Double Your Tesla Charging Speed at Home!

[@TonyWilliams123]

Every house or business supplied with “split phase” or three phase 208 volt power is a candidate for QUICK 220 (that’s virtually all houses and business in North America built in the last half decade). Any outlet that has GFCI will not work with Quick 220. Those outlets are located outdoors, or at locations with water present, like bathrooms and kitchens. It’s REALLY EASY to identify those GFCI outlets, since they usually have a TEST and RESET button, and maybe even a small green or red light. The easiest way to identify two of the 120 volt outlets for QUICK 220 is by looking at the circuit breaker box feeding the home or business. Pick one 120 volt outlet powered by the left side of the box, and one 120 volt outlet powered by the right side. Those will be on opposite phases, and be able to provide 208 or 240 volts when combined together with QUICK 220.

[@robertweekley5926]

Tony, I have Wondered if TWO Quick 220 Units Could be used, If Properly Connected, to Opposing Distribution Box Breaker Side Circuits, and Their outlets could be paired, to bump up the Net Amps?

[@TonyWilliams123]

Robert, well, sure... except, I can think of many reasons why it might not work, or might be unsafe.

[@mikeferris8033]

Sensible but..... I am in Condo in Montreal, exterior parking with several plugs for winter block heater charging (heats the oil pan of the vehicle in winter). The plugs cannot be on the circuit, but how the heck do I tell, as a layman?????

[@TonyWilliams123]

Mike Ferris, perhaps a local electrician can help?

[@jordanhazen7761]

Most panels actually alternate successive rows between the hot legs, so that 220/240V circuits can be connected with a double-height breaker that makes contact with both L1 and L2 buses. So, looking down either column, from top to bottom the pattern will be L1,L2,L1,L2 etc. Three-phase goes L1,L2,L3,L1,L2,L3... A pure left/right split would require 240V breakers to be double-wide rather than double-height, which would make them difficult to mount and wire up (second hot from that circuit having to be fished around to the other side). I've actually never seen one like that. Certain panels may have opposite legs on the two side of any given row, though this also seems to be uncommon.

[@virgilwhetsel5289]

Ben, as an electrician I can assure you there is no magic. Wish you would not stand barefoot on concrete when messing with electrical devises. Also would advise people to use outlets in kitchens and garages as they are generally on 20 Amp 120 Volt branch circuits which are wired with #12 gauge wire and will be better able to handle the continuous load of vehicle charging. Better yet, install a range outlet NEMA 14-50 receptacle in the garage on #6 conductors and get around 30 miles of charge per hour!

[@TonyWilliams123]

Outlets on a 20 amp circuit would properly have a combination NEMA 5-15 and 5-20 outlet. One of the receptacle holes would look a bit like an X.

[@virgilwhetsel5289]

@@TonyWilliams123 actually only a circuit with a single outlet would require a 20 amp receptacle. Multiple receptacles such as a duplex only need to be rated at 75% of circuit rating. Therefore 15 amp duplex receptacles are commonly used on 20 amp branch circuit.

[@TonyWilliams123]

Virgil Whetsel, virtually nobody using QUICK 220 will know if a 15 amp receptacle like the one founds in millions of home and businesses in North America is on a 15 amp or a 20 amp circuit. My experience is most are on a 15 amp circuit.

[@TorIvanBoine]

Alternative title: "How to charge your electric car like in Europe" :)

[@salemazzam6502]

Exactly.

[@ma6netho]

not exactly, i got only 8 amp from my 230v, from 1 phase

[@TorIvanBoine]

@@ma6netho was meant more as a joke than anything :)

[@Nuclearnadalah]

@@ma6netho i have 16 Amps at 240 volt

[@markp8295]

15 Amp 230V here. Officially 240v but we totally changed to match the EU 230V cough cough..... Plus after voltage drop drawing 15 Amp through a MIG welder, it's more like 220v

[@sanjeevdhanda]

A shorter cable helps, a 10-gauge extension cord helps too. Remember watts = amps * volts.. looking at just the voltage is a bit of a misnomer. You got doble the wattage because both outlets still have 15 amps (12 with loss and the legal 20% buffer), you only double the speed. With a 240 outlet, you would receive 30-50 amps and that's why you get 2-3x watts from amps on top of the 2x you got for voltage. I wonder if they could build a system to preserve the amps from both sources to get 30amps

[@Fla.3]

Sanjeev Dhanda you could just have still 120V 24 A but it’s still 2.8 kW, same as 240 V 12 A

[@TonyWilliams123]

Just because an outlet is 208 up to 240 volts does not mean that it automatically has "30-50 amps" instantly available. 208-240 volt outlets are readily available from 15 amps up to 60 amps.

[@mrlithium69]

This is wrong. The regular 120v showed Charging at 12 out of 12 amps. The 240v system showed also 12 out of 12 amps. So its limited in the car to 12 amps max, no matter the voltage you chose. This also means its directly dependent on how many exact volts you put in, so if you were to have a system with precisely 240.00V it would charge slightly faster than his ~231V combined system. Same would go for 120.00V vs the ~113V that he showed on the scren.

[@dennisschlieckau8723]

mrlithium the UMC has can take a variety multi-Voltage/amp adapters. They are “Smart” adapters. Meaning there is a digital device within the the adapter that communicates with the UMC. This is what determines the amps available. Ben was using the Nema 5-15 adapter which limits amps to 12. I highly recommend a person purchase the Nema 5-20 UMC adapter which has a 16 Amp limit. My Model 3 charges at 6 mph. All of my outlets are on 20 amp breakers but the wall receptacles are Nema 5-15. I use a Nema 5-15 Male to 5-20 female adapter. I could have swapped the receptacle with nema 5-15/20 but just opted for the adapter instead. Theoretically, using the split circuit device above, I could get 12 mph with 240 @ 16 amps. I have really good line voltage 122V typically.

[@jordanhazen7761]

Amperage is limited by the thickness of the wires feeding those outlets from the panel, and by the breakers protecting those wires from overheating/fire risk. 120V circuits with supply wires thick enough for more than 20A (12 AWG) or more often just 15A (14 AWG) are very rare. It's recommended not to draw more than 80% of the limit for a near-constant load, which is why the car wants to limit you to 12A on a 15A circuit. You could use a transformer to convert 12A @ 240V to 24A @ 120V (minus a few % losses), but there'd be no point - that doesn't increase available power, but merely changes how it's delivered, and the car's charger, by accepting a wide voltage range effectively already does that conversion for you. A complex transformer setup would only help if you wanted to try combining 3 or more circuits together, not just 2, but this would bring new safety issues (risk of backfeeding power, etc.) that would need to be addressed, and would rarely be practical anyway.

Use the extension cords from the outlets to the Quick220, not from the Q220 to the Tesla adapter. Extension cords are designed to run 110V, not 220V.

[@arbivark]

is there a fire risk to doing it ben's way? my other concern is, what does this gadget cost?

[@matt_waddy]

@@arbivark $199 per the link in the description and that yellow adapter isn't pictured.

[@Roscopicotrane]

Keep in mind that the extension cord is only supplying one side of the 110. The extension cord only has a hundred and 110 volts flowing through it.

[@tomrobertson3236]

Power equals amps X volts Double volts you half the amps for same power . Wires don't care about volts Only amps You need to use 2 different circuits as in circuit breakers

[@Microfrost]

@@tomrobertson3236 the whole point of this device is to double the power. You double the volts and pull the same 12 amps. Also, extension cords *are* only rated for a particular voltage. It's probably at least 300V for most, but it would still be wise to use them on the input side rather than the output side.

[@dan203]

Tesla sells a NEMA 6-15 pigtail for the mobile charger that will plug directly into that thing. No need for that adapter. Also according to the chart on Tesla's site this thing would be a lot faster for a Model 3. They list just 5mph for an X, 7mph for an S and 11mph for a 3 using this plug style. That's almost 3x the standard outlet speed for the Model 3.

[@minyou62]

I would strongly recommend people buy the NEMA 6-15 adapter from Tesla rather than use the adapter Ben used. The adapter Ben used allows any 120V equipment to be plugged in and get 240V. That's fine if it is something like a Tesla that is fine with 240. OTOH, plug a lamp in and watch the bulb explode.

[@Kuth70]

This is exactly what I use to charge my Model 3 at home. Didn't want to spend $1500 upgrading the electric service since I'm moving within the year. It's still slow, but it beats a single plug. I can charge 30%-80% in 14 hours. I get 3kw which on the Long Range Model 3 RWD gets me about 10-11 mph charge.

[@ai4px]

In many new homes, electric code requires every garage and outdoor outlet to be GFCI and pulling power from two different plugs on two phases will trip the GFCI out. Another solution if it's at your house is to simply install a Nema 6-20 plug (assuming your circuit breaker is 20amp). Another thing you could do which I won't recommend is to designate a 120v outlet as 240v.... really don't do this, but if you do label it well and maybe put a red cover on it... it'll be a 120v outlet fed with 240v. But if you go to all this trouble, may as well do it right way.

[@paulgracey4697]

I too have a California home built in the late 1950s. It is a duplex apartment I own and live in one half. What my apartment does not have in most of the outlets is the grounded type of outlet. The kitchen and bathrooms were required to have them back then, but not rooms without water faucets. Outside or garage outlets needed the grounded outlets too. What one of my tenants did, without my permission was to install grounded outlets throughout, despite there being no way to connect to ground at the wall boxes. Probably a previous owner did that with your home. I am glad you showed us how this unit works with the three pin NEMA Tesla adapter. I worried that the Tesla might only accept Most interior outlets have a maximum of 15A circuit breakers, but the garage might allow for 20A this will have the two blades at right angles to each other along with the U shaped ground pin.. If you have two phases on 20A breakers, as I do for my garage, That can enable 18 miles per hour charging. I wired one of my garage double outlets to have both phases present, by cutting the link between outlets and wiring each separately. another of my tenants was a licensed electrician, and he pulled two phases to my garage for me long ago when I knew that someday I would get an EV. I have been a member of the EVAOSC club for several decades now.

[@TonyWilliams123]

Paul Gracey, QUICK 220 is UL safety certified for 15 amps. All the wiring is also rated for 15 amps. Finally, very few home wall outlets / receptacles are rated for more than 15 amps, as you noted. I don’t recommend using QUICK 220 for more than 15 amps, even if you have the physical 20 amp / 120 volt outlets available.

[@BruceMallett]

For emergencies I carry a 220v 6 gauge ext. cord and a small number of adapters. Many houses have 220 dryer and/or electric range outlets. With that I can use the 220 mobile charge adapter, which is even faster for charging.

[@daviddrake7003]

Bruce Mallett I think I get what you are saying. Now for my Bolt EV the portable charger 120 volt plug also takes 240 volt on the same plug. One blade 120volt to ground and the other blade 120 volt to ground. All you do is get a dryer or range plug adapter to the normal 120 volt plug on the charger. I make the adapters for the Bolt. They may work for the Tesla.

[@UtahValleyEV]

Despite the title saying to double speed at home, this would be better suited for traveling, or if you are renting. This device costs $215 + good extension cords + tax you're already looking at $350-$400. I got a 240v 50 amp NEMA 14-50 installed for $500 and it charges more than 3x faster than this, and doesn't spread throughout the house. Decent temporary solution, but if you own your home, pay the extra and get much faster charging with less mess.

[@grendal9800]

I bought one. I've been using it for two months at my place of work. It works perfectly, and for me, it has eliminated my need for charging at home except in rare moments. So the unit will pay for itself in another couple months and thereafter will be saving me money daily. So thanks!

[@lenmooring9853]

Please pardon my ignorance here, but not being an electrical guy what I am suggesting could be total crap. But, could sections of the car’s batteries be isolated from each other and enable, for example, 4 super chargers to operate at once?

[@dougfrith5001]

So, did you fix the outlet with the fault?

[@MiltonAlvis]

One does not need the expensive box. Only an extension cord with plugs adapted to route the power line (hot, away from ground) of each side of the 110 VAC outlets to opposite sides of a 220 VAC outlet. The key issue is that the power conductors are of sufficient gauge (16 Ga adequate if not very long; 14 Ga or 12 Ga ever better for long connection runs) to handle the amperage being carried without too much resistance (cord and plugs get warm to hot over time when in use).

[@domenicdefrancesco]

There is a significant safety issue with your idea. Yes, if you connect the two "hots" of the two 120V plugs to the two hots of the 240V plug, you will get 240V and it will work. But if you unplug one of the 120V plugs and touch the "hot" blade, you will get a shock. Current will flow from one hot, thru the load and to the exposed blade of the other input. I hope the device that Ben is promoting has a sensing circuit that looks for 240V across the two inputs before engaging a relay that connects the output to the input leads. Otherwise this is a dangerous device!

[@TonyWilliams123]

This is EXTREMELY unsafe, as the power from the first 120 volt outlet would be present on the OTHER 120 volt plug. Again, not smart of safe. The Quick 220 is safety certified by UL.

[@jtegland]

I think you should try and keep your extension cords between the wall outlets and the box and not between the box and the car.

[@captainswjr]

The higher the voltage, the easier it is to transmit power. That's why 12v battery cables are huge and why long distance power lines operate at thousands of volts. The 240 cord is twice the voltage, but the same amps as the 120 cords. There's some slight risk in that the extension cord is designed for 120 though. You'd want to use a cord that is heavy duty and in good shape either way.

[@JxH]

@@captainswjr The issue is that the cord's socket is standard for 120VAC, but now offering 240VAC, because of that idiotic adapter. Illegal and potentially deadly. John's point is nothing to do with voltage drop, but about 'dropping' family members by electrocution.

[@BarryObaminable]

Its nothing wierd. Its how 220 works on your house. It splits the 120. The only issue is that usually a 220v dryer outlet is usually 20 or 30 amp. so you get double the volts AND more amps. but.. its better than 110v.

[@joetripp123]

Before everyone comments saying you get 5 or 6 miles per hour charge off of your 110v remember that Ben is charging a Model X. A Model S probably would see 4-5 mph and Model 3 would get 5-6 mph. So - with this device whatever you get NOW you would double that (unless you are in EU) as it converts the two NEMA 5-15 outlets into a NEMA 6-15. I'm sure the device also has safeguards internally too. My hangup is with the price - $200. With such a great Supercharging network here in the US I could supercharge quite a bit for $200 (2,000+ miles worth). I would have to travel charge a lot before this device would pay for itself.

[@BenSullinsOfficial]

I think it makes sense for renters and when traveling to a place without infrastructure (like rural Texas)

[@737smartin]

Too late...it's BY FAR the talk of the chat board. 🙄🙄

[@dnovom]

I guess its better to look at it as anxiety reduction insurance and not as a ROI exercise. That is what I felt Ben was trying to say from the start. Its good to see options. It would also be better if Tesla took more initiative in this area with accessories suited for all of those special, anxiety producing, circumstances…

[@sakru100]

In Europe 220 (or 230) volts is the basic voltage in every plug. So okay speed as standard everywhere!

[@markfitzpatrick6692]

Sakru100 too bad we don’t have that in USA

[@maximemineault8117]

Ronald Leckfor 16 amps max, so maybe 12-13 continuous?

[@toddr.lockwood843]

I would use CAUTION with the extension cords used to reach the two 115V outlets. 12A is a heavy load for a household extension cord and could lead to a fire. I would recommend using a pair of 12 gauge extension cords, preferably no longer than 25 feet.

[@bburton333]

At 05:38, the black outlet in Ben's garage is labeled "20 A." Assuming that receptacle is on a 20 amp circuit breaker and has the proper gauge of wire, that receptacle can be replaced with the NEMA 5-20R type that can accept a 20 amp plug such as the NEMA 5-20 adapter available from the Tesla store which would then support pulling 16 amps instead of only 12 amps.

[@thestudiouswolf]

I just got a Model 3 and plugged it in for the first time today. I used a normal 120 Volt AC circuit with the charging cable that came with the car. I set the charging level at 12 Amps just like you did, and I got a reading of 6 miles added per hour without any doubling box.

[@echoplexSE]

Different car, with this box you’d double it and get 12 miles of range every hour.

[@daviddrake7003]

That outlet not wired correctly is dangerous! It could be hot to ground. If you have some thing metal grounded internally and you touch ground you could be electrocuted! You have to turn off the power and reverse the wires on the back of the outlet and then power back and test with tester. You should test every outlet in your house. If you have one, you probably have another.

[@jordanhazen7761]

With common outlet testers, the center light coming on, but not the rightmost one indicates an open ground. Possibly an old ungrounded circuit where someone swapped in a 3-prong outlet without ever connecting its ground. This is actually allowed by code *if* you have a GFCI (breaker or outlet) upstream to protect the ungrounded outlet, but car chargers won't like it, nor will certain electronics.

[@jonathangourlie9098]

Great video. I think you missed one important point though. You want to make sure you do not plug into an outlet that is GFCI protected. This is an outlet that is protected from ground fault, or current running through ground rather than back through the common wire. You can tell them by the two buttons (Test, and Reset) on the outlet, although sometimes they appear to be normal outlets and the GFCI protection is either on another outlet "upstream" or on the breaker itself. You can test this by pressing the little red button on your outlet tester (if it has one) and that will test if you have GFCI protection. Trying this on a GFCI breaker or outlet will likely cause a ground fault. (Note: Typically all garage outlets must be GFCI) Edit: I would love to see you test this. I'm quite certain this would trip a GFCI based on my knowledge of them, but I would love to see what happens when you try it.

[@jonathangourlie9098]

@@bendenton3017 It almost certainly would. From my understanding of GFCI it should trip whenever there is a difference in the current flow between the hot and neutral wires. Since this 240v system would have current flow only through the two 120v poles there would be no current flow through the neutral, causing a ground fault.

[@Fla.3]

Jonathan Gourlie so you don’t have a GFCI for the whole house? Here in Europe (or at least in Italy) we have what’s called Salvavita - “Life Saver” which protects the whole electric system from ground faults

[@jonathangourlie9098]

@@Fla.3 Nope. In the US GFCI is only required in Bathrooms, in kichens (within 6 feet of the sink), and in outlets that are located outside or in the garage. No other outlets are required to be GFCI.

[@andywright3107]

That sounds like an excellent reason to stay well clear of this kind of thing. All those connectors and extensions running around, possibly outdoors in the wet, sounds like a disaster in the making. Here in the UK our domestic EV charger points by law must have their own earthing rod and dedicated earth leakage breaker. I certainly wouldn't want to be handling a live charging connector on a circuit without RCD/GFCI protection.

[@TonyWilliams123]

Yes, the Tesla Mobile Connector "UMC" is fully protected from GFCI, and would not require a GCFI outlet. Actually, the GCFI outlets can cause an error with the UMC, as you noted.

[@thedj67]

In EU 230V 16A (~3.5kW) outlets are the norm, and usually you also have a 230V 32A (>7kW) outlet for cooking. Many EV users simply add another one for their car. With that kind of outlet you can expect to completely recharge a Model 3 in under 8 hours.

[@bob15479]

thedj67 we have more Powerful outlets in USA too, for clothing dryers. We call them 220

[@jim0077]

In Canada and the US, I believe the kitchen countertop outlets are each supposed to be their own 120V 15A circuits to allow for example, a toaster and a kettle to both be plugged into the same duplex outlet. This means that they are on separate phases. Therefore afaik... YOU CAN PLUG BOTH CORDS INTO THE SAME KITCHEN COUNTERTOP DUPLEX OUTLET.

[@taylorlightfoot]

No, Kitchens are typically GFCI protected outlets and the GFCI outlets will trip if this combiner is used.

[@bburton333]

The Quick 220 may be okay to use in certain limited situations when it's not possible to have a proper 220-volt outlet wired. However, as others have stated, this device could be dangerous if extension cords of an improper gauge or rating are used. Note that the Quick 220 does not work with GFCI outlets. Also, for all newer Teslas that come with the new style Mobile Connector which is all Model 3's and Models S and X since January 2018, you should purchase the Tesla NEMA 6-15 Mobile Connector Adapter from the Tesla store to plug into the Quick 220 (assumes 15-amp version) instead of the yellow pigtail plug shown in this video.

[@blessidunion]

Since you’re going into the house how about a longer 220 extension cord that hooks straight into your charger plug? Then plug it into either the range plug in the kitchen or the dryer plug in the laundry room depending on the plug you have. RV suppliers have these cords available

[@puntabachata]

Shouldn't you have a heavier gauge extension cord to the Tesla charger?

[@mowcowbell]

Would be great for renters who can't get a 240v outlet installed outside or in their garage. Would mean a lot of extra extension cords to pack in the frunk for a road trip, though.

[@freundron]

Ben: an important point to make is for optimal garage charging it always shud be done on a dedicated outlet, meaning no other loads on the line, for maximum chargi g speed. No chest freezers, no lights, garage door openers etc.

[@TonyWilliams123]

Ron Freund, wise choices indeed.

[@Pete_YT]

Thanks for the review. The other trick is to use 20amp connector with a 15amp convertor. Reality is it will charge at 16amp instead of 12amp which most wiring rated at 15amp is good for - gives a nice little boost

[@TonyWilliams123]

This exceeds several limits and is NOT recommended.

[@camjo_io]

Have fun melting your wiring.

[@drummerdonniedotcom]

It's disappointing that such a big, fancy box doesn't test the 15AMP outlets for ground faults, reverse neutral/hot (common issue), etc. Essentially, one could simply build a cable loom without the fancy box and get the same results, assuming one understands the phase issues and uses a tester on each outlet as you clearly do and did. Good video.

[@TonyWilliams123]

Donnie Frank, without a box, where would you put the required relays for safety (and required for UL certification)?

[@newtonfb]

I already get 5-6mph on 110. You also get more when you plug it into a 20a outlet instead of 15a....things I would have thought Ben would already know

[@VonZippySays]

Did you see the outlet in the garage.. it has 20 written in marker... Hint hint.

[@donbrloks3959]

Your kidding right?

[@taylorlightfoot]

If you are going to use the product, you should know the following: - Most modern homes have extensive use of GFCI in outdoor, garage, kitchen, bathroom, and laundry room locations. This combiner will NOT work if plugged into a GFCI protected outlet. - This adaptor is for use in split phase 120/240V electrical systems or 120/208 electrical systems. All the foreigners commenting cannot use something like this. - You should use two extension cords to power the adaptor and then you should use the proper 6-15 adaptor for your Tesla Mobile Connector charge cable. You should not use an adaptor to adapt the 6-15 outlet to a standard 5-15 outlet because this allows you to plug any 120V device into the 240V connection, which is a hazard and will most likely fry anything not designed to work at 240V. - Your extension cords should be 12 Gauge wire. When wire runs are long, the voltage drops and if the voltage drops, the amps go up. Use 12 Gauge extension cords to ensure your cables are not getting hot and becoming a fire hazard. - Only use oultets that have tight connections. Loose outlets/connections create high resistance connections and there will be excessive heat buildup, which can melt the outlet or plug and can cause a fire. - Car charging is a continuous duty electrical application. You are not to exceed 80% of the circuits available amps. This is why 15 amp adaptors only charge at 12A, 20 at 16, 30 at 24, 50 at 40, 60 at 48, etc. - You should take care to ONLY plug this adaptor in when the car charger is unplugged from the 6-15 outlet. If you leave it plugged in and are in the process of plugging in the two inputs, there exists a situation where if you have one input plugged in, the other input will have a live prong that can electrocute you if you touch it. Plug your inputs in only when there is nothing plugged into the outlet. - Try to plug this adaptor into circuits that are not being utilized by other devices in the home. Car charging is a continuous duty application and if other things in the home are drawing from the same circuit as this adaptor, you can easily exceed the 80% limit you're supposed to follow. Drawing 15 amps continuously from a 15 amp breaker will not cause the breaker to trip, but the wires will start to become very hot. It's an unsafe situation. - I honestly do not know why anyone would make and sell this adaptor. It's just a lawsuit waiting to happen for the company. Not to mention that this adaptor would NEVER be approved by any testing agency or electrical code. It's simply not to code and can be used in numerous unsafe ways.

[@BassPlayerUnderGrace]

That outlet on the the Quick220 is a NEMA 6-15 and, at least if you have the gen 2 charger, Tesla still sells it. So you don't need to additional adapter but either one will work the same.

[@keithminton6120]

Great Video, thanks. What is the improvement on your 3 I get about 4.5mph charge from a normal 110v on my 3 with just the Tesla connector. Is it also double on the 3 if so that would be great to get 9-10pmh. Thanks

[@Fla.3]

Yes because the 3 is more efficient

[@TonyWilliams123]

It would double whatever speed you get, because the voltage would double.

[@the00first]

if you plug in the extender to the wall plug, it is maybe more safe. i think that output power is double the input power.

[@obsoleteprofessor2034]

If wired right, most of the kitchens in newer homes will be fed by at least 2 circuits that are on opposite phase. I would run a 12/3 romex from the meter or subpanel, put the 2 hots on a 2 pole breaker and then run the feed to one side of the sink. In that box I would split the feeder and take the remaining hot to the other side of the kitchen. Where you might also find another hot is to the plug under the sink for the garbage disposal. Sometimes the house has a dedicated circuit for the refrigerator.

[@JuliaCaban]

I charge my Model 3 at home and I get at least 5 miles per hour with a regular outlet in a pretty old building (electrical work is terrible) so I guess I should consider myself lucky ;) Do you think I could get 10 miles per hour with this gadget?

[@GregHassler]

Yes you would, assuming you could find 2 properly wired, compatible outlets.

[@BenSullinsOfficial]

Probably more as there is a bit over head you save with this device also

[@gman3725]

Very cool! I see this coming in handy when traveling. Too bad Tesla doesn’t make something like this.

[@simoc24]

G Man Tesla rather focus more on Superchargers, that is like local ads for selling Tesla :)

[@jonathangourlie9098]

@@davidbeppler3032 It would be as simple as screwing an outlet into a box, cutting two extension cords and running the hot wire from each cord to each side of the outlet (one to the 'hot' side and the other to the common) and plug the two extension cords into two outlets on different phases. BOOM 240 v power. Unfortunatly, there is also the risk of burning your whole house down... so I'll just go ahead and recommend nobody tries that. Also, I'm pretty sure Tesla wants all of their products to be UL certified which I highly doubt UL would ever certify something like this.

[@brantwedel]

They do ... For the Tesla Semi 😆, it plugs into multiple superchargers

[@gasdive]

I don't understand why they only have one inlet on the Tesla. You should be able to plug in at least 3. It can cope with three phase, so it's almost certain that there are at least 3 onboard chargers. You should be able to plug into multiple j plugs, and multiple 110 outlets. Hell my Zero motorcycle can use up to 5 circuits and charge at 5.3 kW just with stock parts plugged into normal wall outlets.

[@daveturner6612]

They don't sell it because you can make one in an hour for $20

[@prostheticaim8030]

In Australia our outlets are 240v single phase 10-15 Amps as standard.

[@gasdive]

Still really slow. If the Tesla was designed correctly it could use three 15 amp outlets at once. Would be great in a caravan park for example. I can, and do use three to charge my motorcycle and get 6.3 kW charging, while a Tesla is limited to 3.6 in the same caravan park.

[@typhoys]

Same here in India

[@prostheticaim8030]

The Tesla can as it is designed correctly... its our home power grids that will heat up and cause a fire hence why there is a 10 amp Plug in cable, a 60amp Wall charger then super chargers are through the roof but you need it installed correctly so your house doesn’t burn down as every cable can withstand a certain amount of current before they burst into flames

[@gasdive]

@@prostheticaim8030 it's perfectly safe to pull 10 amps each from three circuits in Australia. You're not going to burn anything down.

[@prostheticaim8030]

Depends on the house, the wiring and the rating of the mains cable, if your house has the main power line a single phase 230v split into 3 10a circuit breakers they are not designed to run at maximum current for extended times and will generate heat and potentially cause a fail hence why for a Teslas wall charger a seperate line needs to be run into the premises rated for the high level of current flow also breaker rated for it

[@huskydogg7536]

Off topic question: At what point in the EV ramp up will gas stations start including EV chargers? They often have extra parking room, seems it would be a way to avoid the inevitable drop off of ICE business.

[@jjsjohnson1]

We’re starting to see exactly that happen now. As the EV driver base continues to grow, the market will drive more and more paid charger installations. They won’t be limited to the gas stations/convenience stores model though. You’ll see them more and more at retail and restaurant locations. Arguably it makes even MORE sense to have them in retail/restaurant locations. It’s happening and it’ exciting.

[@terrysullivan1992]

I imagine you have a 220 outlet in your garage for the Tesla. What amps and how many miles / hr. do you get from that ?

[@bartlybaert9592]

13A.........12 km / h .

[@troygoynes74]

terry Sullivan I installed a 220 in my garage. I get about 33 mph and I’m very satisfied with that when the Tesla wall charger maxes out at about 40 mph

[@jordanamoth6724]

Tesla also makes an adapter to plug into the charger with the different plug so that you could eliminate one adapter.. Plus you don't really want 220v on a regular plug what happens if someone plugs something else into it

[@TonyWilliams123]

The NEMA 6-15 adaptor is only available with the GEN2 UMC. The GEN1 version that Ben Sullins has is the GEN1.

[@jordanamoth6724]

@@TonyWilliams123 ah OK... Well if you use it with the gen 2 you can do that

[@jaredbennetts8056]

240 in Australia:) Wonder if these can go to higher volts.... 3 of these in a triangle in Australia 720 volts, hmmmm above my pay grade for sure! Top vid Ben!

[@michaczajka3854]

Of course we can do even 1000+ volts but have to incerease frequency and the cord could be even thinner, sick i know but thats how it works😄

[@josipmatic4732]

Also in Europe :)

[@Fla.3]

Ben Denton yes for sure the charger is max 240v

[@AdamIverson]

I don't know about Europe or Australia, but I know that in United States, every residential have up to 240v line and often split into two 120v. What this quick220 does is to recombine two 120v back to 240v, so unfortunately, it's impossible to get higher than 240v unless it's getting 3 phase grid, usually found in industrial area like a warehouse.

[@TonyWilliams123]

@@AdamIverson, it's actually the other way around. The home or business is supplied with 120 volts, and if a simple 120 volt outlet is used, then the "other" line is a "neutral". If a 240 volt outlet is used, two 120 volt lines are combined at 180 degrees out-of-phase. If the business has 208 three phase power, then three 120 volt lines are combined at 120 degrees out-of-phase. That's different than UK / Europe, which uses 230 volts.

[@marksmyth9736]

Quickest way to make sure you have 220v from 2 x 110 outlets is to make sure one outlet in on an even numbered breaker and the other is on an Uneven numbered breaker . OR if you have access to your kitchen Split - use Top and Bottom of same outlet .

[@radiorexandy]

Hey, guy! You don't pull plugs up by the cord; you grasp the PLUG. Otherwise, you run the risk of pulling the wires out of the plug and having them short in the process. This would not be a good thing. It could be a very shocking experience!

[@jimadams2113]

Two different circuits better terminology than 2 different phases. Great video, thanks Ben.

[@SoylentSax]

Jim Adams that would be wrong though. 2 different circuits can be on the same phase and will only give you 120 volts.

[@markharvey7844]

Two different circuits is not enough - you need the circuits to be on different legs of the panel, as well. Generally, its more precise to call the "phases" as they're referred to in this video as "legs." The two 120 V circuits used in this video is still considered single phase.

[@thebluesclues2012]

@@bendenton3017 I think you'rewrong. They are not different phases on the different circuits, they're on the same incomer, no second phases, just different circuits. Unless USA uses two separate phases into into a houses main distribution. I'd check but not at my PC.

[@Faddnn]

This video should be named "How to not charge your Tesla at home". Stuff like this should only be used in emergency cases. Get a charger installed or an outlet that has a higher rating than normal outlets (NEMA or whatever you call it in the US or CEE in Europe), if you pick the last choice, make sure you protect your house, car and installation with a GFCI/RCD that is rated for charging electric vehicles.

[@jordanhazen7761]

A GFCI/RCD will actually prevent this hack method from working, because the adapter box pulls current from the hot/live wire on one circuit and returns it to hot/live on the other, without using the neutral lines at all. GFCI/RCD will perceive this as a ground fault and disconnect both circuits. The "quick 220" adapter *should* have AC-coil relays inside to shut off power in the event either supply cords gets unplugged. Otherwise you'd end up with a loose male plug with live 120V on its prongs, still supplied from the other circuit.

[@Faddnn]

@@jordanhazen7761 You should not use this box in the first place. Charging from a normal outlet should only be for emergency charging. As I said, install equipment that can take the power load over a longer time and make sure you protect your house and car with the right type of GFCI/RCD.

[@jordanhazen7761]

@@Faddnn Yes, it's definitely inferior in both performance and safety to a proper charging station, but as far as I can see no one is proposing this as a replacement for one, but only as a contingency method. The video, after all opens with "have you ever been on a road trip, and .. end up somewhere that doesn't have a charger?"

[@Faddnn]

@@jordanhazen7761 Look at what he calls the video and he doesn't really go into the safety concerns with such setup either in his video.

[@miss2doggies]

pretty cool. The plug that goes into that box is a 6-15 and Tesla sells an adapter for the new UMC in that size for $35. Tesla says the Max rate using that plug is 11mph for the M3, 7 for the MS and 5 for the MX.

[@jordanhazen7761]

Using that Tesla NEMA6 adapter would make for a more foolproof setup, avoiding any risk of someone accidentally frying a 240V-intolerant device by plugging it into the NEMA5 dogbone adapter.

[@TheRh32]

They are sold out at this link. Do you expect there to be more in stock or is there somewhere else I can purchase?

[@dangerL7e]

You can actually build your own box that will double the speed, but ONLY IF you have access to 2 different phases. I had bought a NEMA 14-30 adapter that will pull up to 24 amps from a 240V circuit. Too bad my garage is fed from only 1 circuit (lights receptacles, fan - everything). So instead - I verified my breaker is 20A and replaced my receptacle to 5-20 from 5-15. I got only 30% increase in charging speed, but it's so much worth it.

[@peterequations]

How much more electricity would you be paying? I really would like to know. Thanks!

[@niekbergboer]

Split phase really seems to mean that your house is connected on 2 phases at 110/120V, 180 degrees apart. In Europe, houses are typically connected at 3 phases at 230/240V, 120 degrees apart. The European Type2 connector (which is on all European Teslas as well) is also 3-phase. The normal Tesla wall box can be connected to three-phase 16A, which gets you ~11 kW. The mobile charger that comes with the European Model 3 only has one phase connected, which then limits you to a third of that on a proper 16A-continuous connection. Is three-phase a thing in the US?

[@GregSr]

My son just bought a Model 3. On a 120 volt plug his was charging at 3 to 4 miles per hour. He bought the 240 volt kit and we wired it into his circuit breaker panel. Now his Tesla is charging at about 8 times faster than the 120 volt setup. Doubling the voltage does a lot more than double the charging rate.

[@KevinCoop1]

As an electrical design engineer, you scared the crap out of me. Never ever touch or use anything electrical barefoot on concrete! Concrete is a grounded surface and you can get a shock very easily. I learned this when 16 years old. I touched the pickup on an electric guitar and got a tingle. Lucky low voltage. Be safe, the life you save may be your own.

[@taoh780]

With the recent prices for super charging during peak hours, it's starting to feel more economical to destination charge when traveling. Will be looking into one of these to get 220V into my UMC

[@davidschorow6605]

I'm a little confused. Do the two 110 plugs need to be on different phases or just on different circuits? A house has many circuits, but only two phases. Finding two different plugs on different circuits should be relatively easy, but finding two different plugs on different phases would be quite difficult. The GFI tester won't tell you which phase the outlet is. That your kitchen and your garage plugs were on different circuits is not at all surprising, but having them on different phases seems like pure luck. Let me know if I'm missing something.

[@SoylentSax]

David Schorow they have to be on 2 different phases.

[@TonyWilliams123]

The orange light on QUICK 220 will light up when you find 208-240 volts. It’s easy.

[@adolfodef]

10:10 A practical rule of thumb is to connect one of the two lines to where the AC units is normally plug (obviously, you can not use the AC & charge the car at the same time); since it SHOULD be on an independent phase by default [if it was installed correctly].

[@TonyWilliams123]

There are a LOT of rules and guidelines out there for wiring. Every city has their own little nuances. Not every air conditioner is even on 120 volts, or on 240 volts.

[@musliminkarben]

So what happen when you four the outlet? Double the thing

[@stoweman34]

Ideally you’d be on two separate 20amp circuits in the US. Usually a washer is a dedicated 20amp and a kitchen circuit is 20amp.

[@sorianosn]

Isn’t that a Gen 1 charger, if that’s the case isn’t it rated at 110V? How is working and not tripped running higher voltage?

[@DSRTSLA]

It would be cool if you would get at least 21-23 mi/he just like with the 14-50. This is just doubling which it's still cool but you're still feeding it approx. 240 volts right?

[@janmessek1826]

Actually adjacent breakers connect to opposite phases and if you want to get into the breaker panel they should be labeled where they are in the house but flipping them off one at a time with a lamp or radio plugged into the desired outlet can find which breaker goes to what outlets and lights. Checking the breaker will also tell you if it is a 15 or possibly 20 amp circuit.

[@bburton333]

An alternative that's much less expensive but only increases charging speed up to 33% over a 120-volt, 15 amp outlet is if a 120-volt 20 amp outlet is available (has T-shaped slot on one side and is tied to a 20 amp circuit breaker), then purchase the Tesla NEMA 5-20 adapter from the Tesla store for either the Mobile Connector or UMC. Then it may be possible to pull up to 16 amps instead of only 12 amps which can definitely make a difference.

[@TonyWilliams123]

William Burton, this is specifically NOT recommended since this exceeds the 15 amp approved limit, and significantly exceeds the National Electric Code (NEC) guidelines for only using 80% of the circuit capacity, which is 12 amps.

[@satbeer123]

Can you quadruple your charging if you bring in 220V from your neighbor or some other phase and get it to 440V?

[@MichaelHarrisPhotography]

Ben, please wear rubber soled shoes when you're fooling around with electricity. Any accidental touch (bad wiring, shorted screw, chafed cord, etc.) will go through your body (heart) and out your feet, especially on concrete. Also, Tesla sells adapters that fit dryer outlets (230v 50A) that plug into their charger great if you're going to someones house. Thanks for another informative video.

[@daviddrake7003]

Michael Harris That answers my question. The Tesla charger ( made by Clipper Creek?) is both 120 volt and 240 volt, like my GM charger for the Bolt EV. The adapter I make will work with Tesla thanks for the info.

[@LooseGravel14]

Houses are in US are not normally built with 3 phase power. I think he’s trying to say it has to be plugged into two separate circuits, not phases.

[@KevinLauscher]

yes lol i was like wtf is he talking about split phase

[@everettellenberger9103]

Could you repeat your test where you used 110v to charge your Tesla full time but instead of 110v use the 220v system you showed here?

[@davidbeaulieu4815]

Do they make this for a chevy bolt please? Or will it work for a chevy bolt i should say.

[@cabbagem6242]

But what about other countries such as Australia, will it still work? Do you even need it in Australia?

[@vacommish]

I get 5 mi p/hr with model 3 plug charging. Would I get 10 mies p/hr charging rate than? Does it vary based on the vehicle?

[@eldon9193]

You can also use the 240V from the dryer outlet

[@yolo_burrito]

eldon9193 not if your dryer is gas.

[@colinfarrow9971]

110volt households in the US are so old-fashioned, here in the UK we have 400 volt + three phase mains, and 240volt households. Thats the way to go America!!

[@filip3148]

This is why I love Europe. Long live 240V

[@Raleighthrbub123]

I think we have far too many older buildings to use 240.

[@SuperVstech]

Every single home in USA has 240V if it has utility power... Ovens and dryers and water heaters... if electric, are 240V

[@autofocus3579]

@@SuperVstech Utility voltage is 380v

[@SuperVstech]

@@autofocus3579 not in homes... Residential voltage is 120/240 or 120/208 in some apartment buildings. Commercial can be 380/277 480,560, or KV range...

[@chuckhoag4665]

What if you put it on two separate 30 Amp breaker circuits. If your hook-ups (cords) could take it, can you up the amps used for recharging on the Tesla menu to say 20 Amps and thus get more miles/hr of charge?

[@JohnWoodell]

The yellow tester is also provided to verify that the circuit is not CFI protected, by pressing the red button. The Quick 220 also comes in a 20 amp version with 6-20 receptacle; Tesla provides a 6-20 pigtail, and the Tesla will be able to pull 16 amps for about 3x the charge speed of the standard household plug.

[@TonyWilliams123]

To use a 20 amp unit would require 20 amp outlets in the wall, and that’s not very common. The 15 amp version works at 98% of all 120 volt outlets.

[@JohnWoodell]

@@TonyWilliams123 in every house I've lived in, light circuits are 15 amp and receptacle circuits are 20 amp. You can always choose to lower the amps (in the Tesla) but it will never allow you to Gove above 12 when you use the 5-15 pigtail.

[@MikeM-ld6dq]

I dont see how this can be an approved electrical component just by this video. The adapter cord leaves it open to miss use and potential safety issues. Is this UL rated or any other type of underwriter?

[@autofocus3579]

Here in EU we get 230 from one phase, so we can charge doubel the speed of US house owners? How many amps you get from one phase?

[@maxpelletier2237]

I think some recent Kitchen plug standards brings the 2 different phases to the same outlet so you can run 2x 15 amps kitchen appliances on the same outlet. Thus allowing this device to be plugged in the same outlet.

[@maxpelletier2237]

Ben Denton I’m no electrician. Still, an electrician showed me in my panel how my kitchen was wired, and it wasn’t wired like the other regular outlets. He explained something about a new standard. What I inderstood was that I was able to run two toaster from the same outlet(one in each plug) Thus allowing 120V and 15 amps in each. That’s what I meant.

[@harrycrawford8517]

In the US you can get a ‘drier’ outlet installed at a rating of 240 volts and 16 amps. That seems the best (and safest) way to up your charge rate for your EV. This solution all looks a bit ‘Heath Robinson’ as we say in the UK. Could easily result in an electrical fire if your wiring is not tip-top. Best have an electrician fit a proper 240 drier outlet.

[@bullhorn143]

Dryers here in the US usually require 30 amps

[@volkerblume238]

I have build it myself and I get 7,2 kw (Europe) from 2 plugs which is perfect to charge a 100D. Glad to see that someone made a product out of it. Let the device use the washing machine and dryer outlet, which are perfect, as they are on different phases.

[@prostovanka]

Didn't notice you mention climate control. When you plugged in the car both times, was the climate control turned off? Our Model 3 LR RWD drops the charge rate by roughly 6 mph when climate is on.

[@Rsmitty1974]

Can you use a single solar charger?

[@samg5543]

Try this with the newer mobile connector that comes with Model 3. It may detect high voltage and not let it charge. It knows the adapter that you add to the mobile connector and limits the amperage based on the adaper. It may also be able to detect that the voltage is well over 110 and not work.

[@rachelbrinkley3240]

If you have an electric dryer or electric range those are 220v power and at much higher current levels too. You could use them to charge up a tesla much faster!

[@ecospider5]

A 1950’s circuit breaker panel and wiring is not designed to carry 12A for 24 hours straight. To reduce the chance of insulation failure and a fire you should reduce the amperage to 8A. Really this is true about any house built before 1980.

[@nathanc.4862]

I get 4 mi/hr on 110v in my condo garage. Considering getting one of these to up that to 7 or 8 mi/hr. Is there an easy way to determine if the outlets in the condo garage are on a single breaker/circuit? Dont want to buy it and then find out it wont work for me.

[@AzureFire1111]

An even better option is to go to Quick 220's website and get the 20 amp unit with the Locking type outlet and use it with a 16 amp EVSE such as the one sold by Quick Charge Power or an adjustable amperage EVSE. I use just such a setup at my apartment. We have 20 amp engine block heater outlets outside. With the 20 amp Quick 220 I can charge my Volt in 4 hours.

[@gee-rockgee-rock4468]

Do they have three or more plugs for multiple outlet not just two

[@herrporschex]

Would you get 8 miles per hour in the model 3?

[@frapeyou]

any change they could make one for the good chargin one? like the one you plug into a washer/dryer plug, could you double that? like I think 1 overnight it gets 30/50 miles of range so could it double it?

[@BenSullinsOfficial]

Possible

[@augiearvizo]

When staying an Airbnb with washer/dryer in the garage can one just disconnect the dryer and plug charging cable into that with proper adapter?

[@JohnS416]

That’s how I charge at home.

[@benjaminherrmann7671]

What will happen if while charging one of the breakers trips. Lets say your charging your car over night and decide to cook something in the microwave and one of the breakers trips, now your only getting one of the two phases. Will this damage your car? Is there something inside that would stop this?

[@BenSullinsOfficial]

This device is pretty tempermental, my guess is it would trip also and stop charging

[@RedRyan]

I've used the carpet cleaner that has an internal one of these to run the hot water heater for the steam

[@kerrygrante]

Only one thing wrong with your experiment, after you combined the two phases to get 220v you shouldn't have used a 120v extension at the end where the Tesla is charging. You have to use a 15A 220v extension. Still i think this is very unsafe and not a product you should recommend to Tesla owners. Most customers don't know about rating for extension cords. This is a fire hazard.

[@MikeinCC]

You can't push that '220v" through the 110 rated extension cord. Also if your wall outlets are on the same circuit, that won't help either.

[@shelleyhuskey1870]

Love this video! We are getting our first Tesla and don’t have our wall connector installed yet.

[@BeauJohnson247]

I wonder if it can do the same in Australia, we have 240v at every point but most plus’s are 10amp, the car draws 8 amps... could it double the Amps to say 16-20 amps and still 240volts?

[@prjndigo]

I'm worried about your house's wiring if your load voltage is 108 at 12A. The reason the Tesla charges at 12A is to be compliant with *any* outlet just like sweepers and it most certainly shouldn't be drawing the voltage down due to a 12A draw. You should definitely check your breaker box.