How To OVERWINTER Your Beehive SUCCESSFULLY

As a beekeeper we start thinking about winter in July and August. Time really flies but here we are going into September looking at what methods we will use to overwinter our colonies. This will be my 3rd winter with bees and so far I have never lost a colony. So here are the tips and tricks I have used to guarantee a successful overwintering experiences. Happy to have you here and thanks for watching fam :)
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beekeeping, beekeeping 101, how to, overwintering beehives, northern climate, Michigan beekeeping, beekeeping tips and tricks.

[@phillee2814]

One slight misconception - wet air is dense, warm air is not, so as the wet, warm air rises from the cluster it will reach the roof and spread out, and if the roof is well insulated and NOT vented, it will spread to the walls, which if not insulated will condense water from the air on the sides, giving the bees a water source without having to venture outside (without a water source they would dehydrate just from breathing). As the moisture condenses, it takes the heat with it, allowing the cooling air to fall (being high in CO2 from the bees' respiration helps, as CO2 is heavier than air). It can then be easily vented through the front entrance, which needs to be small enough to prevent mice and other intruders from wintering in the hive and stealing resources. All this has been tested and confirmed by Frederick Dunn in comparative studies. Insulation at the top is totally undermined by any top entrance, and if the bees are allowed, they will propolise and seal top entrances and vents. In the (very successful) feral colonies they only have one entrance, so why force a change on them? Cracking the propolis envelope when the seal has been made cannot be repaired by the bees when it is cold and the propolis too hard to work, so much better not to do that. Plain dry granulated white sugar is fine as winter feed, as long as water is available in the form of condensation on the walls, where it cannot drip onto the cluster - any excess will just run down and out of the front entrance.

[@2timbukk]

I disagree with this. First off bees do not breath. Secondly I’ve studied my hives over the winters both with a 2” insulation board on top and without and I can definitely say that this definitely stops the cold roof warm air at ceiling of hive condensation! I agree with her point on this and have done this for several years with great success. I’m on the indiana Michigan border.

[@phillee2814]

@@2timbukk Bees do breathe - just not through their mouths but through the spiracles in their abdomens. You can observe this easily in the constant pulsating of their abdomens. Otherwise, you could not drown them in a mite-wash, or produce enough moisture in the air to cause condensation in the hive. Therefore they need to replace the moisture lost in this so need some water in the hive. The roof insulation, as you say, is vital (the more the merrier) as it means the condensation point is moved to the sides, where it cannot drip onto the cluster. If you don't see any at all it is because the bees are drinking it!

[@beefitbeekeeping]

I did experiment with both methods last winter. One hive had closed bottom board with entrance reducer & a top entrance. Another hive the same but no top entrance. All 3 of my hives had that insulation foam up top. None were insulated on the sides and all of my hives made it. I have read about other beekeepers mentioning that yes the bees do need water since they can’t leave the hive to get it and all water will be frozen outside anyway. One of the reasons candy boards without an upper entrance also work well bc the moisture will soften the candy making it easier for the bees to eat. Just like you say with the dry sugar. They do need water. I may run both ways again this year to see which has higher odds of survival. I believe Dunn’s research.

[@beefitbeekeeping]

Thank you for your scientific approach to how hot, cold, humid air and co2 all work. That’s right up my alley so is great info thank you

[@beefitbeekeeping]

So that sounds like it is good reason not to have to insulate the sides of your hives but to definitely insulate the top.

[@windyacrebees]

Great video, you are spot on with all you said here. We keep screen bottoms on all winter with small upper entrances which creates air pressure inside keeping moisture moving out yet maintaining the temps inside created by the bees,,they heat the cluster not the hive..

[@beefitbeekeeping]

Thank you for sharing this. I’ve never thought about creating air pressure inside! ☺️

[@windyacrebees]

It's kind of like blowing up a balloon with a pin hole in it the air leaks out slowly allowing moisture to escape yet if you keep putting air into the balloon it keeps the pressure in there so there is always fresh air coming in but at a slow pace which is kind of what we would want when it gets cold,,😁

[@sarashappyhives1828]

Last year here in southern Indiana, I wrapped my boxes in a single layer of tar paper, used a sugar board (that’s insurance in case they eat through their honey and a lot of times they just take it out like trash 😂) and a quilt box with wood chips in it on top. I had 11 out of 12 make it! So far I’m at 21 strong colonies getting ready to go into winter. Let’s have a successful winter season! 😊

[@beefitbeekeeping]

🤣 That is wonderful! Good to hear! Those sugar boards are great, they help suck up some of the moisture as well.

[@thehturt5480]

You know things and explain clearly. Like it 😊🐝

[@beefitbeekeeping]

That’s what I try my best to do. Explain clearly so the viewer can easily understand ☺️ thank you!!

[@carolannjacques268]

Great info!

[@beefitbeekeeping]

Thank ya ☺️ hope it helps!

[@vladimirstajcic6451]

Nice, on the spot.

[@beefitbeekeeping]

☺️♥️ thanks for watching!

[@heavymechanic2]

Last year I made sugar brick with a 1x2 feeder rim, after Feb I started adding a little pollen sub to the mix (like 2-4% winter patty). I also used 1/2 foam board under the top cover, its all the local Lowes had in stock. Also tried a Winter Innercover/candy board from mannLake, the wood feeder cover is great but the insulation is way overpriced as you can cut a piece from the building supply, it has a groove to the center. Early spring, there was some wicked cold wind, I just wrapped the boxes with a moving blanket to avoid flash freezing brood, it really helped save the hives.. This year, I'm having mostly double deep boxes to have a better wither survival chance. My NUC boxes have brand new queens, I plan to wrap them with R6 HVAC insulation (similar to a cozy) because wind is a problem here (SW Virginia) and I had some problems with froze bees after a storm last January.

[@beefitbeekeeping]

Yikes 🥶 thank you for sharing that with me! Very appreciated. I screenshotted it for later referencing ☺️

[@williamobrien2107]

Fredrick Dunn suggested on his podcast that we check you out and I am glad that he did. I really enjoyed your video and look forward to watching more. I do not use treatments but other than that your recommendations work well with my program. I was out of beekeeping for about 6 years but a feral colony showed up in a hive that I left up and they are very strong going into the fall here in NE Ohio. That has sucked me in and I am looking forward to a successful overwintering and then expansion of the apiary in the spring.

[@beefitbeekeeping]

I wish you the best of luck ☺️ this is the last year I will be using treatments. Bringing in better genetics in the spring and will be going fully 100% treatment free. Going to take a shot at breeding mite resistant bees so we’ll see how it goes!! Happy to have ya! Fred is so kind ♥️♥️☺️

[@williamobrien2107]

@@beefitbeekeeping oh that is wonderful. Glad to share experiences and learnings if that will help. My biggest risk right now is going into winter with just one hive. I se a bee breeder in Medina, OH that you might want to contact for queens/nucs. She has a biology background and uses to work at Bee Culture. She has quite an elaborate genetic program going on, with carefully picked genetics for northern climates. Let me know if you would like to be connected to her.

[@emilandrusko8597]

Thanks for sharing. appreciate the tips. The challenge I am having this year in SE PA is that we have had temps in the 90's since July. So treating for Mites had to be delayed.

[@beefitbeekeeping]

Yep that is the struggle! We’ve lucked out with a cooler summer over in MI but usually I’m struggling to find 3 days too

[@dcsblessedbees]

I like the new music on this 1. A lot of your winter food consumption can also depend on the type of bee you are running like Italian vs Carni, or Hybrids. I hear the Italians are more prone to winter/spring starving then your colder climate lines. I guess it in a large part to the Italians brooding up larger going into winter and then in spring they eat themselves out of house and home. Dang were did you get all the cinder-blocks lol that's a lot of blocks. The wood chips are actually used to pull the moisture out of the hive when on top. Then you have small venting to to dry the chips, the same way the insulation and vents in your attic works. You are correct that the insulation board will provide the same function, it's just a newer form of the same technique. Should work great for you in Michigan, lol wet and cold winters. Ty for sharing your time, great video. Blessed Days...

[@beefitbeekeeping]

Ahh see the vent makes the wood chips work. Without that vent tho those chips will hold the moisture in the hive so that vent is crucial. Good to know 😊 there are so many different ways to over winter. Yes genetics definitely play a role in food consumption! I’m interested to see how my saskatraz do this winter supposed to be bred for that. Yep had to haul in all of those blocks 😅 been throwing some on pallets with tires so we will see how those go as well with the snow. Thanks for sharing your time ♥️

[@dcsblessedbees]

@@beefitbeekeeping You are on the right track, basically your just updating the form of the insulation material. It should work better for you there in Michigan with out wet/cold your winters can be.

[@TheSoilandGreen]

Michigan is crazy cold. We had a 90 mph wind storm. Make sure you tilt towards the front door slightly.

[@beefitbeekeeping]

90mph?!?!?!?!!!! Geesh that’s bad! I’m down in a little pocket below the lake so for the most part we are in a way shielded from the winds but we usually get dumped on with lake effect

[@vancetilley7942]

“Wet bees are dead bees.” 🐝 One thing I do is wrap duct tape along the edges of the foam board used above the inner-cover. This stops the foam’s edges and corners from degrading when it comes in contact with sticky propolis, and greatly increases the life of my foam boards. You guys up in the Northern Hemisphere have had the summer sun long enough. The Southern Hemisphere will be taking it back now, thank you. 😀

[@beefitbeekeeping]

🤣🤣 soak up those sun rays for us bc we will definitely miss them! ☺️ the duct tape is genius. Good thinking! I will be using that!

[@vancetilley7942]

@@beefitbeekeeping A quick video I made about condensation and insulating the top of the hive (similar to roof insulation in your house analogy): kzbin.info/www/bejne/aIKqnqOcmL6LZqc . All the temps are metric. (10c = 50F). 🌞We'll be done using the sun, and its longer days, down here around March or so. We'll take good care of it, and will gladly be giving it back to you then... 😎 ☀🏝

[@russellkoopman3004]

I think the first two points, mite control and food, will give you a good survival rate over winter. I've overwintered bees in central MN for 3 years now and last year I lost my first hive - due to Sept. swarm and low bee numbers. I put multiple bee hives together on a stand. All seams between hive bodies are taped with painters tape to ensure no drafts. The pack of three or four hives are slid against each other and then wrapped with one inch Styrofoam on three sides with a quilt box on top. The front is insulated with 1/2" foam which is where I want the moist air to condense and then drip out the front on warmer days. No upper entrance is needed. This is my way now but gets modified every year a bit.

[@chrisr7746]

I’m gonna be in Michigan next couple weekends would love to help out or just see what you do first hand. If this is something you would do let me know. Thanks for all the educational information you give it’s awesome thanks

[@tonytango6676]

Mice love straw bales which me and possibly get into the hives. I would put foam on the bottom and all four sides of the hive and twice as much foam on the roof.

[@caseyoutdoors3897]

I live in Midwestern Indiana. I am a first year beekeeper I have a super with a Is 2 part square feeder. Do you suggest I put dry sugar in that super for my bees this Winter. Thank you for the video and God-bless.

[@2timbukk]

Northern Indiana/Michigan border here and I use 2” pink panther insulation board on top of all hives through winter and it definitely stops most of this moisture developing on the ceiling. I’ve done this for a few years with great success. I put the board on top of a shim/sugar board or directly on top of the inner cover that has front notch upper entrance.

[@beefitbeekeeping]

Exactly how I place mine as well! It hasn’t failed me yet ☺️

[@2timbukk]

@@beefitbeekeeping ♥️

[@ncut5547]

Nice to view your video but if watt u saying is right for it to be done in August maybe we should've had this video couple of weeks ago ...appreciate your input thk very much for your time hopefully we can come back to a living hive after the winter thks ..

[@beefitbeekeeping]

Ha! Yeah I know. The best I can do while trying to build a business while still working to pay the bills 🤷🏼‍♀️ hope the info helps!

[@parkinsonga3092]

I notice that you want to breed mite resistant bees. I don't have a mite problem but I put it down to not having my bees, being in hives with metal legs. I use a mesh base so that anything that falls off goes directly to the ground. It wastes a bit of pollen, but I can see buy the pollen fall underneath the hive how much they are bringing in. I live in the North of the UK and it's just too wet and damp for wooden or concrete stands. And finally I don't block up the floor for the autumn and winter, it's too long the autumn rains have started and won't stop until March.

[@beefitbeekeeping]

Screen bottoms definitely do help with mites I have noticed this. Interesting way of overwintering! In such a wet climate you have to find other ways and it sounds like you’ve got it nailed ☺️

[@jimromano4337]

Great info. I asked you before but don’t remember. I treated with mite away strips. I had 5 mites with sugar roll. After the 7 day I had 4. When should I treat again thanks

[@beefitbeekeeping]

May not need to treat again. Depends on the treatment you are using. If you are going to use OA I would wait until the colony is brood-less in December. Apiguard would have to use now bc it doesn’t work well in colder temps, Apivar you can use whenever as long as you aren’t going to be extracting any honey from them.

[@jimromano4337]

@@beefitbeekeeping I have on back order the strips you insert between the frames. But have received them yet. Do recommend the mite away quick strips for 7 days. Hey is the Formic pro better then mite away quick strips. Last question if I want to use the apivar what is the latest to start them. I think they stay up to 54 days

[@wadekolbe429]

You some great info. I like your videos. I am going to start some beehives. I think it will be fun and educational. Thank so much for the videos.

[@beefitbeekeeping]

Thank YOU for watching! And the best of luck to ya, beekeeping is a lot of fun but I must warn you it is very addictive 🤣🤣🤣 so be prepared or get out while ya can 🏃‍♀️💨😂😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣

[@francisbrookhouse5595]

Where are you located at and what day of the month and what month are you talking would be nice to know each time you are talking I am a 6 to 8 year beekeeper have took care of bees for quite a while I have 29 hives I enjoy watching other beekeepers to see what they run into how to do this and that it's interesting I'm located in good old Southern Illinois

[@beefitbeekeeping]

We can all learn from each other that’s what makes it fun and yes very interesting 😊 Michigan, August 26th

[@CMPearrow]

Your hive is l awning to the left !

[@charliegioe3158]

What part of north do you live in

[@beefitbeekeeping]

Southwest MI 😊

[@charliegioe3158]

@@beefitbeekeeping ok Northeast PA

[@carlsledge3868]

Wait, I though you a treatment free advocate, if so how do you intend reduce the mite load in your hives and stay treatment free? And yes bees do breath, all you have do to know this is watch their abdomen it is constantly pulsating those are breaths they breathe through tiny ports on the sides of their abdomen. I'm smart enough to know my bees have varroa mites and since all my colonies are on one common metal stand, only 2" apart I know I have colony drift, and since don't sell any fall honey, it's all going to the bees my double deeps will have around 130 pounds each to over winter on and I'm a 120 miles south of Atlanta, I just did a Randy Oliver OAE sponge treatment for all of my colonies using 75g of OA desolved in 75g of vegetable glycerin heated to 155f then poured over swedish sponges cut in half per 10 frames of brood in my 4 double deeps and 1/2 that in my 3 5 frame nuks, which is just cutting the sponges into 1/4s rather than 1/2s, I let them cool 24 hours sealed up in a LOCK&LOCK plastic 1.9L box that's a perfect fit for cut in half sponges, flipping over several times, so they absorb the liquid equally, then lay them in a cool dark place to dry of any excess water for 24 hours, it's then time to install, the easiest way to install if you don't want to inspect the bottom boxes on double deeps and I didn't because I have brood still on several frames in my top boxes still, so I know they're queen right, I just pull out 3 or4 frames in the middle of the top box to give room to clean burr comb off the bottom frames and lay two sponge 1/2s over the main brood area, the nuks are easy they get 2 of the 1/4 stripes laid diagonally over the brood, these will stay on for 60 days and since it's the slow release method that's 2 complete brood cycles plus a little, I should have 0 mites come late October and that's when they'll be almost nothing for the bees to work except wild turnips and early dandelion blooms, Yeah I know you guys are thinking I'm crazy for putting 456g of OA in 60 frames of brood, but I have no choice if I don't kill the mites I'll have 7 dead outs come spring rather than making 10 viable splits, also I'd remind you that every frame in every colony I treated was marked in red on the top bars OA so I know they're for brood use only, I'll be buying all new equipment for spring honey flows.

[@beefitbeekeeping]

I am a treatment free advocate but it is not something that can happen over night. It is something that has to be worked towards by bringing in better genetics and I know the majority of people are not treatment free so these are the tips I have learned over the last 3 years. Since it is late in the year I won’t be bringing in better genetics this year but in the spring I will be and will be able to go fully treatment free. I will be showing all of that processes and how I convert over successfully. Thank you for sharing your method for treating! I have yet to try OA. There are so many ways to use it!

[@carlsledge3868]

@@beefitbeekeeping Smiling at your comment, yes think we all want to be treatment free, as you say that's a goal we all strive for in the futue, at least most of us do, Cory Stevens is working hard to try and isolate the DNA traits for Apis Mellifara to make VSH genetics in AI breeder queens, I follow his channel and it's only 3 points in the massive DNA that must be turned on to achieve VSH genetics, but the main problem is getting those gene points to be passed on to the daughters is where he hasn't mastered yet,at present he's having a really high test rate though. I also follow Randy Oliver who also breeding his lowest mite count queens to achieve this goal as well, he uses queens from a yard of 140 colonies that test 0s or 1 mite only, you should also look into the Pol-line 2.2 genetics they've been bred for over 25 years to have varroa mite resistance, I also follow some UK beeks that claim if you can find some pure Apis Mellifara Mellifara bees and put them on small cell foundation, they never need mite treatments, I follow Black Mountain Honey channel for that, he supposedly has a hive of those he testing in the same yard of Buckfast bees, I still think the fastest way to achieve VSH genetics is to dedicate several colonies to raising VSH genetics drones and flood your zone with drones, since they only have one parent, the queen. As to my method, I like it because it's a one time deal and you don't have to buy an expensive vaporizer or wear an expensive respirator to apply it and it covers 2 complete brood cycles even drones as well and yes my bees are still raising drones, not as many as with the spring buildup, but still a few here and there in corners of bottoms of brood frames.

[@benjaminmeadows1380]

See Emily we have hurricane coming bu/may not be bad but Tampa might get it bad

[@apiedoe]

Just to be clear 18 to 19 pounds or 80 to 90 pounds, how is it in grams?

[@beefitbeekeeping]

80-90 pounds or 36-41kg

[@johnn1a2]

Hi from central Ontario. I only keep single brood box only. Use 2 inch styrofoam board on top of brood box. I always have insulation on top of hives summer and winter. Never wrap my hives. My bottom boards don’t have landing deck completely flush. At times box is buried in snow up to ventilation hole. Not worried cuz internal heat keeps entrance clear a cpl inches and bees can drop bees over edge. I hate the deck at entrance snow accumulates melts and bees walk on it. And snow is an awsome insulator. Check Paul Kelly University of Guelph Ontario to see bottom board plus use cloth 100 percent cotton inner cover. . I’m happy with 50-60 lbs in my single box. Always keep hive tilted so excess moisture can leak out, through winter will remove outer cover with few fingers lift hive a little get great read on stores. I don’t use scales in fall if there is difficulty in tilting hive it’s good. Never lost hive to starvation. March and April and May is when lots off beekeepers lose their hives to starvation. Dec Jan Feb my singles still very heavy.

[@rickabrams3422]

great post thanks. do you overwinter with top entrance open or closed?

[@beefitbeekeeping]

This is great info! Thank you for sharing. I’ve been wondering if northern climates can overwinter singles so it is good to know that they can. The bees must adapt their food stores/nest size and quantity of bees according to the size of the space when going into winter and raising brood in the spring.

[@johnn1a2]

@@rickabrams3422 Yes top entrance open for ventilation and if snow gets too deep.

[@johnn1a2]

@@beefitbeekeeping correct, my 7th yr with these lovely creatures. First year had and wintered dbls thought never again. Singles all round make life exponentially easier, hive inspections quick etc. queen crowded I will move 3 frames capped brood up in honey super. Same when honey bounded so much easier than having to go through 20 frames to evaluate health of colony’s. Many commercial and hobby beekeepers are using single brood.

[@robinfrazier5940]

Well I'd like to know what university that you teach at other than your backyard this is old Rob

[@zcsaba77]

July-August mite treatment is important, BUT without october-november treatment is risky, because queen stop laying eggs, and female mites came out, and this is time for close treatment, when queen laying 95% mites in brood just you can kill 5% of them, 80-90pounds (35-40kg) for feed for winter? it is imposible and risky, imposible if you have 20 frames bees can store in one frame around 5,5-6 pound fully caped, teoritecaly can store 120 pound, but if you fully store in august, queen cant lay egg to october, and they cant hide in comb, they need larger volume, and will freeze (die), in bottom box frame with honey they will eat if feel enough warm, usualy in early spring, I beekeepning 20 years, and just final 5 years I understood, it is not same have lot of sugar honey, and wait for harvesting, or give them enough for winter and start on right time feed in spring, not much, in small doze, 1/2-1pint sugar syrup in begining 3 days later daily, which hive consume fast, they will better then other on harvesting, I wintering in two box, but in bottom one put 2 frame less, let ventilating hive, bottom usualy water condensing, but top box is dry, I dont say never lost colony, but which colony stay alive, they will fit

[@benjaminmeadows1380]

Hey fro florida I'm been treating mites just rough wether hurricane season just lot rain all yeah my name Benny 😅

[@beefitbeekeeping]

Ooooof hurricanes. You must have some methods to keep your hives protected and from blowing over?

[@benjaminmeadows1380]

@@beefitbeekeeping yes I do ratchet down hopefully no hurricane s this year we almost to peak of season 5 years ago we had 1 but hug gulf of Mexico alim about 80 miles west Daytona

[@stevenkawano9746]

Holy🐄🐄80-90 pounds of food🤯Totally makes sense tho Definitely want to Overfeed than Underfeed, Always the Responsible Keeper😊That was Super interesting about the insulation I would Neve have thought of that, the insulation here is Terrible this old house Soaks up the heat during the day so even when it is cooler outside the house is still🥵and the attice crawlspace is like a sauna so Brilliant idea with the little vent/entrance/exit uve Seriously thought of Everything and if ur little friends could talk I seriously doubt they would have Any complaints!😁#happybeescomefrommichigan💛 Well Thank U for another Fascinating video and for taking us along on ur ever evolving journey I wouldn't miss it for the🌎👏💛Take care and see U in the next one my Favorite Keeper☺️#emilyisthebeesknees #beefitbeekeeping #beefithoney #insulate #michiganbees #happybees #myfavoritekeeper

[@beefitbeekeeping]

My house is the same, terrible insulation. Needs to be re-done. But I’m lucky I don’t live in CA where it’s hot all of the time 😉 or maybe not so lucky bc we have winters here 😞🤣 thanks for watching! As always I am happy to have ya here!

[@carlsledge3868]

Sorry to pick on you northern snowbird beekeepers, my bees can fly more than 1/2 the days of every month in the year, Michael Palmer keeps an average of 1500 colonies over-wintered in Vermont's way longer and way colder winters than you with 2 feet of snow around then for several months, he stacks them up with enough stores to make it through and wraps them in 1 layer of tar paper, his key is a 1&1/4" round hole in top box, for water vapor to escape, he'll tell he walks through his apiaries and knocks off the ice cycles that formed. Watch his videos, I'm sure you will find how to overwinter your bees, I'm going to the reflexit mylar inner covers this fall,, because where I am we have more hot than cold months, our winter is in late Feb. most years, but my bees will start bringing in pollen when it's warm days and they can fly.

[@beefitbeekeeping]

I’m jealous you get to work with your bees all year long! Yes Michael Palmer is great!

[@carlsledge3868]

We ha a few below freezing nights this early spring, the worst one was 26f that night but 46f that day we usually only get sustained cold when the jet goes down around Key West for a bit and we get the bomb cyclone effects coming down from Canada.

[@carlsledge3868]

@@beefitbeekeeping I see you're using some of Michael's techniques of putting nuks together to share heat you can buy 1/2" styro board with metal foil on one side for around $18 per 48" X 96" sheet @ Lowes or Home Depot, that makes great inner cover and easily cut with a razor knife., also make a great wind screen for windy side of your hives