Build a Simple Modular Pot Still Head + How to Solder Copper to Stainless Steel.

Today I’m building pieces that can be used for a very simple modular copper still head and condenser to fit on any 2” tri-clamp ferrule. Through research, trial and error I learned how to solder copper to stainless steel. I hope watching me stumble through this can help you figure it out quicker😊 Links to materials below.
Options if you'd like to support Bearded & Bored:
Shirts & Drinkware - bearded-and-bored.creator-spr...
Patreon Monthly Contribution: / beardedandbored
Monthly Contribution through KZbin = click the JOIN button next to the Subscribe button.
One Time Contribution to help me buy supplies: www.paypal.com/donate?hosted_...
Liquid Flux - amzn.to/35Ii3mo
Silver Solder - amzn.to/3jBM6kB
MAP Gas Torch - amzn.to/37Ubobk
2” Stainless Steel Ferrules and Triclamps - amzn.to/37Uvq5E
2” PTFE Triclamp Gaskets - amzn.to/2JbGdxO
2” Copper Pipe Sections - amzn.to/3jFA9KD
1” to 2” Copper Reducer - amzn.to/3e6ncZf
1” Copper Pipe - amzn.to/3oFNl60
1/2” to 1” Copper Reducer - amzn.to/3oD5Don
½” Copper Pipe - amzn.to/3kFP8W1
Shop at Amazon using these affiliate links to help support my channel without costing you anything extra. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Disclaimer: This video may contain a simulation of the process of distillation filmed for entertainment and educational purposes only. The equipment depicted is solely for the production of distilled water and essential oils. The information on the process is provided for its entertainment and educational value only. Distillation of alcohol is currently illegal at the U.S. Federal level if done without a license, even for the sole purpose of personal consumption. Understand and follow Federal and State laws when making alcoholic beverages. If you attempt this project, you assume all risk. Please drink responsibly.
TWITTER - / beardednbored
Intro music - “Yes Ma’am” by Cullah is licensed under an Attribution-ShareAlike License. Check him out. He's Awesome! / @cullah
Outro Music - "I've got a Plan To Rule The World" - by Cullah is licensed under an Attribution-ShareAlike License.
#HowToSilverSolder #HowToSolderFerrules

[@BeardedBored]

ATTENTION!!!: Forgot to mention that you MUST use Lead Free Solder or Silver Solder for all connections!

[@ThinkFreely2012]

I did some of my joints with hard solder also called silver brazing. It uses a higher silver content solder, and an acid based paste flux. I'll check the names of what I used and post it here when I get home. I didn't do them all because it's expensive and it's tricky to get right because it take a whole lot of heat but go too far and you can damage the stainless and make it rust if you don't pickle it. A little goes a long way though.

[@ThinkFreely2012]

Ok this is what i use for soldering stainless to copper or other metals, for the hard solder/ silver brazing I use: Harris Safety-Silv 56 (cadmium free) Harris Stay-Silv (white) brazing flux paste. I found the black paste harder to use. The smoke from these is dangerous! Don't breathe it! When applied correctly and the right heat is good it works and flows great, and a little goes a long way. There are good tips in videos and even in the Amazon reviews! For regular "soft" soldering stainless to copper I use: Harris Stay-Clean liquid soldering and tinning flux (careful this stuff is dangerous). Lead-free silver bearing solder.

[@ThinkFreely2012]

One more tip I just thought of! Make sure your gaps are tight! If you have gaps the solder will not fill and you'll have leaks. If your gaps are tight the solder will flow very easily and you'll get a good seal that doesn't leak and is strong! Sometimes it take a lot of work to make pieces fit nice and tight and clean, but trust me it's worth the effort to get it as perfect as you can.

[@BeardedBored]

@@ThinkFreely2012 Thanks so much for all the detail!

[@nextlifeonearth]

TBH lead solder for a few joints will barely be measurable in your product for the first few runs and a non-issue afterwards. Some hundreds of yards of water pipes in the ground in many places are still made of lead and it's not an issue. Roman aquaducts also had lead pipes and lead poisoning was only an issue because they used it to sweeten their wine, not because they used lead pipes. Historically stills were soldered with lead too, for centuries. It's not great for you, but its dangers are overstated. You're more likely to die of alcohol poisoning than the lead, that's for sure. That being said, just use lead-free solder. Doesn't hurt to be careful in case everything goes south.

[@StillIt]

Love that you left the "screw ups" in dude. Things seem "too obviouse to mention" sometimes in hindsight or with experience. But its this kinda stuff that really helps Newbies like me!

[@BeardedBored]

I figured that's the best way to get the point across, show don't tell, especially on the screw ups. Plus, that's just pure comedy gold:-)

[@justsomeguy8951]

That and it shows you are human ha.

[@BeardedBored]

@@justsomeguy8951 So very very human, haha:-)

[@gangaskan2255]

still it, you're not a noob :) a kiwi, but not a noob! (kidding :) )

[@n8vmc469]

Yeah man that’s awesome! Your trials showed me a few things I had questions about. Next time, instead of soldering uphill, use gravity to your advantage. Other than that, you did well! The proof is in the working parts. (Hypothetically)😂

[@them_damn_rocks1617]

For removing flux in the future you can use an old jewelers technique and pickle the parts. Make a mixture of 1 part water to 1 part distilled vinegar, with 1 tsp of salt per cup of solution. Get it hot, soak your part in it. It'll remove all the flux and oxidation and leave a bright part.

[@nellynelson965]

beat me to it.

[@BeardedBored]

Thanks Jeremy!

[@barbarariley8111]

You can also add flower to make a paste, that will hang on if you do not have a bath

[@gangaskan2255]

to add on this, removing the Solder you should soak a old rag in water, wipe the part, extra blobs removed. or if you're worried about that you could use steel wool

[@rickhoebing661]

Ketchup works good to clean copper and stain less

[@rogerbarrett2237]

Can't wait to see the whole thing assembled(hypothetically).

[@jebboceefus553]

Persistence pays off. I had similar set backs putting my first "water distiller " together. I just can't seem to keep enough distilled water on the shelf lately and will be getting a bigger boiler.

[@BeardedBored]

You've got to stay hydrated:-)

[@richardlyons1832]

Glad to see that you mentioned to heat the thicker, heavier parts first. I would add to that, melt a small amount of solder on one side of the joint and heat the other side. When that drop of solder melts, you're ready to add more solder. Also, when using previously used fittings you can heat it until the solder turns shiny and use a jersey glove or rag to wipe away the unwanted solder.

[@HodgyE5]

Thank you for sharing the experience. Brave man to show his own learning lessons.

[@BeardedBored]

Thanks!

[@randalmoroski4423]

Thanks for your honesty!

[@ChristnThms]

That's a great technique for making that reduction. I work with the AC guys a fair amount, which requires very leak free soldering. When we're repiping a new compressor, because the original is no longer manufactured, and the "replacement" isn't a direct fit, we often have to step up or down a piping size. Most of the time, we just cut the oversize portion long and use it like a sleeve, soldering the exterior portions. I've never seen an interior joint soldered like that, but it's a trick worth remembering.

[@williamarmstrong7199]

The only way to really learn is from mistakes.. cheaper and a lot quicker learning from other peoples! Thanks for posting!

[@BeardedBored]

Thanks!

[@josephkordinak1591]

Thanks for the video. Yep there is a lot of trial and error. I picked up a keg to make a boiler out of. I have a keg to practice on now and a store bought boiler.

[@ancientegyptandthebible]

I liked the video. I think you've already learned to use gravity to your advantage. And soldering two dissimilar metals can be tricky, but I noticed two things that might help. First, the tighter the joint the less solder needed. Second, solder follows the heat. Copper is highly heat conductive; steel less so. So, heating the joint inside and out will help the capillary action of the solder.

[@BeardedBored]

Thanks so much!

[@jacobweininger6258]

You're fantastic at describing the process, and how to go about a project like this for someone (like myself) who is unfamiliar to the skill.

[@BeardedBored]

Glad I could help:-)

[@heymulen1840]

Yes, had my eye on the solder, lead free is a must 👍 And I love the re-use of old things !! 🔧 for teaching hypothetical things like a distilling apparatus. Love you keep it simple, no power-tools 😁 Being a smith with stainless steel as my education I "hypothetically" made one of that material, And I used the module build to. It gives so many options from short to long column, pot to reflux to gin basket , sight glass to-to... Cant wait to see 👁 the corn candy whiskey video!! 🧐

[@BeardedBored]

Thanks so much Mulen:-)

[@PoppaLongroach]

my pap was a plumber n tought me how to solder when i was a kid.....i think u did fine man. trial and error is a great teacher and the important thing is now u know the basics and have shown those that dot know how to go about learning for themself. also i like the cleaning tips for first run. its a must for copper

[@BeardedBored]

Thanks man!

[@lukewarmwater6412]

I have to agree. trial and error, or using science I.E. observation and reason. works best. what I always told my daughter still rings true. if you do something perfect first try it was an accident, nobody ever gets things right the first time!

[@cosanostra7112]

if you squeezed the pipe with a pair of channel locks the Farrel would fit snug also reheat and wipe pipe clean its easier . iv sweat enough pipe to go around the world lol . if your joint looks sloppy hit it hot with the acid brush knocking the excess off always wipe your joint right after it sets with a dry rag to remove the flux while its hot or it will turn green eventually

[@henrybackes208]

I've been wanting to distill my own water for a while now, thank you for the help!

[@BeardedBored]

Glad I could help!

[@MagicMaGGoT]

So I have to say... I literally just took up the idea for this hobby and doing my research on flavors, techniques etc. I then stumble onto, probably the most important piece of advice hidden right at the end, CLEANING which should be the first thing you see when searching about the hobby. Thank you for this!

[@BeardedBored]

Glad it was helpful. Have fun with the hobby:-)

[@1974mutt]

To get the solder out of a bad joint, heat it back up and wipe the melted solder off with an old rag. It'll save you a lot of time.

[@StillnTheClear]

Thanks so much for sharing the mistakes. Seeing mistakes can be as useful or even more so.

[@BeardedBored]

Happy to screw up on camera if it means I can keep folks from making the same mistakes;-)

[@timchapman6702]

I totally agree, I’ve been planning on doing this very build. Now I know I have to order some liquid flux. Thanks man

[@russellfye1033]

I'm pretty far away from needing this, but when I do, I'm glad you've done it first and made this video. Very informative and clear. I'll be watching it many times. Also... Its Funny 😂 It helps if a video doesn't take itself too seriously but gets the info across and doesn't patronise, which I don't think it does. Thank you.

[@mrglasecki]

Great safety, best advice I can give is on similar material always heat the denser / thicker material first, on dissimilar material heat the least absorbent first ( ie, stainless steel is a absolute heat sink compared to copper)

[@SA12String]

A tip from a 30 year HVAC tech. When working with big fittings and specially odd metals, an oxy-acetylene torch works a lot faster. There is a learning curve, but once you get it down you can solder huge fittings in just a couple minutes.

[@lynnchandler3116]

Thank you for all the great content for us Newb's

[@BeardedBored]

Happy to do it:-)

[@fransjordan]

Thanks, it was very informative.

[@gmrbison7316]

Great video and excellent cleaning points. Looks like you did some good research! 👍

[@BeardedBored]

Thanks!

[@peterciurea7771]

you can sand the inside of your copper. I use a sanding sphere(it's a drill attachment you find in the sanding section from harbor freight, worn down to the appropriate size) and a drill extender of the right size. That way you can really abrade all the inside. For smaller diameters, just use a rod , cut down lengthwise for a few inches on one end, with some sandpaper inserted and wound around.

[@deanv8663]

Great info. I am getting ready to build my condenser, I will certainly be ordering some liquid flux to replace the paste that I purchased. I appreciate you sharing the pitfalls that came with the project it will certainly help me a mine.

[@BeardedBored]

Good luck on the build:-)

[@deanv8663]

@@BeardedBored Thanks!

[@kb3kyx]

The brand of solder makes a huge difference also, I use Bridget flux and solder its for plumbing so its safe, flows smooth and even,I know because I am a plumber. Also I like using silver braze rod to join stainless to copper.

[@kb3kyx]

Pro tip if you have the solder excess, roll the tube onto it side and hit the solder bead with the torch till the blobs start to melt and run to the low side. Also once you get it nice and hot to where the solder is molten you wipe the joint with a wet rag will get rid of the blobs

[@BeardedBored]

Thanks for the advice, brother!

[@MadmanInUkraine]

Whoah two really useful tips!! Thanks Justin!!

[@sprocketandwheel]

My favorite flux is .. Ruby flux.. it is a superior product.. works with stainless steel...

[@BeardedBored]

@@sprocketandwheel I'll check it out. Thanks:-)

[@wesleyholland5747]

Love your videos, and the funny stuff you leave in. Thanks

[@BeardedBored]

Thanks brother:-)

[@jasonlayman8817]

Good video, that was a lot of work.

[@marconantel7735]

You did great. I find cleaning the ss with some acetone helps, and keeping the heat as low as possible. I did a copper fitting to keg pictorial on a couple of the forums a few years back, like I said you did great

[@BeardedBored]

Can you share the link? I'd love tot see it.

[@marconantel7735]

@@BeardedBored www.artisan-distiller.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=8386&p=117603&hilit=Tickle#p117603

[@OpenSourceDistilling]

Thanks for the awesome video. Much appreciated!

[@BeardedBored]

Thanks!

[@danssv8]

Nice video , thanks for all the information

[@bourbonbrofessor9938]

All that would be great advice for someone wanting to make canned prepper water! Well done Sir!

[@BeardedBored]

Fuel for the lawn mower.

[@bourbonbrofessor9938]

@@BeardedBored I use it to start charcoal.

[@vtcrafter6626]

Also George has a great simple cleaning g solution for copper. He calls it 551. 500 ml of water, 50 ml of hydrogen peroxide and 1 oz of citric acid. And it works amazing. Especially for copper packing. Love the tips on soldering stainless to copper

[@BeardedBored]

I've used the 551 a couple times now. Great stuff.

[@silverstallion4634]

When it starts to run out of the worm I wouldn't just let Vapor come out! I would have my condenser on and just throw away the heads(the first liquid to flow out of the worm)! That way you don't ever take the chance of blowing yourself and your house up! Thanks for sharing!

[@danssv8]

I like the ideas you've shared, cheers mate

[@stephenlaverack289]

Thanks

[@ironmck9826]

Trial and error never fails.....well it does ..... but in the end it feels like you've accomplished so much more than you have....right? Love that you include the mistakes keep the content comming.

[@BeardedBored]

If at first you don't succeed, try, try, try, try, try, try, try, try again:-)

[@mogwai327]

Hello from France. Thanks a lot for your nice channel, I discovered it on Still It.

[@BeardedBored]

Thanks for coming

[@grayco2853]

Way to go Bearded and Bored love your real videos. You may not learn more from mistakes but they to think through what you did wrong and hopefully not want to do them again. 😉

[@BeardedBored]

Very true. Thanks Bill:-)

[@LiborTinka]

Thanks. If I were you, I would go all stainless steel, especially as there are solderable kinds. But I just started researching and learning from videos like yours.

[@BeardedBored]

Copper helps to strip out sulfur compounds from the wash, so I went with copper pipes for that.

[@scottg62g]

Ever hear of Hydrogen sulfide? "sulfur" smells like rotten eggs and tastes very bad and is almost as toxic as hydrogen cyanide. Copper absorbs these particulates, stainless does not

[@LiborTinka]

@@scottg62g oh - we obvoiusly come from different fields - I am doing analytical chemistry, so I like to approach of chemical cleaning and distillation in either all-glass or as inert apparatus as possible; for alcohols, sulfur compounds can be easily removed by several methods, e.g. by adding mild oxidizing agent such as silver nitrate (this won't oxidize the alcohol but other things will) or using activated carbon etc.

[@scottg62g]

@@LiborTinka okay. Just trying to let you know not to poison yourself with bad spirits

[@LiborTinka]

​@@scottg62g don't worry I use alcohols only as solvents and reagents, not for drinking - typically anhydrous ethanol (which is not for drinking per se), methanol and 2-propanol when I need pharmaceutical-grade ethanol, it can be prepared from sugar wash, which is free of all the mentioned compounds - we are talking about fractionation through a long packed column - all the bad compounds, even if always present in trace amounts, are too low in concentration to be harmful

[@philiptruitt]

Thank you!

[@spikelove9533]

I have the same soldering skills as you lol I've only did it a little making still parts. I learned something I've never tried liquid Flux. I went with copper ferrells because I wasn't sure about soldering stainless to copper. Wish this video was out then. Copper Ferrells are expensive! I went a step further and shined up the copper with a buffing wheel and drill I got at home depot it has buffing compound in the kit and after I went threw all 3 steps I had a very nice shiny finish. Thanks for the great info!

[@BeardedBored]

Yeah, I had to learn to do these because the copper ferrules were too pricey for me. Glad I know how to do it now, but copper sure would have been a smoother process;-) I need to get some buffing compound. Does the shine last even after the copper gets hot on the still or do you have to rebuff it every time?

[@spikelove9533]

@@BeardedBored it lasts quite awhile. Maybe like every 10 times of use I hit them with a buffing wheel and the finest compound but I run her at least twice a month. Im kinda of OCD Jessie's clean and maintains video made me cring lol, but im sure I go way over board. The inside of my copper flutes and onion head are kinda stained but I just use a green pad in there there but, the out side keeps the finish pretty well. I use very hot water and dish soap and a quick wipe down with a micro fiber towel so no water spots happen. I also use tarnex 2 or 3 times a year mostly for the inside. Also dollar store green scratch pads work wonders last quite awhile and don't make the mess like steel wool dose.

[@BeardedBored]

@@spikelove9533 Thanks so much for the info. Your rig always shines:-)

[@boharris8179]

The best stuff ever is Harris brand stay clean liquid flux. Been using it for a couple weeks now and it's amazing stuff. Idk how I nvr knew about or used it b4 a friend recommended it. Another great thing is an 8oz bottle will likely last for years.

[@BeardedBored]

Yep, that stuff is magic.

[@65sailman]

One thing that helped me with ss to copper was to tin the ss and then clean it again. Then insert it into the copper, add more flux and proceed as usual to complete the joint. With the ferrule and copper spacers I did the above process and then soldered it in the fitting. I hope this helps in the future.

[@BeardedBored]

That helps a lot! Thanks:-)

[@user-lb8do4ew6k]

This method was how I was taught to sweat ss to cu by a plumber.

[@MawoDuffer]

I have built one still before, not the most experienced. Soldering copper to stainless steel was a nightmare for me. I think it took 4 tries. Worse, it turned out to be 404 stainless. So the pipe is going to decay over time because it’s a corrosion cell. It’s just the way it is for now. It’s sealed but I’ll have to fix it eventually. I think I’ll go more modular next time with ferrules. Definitely use liquid flux. Very good advice. I used paste flux and that was awful. The advice I would give to someone building a still, especially the one you’re building, make a hefty budget. It’s probably going to be over 100 dollars.

[@BeardedBored]

Stainless steel leaves mental scars, LoL:-)

[@AgeWhiskey]

Love this! Great video as always. Your saran wrap idea was awesome!! Pro tip: when I am working with a lot of solder, I use a dremel tool to sand it down. Speeds up the process. I am not good at solder either. I bought a clawhammer diy kit and had to rebuild many times.

[@BeardedBored]

I thought about my dremel but I was worried about digging onto the pipe. I'll try it next time. Thanks brother!

[@AgeWhiskey]

@@BeardedBored it will for sure. You need to be careful.

[@BeardedBored]

@@AgeWhiskey Thanks man.

[@savagefivenineight9542]

What I use on copper to steel or stainless is Stay Brite 8 solder and Stay-Clean liquid solder flux for a low temp (430-540 degrees) solder. But I really like Stay-Silv 45T or 56 and Stay-Silv White brazing flux. You need more heat (1200-1300 degrees) to get the job done but it works really well.

[@decubanguy]

Great stuff man. 👍👍

[@BeardedBored]

Thanks 👍

[@jamesgrey8093]

I learnened this craft inside the walls

[@puffstastypuffs5192]

Very noice big fella 👌ur diy knows no bounds lol

[@BeardedBored]

Thanks!

[@MrMeasureTwice]

Great video, great tips, safety sally is my best friend!!!

[@BeardedBored]

Safety Squad Unite!

[@RedmanOutdoors366]

Great information Brother 😎👍💯🇺🇲🍺

[@davidmorgan4437]

RidX works great for the first cleaning. Just need to rinse it with water really well.

[@BeardedBored]

Thanks for the tip!

[@marcelgaddis9319]

you could put a small wire wheel on a threaded rod and with that and a drill you could wire brush the inside similar to how you did the outside. just to get rid of heavy solder runs and puddles before doing the cleaning runs. plus it makes the inside as bright and shinny as the outside.

[@BeardedBored]

Cool idea:-)

[@GiC7]

Nice

[@bobbyisaac8003]

Ya might want to try ketchup for shining up copper. Heck of a lot easier.

[@lilymcalister1825]

"A smart person would see this coming"😂😂😂 Thanks for making me laugh right out loud!! I scared my cat!! Ohhh man, that was funny!!

[@JLowe-uu8lr]

Lots of wonderful comments!=8)

[@davefellhoelter1343]

Put your heat where you want your "Silver" solder to flow, counter intuitive, but that's how it works. If you cant find flux, look at electronics type stores! You do NOT need to remove old solder if everything fits and it IS clean!

[@TopoPilot]

Good video. Glad you let us see the “screw ups”. If it weren’t for the “screw ups” my life would be a blank page in history. Sub’d!

[@BeardedBored]

I screw up so you don't have to, LoL:-)

[@Rev-D1963]

Plumbing and soldering copper, something I've done a lot of in my day. Can be a bitch even with careful prep. Looks like you did a great job though with the build, congrats! Thanks again for the great vids!

[@BeardedBored]

Thanks Preacher!

[@JLowe-uu8lr]

Great vid !=8)

[@johnhubbard6262]

Plumbing for over 40 years, couple of things. Your brazes are not bad at all for a non-tradesman. Heat the pipe opposite of where you feed the solder. 2" copper is tough, throw in the stainless and that is just a hat trick. All said and done, you did pretty damn good.

[@johnyz656]

JB weld FDA Approved for food contact. Stable to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Chemical resistant if your ever in a pinch.......or just tig weld it!

[@ThinkFreely2012]

The problem is it resistant to hot alcohol vapor? It's a different animal than just ordinary things like liquid acetone and such.

[@robertlewis3336]

I JB welded my copper parrot together and it works great. That was after discovering I am a horrible solderer.

[@ThinkFreely2012]

@@robertlewis3336 that might be ok in that use. Idk. But on a parrot it's only in contact with cold alcohol which doesn't react the same as hot alcohol vapor in the column.

[@robertlewis3336]

@@ThinkFreely2012 Somebody needs to try it and see

[@BeardedBored]

I'm sure it works great at sealing joints even at high temps, but the concern is that it's an epoxy. The commercial alcohol industry sets the bar very high for what can and can't be in a still based on a material's ability to withstand not only heat, but the mixture of volatile solvent chemicals at operating temperature. If the pro's don't use it, it's best not to risk it. That's why I switched to PTFE gaskets instead of silicone.

[@bbarker2663]

Heating up the copper again until the solder liquefies makes it easier to wipe off but you need gloves to do it. Makes for less sanding. You can also take a fitting brush and stick it in a cordless drill for easy cleaning. You don't need the correct size, either. You can clean everything with a 1/2" brush. It just takes a little longer.

[@boharris8179]

Another tip on cleaning up the copper. Use your paste flux while the parts are still very hot. That a big glob on a brush will make em shine

[@BeardedBored]

Thanks!

[@dominicsanthuff]

Dude I've been thinking about this for two weeks or so for a 75 gallon water boiler I'm making

[@BeardedBored]

Check out the Angry Parrot channel. He converted a 100 gallon hot water heater and he's a pro. Really cool stuff:-)

[@lilymcalister1825]

p.s. LOVE your sense of humor!!😄 Thanks for another great video!! I was hoping to find one about exactly this, soldering copper. Looking forward to making stuff like....water. Very good to know because I have a new still but have been thinking about running a "sacrificial" run because it is brand new and I want to make sure it is clean. Should I also run vinegar through? It is stainless steel except for the worm. Thank you bearded!!🍻🌷

[@bryanmurphy9051]

This was a great commercial for liquid flux.

[@BeardedBored]

Haha, maybe they'll sponsor my next bad soldering video:-)

[@simond3843]

Flux paste will work but u need to paste alot on big joints and heat the large parts first. If u heated from inside the big fittings u would heat the shim u had inside before the outer pipe so the entire joint was hotter

[@paulbyers806]

the reducer in your build could have been what the plumbing industry calls a fitting reducer. it would fit the flange and solder easier. thanks for the vid

[@BeardedBored]

Thanks dude!

[@schawn4925]

Use a flux brush right before it cools, joints will look niceee

[@BeardedBored]

Thanks for the tip

[@ericdreszer7363]

Newbie to newbie, I also went from 2" to 1" on the cap, man did it choke it. Really slow out put, especially with any rise in the 1" Changing to all 2" on cloumn and only reducing going in to line arm now.

[@BeardedBored]

Thanks for the tip! I'll get more practice soldering:-)

[@AM-ll4vd]

Great episode. Were you a shop teacher in another life? My new, and 1st, still arrived last week so this info is very much welcome. Stay safe, Sir!

[@BeardedBored]

Haha! Have fun making essential oils:-)

[@MrZipperhead16]

Use a wet rag to wipe the solder joint on the outside while it's still hot. You can also use flux to clean the black stuff of the joint while it's still hot too.

[@BeardedBored]

Excellent advice!

[@jbowler5716]

I have read down a ways and I didn't see anybody mention this but if you want to get the solder off of those pipes the best thing to do is you can take and heat the pipe and use steel wool and drag it along where the solder is and it will pick the solder up try not to burn the steel wool while you're dragging it across the pipe too badly. Try to use medium to find type steel wool. You could even use the soldering braid or something like that if you have it.

[@josephgraham319]

Cool video, few things on the soldering, suspending the ferrule to solder was correct, too much heat went to the brick. Also should maybe heat the ferrule first.

[@BeardedBored]

Yeah the brick was a massive heat sink.

[@anthonyking2540]

Perks of age,what you don't know,yer buddy does!

[@donavinnezar]

yo the more videos i watch the more ideas im getting for metal bongs first idea was fabricating one at work out of either aluminium or stainless steel and now the second idea would be to make one from copper tubing and solder it together witch really doesnt sound like a horrible idea

[@coreyblackburn9289]

I was wondering if you would come out with a build. Love the new video!!!...

[@BeardedBored]

Thanks!

[@Tonnsfabrication]

First tin the parts with Stay Silv flux and a 56% silver rod then use standard tin antimony based solder to fill the gaps. The silver just sets the base for adhension but will not fill gaps, if its a snug fit you can just silver it in one shot.

[@BeardedBored]

Thanks!

[@shaunmarriott4118]

Dude you are the man love watching you your so funny! When your polishing your column use tomato sauce 🥫 it’s awesome trust me it just needs a bit of elbow grease and it saves you scratching with wire wool. Can’t wait to see it all together and running stay safe I’m just enjoy a rum snatch lol 😂

[@BeardedBored]

Thanks for the advice. Sounds helpful and delicious:-)

[@jvin248]

Big bottle of cheap catsup works too.

[@toddbiskupiak7170]

Easy way to get old solder off is to reheat it and shake it off before sanding. Liquid will flow off faster than files and paper.

[@BeardedBored]

Thanks Todd!

[@owenglass5414]

Hey there, my name is Jon and I'm real glad to meet you! I've been trying to get into distilling since I was a young man but there was no one for me to learn from out in the mountains of northeast California. Now we have KZbin! Anyway I m learning everything I can while I'm waiting on being able to buy a still. I found a company that sells a decent looking kit. American Copper Works. Do you have any recommendations? Thanks for doing this. You are keeping alive a lost tradition. Jon

[@JimiJam24]

When solider builds up where you dont want it, use a flux brush and wipe it away "while its still hot" This way you dont have to do what he did and file it off later after its hard...

[@kelevra213]

after voting on your poll i get recommended your videos again :)

[@kelevra213]

youtube unsubscribed as well. if it wasn't for your poll i would not have found your channel again

[@BeardedBored]

@@kelevra213 Crazy

[@boharris8179]

I tip on soldering heat slowly and the solder will want to run away from high heat. I'm a plumber and do alot of sweat work always heat the thickest parts first, never heat the pipe first, direct you heat mostly on the joint you are soldering and when you remove the flame the temp will still continue to rise for a couple seconds. Once you reach the melting point of the solder STOP HEATING IT!!!! Instead use you flame to maintain the heat by hitting it with the flame and remove it. After you get it joined you can use the flux while it's still hot to remove the black burnt shit with a brush of course.

[@BeardedBored]

Thanks!

[@boharris8179]

@@BeardedBored hey you got an email. Just built a new cap and I make custom parrots ect. Oh check out supplyhouse.com for all your plumbing parts

[@boharris8179]

@@BeardedBored and don't use Chinazon unless absolutely necessary I know it's not Ideal but I've found in alot of instances you can get stuff cheaper and not made in china. Esp on the stainless n copper stuff

[@petewerner1494]

like the term (Wonky),,,,, I use it all the time LOL

[@BeardedBored]

I works so well in this instance:-)

[@lilinguhongo2621]

old vid, but good to check back sometimes... made my 2nd head in the meantime for a ~23 litre/6gal pot, used a kitchen bowl, 2" ferrules and copper flower pots (well, yes...) to get a "scotch whisky type" pot still look - and effect, hopefully. 3/4" condenser inlet. Though I reduced height and went for more diameter in the second attempt, I'm starting above 70% outcome all the time, with 50% on average from a 12% wash. So "low wines" aren't that "low" and I'm afraid to loose aroma with a second run (as I did with my first gin experince). Maybe there shouldn't be further restrictions between the 2" connetion and the 3/4" elbow to the condenser. Think of a quick&dirty/cheap&cheesy solution with the elbow directly on a 2" cap. Not as fancy as the current stuff, but might work better...

[@keithbal0191]

What a bother I had copying Jessie's build, got there in the end. All a learning curve, perseverance is key haha

[@BeardedBored]

Yeah, he really did a great set up. Future goal for me:-)

[@jamesgilbert124]

Every time he says "theoretically," I picture Squirelly Dan chiming in with a perfectly timed "Allegedly."

[@BeardedBored]

"Allegedleys"

[@BeardedBored]

How are ya now?

[@johnfoster9160]

Around 1330, I am like damn you really like your copper!

[@BeardedBored]

;-)

[@Dr.JustIsWrong]

"This my copper, this is my gun.. uhhh.."

[@MadJix]

Great video man! Has to be an acid flux for stainless. Not just liquid. And actually they do sell an acid paste flux but it's pricey. For that shim I would have soldered the shim in place first then the reducer. I would suggest going 4" rather than two. Just speeds runs up allot and when you run 15 gallons of mash at a time it's a huge difference!

[@MadJix]

Also, when you use an acid flux for stainless baking soda bath and scrub to clean it out before running it at all. Rinse rinse rinse too!

[@MawoDuffer]

I think the liquid flux required for stainless and copper has some hydrochloric acid in it if I remember right

[@ThinkFreely2012]

@@MawoDuffer it's a mixture of different acids.

[@BeardedBored]

@@MadJix Great advice!

[@marcelgaddis9319]

@@MawoDuffer Stomach secretions are made up of hydrochloric acid, several enzymes, and a mucus coating that protects the lining of your stomach. Hydrochloric acid helps your body to break down, digest, and absorb nutrients such as protein. It also eliminates bacteria and viruses in the stomach, protecting your body from infection.

[@blackarmored]

citric acid works great for cleaning up flux and copper

[@shawnpierce67]

"That's for later" LOL!!!

[@dogprowilhelm7630]

Use emory cloth, it's more flexible, will last longer and will not tear when sanding. And polish the S.S. flange with Bon Ami, for a mirrored finish. Still willing....

[@Grandpa_RLP]

Okay..... So I have been searching high and low trying to figure out how I was suppose to put a 1 1/2 x 1/2 inch reducer on my 1 1/2 in ferrule. I thought I just ordered the wrong fitting but I guess I have the same situation you did with this reducer and ferrule. So looks like I am going to be putting a solder ring on the inside. I assume so that it melts on the inside to fill in the gap.