely accepted as a good idea).

[@knurlgnar24]

Darin Weeks Using adhesive lined heat shrink is still a very bad practice. Cables made this way are not merely 'OK'. They are far superior to most commercially made cables.

[@stormand]

***** When adhesive lined heat shrink protects a well made crimped connection, you are providing nearly perfect protection against corrosion. There should be almost no oxygen anywhere in the connection and no way for acid or moisture to get in. As such, there is no need to monitor the area under the heat shrink visually as it would be more likely for the lug itself to corrode to the point it is unusable. The fact that you are so intent on monitoring this area is exactly what makes me think your cables stink.... and it seems like you just don't realize how bad they are (but again, to give you credit, as I've said, i've seen much worse). You should absolutely not have any undue worry about that area with a well made cable. With your cables, there is no question that the connection area is going to fail first. But anyway, I guess we'll have to agree to disagree. You are sorely misguided if you think that you'd ever see cables like yours used in an installation by a trained professional (and I'm not talking about a car audio guy). I'm not a professional BTW so that is not why I'm saying that. I have no idea what kind of "commercial" cables you are talking about where you find yours are superior or what planet you are on thinking that crimping in a vise makes your connections better than commercial equipment. Unless you are just saying you sourced better wire than you'll find in cheap chinese jumper cables. But in that case, you are talking about retail cables, not quality commercial/industrial grade cables.

[@jimzeleny7213]

I hold the ring terminal in a vise vertically. Then fill the cavity with short lengths of rosin core solder. The cable insulation is removed and the lug heated until the solder melts. While the solder is still molten the cable is then plunged into the solder and left to cool. Finally, heat shrink is placed over the terminal. No crimping attempted or necessary.

[@Thewolverine691]

I usually fill the terminal up with molten solder then re heat and dip the cable into the opening and let it cool. Heat shrink and your done for a better cleaner look. U can also use lead.

[@joelmurphy7980]

I flux and tin the cable. Tin then fill the terminal with solder and stick the cable in the molten solder. Hit it a few passes with the heat to ensure it's flowed through all the strands, some heat shrink on it, done.

[@kennethfulgium8062]

The reason for a good heat shrink wrap is to prevent oxidation by sealing the oxygen from the copper wire.

[@dennishensley1150]

YES,YES!

[@bobpowers9862]

Excellent video. I like to drop small pieces of solder wire into the little crevice of the ring terminal first, then insert the wire, then heat and add more solder. That way I know the end crevices are filled with solder. Heat shrink. The key to using that, is you really ought to use dielectric grease (or high quality axle grease) on your non-soldered joints. Or even better, buy electrical no-oxide paste. It's cheap enough, NoOx is one brand. But you basically coat the raw copper cable in the grease/paste, then insert. Crimp as you did. Finally, wipe off all excess grease/paste, and slip on a heat-shrink. The combination of grease/paste/HS tubing will make a cable that you could pass down to your grandkids. If you heat the heat-shrink quickly, and don't go crazy with excess heat, it won't melt the protective grease/paste.

[@dalegribble60]

I know the connection's good and there is no corrosion under my heat shrink because I did it.

[@kwacz]

because i did it WTF can you guarantee this statement is true 7 years from now.

[@dalegribble60]

@@kwacz Because I've been heat shrinking for 40 years with no issues?

[@billrussell7672]

I made my own terminals with copper pipe of the right inner diameter flatened a end and drilled thru it. I also had wire half as big as I needed so I doubled it up I cut my resistance by 1/3,,, by running a steel cable with the copper cable you will reduce the flux field inductance further....... plumbers pipe flux also works great for difficult soldering they have soldering tip cleaner at radio shack or frys that will solder the impossible connections I always keep a small tin around of it

[@TheMowjo]

Pierre! I totaly agree, this Video should be called How not to do it,,,

[@SRFDriver]

So we can look forward to YOUR video on How To Do It?

[@randallgoguen3463]

@@SRFDriver You need a video to tell you not to solder battery terminals?

[@SRFDriver]

@@randallgoguen3463 Read what I wrote again: There was nothing in my comment about how NOT to do it--that was in yours.

[@randallgoguen3463]

@@SRFDriver I read you comment again. I thought you were trying to be an arse both times.

[@SRFDriver]

@@randallgoguen3463 I "though" you couldn't spell

[@jayherde0]

I see comments about the automotive industry NEVER using solder for terminals. I'm no expert, however I have never seen a factory made battery cable that doesn't have a lead battery terminal on a copper wire. It seems to me that it's basically a copper wire with a big blob of solder on the end. I like the idea of using transparent heat shrink as commented earlier. There is also something out there called "no clean" flux which does not cause corrosion on circuit boards, although I have not used it yet. ... I really like the idea of having just the right length of cable for the job.

[@gravelydon7072]

There is a difference between Lead and solder. The terminals are cast of nearly pure Lead while solder is a mixture of metals. Lead based solder is actually becoming harder to get and much of it is a mix of Lead, Tin, and Antimony. In fact, Tin is the major component in much of it now days if it is for electrical work. Often as high as 63% Tin to only 37% Lead. Battery terminals will have some Zinc in them in most cases to make the Lead harder.

[@fibranijevidra]

I have payed hydraulic crimmper on Amazon around 20 EUR just to crimp few cables. Makes sense to me. It is cheap, quick and proper way of making cables.

[@supersnot4]

I do it the same way we do it at work, on aircraft, which is simply to crimp it. There are two factors at play which are the most important: 1. Connector quality - look for thick gauge metal. NAPA carries decent quality crimps, and most people have a NAPA store nearby. 2. Proper crimp pressure - Best thing to use is either a hydraulic crimp tool or a mechanical tool with a large enough lever designed for cables of this size. The solid copper terminals shown here are NOT thick enough to retain crimp tension on the wire, and the only acceptable way to secure them is to solder them. Personally, while I have used them in the past on my personal stuff, I stopped a long time ago.

[@dob3079]

“I’m only going to heat the end piece here so I don’t oxidize the wire... “ then processes to roast the shit out of the entire thing..looked like he thought he was soldering a copper pipe

[@chocolate_squiggle]

Wow you guys really just wilfully ignored ALL the times he stated there are better ways to do this - like having larger solder so it doesn't take as long. Like someone else said - he's not going to the moon with this cable. It's good enough for what he needs. Fucking pedantic perfectionists do my fucking head in....

[@sceplecture2382]

@@chocolate_squiggle Look at the title of the video.

[@tryagain.k1821]

@@chocolate_squiggle Bodger.

[@danburch9989]

I heat the connecton until the solder flows. I intermittently apply heat as needed to keep the solder flowing. Never continuously keep the torch on the connector. Keeps the heat from melting the insulation.

[@obfuscated3090]

A quick, efficient , quality way to make battery cables is to buy some appropriate gauge welding cable (they will cut it to length) and lugs at your local welding supply. There are various ways to crimp the lugs but the tool for the job is usually under twenty dollars and well worth it. Welding cable lugs are not soldered because solder melts under extreme heat. They are crimped, and so are most modern aircraft connectors. Crimping is fine if done properly. There are many professional splicing and termination videos on KZbin, Auto store "battery cable" is junk compared to the tough, fine-strand cable used for welding leads. They take a harder beating than any typical battery cable and have low resistance.

[@andy69607]

Do Not use this method on Mains Voltage, In the UK, its best practice to use the correctly sized lugs and cable using a Calibrated Crimp tool without the need for soldering....

[@FastenDeezNutz]

Soldering reduces resistance. Increases strength

[@slow_rednline4874]

@@FastenDeezNutz but a crimp is way stronger and not brittle

[@davidbruhlmann6497]

@@FastenDeezNutz Not really...

[@craigmonteforte1478]

Good tip , over the years i’ve owned many Boats and almost everyone i’ve needed new Cables for i also own a dually Diesel Havy Duty Pick Up truck that uses 24 volt Starting Systems. for some strange reason General Motors uses Crappy Cables that wind up failing Prematurely and i don’t want to spend more Money on buying the same Quality replacement ones the Dealerships sell so i make my own Custom ones for that Vehicle it also allows me to move my Batteries slightly into a better Position for my accessories and other Electrical modifications having the larger Batteriy System i like to add a Inverter system in my cabin area for conveniences of traveling and towing trailers ( i used to carry a small generator) but with the Ethanol fuel here days. it’s a pain that it gums up the Fuel systems and goes Bad quickly so the Inverter is more reliable and the Factory set up supports it very well today with all our Electronics and Gadgets having too many 110volt Plugs isn’t a problem so i build Custom Consoles to make it look like a Factory thing on the Interiors !

[@overlandready]

I really hope you have learned that this is far from the best way and is actually a fail on so many points. Firstly, you cause a brittle point in the cable (it WILL snap in time, with vibration like you'll find on a diesel vehicle)The outer casing is too short, it should but to the connector, you burned the outer casing, you crimped a solder joint (Biggest no-no there!) Crimp OR solder, not both. As for using the vice to crimp, it squashes the lug instead of squeezing it so acrually is less effective by far and it looks awful.In my line of work or play it would be failed and binned everytime, just buy a cheap crimper, there are versions from hydraulic hex finish, manual die to the back and even a really inexpensive "hit with hammer in a vice" machines. All do better quality and finish.

[@stovepipe9er]

The hammer crimp tool is $20-$25, I just picked one up today. Easy to use and fast, I’m not soldering them any more.

[@JLemley1960]

As for as the heat shrink option, there's a type that has an internal epoxy coating that will effectively make the location air/water tight. You can usually find them where they sell welding supplies (cabling, O2 refills, etc) and are available in various colors. They are also a great place for the rest of the cabling, ends, etc that you may be looking for when building battery cables, whether for off-grid power systems or auto/truck/farm batteries. I will buy common cable sizes in "bulk" lengths for the cost savings and the convenience of having a ready source when something "pops up". By being able to have a "one stop shopping" resource that can cover 95% or more of what I need, I'm saving time and money just in the single source stop alone. If I can work out a discount that's in both our favors, it's icing on the cake. Blessings to All and God Bless the USA 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸

[@donald1meyer]

I get the same stuff. Double walled with adhesive. Just look for marine worthy.

[@slrs3908]

Many comments about heat shrink tubing that has glue inside. Great stuff, but before that came along, you could make your connection, cover with a thin layer of silicone, slide the tubing over and shrink it. Made a perfectly sealed connection. Make sure you use silicone that does NOT contain acid as it will literally turn the wires to dust (experienced that). Just smell it to see the difference. If it smells like vinegar, use a different tube. The cheaper types such as sink and bathroom blend are acid, others are not.

[@jbman413]

I have been crimping cables for way longer than I want to remember. Having said that recently while considering an electric APU for my van I came across Trojan Battery company document WP_Battery Cable Guide_0512. This changed everything in my thinking the solder pellets are the way to go see the thermal image pics on page two. When i do my cables I will be doing it that way. Thanks for the video I appreciate it. John B

[@neil03051957]

This is a DIY spectacular I am a Euro Master craftsman level, if you solder fine then do so, crimping would be quicker and a ratchet type crimper should be used as it applies the correct pressure and folds the bare conductor inside the ferrule to ensure maximum internal contact. If you choose to solder then do so without creating a brittle copper conductor (changing resistivity) at the end of the conductor entering the ferule - to do that you should ideally be a craftsman.

[@jimh9617]

i like how your video says the "right way" then you slam the thing in a vise. wh... yo... nevermid. just go away

[@Chris-yy7qc]

Im glad Im not the only one who noticed that. The video title should be: how NOT to do it

[@Donaldtrummp]

@@Chris-yy7qc the vice grip & the solder was a lil too much but i mean if you dont got the crimper, hit it with the vice then hammer down with a flat tool to press it should be okay right? thats kinda what a crimping tool is, a flat tool that presses down with force I can't defend him on the no heat shrink comment though if you do it with a press & hammer def use heat shrink lol

[@Chris-yy7qc]

@@Donaldtrummp That would be just another hack job... Do it the proper way or dont do it.

[@Matthew_Loutner]

I just get a bigger hammer . . . 🔨

[@inoahmann7542]

@@Chris-yy7qc if you don't have a crimper solder will be fine as long as the wire insulation doesn't get burned and you heat shrink the connection. A solder joint will have a lower resistance than a crimp.

[@lgninjalo]

Lots of people said that you made these incorrectly. Now, of course the best way is to use a hexagonal crimping pattern in order to cold-weld the connections. But, given that I make electrical connections for a living, I would be perfectly fine with these connections. They are just fine.

[@charleskettering2626]

He keeps saying way not to do it this way corrosion. A high draw will melt a solder connection. U.S. Coast Guard only recognizes mechanical, crimp, connections for use in marine apps.

[@waynesmith9765]

Well everyone knows the Coast Guard never made a mistake.

[@BSS22193]

Nice video 👍 i'm going to the same thing when i should change the batterycables on my tractor but i'm going to use heatshrink over the terminals. And the reasons for that is that it protects the cables from coroding and that it also looks better. You are just letting the moisture inside your cables whitout using heatshrink.

[@moto9ll]

Obviously this guy has been doing this for a while and for his purposes it works completely fine otherwise he wouldn't be doing it this way if it was problematic

[@knurlgnar24]

Not one cable made this way has failed and I have made very, very many. Cables 'professionally' made have failed on me many times.

[@jimmieroan9881]

@@knurlgnar24 you could say the same thing about lots of jobs but it doesn't make it right, crimping done right works for many reasons, what most on here are not thinking about is when you have a bad crimp the individual wire strands are not fused together leaving room for air, and that air causes corrosion, and i doubt anyone could honestly think shrink wrap could be air tight. none have failed on you , lets compare that to leaving lug nuts loose on your car, you might drive thousands of miles with out a failure, then a wheel falls off and you die. its never best to think you don't make mistakes or to never leave room to learn, if nothing else just go on your own to an electrical shop, or maybe the library and look up how aircraft wiring is done, surely you don't think you that smart, but it is good that if something you do fails it won't fall out of the air it will just not start.

[@Quacks0]

I use copper tubing for heavy-duty electrical jumpers --- just pound or vise-squeeze the ends flat, then drill holes and attach them to the bolt-terminals.

[@philmifsud4127]

totally wrong buy the proper crimping tool and you will save a ton of time and have a great connection and you should have used rosin core solder the same solder they use on electronics acid core solder is used for plumbing rosin core solder is used for electronics no soldering paste involved, you don't have to worry about the acid eating the connection.

[@timwaddle9629]

If you’re going to use a vise to crimp, you can cut a nut in half, pick a nut size smaller than the terminal, then use the vise to squeeze the nut halves together crimping the terminal.

[@Paul-gz5dp]

When putting connectors on the cables, buying some heat shrink with glue on the inside is a much better choice than using electrical tape to seal the ends. Also some silicone grease to keep the acid out is a good idea as well when inserting the cable. A tight crimp with clean wire is always required for a good connection that lasts. Clean as in no oxides or dirt, and cleaning the wires and lugs with acid either sulpheric or hydrochloric is needed, but must not by concentrated. Always pour acid into water to dilute, never the other way around. You will get a steam explosion and possible blindness if you do not follow this rule.

[@SuperGreyfox99]

if using the small solder. What i do is stretch out 1 ft long and i spool it back and forth across 2 points 1 ft apart. Usually about 5 or 6 times then twist this up and it gives you a nice thick solder. The heat shrink tubing is nice to label 12 volt positive and negative. Dual wall works very well also for protection. If you have that green type corrosion, use hot water and baking soda. Works like a champ to neutralize the acid from the battery tops. My 2 cents and thanks for making the video........... you rock.

[@TinShackVideos]

1.5" piece of copper tubing,push stripped wire all the way to end,smash half the length of tubing flat with big hammer,drill desired hole size through flat area,no solder.

[@skyym3629]

If you use the bench vice to crimp it, try holding a BB (like those used for BB guns) with needle nose pliers in the middle of the area you want crimped. Once the vice is holding it steady against the copper fitting, crank down on your vice. Thanks for the video and information. Thumbs up

[@DennisFriedman]

If have corrosion under your heat shrink, you will see it bubble up underneath and eventually see it push out, I was mechanic all my life, thank you

[@knurlgnar24]

Yup, eventually. But long after the connection has failed. In the meantime it will overheat and damage your battery and be a fire hazard. It's better to see the problem right away.

[@DennisFriedman]

I disagree, I was a truck mechanic all my life, sometimes dealing with 4 batteries per truck, you have to use heat shrink, trucks come from the factory with it, batteries leak tiny amounts of battery acid as they age, with 4 batteries, thats 8 battery cables, the cables must kept sealed.

[@DennisFriedman]

This is what happens when people say things on youtube they now nothing about, it's done so much on youtube.

[@DennisFriedman]

you are so wright.

[@wesleylyon5207]

Thanks for your time making the video. I love getting new tools but your right that's a great cost saver, especially if you just need to get 'er done. As Taryl says its not the Space shuttle. :) I did see someone already stated but thought from the other comments it was important to say again. Man people are jerks. Thanks again

[@deanb949]

No, it's not the space shuttle, but it may be a battery on your own transportation. Do you think an auto manufacturer simply smashes their lugs in a vice? There's a reason people get passionate about issues, It's to make a point to people who cannot decipher from their amateur standpoint.

[@mikegoodman447]

Like your video's! Buy a Hammer Indent Crimper and leave the solder out.

[@danburch9989]

In an exposed environment such as under a car's hood, I would crimp and solder. Crimping makes the electrical connection and solder seals the connection from water and dust intrusion. I've seen exposed crimped battery cable connections almost breaking aprart due to corrosion. I've never had a problem with rosin flux corrosion. Acid flux is a different and corrosive flux. That's why today's battery cable clamps are molded around the cable wires as a single unit. The slighest amount of resistance can drop the battery voltage at the starter to the point tha it can't turn over the engine. That can lead to the misdiagnosis as a bad battery.

[@normreynolds1179]

Well, I see that the population of Dorkville is growing steadily.

[@wphubert]

The USCG used for require hot dipped joints. We we -remake all the cables and then we would melt a pot of fluk and melt a solder pot. It was very fast, dip into the flick then into the solder. They required that the solder went up the wire a distance of of on half the wire length. Don’t believe this is in the CFR. anymore.heard that it could create a crack in the joint. But it sure made great conductivity.

[@pauljanssen2624]

Buy a cable tool and do it right and don't forget to heat shrink

[@sandy1234853]

the heat shrink is also protecting for the gases you talked about if you can't pull the cable out then its fine

[@SuperAWaC]

there's just so much incorrect stuff in this video that i don't know where to start. all i can recommend is nobody follow the advice in this video, go ask a professional. you should take this video down unless you leave it up as an example of what not to do.

[@PCMenten]

@SuperAWaC The moment I saw the kraft knife being used to strip the cable, I knew this was going to be bad. If this is intended to be a ‘right way’ video, let’s start by talking about using the right tools or explaining what the risks are by doing a gypsy job. I think a competent electrician will tell you the risk of nicking the conductors when stripping insulation using a razor blade knife. It creates a spot of high resistance that will heat up the exposed wires and promote corrosion. Since this was a demonstration video, i suggest stripping the insulation to the proper length. If you’ve stripped too much insulation, why not trim the end of the cable until it’s the right length? As others have pointed out, tin the wire before inserting it in the connector. It’s not that hard to fabricate a quick-and-dirty crimping tool rather than just squashing the connector. Heat-shrink and plastidip are a good way to seal the part. Use a multi-meter to determine if there’s a problem developing with the connection.

[@furryweasel01]

a way to help keep the corrosion out of the ends is to smear some grease around the connections it will help keep them from corroding and it also works on battery terminals as well have used it for years it can be a little messy but it works.

[@autoworks2843]

THIS IS HOW ITS NOT DONE !!! USE CORRECT TOOLS PLEASE

[@stevenlawhon3695]

Hear hear

[@brianf8621]

😂😂😂😂

[@nebraskaman8247]

Helpful tip. Hold your torch under the terminal pointed upwards, and add the solder from the top. The solder will flow evenly all the way to the bottom of the terminal.

[@SeriousSchitt]

And fry the insulation in doing so!

[@kujawat]

someone slide some opaque black heat shrink over this whole video... then hold a heat gun to it... this video should be sealed from further viewing.. and oxygen... LOL

[@proofofpurchase747]

😆 👊

[@ryoung6730]

If you used the proper crimping tool and appropriate die you actually seal off the inside of the termination then the solder is just to effectively seal off the outside air/water from reaching the clean dry interior you end up with a cable end that will last much longer.

[@DominikKaskader]

"How to Make Battery Cables the Wrong Way"

[@jeeper426]

i tend to solder high current heavy gauge cables when i build them, and i tend to use adhesive lined heat activated heat shrink tube at the ends as identifiers, red, black, blue etc, to identify what the cable is, what it goes to, and where it terminates, black or green for chassis or engine block grounds, blue for alternator charge feed, red for main power, white for starter, things like that, or if i'm wiring up a setup which has multiple batteries and i'm using an isolator i'll use orange for the feed from the alt to the isolator, red for bank 1, blue for bank2, common grounds are always black and the bypass solenoid (emergency start) is usually yellow or gray, high current loads overheat crimps and cause failures, weak cold solder joints can fail due to stress causing heat on the joint, and undersize wires tend to burn up, the tips in this video are fine if you are doing mild to low current applications, as he mentioned, cables for inverters or such, but for higher current i highly recommend soldering and sealing joints for safety. but that's just my .02 cents, a conductivity test will show if you have a good crimp it should be lower than 0.1ohm resistance for proper minimal loss, and a crimped connection should NEVER be hot to the touch unless the entire cable is warm in which case, step up in wire size for safety if that happens and its not just a hot environment they are operating in (engine bay for example)... sorry for rambling this is just something i had hammered into my head when i started working on vehicles and motor controls

[@raddddix]

" there really isn't any good reason to use heat shrink" 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣😂😂😂😂😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣😂😂😂😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣😂😂😂😂😂😂😂🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄

[@knurlgnar24]

There isn't in the vast majority of applications. I've heard no valid argument to this.

[@markllev356]

You would think if you were going to do a video like this you would use some of the correct crimping tools. Then again I guess your method works for a farm tractor on its last leg! No heat shrink, it hides too much? Might as well strip the insulation off of the wire, has to be something hiding there also! If you crimp and solder it correctly, there should be zero reasons to not use heat shrink to clean it up! Plus I would want heat shrink to hide your vice crimp!

[@artsigur3612]

I put the ring terminal in a vise, tin the strands on the wire, melt solder into the cup of the terminal and stick the wire in there. Easy for #2.

[@thephantom1492]

Terrible first way: never ever use plumber flux! Atleast you used electronics solder, it does contain enought flux to do the job right. If you are worried about the oxidation under the heatshrink, before applying, add a bit of dielectric grease. Then seal with the tube. The excess will flow out and now you have a basically water tight cable.

[@clutch1141]

Some days I have to make several cables cut to length with terminals. I use a hydraulic cable crimp tool I got at harbor freight. It's quick and makes strong, professional looking crimps and there's no need for vices and torches.

[@knurlgnar24]

I have one too and it doesn't work well.

[@gravelydon7072]

Funny, I too have one and it works fine with the terminals I use.

[@TargaWheels]

"I am the Termination" (Arnold voice) 👍

[@jdrs4214]

“I em de termination”

[@raychambers3646]

In the UK you can hire a crimper .soldering can break down due to vibration, would not recommend "crimping" in vice.

[@JerryLaw]

if you do the job the right way heat shrink will not hide and defect

[@sethagreen]

If you use your keyboard the right way, you won't have any smelling errors.... I purposely used the word smelling because I think dry humor and sarcasm are funny!

[@HanggliderRosey]

I solder all the time, its works very well.. my grandpa and my father solder and there wiring projects are still around, this is a great video!!

[@All2Skitzd]

a proper crimp has less resistance, and in car audio when you got fuses rated for 200AMPS or more I always worried it would reflow solder before blowing fuse making problem way worse but if you do it that the solder with the silver is the way to go IMO

[@mikeiver]

The liquid flow temp of tin/silver solder is not much higher than that of 63/37 eutectic, about 37C. In the end it will still heat up and flow. CRIMP!

[@williamroach3079]

Follow this link, this is the correct way to terminate the ends of the cable. www.pbase.com/mainecruising/battery_cables

[@slowboat2156]

william roach thanks for the link,

[@Fusyxu]

The info behind this link is awesome. The blog has moved to: marinehowto.com/making-your-own-battery-cables/

[@michaelbeilsmith794]

Use transparent heat shrink so that visual inspection is possible . Heat shrink also acts as a stress reliever and if quality shrink is used it is an insulator. Thanks for the video.

[@philliprevels4906]

If I made cables like that, I'd be fired

[@paulcharman44]

You and be both! Utter crap!

[@runawayrose6320]

Great video , would it be ok to use welding cable. we have a bunch of it and wanted to use it. thank you for your help.

[@madjimms]

I just buy cheap copper tubing from True Value/ACE and smash one end flat, then drill a hole.

[@gregorythomas333]

You can also make your own terminal connectors with copper pipe. Tools: Pipe cutter, hammer, drill, drill bit, measuring tape (optional) Select the size of pipe you need for the size of wire you will be using...cut off the amount you need (pipe cutter) to put on the wire plus the amount needed for the terminal hole. Hammer one end of the pipe flat...use drill & bit (sized to your terminal stud) to make a hole through the flat end...place open end on wire & connect with punch and/or solder.

[@v8consumption]

a good crimp wont really except any solder because its crimped so tight there are no air pockets

[@waynesmith9765]

BS

[@vanamee692]

Regardless of the criticisms raised by other commenters about to solder or not to solder and how to crimp -- would it not be better to solder first and then crimp? Soldering first will help to fill the air gaps between all those little wire strands. Then the crimping process will squeeze a more solid wire instead of something with air gaps. Also, if you're going to crimp with a vise, wouldn't it be better to lay a small diameter (perhaps 3/16") solid steel rod crosswise and use that to make a depression instead of trying to simply squeeze the entire joint area? Just some ideas and suggestions from a DIYer.

[@JosephFrancisBurns]

the solder will make its way in all the crevices like water. it really gets in there. and yes, squishing the terminal like he did is poor practice. you want to use a punch and hammer if no crimping tool is available.

[@yarpos]

Video would be OK if he was maybe a little less grandiose with the titles "the right way". You can get away with any of these approaches if you just need to get something running and dont have the correct stuff at hand. For a installation you want to keep long term , maybe not so much.

[@nickstidham9024]

Adhesive Heat shrink is recommended. It helps prevent corrosion. They trained me proper way of making cables when I was building locomotives which is meant for all kinds of weather. And not easy to change out either.