How to FDM Print Knights - Warhammer 40K on Bambu A1 Mini

[@knightsljx]

the hard part isn't printing. it's finding the STL of the actual thing you want instead of some low poly or poorly sculpted proxy

[@FirstLast-wg5rd]

Or horny. Too many horny models out there.

[@Grubengrabgeraet]

And you found it and share it with us all please 😅

[@davidarcherd9868]

Yeah, I would be delighted to have this still and a really great Baneblade. I already own 14 Imperial Knight armigers and 2 Baneblade's. At this point, I'm more than comfortable printing.

[@Mephiston]

honestly its not that hard if you know where to look. There's an app popular with russians that does pretty well.

[@TheDainerss]

@@Grubengrabgeraet unfortunately that is not advised. Apart from Nintendo, GW is one of the most anal companies about copyrights. If you dare post links to STL files, GW will have the model yanked down double quick. Most people who find good models tend to only share privately and not in comments to prevent GW from finding them. So please do not ask them to share where to find them in the comments. And if you found one, also do not post it here.

[@Skullyweb]

Adaptive layer heights would help some with layer lines.

[@michbushi]

Not if you slice it at the minimum allowed layer height already

[@savagefrito]

Get UV resin, brush it inti the layer lines and cure with UV light. Smooth as glass now.

[@benjaminmajor5144]

I use a thin coat of liquid green stuff, looks like cast metal then ​@@savagefrito

[@CJ-ur3fx]

Just print it at 0.05mm layers with a 0.2mm nozzle.

[@SquintyGears]

Yeah that and really understanding where the 0.2mm nozzel unlocks detail or doesn't would go a long way. You can get really high level of detail with arachne wall algorithm on 0.4mm. Saves you on the print time.

[@SummoningMatters]

FDM Printing really has come a long way. when I started, this many detailed prints in only ~65 hours would have been god teir.

[@TacticalMetalhead]

I recently built a James Workshop Knight Warden, and it took 2 weeks. I make sure every gap is filled, every mold line is shaved, etc. Something you don't have to do with prints. Crazy that this STL is a LITERAL exact copy of the real-life model.

[@spellablename6099]

For the metal areas on these types of models i recommend drybrushing the silvery paint on. This gives the model much more depth and it picks out some of the details better.

[@Oblerone]

Problem is with printed models is that it will catch on all the layer lines instead.

[@KillerTyphoons]

Connect the Printer to a Kill-a-watt to find out the energy usage too, then include that in the final price next time you do a big print like this. It'll probably still be only like $20 for the whole thing.

[@LtmuffinmanCA]

Holy shit yea! I just rewatched your other videos and was thinking oh man I can’t wait to see the imperial knight when you mentioned it. Uploaded 20 minutes ago

[@calebjtv]

really digging this style of video man hell yeah

[@kennethcourtois3037]

Love it. One request. I see videos where people print warhammer in FDM, but nobody ever talks about how they orient the models in the slicer. I found that for a lot of 40K stuff, getting that just right is vital for a nice print. How do you orient all of the parts?

[@jomblr]

He doesn’t, check the plates at 1:32. You could probably shave 15 hours off the print time if you cut the model into pieces instead of printing a forest of support trees 😅

[@LuckyMonker]

For smaller parts, I did a test with the exact same settings, nozzle, material, and stl. It really depends, but around a 30º orientation gives you MUCH better details, as laying a piece flat usually gets the side facing down the bottom to require much more cleanup due to all of the shorter supports covering it. Rotating it means some supports will be taller, allowing for more detail in those areas and easier cleanup.

[@noliverk]

I keep seeing impressive warhammer stuff coming off of the bambu printers.

[@raik8243]

ive picked up a a1 recently. this video is awesome but in some areas it doesnt do the printers jsutice in terms of quality. I like to print with a layer height of 0,06mm and this makes layer lines basically dissapear

[@ratsmacker8113]

How did you find this file?! Ive been searching for so long and coudnt find any at all!!

[@JumpingJack44]

Same

[@DMTaino]

Let’s see if anyone would put a link up 😊

[@PeterPetermann]

a bit of sanding before priming can do wonders about the lines

[@Gawl88]

Looking forward to trying this when I get my mini in a couple weeks. I did resin printing last year for about 6 months and printed a Porphyrion knight that came out incredible.

[@AlvarazCMSB]

I've been doing lots of painting FDM recently, I'd avoid ever using washes on prints as they just accentuate the layers, instead I like using techniques like sponging or airbrushing in highlights and shadows

[@Kamen_Hammer]

Even with the layer lines, Absolutely stunning Model and Paint Job!

[@MaxGreulich]

Love your content you and many others have inspired me to start 3d printing miniatures. I do recommend printing at a .05 mm later height

[@Star_Developer]

Hell yeah I would love Battles Reports! Also outstanding job with the knight!

[@AlexDenton0451]

I just got a Bambu A1 with the AMS lite a bit ago, I'm definitely tempted to give this a try after a few test prints.

[@One_Stale_Donut]

Cannot avoid sanding and priming with fdm printers. That said - very nice model and paint job, well done!

[@dankolord]

yeah but you cant avoid priming with resin prints either

[@cool24a]

AWESOME!!! Good video!! Make more!! I love the fact that it only cost $3.00!

[@Slurgical_3D_Terrain_Channel]

Awesome, and spreadsheets!!! I spreadsheet my workflow, design, material and cost to price to the best of my ability.

[@Silly_Heidi]

It looks so cool! I want to build my own but I currently don't have a printer

[@Splatterpunk_OldNewYork]

Get some Gunpla tools. Those large surfaces with obvious layer lines can we wet sanded using 1000 grit plastic sandpaper sheets. If you take your time, as this print surely did, you can probably remove 80% visible lines with a glass file. Gunpla has already solved this for us A1 mini owners. Your videos prove what's possible.

[@christophermyers2317]

Love your videos man ! Keep up the good work !!

[@Mephiston]

when you do the warhound, please experiment with filler primer and a cursory sanding of parts, you'll be surprised how much it fills in layer lines of the bigger panels. I recently printed an astraeus on my p1s and it sanded up pretty nicely after a few days of hard work. Remember: You're never going to get it 100% unless you spend a month on it sanding everything finely and heat treating the parts afterwards.

[@ominemon]

Love the work my dude, I was wondering if you'd ever consider making a video experimenting with different sanding techniques and ways you can eliminate those layer lines

[@swompfox2464]

im finishing up printing my Warlord Titan. its taken about 2 spools to print and a week! the legs are hard to balance when gluing them into place. my Warhound looks pretty good too.

[@FirstLast-wg5rd]

I like to use auto body paint as a primer since it comes with fillers mixed in to help hide layer lines.

[@xaviert.9566]

Good job. 👍 However, you should have turned the "adaptative layer height" option on in the slicer for the carapace and the knees for instance. ;-)

[@NeoDemocedes]

You can tell the folks that are new to the 3D printing game. These results were really rough for a print using a 0.2mm nozzle. If you can see layer lines with the naked eye, you did something wrong.

[@Riper999]

Yes to the BRs !!! What an amazing print. Good job man, for the print, the paint and the video.

[@frawgenstein8522]

What an outstanding print. I ordered a Bambu Lab P1S yesterday, if it prints half as well as yours, I'll be super happy.

[@DarkNecronLord]

Make sure to order the proper heads and watch a bunch of videos on print settings and videos on why it does this

[@aljosaorevic9077]

Where exacly did you find the STL files?

[@SquintyGears]

I think you might like explorering slicer settings further and see how much detail you can get with the default 0.4mm at fine layer heights and arachne walls. I'm not sure how closely you look but it could save you a ton of print time and it's often in-perceptible.

[@Sam-xt5gb]

Incredibly inspired to get a 3d printer. Thanks homie!

[@sebskiller13]

Just finished my Castellan Knight. Heres a few tips for better details. 1. Cut the body or other bigger parts in 2, better details on the top part. 2. Sometime, its better to use normal support, especially for smaller part or those that are close to the ground 3. Play with adaptive layer lines on round surface you think are gonna be a problem. You trade better details for more print time. 4. Its pretty easy to magnetise the arms to be able to have every knight questoris options. Was that Castellan found in a big File on cult or somewhere else? Also 4. 3.

[@siderealeel4]

i have printed 2 mars pattern warhounds and i love them and want to print more titans. I have a tank on the works at the moment

[@Sthrall]

theres a reason why the top armor pas placed vertically on the print bed its to prevent layer lines gradual incline is never looks good when printed horizontally

[@TheTalentedMrZing]

Has anyone used the automotive filler spraypaint? I heard it helps with the lines.

[@TheMugwump1]

Rustoleum automotive filler/primer is by far the best I've found. Lightly sand before and after coating and the worst prints will take maybe half a dozen applications with very little sanding between coats. If it's really bad from a small layer shift you can always add some filler to the low spots. Sooo much less work. It takes a LOT longer because you're waiting for paint to cure between coats, but if you're patient it's the only way to go.

[@nparsona]

Yes, automotive filler works great. I use adaptive layering then light sanding and usually 3 coats of automotive filler spray.

[@TheTalentedMrZing]

@@TheMugwump1 I'm in no hurry. Thanks for the rec!

[@TheTalentedMrZing]

@@nparsona What does adaptive layering do?

[@nparsona]

@@TheTalentedMrZing It automatically varies the layer height based on the model. A 0.4mm nozzle has a height range of 0.08-0.28 mm. By using a smaller layer height on areas that need it, such as a dome top, the quality of the model is improved. As it selectively adjusts the height it has little impact on printing time compared to just setting the smallest possible layer height for the whole model.

[@bradley8418]

I’ve tried some miniature prints with a 2.0 nozzle @ .05 on an a1 mini and they turned out amazing. Layer lines are almost non existent

[@The-carp-anglers]

What file did you use and could you link it in the reply’s pls Love your work and would love to try this

[@CalebNelsonFreedomGundum101]

People truly do underestimate the power of 3d printing, as much as I love gw models, they're just way too expensive now. If its between supporting gw, and making your own, I advise doing both. While not everyone can afford a printer, I wouldn't say its bad to buy some proxy models either.

[@Paradukes]

I recently finished a Cerastus Knight Lancer, and I'm planning on doing an Acastus Knight Porphyrion next - gonna take quite some time to print 😅

[@goalie40404040]

In Bambu studio if you slice all plates it will give you a total time and per plate time filament usage all that stuff.

[@jensblixt190]

Nice videos!😊 A question from a 3d printer noob (haven’t bought one yet)….. how are they at printing smaller scale minis? Say 6mm? Wondering because I’m wondering to get into the game full spectrum dominance

[@Huntsmanlance]

I have only been able to find a stl made by Mogli Maker called the Imperial Knight Crusader but that isn't the same as yours...any clues on where to find the stl's? Great job. It looks fantastic and worth the print time!

[@vascor3015]

Alright where did you buy the files from?

[@akumaking1]

How does it compare to resin?

[@blazeparsley5986]

Where do u find the files?

[@luisochoa2163]

The only thing what would make this Video A+ is a link to the file 🙏

[@josepaz9680]

Which stl files did you use?

[@gamerlol9466]

how would i find this file?

[@christiangruening352]

Is there a reason tust you don’t use primer with microfiller?

[@wojakov]

7:25 i really like how good this looks. Can you try to print any part with PLA Carbon Fiber and compare it? Im using CF on large models like ships and planes but there's not many small details like your Knight, but layers there blend really really smooth. You should give it a try.

[@MrMuchoscojones]

Good job he turned out great! Though id add another dollar or two on to the total costs to account for energy usage. 60 hours at (optimistically) 100 watts or so, 6kwh. Still nothing compared to JW

[@defNOTdragoon]

I am currently printing all the Armor parts like Shields etc plus the weapons on my resin Printer and the Skeleton on my A- If I do it efficiently I could easily Build 6 of these per day The Army is growing Day by Day, so is my grey pile of shame

[@malcire]

Is there a reaon you didn't use some auto primer and sanding? Have you found that it's not helpful enough?

[@WendyGameing]

I printed a baneblade, then printed it in multi colour, PAIN but worth

[@PitFighterPlus]

Welp now I know what my next project on my 3d printer is!

[@Sir-Blackscorpion]

Whats the Name of the File? Please

[@PonyMonbana]

Do you think other fdm printers could reach such level?

[@viscarious1]

Yes, but most need a fair bit of calibration and tweaking/upgrading to get there

[@PonyMonbana]

@viscarious1 ty

[@oozedat3964]

Dope asf

[@WaaX91TV]

Very nice ! 👍

[@turtlecheese8]

One minute gang lets goooooooooo

[@XTrooperL]

Never painted a fdm 3d printed model but have you tried stippeling as a painting technique? It might hide the layerlines better then default colors + washes approach.

[@hughmac7423]

Looks okay, not that I like the lines in the panels. I find the best way to get metal to look good, is to start with a bronze or copper, then dry brush silver or another bright metal colour, then wash with Nuln Oil or similar, makes it look very old and weathered.

[@ironcell26]

If you add electricity cost how much would that be?

[@TheTalentedMrZing]

I'm curious too. I have the A1. It's still so much cheaper but I am curious.

[@PropaneProd]

I want to get something to monitor the usage just for evidence, but from what I've read online its no different consumption than a lamp. The most energy used is the plate heating up, but once its hot its easy to maintain energy wise. I've seen no big impact on my energy bill either.

[@CalladorJ]

Electricity cost for the mini is about 1 cent per hour.

[@Nuffle]

It would depend on your local utility rates, based on the max power specs of the A1 Mini (150W) and the 66 hour print time it would be 9.9 kWh worth of electricity. In my area we're charged $0.14/kWh so it would cost no more than $1.386 in total, likely a little less since your printer won't require the full 150W over the whole 66 hours.

[@lorismasat2354]

I've printed an entire Reaver titan and I've spent 3 euros in electricity. Like 10kw. I have a A1 mini as well

[@ethanplegocreations]

I am also printing a knight but I am printing a crusader

[@mamontskupoy8501]

Link to the model?...

[@jamesrussell5161]

Yeah that’s an amazing model also after the STL haha 😛

[@EmptyBrainWasTaken]

@@jamesrussell5161he posts the STLs in his discord server

[@dabananaman1550]

@EmptyBrainWasTaken i havent found it yet so he may not have posted it yet

[@simonrichardson4289]

@EmptyBrainWasTaken whats the name of his discord please thanks.

[@FuegoDCat]

as always it's great to see these kind of video's, but sadly never does any take the cost of running the printer in the price tag.

[@ssk8053]

Dude your works are awesome but it would be more awesome if you dropped stl links of the models you print (love ya by)

[@pizzalord3n]

Something something purple site. Protect the artists, don't namedrop like Battle brother Sam (James spy)

[@JumpingJack44]

Files pls

[@LitoFromCebu]

try using the new supertact plate from bambu

[@dascodraws6040]

3D PRINTER GO BRRRR

[@curtwhitlock7234]

Hey, I just stumbled across your channel randomly and started watching this video. I just wanted to say you should have your cat checked out by a vet if you haven't already. Our previous cat had the same kind of eye issue that yours has in this video, and it was a tumor. We had to have her eye removed. Just wanted you to know.

[@PropaneProd]

Hey thanks for checking in about that, we've been taking him to the vet for past 2~3 years to check/monitor his eye. Past visit they were confident its just a color change and not a malignant growth or something bad. We're gonna keep monitoring it, so thanks again for taking the time to let me know

[@curtwhitlock7234]

Yeah, man, no problem. Our original vet told us the same thing for a few years, but we found out later that they were wrong. Our cat had other health problems so we took her to a specialist and they indicated that it needed to be removed. I hope it is just a color change. @PropaneProd

[@Vroomerz]

More of a reaver titan guy than a warhound.

[@imdeaded]

What, no magnets?

[@jonbauml225]

Skip the warhound. Go straight to the warlord!

[@MaheerKibria]

So I have always had problems with when people compare their DIY solution vs the out of the box solution and don't include man hours or the post-processing to make it look good. Time is a resource like anything else and it has value. And while this looks interesting it's not nearly the quality of the original model and no amount of print orientation is going to match it layer lines are always going to be there. To match the quality you will need to do some level of post-processing. Even resin has layer lines printing at 10-20 micron layer heights has layer lines you can see with good vision

[@leafy126.5]

resin mini, with paint, will be indiscernible from the original. You cant see the lines at all if its a good print. Its good, especially if you compare it to gw resin

[@dodgersfnshepard8673]

Got an stl for that 😂

[@RobertBrownCyberboy109]

You need to dial in that printer , I have the exact same printer with the 0.2 and I’m printing of better quality using bamboo pla Matt

[@KABAR1943]

You probably used a .06 or .08 layer height huh? I was gonna comment the point of a .2 nozzle is to use a height a .4 can't lol

[@gabiballetje]

Omg, the lines, i hate it. I would so surely just still use a resin printer.

[@johnnyhellfire6]

Try elegoo filament, better and cheaper

[@JumpingJack44]

Last time I used some on a Bambu printer it clogged the extruder

[@johnnyhellfire6]

@JumpingJack44 that's strange because that's all I use and haven't had a clog yet

[@jesse-got-dolphins-into-heaven]

where are the stl? also my brother in plastic you neeed better nippers. checkout godhand gunpla nippers or the lesser cost ones.

[@SaitoGray]

You definitely need spray putty and sanding before paint. Don't recommand resin, it stink, it's messy and dangerous. Use automobile spray.

[@Victor-vj5ds]

Dont use spray putty, automotive paint, and sanding, its messy and toxic to your lungs. Use resin, the fumes are easy to vent and the resin is easy to clean up with IPA.

[@MurryBob]

*Nod Nod Nod*....

[@calebjtv]

to help with layer lines with FDM prints, especially on something this big, I highly recommend priming with a automotive primer that has a filler in it. you can sand the sides down before you start painting it up and smooth out all those tricky transition layers.

[@NightyBla]

60h on a 0.2 nozzle with around 250g is your biggest project. Cute 😉

[@dancarr2099]

Lmfao! Nice :)

[@Hurtone]

How is this not illegal? It is a one-to-one copy

[@wakcedout]

eh i think if i do go with 3d printer i will get a resin printer. the lines are just getting me here.

[@mark6302]

damn thats detailed

[@XAndevelX]

Freaking awesome, just amazing what you can do with that printer, now as the suggestion to what you could do next you could try printing a Necron combat patrol like the ones you did for the other armies and finish with the monolith that would be a new challenge since the necrons are really skinny(kind of) for most FDM printers and the monolith is a bit bigger than even this Knight so it would be a whole new challenge for your channel, as alway great work and cant wait to see more of your videos :)

[@ArtyomKurepin]

Why didnt you prep the model before painting it, the lines are unbearable. Or this was a quality check of some sort

[@kajn3206]

Stl !!! Odkaz prosím

[@jaychrist4437]

UHG the lines are so gross. As a gamer I can see the appeal if you don't care how your models look, but these are just ugly for an actual hobbyist or painter.

[@e_m_met]

Nice print but why do you super glue???? It's plastic; the biggest benefit is being able to use plastic cement..

[@turtlecheese8]

Because PLA isn't the right kind of plastic and your Testors plastic model glue won't work.

[@OneEyed_Jack]

Plastic glue won't work, but plastic weld or high concentration acetone will serve the same purpose.

[@Skullyweb]

try 3d gloop for 3d prints

[@e_m_met]

Ok, maybe "plastic cement" is the wrong name for what I use. I have the A1 printer and I glue my PLA with E.M.A Model Supplies Plastic Weld. It works great!

[@turtlecheese8]

@@e_m_met I'll have to give that a shot!

[@ch-sqpopay9949]

man.. sorry but imo the layer lines are horrendus. I would use a resin printer brother...

[@shy_dodecahedron]

Everything about this knight feels cheap. The layer lines, your paint job, the utter impossibility to have as much customisation as the real deal

[@death2all79zx]

Print another chaos night to oppose it, use all the lessons learned from this night. See if you can dial in the detail settings and get rid of some of those layer lines.

[@georgeyboyhowe1685]

thats a brilliant print for fdm i have a mk3.9 prusa also a elegoo sat4 ultra the resin is so much better for these type of prints atb