Beginner Guide to Airbrushes & Compressors incl. Cleaning

[@EdouardBernard24601]

Just starting to use an airbrush (or wanting to get started with my airbrush) and I've spent the better part of the afternoon watching KZbin videos on how to clean, use, repair, disassemble them, etc... This is the best of the lot and if I had to recommend a YT video about airbrushes to anyone, I'd recommend this one. Thank you so much. You've just made my life so much easier.

[@gurufoxx]

Thank you, I am glad it helped you figure it out ^_^ Just remember airbrushing is like trying to describe how you tie shoelaces - it sounds a lot more complex than it is compared to the actual act of doing it ^_^

[@glebermoura5865]

Most educational and complete tutorial ever made for beginners airbrush. Thank you, sir.

[@JoseDiaz-pn6gp]

Amazing video, I learned so much, now feel more comfortable in going out and purchasing my first airbrush and compressor.

[@jamesschrom317]

What a great video! Usually I have a hard time understanding British people speaking. To me they talk way too fast but you were very easy to understand and no music playing.

[@gurufoxx]

Thanks! I'm glad it was helpful ^_^

[@MileyonDisney]

Great video. You pretty much covered everything a person needs to know about an airbrush. Thanks!

[@gurufoxx]

Thanks, glad it was helpful ^_^

[@qualityquilts7829]

Thank you so much for your very in-depth description of how to clean the airbrush. I've had mine for 3 weeks and have been afraid to use it fearing that I would break it. I followed along with your demonstration and it worked perfectly.

[@gurufoxx]

No worries, that’s why I did it ^_^

[@glencwilson]

Always sceptical when someone calls themselves a guru. Currently debating on getting an airbrush so looking for information before buying and this has been very helpful. Not just for what to get but also the cleaning and the parts that make up the brush too. I really liked the content and the style of presentation. Good balance for the beginner and assumes a level of ignorance without going becoming patronising. Thank you.

[@gurufoxx]

Thank you - I'm glad you found it helpful ^_^

[@davidrobinson4118]

I'm in the market for a airbrush set up having dabbled on and off with the hobby over the years, using only brushes though. I've finished work now and have the luxury of more spare time so I want to go a bit further with the hobby. Been watching similar videos to get a feel for the subject and yours is up there with the best of the others I've seen with advice, for people like me, who are novices to the scene. Great stuff. I've subscribed to your channel and look forward to watching and learning from your other videos. Take care my friend.

[@gurufoxx]

Thanks! Glad it was useful and I appreciate the sub ^_^

[@benadrylthundercrotch7144]

Some dummy told me years ago that I couldn't get a decent compressor for less than $300-400 and it turned me off of the idea until now. Thanks for clearing that away and inspiring me to look into this again. Also, screw you for giving me another thing to buy :)

[@gurufoxx]

Ha ha you are welcome! Have a browse through my Amazon store; there's a few goodly compressor options :) www.amazon.com/shop/modelmakingguru

[@kiwicory100]

I know this is 4 yrs later but it is excellent!

[@gurufoxx]

Never too late! Thanks ^_^

[@chrisgriffith1573]

The "cleaner" is more potent than thinners are, very stringent. Always run some thinner back through the brush following your cleaner, otherwise, any of that residue from a cleaner will taint your paint mix, dulling the finish of your paint mix.

[@marianomv13]

I wish I would have seen this video 10 years ago when I started with the airbrush. Still a great and thorough walkthrough!

[@michaeldalton470]

sorry to be so offtopic but does anyone know a tool to log back into an instagram account?? I was dumb lost the password. I love any assistance you can give me.

[@rayeugene8139]

@Michael Dalton Instablaster =)

[@michaeldalton470]

@Ray Eugene i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later with my results.

[@michaeldalton470]

@Ray Eugene It worked and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy! Thanks so much, you saved my ass !

[@rayeugene8139]

@Michael Dalton No problem xD

[@group4taker]

had just tried my airbrush for the first time, knew nothing about it, had trouble with the paint flow,turned out to be a little blockage. But after watching your video was able to sort the problem and it works fine now, learned a good bit about it's use and care. Cheers for that...

[@gurufoxx]

Excellent! Glad I helped out :)

[@TheNoisyNinja72]

Brilliant video mate. Relatively new to the hobby, and after a year or so of using rattle cans, I'm keen to get an airbrush. Great to see this video beforehand!

[@gurufoxx]

Thanks, glad it was helpful ^_^

[@budbowen9743]

Very informative and helpful in making up my mind what i really need instead of what I think I need. I also learned, ( from another youtube post) that as a beginner, you can shoot food coloring through your airbrush onto hard stock or cardboard to get familiar without having to worry too much about mixing or diluting, just to get techniques perfected without wasting paint and of course clean up is a breeze with food coloring.

[@gurufoxx]

Yep, you can spray pretty much anything :) Ignore all thinning and dilution advice and percentages - just get your paints to the consistency of skimmed milk, that's as much as you need to think about it :)

[@effindave6909]

Just picked up my first airbrush (Grex TG3) and this was super informative. Thanks a ton.

[@gurufoxx]

You are welcome :)

[@jeffholliman7897]

Loved the Video! I have recently gotten into 3D printing and have been thinking about being able to paint some prints. Ever since I was little, I have been interested in an airbrush but never got one. I am going to look into getting the trigger gun as well as the compressor. You are a great instructor and I found your video very easy to follow and quite informative.

[@gurufoxx]

Thanks! I think you'll have fun, but remember that although the leaning curve might seem steep, it is mercifully short ^_^

[@timmulhern8188]

Kudos. Excellent, professional presentation.

[@gurufoxx]

Thank you :)

[@dobiqwolf]

Thank you, I used your video to clean my airbrush today after its first use. I have now subscribe and will check your older videos too. Please keep releasing similar guides for beginners.

[@gurufoxx]

Thank you , glad it was helpful, and thanks for the sub!

[@johnbayliss7124]

Just watching this as i have mr hobby trigger grip .3 and .5 guns defo gonna help me know how to clean then. Am new to airbrushing

[@andrewnugent1442]

I was always a keen modeler as a kid - now I'm returning to it in my fifties and have just bought my first airbrush. This video has been an excellent introduction and explanation for me. the beginner kit I've bought (DKiei T200K) has effectively NO instructions and I was utterly bewildered initially but this video has helped enormously. Thank you, great work.

[@gurufoxx]

No worries, you are more than welcome! Welcome back to the hobby :)

[@davidgreen5099]

What kit is your first?

[@gurufoxx]

@@davidgreen5099 The first kit I ever painted was a Tamiya 1/35 T-62A tank, way back in the mid 1980s.

[@woot1304]

Absolutelly have to watch this video if you are just starting out, awesome vid m8, gr8 job! Subscribed! keep em coming

[@gurufoxx]

Thank you :)

[@gtanusetiawan]

Thanks for the video! Just got my 1st beginner airbrush/compressor. And this video helps me by giving some insight so i don't go in blind~

[@gurufoxx]

You are welcome, thank you :)

[@BradTracy1]

Thanks for the tutorial, learned quiet a bit from the video. I have the TRN1, bought yesterday, I have another which is a suction feed and have used it before. I would rather use the gravity flow airbrush from now on.

[@josephjohnpalarca5301]

Thank you for another fantastic video! Beginners like me really appreciate the work.

[@gurufoxx]

Thank you, my pleasure :)

[@XxbeyblademasterxX]

The most entertaining bit 8n this video is how you say you don't need the technical nonsense meanwhile everyone else is like "blah blah blah dark arts this blah blah blah hard af that blah blah". I find your take on it quite refreshing and more welcoming.

[@gurufoxx]

As far as I am concerned, 95% of modelmaking is shrouded in mystery when it does not need to be, and that's kind of my animus - to show the viewer that they can do it too, with a little practice. The only hard skills needed are knowing what everything does and how it can be used, other than that, it is just happy playtiemz. Some presenters like to make out that they are the BIG MAN and master of some arcane art, but I don't much care for that. I am an offiicial, card-carrying idiot, so if I can figure it out, anyone can. Don't even get me started on fools that insist on specific paint thinning ratios for airbrushing!

[@XxbeyblademasterxX]

Modelmaking Guru and that's what I like about you, no rivet counting, no bitching about different methods, and certainly no drama. You're just fun and funny, a good presenter, and I wouldn't have it any other way! Can't wait for your next video!

[@gurufoxx]

Thanks, duder! That will be up shortly ^_^

[@ARescueToaster]

I've always been interested in airbrushes, but I always found the top button control style fairly inconvenient (big, clumsy hands, hand strain, etc), and didn't know there were brushes with triggers on them. I'm going to have to look at airbrushes again and see if that's something I want to really get into. Thanks for this video, it appears quite helpful and I'll be sure to apply what I've seen if I do decide to get into it!

[@gurufoxx]

Yup, you might find find triggers MUCH easier to use, less painful and a more natural hand position to prevent strain :)

[@ARescueToaster]

​@@gurufoxx Thanks for the response! I hope you don't mind if I bounce a few questions off you! *1)* Do you happen to know of any decent, affordable airbrushes that do have triggers like that? I was told to look up the Sotar 2020, but noticed that doesn't have a trigger.. it has really good reviews on Amazon, so I may still try it out if I end up enjoying airbrushing. *2)* What sort of uses can you think of for an airbrush outside of painting models? I've heard of using them for makeup and painting faces / shirts / other sorts of painting of clothing items (not really my thing), but are there other, handy, around-the-house type uses for one? *3)* Besides an airbrush and air source, are there any other required products in the daily use of an airbrush? Specific cables, thinners, cleaners, etc.? (Trying to figure out what the entry price will be!) I'm thinking of buying a compressor with a tank (would like a tank if possible) on Amazon. I'm looking at this one for ~$60: a.co/d/iWHA4oS (which actually is the one you showed in this video now that I re-watch this!) I'm thinking that buying it separately will allow me to pick out a specific, middle range airbrush that I actually want instead paying more for a bundle and getting some potentially crappy thing bundled in Thanks again for the response and I hope I'm not being too annoying with all the questions!

[@gurufoxx]

No worries! I am not that familiar with the Badger range of brushes, although they are excellent. My go-to is the Neo for Iwata which I ADORE and is super-simple to use. As a beginner, you want everything to be nice and straightforward and not a barrier to entry: amzn.to/2OWpVeg You an use an airbrush for pretty much anything where you need to spray, although it will be better suited for small jobs and thin liquids such as nails, make-up, any kind of art or crafts. Airbrushes have been used in traditional 2-D art since forever. You would want to invest in thinners for whatever paints you use, although if you are painting models you might like to start out with paints pre-thinned for airbrush use such as the Vallejo Model Air range. You also need cleaner to clean out the airbrush - you can use either thinners again, or specific airbrush cleaning products such as Medea Airbrush Cleaner. A set of airbrush cleaning brushes would also be a great time saver, and you can also use simple interdental brushes that you can get frmo your dentist. If you plan on painting a lot, then you may want to grab a cheap spray booth with extraction tube, to avoid filling your room with harmful and/or flammable vapours. You will also want to get yourself a half-face respirator, to avoid inhaling aerosolized paint or paint fumes ( I recommend the 3M 7000 series) and suitable filters (rated for painting and VOC / organic vapours. NOT a dust mask from the hardware store. Unfortunately you can't skimp on these if you plan on being able to breathe for the rest of your life :) That compressor should be fine, it's a bog-standard one that many people start out with ^_^ Don't go for cheap bundles - usually the brushes are crappy and will just be more of a barrier to learning when they do not work correctly. Go for separates, and stick to big name brands for the airbrush (Iwata, Badger, Harder & Steenbeck, Paasche, Sparmax and so on). I hope that helps ^_^

[@ARescueToaster]

@@gurufoxx Awesome, thank you very much for the huge write up! Being a frugal, thrifty bastard (student) I usually research the bejesus (is that a technical term?) out of every new hobby I get into, which ends up having me bother people with a lot of questions >:-)~ I really like that Iwata airbrush, but I'll probably have to start with something slightly cheaper and move up to it in time (particularly if I want to afford a compressor and some of the other required items). I've been looking into good "beginner" airbrushes over the last week, and some people seem to agree on a couple different ones from Iwata or Badger to start with, mainly based on the quality and price. It seems like actually deciding on one may be the hardest part for me! As for the paints, I'll mostly be using an airbrush for models, and as of now I have Reaper and Citadel paints so I'm guessing a lot of thinner will be a necessity! I'm going to need to write up a list for all of this.Thankfully, most of it seems fairly inexpensive! I don't mind the idea of thinning my own paints, particularly if that means I can still use my old paints! Thanks again for all of your help and feedback! Getting into airbrushing is fairly daunting to me, but all of this really helps clear my thoughts on what I should get and what to avoid. So, again, thanks! Here's hoping I'll get around to placing some orders sometime this week :-)

[@johnbartlett9747]

Excellent tutorial, leant more from this than any other I’ve watched, thank you. Have you done one about which paints to use and how to thin them?

[@gurufoxx]

I tend to cover that side of things during build videos, but ultimately there is no magical thinning ratio - paint choice is a personal thing, and how much to thin depends on which paint you are using, what hardware, what climate and so many other things that it is easier to simply say "make the paint have the consistency of skimmed milk" ^_^

[@johnbartlett9747]

Cheers

[@christopherbrown5924]

Thank You For This VERY Informative Video . I thoroughly Enjoyed Watching All Of It And You Explained It All So Simply And Made It Easy For Me To Understand. 8 )

[@gurufoxx]

You're welcome, thanks :)

[@SolidDrake117]

Hey Foxx, I just got the same NEO Iwata airbrush that's in this video and was wondering if you could compile a list of starter essentials for us newbies. I know you have nothing better to do than list things for lazy people, but of all the KZbins I've seen i trust you the most. Keep up the great work and all that jazz.

[@gurufoxx]

Ha ha, no worries. Well, I COULD type a load of stuff out, or I could just post this link and say "Go to the airbrushing section, which is a load of stuff I would actually recommend" - it kinda covers everything I would tell you anyway with much less typing ^_^ Here you go: www.amazon.co.uk/shop/modelmakingguru

[@drawdelow]

very informative! Thank you for this tutorial!

[@matolittleelkwells5377]

Great video with a lot of really good information

[@gurufoxx]

Thanks, glad it was helpful ^_^

[@simonvaughan1270]

Thanks Foxx, a great guide to the airbrush and how to clean them!

[@gurufoxx]

My pleasure!

[@glynchivers9519]

I'm a bit late catching this vid but thanks, very well explained, i have learned so much from watching.

[@gurufoxx]

Thanks, glad it helped :)

[@Ratpack30]

This really helped me as i've missed out so much of the cleaning thinking it was ok enough just to have thinner in the paintcup and spray it out.....how wrong i were ^^ Now my airbrushes works again. Managed to ever so sligthly bend over of the needles and i happen to own some airbrushes you can't get spareparts to :(

[@gurufoxx]

You can sort of un-bend a needle if you are careful, but it is tricky and I have never succeeded. Being able to get spares is important for airbrush ownership - if you have a lesser-known Chinese knockoff, for example, good luck with that. Might be worth contacting the manufacturer for info on where to get spares, or the retailer you got it from, or maybe it's time to trade up to a more established brand like Iwata, Badger, Harder & Steenbeck etc. where parts are easily available.

[@MaxReckless99]

great video indeed. very helpful and informative. much respect

[@gurufoxx]

Thanks, glad you found it useful ^_^

[@andyvan5692]

the water trap has another function too, if you use an air drill or powered rattle gun (mechanics & machinists) this stops water rusting the inside of the tools and their valves etc. saving the tools from premature wear.

[@thetechguyrichy]

OMG Thank you so much for this video it has helped me big time and saved me cash thank you so much.

[@gurufoxx]

My pleasure, glad it was helpful :)

[@JuanGarcia-up2gz]

Alot of good information my friend keep it up now I know how to clean my airbrush

[@gurufoxx]

Thanks, you are more than welcome ^_^

[@GVJLofts2010]

Enjoyed your video. Watch it from beginning to end twice to make sure I got everything. Have a TRN1 also. Can I clean it with windshield washer fluid or is that a no no.

[@gurufoxx]

I have no idea what is in washer fluid other than a little alcohol and detergents, but there could be stuff in there that might harm your airbrush seals - I would stick the to the correct cleaners to be honest.

[@GVJLofts2010]

@@gurufoxx Thank you for your response.

[@reggiecactus2810]

Another thing that is very important to know when airbrushing is respiratory protection. Inhaling the solvents in your paints, even acrylics, is very toxic, and can cause respiratory damage. [THIS ONLY APPLIES FOR AIRBRUSHING] Some ways to protect your lungs is by using a reusable respirator. Don’t use dust masks as they are practically useless (Edit: they do help keep out major particles, but can’t do anything against vapors, so using a Organic Vapor filter will make a larger difference than a particulate filter). Use respirators such as half masks from 3M. Use a Organic Vapor filter with the respirator. These will have to be replaced Monthly (Depending on how often you use your airbrush). 3M sell their respirators in the US, as well as Australia, but I am pretty sure you can order some online for those who live in Europe or anywhere else. Another form of protection is a spraying booth. This sucks the deadly solvents out of the area you are working in and disposes it outside. Keep in mind that if you are working indoors, it’s best you have a fan blowing away from your workplace if you do not have a spray booth. Fans outdoors aren’t necessary.

[@gurufoxx]

I probably should have mentioned all of that vital information in the video :D

[@philopectol7535]

Trick with treaded items. Go backwards like you are taking it off but held like you are putting it on and when you feel the thread click into place, then go forward. Helps prevent cross threading and allow you to know that you have the threads and are now able to move forward without issues..

[@michaelchurchill6395]

Thank you for all this information. I'm only must getting into model making and know nothing about paintbrush makes and models.

[@gurufoxx]

We all start at the beginning :)

[@WaifuTrashWeeb]

Holy hell. And I just bought myself an airbrush (came in the mail yesterday). Just what I needed.

[@gurufoxx]

I knew that, because I have the ALL-SEEING EYE. Also, that shirt doesn't go with that jacket. Just sayin'.

[@WaifuTrashWeeb]

Joke's on you. I use my jacket as an excuse to wear whatever busted shirt I have and not have to worry about looking like a crazy person in public.

[@gurufoxx]

LOL ^_^

[@kargandarr]

The airbrush with a trigger comes in side mount and top mount container models. As for my paint preference, i plan to always use paints that thin with water.

[@gurufoxx]

Water-based acrylics are actually designed to be thinned with alcohol-based thinners for airbrushing so it is possible you may get better results with the relevant thinners than using just water (although water will work in a pinch). I strongly suggest you do not thin Tamiya paints with water because they are not water-based acrylics but rather alcohol-based, and water will not mix well with them at all. For airbrushing, if you want to use water you should use only distilled water as regular tap water contains various minerals and other stuff that can build up in your airbrush over time.

[@kargandarr]

@@gurufoxx I have watched other airbrushing videos and have been warned about tap water and air brushes.

[@warreng3142]

Thanks for the great video, just bought myself a airbrush, nothing fancy as yet, but enough to get me learning, loved the bit about cleaning it front to back.......but will be definitely buying a inline moisture trap, will be getting one for the compressor as well......

[@gurufoxx]

Awesome, glad I helped you out! Have fun :)

[@YoungJDogg]

perfect timing as I have new airbrush and compressor sitting under the Christmas tree waiting to be opened

[@gurufoxx]

Shhhhh you're not supposed to know that! ^_^

[@selarice9477]

Also, some use a Co2 tank from a welding supply. It last quite long as Co2 is a liquid at high pressure. Very quiet, of course, but a bit inconvenient at times.

[@rodbeasley7573]

Just got my first airbrush kit. I got a Switzer with a tank and two brushes. Gravity and side feed. Not sure what extra brushes to get just yet since I have yet to start but looking forward to doing all kinds of stuff.

[@gurufoxx]

Yay! Just remember, it's not as complex as it seems, have fun ^_^

[@dooronron69]

Good tip about pulling through to front not back, I've just purchased one of these today for £147, i thought my 2 aztek ones were dear at £120 each, hoping this trn1 will be easier on my arthritic hands

[@gurufoxx]

Hopefully you will find it much more comfortable to use, it is a lovely brush. They used to be much cheaper back in the day lol

[@dooronron69]

@@gurufoxx what a great airbrush, first time I've been able to spray for ages without my arthritis affecting the flow

[@gurufoxx]

@@dooronron69 Yup! It opened up a whole world of airbrushing without ouchy for me! I hope I helped :)

[@dooronron69]

@@gurufoxx you did help Thankyou very much.

[@hobononono3435]

Many thanks for this. A worthwhile Video and one I watched all the way through.

[@gurufoxx]

Thank you! Glad it was helpful :)

[@williamaviles2647]

TRN1 trigger is that a 1/8 input for hose. Great information thank you. 👍🙏🇺🇸

[@gurufoxx]

AFAIK it is a standard 1/8th connector, yes :)

[@williamaviles2647]

@@gurufoxx Tku

[@roydom5]

Really informative for my first purchase, thanks 🙏

[@gurufoxx]

Glad it helped ^_^

[@ScreamingEngines18]

I am getting a airbrush w compressor which was cheap that I ordered off amazon and it has a cheap small compressor which can adjust the air pressure and only turns on when I’m using the airbrush. Sadly there aren’t much good videos on KZbin about it and the ratings on amazon vary from people saying it works terribly to others saying it’s amazing so I’m anxious of which my opinion would be on it(hoping amazing) because I really hope it works since I’ve been customizing shoes for a bit now and want an airbrush to improve my designs

[@gurufoxx]

Hi There! In all honestly, if it is a cheap airbrush & compressor set it will probably not be the best or have a long lifetime, but it will be okay for learning and getting started. With airbrushes, there really is no good cheap option, so I would suggest you learn on the set you have ordered but also start saving up for a decent compressor and airbrush when it comes time to upgrade, once you have gotten the hang of airbrushing :)

[@marilynsisk1733]

I have several airbrushes including an OPHIR trigger model. I haven't had this airbrush for very long, it's been used very lightly and it worked perfectly. After I'd finished using it, I stripped it down and I gave it a good clean before putting it away. When I tried using it today it is releasing air with no problem but not a single drop of paint is coming out. I've stripped it down and re-cleaned it several more times to no avail, it still is releasing air but not the paint. I've checked the thickness of the paint and it releases with no problem in my other airbrushes, if anything, it's a little to fluid. I have the same problem with my fingers as you do so I really would like to be able to use this trigger brush as my main airbrush. Do you have any suggestions as to what the problem could be?

[@gurufoxx]

Firstly try it with just thinners or water and see if that goes though. If it does then it tells you that for some reason it is struggling with paint but not thinner liquids. Normally the number one culprit would be a blockage between the paint cup and the nozzle somewhere, but if you strip it down and can see clearly through the barrel and crown then that might not be the case. However, keep in mind that a blockage doesn't have to be large - it might possible be crud within the tiny nozzle itself that is small enough to let air through but big enough to block paint flow. Make sure to CAREFULLY clean inside the tiny nozzle - be very gentle, they are soft brass - with either a tiny tiny airbrush cleaning brush or with a small interdental brush (literally the small plastic Tepe brushes that you get for cleaning between teeth). The orange ones are a good size for nozzles :) I also find a reamer quite handy - it's a small metal handle with a spike that you can use to scrape out the nozzle (an old airbrush needle will also work, so it's good to have an old one to hand). If that fails, make sure that the needle itself is able to move freely when you pull the trigger back - remove the crown and crown cap so you can see the needle in the nozzle and make sure it is pulling back when you pull the trigger. If it is not moving then it will be blocking the nozzle. To that end, if you have an adjustable nut at the end of the airbrush that rotates, that is a trigger limiter that limits how far back the trigger can be pulled - make sure that hasn't just been set to minimum by accident as that would be stopping you from pulling the trigger back far enough to get paint flowing through. Also if you have any kind of magnifier take a real close look at the needle tip and the nozzle to make sure the needle is not bent of the nozzle is not squished. Also make sure the vent hole in the paint cup lid is not blocked. Although it is not relating to trigger brushes, you may find this checklist handy for trying to track down the source of the problem: www.airbrushmodeler.com/paint-not-coming-out-of-airbrush/ And lastly, although I hate to say it, I have never heard of Ophir airbrushes and looking at their website they hardware does look a lot like generic rebranded Chinese cheap equipment that you see under a million brand names on eBay...if that's the case it is always possible that the issue may just be poor quality components, maybe an issue with the seals or nozzle alignments or any other number of issues that plague cheaper knock-off white-label brushes and which are really not worth trying to repair. As a golden rule, I tend to recommend avoiding any brand that has a product labelled "makeup" in their catalogue, and sticking to established and trusted airbrush brands instead). I have had such brushes (generally referred to in the hobby as "Chinese knock-off" brushes) last me years but others that have lasted about a week before crapping out. I would say that if you really prefer the trigger style brush, it is maybe worth saving or investing in a higher-end, trusted brand brush that will work and be reliable and actually last you a long time, such as the Iwata TRN-1 (that's kind of about ithe only one I can think of though, to be honest, apart from spray guns which are waaay too much overkill for modelmaking).

[@tomperkins5657]

Can you recommend a follow on video. I have two small areas on my car that would be better for airbrushing. I am concerned because it's a pretty nice car I got last year - retro Tbird and I don't want to mess it up. I do have all the equipment now to spray it but still obviously worried about doing a decent job.

[@gurufoxx]

I'm afraid airbrushing actual cars has an utterly different set of requirements and skills to airbrushing models, and there's nothing I can particularly teach about model painting that would be at all helpful for proper auto paint repair. Repairing damage paint finishes on cars involves spray guns, not airbrushes, and seamless repairs usually require painting the whole panel, not just the affected spot (you will never ever match the original paint finish if you work in just a small spot, painting the whole panel hides the repair in plain sight. Having done that kind of work, I can tell you that for that sort of car it is not a repair you should even consider doing or attempting yourself as it will not end well. It should be handled by a professional body shop with the correct guns, paints and lacquers, and then followed up with a full machine polish and detail.

[@dickyleicester1]

Wow very useful, now intend stripping it down a few times before I use it! I'm still slightly worried about the paint type to use, as I have lots of Humbrol tins I was hoping to use !

[@gurufoxx]

Most manufacturers will list if an airbrush is solvent-safe on their product descriptions, either in the box on on their websites. If it is, then you are good for most paints (i.e. acrylics, lacquers, enamels). If not, then stick to water-based acrylics only. Also if you are using Humbrol enamels, it's time to leave those behind and snag some decent modelling acrylics, much more convenient, easy to use and less chance of your paint job being destroyed by poorly-guessed cure times. Enamels aren't really used much anymore other than for special weathering effects and for pin-washing and other special effects where their long cure time is an advantage. If you are using Humbrol acrylics, they are terrible, so get rid of them too - invest in some nice Vallejo paints (except the Vallejo primers which are garbage!) Also get yourself a good primer - the best non-lacquer one you can get goes by one of three names: Badger Stynylrez, or Ultimate Modelling Products Ultimate Thinner, or Ammo by Mig One-Shot primer. They are all the same thing and simply the best airbrush primer.

[@TheDrewker]

Harder & Steenbeck does have a couple of decent, slightly cheaper options. I went with the Ultra, which is like exactly the same as the Iwata Madea from what I can tell. It was about $120 for a kit with 2 paint cups and 2 nozzle sets. I'm pretty happy with it so far, but I'm at the "Ahhh!" point in the learning curve, just passed the brown pants moment.

[@gurufoxx]

Awesome! You'll get the hang of it ^_^

[@e.hellbrand9707]

there are siphon feeds with swappable bottles (mr.hobby's version comes to mind)

[@gurufoxx]

There certainly are, but they are still more of a faff or fiddle than a gravity-fed brush ^_^

[@MaZEEZaM]

Thanks for this, I had thought the trigger type would be less accurate thinking the pen style hold of the other would be easier but given you mention hands cramping then I thought, ok, I get cramping when writing so perhaps I should go with the trigger style. Cheers from Australia :)

[@gurufoxx]

No worries! It's no less accurate, I actually get more control over paint flow with a trigger ^_^

[@MaZEEZaM]

Modelmaking Guru Thanks 😊

[@eduardotrejos9773]

Hello from Costa Rica. I really like your videos. Very Interesting. I was wondering if I could clean my airbrush with Tamiya paint thinner (I´m using Tamiya Acrylic Paints). Here there are very few hobby shops and I can´t get airbrush cleaner here. Any tips?

[@gurufoxx]

X-20A acrylic thinner will be fine, although in the long run a little costly - keep searching for airbrush cleaner or hop online to pick some up (Medea Airbrush Cleaner is one of the best).

[@bikezonly]

Nice tutorial. Looking forward to more.

[@gurufoxx]

Thanks :)

[@DailaLV]

Thank you so much, very useful video. I have "airpro" airbrush and compressor. I still don't exactly understand how it works, probably I need more and more practice. But one thing I don't understand...every body are telling to take needle out from front, which makes sense , but I can't do it with mine. So I don't know if it's normal or not 🤔

[@gurufoxx]

Most airbrushes allow the needle to pull out of the front but you have to remove the tiny nozzle first (CAREFULLY - they are delicate). However I have honestly never heard of Air Pro so I can't speak to how your should work but if it is a regular, normal airbrush that should be possible.

[@daved2143]

I have one looks just like it. slide that back cover off your Air brush adjustments on the inside for your trigger

[@Wherez_Kev]

I'm sure I read that the TRN-1 had a solvent resistant PTFE needle seal, if yours doesn't then i'm sure you can purchase them, hope so anyway, i've just bought a load of mr.color paints and thinners

[@gurufoxx]

read a few blurbs and other brushes in the range were labelled as solvent resistant but not the Neo, so it may be but I think I will not take the risk ^_^

[@Erdrick68]

I just got a trn 1 and and the manuals only warning about solvents is to use the proper solvent, and not spray flammable ones near flames.

[@keithhorning7753]

I just took my neo siphon feed apart a bit more than I intended,yes I was so shifting Brix.

[@gurufoxx]

ha ha always the way ^_^

[@chrisgriffith1573]

Denatured alcohol is the best softener/cleaner for acrylics- pretty strong for your brush, but fast acting and true to the media. Lacquer thinners are VOC hazardous and super strong. They effect plastics and are not very good for anything unless its stainless. Even a "solvent safe" rubber gasket will eventually be dried out by lacquer thinner. Aways treat your gaskets with oil to keep them recombinated, which will help it keep its seal, lubricant should serve this purpose, but machine oil is best. Then you can run some water and a small amount of soap thru, and remove any extra bits of oil then you are ready for storage of your brush. Watch out for the foam packaging if you use oils, as the oil breaks down the foam packing surrounding the brush.

[@gurufoxx]

Cool, good advice all round there :)

[@Annsartsandcraps1]

You absolutely crack me up this is the first video I've watched videos and I could not stop laughing were very entertaining loved it

[@gurufoxx]

Thank you :)

[@anewbetterme9277]

Very well put together video. I thank you!!!

[@gurufoxx]

Thank you, glad it was helpful :)

[@anewbetterme9277]

@@gurufoxx helped more than you know. I've been contemplating on making a step towards and you've given me that comfort I needed.

[@gurufoxx]

@@anewbetterme9277 You'll be fine - it's a steep learning curve, but very fast, so no biggie ^_^

[@saschiver]

Just got my badger200 and ba1000 compressor. I need lessons to start so I'll watch your bid...

[@gurufoxx]

You'll get there, just takes a little practice ^_^

[@saschiver]

@@gurufoxx thanku

[@MarcoALima]

Thanks for the tips, very detailed and clear!

[@gurufoxx]

My pleasure ^_^

[@Good_boy518]

This is very informative and thorough.. Thank you. Are there any tips to prevent sticky needles in the midst of painting, instead of having to disassemble them wholly when paint clumps up?

[@gurufoxx]

Nope, that's always going to happen as you spray, but will happen more often if the paints are not thinned correctly, or if you are spraying at high pressure, or if it is dry and warm. It;s just one of those things, but it is something that you can deal with in mere seconds without having to stop mid-spray. Make sure your paints are thinned to the consistency of skimmed milk, and if you do get tip dry, then simply gently remove the crown cap and crown and gently wipe dried paint off the needle tip and nozzle area with a cotton bud (Q-Tip) wetted with thinners. Also use it to take any crusted paint on the crown and crown cap. Takes only a second and there's no need to stop or disassemble the brush. I usually get tip dry once or twice during a spray session. Whites are the worst for this as they are very grainy, powdery paints! Metallics also can dry out often as they contain tiny metal flakes.

[@Good_boy518]

@@gurufoxx My sincerest thanks to you Guru. I am now enlightened

[@gurufoxx]

@@Good_boy518 You are more than welcome :)

[@trimmin420]

can you use different size needles with this air brush?

[@gurufoxx]

Needle size depends on the nozzle size - the TRN-1 is a .35mm nozzle and needle, but you can buy a .5mm nozzle and needle set to swap it out. I am not sure if any other sizes are available for it. However. .35 is a good all-rounder size, fine for most jobs. .

[@tyymclarenfan]

I have the awata trn1, as airbrushed my deagostini millennium falcon 👍

[@gurufoxx]

It is a lovely lovely brush ^_^

[@charlesnorton5134]

Wonderful video ,,

[@gurufoxx]

Thanks!

[@SimGeeKilo]

Could you supply links where to buy a beginner kit with compressor & experienced kit with compressor UK Thank you for the info, really appreciate it.

[@gurufoxx]

Sure, go visit my sponsors www.emodels.co.uk/airbrushes, they have a great selection and they will always be happy to advise you as to what might be best for you.

[@CHixon]

The button brush is for painting gradients and images, the pistol grip is for painting solid coats.

[@gurufoxx]

I get lovely gradients and fades out of my trigger brushes. They're are just different methods of spraying paint, you can use either for either :)

[@ukiewolf]

very good video providing encouragement to start airbrushing. loved the colourful quips

[@gurufoxx]

Thanks, glad it helped :)

[@chadshumaker4984]

As I was watching this I kept hearing your phone go off. I had to keep checking my phone because that is the notification I have set up for my oldest son. Lol

[@gurufoxx]

Ha ha I normally turn everything off to avoid that :D

[@chadshumaker4984]

I have some airbrush's. But the finger gets to hurting and I've wondered if they made a trigger one. You showed me that they have one. I need to get it. Really haven't got to do much with my air brushing. I'm a beginner and need to get our hobby room to were we can do that kinda stuff. What kind of stuff do you paint? I would be painting model's. Planes..cars.

[@gurufoxx]

@@chadshumaker4984 Yep, regular airbrushes hurt my fingers too, that's why I love trigger ones :) I build all sorts, all by build series are in playlists right here: kzbin.infoplaylists?view=1&flow=grid

[@donovanwillemse6592]

Dude, you're super funny!Loved the video:))

[@gurufoxx]

Thank you :)

[@wdavie27]

Hiya budy iv just purchased a air brush kit and wanted to ask when you decan spray paint to use do you need to thin the paint before running throw the air brush

[@gurufoxx]

Hey amigo! I honestly can't advise you as I have never done that :( To be honest, I would advise avoiding decanting aerosol cans if you can - most manufacturers have non-rattle versions of their spray paints anyway and decanting seems like an immense pain in the ass.

[@drifter-tt2bk]

hi thank you for lots of hints and tips. just wondering i have just got a new air brush. can i use normal acrylic tube paints if watered down? please help.

[@gurufoxx]

There is nothing stopping you using those, but if you are painting models I suspect they will be terrible as they are not really designed for that, they are designed for brushing onto paper, canvas and other flat surfaces. Far better to use modelling acrylics that are tailored for airbrush use with finer, more opaque pigments and chemistry better suited for modelmaking techniques.

[@drifter-tt2bk]

@@gurufoxx thank you for your response. i actually started a new hobbie wood engraving and just thought it might work with those acrylic paints i have. i thought using acrylic paints with wood with air brush would be more precise covering on wood

[@blaec4058]

My Iwata neo says solvent safe that means it would be ok to clean with thinners , alcohol ? And also if I’m changing colors should I take it all apart and clean it?

[@gurufoxx]

Yes, solvent safe means you can clean with thinners and alchohol, and you don't need to strip the brush just for a colour clean unless you have just sprayed varnishes (in which case strip and clean straight away). A strip down from using regular paint is only needed at the end of the day.

[@zam023]

Good and helpful video. Thanks.

[@gurufoxx]

My pleasure ^_^

[@kennethstreet6247]

very good i learned a lil today

[@gurufoxx]

Glad it helped ^_^

[@argoth231]

fantastic video. and great explanations.

[@gurufoxx]

Glad I could help ^_^

[@otel155]

I have the NEO TRN1 what causes paint to drip out of the top of the barrel down on the trigger.

[@gurufoxx]

If you mean from where the paint cup screws into the body OR from where the head unit (the big front part that you have to use pliers to remove, that the nozzle screws into ) joins the body of the brush, then usually it just means these are not on tight enough. Even a tiny gap between the head unit and body can give you dribbles of thin liquids, or air flowing back into the paint cup. Just make sure they are both on tightly and you should be okay.

[@eddiegremlin]

Thanks for making the video, now to find out if my new airbrush is solvent safe...

[@rzezniqq]

Thanks for the video man!

[@gurufoxx]

No probs ^_^

[@ShinobiSamurai7]

Rofl. this is the first video of yours i watched, while looking up videos about on airbrushing Gunpla. So i laughed my butt off when i saw the ploy caps hiding in the back ground.

[@gurufoxx]

Ha ha :) And LOOK AT THE STATE OF MY BENCH! It was a bomb site back in the old days :)

[@ShinobiSamurai7]

Modelmaking Guru thenyour in good company. Limited work space means crowded bench. 😉

[@Don_Giovanni]

18:51 wtf is pikachu doing here? 😂

[@icespeckledhens]

You didn't mention nozzle size pro and cons of 0.2 or 0.3mm. I bought a voilamart and the spec says 0.2 / 0.3mm, how can a nozzle be two sizes and any ideas where I can get a replacement needle? Thanks James

[@gurufoxx]

Most brushes that have more than one nozzle size tend to come with multiple nozzles and needles that are interchangeable :) There are no pros and cons really, simply the bigger the nozzle the more paint you can throw out and area you can cover - .2 nozzle would be too small to paint a large model but great for fine work, whereas a .5 nozzle would be useless for fine detail work but great for quickly and easily getting a coat of paint on a three-foot long battleship hull. As for replacements, if it is a mainstream established brand like Iwata, Badger, Harder & Steenbeck, Sparmax or any of the known brands that most model stores would sell, you will find plenty of online retailers and stockists.However, I have never heard of Violamart so if is it a generic unknown brand brush that you might pick up cheap off eBay or Amazon, you most likely can't as they tend to be low quality rebranded brushes churned out en masse without any real retail presence n the west and so most places would not carry replacement stock. But worth a google search anyway.

[@icespeckledhens]

Thanks for the information, I think I will upgrade and buy spare needles and needle caps at the same time. I think the 0.2 mm might clog up more than a 0.3mm. James

[@gurufoxx]

@@icespeckledhens It may well do, but that happens on any size tbh. The .2 nozzles are for fine detailing or working on very small models, so you would tend to be using lower pressures, slightly thinner paints and be very close to the model anyway so tip-dry will occur more often :)

[@notpopimp8346]

I have that exact same gun but my nozzle is much smaller. The needle tip doesn't com through the end of mine.

[@gurufoxx]

Are you sure you have the correct needle and tip and not a .35 nozzle and a .5 needle?

[@JinzoCrash]

I have a giant-assed, 3gallon, red TUB of an air compressor that goes to like 100psi ...is there a pressure that will blow apart an airbrush?

[@gurufoxx]

Ha ha yeah, 100psi would do it :) For modelling, you don't really ever need to go over 25psi, and that would just be for thick primers. Most paints are fine around 15-20psi.

[@dougwood6387]

This person is speaking a lot opinion and personal preference. I did paint and body work for many years, and used all kinds of paint guns and airbrushes. I do have preferances, but others have other preferances. It depends on what you like.

[@captaincruise8796]

So, I'm using my airbrush for the second time. I'm getting some bubbling/sputtering when I open up the paint flow more than about half. What is my problem likely to be? Is there a particular place in the airbrush I might not have cleaned, or is my airflow too weak?

[@gurufoxx]

If you are getting sputtering or spitty paint flow, that usually means one of three things: the paint is too thick or the pressure is too low or there is a blockage. basically the paint is having trouble flowing. First try increasing the pressure - for most acrylics, usually between 15-20 is about right (it is around 10-15 typically for enamels and lacquers and varnishes, and 25-30ish for thick primers). If you still get splutter at 20psi with acrylic paints, then you might just need to thin the paint more. It needs to have the consistency of skimmed milk :) Also, if you have mixed paint in the airbrush cup and put the paint in first before thinner, it may just be bunged up with gloopy paint that blarped it's way straight down the tube when it went in - always put thinner in the cup first, or even better, mix and thin paints outside of the airbrush. Lastly, it is always possible there is old dried paint blocking things up. Make sure to do a full strip-down and clean using airbrush brushes (or dental brushes) to get everything nice and scrubbed out! I do a strip down clean at the end of every painting day; it's a good habit. If you are getting bubbles, I assume you mean in the cup? That usually just means that air is backflowing into the cup (like when you cover up the tip to flow air back to mix paint in the cup). It can be either that the head unit (the bit that screws into the body of the airbrush and that the nozzle screws into) is not on tight enough, so make sure that nicely tightened! It can also be caused by blockages, so if that is the case it will stop after you strip and clean. I could also mean that a seal has failed, but that is very unlikely in a new brush :)

[@Putrefax]

Video super helpful, but i feel like some timestamps for the different topics would be a good addition

[@gurufoxx]

OO that's not a bad idea, I shall keep that in mind for future content :)

[@32srt32]

where can you find a tank and compressor for under 100 bucks

[@gurufoxx]

You'll be pushed to find a *good* set for under $100, there are plenty, but they are all mostly crappy knock-offs and either the brush OR the compressor will be garbage, or both. Sadly airbrushing is a part of the hobby that demands investment.

[@Steve-dr7rr]

Hi could you show us how you use badger lube on a trigger airbrush or trn1 cheers

[@gurufoxx]

Hi there! To be honest, I never have needed to use lube at all on my TRN1 so I am not actually sure WHERE it would go, lol.

[@kevbee8325]

Florymadels does a ‘Super lube review’ (it’s by Iwata but the same stuff) it’s basically a thin film of lube around the needle which the air and paint flows over. This is a great video by the way.

[@nitepistol]

Ty for a great tips video

[@gurufoxx]

Pleasure! Glad it is helpful ^_^

[@SoupAgain.]

Thanks mate.

[@gurufoxx]

You're welcome!