Beavercraft AX1 woods hatchet test & review

In this video I use the AX1 Ukrainian hatchet to split & carve birch wood and process fatwood

[@emanuelroth7960]

Perfect! Thanks for showing the axe, I must get one!

[@forestadventureswithscott8777]

I’m really enjoying it!

[@blackmolfar5994]

Thank you for your support! Greetings from Ukraine!

[@Seamus3051]

Thanks for sharing the kit information, looks like quite a useful tool. Purchase & procurement information would be appreciated. Cheers.

[@forestadventureswithscott8777]

Amazon for this one.

[@davidleasure9138]

Nice review. The ax appears to be a winner

[@forestadventureswithscott8777]

I have enjoyed using it. Great carver for sure.

[@yellowdog762jb]

Nice looking hatchet, thanks for taking the time to make the video. The grain in the handle seems to be running the wrong way. Even the ax pictured on the company's website is that way. I saw another review where the reviewer was really bent out of shape about the grain orientation of the handle. For a small carving hatchet, I don't think that matters at all. If it were a 3/4 to full size felling ax, then yes, I would want the grain running differently. In fact, it looks nice the way they have it, which may be the reason they did that. The first hatchet that I ever rehung has the grain that runs in sort of a diagonal or 45 degree manner. I selected it out of several handles because I thought it was the prettiest, not knowing that it was technically incorrect. But it's on a 1.25 lb. head, so it really doesn't matter much. However, many of the potential users for this ax are bush crafters who may know a little bit about the importance of proper grain orientation in ax handles. And a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing. So if you are insecure, and worry about showing up to a bush crafting class and being "That Guy" with the crappy ax handle, Beware!! LOL! BTW, hickory is the very best ax and hammer handle material. Gransfors Bruk uses hickory. However, ash is not bad, and countless tools made in Europe are handled with ash. I have a thing for vintage Norlund axes. I like their looks and the fact that they were made in the US, plus they have an interesting backstory. That being said, you'll pay more more for just a vintage and rusty Norlund head than you will for the Beavercraft, which includes a mask and belt loop. The American company, Council Tools, makes a "premium" grade carving hatchet with a mask but no belt loop for an MRSP of $130ish. A leather belt loop on Amazon runs about $18. The Beavercraft complete with the mask and belt loop is priced at about $60 on Amazon right now. That's one half the price of the Council Tool, and one third the price of a Gransfors Bruk or Hulks Bruk. For carving wooden spoons around the camp fire, this seems like a very practical choice for a lot of folks. Personally, I'll make a point to pack myself a spoon, then I'll watch you carve one while I put my feet up and sip a single barrel bourbon! If you're nice, I might even pour a bit into your funny looking little wooden cup. ;-)

[@forestadventureswithscott8777]

Yes, this axe was mainly purchased for carving and light kindling splits. I went camping this weekend and used my brother Snow & Nealley axe. Great camp axe!

[@OnceUponAnotherTime]

In a hand ax? You're concerned with grain? It isn't even important in a felling ax. But a 12-inch handle, absolutely no concern at alll

[@WoodsmanHobo777]

1066 is actually tougher than 1095. 1066 is a proper axe steel.

[@OnceUponAnotherTime]

Nicely done. Agree on all points, except a few. You buy special axes to carve spoons? All axes can carve spoons. Everything you demoinstrated with it is as easily (maybe more easily) accomplished with a hardware store ax. You didn't do credit to what this one can do/is. Had mine for months. Never giving it up. First off, I don't do "booosh-craft." I'm not Australianl But I also don't do US woodscraft with it, though easily could. This is my hunting ax., my primary POU. I can trim shooting lanes quickly with it, make a fire at the end of day if I want, and, most importantly, split pelvic bones with it. SHARP and holds and edge. Compact yet SO-OOOO utilitarian.. At first seemed too top heavy for the handle. But within a few minutes of use, not only becomes second nature but preferable. Small, compact and out of the way as a belt ax while hunting. So odd head weight to handle length ratio, but I preferred it to my other hand axes in about 0.8 seconds of acdtual use. I LOVE this ax! Not only have one for myself, but I've been buying them as Christmas presents. (Needs very little touchup to the edge. My preference? Don't convex such a small ax. Think more in lines of knife edge (you're not felling or bucking trees with this). 18 to 15 deg. is a nice flat grind on this. Afterall, you're not putting this on a baseball bat (felling ax) and driving it into a tree. Think of this Ukrainian hand ax as a brute-force knife (if you call it a hatchet again, I'll slap you). Think kindling/tender, carving, field dressing deer/elk/moose, bone slicing, skinning and tasks along these lines. Sweet look, great performance. Sharp as hell and stays sharp. MINE! (And yours, too -- but only if I like you and you're family. Otherwise, GET YOUR OWN!). Read up on the company. Their carving tools may be so-so, "good enough." But this one-off ax they went out of their way to create --- BUT IT!!! It's crazy nuts.