Benchdogs.co.uk Mk1 Fence Review

[@TheWoodgrafter]

Hi, and thank you for watching this video. I hope you find it useful and I look forward to your feedback. Cheers Andy

[@melvinschumacher4280]

Can u please send me web site to order bench dogs please

[@dmcguinness100]

Hello Andy. I’m David from Enhanced-Kitchens.co.uk. Kitchen Installation Experts. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I’m always looking at improving our efficiency, and accuracy whilst on site. I’ve just invested in the Peter Parf system to make an mobile MFT, and have now taken on board your ‘Top Tips’ in this video, and ordered the bench dogs kit. Cheers, looking forward to watching more of your videos. David.

[@TheWoodgrafter]

Hi David, Always great to have a professional on board - please jump in at any time with advice and tips. I love the accuracy this set up brings, I don’t think you will be disappointed. Cheers Andy

[@davidbelfast15]

Really helpful review of MFT 3 and also previously bench dogs. When I join two tracks together I found I can align the tracks for straightness with one connecting bar only. Thank you.

[@TheWoodgrafter]

Hi David, I would have though the single adapter would give you a weak joint. But if it works for you, then that is a good result. Andy

[@davidbelfast15]

@@TheWoodgrafter Hi Andy, The combination of one connector and the stickiness of the track pads in combination worked, where I could get the two rails to cooperate to close the joint gap in parallel. Really should have some sort of joining clamp that uses the two holes in the end of the rails and also allows the saw base to pass over. I may be struggling to design a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. Videos are good!

[@paulwhealy5243]

One connector could never be trusted using the grubbed pads. If you pick one end of this rail up and move it over on the bench just a tad, the far rail would stick to the bench and the near rail my be out by 2-3 mm. The second connector makes it rigid once it’s 100% straight. His solution to lay the rail on edge to tighten was not good either. The two rails were sitting on 2 different MFT tables. Very unlikely that they are both exactly in line on the surface to the last mm. His perfect solution was the third rail that showed the gap in the middle. He should have used it to hold the other two straight while he tightened the screws.

[@timcfields]

I saw a good tip somewhere for joining the rails that makes perfect sense. Leave a gap between the rails the thickness of a business card since there is no guarantee that the end is perfectly perpendicular to the rail edge, so butting them tight could pull the edges out of alignment. The bigger part of the tip was this: with the rail clamp set screws left loose, put your Festool track saw on the tracks, spanning the gap between the two rails, and then fully tighten the rail tension cams on the saw. That will force both rails to draw up tight and perfectly parallel to the rail edge. Now tighten the rail clamps and you are good to go.

[@TheWoodgrafter]

Yes that caught me out, I assumed they were square - so ended up with a bow in the middle of the joined rail. Now if I do join the rails, then I leave a gap as you say and use a flat surface. Cheers Andy

[@TTHighlights]

I feel that the length of the saw is a bit short, still leaving some room for mistake. Why not use a piece of MDF, say 1m long, and use a router to make a slit in the MDF. This helps you align the rails nice and easy.

[@RossWilliamsDC]

Good show. After much annoyance, I finally sold my MFT/3 accessory kit and now use bench dogs and a rail square for greater accuracy, speed, and convenience with the MFT/3 bench.

[@TheWoodgrafter]

Hi Ross, Makes sense, obviously did a similar thing in my set up. Will be selling the accessory kit with one of the MFT’s in the near future. Cheers Andy

[@JohnVanderbeck]

Festool actually recommends leaving a small gap between joined rails of 1-2mm because the edges are not guaranteed to be square. To square up the joint, use a TS straddling the gap.

[@TheWoodgrafter]

Hi John, Thank you for the tip. Cheers Andy

[@competencyplus5144]

Excellent insightful video. You've down the groundwork for me, as I was gonna purchase the MFT3 with accessories. I also have a small shop too. So I shall be copying your shopping list. Thanks Andy, as always!

[@TheWoodgrafter]

+Competency Plus Hi thank you for the feedback, don’t forget you can buy most of the things I use in the shop over at my affiliate store www.thewoodgrafter.com Adding more things every day. Mind you, if I started again, I would build the bench - similar style to MFT more robust to improve its hand tool performance and maximise that storage space underneath. Cheers Andy

[@RpR_Makes]

Andy i regularly watch your videos but confess i do not own an incra fence or indeed any Festool tools so most of the time the incra videos and Festool ones are way above my level of woodwork skills and budget. However, this video sparked a seed in my head tonight in that you can mix the Festool MFT with other cheaper products and get the same results. This now opens me to the idea of getting the MFT table and adding the setup shown in your video. Good video Andy and please more videos like this one please.

[@TheWoodgrafter]

+Richard Hi Richard, if you are on a budget you can make the MFT, checkout the Parf guide system from Peter Parfit. In fact, I think Peter has made a video on making an MFT - if you aren’t familiar search for The New Brit workshop. A simple frame and a thick mdf top with a series of holes will serve you well. Couple that with the Incra flip fence, the dogs and a rail and you have a really good solution on a budget. Also the Makita track saw and track, and the Bosh track saw and track get good reviews, all less than the equivalent Festool. Mat Estlea has a good video on the Bosch system. And from memory, has also built a very very large MFT in his new shop. I imagine you could build the table and kit it out with the Bosch or Makita for less than the Festool MFT. Let me know how you get on, and feel free to bounce ideas. Glad you like this video, and thank you for your comments. Talk soon Andy

[@RpR_Makes]

Thanks Andy. Yes being thinking about using Parf guide 2 and making a Stanton bench to fit on my workbench. Keep those videos coming Andy, you are now my most watched channel after Peter Millard, the Gosforth handyman and the Restoration couple.

[@TheWoodgrafter]

+Richard Hi Richard, sounds interesting. Would love to see the pics when you have finished, or why not make a video and post it on the channel. Love Peters’ work, in fact when I started the videos I tried to base my videos on the 10 min workshop idea - but over time I have drifted into the current longer format - guess I just have to much to say 😁 I found Andy Mac through Wood Talk podcast, and love his no nonsense opinions and delivery. I have heard of the Restoration Couple, but am not familiar with the work - i’ll check it out. Anyway, I will take it as a compliment to be amongst this group. Cheers. Andy

[@groundhogssplit]

To increase stability, get two pairs of cross brace supports (part no. 495502), one pair for each MFT. I've got those on my 2 joined tables and the whole assembly is plenty stable enough to use hand planes. Front-to-back still has movement, but side-to-side is solid.

[@TheWoodgrafter]

Hi and thank you for this. I have looked at the cross braces, but have also seen some reviews that suggest its still not stable enough, As I also have the hand tool bench - I don't really need to plane on them anyway, so it's not really a problem to me - more of an observation. But, yes - I could see that two benches with braces on both would give a stable platform. Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment. Cheers Andy

[@warrensmith2902]

Good ideas. If you want to keep the tilt feature for the cross rail, you might want to look at a Slop Stop that takes the play out of the rail.

[@TheWoodgrafter]

+Warren Smith Hi Warren, thank you for taking the time to comment. I am really loving the Benchdogs rail solution. The one thing I didn’t discuss in the video was the time it takes to move the rail from one place to the other to give me multiple cutting options. Cheers Andy

[@ko6128]

I have the mft3 and always amazed how many people have their own videos on how to align it, gotta wonder why festool didn’t make it perfect to begin with ?

[@TheWoodgrafter]

It’s pretty good out of the box, As always it depends on what you are using it for. I would always spend the time to square it to the table though. If only for peace of mind. Cheers Andy

[@riley165]

I really enjoyed this video!

[@TheWoodgrafter]

Thanks Rob, Sorry for the delay in the response. KZbin doesn't always notify me of comments. Andy

[@josecuervo4749]

If you set the MFT guide rail up correctly, there will be no play in the rail once the weight of the saw is on the guide rail. Also, if you set the guide rail up correctly, it will always land on the alignment peg. It took me a little while to figure this out but once you do correct setup, and set square, it is dead accurate.

[@TheWoodgrafter]

+Jose Cuervo Hi Jose, yes agree. Not sure it came across in the video but I wanted a solution that could be moved around the table quickly and easily without the need to re-calibrate each time. But still have dead on accuracy. Utilising the 20mm grid gives me that every time. I also wanted to be able have the MFT closer to the wall than the pivot allows. I still use the benchdog system on the MFT and haven’t missed the Festool pivot solution. Cheers Andy

[@Audioventura]

I have a question of the rail dogs: I assume they have a bit of left to right play when not srewed all the way down to the rail. How do you then make sure that this doesn't mess with the alignment of the rail, once everything is screwed together and inserted into the holes? As I see it one of the guide dogs could be tightened onto the rail being in the leftmost position, while the other one could be locked down in the right most position. IMO this could only be prevented by using three raildogs, since the rail itself and the holes in which the raildogs are eventually being inserted are straight. Another option would probably be to tighten the dogs to the rail prior to inserting them into the holes, but then you might end having to go back and forth until the dogs fit into the holes, which might be annoying.

[@TheWoodgrafter]

Hi Good question, To address the last comment first - yes it is very annoying going back and forth. The way I do it is to tighten the back dog up and leave the one nearest to me loose. Then insert the rail and tighten it up from under the table.The nuts that slide into the rail are an interference fit - so although the dog moves left to right the nut doesn’t. That way when you tighten it down from under the table it all lines up. I have never had an error with this method, and haven’t had any reports of the issues describe. I guess over time you may get some wear and tear in the fit - time will tell. I am not sure I understand the three dog option, as that would reduce the width of the board - so would seem counter productive. Cheers Andy

[@Audioventura]

@@TheWoodgrafterThanks so much for your answer and sorry for not correcting my post. After thinking it thorugh later on I realized that the positions of the holes are fixed and thuswhen tightening the second bolt as you do, the thing won't have any other option that to square itself out. Thanks again for replying so quirckly, love your content!

[@TheWoodgrafter]

Thank you.

[@JohnVanderbeck]

You make it looks so easy but I was futzing with these things for a good 20 minutes and they absolutely won't go onto the fence. The bolts just aren't long enough!

[@TheWoodgrafter]

Hi John, That’s strange, there is a technique but never had that problem. Have you tried connecting the t.nuts and then sliding it onto the fence ?

[@JohnVanderbeck]

@@TheWoodgrafter I did finally get them on. Turns out I had the nuts on backwards and the tolerances are so tight that even a half turn one way or the other is enough to make them either too tight to fit, or fall off. Honestly not loving them but will give them some time.

[@crus1n]

Thanks Andy for the very informative vid eo, I think I will be following your advice to the letter and investing in all the accessories you reccomm end, cheers

[@crus1n]

Thanks Andy Subscribed😇

[@TheWoodgrafter]

Hi Dixie C It is worth looking through the Benchdogs.co.uk site they have much more in the range now the when I made this video. But the fence, rail dogs, b collars and top protectors are still a key part of my work flow. Also at the moment, I think they have a sale on :-) Cheers Andy

[@crus1n]

@@TheWoodgrafter Great Andy, I'll do that now, thanks for the update👍

[@TheWoodgrafter]

Excellent, thank you and welcome. Let me know if you have any questions or requests.

[@olivepressdesign]

Glad you found the Holy Rail!!! 😊 Do you have the link or specific info for the Incra fence you spoke about at the end?

[@TheWoodgrafter]

LoL Thank you for the comment, this was the one that was in my mind. woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/products/incra-telescoping-flip-fence-27-to-49 Andy

[@olivepressdesign]

Thank you. You’re doing a great job with all these videos. Lots of info, great camera angles and presentation. 🙏

[@TheWoodgrafter]

@@olivepressdesign You are welcome and thank you for your comments

[@chevyimp5857]

Such an interesting and informative video... Did you ever consider making a custom Polk style work bench?

[@TheWoodgrafter]

Thank you, No not really, I like Ron’s design - but I had a pretty clear view in my mind as to what I wanted. No regrets whatsoever. Cheers Andy

[@ericb.davenport9762]

I always enjoy your videos. Thank you.

[@TheWoodgrafter]

+Eric B. Davenport Thanks for the feedback Eric. Cheers Andy

[@rjjrrailsgscalesolenske5231]

Excellent video, very well explained thankyou for a few good ideas

[@TheWoodgrafter]

Hi, Thank you for your comments, I'm glad you enjoyed it and found some use. Cheers Andy

[@c.f.sedgwick1885]

Your videos are very helpful. Thank You

[@TheWoodgrafter]

+C S Hi C S, Thank you for the feedback. Kind Regards Andy

[@cmcollett2]

Still not sure what the two Allen bolts do?

[@TheWoodgrafter]

If you want to fasten the fence by using the bottom slot rather than the top one. The star screw tends to foul on the MFT top. So you can use the Allen bolts instead. Cheers Andy

[@stuartwilliams7903]

Hi Great video as usual, I have the same problem as you mentioned in the video lack of space , I have been pondering for a while about purchasing a MFT , but worried about the space at the back just as you said . Without the protractor what is the gap from wall to the table, this would help me greatly. Yours stuart

[@TheWoodgrafter]

+stuart williams Hi Stuart, I am not in the shop for a couple of weeks, so can’t give you an exact measurement. However, if you are using the hinge from Festool then allow the length of the TS55 form the back of the table. If you are using the rail dogs (as per my set up) then allow for the length of the TS55 from the last set of holes. This will allow you to complete the cut of the stock and still have support for the track saw after the cut. You can of course push the MFT up to the wall, an then just pull it forward as required. Cheers Andy

[@stuartwilliams7903]

The Woodgrafter thanks for the reply ,not in a great hurry

[@TheWoodgrafter]

stuart williams Hi, I’ll measure it in the next monthly update video and discuss a couple of options. Cheers Andy

[@stuartwilliams7903]

The Woodgrafter thanks

[@markjervis8558]

Great vid Andy. Some useful tips. I went the same way by removing the mft accessories and went down the fence/benchdog route.

[@TheWoodgrafter]

+Mark Jervis Hi Mark, yes a lot of people seem to have come to the same conclusion - in fact it was a recommendation that took me down this route. Cheers Andy

[@davidmatke248]

Nice video. Do you happen to know what size hex head screws replace for the knobs for the fence dogs? Don't you find it much slower having to unscrew the rail dog from below to move a new piece of wood to be cut? I like the MFT hinge brackets because it's so fast to just lift and then slide a new board under.

[@TheWoodgrafter]

+David Matke Hi David, the bolts and thumb screws are M6. I do love the lift feature of the rail, but I tend to move it to multiple parts of the dual MFT. As an example, I may always want to cut from the same side of a long board and retain the same ref face. So I will move the cutting station between MFTs. That is a pain in the rear to move and align the tilt fence every time. I only tighten the dogs under the table when taking the fence off, it makes it easier - otherwise the dogs try and come out of the hole at an angle and then jam. When in use, the rail will easily tilt and allow me to slide the timber in an out. Of course that depends on the size of the timber. Thanks for the comment, Talk soon Andy

[@geoffhayday6003]

Thanks, great video. I have spent ages trying to square my MFT, watched many of the videos and concluded it is not the best design. The worst thing is having to square it up again when cutting different thicknesses of material. I have the same 2 1.4m rails as you and also found joining them in a straight line fiddly, so thinking of splashing out on the long rail as you have done. The other mistake I made with the connectors is it is very easy to over tighten the grub screws, making little dents in the rail. I have bought the £200 TSO square instead, which clamps to the guide rail to put it square even without the MFT. Handy for cutting down 8’ x 4’ sheets without lifting them, I can cut them on the floor with a sacrificial sheet underneath. All in all we shouldn’t be spending money making up for the deficiencies in the Festool system, my first disappointment with their products.

[@TheWoodgrafter]

Hi, thanks for the comment. Yes if I had my time again, I would build a dedicated workbench with the 20mm hole grid, and then use a fence and rail (in the grid) to give the accuracy of cuts. I wouldn’t bother with the hinged rail. In essence that is what I have done in this video, long rails instead of jointed rails every time. The bench would also be very stable, without the associated MFT rock. I like the TSO square as well, starts to give you accuracy away from the bench, for those big panels you mention. Benchdogs.co.uk are coming out with something similar in the near future - so interested to see what they do. I am about to sell the two MFT’s and build a shop version. I do feel that some Festool products are brand over substance, but it is easy to buy into the brand. For me the power tools and vacs are still the best on the market - but the accessories and benches have some strong competition. Cheers Andy

[@davidgarofalo3800]

Why not just build your own Parf table? I think that would suit your work flow better. And use the MFT for routing application.

[@TheWoodgrafter]

Hi David, That is pretty much what I am going to do next, reserve the MFT for site based work and build a more substantial permanent solution for the shop. The MFT’s have searched me well - but now I have brought hand tools back into the workflow - they just aren’t stable enough. New project coming soon. Cheers Andy

[@deano657]

Great video I often refer to your videos to help me with my new mft tables, one question I have with rip cuts in a small shop how do you break down the sheets in full size? I am trying to jig my own kind of setup and using both mft tables the other way but with your setup allows me to be able to reach easy then with x2 extenders I have made with t tracks at 2.5m apart allow me to make a ripping Station Do you have any suggestions or videos o. This?

[@TheWoodgrafter]

Hi Dean, Thank you for the feedback. To be honest I tend to break down the full sheets outside the workshop using my long rail and a number of batons on the floor. Cut down to oversize for the project, then finalise one the MFT’s With my set up, two MFT and then the CMS I have a rip capacity of 3.5M, so it tends to be the width in the shop that is the limitation. I do have a number of roller stands that can support the board of the side of the MFT, but now and then I will separate the MFT’s and flip through 90degrees (sounds like you do the same). I haven’t made a video on this - but I will be buying and breaking down a couple of full sheets of Medite for the new bench build - so will address it then. Breaking down full sheets in the small shop type thing. Cheers Andy

[@deano657]

@@TheWoodgrafter Thanks for your reply Andy will look forward to your new video, I rigged an easy to lift arm on my mft table to help get sheets on the bench and can recommend especially with a narrow shop :)

[@georgecronin3592]

Why dont you add an extra bench dog to each 1400 rail ?

[@TheWoodgrafter]

Hi George, Not sure how that helps me - what’s in your mind ? Cheers Andy

[@georgecronin3592]

@@TheWoodgrafter As usual I SPEAK WITHOUT PLUGGING IN MY BRAIN The way I use my homemade reference table, which is inclined similar to a wall panel saw ( to save space ) is to cut sheet to a near size, with my circular saw, then set up to precise dimentions on my table similar to the M.F.T. I use the cut line of my sawblade as the datum (reference cut ) working away from both sides of the blade kerf (again dependent on saw blade width ) I also use a grid of 100mm off of the established cut line to the right, but set back 200mm to the left so as not to cut through any pre drilled location holes. This is dependent upon saw guide widths, but most seem to be 200mm. I love your site many thanks. p.s. Ive been a carpenter for over 43 years, but always open to new ways to get it right, or is it left ?/?/?

[@TheWoodgrafter]

LoL, you implied a lot in such a short comment - thank you for clarifying. Sounds like an interesting set up, and makes sense. I am interested in the ‘inclined’ bit any chance of a couple of pictures either over on the web site of directly to [e-mail] Cheers Andy

[@TTHighlights]

Very nice video! Just designing a new workbench and this video gave me a lot of inspiration. I find the MFT3 fairly expensive and don't need it to be mobile. So now considering using only a Festool-compatible workbench top (96x96mm holes of 20mm, you can make that yourself if you want, there are kits for it). Combined with that, using the idea from the video where you align the rail with bench dogs. For the fence, I still wonder if there is not a solution that will cost me less depth of the table top. Incra also has 2-sided T-rails, these are much more compact and probably stiff enough :-) (a single T-rail probably is not). Anyway, more food for thought, thanks for triggering me haha :-)

[@TheWoodgrafter]

Hi, My bench is nearly complete, I will be using the Trend router jig (very nervous) to see how it goes to create the MFT. Video coming soon. I find the Benchdogs system really good and takes up less bench space than the Festool solution. If you are building your own, I would look at the Parf Guide system - especially the solution that allows you to offset holes. You can use that to create offset holes at the back of the table so you will have achieve what you are trying to achieve. Let me know what you decide. Andy

[@fotopdo]

I would not recommend the Festool rail joiners, the set screws go directly into the track making a divot that the screw is going to return to every time. I got the makita joiners, they use two piece design, the set screws push the parts apart locking everything together, no screws into the rail. Also TSO have just released there own product with a dovetail shape that apparently aligns the rails perfectly as they tighten. Most important is leaving a very slight gap between the rails, the ends are not machined to be dead square, so pushing them right together can keep them from being parallel.

[@TheWoodgrafter]

Hi, Thank you for the comment, great tip on the TSO and Makita rail joiners. I must admit, I don’t tend to use the joiners much anymore - I invested in track lengths that serve my purpose. But I can see situations (especially when mobile) where they will come in use. I will check them out. Cheers Andy

[@Chimp_No_1]

Hi Andy Thanks for your wonderful videos ! Do you have any update on when your MFT style workbench will be out? Can’t wait 😊.

[@TheWoodgrafter]

+Chimp No 1 Thank you for the feedback, yes it still on the cards - will probably get to that after this coffee table build. The full build will most likely be a course over on the web site - with higlites on youtube. Watch this space. Andy

[@Benchdogtools]

Thanks for sending me the link to your great video using some of our products. very well done and very informative.

[@TheWoodgrafter]

+Bench Dogs Hi Bench Dogs, Thank you for taking the time to comment. They are great products and a lot of the community have gone down a similar route. I have just ordered the dog collars as well (after Stew commented on this video). So wil be reviewing them soon. Please keep innovating with your products, and thank you on behalf of us all. BTW, we had a question on shipping to Australia - I checked out your web site and you do indeed ship internationally. Talks soon. Andy

[@ChinskiChat]

Great stuff. Have you thought about using the parf guide or similar to put in another couple holes nearer the fence? Plus, when you used the 2 Festool rail holders, were they set on the first (factory) hole or the second? Cheers - keep up the great work.

[@TheWoodgrafter]

+ChinskiChat Hi, yes I have and still may do that to move the fence closer to the edge, as the dogs can slide up and down the rail I may not need the accuracy of the parf guide. But watch this space... I tend to use the first hole and then whatever hole works best for the second dog. Cheers Andy

[@ChinskiChat]

The Woodgrafter I was thinking about the black mft clamp you bought a second of ... they have two hole settings that the top tightening knob can go into ... jus wondering whether using the other hole would affect the level of play (watch the spring doesn’t jump out at you)

[@TheWoodgrafter]

Hi, Thats a good point, I will have a look next time I have 5 mins and let you know. Regards Andy

[@SteveHit1]

Thanks for that very useful video, which was presented perfectly.

[@TheWoodgrafter]

+Steve Hitchen Hi Steve, Thank you for the feedback. Kind Regards Andy

[@chriscianci317]

Hi I appreciate your research and assessment of the MFT, you help your viewers sort through the challenging part of the system. I love the system but it’s not without flaws and you show some great fixes Thank you so much Best

[@TheWoodgrafter]

+Chris Cianci Hi Chris, thank you for the feedback. Glad you're enjoying the videos, agree it's good but not perfect. Cheers Andy

[@ChinskiChat]

Watching this again (lol), you could use the Festool track height adjusters and slide the track up against a couple dogs to align square? Yea, cut line prob over holes tho ... I jus like em.

[@TheWoodgrafter]

+ChinskiChat Hi ChinskiChat - you could indeed do that. Have you seen the follow on video - I do exactly that, I use the collars on the track dogs to demonstrate a large B Dog, then show a B dog mini that doesn’t interfere with Track saw. AND I do use that technique on long rip cuts when roughing out stock - but use the table top protectors so I don’t cut into the table. I can’t get on with cross cuts over holes though. I know that Peter Parfait cuts additional holes on the table so you can use the rail with dogs, and avoid the holes. Choices choices choices Cheers Andy

[@nobbywood]

Hello from Colonge😊 I love my MFT😍

[@TheWoodgrafter]

+NobbyWood Hi NoobyWood, yes it is a great table. I love it even more now I have the Bench Dogs. Thank you for getting in touch. Andy

[@jdavis460]

Re the MFT stability. Have Festool stopped making the diagonal leg braces?

[@TheWoodgrafter]

+Brian E Hi Brian, no they still make them. Although people (including me) talk about the stability of the MFT - they are in fact good enough for if you are using them for power tools. It’s only when you introduce hand tools into the equation that the stability is an issue. Even then - the braces won’t bring the MFT to a point that make them effective for hand tool work. I don’t even notice the wobble on the benches in normal use - it’s only when I am making the videos that I am aware of it. Cheers Andy

[@raymondslinn7070]

Hi You have just illustrated exactly what I am in the process of doing and I look forward to your next video

[@TheWoodgrafter]

+Raymond Slinn Hi Raymond - glad you found it useful. Let me know how you get on. Kind Regards Andy

[@robertmelton4001]

Great video, thank you for posting, very informative, after watching just placed my order with Benchdog.co.uk.

[@TheWoodgrafter]

Thanks for the feedback, glad you found it useful. Some more Benchdog reviews coming soon. Cheers Andy

[@simonh73]

You could get rid of the fence altogether and use a TSO square. tsoproducts.com/tso-guide-rail-squares/grs-16-pe-parallel-edge-guide-rail-square/ The new version includes my suggestion of allowing it to be attached to the MFT bracket. The only feature lost is the stops but it's a very flexible no fuss setup.

[@TheWoodgrafter]

Hi Simon, Yes I saw the TSO square on Andy Mac's channel. It looks pretty good - but not what I need in my shop at the moment. I could just use a couple of dogs instead of the fence and that would give a much more cost effective solution. HOWEVER I do want a more effective fence solution - I have the Benchdogs version of the fence coming soon, so will probably re-visit the solution. I'll also ping TSO to see if they want me to review the Square as part of an update. Cheers Andy

[@the_humble_workshop5718]

As an owner of the MFT3 table I find something else that's irritating, and the fence dogs could help me. All MFT3 tables seemed to be for right hand people(the hinged bracket will only fit for right hand cuts ), festool don't like left handed woodworkers 😂😂😂😂,so getting rid of the hinged bracket and using the rail dogs would allow me to use the left side of the table and of course gives me more room 👍....is there any 'left handed' woodworkers out there having the same problems???...🤔🤔

[@TheWoodgrafter]

+the_humble_ workshop Hello again, now that is an interesting point, I am sat here playing that through in my mind. Would it help you ? The TS55 is designed to cut on the right hand side of the rail, so even if you used the left hand side of the table you would still be cutting on the right hand side of the rail. You could move the positioning brackets on the MFT to the left hand side of the table and have the same result with the folding rail. But I do like the bench dog solution. If I am not mistaken, I think the centronic screwdriver comes in a left-hand version so Festool have catered for you 😂 but beyond that - its all pretty much right-handed. Now that is a gap in the market. Cheers Andy

[@the_humble_workshop5718]

@@TheWoodgrafter I was just thinking about the 'rail' forgot about ts55 being on the 'right'😂😂😂, it's not hard to use the track saw 'right handed' the track does all the work 🤣just find it 'irritating' ,its the best thing I've brought for my workshop,don't regret buying it at all, I'm just about to order the fence dogs just to get rid of that protractor thing and get some space back, keep up the good work 👍👍👍👍👍

[@markkoons7488]

Es muy complicado, no?

[@TheWoodgrafter]

+Mark Koons No, es mucho más fácil que el sistema Festool.

[@matteason989]

Just so you know. .it appears you're instructing to butt the rails firmly against each other when joining. This is wrong. Festool does not guarantee the ends of the rails are square. If you butt two rails together when joining you're almost guaranteed to throw them out of alignment. You are supposed to leave a gap. While the FS rail connectors aren't good the Makita connectors fit the FS rails and are fantastic. They wedge when tightened and the joined rails can't come out of alignment in use.

[@TheWoodgrafter]

+Matt Eason Hi Matt, thank you that is a good point and I never realised that - I assumed they would be square. That would indeed explain the misalignment. I would have thought that leaving a gap would make it harder to get a straight alignment. But I will give it a go and see what happens. I am not familiar with Makita system - I will look into it. Cheers Andy

[@matteason989]

@@TheWoodgrafter Keep up with the videos. I'm enjoying them.

[@borstroem]

TSO Products has announced some "Self-Aligning Guide Rail Connectors". They should be even better than the Makita ones. They are not on the market yet but perhaps they are worth the wait 🤪

[@TheWoodgrafter]

+Matt Eason Cheers Matt, I am enjoying making them. Talk soon Andy

[@TheWoodgrafter]

+borstroem That would be a great product, anything that can align the guides in a guaranteed repeatable way would be a good investment. I’ll look into TSO Products and see if I can find some for review. Cheers Andy

[@mjunaid8729]

Why didn't you just build yourself a Paulk style table 👀

[@TheWoodgrafter]

+M Junaid Simply put I wanted to accelerate the workshop and keep an element of portability. However, in hindsight, I would have built a bench. I have learnt a lot from working on the MFT, so know what I want now. The next project on the list is the “modern workbench” a bench that will give me the functionality and versatility of an MFT but will also allow for hand tool work for refinement during the workflow. So not the Paulk bench - but yes a self build. Cheers Andy

[@mjunaid8729]

@@TheWoodgrafter that's great, can't wait

[@borstroem]

Hi Andy, thanks for another great video! I have gone through the exact same process as you. I ended up with the fence dogs like you but I use Parf Dogs (the long ones) and the Parf Dog Rail Clips instead of the rail dogs - and it is working great 👍

[@TheWoodgrafter]

+borstroem Hi, I had a look at the rail clips, the only thing I didn’t like was the fact it seemed to put the cutting line across the holes. I saw a video by Peter, where he drilled offset holes to allow for this. That would cause me problems as I want lots of flexibility, but still zero clearance under the board. Is my understanding correct, and does it effect the cut ? Cheers Andy

[@borstroem]

yes, you are absolutly right the cutting line is across the holes. I now have a "DIY MFT" made with Peters Parf Guide System so I have just skipped a row of holes where the cussing line is 🤪

[@TheWoodgrafter]

+borstroem Hi, thank you for that. I think that would cause me a problem as I want to move the cutting station to multiple locations on the MFT’ And position the dog's closer to the edges of the board. Whilst still having that zero cut. Although I think the Parf rail dogs are quicker to re-position due to the fixing mechanism. I guess every solution has it trade-off. Talk soon. Andy

[@azimahmady2733]

I wish you would actually do some real cutting etc to show us. bit confusing

[@TheWoodgrafter]

+Azim Ahmady Hi Azim, thank you for taking the time to feedback. This video wasn’t really about using the MFT I have a few video’s that look at cutting on the MFT. This one was purely about the changes I have made to my table set up due to experience. It is aimed at those who have an MFT and may find value in my experience. Sorry if you found it confusing. Cheers Andy

[@jimgeelan5949]

Hi mr grafter First time watching and have subed Ill bet there’s not a lot left in your bank account after all that festool kit 😂😂😂

[@TheWoodgrafter]

Hi Jim, I saved up lots of pennies before I started just for these purchases then hit it all pretty quickly to build the workshop, so I could be up and running. But yes there is a Festool shaped hole in my account 😂💰 Thank for the sub, Talk soon. Andy