BEARHAWK ~ Part 2: Do Not Use Copy Cat Tools! Re-rigged the entire airplane

[@edwardhasiak7961]

Good job. Those connections look great.

[@TheBaldPilot]

Thanks 👍

[@psgflier]

Those NicoPress tools sure make pretty swages. The old ones would probably been fine, but piece of mind is worth a lot when you're at 5000' over no-mans land. Last thing you want to worry about when it goes into auto-rough is a cable failing.

[@TheBaldPilot]

I agree! Thanks for watching!

[@LincolnMolin]

Practice makes perfect right...glad you are happy with the results and it looks like you did a great job. Thanks again for sharing this experience I am sure it will help other builders.

[@TheBaldPilot]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@Project2Aero]

Top notch work my friend!

[@TheBaldPilot]

Thanks so much!

[@sirnewton6874]

100% agree, great decision.

[@TheBaldPilot]

Thank you!

[@scratchbuilder5952]

When I left the RV world of push rod controls for the Bearhawk .. the cable control system was the only thing that I was not so hot on..... thou if done properly like you did there is nothing to worry about.. the Bearhawk has a very good safety record...regardless...all flying Bearhawks except for the factory prototypes have owner built cables....your video underscores the importance of the industry/builders educating each other... big thanks for that It’s all about peace of mind and being able to sleep at night.. So when I get to that stage in my build I’m putting 2 swage blocks on all my wire ends...i know I’ll be laughed at ... but it’s how I’m going to sleep at night not having push rods in my plane...no science to back this up..just the deal I made with myself if I was going to walk away from push rod controls... Plane looks amazing btw...I mean ... it’s a bad ass looking plane... Good work

[@TheBaldPilot]

I read somewhere (I think on the Bearhawk Builders forum) that double swages are ineffective. I don't know but understand the logic. Thanks for the kind words!

[@daverobinsonTnT]

Rob, the reason the turnbuckles were where they were is because it is good design practice to keep all of your cables from being too long as cable stretch and slack increases with cable length. It is also preferential to design and install cable runs such that there is minimum friction in the system. This means that rub strips are there as a 'just in case' when slack increases with time prior to readjustment (tightening). Initial rigging should not be such that rub strips are in constant contact with cables, instead pulley heights should be adjusted to keep cable runs clear; this can be accomplished sometimes by the use of thin sheet placed below the base of pulleys but one has to be careful to maintain clearances throughout the cable run. Very nice work. Enjoy your videos. Looking forward to viewing the next one.

[@TheBaldPilot]

Thank you, Dave. I appreciate your comments. Here is my logic for both of the items you addressed... *Rub blocks...* Most of the Bearhawks have an issue with the control cable at the top of the wing strut. This is the common practice for this situation. No ability to shim the pulley to avoid it. Also, not sure how this rub block is different from a fairlead where no more than 15 degrees of deflection is allowed. *Turnbuckles at the front of the cabin...* As I mentioned in the video, there are many builders that will install their turnbuckle at the rudder arm. I moved mine slightly aft to avoid using a pin and clevis. Nothing wrong with a pin and clevis. Just didn't want to use one. Thanks again!

[@daverobinsonTnT]

@@TheBaldPilot Rob, your reasoning for your choices is good and valid. As we all know, there are no perfect parts (tolerances exist) and thus every installation likely departs from the design ideal, based upon stack up of tolerances - thus the existence of rub strips. 'Cable stretch' is a reality with time and hence the need for adjustable turnbuckles. You have done an exceptional job in your build and you always do things as best you can. You won't be flying 8 hour days every day, as the airliners do, so I'd say you are good to go with your solutions; as they can be easily monitored during your 100 hour inspections. Thanks for taking time out from building and documenting your build. Thanks also for so generously sharing your content (two thumbs up).

[@TheBaldPilot]

@@daverobinsonTnT Thanks, Dave. I appreciate the discussion and all of the points you bring up.

[@jeremysteiner838]

Swages look much better!, This is one beautiful home built airplane, were bilding a rv7 at the moment and love watching your channel

[@TheBaldPilot]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@HisWayHomestead]

peace of mind is priceless!!!

[@TheBaldPilot]

It sure is!

[@justindyster7073]

Love the videos! Learned so much from you as I continue to build mine. Quick question, is there a reason you did not position the nut where you could see it on the Elevator Bell Crank in the tail of the aircraft through the inspection cover?

[@TheBaldPilot]

Glad to hear the videos help, Justin. There are two inspection covers on both sides of the elevator and trim horns. So I can view the bolt heads on one side, and the nuts and cotter pins on the other side. I was only showing the bolt head side in the video. Good question!

[@danielbasovitch5087]

Now ALL the "SWAGES" look very uniform in shape. Unfortunate that you had to do this but Better safe than Oh Sh@#!

[@TheBaldPilot]

It was all worth it!

[@Bang4YerBuck]

Flaps cable routing.. Am interested in building a Patrol, how hard would it be to relocate the flaps control handle in the location the Carbon Cubs have it?

[@TheBaldPilot]

There has been multiple discussions on this in the Bearhawk forum. The short of it is the designer Bob Barrows does not recommend.

[@barbaramarcano9942]

What did your avionics, engine and prop set up run you?

[@TheBaldPilot]

I purchased those items 5 years ago so the prices have changed dramatically since then.