Bespoke Measurements With John Lobb | Kirby Allison

In this full interview, Kirby Allison has the pleasure of sitting down with Jonathan Lobb, of John Lobb, to go through their traditional measurement taking process. John Lobb is famous for taking their shoes straight to finish after the measurements are taken and the last is constructed. For that reason, it is vital that the measurements taken are the most precise they can be. That is why their methods haven't changed in almost 200 years. Parts of this scene were included in our full length documentary on John Lobb, which can be seen by following the links below:
John Lobb Video Collection:
Inside John Lobb • Inside The Original Jo...
Behind The Scenes: • Behind The Scenes | In...
Lobb Bottom Making: • Lobb Bottom Making Wit...
Also see our entire John Lobb playlist of videos here:
• John Lobb London
Whilst completing our long-awaited piece on John Lobb, it was apparent that some of the footage filmed would need to be trimmed in order to keep the final run-time to a sensible length. However, we were also aware that the conversations with these experts in the craft were too good to not ever see the light of day. So sit back and enjoy the full interview with Jonathan Lobb.
John Lobb on St. James’s Street in London is widely regarded as one of the world’s preeminent bespoke shoemakers. Established in 1849, John Lobb has been discretely crafting bespoke shoes for some of the world’s most powerful and important people for over 150 years. The beautiful and expansive premises currently reside in the center of London’s West End at 9 St. James’s St. Now run by the fifth generation of Lobb family members, John Lobb stands, as it has always done, for extremely high standards in the exacting craft of bespoke shoemaking.
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Shop With Kirby: www.kirbyallison.com
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VIDEOS TO WATCH
John Lobb: • Inside The Original Jo...
Huntsman: • Huntsman & Sons In New...
Alan Flusser: • Stepping Outside My Co...
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[@jamesleeschmidt7312]

Man do I enjoy these videos watching such astonishing craftsmen and women demonstrating their well-honed skills and mastery of their trades. I not only find them more interesting than I would have ever guessed I would have, but I have also discovered a deep appreciation for their professions. Fantastic

[@MohammadRauf1]

years of work. tons of mileage.

[@mineeco9677]

To resume it in two words : Humble and simple. Typicall British understatement attitude. Jonathan Lobb is such a humble man who understands that his business is a private, behind doors, activity he's only handing over to the next generation.

[@Rei2140]

You seem very excited about getting measured for a pair of iconic John Lobb shoes... as you should be. You have had some amazing shoes made for you over the years. I would love to see a comparison video where you discuss the different makers. It is a luxury to experience all these different shoes, something that very few will have the opportunity to do. Please keep sharing these wonderful stories. Steve

[@kennethjohnson6141]

Excellent video Kirby. I learn so much from your videos. Those socks are wonderful, these are my next purchase from you

[@alexanderdylanthomas1891]

To be brutally honest, I'd much rather spend an afternoon with Dominic Casey.... Lovely as all of that hidebound tradition is, genuinely positive human contact will always trump it. Keep up this great series Kirby!

[@Lathlaer]

Other bespoke last makers: take 50 measurments in few positions along with an ink outline, do more fittings and send practice shoes. John Lobb: gotta keep it simple and have faith in your lastmaking, not time for shenanigans.

[@kzarandooz]

Bespoke Measurement: "traces around foot with a pencil" I used to bespoke measure my hand a lot in kindergarten

[@golfbuddy1969]

Kourosh Z good one. That Turkey that we all drew for thanksgiving was bespoke...

[@dismasjoseph7313]

Amazing video 👌👍

[@markroberts2378]

I like the way he is flicking his pencil! wish I could do that.

[@mauriceamaraggi8098]

I wonder if foot scanners could not help a lot in this kind of art? What do you think of Corthay and Meccariello shoes?

[@pickerrs]

Fascinating video. I wonder, do bespoke shoemakers, such as John Lobb, consider taking 3D Digital scans in order to make (or 3D print) the last?

[@rishikeshjadhav8651]

No they don't ....

[@theJade]

They don't but I feel you'll get a much more accurate measurement of the foot. May be an interesting direction for bespoke.

[@fluxnfiction5559]

When are the TLB MTO's be shipped??

[@Mr031068]

Really clever - I wonder why they don’t use a plaster mould of the foot ?

[@kenjohnson9662]

Brilliant

[@abhisunkara]

Kirby, nice video. We met at Carmina event in NYC. I have a question for you. What boots/shoes should I wear and still look good during rains and snow (winter in general) in NYC? Thanks :)

[@johnstephenandrew]

Black cap toe Balmoral, double oak sole or dainite rubber. Probably have to go bespoke.

[@swervsplatt9672]

Timberland...😉

[@floydferreira7110]

Are you available for commercial projects ?

[@johnnyjr.2619]

What kind of socks?

[@nz7921]

“The continuity of history”... philosophy in a nutshell

[@remingtonlowry6722]

How does one match a belt with a more uniquely colored shoe? I have blue suede shoes and I don't know what kind of belt goes with it.

[@russ9921]

Sadly, I believe things are not what they seem once you look past the supposed old-fashioned elegance of the tired looking shop. Other bespoke makers offer a trial shoe, take more detailed measurements and make adjustments according to wear on the trial shoe. I believe Lobb used to do in the past, but then cut it out - not because of belief in their ‘superior expertise’, but as a cost saving exercise. Why is it, you should also ask, that these people only do one fitting, whereas others do two or three? You wouldn’t buy a bespoke suit that way. Again, cost saving. It took two years to get my shoes right, and the pair I was initially given killed me. Finally they admitted they had made them too small after I got to the point of demanding my money back. I have a nice (Ok) pair now, but their designs are old fashioned and lack the elegance of Berluti or Gaziano & Girling. These people live on their past laurels in my view, charge more than anyone else (once you have commissioned the £5-6k shoes they then demand another £850 for the shoe trees) and are taking customers for granted. I have and shall take my business to another bespoke maker in future. There are in my opinion better alternatives at a better price.

[@burakperfumelover]

Can you list some of recomndations for ready to wear manufacturers

[@russ9921]

Gaziano & Girling, Crockett & Jones, Edward Green are all excellent. You could also try the other (ready to wear) John Lobb in Jermyn Street. They are owned by France’s ‘Hermes’, Lobb having licensed out the name a few decades ago, and are nothing to do with the overpriced bespoke firm the subject of this video. Church are good but in my view not as good as the other firms I mention.

[@burakperfumelover]

@@russ9921 didn't know there is 2 shops of john lobb ...which is the first branch .... the one in video or the jeremyn store .... and yes i liked edward green shoes but they are extremely price as lobb .... so its really confusing and hard to get the best materiel shoes for the price it really deserves

[@kirbyallison]

Russ My understanding is that Lobb is quick to fully remake if the fit is off. I’ve had a lot of shoes from a lot of different makers, and my experience is that fittings are no substitute to professional, detailed, and confident lastmaking. And all the fittings dramatically extend the making process. At the end of the day, you either get it right or you don’t. Given the seniority and tenure of Lobb’s lastmaker, I am led to believe that they are just simply able to get it right more often than not while being dramatically more efficient with the customer’s time. The issue of multiple fittings is a modern phenomenon. 40+ years ago, this would have been unheard of. As far as styling, Lobb and G&G couldn’t be more different and this comes down to personal preference. Lobb is a time-rested, classic silhouette that allows for a very comfortable fit. Whereas G&G is much more forward. Both great makers. But different. I’m sorry you had a bad experience, but I would definitely encourage you to reach out if you are still unhappy. A business doesn’t survive for 150+ years without a commitment to their customers, and I know that Lobb is second to none. If you’d like help, feel free to ping me on Instagram and I’ll connect you.

[@russ9921]

burak alshorman Lobb in St James’s Street is the original branch. They just do bespoke, no RTW. The name was licensed to Hermes (Jermyn Street branch who do RTW) some years ago (I believe in the 1970’s) in order to raise some finance. I own shoes from both and I would say both are equally well made, but of course with RTW you are more at risk on the fit. I have wide G fitting feet and the Jermyn Street branch seem to stop at an F width, so not ideal for me.

[@Pandre2011]

His understanding of the physiology of the foot is impressive! It’s like he is a pediatrist.

[@JSn00py]

Father Andre Melancon Pediatricians are doctors who manage the health of your child. I think the term that you’re looking for is “podiatrist”. Nice try big man.

[@golfbuddy1969]

Except less personality than most podiatrist, I’d say.

[@Pandre2011]

Podiatrist! That’s it! Lol

[@Pandre2011]

The podiatrist that makes my corrective orthotics is quite the personality. Dr James Lasky ☺️

[@golfbuddy1969]

Father Andre Melancon yes, if Mr Lobb was a podiatrist, he wouldn’t need any anesthetic to take care of those pesky ingrown toenails...his patients would just fall asleep.

[@Steve111]

Kirby, would you do a video about boots.

[@harcomou8395]

?* , not " . "

[@Kackspack0815]

💡He did, about cowboy boots. Uploaded on January 3, 2018: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y3qwdX2dZtOCepo

[@MomoBG2]

Kirby I think it is time to refresh the intro :) take inspiration from Peter Mckinnon :)

[@Honesty001]

He spoke beautiful

[@lunchladyjulie8597]

When are you gonna drop that sneakerhead video? We know you got Jordan's and Air max in your closet! Hollaaa!!!

[@louishuynh1558]

John Lobb is best bespoke shoes in the world👍

[@russ9921]

Louis Huynh Not in my view.

[@TheED0001]

long time no see ,show You wearing nice socks so good 👍

[@Nicki17321]

I had to take a second look at that thumbnail to make sure it wasn't something else...😐

[@shaun5944]

I'm surprised he doesn't have a high chair so he doesn't have to bend down and work off the floor

[@LGPanthers1]

Pull-ups over/under 5 and I'm taking the under

[@azlansharom7011]

Did you actually commission a pair of shoes with Lobb or was it just an exercise to demonstrate the measurement process?

[@kirbyallison]

This was just a demonstration of how John Lobb takes their bespoke measurements.

[@azlansharom7011]

Kirby Allison any plans to make a pair for yourself in future?

[@60zeller]

You make an outline and measure the foot,and then carve out a wood piece by hand. Then, adjustments may be necessary later. Because it is difficult to make wood replica of a foot. But, a scanner and a 3d printer would make an exact ( plastic) replica. I know, I know, old world craftsmanship is better. But is it?

[@Myrslokstok]

60zeller Ha ha no these guy have 10 years of knowledge, if casting the foot in plaster would make perfect shoes they would, but it is a different ballgame. They must make a beutifull shoe as well.

[@60zeller]

@@Myrslokstok not plaster, a scanner and a 3d printer would make a exact plastic replica of the foot.

[@Myrslokstok]

It has not so much to do with the exact mesures. It is about the right mesures, knowledge of the foot, last and how the finished product will change and look. But mostly I would say it is about the interaction with a master of his art. Conversation is a lost art to.

[@mr-fw1kf]

How many people have tried and failed using a scanner! Think about it and come back to the table with facts not fiction..

[@francispaul5621]

60zeller He is ultimately making a shoe for the foot to fit into, not a copy of your feet. The foot needs to be supported, to allow for expansion and contraction through hundreds of different, movements returning to an elegant shape when static. A shoe the shape and size of your actual foot would look hideous and almost impossible to secure to your feet to walk. A receptacle the shape of your foot is called a sock and if that’s too baggy or tight it will cause problems.

[@andymcarthur9260]

They may be bespoke,, but would anyone really know when you’re walking down the street in them? The world’s a strange place isn’t it… Some people are visiting food banks while others spend 5K on a pair of shoes.

[@J.c410]

Its not about the others knowing, its about about your confort and the quality / longevity of the shoe. And soeone who's interested in shoe can recognize when a pair is shaped to a person's foot yes

[@effay83]

Lee Dixon is a tough customer.

[@rimaarts]

10 minutes into video already 3 ads.... now I’m remembering why I stopped watching KZbin...

[@youtubecommenter2527]

uBlock Origin. Never watch an ad ever again.

[@Javi_C]

:)

[@derek19201]

He didn't laugh at Kirby's last shall be first joke

[@ShepProudfoot]

First

[@needfoolthings]

One word: thumbnail.

[@Jerry-tc5ik]

I went back to look at it. I wish I didn't. Thanks a lot.

[@needfoolthings]

@@Jerry-tc5ik Well, I'm glad I'm not the only one. Thank you, kind sir.

[@benzflynn]

Turn off the stupid backing track. It stops us hearing the dialogue clearly.

[@MrMh722]

Apparently Mr Lobb cannot smile; great shoe-maker though...

[@MrRRHHMM]

Kirby... you need to tell your audience early on what a ''last'' is ? its a wooded ''form'' but many people will not know, and it makes your vid, abit dull to watch for them.... John Lobb is a WONDERFUL shoemaker, no doubt about that...

[@suhaschaugule661]

Kirby is boaring in conversation It Shud have been left to the great Jonathan Laad to explain all

[@Vgy926]

Does this guy just walk around wearing expensive clothes all day?

[@joshnic6639]

Straight ruined this video by asking too many questions

[@Docante1]

£6000 for pair of shoes? Absolutely silly