Best CNC under $1000 - 3030 Prover Max Review

Reviewing the Sainsmart Genmitsu 3030 Prover Max CNC machine. Putting it through various tests with wood and metal. Can a small machine really cut steel? Also showing the 4th axis in use.
Link to the Sainsmart 3030 Prover Max
shrsl.com/485w6
Link to the Sainsmart 4th axis
shrsl.com/4avfb
Low profile vice from FoxAlien
amzn.to/3PbxFGB
bit.ly/3wHkczH
00:00 Introduction
01:09 Closer look and specifications
04:17 Testing in soft and hard wood
05:11 Testing with Aluminium
05:57 Limit switch issue
06:22 Testing with brass
06:34 Testing with Steel
07:24 Trying out the 4th axis
08:39 Offline controller
09:36 Final thoughts
3D printable limit switch cover for the 3030
www.printables.com/model/720685-genmitsu-3030-prover-limit-switch-cover
If you want to become a patron for one to one help, early video access and quarterly giveaways then head to www.patreon.com/JamesDeanDesigns
If you want to help the channel but do not want to become a Patreon, you can contribute directly:
www.paypal.me/jamesdeandesigns

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

Link to the Sainsmart 3030 Prover Max shrsl.com/485w6 Link to the Sainsmart 4th axis shrsl.com/4avfb Low profile vice from FoxAlien amzn.to/3PbxFGB bit.ly/3wHkczH

[@History-Remastered]

Do you know what type of steel you milled?

[@velcrodreams178]

Hey James you make great videos ! Thanks for all that you do and happy New Year !

[@PavelPeikov]

WOW. This video is amazing and I am seriously making me consider to upgrade to this from my 3018 prover v2!

[@rlsimpso]

Thanks for the review. I ordered one last week to upgrade from the original 3020. The cut in steel was impressive.

[@nkcb996]

Did you cut steel with yours like 303 or 316L ?

[@rlsimpso]

@@nkcb996 I have only cut 6061 aluminum so far running carbide endmills in a router. I suspect it would do well in mild steel but stainless may be too hard. An issue with running a router is the one I have is air cooled and it blows coolant away. I have not used to spindle motor it ships with but it is same as the 3020 I had and underpowered in aluminum so would probably not handle any steel well.

[@techchatwillie789]

Thanks for that great and helpful review and testing of the machine. I was aware of the fact, that a 300W Spindle with a simple bearing of the spindle shafts has limited capabilities. But I'm impressed that the machine itself is very sturdy an precise. The hint to problems with conductive chips affecting the limit switches is very helpful. Not to imagine you have a long job running on the machine an getting a limit switch alarm that spoils your stock. I won't be cutting steel but now can be sure the CNC manages to cut aluminum with ease.

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

Yes the limit switch thing was a bit annoying but equally a fairly quick fix even if that is simply taping it up

[@cooper67]

Based on your review, just picked one up! My first CNC. Hope that you make some more videos on setup, some projects etc. Interested in milling some brass leather embossing stamps. Thanks!

[@mikemike6096]

Thanks James!

[@Festivejelly]

Wow impressed it was cutting steel. The makita router really is capable! I think with a little bit of DIY fog buster on there it would be fine.

[@SwapPartLLC]

I just finished putting mine together about an hour ago. Haven't used it yet. I just tried homing it, and turned the spindle on. It's late here and I have neighbors, so that's the most I can do for now. I mainly wanted it for PCB prototyping. I might try 3D printing covers for the limit switches. I have a spool of TPU filament that might be good for it.

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

There are already some design by someone I think, just can't remember what platform so maybe search yeggi. Alternatively a bit of tape over them will help as well. Hope you enjoy it

[@SwapPartLLC]

@@JamesDeanDesigns I saw a design someone had made a couple days ago somewhere. Tape is something I hadn't thought of though. I have a million projects in mind, if only I could make time.

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

@@SwapPartLLC I feel your pain. Time is my biggest restriction.

[@21291dim]

Thank you for this great video! Comparing to your other video "Budget CNC which cuts metal? FoxAlien Masuter Pro CNC Review", which one would you recommend for brass (it will be my first buy) ? I will definitely put a Makita router on it, so excluding the spindle capability ?

[@Ccels5765]

That 4th axis rotary attachment blew my mind. Didn’t know that was possible lol

[@cpowerdesign]

I bought a 3018 Prover earlier this year. I've made a few things with it. I upgraded to the longer travel, upgraded the spindle, ordered different collets, 3d printed a collet holder that mounts to the machine, ordered the 4th axis and laser module. Now it is collecting dust currently. School got a lot harder and things around the house needed my attention when I wasn't focused on school. Maybe christmas break I can play with it somemore.

[@ing.eduardomunizrodriguez3554]

Great review!! do you think this is better than the 4040? im planning to do some aluminum, or what about this one vs the Fox Alien Masuter pro? thanks!

[@richardtepas4832]

nice review, i just changed from pro max 3020 v1 to v2 with extension kit. Did have same problem with aluminium chips triggering errors. I disconnected the endstops. Strange that manufacturer did not noticed or addressed this. What bits do you use for metal? a they a-class (expensive) ones? I have to go super slow and shallow with my 300W. No problem, job just takes langer. If i would go 1mm in aluminium i guess i would get the feeling that machines explodes. For me a save depth is 0.2mm. Thanks!

[@XavierP56]

Hi. How do you protect the aluminium bed ? There is no supplied spoilboard ? Just a cut a MDF 30x30cm piece of wood and use double-side tape to the aluminium bed ? Thanks !

[@Jerry-Mesa]

Hello James, I enjoyed your video as well as the one you did in the Sainsmart 6050. I’m new to the CNC environment and don’t know enough about the technical terms but wondered what the differences are between this and the Sainsmart 6050 other than work size. Thank you

[@mohammadsaeed8433]

Hi, i was considering a cnc mainly to engrave blades which im gonna start making this year, so, on utube checking reviews and you won👏! With this one, mostly due to the demo with steel .saving up right now so cupl of months and i'll be in touch for some tips. Great vid, just subscribed. your

[@user-we7do9vh4p]

Great video! It would be appreciated if you could do a video putting this CNC machine to a more thorough test cutting metals especially steel. would really like to know what it can do in sustained cuts and where its limits are given whatever make/model of endmills you are using.

[@chrisashdown1484]

Wow!!! that was impressive, Makes you wonder what 2024 will bring to the market yet along 2025. first class presentation aging well done

[@techchatwillie789]

Just saw, the Makita router does not have a grounded plug, so the router housing is not grounded too. The Z-Probe works fine with the Makita router installed. For my grounded Proxxon spindle I'll try either a mechanical switch or a kind of optocoupler to avoid interferences with the ground connection.

[@techchatwillie789]

Problems with Z-Probe and upgraded spindle: Hello James after making my first cuts with the 3030 Prover Max CNC I am experiencing the following problem with the Z-Probe that came with the machine. With the 300W spindle running wit the internal 48VDC everything works fine. When I use a spindle that works with mains (I use the Proxxon UF/E type) voltage the Z-Axis does not move down when performing a tool measurement. It always retracts so it seems that the control is receiving a signal that the probe is touched even it the bit is far away from the plate of the Z-Probe. After some research I found out that this problem only occurs if the spindle is connected to the mains socket. It does not matter if it's switched on or off. If I unplug the spindle or disconnect the crocodile clamp from the bit the Z-Probe sequence is running as it should. So I assume the cause is the ground wire connection to the socket that seems to disturb the Z-Probe sensor unit. I think the Makita router also is grounded to the mains socket and if so it's likely the problem also arises to other users too. Do you or anyone else have experienced this odd behavior of the Z-Probing function? Does anyone have a solution yet?

[@nsrstevenson]

Thank you James for the great work, have you got a chance to look at the CNC Router Machine 4030-Evo Ultra ! I am interested in your valuable views on both the machines (comparison)

[@cmtetaboaco]

Nice, the 4040 Pro does as well with metals? Thanks

[@samrix5793]

Nice video!

[@ralfdiesogge3344]

Can you make a upgrade tutorial for the 3030 Pro?

[@t77chevy]

Designed a cover for the y axis limit switches to stop the false triggers while machining metals , stl is printables

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

Thanks Tommy, I have added a link to this in the description for the video

[@spudnickuk]

Whatca great little machine And some honest feed back And for the price Well it shines for the buck

[@williamgray884]

James great videos thinking about buying the 3030 but would like to see a video of the complete process (design to machine). The conversation of offline controller vs PC is a little confusing. Thanks

[@awatts5928]

Hey James, What is the maximum thick of a piece of hardwood that the 3030 can cut through? Like the videos and would be interested in seeing material tests for feedrates and thickness on the 3030 when you've got nothing better to do.

[@azazelakira12]

2 questions. What is the clamp you are using to hold the aluminium? I need to do a job where I do mill on the 2 sides of the aluminium and then in the center of that cut, do you think this machine is capable of it?

[@Festivejelly]

Sorry for the comment spam but what RPM's were you using on the makita router?

[@Slotcartires]

James .... Can these machines be ordered without the spindle motor? I would like to run a .8KW 62mm diameter water cooled spindle. The available spindles are not for me.

[@SamAgro2024]

I am new to CNCc and am wondering if a cheap CNC mill can be used as an automatic punching machine. i have a workpiece with dozens of precisely placed punch locations. Normally I use a sharpened needle to manually punch holes as its a sheet of soft material. My questions are: 1) whether i can connect this sharp needle to the CNC and simply use it as a puncher instead of a drill. 2) my work area is about 4 inches square. The hole sizes are relatively small approx 1mm. Is there a way to manually tell the cnc every time i place a new workpiece what the rotation of my workpiece is. Or give it multiple reference points instead of just one (xy 00) so it knows what the rotation of workpiece is around the z axis. 3) I am not sure if the cnc can exert a certain force downward so the needle can punch hole all the way. if not, icould it be possible to connect an automatic spring loaded puncher so that the spindle just has to come down and the rest will happen by the impact of the spring. Thank you.

[@cooper67]

thanks! does it actually come and an air assist also, or did you have to supply the air pump? looks like genmitsu has a makita clone 1.5 router as option also. any thoughts?

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

No air pump comes with this. Yes, Genmitsu now have a trim router for machines. I suspect it will be good but I have not actually tested one yet so I can't really comment

[@PandorusFightStick]

i am wondering if i could cut my acrylic / carbon fibre arcade plates to 300/295mm in length, cant go any smaller than that, or will that be to big?

[@Mainswitch55]

Hi machinist here, thanks for the video! I guess the offline controller does make much sense imho. If your laptop/tablet/PC is going power saving mode... The work is finished then, even if it´s not. I think that makes it up for a offline controller. I also would apply a apc backup if possible, so you may not ruin a workpiece if you´re out of power for a few minutes. But maybe my last point is overkill for the home user. Kind regards from Austria Christian

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

Always good to have a backup but possibly depends where you live. Here in the UK our supply is pretty consistent for most of the country, in fact I can't remember the last outage we had.... probably will happen on my next job now😆

[@ChrisHarmon1]

Any chance we can get high res photos of the side walls on 6061 and the steel?

[@utrost75]

Hi @JamesDeanDesigns, I assume the information you gave for all the different cuts (e.g. the bowl bit 3/4 inch, Step down 2mm, Step over 3mm, feed 1800mm) are for the Makita, right? Do you happen to still remeber the Makita Settings (power Level/RPM)?

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

Yes they will be for the Makita. I generally run mine quite low so likely would have been number 2 or 3 at the most.

[@dougparadis]

James, Great review. I have 2 questions: 1. When you upgraded to the router did you just disconnect the old spindle's power box? 2. How did you handle E-stop function with the router upgrade? Please do an upgrade to router video on this machine.

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

Hi, No I didnt disconnect the old spindle, I just tucked the wires out of the way. The e-stop would still work in terms of the machine movement shutting down but the only way to get it to shut the router down as well would be connecting the router via an SSR relay device. This is fairly easy to do and I have a video on it. It basically means the router will start and stop automatically without you needed to manually turn it on/off

[@acanadianwoodworker]

When you swap out the spindle for a Makita palm router - does anything power/control the Makita router? Or do you just simply plug it in separately and turn it on when its time to carve?

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

You can do it either way. In this scenario I used it manually but I've got a few videos showing you how to have it run automatically. One way is wiring in an SSR relay yourself, or alternatively you can buy a premade device like this kzbin.info/www/bejne/rHayiWt8bcmepJI

[@8bits955]

Hi, just out of interest where did you get that alu vise clamp from

[@patriotic_salt]

put plexi glass plastic around the spindle or around the edge of the table to contain the chips to the table

[@tommc49]

Newbie question: How do you get the Gcode from the design software to an offline controller? What is you preferred design software and will it run on a Mac? Thanks for a reply.

[@cmtetaboaco]

SD card

[@alandimery3379]

Thanks for the video. Could you tell me please, would this be better than upgrading the CNC 3020 Pro MAX V2 to a 3040 with the extension kit? And same question for the CNC 3040 machine please?

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

Definitely better than an upgraded 3020 Pro Max. When you say CNC 3040, I am guessing you mean the ProverXL 4030? Debatable there depend on what you want. The 3030 Prover Max is going to be more accurate but the ProverXL 4030 is more powerful and has extension kit available so you can expand.

[@alandimery3379]

@@JamesDeanDesigns thank you for your quick response. My interest has been renewed because of BF. I am also looking at the Ooznest workbee + machine. Do you know of these and how they compare with the Sainsmart machines? Thanks.

[@TRIBEKNIVES]

Would you think that beefing up the stepper motors and using the makita router would be enough to consistently do small 1-2mm cuts on steel?

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

I'd like to think so but a router probably isn't the best for consistently cutting steel. I imagine a spindle VFD setup would be better

[@kindcarver]

This is great! I’m totally new to this so apologies for this question: can this machine cut the art that looks like a 3D fox that you’ve featured in your review for Vasto?

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

Yes it can. Those are 3d relief carvings and this machine can do those as well 👍

[@kindcarver]

@@JamesDeanDesigns thanks so much! Would you recommend this one over Vasto, or a 4030 which is the same price currently on Amazon?

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

@maxkunakhovich8919 it depends on what you want overall. I would say the 3030 is more precise, the 4030 is stronger and the vasto is a bit of both so overall by choice the vasto is what I'd go for. And I think it still has 20% off www.foxalien.com/products/cnc-router-machine-vasto-xl?sca_ref=725103.t6qfXeHAnx

[@tyronelenoury4838]

Hi James I currently have a Genmitsu 3018 and am looking to upgrade to a Genmitsu 3040 or 4040, which is the better machine, I mainly work with wood.

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

Hi, There is no 3040 as such. The extended 3018 is considered a 3040, but I suspect you mean the ProverXL 4030 maybe? If so then then the ProverXL 4030 is a better machine than the 4040 Pro. If its a choice of the 4040 Pro or this machine in the video, then the 3030 Prover Max in the video

[@mistold]

So torn not knowing which to get, this one or the 4030 pro v2? Would be hard woods, copper, acrylic and other similar things.

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

Size...the ProverXL V2. Precision...the 3030. If it wasn't for the copper I'd have definitely said the 4030 but the 3030 is better for metal 😕

[@mistold]

@@JamesDeanDesigns thanks! I think I'm go8ng for the 3o30 with makita router

[@Reviews-Tidbits]

Better than fox alien Masuter pro?

[@dosomethingdoanything]

I'm new to CNC, but curious... what is the maximum size of material that could be worked? I know they advertise a working area, but is that working area considered usable? Or is actual tool length going to take up some of that working area?

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

The X and Y measurements are fully useable, it's the Z height that's tricky as you have to allow for safe travel so whilst this has an 80mm z travel I would say max cutting height is 70-75. As the spindle is in a clamp you can adjust the height of that according the the length of bit you are using to some degree

[@dosomethingdoanything]

@@JamesDeanDesigns Thanks for explaining it to me, as I was definitely having problems understanding marketing vs reality.

[@Reestie123]

Hi James, thank you for all the time and effort you put into your reviews and videos. They are always great. I have a question that might (hopefully) benefit others too. If I was solely interested in precision and accuracy, and wanted to stay with Sainsmart/Genmitsu (great support/network), which machine would I choose? I've had the 4030v1 for a few years now and just can't achieve the fine repeatable accuracy I'm after. Would this 3030 with linear rails, be more accurate than the 4030v2 for instance? I'd really appreciate your opinion. Cheers.

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

Yes the 3030 should be more accurate and precise in theory as there is minimal flex on any of the axis. Arguably the weakest part that is likely to flex would be the shaft on the standard spindle as its only an ER11 collet.

[@Reestie123]

Awesome, thanks for replying. I actually hadn't thought of the possible flex in an ER11 collett, but that wouldn't be an issue as I would use a Makita anyway. Thanks again for all the work you put into your reviews and videos, they are always interesting and straightforward! Cheers.

[@TRIBEKNIVES]

I just bought this based on your recommendation. Can I ask what vice you are using to hold the steel and brass?

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

It is this one - probably cheaper directly off amazon Low profile vice from FoxAlien amzn.to/3PbxFGB bit.ly/3wHkczH

[@TRIBEKNIVES]

Awesome! Thank you! That’s the one I thought it was and picked one up last night. Thanks for the awesome video!

[@shinsoku9128]

did the cnc cut aluminium and brass without the router upgrade, or did you just test it with the router upgrade? and which grade of steel did you test the cnc with? I want to get one, but I live in an apartment and don't have a shop. I would be very grateful if you left some dust collecting advice, where to get an enclosure for noise reduction and chip/dust collection (as I don't really have the tools to build one, or a shop where i can make a mess). thank you in advance :). any other advice to help me get started on this journey is very welcome :)

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

The stock spindle will cut aluminium and brass but at slower/shallower rate. I do show it cutting aluminium earlier on I believe. The steel is just mild steel, don't know exactly what grade. Enclosures do help cut down the noise. But dust extraction (typically a vacuum) will add noise. I often just let my machined run in the enclosure and clean up at the end

[@shinsoku9128]

@@JamesDeanDesigns thank you for taking the time to answer. In terms of enclosure, how can i build a dust proof, sound dampening enclosure, without cutting wood? Do I use aluminium extrusions? What other materials would I use and how would I have to use them? Thanks in advance :)

[@Festivejelly]

I almost wish I didnt get the proverXL v2 and got this little one instead.

[@Festivejelly]

Then only thing I dont like is that the table moves instead of the gantry.

[@umxmarky]

just ordered one, one quick question what is the vice you are using?

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

Think you emailed but I'll reply here to be safe. Its the FoxAlien low profile vice amzn.to/470yJU6 bit.ly/40edGeu

[@umxmarky]

@@JamesDeanDesigns yeah I did thanks for getting back to me

[@silverdragonheart]

I'm guessing that the steel used was mild not stainless judging by the look of it. It would have been nice to see some results from the original spindle that came with the machine since not everyone would be planning or could necessarily afford to upgrading straight away to the Makita router and much of what was achieved was down to the Makita routers power, the general rigidity of the frame not withstanding, which is not what you get in the box. I can't help thinking that out of the box it's might not be the best CNC for under $1000, maybe do a small add on piece showing the capabilities of the CNC with the original spindle.

[@cmtetaboaco]

Rusted stainless steel?

[@silverdragonheart]

@cmtetaboaco That's why I said mid and NOT stainless, I guess you must have misread.

[@marcmillecam613]

This CNC in a nice tool but has also some problems. In Candle, the Height map is not working.

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

Candle isn't anything to do with Sainsmart or this machine, it's just one of the free pieces of software that can be used with it. However Candle hasn't really been developed for some time now so I would suggest switching over to UGS which is constantly being improved and has a height map feature

[@mikec8101]

How does it compare to the foxalien woodmads 3020?

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

Larger work area, more powerful stepper motors and a little more going in for things like dust guards on the X axis so this wins but equally does cost more

[@gihadmurad]

@@JamesDeanDesigns Are the steppers actually more powerful? It seems that they are both NEMA17, but I can't find the exact size/specs on the foxalien woodmads 3020

[@don5nake]

Which other CNC mills under $1000 did you evaluate to reach this conclusion?

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

Physically about 6 or 7 so far and others I based on the specs of the machines. Look at my channel if you want the full list

[@srknyxl]

Can it do 4 axis simultaneous machining?

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

In theory, yes it should be able to as as it is programed as X,Y,Z and A

[@patrickmckowen2999]

👍

[@XavierP56]

Hi. I did screw-up my 3030Prover. Now the probe works backward... Can some one can do $$ in UGS and send the results ? Thanks.

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

Is it just the probe is backwards and everything else is OK? If so then just add a - before the number and it will move down instead of up

[@XavierP56]

@@JamesDeanDesigns I did screw-up the settings. The probe button on Offline control goes backward. I have fixed with $3=3 and $23=3 but I'd really appreciate if someone can provide me with all settings. Please do $$ in UGS and share the results. Many thanks !

[@XavierP56]

I probably messed things when using OpenBuilder. Still learning....

[@JohnChrysostom101]

That gantry cross piece looks like cheap hollow aluminum that will flex

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

Aluminium reinforced with two steel linear rails over a fairly short length. Would take a fair bit of pressure to flex it

[@JDMeister]

Mine after tax, delivery and weird credit card charge was past 1000€.

[@ManiacRacing]

My antivirus software flagged the link to the machine as potential malware. Just thought you might want to know.

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

Thats OK. I've just checked on a few devices and not getting that. I can assure you its a safe link but thank you for letting me know, I'll keep an eye on them 👍

[@alek002]

No, it's not malware. It flagged the program likely due to obfuscated code in the program.

[@BioMusing]

Is it a true 4 axis or 3 +1?

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

Not 100% sure what you mean but to my knowledge its a true 4th axis, ran as an A axis

[@BioMusing]

It's easier to explain with 3 axis. With 2+1 if you want to bore a whole it takes z to some depth then cuts the circle then z goes down again it cuts a circle so on until it gets to depth. This is what a lot of FDM 3d printers run as. True 3 would cut a helical path down the hole (all 3 axis moving at once). So 3+1 it would index a (say 90 degrees or watever) then cut x y and z, then index and repeat. True 4 all 4 move at the same time. It's faster, can get some geometry the other can't, but it's very demanding on the machines computer (and on the cam programming it too)

[@ljubomirculibrk4097]

Just get a toy ball, cut it in half and glue ower end swich.

[@marcmillecam613]

The Z-probe delivered with this tool is a toy. The used connector is very fragile and does not make always a good contact, what is dangerous to perform Z-probing.

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

The Z probe itself has been used a few times now on different models. I'm not 100% sure why they went with the jack connector approach on this one though, but I found as long as I made sure it was pushed all the way in until it clicked, I worked fine both with the offline controller and in UGS

[@TomTRobot]

You kinda copped-out on explaining why the axis are better by saying things like "Now, every axis is running on HG15 linear rails. And if you're not familiar with the terminology, basically what that means is just everything is very supported and solid." That's just marketing speak. Saying "what" is not a replacement for "how" or "why" that's the case. Even a newbie should understand it if you took the time to say "A cheap 3018 uses a pair of 10 mm rods to support the head and another pair for the bed that are prone to flex under loads. While the Genmitsu uses 15mm HG15 rails, which have more than 2.5 times the material than a 10mm rod making the unit much less prone to flexing and enabling more precision in use." Same type of comment about using ball screws versus plain lead screws. It just fell short. Demonstrating performance is also great, but nothing to really show overall why a cheaper machine wouldn't do just as well.

[@PiefacePete46]

Wise move not continuing to cut deeper into the steel... all you would establish is how far is one step too far. It would have been similar to a young mechanic's method for torquing down a nut: keep tightening until it goes soft, then back off one quarter turn! 😮

[@Reviews-Tidbits]

To small for 1k

[@jamesbarratt593]

Anyone that mentions subscribe and how to do that they instantly get me clicking away from their video. Its just as annoying as the cookies message on every website. See ya

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

Well my 54k subscribers and nearly 5M views to your 2k subscribers and 27k views would suggest I'm doing something right so I'll be sure not to take your KZbin advice...BYE :)

[@axelSixtySix]

Alright, I'm genuinely a bit irritated now. This is absolutely not metal milling. Seriously, it's producing dust, not chips, and the cut quality is disappointing. This isn't milling; it's more like grinding. Let me pose this question: how long do you honestly think this machine will last if you grind steel all day? I get it, technically you can cut a C-beam with a Dremel, but it's nowhere near the right tool for the job. I find these kinds of claims quite dubious; it gives the false impression that the machine is comparable to a proper metal milling machine that costs ten times as much. There's a responsibility behind clickbait or commercial declarations.

[@ChuckThree]

Caveat Emptor my dude. You are expecting entirely too much from these Chinese company’s that manufacture products to a price point, not to capability and longevity.

[@axelSixtySix]

​@@ChuckThree I'm practically a machine-whisperer since 1996, understanding the ins and outs and the hefty price tags. Yet, in the social media jungle, every Tom, Dick, and Harry claims their machines are metal-cutting superheroes. Consider this your friendly PSA to unveil the real truth - these champs excel in woodworking and plastic wizardry, not metal mayhem.

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

I state this is a CNC capable of cutting metal which I prove it does. At no point do I say this is better or equal to a metal milling machine - lets not twist what I say for your argument. I can't remember if I say it in this video but I have done in other, I say I am not an expert in working with metal. In fact I repeatedly say throughout the course of my videos that I still consider myself to be a beginner and learning. I'm saying this machine is ideal for those on a budget wanting to perhaps to a bit of wood and metal

[@axelSixtySix]

​@@JamesDeanDesigns Firstly, let me express my appreciation for your videos and the effort you invest in them. I understand these machines are often provided for free in exchange for a positive presentation, but it's crucial to establish some boundaries to safeguard your reputation. Honesty is key, especially in conveying accurate messages on both content and thumbnails. I recognize that you might not be familiar with the intricate requirements of metal milling, and that's perfectly fine. However, it's important to clarify that the lightweight machine equipped with a wood router showcased in your video lacks the essential mechanical components for metal milling. Specifically, it lacks a spindle with sufficient torque at low speeds and heavy-duty transmission, guides, and structure-attributes vital for metal milling. The implications for an enthusiastic viewer led to believe this machine can handle all aspects of car/motorbike mods are substantial. Firstly, achieving proper milling depth and RPM becomes an impossible challenge. Secondly, processing technical materials proves more difficult than working with low-density steel commonly used in construction. Investing in mist cooling for a woodworking machine, as implied, can lead to unnecessary expenses and added complications. Worse still, the guides and transmission will inevitably deteriorate over time due to the inability to withstand the forces involved in metal milling. I urge you to exercise caution in future presentations. The substantial cost and weight difference of dedicated metal milling machines is not merely for aesthetics; it serves a specific purpose and architectural design integral to effective metal milling. Sure, you can patiently cut a metal beam with a Dremel, but is it a brilliant idea? It's like asking your Dremel to perform superhero feats-it might give it an identity crisis, and let's face it, it'll probably retire before completing its metal-cutting bucket list! Kind regards.😉

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

@axelSixtySix some are provided free, some are paid for 100% some are partially paid for. But that doesn't make a difference, I have a review policy in place that has to be agreed to which gives me the right to say what I want including highlighting flaws or issues. And anyone who has followed me for a while will remember me calling xTool out for offering a machine but saying it had to be a positive review - and so I refused and instead made a video about what they tried to do in manipulating the market. When I realised Sainsmart were overselling the rating of their lasers, again I had no issues highlighting that in a video. You have narrative that you have made up to try and support your arguments, for example do I say this is suitable to machine car or engine parts - no I do not. Why would I say that when I have never machined a part like that in my life. You have you your thoughts and options, which your entitled to, but the bottom line is I ran a series of tests and showed the results in the video. I dont lie, I'm not making false promises, what you see is what you get.

[@TRIBEKNIVES]

Ok I got my genmitsu 3030 prover max all set up with the makita router and in my shop. I was sure to email Sainsmart and let them know your review is what got me to buy it!!! One BIG QUESTION though, did you tap the router into the spindle power that’s sitting on top of the Z Axis or just use your own power source and manually adjust speed and power on/off when your using it? Big thank you! @sainsmart

[@JamesDeanDesigns]

Excellent!!! Speed of the router is always manually controlled but you can have it turn on automatically. You have 2 choice. You can either wire an SSR in yourself (not difficult I promise) or buy a smart switch which is basically the same thing but the hard work done for you. First video below is the SSR, second video is the smart switch kzbin.info/www/bejne/amqZo3ZnobuBbJo kzbin.info/www/bejne/rHayiWt8bcmepJI

[@nymolabs]

Hi, we have been following your KZbin channel and are impressed by your professionalism and creativity. We really enjoyed your unboxing video. NymoLabs is a new CNC brand and we hope to establish a cooperative relationship with you. Our channel has information about our machines. We hope to communicate with you further.

[@Smugly_Watching_Society_Burn]

This really calls for more investigation in mild steel… It made that pass so easily!