Beal Escaper: Review and Analysis

[@nicksweeney8168]

“Making rappelling exciting again.” Indeed!

[@you2tooyou2too]

The principle of the device is similar to a 'chinese finger trap' or electricians 'wire-pulling basket'. The elastic release component (short black strap) is the most likely failure point due to fatigue and age-stiffening, but it fails to the non-release mode. Another failure mode I can see but have not been able to reproduce, is conceivable if the device is pulled tight against an edge or rough surface, preventing it from either holding or releasing. All of the demonstrations I have seen, show it properly installed so it is suspended in the air, away from obstructions, avoiding the most likely possible failure modes.

[@revhead]

Barney knows best! He was also very aware of the risk in using this item

[@TheMichealaw]

You caught it. A beer deserves

[@aramhovanesian3689]

We rapped the Longs Peak's Diamond Wall on it last week. 7+ pitches. The thing is solid.

[@sergeantcrow]

I would have thought so too.... Beal would not release it unless it was safe to use...

[@johnwainwright1022]

I think I would prefer the weight of a double rope rather than having to rely on this device!

[@ratherbyexploring4898]

I don't climb but I never understood a double strand abseil, much less a single strand abseil. Even with a double strand, failure of one strand will make the system fail. Where's the redundancy? Every retrieval method short of a doubled rope through some rap rings is clumsy. Until now. I would rig TWO beal escapers with two ropes and abseil two stranded, now in this case a two strand abseil makes sense, each strand is redundant. If you are not lazy about your anchors, one entire batch of anchors and an entire strand can fail.

[@chrissmith4512]

I don't understand how you say that it is dangerous. You gave your initial thoughts, then proved that it worked. You used it twice with no issues. Then afterwards you continued to say that it was dangerous and won't work. If it is dangerous and won't work, though your evidence shows that it does, you gave examples of when you should use it. Your proof versus your opinion don't support each other.

[@dangerdave138]

i dont understand people thinking that climbing is supposed to be a safe space, its supposed to be dangerous, this thing is engineered as a rescue tool yet everyone wants to dog pile it, clearly these people have never been on routes without bolts to coddle them.

[@ajcfactor]

I was thinking the same thing. Over and over people review this, say that it's dangerous and can't recommend it right after demonstrating that it works exactly as it's supposed to. It seems the greatest danger is not getting your rope released at the end of the rappel. Always sad to see people ignore evidence that doesn't match their preconceived notions.