I tried FDM Printing Warhammer 40k Tanks on Bambulabs A1

[@TvBvM]

you need the 0,2 Hot End. print at 0,08 mm or 0,06 mm will improve everything so much! As settings you take the presets not from Bambu Labs, but the calibrated filament, then the Fat Dragon Profile, and you are good to go

[@JulesHatton]

I don't do minatures, but I've got to agree the 0.2 @ 0.08 + Fat Dragon Games print profile is the way to go... don't forget it needs Sunlu PLA Meta (preferably Grey). Another thing you can do is orientate the print at a different angle to optimise where the layer lines go, I've had experienced FDM guys confuse my prints with resin lol.

[@honda1st1]

Checked. Thanks brother

[@pedrojustice]

You mean 0.2mm nozzle, right?

[@SkullMutant]

​@@pedrojusticethe nozzle is bought with the hotend. It's the same thing for the A1

[@badgerwijohnson4081]

Ordered my 0.2mm print head last night.

[@chrisl4999]

I own about 50,000 points of real warhammer models. Last year I bought a P1S. This week I decided to print a custodes army. I’ve used both a 0.4 and a 0.2 nozzle depending on the specific model. a 2,000 point army will end up costing me about $20 in filament. The imperfections are absolutely acceptable at that price point.

[@hfw3]

I am looking at printing a custodes army and I just got a Bambu P1S for the holidays. Are you willing to share links to your STLs and the configuration settings?

[@petrinafilip96]

Yeah I spent a couple of grand on legit models over 5 years. decided to get a 3d printer for custom bits as I got into heresy (since most armies are marines, I want each army to be unique)...I'm printing whole armies in resin now.

[@Freakgoho]

​@@hfw3 hey. :) did you get files? Im also intrested

[@karlsmith4341]

I like going with a hybrid approach. Print the main hull on FDM and the accessories/accent pieces with resin. The goal is anything the eyes focus on is resin and the things primarily occupying space are FDM. Then make sure you paint it in such a way that you draw attention to the resin parts. I also like doing this with large monster models where I will do the body and sometimes legs FDM, then the heads, arms, weapons, etc. resin.

[@TimmSchn]

I printed about 3kg of terrain and even some FDM optimized Miniatures with the .2mm Nozzle. Using the A1 with AMS and the A1 mini

[@battlebrothersam]

Excellent brother! Any clogs or issues?

[@TimmSchn]

@battlebrothersam none so far. I absolutely recommend the .2mm nozzle, prints take a lot longer, but look really good. But printing stuff Not optimized for FDM, with either of the nozzles is always a gamble. To me, FDM shines in Terrain and also blank bases. When printed upside down, the texture of the build plate creates a great surface, indistinguishable from injection molded bases.

[@robclarke1098]

I love my A1. I have just finished my full suit of Primaris armour (including motorised chainsword) and it has been quite the learning curve (and over 30kg of filament). FDM printing does have its downsides, but compared to the pain in the arse of dealing with resins, its an absolute pleasure just to tell the A1 printer to print something and leave it to do its thing.

[@Jokreher]

From first hand viewing, the Bambu ecosystem is very well situated for plug & play simplicity. There are some detail issues compared to resin, but there are less environmental concerns. So trade-off abound, but you gotta pick the fights you want to have.

[@battlebrothersam]

Very true brother, I will admit I have firmly been in the resin camp for 3 years now but I have used this a1 more than the 2 resin printers in the last 3 weeks easily. I want to print smaller, then much much bigger

[@craigjones7343]

A very good point. I don’t have a proper venting set up for my resin printer yet so I only print in the warm months when I can open the windows. When it’s winter the windows stay shut and that smell hangs around forever

[@AlexDenton0451]

The Environmental stuff surrounding Resin has definitely made me want to eventually switch over to FDM. I'm hoping in the future Bambu gets even closer to resin quality, so I can dump it entirely for wargames.

[@stingray4567]

My Tip: if you are able, print in FDM AND resin i.e. print the body in FDM and print any details/focal points (turrets, heads, guns, maybe tracks etc) in resin.

[@simonbuie6190]

Orientation is the most important thing. Any low angle that isn't completely flat will have the "stair stepping" style layer lines, so getting rid of as many of those as you can will help dramatically. Printing the turret vertically (cannon pointing up) will definitely help. Flipping the main hull (without the tracks attached) on it's side will probably help as well. Significantly fewer "stair stepping" style layer lines on each part, and fewer supports to remove. The turret cannon will also benefit greatly as cylinders are always best when vertical. Should also help with the exhausts as well since the stepping will be on the sides of them and not the top.

[@bww33]

I typically FDM print the big parts of a tank or vehicle, and then the smaller parts or accessories in Resin. Mixing the two methods works out really well. A lot of models are covered in extra armor and bits that help cover the fdm printed hull, and helps to hide the layer lines.

[@adama1294]

I am outstanded by the amount of money Bamboo Labs is throwing around. Every channel that makes things is touting the Bamboo labs.

[@blanchsb]

A few tips based on my several months printing on an A1 (I'm still in love with the thing). 1. Orientation is key. Orient parts to minimize the effects of layer lines. 2. Use the 0.2 nozzle on parts that you have concerns on layer lines with and use the higher quality profile settings. 3. (advanced user tip) Look into texturing your prints to help eliminate layer lines. Fuzzy skin is default but you can have 3D apps like blender and texture your models with some custom textures. 4. As far as supports go, sometimes I use the snug supports and manually place them, they are great in some areas. 5. Also, you can further slice and dice the models with booleans so that you have "plates" that print flat on the bed and can glue them back into place on the back sides. (Or use blender to boolean further and re-export).

[@battlebrothersam]

Thanks for the tips brother!

[@NicholasTurnerOZ]

As I have an A1 and I am just getting into printing, the difference between the 0.4 end that comes with the printer and the 0.2 you can buy separately (for like $12 or something crazy cheap) is REALLY noticeable. All my layer lines pretty much went away when I switched to the 0.2. The trade off is speed, you want a model printed quicker? Go 0.4 and accept layer lines, if you aren’t in a rush, go 0.2 and accept the longer print time. In regards to fixing layer lines, I have seen everything from an acetone rubbed on to melt them down, to filler that’s just sanded back, or the clear UV resin you can get with a little torch for water effects, smear that on and hit it with the UV light. Or you go for camouflage netting and battle damage effects to disguise or cover the lines. I was intending to print terrain in the 0.4, but honestly, you switch to the 0.2 and you really struggle to see which parts are real and which are printed. Especially on doors/bulkheads/columns/walls for necromunda. And when you compare the recent sale price of the A1 to a box of terrain/vehicle, you start to see real value once you have printed half a dozen vehicles. The other bonus of FDM (and why I got it over resin) is that it’s not a toxic chemical, it doesn’t need to be kept away from sunlight, no nasty vapours, and no wash and cure process after printing. The lack of toxic chemical waste and all the gloves and so on that need to be disposed of is also a massive bonus. I wouldn’t say the A1 is the best in market, but a cheap easy to use system for luddites like me to get going with, it absolutely is. And the bigger the build plate the better, the A1 mini is small and cheap, but pay the extra bucks upfront and you will save time later by not having to split prints over extra plates.

[@rhvette]

Filler primer. It’s designed to fill minor imperfections, originally for auto body repair. As an added bonus, it’s usually a smidge more aggressive an etchant, so it adheres to plastic really well, even stuff that doesn’t normally like to stick to things. Just go light and slow because if you go ham, it will gladly fill in all the lovely detail alongside the layer lines.

[@battlebrothersam]

Will it be ok for the large flat pieces on the hull of the tank? Also by going light do you mean to hold it further back when spraying and just do short bursts?

[@battlebrothersam]

Also thanks for the tip!

[@rhvette]

@ should be fine for large flat areas, just be aware that really small details like those rivets on the side sections will be sensitive to getting buried under too much primer. It applies like any other rattle can primer, so same technique applies there, 12-18 inches (30-45cm), start spraying off to the side and then sweep smoothly and continuously over the part to get even coverage. Biggest thing is just remember what Duncan says, Two Thin Coats. Better to go light, let it dry, and touch it up with a second or third coat, than to flood the print and bury it.

[@rhvette]

@@battlebrothersam KZbin mobile ate your username on my reply comment, so just letting you know I replied with more details.

[@col.hertford9855]

I was hoping to see this comment, it makes a massive difference.

[@WoodyHaroo]

The methods for layer lines I’ve tried are, sanding, scraping, acrylic paste, soldering iron, uv resin (the 3d printing kind). And I mix al of them depending on the model. But I’ve landed in acceptance and a hybrid FDM/resin approach

[@calebjtv]

My tip for layer line removal with FDM printers is I mainly use the FDM printer for terrain so I don't mind visible layer lines as much on what I print. However a good way of getting around layer lines on my FDM prints is to prime them with an automotive spray can primer that has a filler included, and then sanding down the parts of the model that have the most prominent layer lines. You will lose some detail yes but the filler really helps with the layer lines

[@battlebrothersam]

Do you think for the large flat surfaces on this tank the filler spray would be ok?

[@battlebrothersam]

Thanks for the tip brother!

[@braydinmiller1343]

Ive seen a lot of people say just to use the 0.2 mm nozzle which is all fine and good if youre ok with a print time of like 30-40 hours. Honestly a solution i find works well is just sanding by hand, using a bit of water. Things like nail buffers can be good for small areas. Also avoid using things like contrast paints that might highlight layer lines. Traditional layer painting and manual highlights are a very good idea especially when working with a print like this. Best of luck brother!!!

[@J0nny_]

Try printing using the .2mm nozzle at 0.06mm layer height. Practically eliminates the layer lines, leaving only minor misalignment issues

[@benares180]

.2 nozzle. Upload to resin slicer. Slice with those lovely resin supports. Save. Upload to Bambu slicer. Print. Success. Sometimes. It’s too thin or too detailed that are issues. You can mess with settings or cut in pieces. I’ve printed a bunch of big and small tyranids and all but one small boy came out amazing.

[@nanoid314]

Hybrid approach seconded! For some models I use the plane cut tool to cut off the top few millimeters and print that in resin, then all the structural things on the FDM. Also, with things like the tracks, I use the plane cut tool to slice them down the middle, then print them sliced side down. This ensures that a perfectly flat, featureless face is on the plate.

[@goalie40404040]

I print giant mechs often. Using support for PLA material has greatly improved all my models and support removal. Overhangs and fine details all there. You can also use PETG as the interface to same results. I have only used the pla support material. And the .02 nozzle is the way to go for fine details and layer line removal.

[@gameboyterrorysta6307]

For printing miniatures, I use 0.2mm nozzle, lowest layer height I can reliably get to print and models optimised for FDM. With optimising models it's important to have surfaces aligned in a way that minimises layer lines and reduces required supports. For connecting parts together, I like to add simple "puzzle" like snap connectors, so I don't run into risk of missaligning parts during assembly. I also usually print barells and mantlets separately from hull/turret, so they can be pointed upwards, therefore achieving close to perfect round shape and don't suffer from overhang issues at the bottom surfaces.

[@broncofun5636]

I just got those STLs and the Bambu A1 mini to print them with. I think you definitely need to rebuild the model for a fdm print, can’t just go with slicer auto supports. You need the 2mm nozzle (currently sold out) and the Sunlu meta filament to get resin like results.

[@battlebrothersam]

Thanks brother! I'll whack the 0.2mm nozzle on and try printing it again, I can try and get sunlu meta aswell, do you think breaking the model up like the space marine tank is better?

[@turtlecheese8]

@@battlebrothersam As someone who printed with both .4 and .2, .2 is the way to go as is Sunlu Meta. I've printed whole models like Space Marines and the same one in parts, the parts provide slightly better results but even printed whole it's 9/10 quality. For a tank, it would probably do the same, I'm about to try it. Check out Propane Prod for support settings and Fat Dragon Games for printer settings. It might be overkill for vehicles though but it depends on your needs and goals. I'd say the A1 minis is 90% resin quality with 10% of the work.

[@andimba5902]

@@battlebrothersam i heard about 0.1mm nozzles to be on the same quality level then resin, but then its realy on the same level

[@blackhand9581]

@@battlebrothersam Counterpoint! ;o 0.4mm nozzle for tanks is fine! Just lower the layer height down to 0.08mm! There are FDM friendly tanks (tanks that are already chopped up and doesn't require supports) in Makerworld (free) and Cults3d (sometimes costs money), too! I printed a Fellbade in 0.4mm and it was just 👌 0.4mm for infantry? Could work but 0.2mm is just going to be better at the tinier details.

[@Bizm4rk]

How the plates are prepared impacts FDM printing a lot. Large flat surface can be printed on a glass bed for a near perfect smooth finish. This mean keeping outer layers dis-assembled and printed flat on the bed, then later glued together, results in the glass-smooth finish, or at least a surface that can be quickly sanded in seconds with 1000-3000 grit sand paper. It's a LOT of effort to prepare models like this though. The second part is that almost every FDM printer uses a z-screw (or multiple) for the z-axis, and a brass-insert on the bed to traverse it. This threaded brass inserts wears unevenly and results in z--axis drift. Over time you can also wear the z-screw, and you'll see on older printers that the first few CM of a print appear "jagged" then the quality improves once the worn part is passed - the reason being most prints aren't that tall, and constant levelling and calibration tests means MUCH more wear on the lower-layers. Premium FDM printers are starting to use a bearing system that doesn't wear anywhere near as much or as noticeably, but the cost is significant.

[@quintensteffens1942]

Spray with filler primer before painting Ironing only works on surfaces that are fully horizontal so it will not eliminate stair stepping

[@Gryfang451]

Before moving to a 0.2mm hotend, go to your Quality settings and change the order of your perimeter walls to outside/inside or inside/outside/inside. They default to inside/outside. Also lower the outside perimeter wall speed to 60. These two things should give you the best finish possible. As far as finishes on an angled surface, I've tried a lot, and the best thing I've found is to angle the object and turn the top into a side. The variable layer height option helps, but it can also cause its own problems.

[@Taematoe]

I can confirm printing with the turret barrel facing up you get less visible layer lines on the large flat surfaces. Then enable ironing to get smooth tops.

[@DobbsyLondon]

Layer line tips, you can use bondo and sand it with a high wet grit...also primer hides most rough surface finishes and lets paint bond better (multiple thin lrimer coats).. Re: pei texture inside the track mounts, a rougher surface actually promotes better adhesion when you glue parts together, so win-win kind of.....

[@Zacknafin]

I use the 0.4 nozzle and 0.8 layer height and then just hand sand with 1000 grit wet sand from harbor freight on the flat spots of vehicles. Its not perfect but it makes the lines less visible at 3-4 feet away. The other option I played with is thin layer of resin then cure it with a light for the flat spots. its not ideal but does give you a nice flat spot with out sanding.

[@schemage2210]

Respectfully, the Bambulabs A1 Mini is such well trodden ground, proving itself to be such a fantastic printer by this point with countless videos on it, that I find it curious that you didn't already know about the 0.2mm nozzle that reportedly (by almost every creator that I have seen make a video on the A1 Mini) solves the issues you speak of!!!

[@battlebrothersam]

I genuinely thought for a tank the difference would be negligible but with the amount of comments about using a 0.2mm nozzle I will 100% be changing it over today and recording my findings!

[@schemage2210]

@@battlebrothersam fair, I look forward to seeing the follow-up video. Because, if anything, it never ceases to amaze me of what these new 3d printers are capable of.

[@christopherdeale4543]

so many camera jumps! Kept my adhd eyes jumping back to the video and off of the other screen I was doing stuff on!

[@battlebrothersam]

is that a good or a bad thing? lol xD

[@christopherdeale4543]

@@battlebrothersam It was most certainly "A Thing"(TM). I did enjoy the breakdown the breakdown of the fdm settings you used and the results. Most videos just assume I know what settings they used...

[@just_a_nurd8008]

I recently finished printing a Warhound titan from bambu A1, and what has helped after assembly is using rustoleum filler spray paint. Smooths it a lot I used .4 nozzle and layer height was .16 because I just did not want to wait that long.

[@XYZdude00]

What you really want is to mix together bondo glazing and spot putty with acetone. You get a thin slurry that will soak into the model between the layer lines. Mix it in a small glass bowl and use a brush to apply it all over the model. Make sure that it doesnt get runny bits. Then hit it with a thin layer of a sand-able primer. From there you can do some wet sanding with 400 grit sand paper on any flat areas, then use a regular primer to start painting. It works every time for me and has given me some really smooth prints that I have used on the game

[@battlebrothersam]

Thanks for the tip! Have you used this concoction on tanks?

[@XYZdude00]

@@battlebrothersam If you count an ork gargant as a tank then yes.

[@MrSirclint]

0.2 nozzle would also help a ton. Thing gets thin enough to essentially remove layer lines and the fine details are crazy

[@calebjtv]

another amazing video sam. Cheers bro, I hope to see more from you this year!!!

[@battlebrothersam]

Thanks brother! You will indeed! :D

[@RoseKindred]

For cleaning up layer lines, aside from a smaller nozzles and smaller layer height, I recommend resin (UV or resin for printer) mixed with some baby powder. Dab it on, UV light it, and sand it off. It doesn't work well on tabletop, but it does for cosplay/helmets/props.

[@channelforadifferentrecome6635]

From what Ive seen and heard you need to take the smallest nozzle and print the model in split up parts with the "fill-in" setting to get the results most people were hoping for. Even the the FDM printers will struggle a lot with round and sloped parts that will inevitably be needed to be sand papered down to a clean finish. Another very important thing people need to know if they are planning on making infantry models for 40k on a cheaper FDM printer that doesn't have a double nozzle like the premium printers is that it will 100% be noticeable to people playing against you. You will have your models side by side with store bought models and people will point it out if you slacked on grinding the lines down. You will basically be "that 3D-printer guy".

[@jtkrupa8262]

Get yourself a 0.2mm nozzle. Yes, it'll take longer to print, but you can get MUCH better detail since the smaller nozzle can get even lower on the layer height and can handle smaller details better.

[@battlebrothersam]

Thanks brother I'm going to try this again with the 0.2mm nozzle!

[@thescourge286]

Doing the same thing here for a few months now, ive got 3 rhino's, 2 razorbacks, 3 landraiders, 3 predator destructors. (Elegoo 4 pro-PLA+ on .04mm nozzle) Yes there's gonna be lines, but honestly when it comes to tanks, FDM is in my opinion one of the best ways to go even though its going to have lines. Same thing with Terrain. Ive made loads of terrain and there are so many ways to cover up the lines. Not so easy with models that you touch often however, but there are tricks to printing in FDM to smooth it all out, personally for me i want fast prints that look good enough, so "smoothing" isn't really on my list but i want to try it just to see how it works. Made my buddy a custodes tank and saved him 150 bucks. The Detail on it is actually dang impressive. Its all in the angle of how you print it, same as resin. Different approaches. Even on the .04 nozzle its still really good. Only the Custodes and Landraider tank are about 24h prints all my others have been significantly less time. Even Printed loads of Bikers with and without marines on them, fantastic detail, and work great for me. However they do have the Mesh lines all on the bottom of them i could cut them and print them differently but they look really well just as is surprisingly. All and all if you want to save some money, get printed tanks. But then again i was in Warhammer store the other day, and 2 warlock Eldar small boxed set are 40 bucks....... so maybe instead of spending a arm and a leg just print your heart out instead XD

[@havocplague]

Not using a 0.2 nozzle for this pretty much disqualifies it as a test of anything but the possibility of 3d printing miniatures. The entire point of the A1 is the ease of use for switching out the hot-end and the superior quality that it allows for.

[@battlebrothersam]

Roger that, I just wanted to see how the stock nozzle could do a tank but your right, I've just swapped in the 0.2mm and it was easy even one handed. Currently starting the 0.2mm tests

[@tolpoyer]

.2 mm nozzle, spray filler primer, and orienting the most important visible flare surfaces to be in contact with the build plate and using a non textured cool super tack plate all help!

[@N-GON-3D]

you could use PETG as an interface layer for your supports as PETG and PLA don't stick together it makes a great interface and peals right off, also you could use variable layer height as opposed to printing everything at the highest detail.

[@joseale2310]

I am supper happy with my a1 mini, but i struggle finding models that are easy to print with it. Terrain is a no brainee, but multipart models like pipermakesstuff are kind of hard to print! I would be very happy to check the models you prlnted there 😊

[@Triggerboy78]

Use PETG as seperator between support and model. Look up some guides to do so. I gives a much smoother surface where the supports connect and are way easier to remove. And obviously use 0.2 nozzle.

[@Grrg]

Automotive filler primer after a little bit of sanding on the worst parts works for things with details like tanks and buildings

[@mrnlce7939]

There is no easy way of getting rid of layer lines without losing detail. You just have to sand, prime, sand, prime, sand, prime, sand, prime, sand, prime, sand, prime, sand, prime,.... until you're happy. High grit sand paper and very thin coats of primer. That's why resin win over all. Yes it's stinky, messy, toxic and takes up a large foot print. But it's better in the long run. Great video. Keep up the good work.

[@darkelement-b8k]

I picked up a P1S before Christmas and have pushed 3 titans through it so far (Warhound, Warmaster, and one leg of Imperator). The warmaster (1.25x scaled up) cost $100 less than my resin warlord, so I can live with the layer lines. I know you can drag a soldering iron across the lines to sorta burn them smooth, but with how much detail these things shoot out it's not a bad tradeoff. Resin will always be the quality king, but taking a break from all the IPA, fumes, curing, and PPE has been pretty nice.

[@RussellWilliams736]

If you are printing just for gaming, I'd do vehicles with the fdm and minis in resin. If you are printing for painting competitions resin all the way.

[@battlebrothersam]

Yeah I can agree with this, I do want to try maybe the 0.2mm nozzle and see if it can get more resin like

[@10125Studios]

0.2 on the BL is still not resin quality, but it's perfectly fine for tabletop.

[@kid332461]

I have found that printing at an angle helps with layer lines! There is no one size fits all angle, but if the model came presupported for resin, I eyeball rhe angle it was at and that has lead to many more successes.

[@jarodiking2559]

recently got my fdm printer, zero regrets. i found that using lightning infills saves alot of money in total. For more structurally important prints i do use normal infill, otherwise i use 5% lightning infill. Also, i dont know if other slicers have this but creality print 6.0 has an auto orient with which you can orient your prints to minimize supports. there is also a auto "make overhangs printable" option which automatically curves overhanges, meaning it doesnt need supports, further reducing need for supports. Overal all this save me HALF the filament and alot of printing time

[@BABYEDDIE123]

Get a 0.2 nozzle position turret in a 90° angle that will help with the top surface in the layer stepping you can use a filler primer but if you take some UV resin internet with IPA 91% and put a thin coat on the model and hit it with a UV light they'll take care of most of the layer lines no problem maybe a little sanding with 1500 grit and you'll be good

[@Riverboat374]

I've seen a number of people saying that switching to the 0.2mm nozzle is necessary for the best quality.

[@bjf10]

It looks like you need to dial in the settings a bit. I see split layers and a lot of coarseness that I don't see with my prusa mk4. Maybe turn up the nozzle temp or try a different filament? I've had the best results with prusament, but elegoo PLA pro is also very good. Overture PLA is noticeably worse in my experience, but still decent (not bad enough to generate print failures, just more gunk to clean up afterwards). With my printer using an 0.4mm nozzle and printing with a 0.15mm layer height on the QUALITY setting in Prusaslicer, I get very smooth results with terrain models that are designed for FDM. Using models that don't require supports helps a TON.

[@bjf10]

I also ran an 0.25mm nozzle for a while, but it clogged up frequently enough that I just went back to the 0.4mm. The improvement in quality was nice, but print failures just bum me out.

[@battlebrothersam]

Yeah I think I will look into what settings to calibrate as I ran everything on stock settings as they came

[@JonCampbellJr]

Try fuzzy skin set at .05 and .05, you may lose some resolution but it helps mask layer lines.

[@cdwood2008101]

Im gonna seem like a mad man since i do terrain with my fdm but i wipe on a thin layer of caulking and brush it smooth with a wet wide paint brush and that removes most if not all the layer lines.

[@gabiballetje]

Even with the higher cost, i'd still go resin, for the models up to tanks and knights etc. For terrain i'd definitely go FDM. However, i think it would be worth your time to see what parts of some models can be done with FDM without clearly seeing it was FDM rather then resin.

[@KarlWalls]

The A1 handles printing very well, you probably didn't need so much support, also unless people are absolutley desperate to get that thing off the printer, I just leave the plate to cool down and because it's textured, it will release the model, you just lift it off, you don't need to use the scraping tool 90% of the time

[@cyberware5323]

Thx, the video helped. Printing a Chos or Imperial Knight-like model with the 0.2 mm nozzle, would be a great showcase. But guess Sam will never recognize this comment. XD

[@battlebrothersam]

👀

[@bradyrigg1426]

Great video brother, ive been waiting to see what you thought of the A1. I've been in film production for 12+ years now,and i have some suggestions if you are interested. I can appreciate you attempting to add some flare with the 2 camera setup; however, you aren't using the cuts effectively. 2+ camera setup is meant to capture action or multiple angles to capture specific information more efficiently. The way you are using it is an aside breaking the 4th wall, which is odd in a talking head video because you are already addressing the audience directly. Ive only seen that type of cut work for John Stewart,and Deadpool. You are currently using it to drive home a point,but a simple push in is much less jarring and simpler. That being said, keep experimenting! Film is fun!

[@battlebrothersam]

Thanks brother! I have no background in filming except for this channel so I wasn't sure how to approach a 2 camera setup except for the 30 degree rule lol I'll keep what you have said in mind

[@tonyoslund5700]

Try using Orca rather than Bambu studio. Orca has a setting for top layer flow ratio that can be used to create a very smooth top surface, instead of ironing. (Primary reason I run Orca rather than Bambu studio) Have found different filaments work better for removing supports. My favorite so far has been ESUN PLA+. Another option is Orca has the option to use PETG for the very top layer of the support interface. Add a second filament in slicer. Under the support tab there are settings under the Filaments for Supports section that will allow you to select PETG for the supports. However need an AMS for multi-material to do PLA with PETG support interface layer. Also, suggest using clear PETG for this purpose.

[@EnlightenedSavage]

Input shaping can make this work way better.

[@connorsarf2970]

Always look for models with separate part files. This is always a better solution. Try to place models vertically, not horizontally. Sometimes it is a good idea to print from the middle layers of the model to the outer ones. Not the other way around. The height of the layers is the most important, followed by the nozzle diameter. For small elements, use a 0.2 mm nozzle. Always print rifle or cannon barrels vertically. Often the best way to print vehicle turrets is to print vertically. Sometimes it is better to print a little slower and longer but have much better print quality. When printing on FDM, you always have to sand a little and add a primer with filler. You can also add a layer of clear varnish first. There is no best solution here. Some will work and some will not.

[@battlebrothersam]

Thanks for all the tips brother! I have screenshotted this to refer back to, Legend!

[@connorsarf2970]

@@battlebrothersam This is just a small part of the adventures with FDM printing. It is a completely different world than resin printing. The number of layers, layer thickness, nozzle diameter, temperature, cooling, speed, angle of the model walls, number of details on the model, type of supports, whether we add a frame or not, maybe we will have to add a raft to support smaller elements. Whether the material is dry or wet, how it is kept in the room, even the color is important for precise settings. There are even graphs with calculations regarding the height of layers and the impact on the quality of slanted surfaces. Sometimes it is better to print elements individually than in groups. This can also have an impact on the quality of the print. This is a huge topic for discussion and exchange of experiences. Good Luck with this Dragon!

[@svengro5019]

To get rid of layer some lines sand the most prominent visible parts down. On harder to reach parts you can use a hobby knive and scape if the layer lines like you would do with mold lines. Just harder. Then spray it with filler spray but don't use too little or the effect will be just minimal and not worth the effort. There is sweet spot between too little and too much. You will lose some minor details but not much. After the filler is dry sand it again until you are happy. I would concentrate on the most visible prominent parts, your eyes won't catch the less prominent layer lines if on first glance on surfaces one would expect layer lines to see, none are to be seen. Its a bit like a sloppy but coherent paintjob, as long as it is convincing from a certain distance you are good.

[@battlebrothersam]

Ah I didn't think about the hobby knife! Excellent tips brother!

[@The3rKo]

A1mini 0.2 nozzle is perfect for vehicles

[@blackhand9581]

There are FDM-friendly tanks in Makerlab and Cults3d! I printed a Fellblade not knowing how much it would actually cost a fellblade. I was utterly speechless when I found out. A single Fellblade is enough to get you a 3d printer.

[@DJBclay]

sand paper, filler primer and or texture past added to the sloped surfaces. Or come up with a lore reason for layer lines.

[@Marconius6]

I've seen some people use acetone to melt and smooth out the surfaces of prints.

[@tomcoker]

I used to have success with smaller nozzles and using watered down platic putty by vallejo. then fine sand it but it took ages to get it smooth. heads up warning

[@euansmith3699]

This is a great looking project. FDM printing Space Marine vehicles (Rhinos and Land Raiders), I printed the tracks side parts of the vehicles with their inside face, face down on the build plate, and the central body printed with its underside flat against the build plate. The turrets were printed separately. I still had issues with shallow angles not printing smoothly. I modelled my own vehicles in Tinkercad and designed them to print support free. How do you go about doing your cutaways to the b-camera in your videos? They are very smooth.

[@battlebrothersam]

Thanks brother! Hahahahah funny you say that, this was the first time doing it and it felt weird as anything and took me longer to do because I kept having brainfarts trying to remember to turn lol I just used 2 cameras and one mic plugged into the main one.

[@euansmith3699]

@@battlebrothersam Do you use the cutaways to cover over fluffing lines? If so, it works very well.

[@nokteur1429]

PLA-CF a bit more expensive but hides layer lines very well

[@andimba5902]

i heard if you put it into a contained box with isop. the fumes make the top layer melt so it looks smoother Iso and sculture should not touch ofcourse

[@battlebrothersam]

Iso alcohol? Like the stuff I'm using to clean resin minis? Do you know how long?

[@andimba5902]

@@battlebrothersam yes Iso alcohol, i heard its for 5 minutes only. Saw it in a different video because i want to start printing myself and i do want to spare me the resin printer

[@andimba5902]

@@battlebrothersam remember only in the same container! no contact between alcohol and sculpture. i would check every 5 Minutes so nothing goes overboard. :) have fun would love to see a video where you tryed it. forgot the original video

[@Durkan34]

Vapour smoothing. It's normally acetone to smooth abs prints. Needs to be the right solvent to match the plastic.

[@andimba5902]

@@battlebrothersam do you have stl files for FDM prints files on your D? Would love to join but only if there are any infos or guides to print them. Thinking about starting some time now but i dont know if i can handle the technic.

[@OneEyed_Jack]

O.2mm nozzle. It's slower, but sooo much finer detail, and it'll still crank out minis faster than I can paint them.

[@battlebrothersam]

Hahaha god it's good to hear that the pile still grows even with fdm lol I think I'll try a tank with the 0.2mm and then do a space marine. Any tips?

[@OneEyed_Jack]

@battlebrothersam I'm still a novice, having had my printer less than a month. Fat Dragon Games has a lot on it, though, and a pretty popular, and much-refined, slicer setup for the A1/A1 mini.

[@fluminox13]

Now I dont have an excuse anymore for not getting a 3d printer. About the layers I heard you could use plastic cement ore some other type of filler to smooth the layers out and later sanding them. Also acid should work, but you need to be careful how long you dip them in acid. I dont have a 3d printer, I just heard of those options.

[@battlebrothersam]

Thanks brother!

[@theonlymann1485]

i want to print a baneblade in fdm lol chonker is awesome

[@battlebrothersam]

Same! Lol I have just done one in resin and was planning on doing it on the a1

[@JaimeSantacruz]

Yo estoy imprimiendo figuras humanas con una K1 Max en filamento Hyper PLA, boquilla 0.4 y altura de capa de 0.08 y la verdad es que distan poco de la impresión en resina. Con altura de capa 0.08 los soportes de árbol quedan muy delgados y se desbaratan, me ha dado buen resultado con los estándar de creality print.

[@battlebrothersam]

Excellent brother!

[@ChitosVids]

0.2mm nozzle and even smaller layers. Details will get way better but will take way longer. You can print minis this way

[@Slurgical_3D_Terrain_Channel]

Greetings, print the gun turret standing up and the body as well, manually place the tree support. Same with the tracks, try to limit top flat surface as much as you can. Some of my terrain files I print them standing up, just make sure there are enough strong support to avoid the object wobble during print. I have a video on my channel you can check might save you some time and set you with some expectations.

[@Strixx23]

I used the P1S to print off the Bheta Decima scenery, came out great. I’ve not attempted figures yet but having done a Lithopane I think it’ll be ok.

[@hughmac7423]

I would like to see the 0.2mm Space Marine printed models. Although I think the layer lines will still make me want to do resin printing.

[@ValkyrieForge1986]

0.2 hot end to start if your printing mini's and stay at the 0.08. use a darker color filament (gray black's dark blau's you get the gist of it ;p)to print because of light reflecting from the model this can help hide some imperfections. watch the oriantation the stacking of layer line's can be reduced when your printing in a 25/45 degree angle this isnt always a option but it can help with some models. you have a copple of options as far as clean up go's 1 you can print in abs and do a vapor smooth or a acetone dip this a a slight loss of details. 2 poly smooth from polymaker uses ipa to mooth out the model but again this can come with some los of details. 3 you can use electric sander like those toothbrush models and use a primer/ miniature filler primer to finish of the model sins you painting them anny way.

[@kevski722]

Good videos as always Sam. Could you please do a tutorial videos on altering copycat 40k miniatures to match those of GW minutes scale size

[@battlebrothersam]

Thanks brother! Do you mean getting proxies to be the same size as Gw equivalent?

[@kevski722]

@@battlebrothersam that’s exactly what I’m after

[@Morg-0110]

Where did you get the tank file from?

[@RoseKindred]

I miss 3D Builder. I had to clean up the comp and now cannot get it again. The tank looks great though, especially for FDM. I'm working on a 'Hawk since they never came out with a plastic kit and the cardboard directions entered the abyss.

[@RickyRickSteevo]

As others have said, the 0.2mm head will give you better fidelity on the finished model. The tricks I use to fix layer lines are these: - remove things like bolts (like you did), so you can easily sand large, flat panels. - split out parts and print them in an optimized orientation (ie. surfaces parallel to print surface). This requires some CAD skills and more assembly, but it's the best way to get rid of layer lines. - prime several coats to fill in some of the layer lines. obviously be careful, but this step works a lot better than you might think. This really only works with vehicles, as they don't have as many fine details.

[@peters.9463]

I am new to 3D printing and bought me a P1S couple of days ago. I want to print terrain and vehicles mainly and some storage solutions. I have heard that it is possible to remove those layer lines from ABS prints with acetone odor. Regarding a Reddit user there is something called XTC 3D that should do the same for PLA. Others say that there are other FDM printer materials which could be cleaned up in such a way. Maybe that would be worth trying?

[@Max-oj9qt]

printed a reaver titan on a ender 3 v1^^ was fun 4 years ago

[@battlebrothersam]

You bloody madman! Did you have any issues?

[@Max-oj9qt]

@@battlebrothersam nope...just adding some supports and go

[@lanesteele240]

I have an A1 on the way.

[@craigchuck4247]

Yea how silly not knowing about that stop printing in a certain area is … by any chance do you have a guide on how to do it ….for a friend 😂 What files did you use for the amd covers ?

[@battlebrothersam]

Lmao I only came across it by chance! When the plate is printing on the app there is a button saying skip beside pause and stop and then it's just a case of matching the part to the list, I included in the screen recording of my phone while I done it lol amd covers? Do you mean the green things? They are high connectors for the lost ships kill team terrain

[@craigchuck4247]

@battlebrothersam Spell check got me , in the video you have some covers on your AMS unit on the spool holders and look like something i could use.

[@Hero1117a]

Where did you get your files?

[@radoslawsocha4955]

Spray putty is fantastic

[@battlebrothersam]

Excellent brother, is there a brand to look for?

[@xRaptorScreamx]

a lot of printers these days can achieve that quality, even for less money

[@battlebrothersam]

Fdm printers? Really? I'm new to the fdm side but I feel like this gave me better details with no tweaking out of the box than other fdm printers I've used but again that was stock settings as well

[@Oreo_cakester]

get tips from cosplay designers, they tend to use a lot of fdm for props and they have some methods to eliminate those lines in the surfaces. Saludos, hermano

[@battlebrothersam]

Gracias hermano

[@Grahamshobbycorner]

FDM printers should be isolated too, not just resin ones. You’re melting plastic - thats VOCs. Benefit of FDM printers is you can print your own enclosures

[@Thoadin]

try a build in profile with .06mm and try with a .2mm nozzle. Or download fat deagon games profile with a .2mm nozzle

[@battlebrothersam]

I think I will brother! Thanks 😁

[@DrVesuvius70]

KZbinr FacilityD20 swears by truck bed liner spray paint for hiding FDM layer lines, but since we don't have the same pickup truck culture here in the UK, the paint he uses is hard to get hold of and stupid expensive. Hi-build automotive primers should have a similar effect and is easier and cheaper here. The other one I've heard of is brushing uv resin over the affected areas and curing it, possibly then sanding it.

[@battlebrothersam]

Thanks brother Doc! Is hi build easy available in the likes of halfords? I do have plans to test uv resin mixed with baby powder? apparently it makes it into an easier to handle paste

[@DrVesuvius70]

@@battlebrothersam It certainly was when a young teenaged Vesuvius had a saturday job there some years ago, I don't see why it shouldn't still be. I've just bought it online from Amazon or eBay at prices comparable to regular spray primer, so it shouldn't be too rare.

[@franksilva3566]

I appreciate your video; informative and helpful - I now Microsoft no longer supports ‘3D Builder’ for Windows 11. I have it on an old laptop w/ Windows 10 and I love it, it helps with my 3D printing projects. If you have anyway of installing ‘3D Builder’ outside of the Microsoft store - I (and others) would greatly appreciate it if you could tell me (us) how! Thanks

[@tek9058]

nozzle size is not that important anymore if you use the arachne wall generator, but tune the values for finer resolution. the biggest issue with fdm are the layer lines. try painiting it... very frustrating. using washes on it is impossible, detail work 10x harder. no such issues on resin. also resin takes like 5hrs to print a big model, fdm days. but resin fumes will kill you. many have crazy liver values. had it too, 30x over normal, doc thought i was poisoned and i always used a professional full face mask with rated filters and nitril gloves, printers in a cupboard with big carbon filters inside...didn't help. the ipa with solved resin is evil, it goes through everything quickly and is absorbed by skin instantly. i rarely print in resin now, despite an extra basement room with a window.

[@20cent]

It's not like we've been doing that before you tried..

[@thunder2434]

As I'm looking into FDM-printing miniatures and I'm considering purchasing a Bamboolabs A1 I find this video very helpful. However, I've heard and seen from other similar videos that the best resin-like print with this printer is with the 0.2 mm nozzle, so why not use it? The nozzle unit is supposedly a very easy snap-fit to replace in just a minute or less. Also I'd use the lowest possible layer height on the machine, is this 0.06 mm? (Unless it's big models like scenery that'd take forever.) My current FDM printer can already do 0.09 mm layer height so any new FDM printer would have to be even finer for me to consider purchasing it. Because of this I'd really like to see the results from that setting and using the finest nozzle. Anyway, thank you for a very good video exploring this topic. Well presented and easy to follow and not too much technical stuff to it just what you did and why. It's pretty great. I do agree printing a complete tank model has its' merits for quickly producing an army to deploy in games. Also most of the really good tank models for 40K and similar are resin-adapted nowdays. Seeing you experiment with these is inspiring because I thought they were basically unprintable on FDM-machines. But they're not.

[@resmores]

fatdragon profile, .2 nozzle will get you to where it is close to 2k resin printing.

[@L480N3R]

How were you able to upload the .obj files into bambu studios? I tried using the maker's cults file directly but I get an error from the bambu studio application stating that the .obj file type isn't supported.

[@battlebrothersam]

I had to use lychee to save the obj files as stl files one by one

[@L480N3R]

@battlebrothersam that's what I was afraid of lol. Thank you very much!