Best Carburetor Mod - Vapor Lock & Inconsistent Performance Issues CORRECTED (You'll Never Go Back)

[@jamesfarmer6648]

I'm 65 yrs old, & been a mechanic all my life. You don't know how much I enjoy learning from someone such as yourself. THANK YOU

[@TheWolverine-rm2kr]

I'm 15 I've been working on everything since I was 8 Lol

[@TheWolverine-rm2kr]

Notice how I said working on stuff instead of fixing 😂

[@mcilwain67]

I'm 52 and own a shop and I am very impressed with this young guy ! Don't see it very often anymore. Great video!

[@jm-ve8ry]

I'm a tinkerer, I love listening to this guy. Very articulate, great vocabulary, communicates complex subjects in an easily understood way. That's a rare skill. Bet he has a super High IQ.

[@Portal12345678910]

I simply love the fact you always say what exactly you're driving or where the parts came from and what year and model they are. It's like you know exactly what I'm thinking! Great video btw!!!.

[@ThunderHead289]

i just try to ask myself "what would i want someone to do"? glad they are helpful !!!!

[@americanpatriot3638]

@@ThunderHead289 i need to get you up here to help me with the 390 in my 76 shortbed f100. You just have that touch. Can make anything run like a sewing machine. Do you ever get up to the northern part of South Dakota. I enjoy watching your videos. Very clear and easy to follow.

[@SadPuppySoup]

Great info, our drag car was basically un-tuneable all last year, changed dist, carb and manifold several times with no luck. After watching this I went out and checked all the fuel lines and bam, the return line is plugged. Going to run all new lines and see if that was our main problem, thanks for your wisdom and great vids.

[@stevenjenkinson6586]

I love the way you actually demonstrate the problems or benefits with gauges and rig stuff up to show us how and why things do what they do. I’ve learnt so much from these videos after many years of doing it wrong or not properly understanding. Thx Luke for taking the time to explain and demo this stuff.

[@Spudderr]

Never could figure out why my deadhead system was so inconsistent no matter what I changed or how I tuned it. Now I know why thanks. Steel drivers and carbed vehicles forever!

[@ThunderHead289]

It was a long road 5 years ago - out the o2 gauge in and saw what it was doing, researched and tested different things, and finally about 4 years ago I conquered the inconsistent carb. I’d drive that f100 in 100 degree Arizona heat with no fear

[@daveb6386]

@@ThunderHead289 Speaking of Arizona....lol. Luke, thanks for another great video. I’ve got a 79 Bronco with a 351M and a 70 Mercury Monterey with a 390 and it was driving me crazy that they would idle differently depending on the day here in Az. It ticked me off that I followed your carb tuning videos and had both of them idling great on the nice somewhat cool day that I set them up on, then summer arrived. . This video cleared up what is happening. I want to put a return system in both of those vehicles but I have a stupid question. I’ve never dealt with a fuel return regulator before and am curious on what to set the pressure at on the return regulator. If I’m reading the description of the regulator correctly on Amazon, the pressure is adjustable. Forgot to mention I’m running Edelbrock 600’s on both. I know you’ve heard it before but thanks again for all your videos you put out. They really do make a difference to everyone following you! The added bonus for me is I’m a Ford guy..lol

[@roberthemphill8588]

Old truck, a couple of good dogs, and farm dirt road... don't get much better than that. Really good carb info...thanks Luke. Look forward to Galaxie tearing up the pavement.

[@ThunderHead289]

me too man. this weekend ill be back at it!

[@Ken19700]

The dogs are so well behaved too. My dog would jump out of the back as soon as I stopped.

[@ezekiel4375]

Thank you very much! I'm rebuilding a 1964 Galaxie, it has a 302 in it. So all these how to's have really helped me since I'm relatively new to fixing up old cars.

[@ThunderHead289]

That’s great man, if I can even help one person not struggle through all this like I have had to, that’s good enough for me

[@Impactjunky]

Hey Luke it's Eric with the green Mopar from the Power Tour, I really enjoyed chatting with you at Martinsville! Thanks for being so polite and talkative and thanks for all the great vids like this. Luckily with my massive hood scoop, aluminum radiator, 160 degree T stat and air gap intake I never seem to have vapor lock issues. However I will be installing a fuel/air ratio gauge soon now that you've helped me understand how easy they are to install.

[@ThunderHead289]

Hey Eric, enjoyed chatting with you. They are indeed a great piece - I’d like to act like im some wizard, but I can always beat myself with the gauge vs without. I linked the AEM unit in this video along with the no weld bung - really good piece for the price

[@loganpe427]

Yo dog....! 😁👍 I'm an old and I mean old master auto mechanic, a licensed aircraft mechanic and a self taught engineer, (no I'm not bragging!) I think a fuel return line on a carbureted engine is a fantastic idea. One I "should" have thought of myself, damnit, great job man!

[@ThrottleResponse]

"'74 F100, had this thing for 12 years since back in high school..." -- you don't know how lucky you are bro :-). Great video, info and tips. So many people trash on carbs because they just don't know how to work them, or live with some imperfections. Carbs 4 life!

[@eaglewarrior8707]

Hard to live with carbs when you get wild temperature and humidity changes throughout the week when you are up north. EFI just makes life a little easier.

[@ThrottleResponse]

@@eaglewarrior8707, i know what you're saying, as I used to live in Massachusetts. But I have a modern car if I want that kind of reliability ;-)

[@eaglewarrior8707]

@@ThrottleResponse Hope you got it dirt cheap.

[@dennisnavarro6101]

Thanks for refreshing my memory. Literally saved my carbureted Mercruiser from the trash heap. Always leaving us stranded, constant battle to get it to run reliably. Now, with a BPR and a return line, it’s a reliable beast!

[@DavidBooze]

Thanks!

[@garywinters2282]

Another fun video Luke, love how you break it down and make it easy to understand!

[@ThunderHead289]

i appreciate that - i feel like it was still very cryptic on my part unfortunately - its difficult to fully explain in such a short time frame!

[@troydzuricsko7331]

Good stuff here! This is something I never really gave much thought about let alone doing with my 65 Impala. Good job.

[@TheDrunkardHu]

I just bought an '88 Buick Electra Estate Wagon that's carbureted! It's so nice!

[@inkscars6380]

Looks like I’m sitting in your classroom today brother!

[@ThunderHead289]

Parts links are in description above 👆👆👆 join us at facebook - (thunderhead289 carb & engine: tech/tune forum) parts links above as I always try to do

[@Dallas-Rife-UDX-347-Tennessee]

Very nice looking truck , under the hood looks really impressive . I Enjoy the channel . I know as much about carbs as a 3 year old does about quantum physics , but I'm getting a better understanding as I get older and watch videos . Keep it up , great job

[@mattmiles9779]

Why do you need a regulator on the return? I thought you would need the regulator before the carb adjustef to about 6psi. What psi do you set the regulator to after the carb? I love your videos! Im watching from Okinawa Japan. Semper Fidelis!

[@feelingold2995]

@@mattmiles9779 Im by no means an expert, however i think with his setup if the return would freeflow back to the tank he would lose his desired pressure to the carb.

[@pearlperry6373]

I enjoyed the video and i dig the steel drivers tune. I battled vapor lock issues on my 460, it's in 75 f250 supercab 4x4. I ended up blocking the heat riser and adding a coolcarb plate to fix the issue. I already had a Carter mechanical pump and a regulator set to 5 psi with a 3/8 feed. This set up has been very reliable and smooth. I'm sure the af is a bit unstable during long idle periods but this truck usually is moving and not sitting idle for more than a few minutes at a traffic light. When I first started brainstorming the vapor lock issue, I wanted to do an electric pump with regulator and return, but I'm picky and wanted an in tank unit that would run a future efi system. This was more $$$ than I was willing to invest at the time. So for now I enjoy the simplicity of the mechanical pump but will upgrade to electric in the future. By the way I have made close to 13 mpgs with this set up on a 140 mile road trip, no od and a small slide in camper in the bed. Q jet carb.

[@TheProchargedmopar]

Love the truck, I've got a 73 F100/390fe/C6 and I drove mine in H.S too back in the late 80's. Sniper efi Installed on mine though.

[@jimholmes2555]

I have a 1986 Ford Full Size Bronco. 300 Inline 6, 4 Speed and the last year of the Carburetor! Although mine Had a Feedback Carb that was a pain in the A$$. I swapped it out with a 1980 one barrel Carter carb without that feedback crap to the computer. Runs like a Dream!!!

[@HighCaliberPC]

I had to do something very similar on my Camaro. In South Florida with the hood down, vapor lock in no time. I had to make a return like like yours but I could not find a suitable regulator with a return so I used a nitrous nozzle to cause a restriction in the return line. Glad I'm not the only one "hacking" a carburetor!

[@TheJohndeere212]

I missed my '76 Ford F100. I have an '86 Ford F150 4x4 with 302 and 6" lift and size 33 tires. Right now my carburetor works great with no issues.

[@danielmcqueen1024]

Love seeing the ole Blue 74'! Can't wait on you getting the Galaxie500 going... I bet my 71' Galaxie500 will be on the road first :) Great Videos and always a Thumbs Up!

[@ThunderHead289]

Challenge accepted 💪

[@deanstevenson6527]

Ford England in 1972 and Ford Australia in 1982 with it Carter fuel pump and Jeep and in about 1972 AMC and Chrysler Corp and Mistubishi added bleedback carb filtration. Fords TripMinder Crown Vics had it constantly from 1982, a copy of the 2.8 Bosch Injection European Capri and Granada and South African P100 Truck. In 1963, Ford, Carter and Rochester in the USA had a Hot Idle Compensator to sort this out for very hot underhood conditions...like you get with Air Conditioning or in Vans . Over the last 19 years Ive frequented Fords US Websites, 99% of people have ben totally sceptical of hit fuel handling problems and similarly, the need for vapor return or carb fuel bleed back. Uncle Tonys Garage and your video really help open up the problems. A car wont happily idle at stoichometery.

[@2003garyb]

Luke, you're one of my favorite car/truck guys. Thanks for sharing your experiences. Take care, my friend

[@marklarue5083]

nice to see videos that are not BS . Very good...always . Carbs forever .

[@aberakadabra1285]

Thats right , I replaced my cam driven mechanical fuel pump with a holley red electronic fuel pump, custom fuel rail and I never run out of fuel ;) makes for easier starting too.

[@burbdood]

Well I'll be dipped....great video

[@meek01__53]

Thank you for giving a realistic solution to the downfall of most carburetors👍 I have a 67 Mustang convertible with a 302, 289 heads edelbrock 600 carb, Heddman headers and a pertronix pro billet aluminum distributor. It runs decent but at times I do get the lag and rough idle that drives me nuts. This gives me a great option to smooth it out, THANK YOU for the great suggestion!!!

[@basshead38]

I had to do the same thing to my SBC in my S10. Would run crappy and vapor lock and start hard. Fuel bowls were reading around 155° F and after installing a return line they are down to 100° F and the motor starts right up easily no matter how hot it is out. Great video! Keeping the fuel moving keeps everything cooler and running better for sure.

[@shanecollins5601]

Hadn't even thought about this mod...well it's on my list now. Thank ya sir! Great video as well.

[@morgansword]

Good job Thunder, most people don't have a clue, they will look at a throttle body and call it a carb. Nope, nada no way prince. But fuel can make or break most rigs performance. Trying to make fuel squeezers out of a say 750 holley or afb carter just doesn't happen but it can be made to run good and that will save money

[@alectraproject]

We did this back....let me think ....early eighties in Australia. Nice to see you have done the same. Good work Mate!

[@ThunderHead289]

I’m 26 and I discovered the return line in my galaxie back in 2015 - but I just never got around to doing the f100. The galaxie was simple with that fuel cell - once I had a return line it, it was night and day

[@papasteve215]

Dim really glad I found this video. I have an ‘89 Ford with a351-w that I’m fixing to convert to carb. It’s obviously a FI system so it should already have a return line. I’m waiting for the coil to arrive and I’m going to order an rv style cam. I had not thought about utilizing the return line until I watched this video. Thanks for the info.

[@ThunderHead289]

Make sure that you get a carb style distributor also - on the injection distributor the computer advances the timing - a carb required a mechanical advance w/ vacuum advance capable distributor

[@papasteve215]

ThunderHead289 Yep. I did, thanks for the reply.

[@brianskinner4328]

Even fuel injection has issues like this as well. Very well explained luke

[@ThunderHead289]

i wished i would have drove home a few additional points, but for myself its always a major battle to not get really long winded.

[@Ken19700]

@@ThunderHead289 20 & 30 minute videos are good too.

[@MS-ts4db]

So in conclusion name of the game is correct return, tuning, and a mechanical and electric pump set up. I have a Mr Gasket fuel cooler I was going to put on instead of electric fuel pump for a twin Eldelbrock 500cfms on a hot 496 CBB. Great vid man.

[@Z3CHYD]

I just picked up a 68 F100, 352 3 on the tree, and I've been watching your videos far before getting it. It's got a stumble and loads up when i let off the gas then get back on it, so I'm guessing timing. But your vids always help me diagnose that sorta stuff!

[@ThunderHead289]

I would start with the basics - set the carb transfer slots to a square, put the vacuum advance on the ported vacuum port, and advance the ignition timing till you have your desired idle!

[@JohnnyFaber]

Great Tip!!! I have been fighting my 77 f250 carb tune for a while now (460, midrange cam, Holley 750 vacuum secondary, mechanical pump, dead head system) and I think this will solve my detonation issue. Awesome. Love your channel!

[@ThunderHead289]

i need to make a video about detonation - two types: 1. timing related 2. octane related. both classified as the cylinder charge igniting before the piston is on its way down the bore. a lot of guys have too aggressive of total timing, or way too much advance. the leaner the mixture though, the more likely it is to detonate as a richer 12:1 charge will actually help to cool the chamber - so in that aspect, a return line will help!

[@JohnnyFaber]

@@ThunderHead289 i need to check my total timing as well. I have a feeling my advance springs may be a little funky as well.

[@chrisgosselin6399]

Nice bro I like when someone stays loyal to a truck

[@stantaur3]

Agree that the percolation/vapor issue hurts carbureted AFR because carbs are static (vs. EFI adjusting fuel mix dynamically). I'd like to see Air/Fuel after you re-opened the return line, but your vids are great & have been a help for me designing my fix. Fuel sits in carb's bowls at atmospheric pressure, so E10-ish fuel still boils in there at 110-115F. So my solution was to reduce carb temp since it usually sits in an underhood environment of 190F or more (radiator exhaust, headers, engine heat...) So keeping fuel cool in the lines UP to the bowls helps, but keeping the *bowls* cooler (via an enclosed cold air box from manifold/phenolic-spacer junction up to hood) plus ensuring fuel in the lines is as cool as possible. This airbox is similar to Cobras' "Turkey Pan" solution under their scoops, so I built something similar under the hood of our Z, and fed it with two 4" ducts from the nose of the car, and lined it with Reflectix insulation. Result is carb bowls stay at ambient air temp vs. under-hood being 190F plus. I've seen some vids showing electric fuel pump and return system is heating the fuel similar to a mechanical pump. EFI's advantage here is that it keeps the fuel at 40-50 PSI all the way to the injector which then sprays it into the intake tract, whereas carbs have the fuel at atmospheric pressure in the bowls (and before that, either 7-ish PSI in the line after a mech pump or 40-50 PSI in the line after an electric pump). Thanks again for great vids and intelligent analytical commentary.

[@ThunderHead289]

I can tell from reading this that you are very intelligent. It is definitely a losing game - you can only do so many things. Fuel just doesn’t need to be what it was back in the day because at 40 to 50 psi, it resists a phase change quite well. The bowls are the biggest issue - why someone hasn’t designed a pass through carb for the aftermarket world, I don’t know. Some European cars bypass right through the carb itself like the datsuns. This seems like a great design feature to me.

[@100degeneracy7]

You should absolutely start an Amazon store with a put together kit for this and make a video explaining how to to do it! I have a 1978 Ford Ltd and I would love to learn how to install this to mine!

[@robertsymalla1071]

The carb wizzerd teaching us how to keep a truck alive! Love your vids!

[@ThunderHead289]

I see a theme here where I’m being referred to as the carb wizzard😂

[@RalphSampson...]

Dude, your an automotive genious! I have a '62 F100 with a 302. I'm going to see if I can do this. Thanks!

[@ThunderHead289]

Idk about that, I’m just not content with things being a bit off 👍 The wideband is the biggest improvement you can make first and foremost as you can see what’s going on. No more flying blind

[@CheapThrills66chevy]

I would have liked to see you turn the valve back on and watch the AFR stabilize once it started getting cooler fuel. I have heard of some guys having issues on fuel injection vehicles where the big high flow high pressure pump heats up the fuel and returns to the tank enough that all of the fuel gets hot in the fuel tank.

[@ThunderHead289]

i wanted to, but for the sake of video time i didnt - i could honestly talk for hours about carbs and ignition timing. maybe i need to just start doing live tech talks

[@beniamino939]

Did the same thing with my Dodge. A 318 LA block with a 4-barrel and 3-speed torque flite. An electric fuel pump that can be switched as a backup for a mechanical pump works good with this problem.

[@BoxcarsGarage]

Glad I found your vid. I'm collecting pieces for a 350 to power my 28 Ford... I like the idea of engineering a return feature from the start. I've got a Eldebrock 1406 waiting for me to saddle it up. Thanks!!

[@ThunderHead289]

It will work great for you!

[@79f1fitty5]

Great video Luke. Gives me an idea for my f150

[@mustangguy8622]

Awesome love this just found your channel from a freind here in the Uk. I have a 74 long bed custom.

[@WhiteLightning777]

I have a 1968 Mercury cougar with it's original 302 block and mechanical pump. I love the reliability of a mechanical unit & I've never set up a return line on anything else I had previously. What will happen if you install a return line system but retain and mechanical pump? How does it decide when to return fuel if I did?

[@0richbike]

Excellent demo and explaination. Unfortunately I now feel compelled to fit a return to my spitfire.

[@davidtoddmickens5558]

Hey, I should have thought about this earlier..wood like to buy my 62 f100.. 302 85 mustang...no accidents..needs -door trim, bushings, paint job, idler arm, some other minor cosmetic stuff..it's actually a handsome truck.. .why I do this¿? ..u have MUCH more experience than I...u woOd dO gOod with it ...that's all ... If I had the money I do the same as you with that my truck . Excellent information.. sincerely D.T.M.

[@huntsman5226]

That's great information I have had trouble with my carb doing that I'm going to set mine up with the return line setup

[@Thunderbird1968]

I had a 74’ f100 with a 390fe in it. My favourite truck ever

[@jerrykirby7150]

If the regulator is after the carb will the carb see full preshure?? i dont understand yours because my regulator is before the pump And how do you feel about return style fuel filters?

[@ThunderHead289]

It’s the same way injection setups are done on any production car

[@georgeshadrick640]

thanks for the video in your service love the dogs

[@Zelaznogsiul-63]

I am not well versed on the carburetor gospel, you said return regulator. How do you adjust the fuel pressure going in to the carburetor? Did I misunderstand something? It happens all the time. Great video.

[@jasonpaine9546]

Love your videos you do such a great job of explaining and demonstrating things!

[@johnpossum556]

When I was a kid my father had a Ford with a 351 in it that would diesel. I remember once we went to pick up some relatives at the airport and we came back 45+ minutes later the car was still sputterin' away and just as we got about 10 feet from it the thing died. Hilarious!

[@ThunderHead289]

That’s insane! Book of world records worthy!

[@rayfalcoa1955]

sir you are a very smart individual,thank you for sharing.

[@XxMusclecarsxX]

Glad I have a return system on mine!

[@captainwyattoutdoors1636]

Great content here! You have convinced me to add a return line to my carbureted setup. Thanks!

[@danielfisch655]

Sweet truck, informative video and thank you for sharing. Send it!!!

[@umangu]

Is this the same effect as putting in a fuel filter that has a vapor return line to the tank?

[@thestuffz]

My 73 is still a mechanical pump but it had a factory return fuel line. Above the fuel pump before it gets to the distributor area there was a bypass that runs back to the tank. hell if I know if it still works lol

[@ThunderHead289]

The oldschool factory return stuff that started to hit the scene was manageable, but still didn’t quite correct the issues - my 84 mustang with a hole in the hood and factory pump return was resilient, but still couldn’t handle traffic in 90 degrees for a long time. Returning after the carb really does the trick - the bigger your electric pump, the better in this case

[@PulledPurk]

I got a 65 Econoline. 170. Love it. I might have to look into this.

[@RDC_Autosports]

runnin a 950 on my 281 02 saleen speedlab mustang, run a return line from my FPR back to the tank so i don’t get vapor lock and the fuel wont stay that compressed so it won’t get hot

[@robertoarias5896]

My 82 firebird already has a fuel return line from pump to tank. I’m adding your set up and I’m wondering if I can use that line by adding a T fitting so I keep both.

[@ThunderHead289]

I’m sure that would be just fine, although you may want to upsize the line

[@7erDave]

would this be necessary in a system on a 351c with a mechanical pump? I know that you said you need an electric pump and that a mechanical pump is variable. So does that variability make it so it is not necessary for a return line? It has always seemed to run just fine cold or hot with little tuning required. I have the engine pulled from my 71 f100 right now (it was an earlier swap) and i'd like to know for when it goes back in shortly.

[@ThunderHead289]

It’s not that it makes it so that it’s not necessary for a return line, it just makes it so that you can’t run one in the typical manner. With a mechanical pump, line pressure would be too low at idle - once driving, pressure would come up. This variable pressure makes for a variable float height. Mopar made a fuel filter with a return port for mechanical systems - I know one came on the 79 Córdoba. That’s a good half way point between a full blown return system, and not having one at all.

[@mudlifejunkiepr3937]

I have a 460 big block with a 750 Harley carb I have no return on my carb and my fuel pressure keeps on jumping from 6:00 to 9 1/2 when I put it in drive and hit the gas it shuts off do you think of return line will help that

[@Americantrucker01]

Hey Luke do you have a straight video on just fine tuning a 4bbl edlebrock carb I've got one that's not quite rite on a Chevy 350 bb lmk ty love the videos 👍🏁🏁

[@ThunderHead289]

if you have facebook, join the thunderhead289 group - its for troubleshooting and tuning. im very active there and work with people a lot

[@Americantrucker01]

@@ThunderHead289 appreciate it my friend but not on Facebook don't believe in it think it's all trouble another story another time and not enough liquor in the world lol but if you got an email address maybe you could gimme a hand👍

[@nathanbutler8240]

A chevy 350 big block?

[@Americantrucker01]

@@nathanbutler8240 that's what I said??

[@nathanbutler8240]

@@Americantrucker01 you said a Chevy 350 bb

[@trippcorbin8850]

Have you ever done a 2bbl swap on a 200 inline 6? if so what set up would you recommend?

[@ProjectFairmont]

Tripp Corbin Clifford performance. They have adapters to mount a 2bbl on the single hole intake log.

[@olblu8746]

I've had for over 38 yrs. a 69 swb f-100. It's a great looking truck. I'm keeping it. It originally had a 302 V8, l replaced it with a low mileage 300 6cyl , but l can't get it to idle, replaced gaskets. The engine came out of an 83 van . l just can't get it to idle, after a while it vapor locks and l'm stuck until it cool down, which could be hours. I just can't get it to run right, afraid to go any where in it and be stranded. Could you help me out? Thanks.

[@matthewsmith-ng9ds]

Whats ur fuel economy like in this minty piece for ford treasure? Lookin to do a similar build

[@ThunderHead289]

18-20 basically the same as a modern truck.

[@lilscarred8516]

@@ThunderHead289 holy that's really good

[@eppyschopshop]

Cool videos man! I'm getting ready to revud my 78 f100s 302. Great tips I'll he tuning back in often lol

[@FinklelsEinhorn]

had a gas leak soaking throught the base connector gasket and i ended up buying a new 3236 dgev carb and did not replace the base plate for the manifold. The new carb worked fine with no vacuum/gas leaks for about a month then it all of a sudden srarted leaking gas through the new gasket in the same place it did before. What can i do to permanently fix this issue? When the gas leaks obviously its idling poorly and basically breaks down until it starts again. I need to correct this asap. Thanks for your help. Any suggestions would be great. Truck is sitting there in my garage waiting on me until i can fix this issue and all i want to do is drive it. Nobody in my area knows anything about weber carbs or wants to work on them so i feel like im on my own. Thanks

[@55RickyRicardo55]

Why is the regulator after the carb feed? Why does the return need a regulator?

[@ThunderHead289]

Howdy, That is the best of the best design as it performs two great functions. Being a return specific regulator, and takes whatever is not needed to maintain the pressure setting and sends it back to the tank, so it’s a variable volume return which means you will always have consistent pressure. Having the return after the carb is the best location in that you are bypassing the whole entire fuel supply line which is minimizes hot fuel/vapor lock related issues to the highest degree

[@jasonjohnson2250]

Good enough i like it hold on to it forever worst decision i ever made is let my 68 go or my 84 both amazing trucks im an edlebrock fan but fords do like hollys

[@ThunderHead289]

It doesn’t matter either way - have a bit more adjustability in a Holley, so that makes them more angry if not set up correctly

[@mikesuch9021]

My 77 F150 4x4 did not come with fuel return system. But the new carburetor does. Do I just block it off?

[@ThunderHead289]

No carb has a built in return line - you must have a divorced float bowl dual feed

[@patleclere246]

Gonna have to look into this. Might be just the thing for my ramcharger it's always hard to start when it gets warmed up

[@ThunderHead289]

Pat LeClere it will definitely help - couple this with an insulative carb spacer like what I have on my truck hear and you won’t have the slightest issue.

[@andy347495]

Do you think the heat effect would be even more with a big block? does a phonelic carb spacer help at all?

[@Gneralthomasidea]

You said in the video that the truck is built for fuel mileage and driveability, how does it actually do on mileage?

[@ThunderHead289]

FordTough79 I can get 21 mpg out of it if I don’t go over 65 👍 I’ll take that for an antiaerodynamic truck. Front is literally concave

[@lt.schlechtnacht9414]

What about quadrajets. Don't they automatically adjust the air fuel ratio?

[@ThunderHead289]

That’s a nope 👍

[@loganpe427]

No, not like you are thinking.

[@crazykellywfo4240]

Very informative video, I learned a little as well. Nice Ford, should call it OL' BLUE. Question, why does the temperature go up when the fuel gets heavy or thick. I know a lot of Hot Rodders have that problem and I've always wondered why.

[@ThunderHead289]

Howdy friend, I’m not sure what you mean when you say “the temperate goes up when the fuel gets thick”. Fuel is not a viscous liquid, so I’m not sure I follow. Now fuel does get molecularly thinner as it gets hotter

[@crazykellywfo4240]

@@ThunderHead289 What I meant was, why does the density the gas go up and cause the motor to get hot.

[@1966human]

Iv'e got 2 tanks for the return line to run back to any ideas ?

[@ThunderHead289]

Secondary tank selector valve, except on the return line. Piggy back the control signal to the second selector

[@1966human]

@@ThunderHead289 Have you seen the $ 8 cure for vapor lock on uncle Tony's garage channel

[@oldreliable303]

On my 94 f150 i have had 2 of the carter pumps die on me. Keep a spare pump in the cab.

[@ThunderHead289]

all electric pumps tend to fail deadhead style - the fuel cools the vane pump/motor. when you are at idle, that pump is hitting the internal bypass where the same fuel is in the pump and it gets hot and burns up. iv never lost a pump since i went return - lost them a lot beforehand

[@oldreliable303]

@@ThunderHead289 i have a holley 12-803 bp that is a bypass regulater, youve seen it in my video "efi to carb 300 l6" these new old stile pumps just aint made very well. The carter pump we are using was made for dodge power wagons in the 40s. And i do run my truck hard, i did a 18 hour run hauling steel for my welding compane and never shut the truck off.

[@paulmelhuish9213]

i have a question , i am lost ! i have a 1941 Chevy 3100 with a 454. i wanted to run a rear fuel cell along with the stock gas tank ( behind the seat). i have a electric fuel pump (holley) i went to a return fuel regulator and returned it to the fuel cell in the rear of the truck. i was having issues with my fuel regulator gauge saying 6lbs of fuel pressure but the gauge on the carburetor would read 3lbs then after driving would not register at all. i then took the rear tank out went to a dead head fuel regulator and i still have the problem. the truck still runs with the fuel pressure at the carb being 3 and sometimes goes to 0. the regulator and the gauge on the carb never match and the regulator is on the firewall . i even placed a one way fuel valve thinking the fuel was feeding back to the pump and the line was being drained of fuel. i was having issues when it was hot with the bypass regulator. sometimes the bypass regulator would actually send so much fuel to the fuel cell return line that it would over flow the rear gas tank . i have taken the carb out , checked all lines, replaced all lines and i cant figure it out . at this point deadhead fuel regulator only the in the cab tank running and it s running good .

[@blakethompson8022]

I know you are a fan of the summit carbs. Sounds like its running great for you. Have you noticed any issues with the mixture screws and the internal threads for them on the carb body at all? Thanks for posting more pratical and very easy to understand tech info.

[@speedster0351]

Ok excellent but couple of questions; do you have a regulator from the pump side? I have a Holley blue set to 6psi. What’s the return pressure you have set? Do I open full pressure from the pump side reg an only regulate from the return reg? Thanks

[@ferberb9662]

Good video do you have videos on how to tune the carburetor and the timing

[@ferberb9662]

A yes you have a video of the first adjustments nice 👍

[@ThunderHead289]

Iv been around carbs for a long long time

[@saulgarcia5206]

I have a 73 F100 390 with Edelbrock manifold and 4bbl carb. Would this set up work? Now that I put long tube exhaust it is touching return fuel line and I think I need to relocate that line or something . Any advise?

[@Ayeobe]

Gotta do this to my F350. Cool system!

[@WesternReloader]

Mr Thunderhead, I have a 1980 Ford Bronco 302 with a New Process NP435 Granny Low. I’m not sure what condition the motor is because it dies after driving it about 10 minutes. I’m going to Pick a part to grab a 94-95 351 roller, and am going to swap it. My question is can I take a picture of my existing engine compartment and can you point out if I have a fuel return or not? I’m guessing my engine is vapor locking Thx! Rich

[@joshdrobny93]

I would think twice about swapping an engine if you can't figure out if your carb has a return line

[@HammerHeadGarage]

Moroso 65385 fuel return kit for the filler neck.

[@ThunderHead289]

That’s literally right in the parts lists with a link

[@HammerHeadGarage]

@@ThunderHead289 apologies

[@scottireland7722]

Who the hell has the balls to thumb down Luke? A Nash fuelie fan, I'm sure.

[@jimholmes2555]

Scott, The "Thumbs Down" come from Snowflakes!

[@93coupes26]

What's wrong with rubber lines? Why dont you like them?

[@ThunderHead289]

Because they can melt, split, and just are generally more likely to fail. Especially over time, they get hard, crack at hose clamp connections, and can leak fuel on a hot engine - and you know how that’s going to end!

[@93coupes26]

@@ThunderHead289 ok thankyou ..so you run all hard lines?

[@BigBlock402]

Great video, very well explained. Thanks for sharing.

[@berserk7111]

Any ideas on how to convert to a return line with dual tanks?

[@ThunderHead289]

Dual directional valves - either a manual 3 way, or electric triggered by the same switch as the tank selector

[@lindaleehulsey3167]

Your a GENIUS from another 🌎

[@bryanroupe8646]

I use rubber line of all my carb engines lol my mustang has braided like under the hood for looks but goes right to a rubber line lol. Good branded line isn't cheap. Good rubber line is super cheap. Been thinking about doing a e85 conversion on the mustang since it's all over here in Ohio and is around 105 octane.

[@bryanroupe8646]

Yeah but it will make more power, if I cared about fuel milage I would have left it stock. It's right around 10.9:1 compression so I run 93 and its stupid expensive here.

[@bryanroupe8646]

My buddy runs it in his 306 and he said it's not 30% difference like everyone on the internet claims.

[@MrDLRu]

A cool day in Arizona is about 100degrees...lol I really should upgrade the 2100 to a 4100 in the 71' F100 @ 302cid. Well, one day maybe.

[@TheKeymaster316]

This looks really interesting. If you could put a diagram of how this is all hooked up on your Facebook page, that would be awesome. Might be able to get the 460 up to double digit mpg!

[@ThunderHead289]

ill remember to do that here shortly

[@plugger410]

Did this ever get posted? Thanks!