Ben Heck’s Raspberry Pi MAME Portable Part 2

Learn more about the Keysight 3000T at - element14.com/test-and-measure...
element14.com/tbhs - Ben sets out to create a second revision of the Raspberry Pi MAME portable gaming device. This time he has a better display, a newer Pi, and an improved charging circuit. In this episode he finishes off the project by stuffing the PCB created in part one, finishing the case design, wiring and testing the PCB, 3D printing the parts and finally assembling the unit.
Like The Ben Heck Show at - / benheckshow

[@madkvideo]

The part were you soldered the components and wires to the boards was insane!

[@jaimehatchet]

I love how he is, like, the world's biggest nerd, but in the most charming way. I crack up anytime he quotes some movie, or something, and chuckles to himself.

[@DarenPage]

That sound sounded off, was the pi struggling to emulate?

[@1stage]

I LOVE this project, Ben! I agree with your wrap-up, particularly the custom-printed PCB.

[@jonbacon4364]

This show has gotten so much better lately

[@DaveMcAnulty]

Absolutely loving the Summaries at the end, especially listing what you would have done differently! Failed project next week? Sounds like an awesome learning experience for us viewers, can't wait!

[@CraigSutcliffe]

Looking forward to seeing what your plans for the Raspberry Pi 2 are...

[@NathanAltimari]

You guys are such a talented team. I've been a fan of your work for years and years Ben, but I just found out about your KZbin show today. Thank you for this; I'm looking forward to watching all the episodes.

[@david7402]

This is the sort of thing I want to learn to do. Great show!

[@AMBaggs]

An integrated speaker would have been a good idea but I am not sure if it could fit in the case. Perhaps make the case a little thicker to add one.

[@ElectronicsEnthusiast]

At 4:11 you put the solder on the tip of your soldering iron instead of on the board/components. Doesn't this evaporate the flux and makes the solder less sticky? I understand it if you only did the corners this way, but the whole board? Then again I have a lot to learn regarding soldering

[@Nerd7]

how to make a mode with Ds lite inside a GBA Carcass? I already saw several modes of Ds lite but neither one does inside the GBA casing, just put a fuse to play in GBA mode, would this complete modification possible?

[@markoutram001]

Another great show. Would love to see an episode on using illustration for case design and for cnc

[@imapoojabba]

Real nice! Hope you make a 3rd version in the future!

[@ociemitchell]

A technique I remember seeing in electronic toys I took apart might help simplify the wiring. They would use a single sided pcb and where a cross connection was needed, a bare wire was run on the back side of the board and soldered in the through hole connections. It might take a little more planning, but could be built in less time. Great project btw.

[@willaimkazer9754]

Is there a way to eliminate audio noise to RPI 3's headphone jack? I have this problem using a cheap 3 + 3 watt amp for stereo sound in a Porta-Pi that I built with a 10" monitor that uses HDMI but has no audio support on it's driver board. I'm using a phone charger battery pack. Has 2 2.5 amp & 1 1 amp power out. Everything works fine except for annoying audio noise. Any advise?

[@Fordi]

I'm curious; do you think that if you'd made the back of the control board into a ground plane, rather than going with a full-on double-side board, would that have simplified the board significantly?

[@blvm]

Very nice project, man! Congratulations for this great job!

[@greenadderdotcom]

How much extra space / power would it have taken to add a small monaural speaker to the enclosure?

[@ghicione]

I wonder if with some acetone spray would also do the trick. And maybe would be a bit less messy. Great idea anyway for smoothing things out.

[@PappaKnowsBest]

I would like to use a PI to take an ethernet camera signal directly into a monitor. Any suggestions on the best fit for this?

[@foxxfighterde]

Wouldn't it be possible to make a douple layer pcb ba your own with printing on both sides befor etching? Allineing the two sides Shouldn't ne that much trouble with your Laserprinter? Just me thinking, or do i Miss something?

[@intothevoid2571]

Could you make the screen rotate for vertical shmups? Or a different button layout?

[@isstvan82]

I've gotten good results with acetone finish by putting it into a spray bottle and misting the PCB. granted you have to do it fast because it'll destroy the bottle if it's got any plastic parts in it, but if you do it right it can give it a fairly nice dappled texture, like the Super Nintendo or Super Famicom had.

[@Woodythehobo]

Am I the only person who loves the dystopian chaos of bodge wires?

[@kierankay100]

hey i wonder if any one could help me as it would be much appreciated i am currently nearly finished restoring a moped and for the dash lights it has small bulbs but im just going to use leds as back lighting ..... i am using 5mm leds that are 3.3 volts at 25 mA ...... i am just wondering what resistors i should use ? and should i use a resistor on every positive on the led or 1 for the whole circuit and i am going to be using 6 leds all together and the supply voltage will be 12v by battery but once the engine has started it may be 13-15 volts and i think high amperage

[@connordeere4878]

Why didn't you build in a small speaker in to the case? Was it lack of space or to make the build as simple as possible?

[@colinsmith6480]

i think i wold have liked to have seen the speaker inside the box, what was the main reason why it was left out, just space, ?

[@ethanc2951]

I'm working on a portable as well and I was wondering what kind of battery was used in this project.

[@linkinworm1]

Hey ben, have you thought about using switches more like whats in the 3DS, the low profile buttons to save space, I don't know how they are soldered on exactly but they look and feel nicer than the larger ones you use, I also know that its easier to salvage the ones you use but for a future project have you ever though about the low profile ones?

[@kazuakimatsumoto3160]

At about 7:30 I have put something in the case that you created, but what are you over? Please tell me.

[@MrTranMan]

I'm interested to see what you guys can do with the newer version pi and its power!

[@L337g4m3r]

That is cool. This is interesting stuff for those with the tools and patients.

[@Skwisgar2322]

you could try screwing the part to a solid piece of wood or metal to limit warping?

[@eatonwebdesigns]

It's fun to watch you work.

[@damianwezzterman9218]

Great job Ben. For things I might have done differently... Outside of the few things you already mentioned at the end of the video, I would have gone with a horizontal layout like a PSP. Used a different colour scheme, or at the very least, made the back section black. The last thing would be to make the directional pad more of a traditional "+" shape whether it be like the NES controllers or the Genesis style where its a circle with the "+" shape on top. Then again, the directional circle you made may work just fine, I've never used one like it. It may even be a superior design to use with the method you used. The best directional pad I've ever used on a handheld was the one on a neogeo pocket, and if I could find one as close to that as I could, it would definitely go into my build should I ever decide to make something like this.

[@djb1ge]

Was the case design inspired by the Etch-a-Sketch? It certainly looks that way, especially with that d-disc.

[@azyfloof]

I keep hearing your phone go off during these videos, and keep checking to see if it was MY phone :P

[@GuardYourFlanks]

I'm sure it was probably mentioned before, but you are correct. The Japanese SNES (Super Famicom) had 4 colored buttons. As did the Neo-Geo MVS, and AES (when the CD Sytem was released).

[@danxepha4535]

17:50 Is it supposed to sound like that? The pitch is going all over the place. Or is it just that particular game?

[@gurnarok]

There are solder mask on ebay and might be around some shops, would be interesting to see you guys using it and show how to mask your own PCB

[@gurnarok]

***** but applying the solder mask is compleatly different thing, there could be a episode where they do a custom PCB and show how to apply solder mask to it

[@TimGreenOwb]

In Pi MAME Pt 1 you talk about hooking up individual switches to GPIO and now in pt 2, you just simply put CupCade parts in a box of your own design. Are you going to do the individual switches later or is this done and you're moving on?

[@scotty6435]

I know Ben likes tack switches but does he gave to use them on everything?! When was the last time you saw a game controller where the main controls had a high resistance, clicky response?

[@vanbandama3118]

Ben how was the temperature after playing? Was case hot as hell?

[@alex_capone]

Awesome build! BTW the super famicom had the multi colored buttons (japanese snes counterpart).

[@DiyintheGhetto]

Hello what kind of Button is that on the D-Pad?

[@angelcortes9051]

hi ben do you have the schematic for the smart charger?

[@gosunkugi]

Personally I'd make it bigger. At least twice the size, on the horizontal. Space for six action buttons, an internal speaker and of course, a much larger screen. Also a better D-pad, dual shock probably. Fantastic build, Ben, can't wait to see what you do next.

[@drinksanddice9528]

Ever tried an acetone steam bath on the ABS parts?

[@burn646]

the project looks great but the external speaker sounded horrible. Was this the speaker or how the raspberry pi works with audio?

[@TheTurnipKing]

Man, the sound seems pretty poor in Cupcade. Can it be reconfigured to use Mame4All?

[@itchyisvegeta]

Mr Ben Heck, Any chance we can get a follow up episode on hooking a Raspberry Pi up to an actual CRT arcade monitor?

[@Wirenfeldt1990]

Would love to see what you could do with one of the ODROID boards at some stage

[@devonheroux4249]

Hey Ben, i was wondering about your Linux computer, i need a good programming machine and it would have to run Linux but the Raspberry pi does not have enough power,and my workspace is small so i need something compact,

[@riccardo1796]

Could you make a small pi laptop running kali or something similar? That would be super useful, but i don't really have access to a 3d printer

[@adrianruth9054]

Is that controller pcb anywhere we can download and make?

[@glenponder592]

whats this sarder hes using? ive always used solder

[@ten132]

My hands shake when I solder, any advice? I can't do any soldering at all.

[@LimitedBoundaries]

Love watching these projects! It would be cool to see something with the Arduino Yun. :D

[@brannanmcneil1605]

Your videos are always entertaining. Keep on makeing.

[@10upstudios]

Anyone got anyyy ideas on how long the battery on this thing would last

[@RocketLawnchair]

Does Ben not noice the horribly warbled and garbled sound of the emulation?

[@josuecrespo8386]

hey ben i try to add a usb port to my keybord and id did not work was wodering what i did wrong

[@TheRealFrankWizza]

This is pretty boss, nice work

[@AdamBrowning92]

Anyone know if the files to 3D print it have been posted yet?

[@bilalonl]

Hey Ben! I would love to see you work with the makey makey device. I know you can come up something cool with it!

[@jakeabel2548]

I wonder if The Ben Heck Show could do a price cost for making the items. Just about how much it costs.

[@logikgr]

If they did that, then people would complaint that it costs too much and that they'd just rather buy a pre-made/kit item. It's like those cooking shows where they show you how to cook "healthy" food -- yo go to the store -- and realize that you spent $50-60 on that one recipe.

[@MexieMex]

logikgr But isn't giving a price like Jake Abel requested avoiding that very problem? The thing is though, it would be very difficult to price because most (if not all) of *****'s projects involve a lot of "I've already got these components here, so I'll use them instead of ordering something new" (and possibly better/more suited to the job).

[@jakeabel2548]

I was just talking about doing that for future builds. So people get an idea of what it costs.

[@MexieMex]

Jake Abel I do agree, but as I said as he is using stuff he already has and/or cannibalised parts, so an accurate price would be quite tricky, but a rough ball park figure would be good :^>

[@FlameSoulis]

***** To be fair, all you REALLY need are the TFT screen, Pi, SD card, and some way of input. While I can praise Adafruit's TFT screen, it is really pricy and while they did have a non touchscreen variant, I can't find it anymore. Either way, my estimate after all the work involved is easily $100 (not cheaping out on the SD card). On the flip-side, if you don't mind being adventurous, you can acquire a mini car monitor with RCA inputs for about $10 on eBay and Amazon, and with some minor tweaking, you can make it accept 5v. Just replace the Adafruit screen with that and you basically have the same thing, minus the extra kernel modifying required to use it in the first place. At the same time, the second input means you have a portable TV, which I have played PS2 games on with no problem at all. As for inputs, just find a mini joypad of some kind and salvage from there. You can use one of the USB ports (assuming you made the jump from the A+) and most of the controller is plastic with rumble motors so it will shrink pretty quickly (see the OUYA project). Sure, you are using the savings from not buying the TFT screen, but you can't argue you are saving yourself a ton of headache, making the project easier for a newer person. If you still prefer to use the GPIO, then by all means, do so (more savings and power to you). All in all, I have built a portable Pi in the past, where I used a camera bag as the case, which let me house a bigger battery (one of the eBay "50,000mah" USBs), a full USB HUB, and the Pi in an acrylic case with mini fan glued on for better cooling. I used either the mini screen or video glasses to see what the Pi had to say and used my phone for tethering and power (thanks to the battery). I have since moved on and am working on an arm mounted version which is much more reduced in size, and does have a higher bill, but at this point, it is a project I truly enjoy, even with the heftier price tag.

[@Macabri_2k10]

i believe an acetone vapor chamber yields better results than just sploshing it all over the piece the acetone can remain on the piece longer and more evenly than with the other method, because of that it probalby would also not warp the pieces

[@super-tim2022]

Did anybody know the Name of the backround song in 16:35 is?

[@Crowforge]

My SNES had purple and grey buttons though some version had more colors.

[@TheTurnipKing]

11:44 PAL and Japanese Super Nintendo both had funky multicoloured buttons.

[@Gdawg28x]

Is this going to be available as a kit to buy?

[@mowburnt]

Love it. Just needed the style of the original

[@muffenme]

How much would you charge for one of these units.

[@Surms41]

OOHHH! The Ben Heck Show You should do something that can harness the power of the new R-Pi 2 :D

[@martinbreckons2073]

I think I'd have tightened up tolerances once first printed to give a higher quality to the buttons. And probably wouldn't have use acetone. But otherwise I may try my own Pimame sometime. Very cool project, as ever.

[@Ratstail91]

I like the idea of a portable handheld that supports homebrew games. Something like this could come pretty close, especially if you explicitly support it. It'd be cheaper than the open pandora as well.

[@petergreek8482]

Nice job Ben. Keep it up.

[@linuxgnuru]

Yes, I must see Alyson's space jam.

[@RallyDon82]

another thing whats with the d-pad choices? the first portable you made had an anlog joystick, not ideal considering most of the games require a digital dpad, and now with this one you have what looks like a thumbstick/dpad hybrid. Why not just use 4 tact switches for a traditional d-pad setup much better and will be much more responsive.

[@HowToGuys]

Awesome

[@xanokothe]

I would be a good idea any integrated sound speaker, no? Anyway, great project Ben!

[@neomage2021]

next time try using an acetone vapor bath. Works great for smoothing ABS parts and it comes out very even.

[@doro4414]

Hey Ben, how about portable 486 dx gaming machine?

[@TesserLink]

you should have use a filler like bondo and then sanded it smooth then gave it a nice paint job. the acetone bath gave it a really cheap and bad look.

[@ssphaneuf1986]

I've been watching your channel for the last 6 months and decided to buy my 1st rasberry pi2 because of all your projects. I just set up retropie 3.5 for the 1st time. it's awesome. I've been able to get most emulators working correctly except the mame emulators. I've already gone to the wiki link for the mame and I just cant figure out how to get the roms to work correctly. Is there any way lyou can point me in the right direction? and possibly even upload a how to mame guide 2016? i'm sure i'm not the 1st person to ask.

[@ILordSpawnI]

Can someone test nfl blitz99 with the Raspberry Pi 2? Does it work?

[@ElectronicsEnthusiast]

What I would have definitely have done different is connecting the PCB and screen with a ribbon cable instead of pinheaders directly into the lcd. It makes the project really complicated, because it has to line up correctly and I am not that confident in my designing skills. Appart from that maybe different colours or an extra ssd slot for movie storage (to watch videos out of home), but a good project altogether

[@pgame20]

"Yeah, one day I just wanted to see how flammable this stuff was.....and it's very flammable" Story of my life.

[@sam-ur7rz]

13:20 The button sounds... ooohhhhhhh i like...

[@Rhetorical346]

Super Famicon had colored buttons. The US version had the purple/grey combo.

[@brandon-butler]

I'm surprised you didn't include any decals to give it some style 8) Also why not include a speaker?

[@BastosGraphics]

can anyone link the screen hey used?

[@guilleout]

you can actually do a doble sided pcb with your method, or photoresistent method too.

[@Danjovic]

It was an awesome build! The color reminded me some 80's computers (specially Alice from Matra-Hachette). Wel, you asked for suggestions, then here you are: 1 ) You can avoid the mess with ferric chloride by using HCL an H202 but do it on open air because of the gases it generates and don't forget to use protective gloves and glasses. 2) I would have choose which GPIOs to use AFTER I have designed the board with straight connections to the buttons to avoid the use of so much wires. 3) For signal wiring you could also use enamel wire (like mr Elm-chan.org builds). Finally I have a request. you have some wonderful furniture in your workshop, some of them look DIY builds. You could show them someday, maybe share the plans for construction. Best Regards!

[@sebastianlucas7449]

What CAD program do you use?

[@iplaywithmyself211]

Wow, the arcade version of Ninja Gaiden. Brings back memories of playing that down at 7-11.

[@t3kn0logyinhumanlife35]

Good job Ben Heck u r the best!

[@zediusmelichor1815]

Very cool build! What would I have done different? I would have used a self made double-sided PCB with drill holes for bridging. No need to outsource it when you can just run short wires through the board itself. Green masking the pcb is a simple process which I have in the past and would have done here. Also would have designed the chassis wider and longer, used a different battery, flat cell instead of round cell, but that is a small issue and your choice only caused a minor chassis design problem. Would have painted the chassis white rather than acetone it[that color is just awful]. Also would have included other emulators as you designed enough buttons for them, possibly including left and right shoulder buttons. The system you designed has enough computing power to run MAME and therefore has enough for many others. Those are my thoughts.

[@Snufflumpagus]

I'd like to see this Space Jam dance bahaha Also these videos always make me want to make some kind of portable. I suppose I should get to work on one!