Best Chisels For Woodworking - Narex vs. WoodRiver

Best Chisels For Woodworking. Rob Cosman does a head to head chisel review between the Narex Richter and the WoodRiver Socket chisel. Choosing the best chisels for woodworking can be challenging, especially if you are a beginner. Let Rob teach you all about chisels and how to determine who makes the best chisels for woodworking
00:00 Overview
01:30 Narex Richter Chisel
05:33 WoodRiver Socket Chisel
08:43 Flatting the backs and sharpening the chisels
15:15 The cutting test
19:10 Rob's Evaluation
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[@SweetTGuitars]

I've bought both of these and I have to say the Narex holds an edge way longer and even though the blade is thinner, that hasn't made a noticeable difference. I like the Narex so much better that I bought an entire set of bevel edge chisels. I personally think for the price, you won't beat a Narex!

[@elizabetholiviaclark]

I'm about one week from finally being able to buy the dovetail saw. I was saving for it, then had a set back, but now I'm on track. I'm excited, but I see all these videos where Rob shows every tool that goes into making dovetails, and I'm realizing it's going to be a lesson in patience as I'll have to add to my tools as I can afford. This is one time I really wish I could submit to the primal desire for instant gratification.

[@MintStiles]

Why do you need a specific saw? They all function just fine. Vintage backsaws can often be found for 20 bucks, plus another 5 for a saw set and a file. Tools are good because they are well tuned. Steel is still just steel. I am sure Rob's tools are great, but it's no different than any other well made tool.

[@watermain48]

I have a set of the Stanley SWs and am pretty happy with them. I also have one of the Narex Richter chisels in 1/2". It's also a nice chisel. I didn't go as far as Rob did on getting rid of the radius on the edge, but it seems to work well for me.

[@crowlers6]

Thank you, Rob, for this test, I'm looking to purchase a set of chisels soon and this test helped me decide tremendously!

[@18roselover]

Rob, I bought a set of Narex richter chisels 1 year ago after . I saw an australian luthier touting them. Most of the work I do with them is paring, So I definitely see your POV. For cabinetmaking a thicker chisel. like the wood river is more appropriate . I replaced a number 6 old stanley blade with a wood river number 6 plane blade. Impressive! . I use it mainly on a skewed shooting board.

[@douglasswatts9448]

Excellent review! Love the sharpening comparison.

[@hbert06]

I am gonna call this Robs "Narex-Bashing-Period"!

[@storylineamerica4108]

I love the Richter Chisels and I'm glad I asked you about them last month, but this was the information I needed to make an informed decision!👍👍👍

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

You asked, I delivered

[@storylineamerica4108]

@@RobCosmanWoodworking I needed to make an edit!

[@dkbuilds]

Thanks for this review! I have the woodriver socket chisels and I like them quite a bit... though, I have had two handles snap now at the connection to the socket, the second when when I was in the middle of chopping a mortise :( However, I called up woodcraft and they immediately shipped me out some replacement handles, no questions asked... so that's nice!

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Woodcraft is good about that. But these are bench chisels, not designed for mortise chopping, that could have been part of the issue with the second handle?

[@dkbuilds]

@@RobCosmanWoodworking Sorry I misspoke, I meant clearing the waste in a mortise which I mostly hogged out with a power router. I was hitting it fairly hard, yes, but I'd expect the handle to survive... it's a chisel!

[@jwayneair]

I’m fussy about sharpening, polishing, and sanding. One tip I would offer is when flattening and polishing, alternate pushing the blade from the right side of one stone to the left side of the next stone, which will create a crosshatch pattern, which will show that when all the marks left by the previous stone are gone, the crosshatch will be gone, leaving only the marks from the current stone.

[@Ammed_KN6STX]

Good comparison video, great job!

[@chrisp7957]

My goodness Rob, looks like you poked the bear in this video LOL. Always enjoy your work and wish I was half the woodworker you are. see you on the next one.

[@patfinnerty1115]

Thanks Rob I am considering some new chisels I was thinking along the lines of the Lee Nelson and one or two rather than a full set. My Wood River 5 1/2 arrived it looks and feels fantastic I can't wait to sharpen the blade and try it. I wish you and your family a happy and safe Christmas thanks for all your work

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Thanks. You really cannot compare a premium priced chisel to a budget chisel, not a fair comparison. Thats why I did a heads up review of two budget price chisels

[@scottgates601]

@@RobCosmanWoodworking Don't you compare LN mortise chisel against a narex mortise chisel though? What about comparing a ray iles mortise chisel against the LN/LV mortise chisels?

[@leprechaun7667]

​@@RobCosmanWoodworking What are the chisels you use??

[@jlmfoy365]

James Wright recently did a test of a large number of chisel manufacturers and Narex Richter came out on top.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Don’t know about that, the test I just did is a fair test and shows two equally priced chisels.

[@murphymmc]

I've watched Mr. Wright, I watch Rob, little comparison on experience and skill level. Rob is a reliable and credible source. Mr. Wright means well.

[@thwwoodcraft1449]

@@murphymmc absolutely correct

[@grantwilliams630]

@@murphymmc he had a pretty scientific methodology and even produced a spread sheet that you can apply your own weighting to get a personalized ranking system

[@joshc7200]

​@@murphymmc Doesn't Rob help design some of Woodriver's equipment - legitimately not sure on this but I think he has mentioned it in the past? If so, a vested interest may play a part here. I watched James video and he was very systematic and used third-party labs to measure the impact on each blade as well as other objective and empirical measurements. I watch both but I have to hand the win here to James Wright. However, note this is only in relation to edge retention, sharpness and how easy they are to sharpen (basic metallurgy of the chisel). Rob's comments such as the thickness of the chisel are still valid and worth your consideration if picking between the two. In the end, both Rob and "Mr. Wright" do mean well but if we remove the opinions/subjectivity and focus on the objective tests - the Narex wins. Remember that actual valid testing is considered more reliable evidence then expert opinion. Don't take this personal Rob, love your work. I'm sure the community would like your commentary on James Wright's video. Perhaps your more extensive experience could offer even more insight.

[@tdkrei]

Thanks Rob.

[@evilwoodchuck]

Thanks for the video Rob. I have a set of Irwin Marples chisels that I started off with and I agree with you on the handles, I tend to avoid using them because I don't care for the handles on them.

[@manifestgtr]

Not only that but the handles add so much weight to them. I can see where that might be advantageous for certain things but man...detail work is a lot easier with my two cherries and narex stuff. At the end of the day, you could do worse though. My old harbor freight chisels are just godawful. The irwins feel high end by comparison...

[@scottswineford6714]

I really like my Narex chisels, just a few minutes flattening and honing and they were ready to go. They feel enough better than my 40 year old marples that I put them back in the box.

[@mm9773]

Great. If I’m ever unsure about which chisel to buy, I’ll consult a video by someone who has ties to one of the manufacturers 😂

[@patriot_1776]

I bought a set of Narex based on james Wright's video. I was not disappointed at all. They are fantastic, especially at the price. I don't disagree with the assessment here (blade thickness), but don't disregard Narex, they really are nice chisels.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

As i said at the end both chisels were very close to each other. Had Narex made a more substantial blade i think it would have easy won. As is that thin blade has drawbacks. But its a good budget chisel, as I said

[@patriot_1776]

@@RobCosmanWoodworking to be fair, I said "I don't disagree". :) Love your videos Mr. Cosman, keep 'em coming. And thank you for the purple heart project! You do great things and should be proud.

[@S_Bellew]

@@RobCosmanWoodworking - thick blades also have disadvantages which you failed to mention. They are heavier and bulkier, harder to navigate for precise work, and more tiring for your fingered and hands. This is a matter of preference, and type of work you do, not budget. We are talking pairing chisels here, not picks, right? The minimum hardness of 58 firmly places the Woodriver into a cheap budget range of chisels. That's exactly what the big box store 10 dollar chisels have... The minimum hardness of 62 which Narex has, is in the high end category. The minimum hardness of Japanese chisels is 63... Again, we are talking 25 degrees pairing chisels. They are not meant for mortise work. In fact, one has to be a fool to use pairing chisels for mortise work, because even the most expensive one will lose its edge almost immediately if used like that. If used as intended, the chisels with minimum hardness of 62 will hold their edge way longer than any chisel with minimum hardness of 58, which you, of cause, failed to demonstrate or even mention. This is a very misleading marketing video.

[@normanbergeron80]

Thanks for the info

[@garyhome7101]

I'll be getting Lie Nielsen chisels as a holiday gift! But thanks for this evaluation, it adds a lot to understanding the craftsmanship and results of competitive tools!

[@keats182]

Can you even find them? I know they stopped making their mortising chisels. Are they still making their regular ones?

[@garyhome7101]

@@keats182 as of a couple of months ago they were available. I bought a mortise chisel from them online, and told my LOs about them and that they should actually call them. Can't say what the status is now as gifts. I know as of today they're unavailable online.

[@eugenetaljaard7568]

I'm told by LN that the mortising chisels should be back in stock by the end of January.

[@keats182]

@@garyhome7101 I've been looking on their website once or twice a week but I've never called them. I had been looking at the site and drooling but when I finally decided to buy one, they were completely out. But all of the smaller, American made tool companies are struggling. Blue Spruce toolworks is just as bad.

[@garyhome7101]

@@keats182 I was amazed at the mortise chisel I bought from them. I did have to spend some time flattening the back, and did hone the bevel, but wow does it feel nice and cut a nice mortise. Plumb walls without a guide!

[@MANJITSINGH-ko2oi]

COOL rob again good advice.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Thanks for watching and commenting

[@mikestewart505]

I have the Wood River Butt Chisel and Bench Chisel sets, and both are okay. Didn't look very hard at the socket chisels, thinking they wouldn't be particularly better. Looking closer, I see the bevel edges are a significant improvement, but I bought a 1.5" Richter thinking I would never buy another set, but just add sizes and types I didn't already have, and maybe upgrade a couple of sizes I use most to L-N, IBC, or Veritas. Two days after getting the Narex, I ordered the remaining sizes. I love them! (Platonicly, but still...) I do like the idea of a socket chisel, and the bubinga handles on WR tools appeal to me a lot, in looks and feel. I also like how their butt chisels fit my hand. But the baseball bats on the Richters feel really good, too, especially on the larger sizes. I can't disagree with any of the flaws you found on the Richters. I haven't actually used them on a project, yet, and haven't done enough chopping to notice a problem with the thickness, but your point makes sense. Getting the backs perfect did take a good bit of work. Still extremely happy with them, though. I think my next project might be a nice ash box to keep them in.

[@JDDupuy]

I have all brands, LV, LN, WR , ST and Narex. Even some German ones with a fruit name. I'm too dam old to worry about feel. If it's sharp it goes in the line up. I guess I am a chisel hoarder. Last count was around 50. I stand back and smile knowing that I will never use them all in the years left ahead. Thanks Rob for your honest evaluation.

[@stevenvachon9745]

Just curious as to what brand you prefer, I'm guessing for different reasons than Rob's preference.

[@JDDupuy]

@@stevenvachon9745 Lie Nielsen then the new Narex Richters, WoodRiver and then sweetheart Stanleys. You quickly find out which ones hold an edge longer before needing a touch up. If I am going to spend several hours doing dovetails then I have at least 4 chisels of each size 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 ready to go. I hate stopping to sharpen. And I have a few chisels sharp, bevel and skew (left/right) just for paring. I have about 3 other brands and the hardness is key to my favorites. Feel comes in second.

[@da_gonozal6754]

You're probably talking about Kirschen, which is german for cherries

[@Dilettant_66]

A hardness of 57 - 62 HRC tells me everything I need to know about the Woodriver. No true premium manufacturer specifies such a tolerance for hardness. How does the manufacturer work if he can't get a consistent hardness. Forget the Woodriver, there is clearly a lack in the manufacturing process or they use different types of steel. No matter what it is, it is and remains a coincidence what you get. 57 HRC and you have the hardness of every cheap 5 $ chinese chisel, 62 HRC and you have a hardness as you can expect from a high-priced chisel. The design also does not help if the basic requirements are no good. Rob is an expert when it comes to woodworking. But he doesn't seem to know much about steel.

[@SebR-FR]

I was going to say something like this. Tolerance is way too large. And there is more or less steel to remove before getting the right hardness (Narex are known for that, it's caused by their temper process).

[@TheVimeo]

woodriver are made in china as i remember, same as juuma, Quangsheng or dictum.

[@Mark_Wood]

Thanks!

[@sueb4154]

Hi Rob, thank you for a very timely video. I've been hearing a lot about the Richter line and thought they were a higher end chisel. Now that I see the results in the softwood/harwood/softwood test, I know to keep saving for the IBC's. I think that both, the WR and the Narex suffered a great deal, during the edge retention test ... that surprised me.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

It was not a fail. And a quick sharpening would reestablish the edge, but you are right. Something has to give in a budget chisel as compared to a premium and its usually steel as thats the most expensive. Nite the neither of

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Neither of these are A2 steel, the best in my oppinon

[@stringsalive20]

I’ve not used either of these chisels. Ive got a good range of different makes, but the ones I use regularly are my LN and my Matsumura chisels. These chisels performed very well. Chopping in hardwood will have the same effect on any edge regardless of the brand/material. More important than the chisel you use is your ability to sharpen said chisel. You will do that a lot. I generally resharpen every 15-20 minutes of work. It takes less than a minute. If I work with pine, I generally use other chisels, which are ground at a shallower angle - I shoot for around 20, about the same as my paring chisels - and are dedicated for that work only. If I’m chopping anything in pine, it’s usually construction oriented, and I just use some beater chisels.

[@W4ldgeist]

@@RobCosmanWoodworking Calling the Narex Richter chisels "budget" is an insult and shows a clear bias. They are by all objective measurements high end chisels. Just not in price. And that is due to their location of manufacture. They come objectively with some of the best steels and treatments available on the market. Check out objective measurements and tests of Mr. Wright and others.

[@victoryak86]

@@W4ldgeist he’s a bit of a snob about this subject in my opinion. He was really not objective in this comparison. He only points out the negative aspect of the thinness of the Narex, which for many is a distinct positive for its ability to get into tight spots etc. also the second test on the pine after the hardwood, the WR chisel was quite obviously duller than the Narex but he called it a draw! This is just silly and a poor excuse for objectivity. When someone pointed out to him the advantages of a thinner blade, he said something like, “well I don’t really do paring, since I make my cuts right to the line with the saw,” or some such blather. Sorry to any Cosman loyalists, but this was a biased review. Guess he’s partial to the brand that he (thinks) he had input into.

[@larrychristensen5917]

Thank you for making the video. I have Stanley Sweet Heart chisels but want to replace them with IBC.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

We actually had a tough time deciding between doing a Narex or the Sweethearts

[@watermain48]

@@RobCosmanWoodworking I wish you would have tested the SWs as well.

[@Woodwork-Learner]

In the UK the price difference seems to a lot more than over there. The price for a woodriver is nearly 40% extra per chisel which adds up. Nice that you think the Narex aren't bad. Thank you for your thoughts.

[@wolfpackpete6408]

Stumpy Nubs made a great point about the price of chisels. No-one needs the entire set of high end chisels. Most woodworkers use either a ½" or ¾" chisel the majority of the time. So to save yourself a lot of money, just get 1 or 2 premium quality chisels in your favored size. And get cheaper sets for the larger variety of widths that will not be used often enough to justify the purchase cost of a whole premium set.

[@billwessels207]

Admittedly you have a vested interest in WoodRiver tools. Probably valid points. Years ago I used Footprint chisels which had a hardness equal to the Japanese chisels. Japanese chisels would typically chip out for a few sharpening sessions. until they were worn a bit past the extremely brittle as delivered edge. I have both. The Narex is about as hard as they were. The WoodRiver might be slightly less prone to chipping as it is not as hard. Both of them appear to be good choices.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Lots of folks don’t realize that as you take metal to Rc 62 and beyond the metal starts becoming brittle and prone to chipping. Good point

[@lwschallersr]

I noticed a patch on your apron from the 173rd ABN Bde, I served with them Oct23 1967- Oct 23, 1968.

[@monkeybuttdevinlane]

I got a wood river bench set when I started out. They're okay, but then I got some Narex speciality chisels, and they're my favorites. Those things cut like nothing I've ever seen.

[@FrankTheTank7575]

I have a set of Narex mortise chisels and I love them. And the Narex chisels do not require you to take out a second mortgage like Veritas or Lie Nielson do.

[@jerrystark3587]

@@FrankTheTank7575 Same here. I really like my Narex mortise chisels. They work beautifully.

[@intrepidshedman3309]

For fine paring I generally prefer the thinner chisels like the Narex. chopping, looks like the wood river is a bit ahead, but it might struggle getting into some tight corners

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

I rarely do paring. I believe in taking the joint right from the saw cut so you are correct I did not look at either chisel from a paring perspective

[@bigkiv47]

Good review Rob.... I'll still go with the Lie Nielsen chisels though.... like you say you only have to buy quality once. The cost will soon be forgotten, but you'll never tire of the quality from a good chisel. I've tried cheaper tools and in the end you regret buying them every time you pick them up.... I have never had a bad day with my lie nielsen tools :)

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Ln chisels are va very good premium chisel. Cant go wrong with them

[@Tritt-op1pe]

Do you use the HC or HR type shapton glass stones?

[@petertiffney4413]

hi rob on thickness of the chisels you as a furniture maker have to agree that a thin chisel is better for dovetail work ive been on the tools flr 45 years and all tools are a personal choice and lots of chisels are used buy hand only so i would buy both sets

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

For dovetails as long as the chisel has correct bevels, which both of these do (lots of bench chisels do not have the correct bevels) then they will work for dovetails. I do not find the very thin dovetail chisels, such as Blue Spruces, good for dovetails as they flex and vibrate too much for me. But thats my preference and what I want in a dovetail chisel. The Richter and WR were pretty much on par but if I had to choose one i would go with the thicker blade. My partner Luther doesn’t like socket chisels so he gives the edge to Richter....it comes down to personal choice between these two

[@GeeDeeBird]

I'm not willing to say Mr. Cosman is biased. But, has he ever preferred another product over one sold by Woodcraft? Just curious.

[@kylejohnson4662]

He prefers a lot of hand planes over Wood River’s

[@GeeDeeBird]

@@kylejohnson4662 "A lot" would quantify to more than three (two would be "a couple" and three would be "a few). Please advise me of four hand planes Rob said he preferred over their Woodcraft counterparts. To simplify things further, name three. If not three, can you name two. Beyond that, it's tough to consider any recommendations as authoritative when Mr. Cosman cryptically declines to even look at products by a premier Canadian toolmaker - Veritas.

[@kylejohnson4662]

@@GeeDeeBird you asked if Mr. Cosman ever preferred another product over one sold by Woodcraft. I provided an example. Just because your view of him was flawed, doesn’t mean you have to attack the person showing otherwise. That being said, “a lot” and “a few” are relative terms with no specific quantity attached to them. To be very pedantic, the only requirement for either to be used is to be in reference to multiples. “A few” is a relative term referring to a small number of things, while “a lot” is referring to a large number of things. Mr. Cosman typically prefers zero things over Woodcraft’s product. And since three is infinitely more than zero, I’d say in this case that three is in fact “a lot.”

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Woah. That response is air-tight.

[@GeeDeeBird]

@@RobCosmanWoodworking Yeah. So is a weasel's ass. I did note, however, that - among all bs sophistry - there was a concession that what I originally said is true. By the way, my observation was not intended to be a personal attack. I enjoy your videos. I'm a subscriber to your channel. I typically watch your reviews and always watch your demonstrations. I always give a thumbs up to show my appreciation. So when I question your impartiality, it's a criticism (that I believe is warranted), but it's not a personal attack. And, let's be honest, how can a tool comparison that doesn't include Veritas be credible? But I have nothing but kindness and respect in my heart when I point this out. I'm not a hater, but I also am not an apologist.

[@mikestewart505]

The first set of chisels I ever bought, in the early 70's were from Sears Craftsman. They were garbage. Wouldn't take a sharp edge at all. (Newer ones might be better, but I'll never know.) Since then. every chisel I have owned would take a sharp edge. After prepping my new Richters, I've spent some time tuning up my older chisels, and it has been interesting. All of them are scary sharp, with flat-enough backs. How well they hold their edges will undoubtedly vary, but as much as I like the Narex's, it doesn't take long using them to go from scary to adequate. I think ..probably in part because I spent a fair chunk of change on them... they will hold a working edge longer, but even my cheapest chisels (the Craftsmen are long gone) are pretty decent when they're sharp. Rob's right--how they feel is probably the main thing. My Wood River butt chisels were always okay, but with really flat backs and a really good edge, for some jobs they are little gems.

[@jerrystark3587]

Two decent chisels, on balance. Watching your video, it occurred to me that the Narex Richter chisel is shaped more like a paring chisel than a typical bench chisel, given it's longer handle, thinner blade, and harder steel. Whether this is a strength or weakness depends upon the application. Chopping would be a relative weakness of such a design, as you stated because of the thin blade. The standard Narex chisels are more like traditional bench chisels in these respects and they are clearly designed for chopping. The Wood River chisel is like the traditional Stanley Sweetheart socket bench chisel. Very nice to use. Their balance seems just about perfect to me. Great chisels. I have had good experiences with both brands -- and I love my Wood River bench planes. I agree with you completely about new chisels with a shiny polished back. In most cases, the edges have been rounded on a polishing wheel. This is a nuisance, at best, and certainly requires more work when it comes to flattening the chisel's back. These are points you made very well. I can't help but think this has more to do with marketing rather than woodworking craftsmanship, because a novice wood worker would tend to view a polished back as a feature, not a bug. (It's like many fishing lures. They are designed not to catch fish but to catch fishermen.) Thanks for the video.

[@realstaceylewis]

You seem to have a lot of knowledge. Maybe do some videos yourself. I’d subscribe.

[@jerrystark3587]

@@realstaceylewis You are very kind, but I am retired and I want to keep it that way. 😎 I enjoy having the time to make positive comments about other people's videos when they get me to thinking.

[@donesry2902]

Thanks Rob. I have been trying to decide what to do next. I have Narex, just regular, not the richter. The backs would make you crazy. I notice that you love the IBC chisels, so I am leaning that way. I am hoping to vacation up to Maine this summer, assuming the covid problem is past and try out some Lie Nielsen chisels. Do you have a walk in store? I don’t think you are that much further than Maine. I think that I only need a few chisels but I like the idea of trying it before buying it. I have bought a number of glue scrapers from Amazon, which is frustrating.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

We don’t have a showroom but you are welcome to come up the the shop and check us out and see the place

[@738polarbear]

He loves them because he sells them you fool

[@Brough_builds]

I can't comment on the woodriver chisels but I started with some narex premium and just recently bought 2 IBC chisels and the IBC are so much better in my opinion, just got to save up now to get some more as I have a fortune in shipping and import duty to pay with me being in the UK

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

This video was budget chisels. I absolutely love the IBC chisel. Once you use them you wont go back. They are a premium chisel

[@slcastner]

Ford v Chevy, isn't it? I have no Wood River chisels, but I have these: Sorby butts, Narex Richter, Lie-Nielsen mortise, Narex standard bench, Narex skew and Narex paring. All my work is hardwood, mostly ash, white oak, and black cherry cut and milled on my farm, plus local hard maple, walnut, hickory and beech. Toss the Narex standard, which I bought for price and barely used because of their thick blades. They were an Amazon impulse purchase. They do hold an edge. The Narex paring hold a good edge, but I find paring chisels awkward in general for dovetails. The Narex skews hold an edge and are handy for fine cleaning inside dovetails (I also love skew planes). I wouldn't use a skew for primary because of control. The LN mortises are great for their purpose (chopping) and hold an edge. The Sorby butts were my primary for dovetails until the Richters came along. Their mortise blades now seem thick, but they are handy little chisels and hold an edge. The Richters are God's gift to dovetailers because of their excellent hard steel, edge holding, thinness and lightness. Of course, I haven't used every make of chisel, so there may be better. I do not chop with the Richters; I pare dovetail walls sawn with a thin kerf Suizan Dozuki or a Highland Woodworking special bandsaw blade, and hogged with a Knew fret. I tap my Richters with a small brass Veritas mallet and a round ash mallet that I turned. I hold the chisel by the blade near the cutting edge when I tap with a mallet or pare. Vibration is not an issue. Flat back? The Richters arrived flat, flat. Working the entire back? A waste of time. Sellers teaches that the back just above the edge is all that matters. He's correct. Scratches on the back above the cutting edge? Come on! I use diamond plates exclusively and keep an 8,000 grit on my bench for constant edge work with chisels and plane blades, even the Ron Hocks, because sharpness is everything. I've read criticism of the leather washers on the Richters. Supposedly, they are shock absorbers. I suppose they are OK if you shock your chisels but I don't know why anybody would use a sharp, refined dovetail chisel for heavy chopping. So the leather is an aesthetic feature, a kind of trademark. Richters are nice. Ford or Chevy? Your choice.

[@victoryak86]

Well said! Couldn’t agree more, and I would rather go to you for advice on chisels than to this guy. How can he not even point out that the Narex is thinner for a reason?! It’s comparing apples and oranges. Either he’s being intentionally misleading to promote his favorite brand or he’s not as sharp as that Narex.

[@woodpurposedmechanic8299]

Yea kind of late to the party but here's my two cents worth. I have the Wood River set and love them. Worth every penny. But I also have a Stanley Sweetheart set as well. The Stanley's aren't as beefy as the Wood River and by the looks of your video not as beefy as the Nerex. They were a lot less expensive but the quality was very good. The real test is in the amount of work to flatten the back side of the blade. I use the Wood River for chopping and the Stanley for hand work. I prefer the light feel. Personally I prefer the socket type chisel though I have a set of the less expensive Nerex tang chisels for general work.

[@red58impala]

Nice video Rob. Thanks for the info. Would the Narex make a better paring chisel, for those jobs that need a thinner chisel, than a bench chisel? Also, if I were to buy just one chisel, what size would generally be the most useful? Top 3 most useful sizes? Thanks for the videos. I'll keep watching if you keep making them!

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Most useful? Probably a 1/4”. My first 3 chisels would probably be a 1/4, 1/2, and 1/8 or 3/4 depending on the kind of work I was doing. As for the pairing chisel idea, I’ve never been in a situation where I needed a thinner chisel than one of my regular bevel edge ones.

[@red58impala]

@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thanks for the reply and the insights. I really learn a lot from your videos.

[@botch3936]

You dinged the vibration in the Narex, because of the thinner blade. I'm wondering if its the leather washer that might make a difference? (I really have no idea). Thanks for the comp!

[@debandmike3380]

Have you tried the German two cherries chisels. They look like another affordable alternative.

[@nickbrokalakis]

Hello Rob! Been following for several years now and appreciate all of the content you provide to us. I'd love to re-create your sharpening station on the side of my upcoming bench build. I'd love to know what that sharpening station's base is, and what the stone holder is. It looks like its made with some kind of rubber polymer or something but I can't find anything like it online when searching. Thank you!!

[@beerymr]

The sharpening station details are included with Rob’s bench video...a nominal investment for the full video instruction on building his low-cost bench

[@sueb4154]

I believe the stone's holder is called simply, a "heavy holder" , which is also made by Shapton. They are available on Rob's website (RobCosman.com).

[@rexhansen7405]

The Shapton stone is resting on a Shapton heavy stone holder, which sits inside a Shapton sharpening pond.

[@chinthakawickramasinghe4879]

Can you do a clip on grinding ur custom made chisel that you use for half blind dovetail?

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

I will have Luther add that to the video list

[@daveweber1331]

Excellent info. Thanks, Rob & team! What I would enjoy is running the same test with the Narex's Ritcher (Hey, they market it as their best! ;-) ) and your IBC chisel. It would (well, it should!) give a clear picture of what one gets by spending the extra coin. :-)

[@briancarroll6803]

@@boriskogan7903 I was on the verge of pulling the trigger on a few IBC chisels but saw on Rob's Instagram that he was making custom handles for them and noted the comfort of the stock handle was the Achilles heel of the IBC. What do you make of them? And did you go with the maple or walnut? Thank you for taking the time.

[@glenpaul3606]

Where is a link to buy the Narex Richter mortise chisels????

[@5STARRating]

I really like this compilation but it is missing ( GREBSTK 1/4 inch Wood Chisel Sturdy) in my compilation the number is included. Nr1 Note that these products were ranked “best seller” at the time this article was written. Amazon’s Best Seller list is updated hourly, so for the most current list.

[@kperellie]

You should watch the very in-depth testing and review of about a dozen or so chisels from Wood By Right 2 on YouYube. I believe there are 3 videos in all. In his last video, though, he explains his findings and he even has a spreadsheet with perhaps all of the possible technical differences between them. The amount of hours and work he put into this is mind-boggling. You may be surprised by his findings.

[@stephenfarris8498]

I started to upgrade my chisels last spring with a 1/8 Wood River, bought from Rob, and a 1/4 and a 1/2, both from IBC. (Sorry, Rob, I bought from the factory which is 20 minutes drive from my home.) Two weeks ago I bought a 3/4 Narex Richter, based on the Wright review. I am not able to do woodworking in winter, so I can’t offer a comparison yet. But I will keep this review in mind as I use my Cosman purchased sharpening kit to work on the new chisel. FWIW, the IBC chisels were superb. The Wood River was easy to sharpen and comfortable in my hand but the blade fell off the handle a number of times until I learned to be more careful about it. But I would rather not have to think about that so I agree with Col. Shealy about a preference for a tang. Unless the Richter knocks my socks off, I think I may stick with IBC for further purchases. The quick change of the handles feature can also drop the cost of the IBC significantly nearer the cost of the cheaper tools. PS. Rob, I will be buying your workbench plans soon.

[@TankGunner84]

On Amazon the narex is $35 amd the wood river is $50. Just something I noticed. I don’t own either, I’d like to someday but for now I’ll stick with my yard sale antique chisels that work good enough for my level. Having said that; I don’t like how the Rockwell rating on the wood river is so wildly different. 57-63 (if I remember rite) is like a $7 Irwin chisel being around 57 to a top of the line IBC being over 60. That is a wild variation. Does wood river use different steel recipes in manufacturing? If so you may get a good one this time and a cheap on next time. I don’t understand how they can even make that claim, either it’s been tested and a Rockwell level and it’s “x” or it hasn’t. No test will bring back such a varying result and if so either get your money back or send a new set of samples!

[@S_Bellew]

57-63 means 57. 63 requires way higher steel quality, cryogenic treatment and much more $$$. No way they will give it to you if they are allowed to be at 57. Narex is minimum 62. It's a way higher end chisel. The video is misleading.

[@TankGunner84]

@@S_Bellew I’ve since gotten the narex reacher (maybe spelled wrong) and love them! They hold a great edge and sharpen very easily. If there are better out there I will likely never know because the narex are more than good enough for me. Thanks for the input though.

[@joekirk167]

i make all my tools and they work great.

[@nickstorm925]

Rob, great video, I get the idea of "a chisel just has to feel right in the hand", theory, or you won't want to use them. Slight off topic, what's your thoughts on older sweedish steel chisels, eg: E. A Berg?

[@bramvermaat1453]

I know this is an older question, and I'm not Rob. But here where I live, in the Netherlands you had this brand; Nooitgedagt. Once, they were the leading hand tool manufacturer here. They made everything, from chisels, planes, work benches, measuring equipment, and so on. Unfortunately, they sold the company years ago. Nooitgedagt is only a memory here now. But I'll get to my point. This company made all their tools from swedish berg steel. Especially the really old ones, are regarded as the best. I have some laying around from the 70's. This steel is amazing. No rust or corrosion after all the years. It is immensely hard. I always notice when sharpening other brands of tools, that this takes less time, and have to come back sooner. Swedish steel is the best I've used. And even though Nooitgedagt closed over 20 years ago, all wood workers here still regard this as the best. Go for it.

[@nickstorm925]

@@bramvermaat1453 I don't know how but in Sydney Australia where I'm from I found at an auction 6 berg's in box nearly new, only 2 chisels had been used. Then I found a brand new in box old stock, never touched 6 of the Dutch ones uou mentioned. Both I dated from the boxes were easily pre 70's

[@bramvermaat1453]

@@nickstorm925 This is truly unlikely. Try them. There great!!!

[@nickstorm925]

@@bramvermaat1453 they are in my workshop, 12 chisels, 2 boxes, purchased 6 months apart about 2 years ago, I have a photo but I don't know how to upload it.

[@r.b.fraunhofer1655]

I've only used cheap chisels like the yellow handled Lee Valley or blue Handled Marples, before getting some plain Narex mortise chisels. I tried flattening the latter on diamond plates, gave up and bought a Worksharp - steel is hard and not very flat. The Richter seemed flat out of the box for me. But Rob is correct, there is a narrow stripe on each side where the edge has been dubbed by polishing. So, to be perfect, the back will take a little work. But a very good value for what you get right out of the box.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

I agree with you

[@jimbo2629]

With a Worksharp and a buffing wheel you have no excuse for not having best sharpness for every job. My Sorbys need much more sharpening but I love the box handles. My Lubans keep their edge much longer but the handles have flats which I would prefer not to have. If you sharpen to several thousand you are down to a few hundred after a few hammer blows. 5 seconds in the Worksharp and you are back in business. I guess the same with your wetstone, just a bit longer.

[@tode5675]

Several decades ago I was going through the "What's the best chisel for my money?" debacle... Some of the brands were different, metallurgy was slightly different but one thing remained constant and that's that pre-war chisels will always appreciate in value. Besides collecting antiques is fun, especially if you actually use them. Even the new and improved are compared to the prime examples from the past... Unless you neeeeeed new-n-shiny maybe consider some of the well made antiques floating around.

[@alljunk4824]

I think that was true until maybe 5 years ago. But all this craze about "vintage" and "antique" has made buying "used" tools (because that is what they are) not worth it. Unless you think the 'fad' about buying used tools will continue for ever. Heck my 1990 vinyl turntable is now call a prized vintage!

[@tode5675]

@@alljunk4824 Of course you can spend your money as you see fit. I simply shared how I've chosen to spend mine. As far as "worth it" ......... My investment in hand tools has appreciated. I know woodworking, tools and lumber so that's what I invest in. Comparing hand wrought tools to Japanese electronics that are a few decades old is apples to oranges.

[@tomwisnieski4878]

Great video Rob. But for $15 dollars more I'm going with Lie Nielsen ,I buy one each month. I know that is not comparing apples to apples. In the long run i think it will be ok. Plus made in the USA. Shipping now a days is terrible slow everywhere. Saving up for a dovetail saw. Merry Christmas to you and the staff. TW

[@user-dq4ng7dm4w]

Nice review, I liked it, thanks.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Thanks for the comment

[@738polarbear]

The Narex Richter are much superior quality . The reason they are thinner is because they are NOT made for chopping but paring . I am surprised an experienced woodworker does not mention this . The regular Narex are much better suited for chopping . The Richter v the IBC is like a racehorse and a ploughorse

[@victoryak86]

You’re exactly correct! This guy is supposed to be the “guru” of this stuff and can’t even figure that out? This was a thinly veiled attempt to promote an inferior chisel because he may have had some remote input into the design of its handle! Laughable.

[@Rage-of-War]

I had no idea just how famous Rob Cosman was when I started watching his videos.... legendary teacher!!!

[@Rage-of-War]

Almost impossible to find chisels online right now.... Lie Nielson has nothing.....

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

I would not say legendary, thats a bit much

[@Rage-of-War]

@@RobCosmanWoodworking You're very well loved and respected in the woodworking world, I love seeing your name mentioned in so many videos. Cheers and Merry Christmas!!

[@ndothan]

Fixing to order a better set of chisels.. I'm not able to afford the really good ones, but I want to get the best that I can afford. Which would you recommend between the Woodriver (that you did in this video) and the Stanley Sweetheart? BTW, my order of Maple Syrup came in yesterday. We had pancakes for supper, just so we could try the Syrup lol

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

I would go with WR the backs sre much flatter than the sweethearts

[@jimwaters8050]

@@RobCosmanWoodworking of course you would.

[@awol5626]

Rob, you are a master and I enjoy your channel, what is your displeasure and Veritas with anything they manufacture to compare ?

[@nickbrokalakis]

I love my veritas chisels. I also prefer the PM-V11 steel to the CrV but I'm not Rob and don't have his years of expertise either.

[@SteveHiemstraAKAspeg]

Inquiring minds wish to know! Why not show some love to another Canadian company? Rob never seems to mention them. Perhaps a falling out from years ago?

[@nickbrokalakis]

@@SteveHiemstraAKAspeg or a paid partnership

[@beerymr]

@@SteveHiemstraAKAspeg Rob doesn’t comment on Veritas, full stop. He recently noted that legal agreements preclude his talking about Veritas.

[@ronin4711]

@@nickbrokalakis You don’t think that Rob will promote other than his own brand, do you?

[@mikeharbert5086]

Thanks Rob - like many others here, I watched James Wright's video. Good to know that it mostly comes down to "feel." I would imagine that thickness really comes down to application.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

In my opinion feel is the most important. Others disagree with me, but that’s Ok . The thickness comes into play both with application and the wood species you use

[@stevebosun7410]

@@RobCosmanWoodworking Sorry, but "WoodRiver" always seem to win out in the end. Might be just me, but hey ho.

[@jimbo2629]

I see that a few bashes with a mallet spoil the edge, so sharpening has to be frequent. I have a set of Sorby chisels with boxwood handles. They are the best to feel in use. I suspect they are not as hard as I would like. I recently acquired a set of Narex chisels. I don’t like the feel as much but they stay sharp longer. As long as the hardness is enough, I think many cheap chisels are good enough even for fine work. If you don’t like your handle and you have a lathe then you can make your own. Considering they will last a lifetime, I would choose a hardness above 60 and your most comfortable handle (or turn your own in a pleasant hardwood that won’t split).

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

All good points. I don’t want to buy a chisel I have to reshape the handle or do a lot of work too. Thats the manufacturers job, not mine. So Rc hardness can be deceptive. Above 62 and the metal becomes brittle. I should do a detailed video on explaining the factors of metal

[@thwwoodcraft1449]

You are leaving out the X-factor: China QC. I tried a set of those WR chisels last Spring. The 3/4" had a 3/4" long carbide formation buried in the back, which caused a huge hump in the factory grind. Diamond belts wouldn't even make a dent in it. Surrounding metal was depleted of alloying metals and soft as chalk. And that was the last in the set I'd flattened LOL. They went back to the store.

[@ronenborshevsky8144]

I guess many of the viewers have some chisels or chisel sets as I do. However, if I wish to buy just one single "high end" chisel (3/4' probably) which one would you recommend? (Lie Nielsen? Veritas?) Thanks!

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

IBC

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

If you want to spend the least and get a really great premium chisel, buy a Lie-Nielsen for $55. If you want to purchase the very best that money can buy, offering a few improvements over the LN, purchase an IBC for $85.

[@ronenborshevsky8144]

@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thank you very much!

[@kierannolan8859]

Question, Hi Rob, Can we apply the ''Ruler Trick'' with chisels,, love your videos

[@ilive4livemusic]

I can’t say for sure but from some of the other videos I’ve seen I think the ruler trick is only for plane blades as the backs of chisels need to be flat to enable cutting proper joints.

[@paulerickson2774]

Please don't use the "ruler" trick on chisels. Reserved for plane blades

[@kierannolan8859]

@@paulerickson2774 Hi Paul, maybe i should have said earlier i have a few chisels which have some pitting and was going to try to bring them back to life..

[@paulerickson2774]

@@kierannolan8859 I do understand the motivation, just know that you will be drastically changing how they function and everyone I know who has done it ends up regretting it. Doing it strategically knowing that eventually you will want to return to a flat back may work. If you turn out to be successful let me know.

[@bret_Lambky]

Question! When you mention the hardness is that what is advertised, or do you actually validate the hardness with your own verification?

[@CabinetFramingUK]

Haha when the label says 58-63HRC....that means the heat treating process it pretty questionable. Normally range is around 2 digits of hrc, not 5. If doesn't matter to be honest in this respect unless you're a full time hand tool wood worker

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Brent, we are taking the manufacturer at their word on Rockwell hardness. The teal test is how does the blade perform in wood, which is the test we did and how you will use your chisels

[@pag345]

Also just a note... the Narex say minimum 62 HRc

[@thefleetfarmer1815]

Rob and family! HELP I have a major problem, I’m building your awesome Cherry Chest of Drawers and CANNOT get my table saw blade aligned at 45 degrees for the miter...what other option do I have ??? No matter what I do the blade at 45 is way out of parallel with miter slots

[@farrierss1724]

If you can keep the blade parallel to fence and miter slot while holding the blade at 90 degrees to table maybe you could build a sled to hold boards at a 45. Really though you may need to look into that table saw if you are making fine furniture.

[@thatguythatdoesstuff7448]

I assume this is because you have a workbench, or contractor/hybrid style saw where the trunnions are mounted to the underside of the table. There is a trunnion shimming procedure that you have to undertake to correct for this. I had to do this on a Powermatic 63 Artisan saw. My blade was also quite out of parallel when beveled. The shimming procedure was a total PITA, but in the end, it corrected the issue. This type of issue, and all the compromises that come with these style of saws are the reason why cabinet saws are preferable for fine wood working. www.woodworkingtalk.com/threads/shimming-table-saw-trunions.46614/

[@chrisc4527]

I have two of the Narex coming as Christmas presents...yeah, no surprise, but better than novelty socks I don't want or need! I am in the UK and Wood River are not available, nor are IBC, and things like Lie Nielsen, Lee Valley, and Blue Spruce are 3 to 4 times the price of the Narex. Interesting about the stiffness, the Narex dimensions look comparable to the vintage Sorby and Marples chisels I have been using to date, but with better formed bevels. As such, I doubt I will notice the vibration, never having had a stiffer chisel for comparison. Thank you Rob, I know now not to buy any stiffer chisels so I do not become dissatisfied with what I already have! 😆

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

The Narex did very well in my test as I said. I think you will be happy

[@ricos1497]

I got some Ashley Isles chisels (UK), which I'm very happy with. Quite high end though, I think they'd be more than the Narex.

[@chrisc4527]

Rico S I have five Ashley Isles gouges and recently bought one of their 3mm chisels for fine dovetails. The gouges are nice, since I got my first over 20 years ago I have never considered a different make, but while the chisel works it has not struck me as particularly exciting

[@ricos1497]

@@chrisc4527 I think that's a fair summation! They take a nice edge I find, and I sharpen less than I would my Stanley ones. I also like the feel in the hand, although they are more lightweight than I'm used to. I do like the handles.

[@andrewbrimmer1797]

For tight precision spots the thin might be preferable

[@royfcjr]

I tried buying a plane blade set from IBC for my No 5 Stanley. Ever since then I have been getting 15-20 spam messages every day. Most come under the heading of being Amazon Gift Cards. Maybe they or someone who works in sales is a crook. Please Stop sending people there. The agent I spoke with said his name was Bryan or Brian, and I was told that with S&H the cost would be US $116.31. This happened on Nov 3, and I think you could protect those of us who follow you on KZbin here in the states. Also a five minute call was $12 and change. For wood chisels, I have been satisfied with a set I got from Narex. Inexpensive, but they hold an edge quite well.

[@Ham68229]

There's an old saying, "each their own", you have to use what works best for you. I think I'll still stay with my Narex chisels. So far, all my Narex chisels have all been flat on the backs. But, once you get them sharpened, it just comes down to "touch up" sharpening from that point on. To add, you did say that this if for a wood shop on a budget. I think a few commenters failed to see that point. Cheers :)

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

The Narex is a good chisel. So many commenters here forget I said they are both good and in my opinion the WoodRiver just barely won the review, they are both good chisels

[@andreicharpentierquesada4530]

there is nothng that i more dislike in a chisel than the back shape of the chisels like the Narex. The unique chisels that i have with a perfect 12k grit stone shine are my Lie Nielsen´s. Also i have a set of Two Cherrys set of chisels with a poor back flatening( i have tried to flatten them for a long time) and is just for that shape. i use the two cherrys just for removing material roughtly. Last touch is from the LN

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Two Cherries highly buff their chisels making flatting a real pain. LN are great chisels, very nice out of the box

[@JourneyNorthAK]

Narex is an old established company that pays a fair wage to its employees .. wood river is a rebranded Chinese company

[@billmccaffrey1977]

I bought a set of both Woodriver and Narex a few years back. The Woodriver chisels worked well for softwoods, but the knife edge rolled over very easy when working hardwoods. I use them as glue scrapers now. The Narex held an edge much better, but they are definitely budget chisels. For the price Narex was the better deal and if you worked mostly softwood they would be OK.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

They both performed excellent in softwood

[@3henry214]

Narex make 3 levels of bevel edge chisels: Narex, Narex Premium and their top of the line Narex Richter. By calling yours "budget", it sounds like you have the basic Narex, which are much different than the Richter that was in the review video.

[@bobby43057]

can you give a link to your sharpening stones please

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

robcosman.com/collections/sharpening

[@keats182]

I would be curious what the actual rockwell hardness is on each chisel. Sometimes on the cheaper chisels, they're ground too much and lose their heat treat. Once you sharpen them a few times you get past that. But I never really trust what the box says on a mass produced item. I only say all of this because it may affect edge retention on both chisels. The higher end chisels tend to have more quality control which is part of what you pay for.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

I agree, which is why how the chisel edge performs under real world conditions is more important that the Rc test to me

[@gav2759]

I have to say I was surprised by the edge degradation after that few chops in birch. As a confirmed user of Japanese chisels I'd expect better edge durability, but when I remember the relative cost, I guess I should.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Quality of metal is where most of the cost is

[@JDDupuy]

I have always been surprised also at how quick the edge is quickly degraded. Some take longer than others.

[@makermark67]

Wow, hard lean to the Wood River... who would have guessed?

[@bigkiv47]

I wouldn't say he leaned anywhere... just an honest job of comparing two chisels.... he only down graded the Narex for two good reasons... more work in preparing and a far thinner tool.... in the end the Woodriver is a better mid range chisel but he didn't really bag the Narex at all just assessed as he saw it..Now if you want to see ROb bag a piece of crap chisel see his review of the Narex Mortice chisel.... now that chisel is a pice of junk and deserved getting bagged by ROb have a gopod one mate

[@stevebosun7410]

@@bigkiv47 Ditto Mark Shelton's comment. Tool review or advert?

[@keats182]

He's open about his possible bias. It wasn't like he was faking the results. He did the same tests on both. It seems like the Narex brand is something people either love or hate.

[@Ham68229]

@@keats182 Rob unfortunately has never really liked Narex, at least not from all the video's I've watched where he had a few in hand.

[@keats182]

@@Ham68229 I've noticed that. There are a number of people I respect on both sides of the debate. At the end of the day we are the only ones that have to live with the items we buy. I keep a strop by me no matter which chisels I use.

[@robertbattle9011]

Comments help more than likes. KZbin is more likely to recommend videos with more commments. Be sure to leave a comment for the PHP

[@muttoj77]

Where does a high end chisel differ from a mid range chissel? Lie Nielsen chisels for example are made from A2 tool steel which is hardly a super steel. (Like Maxamet, cpm-4v, ZDP189, etc) What would be the best bench chisel money can buy at this moment?

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

The steel does make a hughe difference as does how the manufacturer treats the steel. No chisel maker I know of makes their own steel, they purchase the steel ( say A2) then they may do their own tempering and or cryo or they may farm that out too. The point is that even in a given steel type, all is not the same. When you get into the premium chisels you are really talking minor difference, typically in chisel design. I don’t think any of the typical premium chisels are functionally better than the other, it comes down to small design differences that fit your personal preference

[@rscripps60]

I believe they also make a line of Richter chisels with better steel.

[@victoryak86]

Another “unbiased” comparison brought to you by Rob Cosman. (This video sponsored by Wood River Tools)😂😂

[@GuitarGodgt]

Seems like it would be better to buy once cry once here and go with either IBC, Veritas, or Lie Nielsen and get a lifetime tool. The price difference between the woodriver and a lie nielsen is only $15 as well (3/8").

[@mikaelfischer8429]

Thanks Rob, this was interesting to watch and to hear your opinion on the two different chisel's. I did not want to grind my IBC chisels down to a 17 degree bevel for soft wood so i was thinking of purchasing something like the woodriver or Narex since it they would not be an every day chisel. Thanks Again. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍❤

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

I completely understand

[@maine420247]

Are the woodriver available withou the Bubinga handles? The world is being stripped of it's beautiful hardwoods to make items that don't really need the beautiful tropical species. Save it for the master woodworker and the luthiers! I use local hornbeam for my handles... I would buy a set of woodrivers today if not for the handles

[@wilhelmtaylor9863]

Rockwell 58-63 is awfully wide open, esp considering the Rockwell scale is not linear.

[@thefleetfarmer1815]

I have to say I’ve always thought u were a little biased in past videos, but u really did a great job with this one, I love my Narex Richters, totally agree about the thickness being a slight disadvantage...wish I had IBC

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Yes but you will pay double the money, but in my opinion they are worth it. If you are on a budget the Narex or WoodRiver are both good

[@paulwier7005]

So what country are the Woodrivers produced? China? You said Chech republic for the Narex

[@TheVimeo]

china. as dictum, Quangsheng, juuma and i guess others, same steel, same workers, different brand :)

[@brianrudd8704]

I have 3 Narex Richter Chisels which I bought about 5 weeks ago. They feel comfortable and work well for me as I have quite big hands. I looked at the Wood river socket chisels, but went for Narex as they were £10.00 cheaper per chisel. I enjoyed the video and from your tests there was not a great difference in either chisel. Thanks

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

As i said they are very comparable chisels

[@williamreymond2669]

10:28] My calibrated guesstimate between the light and dark patches of the scratch pattern of chisel back sides is actually on the order of a 1/10ths of thousands of and inch - or less. Looks big, but probably isn't. Just so you understand, in industry, the surface roughness of machining marks like what you just saw are typically measured on the scale of millionths of an inch: 16/millionths of an inch, 32/millionths of an inch, 64/millionths of an inch & etc. What you are seeing is not bad - as un-polished as they actually are. Actual flatness? a different question.

[@stevem268]

where are wood river tools made? you mentioned czech republic for narex

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

China

[@Pour-me-a-red]

Wood River, made in China, the one big reason to buy the Narex.

[@nickhildenbrandt4529]

Why?

[@W4ldgeist]

@@nickhildenbrandt4529 Because Narex pays a fair wage under humane conditions. Chinas workforce is close to slave labor. That should be a reason for any decent human being. Additionally Narex charges a fair price for a truly high quality tool, with a fair margin based on their own cost. WoodRiver charges a mid-range price with a HUGE margin. Want a comparison? Aldi Chisels. They are made from the same steel, to the same quality. They cost below 10 bucks for 4 of them. They still make money off that. That's how HUGE the margin of WoodRiver is.

[@joaoteixeira7814]

@@W4ldgeist You are totally right! Unfortunately we are (the world) responsible for developing them that way. I know what I'm saying, since I visited China on business. And, unfortunately here in Brazil we are being negatively affected due to unfair competition.

[@petrmaly9087]

​@@W4ldgeist I just wanted to say thanks for mentioning it. I live in Moravia and a father of a girl I used to date worked in NAREX factory. People in this region still use narex tools as it is of course cheaper locally and many are decades old and still work fine. When people working in the factory decide to go with the brand, it tells you a lot about the quality as well.

[@W4ldgeist]

@@petrmaly9087 Absolutely! It used to be like that for example for German car manufacturers. But nowadays most of them have so expensive cars, their own workforce can't afford, or won't afford them. Additionally they know the cheap way the cars try to introduce obsolescence and save 1 EUR production cost on a 40k car, multiplied by millions of cars sold makes them millions. From what I could gather Narex is not there, yet. As long as that is the case, pushing for the ethical choice is also a good economic choice. Ethics go first, then goes the quality. In the end the consumer is poorer in every level for his own greed.

[@egbluesuede1220]

are we comparing a bevel edge to a firming chisel?

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Negative, both are bevel edge chisels.

[@DorkAhoy]

The Narex is made in the Czech Republic and the WoodRiver is made where?

[@bellybutthole69]

china I'm pretty sure

[@CabinetFramingUK]

China. Which means nothing as some of the best tooling in the world is made there

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Its made in China

[@tomst9417]

@@CabinetFramingUK Yes, CCP has made it national policy to steal intellectual property rights and technology developed elsewhere to help fund their global expansionist ambitions. I don't buy anything from China.

[@Carpenter173]

I bought a set of the wood rivers There are fine chisels, but the handles are weak. i snap to handles off just by taking them out of my chisel holder

[@dkbuilds]

I have had the exact same problem with mine. I called up woodcraft and they are sending me new ones, but it's a real bummer to not be able to use my chisels while I wait for shipping.

[@Carpenter173]

I didn’t know that they will replace the chisel handles. wow, I bought mine almost a year ago

[@dkbuilds]

@@Carpenter173 Call up their tech support (during business hours): 1-800-535-4486

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

What part snapped?

[@dkbuilds]

@@RobCosmanWoodworking Right where the handle enters the socket. It's very strange since I was chopping straight down. Here's a pic: i.imgur.com/TokKIql.jpg

[@williamreymond2669]

So, the big unanswered question becomes: are there any real differences between 'tanged' and 'untanged' chisels - and why? And, the blade thickness, what is really the deal? A great deal of time was spent flattening and polishing those chisels, but precious little - none actually - comparing the effects of thick and thin chisel blades in their ability to access and easily cut difficult recesses - like dovetails for instance.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

You mean tanged and socket chisels. Yes, there are the obvious differences, socket has a removable handle, tanged does not. Which is better? That a personal preference decision. Obviously you never have to worry about the handle falling off on the tang, but that means it’s more awkward for both grinding the bevel and flattening the back. Socket chisels allow you the opportunity to change the handle if it gets dinged up or if you just want to change it up. As for the thickness, it’s irrelevant for dovetails because that’s where the “beveled-edge” comes in. I haven’t found a need for a thin chisel in all of my workings, especially when there is a noticeable flex that occurs during chopping. That’s why I would prefer the thicker chisel over a thin.