Fix Bad 3D Prints on a Creality Printers

[@korkutsert498]

DUDE, you saved my prints. I was so frustrated with my CR10, which I bought used. I was getting ready to sell it. Now it prints fricking PERFECT. I will try to save few bucks so I can support you on Patreon! THANK YOU VERY MUCH!

[@FilamentFriday]

Awesome feedback. Glad I could help.

[@jhazel]

I got so frustrated with this problem over the last two months that I went from having two printers running 100% to turning one off and only periodically using the other. Thank you for yet another great video!

[@QuantumKatmusic]

man , creality owes you a lot of gratitude , ill tell you what. You've solved more problems and answered more questions about my ender 3 than any other content creator or website

[@FilamentFriday]

Glad I could help.

[@McRibz79]

It's like you have a 6th sense on to what is going on with my machines. You never fail to provide quality, helpful videos. Thank you!

[@patrickmaartense7772]

its not just your machine, but remember the CR series use very similar hardware and setup . not the best by any means, but very good to tweak and make work to the best of the abilities

[@meisievannancy]

Take the spring out. Stretch the spring as it has relaxed over time. This increases it's spring modulus. Don't stretch too far. Just enough so that it relaxes at a longer length. Put it back. No need to put in spacers. It will run for a long time like this till it relaxes shorter again from the heat over time and constant compression.

[@gageparker]

I just discovered this myself yesterday, and I made a similar fix to the one you highlighted. My prints look just as good as they did at the peak of my machine. Came to see if this was covered on any of my favorite 3d printing youtube channels, and here I am. You have helped me figure out so many minor issues on my printer, your channel is invaluable. Thank you for all you do.

[@williamhargraves8813]

Just torn my ender 3 back to bare parts turns out it was the extruter tensioner bearing that was too tight causing under extrusion 🥵😱🤦🏽‍♂️ thank God for filament Friday. Mate you're a bloody legend

[@sethogreenc2133]

I have had under extrusion issues for awile. After watching this video, and trying the suggestongs from CHEP, I never had the issues again. Thank You!

[@jonathanlarsen4177]

THANK. YOU. SO. MUCH. you saved my drive to keep learning 3D printing. One month of constant issues (with some successes inbetween) and this seems to have fixed it. 110% scaling was a great tip too, simply amazing!

[@richfriesen8561]

my prints were suddenly garbage, tried pretty much everything for about a 2 weeks. saw this video and once i took it apart i saw a very visible crack in the extruder arm..right under the idler wheel...this video saved my sanity

[@WoodenCreationz]

Rich.. mine has been doing this as well and i couldnt figure it out... I read your comment.. thinking cracked? Really??.. mine is printing garbage as well.. I should look.. and I will be darn.. I have a crack under my idler wheel as well... WTH... Thanks for writing that.. I would have never looked unless I read your comment... Off to amazon to get a new part. ty!!!

[@unmintedltd]

Wanted to thank you for sharing this video - set up my 3rd Ender 3 Pro this last week. It was all dialed in - e-steps calibrated, aluminum extruder, no movement in the bed, bed leveled, belts tensioned, fresh nozzle, Capricorn tubing, z-axis aligned, but I kept getting odd blobs, occasionally dropped "chunks" of filament and weak infill. Following your advice and checking the extruder for issues, the spring appeared to be putting too much pressure against the filament, so I cut off the last coil of the spring to weaken it a bit, reinstalled, and it's printing beautifully now. Thank you for sharing your time and discoveries with the world.

[@waynefilkins8394]

Wow it's as if I typed this comment myself. I had all the same exact problems and the aluminum extruder and it was chewing the filament, too much pressure from spring. I was so tempted to cut the last coil off too...it just popped up in my head one night while I couldn't sleep. I was going to do it the next day, but didn't want to permanently damage it and have to get another. So instead I put the old spring on and I'm having other problems now. After seeing your comment, I'm going to cut the last coil off the new spring. Thanks for sharing!

[@waynefilkins8394]

By the way, how tight did you tighten the belts? I never know how tight they are supposed to be. I'm probably overthinking it though.

[@unmintedltd]

@@waynefilkins8394 Hope it helps!

[@unmintedltd]

@@waynefilkins8394 I have a belt tensioner on the XY carriage and I use a pair of needle nose pliers for leverage on the Y. I just adjust them so there's no slack and are tight, but not tight enough that they inhibit movement or risk breaking.

[@scottbaeder37]

WOW...I just went through figuring this out on my own over the last two days!!! Finally worked back to the extruder, and BINGO...Clogged up with dust and other gunk because arm was too tight! Wish you published this Wednesday!! Keep up the good work!

[@dinosoarskill17]

Chuck, I just did these to my Ender and it just helped immensely with some print quality. I have been chasing this for a couple weeks now, thank you!

[@CatCommando]

I suffered from those gaps and switched to a clone Bondtech BMG for completely other reasons, my prints have become basically flawless. I never suspected the extruder since it LOOKS like it works even when it sucks.

[@androidlover9791]

yeah am thinking about switching too i used it on tevo tarantula and works much better .hope it decrease load on ender 3 motor too.

[@joshuartaylor30]

OMG, I LOVE YOU!!!! This solved ALL MY ISSUES! Literally have a brand new printer again!

[@draakevil]

Not a fan of the Creality extruders. The gears are soft and tend to grind the filament when a lot of pressure is involved. It also can't handle flexible filament without modifications and destroys itself over time due to the filament grinding on the plastic on the entrance. I replaced it with a dual hobbed extruder. It is hardened and has a gear reduction.

[@BobvanDijk]

Thank you so much for this! I wasn't able to make 1 successful print with my CR-10S, had already replaced the entire hotend and was getting ready to replace the extruder motor. However, it turned out to be the spring! I'm filled with joy to see that my printer work after a solid week and a half of tinkering.

[@aggronn]

Man. Lovely video. Please keep continuing these videos. I use them All the time when people have issues and you make great and simple videos

[@Unicycleskill24]

Just installed a BLtouch on my ender 3 pro thinking it would solve this issue but sure enough loosening that screw was all I needed. Thank you so much!

[@SuperCoderFromScratch]

Man.... Saw your video, saw the loosening of the extruder screw.... Made me laugh. Decided to try anyway.... Perfect prints, just perfect prints.... Beautiful. Thank you so much

[@DillonZac]

Same I was very skeptical also, but it finally fixed my issues with random missing filament in layers.

[@DillonZac]

@CHEP, actually I just realized I am still having the issue 😅. Thought it went away because I tested with the 20mm calibration cube and there were no issues, however when I do a larger print I still see the issue. Know what could be my problem?

[@SuperCoderFromScratch]

Have you tried a different filament? I got this happening to me again when I use a filament that has been open for a long while, that has moisture on it.

[@DillonZac]

@@SuperCoderFromScratch hmm, ive only tried two different rolls of inland pla pro. But printed like that straight outta the box i believe.

[@SuperCoderFromScratch]

@@DillonZac then I have no idea I must say. I ended up upgrading my ender 3 with a new motherboard and adding auto callibration and I can say that I've never had issues again. Hope this helps

[@jesss1398]

I have to say between this video and your other one about the nozzle and bowden tube replacement you have helped bring my Cr-10 mini back to life. I am enjoying printing again because of these fixes, thanks you SOOO much!

[@ArtificalSUN]

Wonderful video on extruder maintenance! However, there is so much more to it. One important thing worth checking in case of extrusion problems is actually how tight the gear sits on the motor shaft. It sometimes gets loose and every retract you have spoils your extrusion because of the gear's backlash. I also agree with suggestion on buying new metal extruder, since the stock plastic idler's quality is... unstable, as far as I know (I personally know 4 people who had their idlers cracked after first month of printing).

[@patrickmaartense7772]

Could not agree more on the above. I first reprinted a replacement in 100% infill PLA on the prusa , but the metal one is so much better.

[@mattnaylor2368]

I have been having trouble printing nylon on my ender 3 for about a month now. I couldn't find what my issue was. It was exactly what was covered in this video. Thank you!

[@Johnn_T]

As usual, more good, solid, easy to follow info for people who don't know what to look for👍 nice work as usual Chuck👌

[@reasonablebeing5392]

Great tips once again. I eventually wore a slot into the filament inlet hole of the plastic extruder arm on my CR-10 from the filament after many prints. I suggest replacing the whole assembly with the metal version or other extruder of your choice like Chuck did on his CR-10 mini.

[@me3dnone107]

I had a very similar issue and the cause was that the grub screws of the pulley of the extruder had come loose. Just tightening those grub screws fixed it. I've read other people experienced the same issue, so it's quite a typical scenario.

[@infernaldaedra]

Yes first step should be to make sure that things that are supposed to move do and things that aren't supposed to move do not.

[@bananamanly9997]

your videos are so awesome. thank you so much for making these and helping people like me who are having troubles with 3d printing.

[@KJW648]

You missed the one that cause the most problems, which is, where the incoming filament wears away the hole and catch the filament. Never had anymore problems since changing to the metal version.

[@ailaG]

Which hole, the nozzle's?

[@webnutmark6973]

The filament can elongate the feeder hole in the extruder causing friction and poor feeding. The aluminum extruder upgrade permanently fixes the problem. Plastic is cheaper than aluminum, so to save money during manufacturing, they went with the cheaper option.

[@werner1]

Thank you Chuck! you always manage to show me what i need to see!. Have a great weekend!

[@BenEBrady]

Hey Chuck, thanks for the video. Last night I converted my Ender 3 to use an MKS Gen L board and the TMC 2100 drivers... And, I printed my very first CHEP cube. It came out fantastic.

[@diamondtechfire5690]

I have actually been struggling with this, so thank you!

[@Kimchi_Studios]

I don't have these problems yet and I have a CR10 V3 but this video has taught and prepared me well for the upcoming maintenance. Thanks a lot!

[@iandawkins2182]

Quick tip for new viewers, I know you have covered it before but upgrade the extruder to the aluminium type costs about $7 to $10 on eBay it's so much better. Use a little silicone grease when assembling and it will stop the parts binding up over time. Respect Sir another great video.

[@cynic5581]

That arm itself cracked on the bottom of my Ender 3. I believe it’s a known problem, even Creality makes an upgraded aluminum extruder. Mine cracked right where the threaded insert is making it so there was little to no pressure on the filament causing it to randomly slip.

[@justinthomas2458]

I swapped out the plastic with the creality upgraded aluminum parts and replaced the spring with one of the extra yellow bed springs I had laying around to give it a little more consistent pressure

[@robevans8555]

Hi Chep, you have a really nice clear way of explaining this stuff. Thankyou for your content

[@ShadowtheWiseman]

Yep I was having this same issue on my Ender 3 and I ended up breaking the plastic extruder hardware and replaced it with the aluminum kit. Now I'm back to great prints.

[@joereader8104]

Once again THANK YOU! For no apparent reason I started having this problem with my Elegoo Neptune2. I drove myself crazy for for the next 24hrs trying to figure out what had changed and what was causing the problem. Watched your video and bam, problem solved.

[@rallymax2]

Changing fro the ender 3 plastic extruder to the metal one fixed all my feed problems. Thank you!!!!

[@MrCoolstopmotion]

I love your videos they are very informative and you manage to keep them interesting. Keep up the good work.

[@benfrost1944]

Just had this problem. Stumbled across the answer after fighting with it for a couple weeks. Wish you would have uploaded this a month ago!

[@RobSquared]

Thanks for all the great vids. This one saved me a lot of frustration. I kept having prints with minimal filament in some areas, to the point where prints would fail on a regular basis because is all the weak points. I was focusing on the nozzle but it was in fact the tension on that arm that was not pushing through enough filament.

[@graham3815]

You are the only person on KZbin that could solve my problem. Thank you very much I’m subscribed and following.

[@FilamentFriday]

Glad I could help.

[@brucebelvin2058]

A printed shim for the spring is easier to install than a spacer. You can also add multiple shims to customize spring pressure.

[@playtech7165]

My problem is much much more serious than the examples at the beginning of the video, but I'm going to check if that screw didn't adjust itself, thanks!

[@SianaGearz]

Geeetech also has a recurring issue with spring being too weak or relaxing over time. But it's compounded by the fact that by increasing preload, you make it more likely to break the lever. I found myself a printable lever with adjustment screw and i'm using that now, with the original lever stored away in case of breakage. I also got myself one of those $4 alu extruders and also put it in a box for later.

[@prestonfoster2095]

Thank you. It's amazing the difference one little screw can make.

[@blackdog6184]

Also a can of electronics duster to blow away the plastic clogging the gear works nicely as well.

[@michaelbonello2882]

I tightened the arm half way f=through a print and it made all the difference in the rest of the print

[@bluryfilms]

you beautiful S.O.B! i'v been pulling my hair out in frustration, trying to figure out what was wrong, and your recommendation for that mod piece for the spring has instantly shown better results! thank you!

[@FilamentFriday]

Glad it helped.

[@Monkeymayhem1981]

Had the same problems, intermittent under extrusion on my ender 3. tried everything, and then noticed the heater block had some movement. tighten the two screws and everything is fine now. Makes sense as the nozzle is connected directly to the heater block.

[@mp5557600]

Thank you!!!! My extruder gear had a tiny bit of filament built up on it (hardly noticeable). Cleaned it with a wire brush and my print came out perfect!! Funny how a small amount of crap on the gear can effect your print

[@paulcumber4732]

How you been doing chuck

[@gwfranklin1]

Just got a Ender 3 Pro and you saved the day! Thank you

[@TheCjCore]

Hi. I found that loosening the idler screw even a bit makes it go even more off in time. And because of the spring tension it actually makes the idler screw tilt out of z Axis causing the idler Bering to rotate on a different plane that is slightly off from the motor gear's( so not xy anymore). That makes the filament to get ground too. So keep it as tight as reasonable and check regularly.

[@richardgoone3438]

Sir, ALL your videos saved my life when I face a problem .. Thank you

[@FilamentFriday]

You’re welcome

[@denniscalderone7913]

Great info. I wish I saw this a couple days ago. I was spinning my wheels, till I sat and watched what my printer was doing and found my arm was hanging up.

[@kenneths7984]

I had some problems with some PLA from a specific brand that seemed to have a more slippery surface which made my extruder slip even with a shim on the spring. I took a small triangular file and sharpened all the teeth on the extruder gear to give it better traction and have had no problems since.

[@tstevens06ts]

Watch out when turning your stepper motors quickly. A damaging voltage can be generated and damage your main board. If you must turn them fast. Disconnect the connection at the motor.

[@FilamentFriday]

Tim Stevens - I’ve tested this and believe that is a myth. The motors don’t generate enough back EMF to create any issues. The drivers also have bypass diodes to redirect the current. Have you actually failed a board doing that?

[@meande-man5351]

I found by just putting a little torque on the extruder arm by pulling it when you load the filament helps lock it in place.

[@mathewphillips4185]

I had the same problem but I had to put a washer underneath the idler to keep the screw from hitting the bottom so it would tighten up nice after I fix that found out that my thermistor wasn't registering right and my temperature was a lot lower than it should have been then of course heatbed went lol

[@me3dnone107]

Hihi, once upon a time when I had disassembled the extruder I was very confused that there was no spacer. My conclusion was that I must have dropped and lost a washer for this purpose and thus installed a 'new' one ...

[@HiGHrVOLTAGE]

The middle one is good? The layers look better than the right and left, sure, but layer inconsistency shows on the left side big time

[@600miles]

Every couple prints I use air duster, can of air, works great to clean up the wheel tracks & various parts.

[@vcancer]

Going to try this out because I have the same problem but not as bad as others. I get the gaps here and there but it smooth though out but some time feels a bit rough that I have to sand it down a bit. Sometimes I have to use putty/sandpaper if it's a figure and those gaps come out on a face. I'll be trying this out this weekend and will let you know if it worked.

[@CyberDunk2077]

I have probably racked up a minimum of 20 hours per month watching 3d printer videos for 3 years now.And I don't even have a 3d printer.

[@Nordic_Mechanic]

it means you're gonna love this hobby. i started with a tronxy x1 and upgraded the heck out of it. You can see it on my channel.

[@ailaG]

Why don't you have one, then? You sound like you're really into it.

[@CyberDunk2077]

I got a creality ender 5. about a 3 days ago, I could not be happier with its functionality . It was the encouragements here that made my mind up to get a 3d printer.

[@ailaG]

@@CyberDunk2077 Congrats! Enjoy your new printer :-)

[@MrApaHotel]

I have an CR-10 and it makes some layers thicker so they bulge out slightly . It seems to always happen at the same layer heights. How do I fix that?

[@patrickmaartense7772]

I replaced the extruder with the metal one, also a better filament path that way. works perfectly still my 2nd best printer (cr10mini) after the i3mk3

[@philipjoseph9874]

Thank you so much you solved all my printer problems

[@detaer]

Great video Chep! Saved me figuring out my gaps!

[@LostCloudx4]

When I replaced the bed springs, I used one of the originals on my extruder and fixed everything

[@TBWOC]

Very good video! I recently changed my extruder top from plastic to aluminium and I still have some issues. Sometimes it still makes a "tack tack tack" as if something is stuck. But I am not sure if it is the extruder or a partially blocked nozzle at the hotend.

[@blackredroll]

It may not be extruder, but too low temperature of nozzle, especially when printing too fast. Too cool plastic has hard time to go through nozzle and it makes higher pressure on extruder, which eventually leads to skipping filament.

[@Mr1967JUNE]

I will try your suggestions....its happening same problem as you described in both machines (Ender 3 and CR10)....I will inform you later on results...as alwas...tks for amazing hints

[@levidarling5107]

None of these methods are working for me. 😕 would replacing extruded gears help?

[@cgbolton1]

Did you replace the extruder gear? Did it make a difference?

[@levidarling5107]

@@cgbolton1 I’ve yet to do that

[@Dan-wr4ch]

Sometimes you get little knots on the filament spool due to incorrect installation that could prevent the extruder from extruding, you don’t really notice them until they ruin your print, worth checking that out.

[@SAOS451316]

thank you chep, this was my problem!

[@RainyDayRedfield]

Thanks for the save. May I buy you a coffee? haha This wasn't my only problem, but it definitely was one. I'm finding out of the box, Creality products need a lot of tuning and tightening to make things right. It's a long bumpy right from them to me.

[@NicolaFloris]

What about the exact opposite problem? I always have little over extrusion issues, with tiny extra dots of bulging filament, not talking about the seam. Everything seems ok with retraction and all

[@griffingreenwald3357]

Same

[@FilamentFriday]

Adjust your ESteps kzbin.info/www/bejne/h5_VeWWJoJysapI

[@NicolaFloris]

Tried a calibration of the extruder and also replaced the Bowden tube with a Capricorn, didn't solve it. Turns out it was octoprint, for instance the usb cable that I was using, I tried printing from the sd card and it came out perfect. I was using a PS3 controller miniUSB cable, probably worn out, also noticed that the SKR mini e3 V2 usb port was a bit large or loose, I replaced the cable and bent a bit inward the metal of the usb port on the SKR and now it works flawlessly.

[@Moneypit330]

I am still having this issue, I have done the following: Replaced rollers on X and under bed, replaced plastic extruder for TH3D aluminum version w/steel gear, replaced bodin setup for the direct drive unit, increased flow rate up to 110%, tried different brand filament including inland, 3d solutech, Amazon basics, hatchbox, replaced nozzle more than once and have taken hot end apart multiple times to "reseat" the TPFE on the nozzle. I guess I am going to check the V-REF on all of the steppers next?

[@SianaGearz]

I don't know, does it FEEL like the motors are driving rigidly and strongly enough? In my opinion you should feel a good bit of heat being developed on the motors when they're powered long enough, but not too hot, though how hot is too hot, depends. On Geeetech electronics and 4988 StepSticks i cool them with a 2000rpm 80mm fan for the whole board (+92mm 1500rpm for power supply), i drive the motors to about 40°C equilibrium, and in motion it feels like they could take my arm off if i'm not careful - the StepSticks are at a comfortable temperature too. But obviously i have a lot more DIY cooling than is available on Creality or just about anything from the factory, so i can push things a lot harder before they start to develop issues. Besides not enough drive current to perform the motion, if the stepper IC overheats, it will temporarily reduce the drive current to a very low amount until the temperature recovers. The overheating occurs due to a combination of too much drive current and not enough cooling, and i'm not sure whether it can be exacerbated by mechanical resistance. Since Creality in their infinite wisdom decided to couple the board cooling fan to part cooling fan, it is advised to run the latter at 100% whenever feasible, so that the board gets enough cooling, or rewire the electronics cooling fan to be permanently powered by power supply directly, which is how it should have been to begin with.

[@Moneypit330]

@@SianaGearz That is a good point and an easy experiment to see if it changes anything. I have a printed cover over my board cooling fan...like every ender3 has. I could take it off and see. As far as the motors running hot, they do not. The longest print I have done was like 26 hours and I made a point to check them during that time. I just downloaded the Creawesome Cura setup that someone mentioned below. I am printing now to test it out.

[@SianaGearz]

@@Moneypit330 If the motors are too cold it's also not ideal, a hint that you're not driving them as hard as they'll take it :D And i mean while you can make the axis smooth enough to get away with little drive current, driving the filament down the hot-end is just inevitably a very heavy job.

[@dpointdefender8196]

I replaced my PTFE tube and the prints as of right now look much better lol

[@cspencer5529]

I bought a CR 10 mini and instantly tried to print with it. I kept getting stringy prints and what I thought to be nozzle blockage. I could not fix it. I tried customer support for 4 months. I gave up in april after buying it in January. In june my Friend said "let me look at it and see what I can do". I didn't think we'd fix anything but I let him try. We moved the printer upstairs cuz the room it was in was being converted into a home office for a family member. I plugged it in, ran it and THE FREAKING PRINTER RAN PERFECT AS HECK. I was so confused and so was my friend. I'm still confused but I'm guessing that the voltage of my outlets affected it somehow. The room it was in before had an i mac, space heater, lights, and ink printers. The room upstairs just had the CR 10 mini. It is working fine now. I do realize that people plug dozens of these printers in in one room. But this is to crazy of an event to just brush aside. I alos know the CR 10 mini has a feature that if the power goes off then the print will resume when the power is restored. Maybe my outlet was affecting this somehow and it just kept crapping on my prints. Either way, if you're totally lost on what to do and have tried everything. Then I suggest moving rooms or checking you outlets.

[@jimmy2drinks]

Thanks Chuck, good things to watch out for.

[@bluegizmo1983]

Why at 2:45 is your extruder drive gear set screw not lined up with the flat spot on the pin??

[@me3dnone107]

There's two set screws. One grabs the flat spot of the axis, and the other one is at an 90° angle and bites into the axis from the side. Here you see only the 2nd one.

[@infernaldaedra]

@@me3dnone107 Yep. Their are two grub screws to hold the shaft on the gear.

[@yerligurbetci4295]

got the same problems 2 times. the 1st time i didnt know where the problem was, i was rage googling and searchin‘ in youtube for solutions. one day i checked the exruder and just fixed the screw and it was good,. after 2 weeks now i bought a metal extruder because the problem with the plastic extruder wont hold long

[@rudolphriedel541]

I had a worn-out gear on my CR-10 that was causing missing lines.

[@Johnellenberger1]

Man I was killing myself trying to figure that one out! This saved my prints! My screw was really tight!, loosened it and now everything is good! Thanks!

[@carlosmelendez8317]

That's exactly how the arm on my printer sounded! Wow. I printed a front rail cover for my Ender 3 Pro and when it finished the top half was very weak and stringy. When I removed it the top half was so brittle it broke apart. I did replace my stock extruder with the all metal kit and I noticed the tensioner spring feels tight. Also, while printing I noticed a sound coming from the feeder area that seems to be because the the screws on the new extruder kit are too tight. One last thing. The filament looks like it has bite marks in it like the gear is squeezing too hard on the filament. Please and thx.

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

I've had layer gaps even with the AL extruder. Never saw any signs of slippage. Also running a microswiss w/ 1.5 retraction and linear advance.

[@1988marksie]

I found that my idler arm had snapped, but you couldnt see it until i took it apart, i ended up printing a new one and that fixed my issues.

[@Rubydude]

The ender 3 pro has a screw on the extruder spring so its even easier to fix now

[@3vil8unny]

i went with the titan extruder on my cr10 and would never go back its amazing

[@whatthefunction9140]

I was getting a terrible time printing. Turns out I was using weed wacker line. Didn't realize I needed special plastic.

[@evren.builds]

That's hilarious if It's real :D

[@fnhunter1848]

I have wondered that how would some weedwacker line work in 3d printing 🤔

[@Mojo4884]

Concerning resizing, the transition between the cad and slicing could be i.e. 1 inch in the drawling gets assigned 1 mm in the slicer.

[@Waldherz]

I actualy only have problems with the Ender 3 Pro. Levelingscrews dont hold the level during a larger print, powersupplyfan never turns even though the PSU is hot. The nozzle isnt straight and the supportbarts have something that rattles inside of them and the printhead itself is always just way too low. And it gets lower and lower during the print. It already left scarpes ont he bed during one print where at the end it smalled the head down when the bed retracted...

[@tomaszbunio]

I love watching you. Greetings from Poland

[@adriansmithmusic]

Hi Chuck, have you heard of the new Creawesome mod for Cura 4.0 for the Ender 3? It's not just a printer profile but actually replaces files in the resources folder in Cura. People are getting amazing prints with it, would be cool to see you do a video on it!

[@jhazel]

I saw a reddit post for this plugin yesterday and plan on checking it out this weekend.

[@zanpekosak2383]

Its awesome! Works really nice for me.

[@justinthomas2458]

Just add .5 line width to cheps profile and you have creawesome

[@kjetilerakersamuelsen2023]

I tried it, but I'm getting better results with Chuck's Cura profiles. I don't see anything in that code that you can't setup yourself without replacing the resource folder.

[@MadDawg91108]

After reading this comment, I decided to check out Creawesome as I had never heard of it before. I printed a CHEP calibration cube using the CHEP Magic 0.20 profile in PLA....it turned out nice, as expected. I have been using this profile since day one and have always been very happy with the print quality. Next, I followed the instructions for loading the Creawesome resource file into Cura 4.0. The only changes I made to the "Standard Quality 0.20" profile was setting the extruder temp to 205C and the bed temp to 60C to match the previous print with the stock Cura...no other settings were modified. I copied my custom start and end gcode to the new printer profile too. I printed a second CHEP calibration cube in the same PLA at the same temperatures as before. This cube turned out nice too....noticeably nicer than the first cube I printed. When doing a side by side comparison, the letters in the Creawesome cube are much crisper than the stock Cura cube. The overall finish is also much smoother when playing the light across the surface. When looking at both cubes, each are nicely printed but a close up inspection reveals the flaws in the stock Cura cube that are not in the Creawesome cube. Is the Creawesome cube 100% perfect......no....but it's pretty darn close. The holographic Ender 3 around the Creawesome build plate is kinda neat too....even though it's merely eye candy. More printing will need to be done to fully determine if this Creawesome Cura is a keeper, but at this point, it's looking like it's gonna be.

[@daudidrees9636]

mine only happens for like small cylinder type shapes and the rest are fine

[@brocklievsay8262]

What are small bumps/ridges on the side of the layer where the stroke ends caused by? The extruder slipping slightly when trying to reverse/stop the filament flow and getting a slight over extrusion?

[@blackdog6184]

Thanks for sharing, I look forward to trying this when I get home this evening. Also my experience is it prints fine with the black filament I'm using but the pink filament from the same brand always prints gaps at what seems to be random levels in the print. After watching your video im wondering if maybe in my case the cleanliness of the extruder gear and spring tension could also be exaggerated by a slightly softer composition in the filement being used. I suppose the punch line being keep an eye on your gear and spring tension.

[@palewriter1856]

Wow - those problem prints look just like my recent fails with taulman Alloy910 nylon. I don't ?feel? or hear the glitchy thing in the tensioner arm, though, but perhaps that's because the nylon can skip without actually shedding chaff in the process. The thing that I HAVE noticed, but haven't been able to isolate the cause, is that when I measure the amount of filament extruded when I call for 10mm (my usual test) I find results all OVER the MAP - on the SHY side, that is. It ranges between 6.8 and 8.3, approximately, never consistent, never CLOSE to right! Of course, this makes for very sketchy prints, even with my attempt to compensate by setting it to overextrude about 125%. I'm good with PLA and TPU but this nylon makes me crazy. I've had major headaches with his bridge and bluprint before, but that was on another machine. The bridge turned out to be so irregular in its diameter (some actually as fat as 2.04mm) that it was binding in my bowden tube! Naturally, I checked that on this 910 but found it dimensionally proper. Thanks, Chuck, for so generously sharing your due diligence!!! Keep it up!

[@dragoro3033]

Hey man, the faster you can get to me the better. I want to get my dad a reliable 3d printer for his birthday. He got one 3 years ago, and what we found out, is its a frame and the rest has to be DIY or you have a frame with a bunch of useless parts. We got one or two awesome prints, and with limited knowledge on the subject we did fairly well. I noticed the bed was warped and that didn't help and after putting in another 50$ to try and solve the frustration that was supposed to be a gift, we gave up. and that's 50$ in multitudes of solutions. The solutions we found stated we would have needed to tear it all down and rebuild from scratch almost buying a new 3d printer worth of parts. I think I have decided on the CR-10 as it just sounds good from everyone, and I do not mind putting time or effort into improving it, My deal is weather or not it will work. If it can't at least work on its own and give me SOMETHING then I want to stay away from it. If it can at least make me the pieces to improve it, I think its worth it. I'm trying to find good sales now, but I have a question: I have found a few versions of the CR-10 mini, and some don't have the new neat upgrades that you showed off in another video I believe. The mini Makes me happy both in price and scale, its actually fairly decent. The standard just gets a bit much for me in price, but is the extra worth it between the mini and standard? Also, it may be me that I can't find the link to the right mini, but would the link to the mini in this video be well enough? if I do not get the mini,what in the world is the difference between the 10 and the 10S? I have 100 coming in so pricing wise, the 10S would be cheaper but only if its better for the 100$. I found a CR-10 that was listed as the Newer version and is more expensive but I don't know whats so much newer with it or if its even worth it. I am trying to understand, let me know if you can!

[@FilamentFriday]

All the links in description are for good ones. 10S is not worth the extra in my opinion. I use several 10 minis and I like them.

[@dragoro3033]

@@FilamentFriday thank you so very much! Have a wonderful day!

[@goddamnmaddog2024]

The CR10 or CR10s is a really good printer. For me it worked out of the box until I did some tweaking. XD Assembly is easy and you have everything included to start printing on the day you receice it. I think the double lead screw for the z-axis is worth the money but that is personal favour, I think.