Battery Keep Dying? Simple Tests For A Battery Drain (Parasitic Draw)

[@jordancushings2611]

Thank you, I have a parasitic draw somewhere on my vehicle and after spending £700 to keep my car on the road already this year I was fearing the worst. Had the battery and alternator tested they were fine. Thanks to your video I have gained the confidence where I'm going to have a go myself and see if I can work out the problem. Massively appreciate how easy and understandable you made it to follow (hopefully i can sort this now) thanks again 😊

[@dr6124]

Sorted?

[@manueltorres3735]

I have a 2006 GMC Sierra Denali that's had a parasitic drain for the past 2 yrs since I've bought it. I've never been able to figure out the problem, but I feel this video will point me in the right direction in getting my problem solved.

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Manuel, thanks for watching! I hope you get the issue fixed up! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@manueltorres3735]

@@GoTechTraining I found my issue! I had heard a humming noise coming from the passenger side under dash. So I pulled the cover and touched the blower motor resistor and it was super hot! I thought that was odd cause the truck hadn't been started in a day or so, so I pulled fuse 40A for blower motor and it turned off. Upon inspection of the resistor I found it was super corroded! I recharged the battery and measured volts and it hasnt dropped since I pulled the fuse 40A. I plugged the resistor back in and fuse 40A and the volts on my battery where dropping significantly! This video was very helpful!

[@00708046]

Your explanation was great . The fact that a fuse is around 0 ohms made me wonder about a voltage drop but like you said nothing is perfect conductor . The small drop now makes sense . It's not so much the amount of voltage drop but the fact that there is any voltage drop means there is current flow . Thank you !

[@thisorthat7626]

Thanks for mentioning to open all doors, trunk, hood, and lock the doors. I have watched a lot of videos on parasitic draws and you are the first person to mention opening the doors and listening for clicks.

[@SchrodingersBox]

Great job. I started adopting the voltage drop method years ago- it’s way better than pulling fuses. I also only ever use an amp clamp now as leaving the meter in amp mode accidentally can be majorly catastrophic on your next circuit test.

[@mannymalistic]

Your process is logical and very enlightening. I'm dealing with an OBD Reader showing engine switch on V of 10.8 but direct meter read off +/- battery terminals of 12.9V. Brand new alternator and new battery. Will replace battery current sensor and hope for improvement, otherwise will embark on parasitic draw investigation using your technique! Thank you, quite informative!

[@rickrogers2649]

I learned it's not just new vehicles that can take some time to go to sleep. I have a 20 year old Ford Ranger (built back when CAN was something soup came in) that had a parasitic draw. Found the problem in an aftermarket alarm but still had a draw. I did some research and found a battery saver relay stayed picked for 40 minutes. Thanks for the video Mike. It's always good to see you.

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Rick, thanks for watching! Ugh 40 minutes is a long time to wait for things to go to sleep. "can was something soup came in" I like that! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@backstorywithdoctorb138]

Just dealt with this on my C240. Your procedure really works.

[@GoTechTraining]

That's awesome! Glad it work for you. Thanks for watching. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@joefleming8568]

Mike, you do a VERY good job of clearly explaining things!

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Joe, thanks for watching! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@reddah]

Ok I’m in the Bahamas, and after a 2 year drain, your video definitely helped me find my parasitic drain on my ‘14 Rdx. Thanks so much

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Tony, that's awesome to hear! What did it end up being? Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@reddah]

@@GoTechTraining it ended up being a 20amp fuse to an amp that was showing 3 mV and windshield wipers were at 1mV. And a seat detection fuse. I still have to find out what was wrong so I left fuses out of the systems I wasn’t using. But first time I haven’t had to hook and unhook battery cable.

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Tony, that's awesome! Great start! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@billyyoder8171]

Welcome back Mike. Good to see you. Have a blessed and safe week.

[@GoTechTraining]

Thanks Billy you as well! You'll be seeing more of us again ;) Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@whatworkedforme]

best practical explanation of voltage drop I have seen... a good visual demonstration. Thanks from us here in England

[@ajheiskell4313]

Thanks!! The opening doors and tripping the latches was a great tip!

[@GoTechTraining]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching Ryan W, Technical Instructor

[@arbez.nation]

It's good to see you, Mike. It has been too long. I was wondering where you had shuffled off too. Nice review of the basics. It is enough to get someone started in the right direction. I snickered a little when you said "if you only have one multimeter". Who only has one multimeter? I have dozens. I can't stop buying them. I'm still looking for the perfect EDC meter. Somewhere out there is "my precious". No, I don't have a problem (self-diagnosed). Maybe the next one will be the one... Still looking.

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey man, it has been too long! I'm around, just been a bit busy, you know. hahahaha one meter is not enough to do this for a living, that's for sure! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@simonlittlejohn9107]

Great video and fantastic explanation. However some draws are not apparent unless the vehicle is locked such as alarm systems. With testing how you have shown without locking the vehicle you may not see the issue. You are best to connect the meter in parallel to the battery ground. Lock the vehicle and allow it to go to sleep as it would be with the customer. You then loosen the battery ground and slowly lift being careful not to lose connection and connect your meter onto the battery pole. You can then remove the battery ground completely so all the current goes through your meter and you are then testing the vehicle as it would be with the customer.

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Simon, thanks for watching! Those are all great tips. I should have mentioned that I had the vehicle locked and the alarm armed. I had every latch tripped so the vehicle thought they were all closed. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@GoTechTraining]

The best would be a homemade battery disconnect device. I've seen some pretty nicely made ones that allow the meter in parallel and then turn the knob to throw the meter in series. Maybe I should do a video making one...hmmm. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@bernardaflores1720]

Welcome back my friend, the new garage looks amazing. Great info regarding this current draws, some are easy while others not so much!

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey, thanks a ton! It's been a while. Good to be back :) Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@d.d4184]

Good to see you back Mike. We missed you.

[@GoTechTraining]

D. D hey, thanks! Glad to be back! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@stevepark5504]

A faster way to voltage drop the fuses is to connect the + voltmeter lead to battery positive(or a battery stab on the fuseblock), then use the negative lead to probe the fuses. Here again, any voltage reading over 0 indicates a current flow.

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Steve thanks for watching! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@InnocentDrone-tn8nu]

Very helpful information thanks

[@richardcranium5839]

good to see ya again mike. hope all is well in your world. i'll add 50 millivolts will read 0.050 on the meter. pulling the fuse one also must be sure said fuse runs nothing else. the tough ones are the intermittant ones. the only way is to catch them in the act.

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Hey Richard! Good to hear from you. Yep, all good here :) Thanks for watching! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@christianelliott3563]

Current and voltage are two different things, youre measuring in voltage so youre looking for voltage across the fuses current would be amps/milli or microamps also its always good to make sure youre meter is in working order by testing a known good circuit before troubleshooting great video minus those few things

[@calholli]

What he could do is splice the wires under the seat and put in a simple switch and mount it under the seat where it's easy to reach-- or even mount it on the side of the seat where the other controls are. That way he can turn it on whenever he wants to move the seat and turn it right back off.. Or even make it a momentary switch. It's kinda ghetto, but it would work great and solve the problem, without buying expensive modules or motors.

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Calholli, you are exactly right! That would be a low cost effective repair on a 22 year old car that parts are probably scarce and expensive. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@mrkttrdr2919]

Good to see u back, don’t be a stranger, always clear concise informative vids thanks, be well

[@GoTechTraining]

hahah I'll try not to be! Thanks for watching. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@Carfixer193]

Great explanation of voltage drop testing, and parasitic draw, probably do this test 2 to 3 times a week. Great job.

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Kirk, sorry to hear that! I've always hated parasitic draw issues, they can be huge time soaks. thanks for watching Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@williamwilkesjr.9494]

Thanks Mike, good to see you again

[@GoTechTraining]

Thanks for watching William! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@derrickb3898]

this was a perfect video for figuring out a parasitic draw!! thank you for sharing!!

[@GoTechTraining]

Thanks Derrick! ~Mike

[@wyattoneable]

Wow, nice to see you post again Mike. Great lesson as usual, thanks.

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Wyatt, thanks man! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@mikechiodetti4482]

Hey Mike Long time, no see! Glad to see you back. I had used this method for a few years prior to retirement with success. Intermittent key off draws were the worst, sometimes a heat gun would help the offending part to become a full time current draw, or tapping with a screwdriver handle would help. Hope the family's doing well. Hang in there, spring's on the way. Take care.

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Mike! Good to be back. Yeh, intermittent anything is the worst! Fam's all good here, hope the same for you guys! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@DependableAutoTruck]

very good i had a vw that would go and come it would draw for a short time and quit and after a few minutes would start the draw again over and over. finally found it was the cd player

[@GoTechTraining]

Oh man Ford's were the worst! Think could be running on half the cylinders and only flash the light under high load lol! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@richardlewis4288]

Very instructive and clear. Great video!

[@GoTechTraining]

Thanks a ton Richard! Glad you enjoyed it! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@sjsnopek]

Excellent explanation complete with voltage/amperage levels to look out for. Thank you.

[@djosbun]

Great to see you again, Mike! I hope you and the family are well. Thank you for another excellent video!

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Dave, thanks for watching! We're all good here, thanks! Hope you and your family are doing well also. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@zieltaube55]

Best description ever for a parasitic draw. you're awesome

[@ThisUserNameShudWork]

good job, would be fun to open up the module and check the curcuit boards for moisture

[@GoTechTraining]

My guess is one of the seat motor/position sensors was stuck causing it. The customer chose not to go any further since he's the only one who drives the car and doesn't need to move the seat. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@kostadinos9581]

Good to see you again Mike! nice, simple & informative video.

[@GoTechTraining]

Thanks Kosta! :) Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@Bwanar1]

Easiest/cheapest way around that (assuming that's your only draw) is to splice in a ON/OFF switch on the hot side of that line and put it under the dash. That way you can leave it off most of the time and just switch it on for a minute on the rare times your going to move the seat. Hope that helps! ;-)

[@stuzman52]

Great video Mike with clear explanations along with the demonstrations! Hope you and the family are doing well! 👍

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey! We're all good here...boys are growing up soooo fast. Hope all is well with you! Thanks for watching kzbin.info/www/bejne/fqLbc2d7qcpkbas

[@HikerBiker]

Good video, I was having a problem with my 2018 Transit van going dead over setting a few days so I went through this procedure. Found out that it was considered normal. What was happening was every time I opened the cab door the whole system would power up and would stay powered for 20-30 minutes. Since i was in and out of the vehicle multiple times over multiple days without driving it the battery would go dead. Far as I'm concerned its a piss poor design by Ford as there is no way to reprogram the computer to shorten the time delay for powering down the system.

[@Stambo59]

Been wrenching on cars for many years, I have always had a knack for electrical and diagnostics and this is one of the methods in my arsenal. One of the others is an infrared thermometer, but much like the multimeter you have to interact with every fuse until you find the right one. I have often wondered whether a good thermal camera would work as well. They can apparently be adjusted to measure a very narrow temperature difference which would seem to be what you would need in these situations. PS: Here in New Zealand we have a periodic safety inspection. Having an operable drivers seat adjuster is part of that so believe it or not, removing the fuse would cause a failure of the inspection. :-)

[@scientist100]

That is absurd, this feature is a commodity and in no way a danger to public safety if non functional. I never adjust my seat once I set it right.

[@Stambo59]

@@scientist100 I have to disagree, being able to adjust a seat to the correct driving position for your size can certainly affect safety. Imagine someone that's 5ft 6 driving a car after a 6 foot plus driver. There are many families where husband is way taller than wife. Your answer does not live up to your name. :-)

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey guys, thanks for watching! I haven't had any luck with thermal cameras in finding warm fuses, but it does work for finding stuck motors. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@scientist100]

@@Stambo59 lol, that's not public safety if you cant fit in a car, you won't be able to drive the car so... like I said, that would be an inconvenience not being able to drive you car but I can see what you mean with shared cars being an inconvenience.

[@Stambo59]

@@scientist100 For someone who has scientist as your user name you seem to have little grasp on reality. Just because someone cannot comfortably sit in a car does not mean they will not drive it. They will sit on the front edge of the seat and drive it UNSAFELY. Risking not only themselves but every other person concurrently driving, cycling, walking around them.

[@franklaprocina8974]

Good to see you back, hope to see more video's 👌✌️

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Frank, good to be back. There's more to come :) Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@darrenflounders2803]

Nice to see you back

[@GoTechTraining]

Thanks Darren! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@michaelpiecewicz9748]

Thanks Mike for another great video

[@GoTechTraining]

Thanks for watching Michael! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@donmiller61]

Very nice video. Have you bought a digital clamp yet (which makes amp readings on a battery cable super simple)?

[@jimhaines8370]

Glad to see more from Mike, how are the long term runners going after the engine replacements the VW and V6 3.6 GM. The other thing is those fuse’s are not cheap either. Thanks again. P/S just had an explorer seat module that only had partial function and it had been discontinued years ago for an 2007 Ford so there you go

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Jim, thanks for watching! As far as I know both the VW and 3.6L are doing ok. I don't own them anymore. 2007 doesn't seem that old...but i guess it is 15 years old. Sucks to hear its discontinued though. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@Greg-fs8np]

Very helpful video with clear explanations that provides the viewer with a good, basic understanding of the process. Thank you.

[@javanrg2]

I’m 😊p

[@javanrg2]

Ipooo apenas😅

[@weemanling]

Maybe I'm slightly confused but wouldn't you expect to see voltage at the fuse considering its on a hot at all times circuit (as shown by the diagram). Additionally what would be the most likely cause in the seat? A short to ground?

[@JohnbillySapulai]

L❤❤❤

[@michaelsparks4385]

A very good video, especially explaining voltage drop measured at the fuse, caused the load from a circuit being 'on'. Another neat way to detect a draw is a thermal imaging camera, which I know isn't economical for most, but for professionals in the business, it's quite a time saver. Keep up the great videos.

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Michael, thanks for watching! I haven't had luck with my thermal imagers finding a draw. It can find a motor stuck or something like that but i've never been able to see a fuse getting warm or anything. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@michaelsparks4385]

@@GoTechTrainingI work at a Ford/Lincoln dealer, so we've seen many draws over the years, especially intermittent ones which are clearly a pain to disgnose. Once we verify the draw by measuring the current, as you did, we sometimes use the thermal imaging camera, not on the fuses, but more the related circuits fed by the fuse. Like the seat module on the Corvette, it could be a switch being stuck, a motor on the track, a heated seat function, etc. Our heated/cooled seat modules, usually under the passenger seat cushions are know for overheating at the electrical connector which in turn melts and damages the module and it's connector. It's a great tool to use when the vehicle is at a cooled down state of ambient temp, as any load still powered on, will have a higher heat signature. Where are you based out of?

[@GoTechTraining]

I used it on stuck wiper motor once, worked pretty slick! We are based in Fond Du Lac Wisconsin. You? Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@michaelsparks4385]

@@GoTechTraining Maple Shade, N.J.

[@scientist100]

I diagnosed a draw similar to this but I believe mine was a 2005. The power seat would stay actuated for the lumber and eventually stop. I believe the switch malfunctioned in the actuated position if I recall this right.

[@GoTechTraining]

Ahhhh that could be what happened on this one. I haven't gone any further with is since pulling the fuse. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@DEADLOK69]

I just had a call from the dealership because I got a 2013 Dodge Durango. I recently changed the alternator and the PCM. I thought that it was the end. But the battery just died. It was last month when I took the Durango. Just as I was about to negotiate for a replacement as trade in, the Service supervisor found the Parasitic draw. He told me that the Durango did not had a feature: A component that heats up the seats. He found that a fuse was found inserted for the heated seat feature in which the vehicle did not have. So far, the Durango is running normally since yesterday. And there was no drain on the battery. Right now I will give it time to test out whether the battery will keep the charge or it will drain again. If a feature is not on that vehicle, then there should not be a fuse for it.

[@margaritovelazquez1815]

It’s an excellent video but I’d like to know if it only happens with fuses or it can happen with relays too? If so, I’d like to watch a video Btw I’m not a professional mechanic Thanks!

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Margarito, thanks for watching! So a relay will be powered through a fuse. A relay acts as a switch or control device in the circuit but that still requires protection, that's where the fuse comes in. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@margaritovelazquez1815]

@@GoTechTraining thank you so much!

[@zlvirag]

great info...., thanks-very clearly presented...

[@tedlahm5740]

Do most all newer cars have BATTERY SAVER technology where the battery drain is turned off if EXCESS draw ( parking lights etc) is ACCIDENTALLY left on?

[@davidharris3403]

Great video Mike, When you gonna do some more how to read wiring diagram videos. Hope all is well.

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey David, thanks for watching! I'll work on some more of those! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@mfitzpatrick1617]

Do you need to reconnect the negative terminal before checking each fuse with leads? Or do you need to keep negative disconnected while doing this?

[@TyroneMaye]

glad i found your video upon this tpoic and issue. my 07 q7 with 3.6l keeps mysteriously doing this and i can't figure out the reason why whats causing this problem...hope to learn how to track down this issue and correct it. question could the rear wiper be cause for this on a suv vehicle ?

[@GoTechTraining]

Hello, Yes, rear wipers that will not park are common to cause a battery drain. ~Ryan

[@TyroneMaye]

@@GoTechTraining Now i have new battery that is in vehicle now. I disconnected the power so it does not drain battery. I am wondering whether once the battery has been properly coded to the vehicle PCM ...would that then cause or allow battery to begin re-awakening any and all components which it had begun shutting down, in an attempt to have enough power to start vehicle? When i bought Q7 previous owner had let battery in it get deficiently very very very very very low. My hope and theory now has become this: once new camshaft sensor goes back in and i am able to obtain compression readings of all 6 cylinders i want to check my fuel pump itself to determine whether its clogged whether the filter in it needs replacing...and check the fuel filter relay along with bank 2 fuel rail pressure sensor intermittent (G247) reinstall new plugs the coil sticks connect those...and try to start vehicle. If you were close i would pay you to tell me whether it has jumped time or not. in that case i would be simply on hunt for engine get it swapped fluid in it drive her like its 1999 😁because my theory is i think it was not ever getting any fuel possibly...

[@mikeburton1733]

Great to see you back Mike. Great explanation and I use this method quite often. Also I was wondering, who drives their vette during a Wisconsin winter?? Stay safe and healthy Mike.

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey hey Mike! Hope all is well up there. We're all good here. Not gonna lie, I shot this video quite a while ago ;) Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@bobomomo3764]

Do u guys use thermal imaging sometimes, to diagnose some problems for example: - Which cylinder has a misfire or which coil isn't working - parasitic draw - leaks (tire, coolant, vacuum leak...)

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Bobo, Yes, we use one for all of the above. I really like using it for brake issues, to see if one brake is sticking on, or not coming on. Thanks for the question! ~Ryan Wilsing

[@joel2109]

Great to the point video! Thanks.

[@markcrume]

Nice job, thanks.

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Mark, thanks for watching! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@GregoryBirulkin]

Nice Corvette, Ford in 1984 said in their training manuals; 3 tenths of an amp is acceptable, up to 5 tenths if it has a message center. Why the 50 milliamp rule today? If you Google parasitic draw you will find some that agree with you and you will find some that will agree with 250 milliamp draw which is acceptable. I Suppose you could go by Amper hours of the battery divided by amperage draw to get the hour rating of acceptable discharge. Thank you for the videos. It's nice to see you. How come your Corvette isn't wearing a mask? LOL

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Gregory, thanks for watching! I've always heard 50 mA is the spec, its what i've always gone with. Anytime i've seen anything over that the customer has complained of battery drain issues. Maybe the batteries in 1984 were larger with a much higher reserve capacity? Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@terryharvey4811]

I'm sure a-ll of us old school MECHANICS/NEW SCHOOL TECHS watch all of the parasitic draw videos out there. -Nothing harder to find or more dreaded to do. Rate it right up their with blown fuses and shorted wires. Usually a lot of time involved, so we're always looking for a magical way to find them. You've presented the procedure I use, but unfortunately it still involves WORK and EFFORT. NO MAGIC INVOLVED !!!! Some day when I'm rich, I'd like to add an infrared camera to my tool box...Maybe that'd be the MAGIC testing solution. Might add in the polarity of your meter hook up at the battery. -I can never remember that, but my meters read either pos or neg so it covers my dummyass. Just one less thing to clutter up my crowded or clouded memory....THANKS.........

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Terry, thanks for watching! Yes, some draws are IMPOSSIBLE to find it seems. Ugh they can be the worst! So I had a 2ish amp draw one time, used a thermal imager on the fuse box...no luck on seeing the fuse that had current flowing through it...but it did see the hot wiper motor through the panel in the rear hatch. I'm not sure a parasitic draw is a justification enough to buy an infrared or thermal imaging tool. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@terryharvey4811]

@@GoTechTraining My thought as well on the camera, a bit pricey just for draws, but it is useful on other things as well. We both know it's nice to have another tool as backup in case one tool doesn't work. Just check out your box, do we really need all those sockets and wrenches ???? HELLO YES, special shapes, sizes, and applications fill our tool boxes to overflowing. We need all the weapons we can get when we attack the expanding problems and tight fits that OEMs keep adding to their products. When I started in 69, I could fix cars out of a lunch box sized tool box...One other note you might mention is the conversion chart for fuse volts to amps. It sometimes helps you see if the fuse draw gets you under 50 ma or if you've got more issues before pulling the fuse and having to wait for sleep mode again. If it gets you under 50 ma, then pull the fuse to confirm your math. Sorry I'm so long winded, but I'm trying to put off doing a water pump on a Tahoe.

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Terry, yes, more and more and more tools. But the tools pay us back over their use for sure. I should have mentioned the charts, they are great! Now go get that gravy water pump done ;) Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

Excellent explanation!

[@MUHAMMADKHAN-pe7ez]

battery is good tested by battery tester. drain is within the specification. but battery voltage goes down enough not able to start the car next day, any solution????

[@TomKret]

Well done!

[@adamwhitt9349]

Once you figure out which fuse it is, then it's just a wiring problem to whatever the fuse powers?

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Adam, could be a fuse, could be the component powered up through the fuse. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@404notfound.....]

@@GoTechTraining Go to all data and see what's powered on that circuit that goes to that fuse. Measure the resistance at that circuit and you'll have your answer.

[@lloyd-qt1mg]

Mike, what about an intermittent draw (wiper motor), that you miss with your test, as it's not pulling current at the exact time that you test it's fuse?

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Lloyd, great question. In that case you would want to measure the current draw with either a meter in series or a labscope with a current clamp. ~Mike

[@lloyd-qt1mg]

@@GoTechTraining Gee, never expected a at all! Thanks so much. Here's a link that might help some 'newbies (like me) understand your rvery succint reply. Enjoy. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bKmpoJKlfat5apo

[@frankreye1408]

Bless you brother. You doing nice job.

[@1945temo]

I got a truck and soon after the battery had to be recharged till eventually had to be replaced. I realized that the radio had all kinds of bull and stuff and multi-lights so I took it off and problem solved. I will get me a normal radio I can turn on and off and that I know it will help.

[@waleyefish9026]

Great time saver.👍

[@GoTechTraining]

Thanks for watching! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@kc360awareness]

Welcome back!

[@GoTechTraining]

Thanks Kevin! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@James-fs4rn]

👍 very good stuff and helpful!

[@GoTechTraining]

Hi James, Thanks for watching! Glad it was helpful. Ryan W, Technical Instructor

[@nextjob4229]

Thanks bro for wonderful video, very informative

[@HotRod-wv4vm]

Thanks I don’t remember getting this notification

[@GoTechTraining]

Better late than never! Thanks for watching Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@deniskallcaku6164]

Hi, I have drain of power from a fuse and it is 1.2A. The fuse is for 4 Devices. Gateway, steering wheel lock, injection switch and light switch. I tried to remove all the connectots of the components one by one to see if the drow of power and only when i remove the connector of Gateway the drowning is 0A. It looks like the Gateway stays always ON. Can you please help me for this case? I will appreciate your help

[@nilolee2426]

So the test diagram setting for the current ; disconnect the negative cable from the battery then take one lead of the meter to ground cable and other lead is on negative post of the battery? Is this correct?

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Nilo, that is correct. You want the multimeter set to amps and you want to place it into the circuit so any current flowing out of the battery if forced through the meter. ~Mike

[@sandersisiah]

Amazing video.

[@GoTechTraining]

Thanks!

[@StarsAutoSport]

Great content! Thanks for the info.

[@GoTechTraining]

Thanks for watching! ~Mike

[@joetaylor1459]

Thankyou for a very informative video..

[@evaldas266]

i have a question : so when you test fuses inside (i have one multimiter) you need to have your + and - on the battery or only + and then chech fuses V.. inside to see which drains..

[@john9663]

Does this test really "confirm" a bad driver module as the true cause? Does this test rule out the possibility of a bad ground, a bad connector, etc., creating the draw, or the possibility of anything else other than the module? Just curious.

[@GoTechTraining]

Hi John, Good question! A faulty ground or connector will cause a high resistance or open in the circuit and actually cause the circuit to not work properly. This would cause the circuit to draw less amperage or no amperage due to electricity not being able to flow. I hope this answers your question, thanks for reaching out! ~Ryan

[@john9663]

@@GoTechTraining Perfect. Thanks for the clarification.

[@TyroneMaye]

in most instances with this upon locating the culprit fuse, is rule of thumb to check wiring diagram upon the fuse causing issue looking at the wiring if it has open exposed portion of its wiring which could be what is the cause that is draining the battery when the fuse should be at rest without any current electrical flow going through it ? or are there any situations where your just replacing the fuse or thats wrong thing to do by installing just a new fuse ?

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Tyrone, Good question, This test only narrows down which circuit the drain is on, The fuse itself can not cause an unwanted battery drain. The two instances where the fuse would be an issue, is if it was blown or if it was causing a resistance to current flow. A blown fuse would cause no current to flow and a fuse causing high resistance would cause a higher than normal voltage drop, but would not cause the battery to go dead while the car was not running. I hope this helps! Thanks for reaching out ~Ryan

[@TyroneMaye]

@@GoTechTraining oh alright so in applying your testing method I have only the harbor freight cen tech 7 fucntion multimeter for use to perform that parasitic draw test you spoke on in video. I appreciate you responding to me in light of this now i need to locate rear wiper fuse and remove it. Now how do i check the rear wiper motor to determine whether it is functioning properly or its defective and needs replacing which would cure the issue there? Thank you for responding giving me a few moments of your time.

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Tyrone, If you remove the wiper fuse and your draw is gone or battery stops draining. Make sure the wiper is parking all the way after shutting it off. There usually isn't any serviceable components in the wiper so if it doesn't park or is causing the draw replacement may be your best option.

[@TyroneMaye]

@@GoTechTraining To be clear here what you are telling me is if the rear wiper switch attached from the steering wheel of my 2007 Audi Q7 isn't parking the wiper blade so its remaining at full rest (without re-activating itself to wipe the rear window), I am to replace what : [A] the switch mechanism from steering wheel or [B] replace the rear window wiper motor itself ? And thank you for giving me a bit of your time an for sharing your mechanic knowledge with me a novice seeking to learn so I am able to fix and repair my own vehicles.

[@kidicarus2637]

thanks for the excellent instructional!

[@enockmakhathini]

I have got a problem on my 1989 Toyota Cressida, I performed the test as per the procedure and removed fuses one by one but the reading on my multimeter did not drop as it stayed on 12.45 ma. When I checked on the positive terminal of the battery I found that the thick white and red stripe wiring was connected directly to the positive battery terminal. I removed it and the voltage dropped to 0.03 ma.My problem is that I am wondering where must this wiring be connected then.

[@shmiggityshmoe2229]

How does this work on a diesel with 2 batteries? Do you leave one battery with both pos and neg cables hooked to the battery, or both batteries with the pos connected and the negetives disconnected?

[@SamuraiWarrior-iq2kl]

My issue with my 2001 Impala ls is everything is off in the car BUT battery drains and i have to disconnect because my Gear indicator starts on as if my car isnt going on Park even tho its on park. How can i fix this?

[@PaulCTownsend]

Great info thank you.

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Paul, thanks for watching! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@alexanderstefanxandraswedi5835]

Good job sharing

[@GoTechTraining]

Thanks for watching Alexander! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@MoHntr]

Great video. Thank you

[@kenk3102]

...thanks Mike for another great explanation for DIY......would a dc amp clamp around a battery lead work just as well as an ammeter in series to show parasitic draw?...would be a lot easier and you wouldn't have to worry about maybe blowing a fuse in the ammeter... :)

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Ken, thanks for watching! Sure an amp clamp would work as long as its accurate enough. Something that's only accurate down to 50 milliamps won't do you any good here if you're nit picking a draw. I like to use my 30A PICO clamp that's accurate down to 2 milliamps but that paired with a scope is a pricy unit for sure. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@paulsmith9341]

Thank you, Mike!

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Paul. thanks!!! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@daniellekelly4376]

I have a gmc canon the alternate is new the battery is 15 months old and I have taken both cables of reconnect to the battery would not star tryed with a jump box noufing happened don't know were to look

[@tedlahm5740]

No voltage drop ( at the fuse) means no current flowing in a series circuit.

[@uelerwin367]

I am having trouble getting a good circuit diagram for my car

[@rolandbrooks386]

With ecu fuse disconnected, I am getting a 25 ma draw; with ecu fuse connected, reading is the same at 25ma Is this normal? Thanks much!!

[@danhepburn5120]

Thank you

[@IvandreyDekock]

Hi mike i also siting with my Audi A4 draining batri after i take a drive whit in 10 minuts my batri is drained😅

[@erickc5185]

Thanks!

[@GoTechTraining]

Hey Erick, thank you so much!! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor

[@GoTechTraining]

Thanks Erick! Ryan Wilsing, Technical Instructor

[@ΕυθύμιοςΒουτουρής]

Honda civic fn2. my multimeter shows 00.1- 00.2 is it good?

[@sara78130]

Hi all Fuse should be 0?

[@rebwarauto-technician2728]

great video, thank youy

[@ItsEverythingElse]

Anyone ever see an intermittent parasitic draw? My new battery is dying overnight but the shop was measuring 10mA of parasitic draw. I'm going to do some probing around tomorrow.