BEST Electrical Wire Connector? Wago, Wire Nut, Ideal In-Sure, Lever Nut

[@electronicsNmore]

There are MANY viral videos on KZbin that have made claims about Wire Nuts, Wagos, and others. Sadly, very few(if any), have performed the tests shown in this video for the most popular residential conductor type, solid copper wire. Wondering how secure a solid copper or stranded wire is inside the lever and push-in nut types? Watch my other video below. Thank you! kzbin.info/www/bejne/l5e2kpxjm7Z8oMk

[@realdevbro447]

In india we don't have solid cu wires. It's all class 5 wires used for wiring.

[@illestofdemall13]

You can also use a big red or blue wire nut if you need to join more wires, and you can twist them with lineman's pliers, first. I am sure you know that, but just for any one else.

[@BajanAlan]

@@realdevbro447 I thought solid copper wire was dangerous!

[@jeffscarff1655]

I also have seen and heard of the virtues of the Wago connector. This gives me pause. Thank you.

[@garagekeys]

@@BajanAlan it is but I heard the black pipe is the most dangerous

[@ProjectFarm]

Awesome testing! Looking forward to your next video!!

[@electronicsNmore]

Thank you!

[@coryulrich6489]

I love your videos. Can you please do a follow-up to your battery powered shop vac video? You released it right when Milwaukee released a new brushless model that's supposed to be a lot more powerful.

[@vegasfordguy]

You know you've got a good channel when project farm shows up!

[@Idontrunntoofast]

An endorsement from PF! Looks like this channel has finally "Made it" 😂

[@nathangilbert1344]

From the GOAT himself!

[@GigsTaggart]

Thank you for showing the proper way to install a wire nut. Most people don't know how hard you need to twist. You can always tell bad DIY electrical work when you take a wire nut off and the wires aren't twisted.

[@electronicsNmore]

You're welcome. Sometimes I'll make a very nice twist using lineman's pliers, then screw on the wire nut.

[@caffeinatedinsanity2324]

Technically it's not a mistake. The code doesn't mandate pre-twisting. Not to say you shouldn't do it. An extra layer of ruggedness is always good. But it is what it is.

[@GigsTaggart]

@@caffeinatedinsanity2324 pretwist or not, the wires should be twisted when you take the nut off. When you take a nut off two solid wires and they aren't twisted at all, it was installed wrong.

[@rj.parker]

I use wagos for 120 vac control wiring where #14 or #12 is needed. As indicated they work well for three to five conductors and allow easy testing. For general purpose residential box splices they do save space in small boxes especially when pigtails would be required with wirenuts. I have never seen them fail. However their biggest issue is cost.

[@electronicsNmore]

Agree, another great use for them is when you have limited space.

[@loktom4068]

That is why I only use them when someone before me either selfishly cut it too short or snapped it before my turn.

[@Remas20007]

Isn't there different sizes of wagos? It looks like he was using the bigger one that fits a 10 gauge wire

[@MyWasteOfTime]

I like the clear ones so you can confirm your wires are all the way inserted. I used this for temp situations and then follow up with wire-nuts when finalizing my work.

[@Dr_S]

Thanks for posting this. I agree% assuming the wires are miraculously correctly installed in the wire nut! But I have not found that to be the case over my 30 plus years in the industry. I moved to Wago about 10 years ago and I’m not looking back!

[@JOEZEP54]

Nice detailed test. I am running new lines with a couple of outlets & switches and after watching a few videos promoting the Wago connectors I was considering using them. But after watching your video I will stick to pre twisting & using wire nuts. If I had to connect several wires or had to work with an preexisting older outlet box with limited space I would then give the Wago a try. Adding another 👍 to this video. Stay safe, Joe Z

[@jerseyjim9092]

Interesting test. I've been biased against using wago type connectors for some time, believing old school was best. But seeing they've become more amd more mainstream without any known failures, I've finally started using them on a limited basis. What really pushed me over was seeing them already in stalled in some recessed lights I installed. I can also see their value in saving my wrist and elbow joints which are plagued with neuropathy issues. And of course, when there are 5 or more wires to connect. I hate using the big blue wire nuts.

[@seasidescott]

big blues take up half the space in the box!

[@Jermz1979]

​@@seasidescottthe absolutely do not when you factor in all 3 dimensions.

[@thomaswayneward]

Best test I have seen on the connectors yet.

[@electronicsNmore]

Thanks Randy! Be sure to share.

[@TMNT39]

Thanks for the thorough tests, they are always appreciated and enjoyed! I figured the wire nuts would win out due to the direct surface contact of the wires, but it's also great to have detailed information on how each connector performs against another. Another excellent video!

[@SupremeRuleroftheWorld]

the movement in the wago's is intentional. its designed to allow the wires to move so they can absorb movement and dont work loose over time and operate in mobile/heavy equipement applications. dont forget, its copper and it work hardens. you want to absorb the motion, not pass it along. that is also the main problem with wire nuts: they loosen up over time. and nutting a bunch of wires messes up the wires. not to mention if you have to do repairs you have a serious and time consuming problem with redoing nutted connections as you are basically forced to cut off several inches. especially using nuts properly. lever style is much more forgiving and tolerant to abuse and stupidly faster in repairs and maintenance.

[@electronicsNmore]

Disagree. The movement isn't the same for both conductors, I checked. If both were locked down very tight, and both conductors moved together as a unit, then I'd agree with you. One conductor clearly moved more than the other in the clamped area, and that's not good. That's an indication of a poor connection. For stranded copper wire, I have no issue with lever connectors. I lived in several homes over the years, and visited homes where I used wire nuts 30+ years ago, and my work was just fine. I never had any problem removing a wire nut and re-using the wires. The only time I have to cut off wire and strip the ends again, is when the crimp ferrule has been used.

[@hasserecht3678]

@@electronicsNmore while arguing so much about the possible reliability of lever connectors... why didn't you just du a pull test for every single one of them? I mean just saying "i worked 30+ years with XYZ ... therefore it has to be good" isn't really scientific.

[@electronicsNmore]

@@hasserecht3678 Already done. :-)

[@matticussilverman6179]

No way in heck would movement like that be intentional. Just from watching this video, I wonder if the Wago connectors would develop a hot spot and start a fire if it was used on a circuit with extremely high load. I've only ever seen wago like connectors in built as terminals in certain low wattage LED luminaire products.

[@SupremeRuleroftheWorld]

@@matticussilverman6179 i talked to a wago engineer in germany during a forum. the movement is intentional. and it can handle the same or more current as a nut. it is tested to 300% of its offical wire current capacity before melting the plastic. the metal stays connected even when the plastic has melted. so, no. a wire nut is not "better". at worst its equal and at best its vastly superior.

[@Pyridox]

Thanks for the testing, good to know. I use the Wago connectors for low voltage, and for temporary and testing mostly.

[@electronicsNmore]

You're welcome Pete!

[@garthhowe297]

I used several of them on my motorcycle to aggregate wiring from a number of accessory lights... wasn't too worried about 12 volts, but I wouldn't use them for permanent 120v wiring.

[@mrjakobt]

@@garthhowe297 I use them for 230V and 400V permanent wiring. No issues whatsoever.

[@skyfoxrinoasfr4778]

@@mrjakobt Cable size has nothing to do with voltage. 1.5mm² cable is rated for 10 amps. 2.5mm² is rated for 16 amps, and 4mm² for 20 amps. Voltage, even if it's one billion volts, has nothing to do with cable size. Cable insulation, however, is related to voltage rating.

[@ag100pct]

Nicely done. Thoughtfully presented. Easy to understand. Thank you!

[@sirwaffleking]

This is a fantastic test. Thank you for creating this content. I think the angle of the infrared camera reading may give an advantage to the wire nuts. The "top-down" angle in those measurements reads the temperature on the exterior plastic of the wire nut. The "bottom-up" angle on the Wago products reads the temperature near the junction of the wire and the metal in the connector, which is where the heat is generated. I would love to see destructive testing that gives the mean time to failure for a sample of each of these units. Thanks for showing us this excellent comparison.

[@electronicsNmore]

Glad you enjoyed the video! I have many other testing videos on my channel, so be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others. Thanks kzbin.infoplaylists

[@veggiepowered]

Iam your newest subscriber great videos

[@washellwash1802]

To all those saying they're going to stick to wirenuts, all new construction in the Netherlands have been using inserts for solid wire and lever types for solid/stranded mix or stranded alone for 20+ years. It's fine. You have less faults, because when you're doing a hundred houses worth of wirenuts, enough will be wrong. We never use the 221 as shown here. Labour is more expensive than the small wattage lost in the connectors or their higher price. Also, due to the way we build our domestic installations, it's not uncommon to have to connect 6 to 8 wires, which is trivial with wago's connector that accepts 8 wires.

[@electronicsNmore]

It's really not that difficult to line up 2 wires and twist on a nut. If you have 3 or 4 wires, twist them together first using lineman's pliers, trim the ends even, then twist on the nut. You won't get a more secure connection. For Wago to be used more often, the prices need to come way down to 2-3x the cost of a wire nut, not 6x. Thanks for watching!

[@washellwash1802]

@@electronicsNmore never said it was difficult. Netherlands uses central boxes in the ceiling with up to 8 pipes down other boxes, the fusebox and to the switches and sockets in the wall. Doing 3 to 8 wirenuts overhead per box with 20 to 30 boxes in a home is excessively time consuming and tiring. Strip em, stick em in a wago, fold whole thing in the box, close it up. Much quicker. Wago's are fine, and like I said, we don't use levered ones for solid wire, unless there is a stranded in the bunch.

[@billmaghan]

I enjoyed this. Good science here. Autocaptions worked perfectly.

[@venturacatremoc]

Spent ten years as an electrician years ago. We always twisted the wires together BEFORE installing the wire nuts. When 3 or four wires were connected, you stripped them back far enough to insure they were fully twisted together then clip off the excess so the bare twisted wires were completely covered by the wire nut. If the wagos get moved around in the box, they could get flipped open, leaving the wire to pop loose unexpectedly. If I were using them, I would wrap them with tape around the levers for insurance. I don't know how much pressure the wagos put on the wire, but surface and pressure define an electrical connection. The coil inside the Ideal style wire nuts can exert quite a bit of force if installed correctly. Don't just stick the wires in and twist! Takes a few seconds more to do it properly, but what is a life worth. We were taught to install to last 100 years. My house is wired with wire nuts and I sleep just fine. Thanks for listening and for the great testing and analysis.

[@venturacatremoc]

Just noticed possible confusion. When I was doing this work, Ideal made the yellow and red wire nuts we regularly used. Then they did not make wagos. 3m also made the wire nuts and we used them interchangeably. The worked the same and as well.

[@neplatnyudaj110]

Assuming your measurements are correct, wago adds about 500 µΩ of resistance. It's the same as 4 inches of #12 wire. Not saying it's nothing, but given wide variety of wago connectors(up to 8 conductors) and the fact that you need less wire to work with, one could argue that box wired with wagos might produce less heat than one with wirenuts. Anyway keep in mind that most people who advocate for wagos are probably from 220/230V countries, where the contact resistance is even less of an issue.

[@silentferret1049]

No they are from the US that advocate for them. Thats where these things got their rep. I have seen those wirenuts, like what he used vs the more rounded cap, melt where Wagos would not. With old wiring, sometimes it can be cut down so much that you can't get the wire needed to twist. Another which has been tested many times is Wagos atleast don't wear out easily and the larger grey and orange is the older form that Wago started but now its free for others to make. Wago can also do 10 gauge wire with the same connector which might be where its giving so much play. Thats why they are favored as they are. Like he showed, if you have something easily slide up into the cap then it can contact and easily become conductive and that can lead to fire. Finally if you have a new user then its worse for wirenuts as they can easily throw them into a container instead of their box and not know the size which can lead to using the wrong size nut for the wire. That means the possibility of using a larger nut than needed is very likely and lead to far worse connection and will lead to melting and fire.

[@skyfoxrinoasfr4778]

Cable amperage ratings are indeed crucial, not voltage. In Europe, 1.5mm² cables are typically used for 10A circuits, while 2.5mm² for 16A. However, reality is more complex. Even in expensive homes, it's common to have multiple outlets on one line. This can lead to exceeding nominal current, especially with high-consumption devices like heating elements (3000W) or gaming PCs (700W+) = 4000W. It's true that an old 16A fuse might withstand (4000W)17A for a few minutes without tripping. But this doesn't mean it's safe or recommended. Long-term overloading can cause overheating and hazards.

[@Adrianyoutubing]

They are from Europe, which is pretty much all 230 to 240V and an 18 amp circuit in Europe is very rare. most sockets in Europe are on 16A breakers, or in the UK we have a weird ring circuit with a loop on a 32A breaker. but they should be designed so that each leg of the loop circuit takes half the current, so again a max of 16A. the only circuits which would likely see anything over 10A would be in the kitchen, or an electronic shower/heater or possuble an EV charge circuit or other new green tech related system. but oven, cookers, showers, and heaters etc are wired on their own separate "special" circuits, with larger cabling (normally 6mm2 or 10mm2) and individual breakers, so you wouldn't be using these wagos on those. Wago do a larger model but the springs are stronger and all round much larger, so the results would be different. Wagos come into their own when the wiring has to be removed often. I work in industrial control, and Wagos are a godsend for quickly connecting and disconnecting sensors and other control devices. these devices are very low current/voltage (24VDC 4-20mA). Another reason these are popular in the UK anyway, is that these are certified as "maintenance free connections", meaning that they can be "buried" behind walls/under floors in hidden junction boxes. Other types of connecters (screw type) are not allowed to be hidden, and must be accessible. this is because the spring holding the wire can "breath" with the expansion and contraction from the heating and cooling in the conductor. where as other connectors (screw type) can come loose over time.

[@Omegaman1969]

I wouldn't call a ring main weird, I would call it superior.

[@rterry2752]

I see so many loose connections with wire nuts , they can be finicky. Very well done video.

[@smokinsoldier6892]

I'm still going to use lever locks for light ballast. just makes replacement so easy.

[@smoideen]

Thank you so much for this video. I just assumed there would be no voltage drop or increased heat regardless of the type of connector. Going to stick with wire nut.

[@BigInjun05]

I use the ideals. Work great.

[@sublimationman]

My 40 year old house has had at least 6 wire nut failures (installed by a pro with over 30 years experience) fail and a few almost caused fires. I found the 221 Wago connectors and have been using those to replace the failed wire nuts. I heard wire nuts are illegal in Europe because of long term failure (10+ years). They require something like the Wago or Ideal connectors.

[@electronicsNmore]

Sounds llike somebody did a lousy job. If the job is done correctly, they do not come apart.

[@sublimationman]

@@electronicsNmore There were signs of heat due to resistance (cascading) the first one was when the house was around 25 years old. I have no idea for sure that they were installed correctly or not but he was a trained and licensed electrician and did this every day. They did not come apart but the wires were basically burnt and corroded from heat and the nut was slightly melted.

[@sublimationman]

@@drcornelius8275 It's possible but not like the market was flooded with Chinese knock offs back in 1981 like they would be today.

[@sublimationman]

@@drcornelius8275 fair enough.

[@hanseich]

very interesting test. I moved here from Germany about 20 years ago, and first hated the wire nuts. I got used to it and actually really like the blue ones. I've also come to use all kinds of Wago connectors recently, and I also like them. It makes total sense that they are not as good in your test, because of the solid copper wire you use. I think they are mainly used for braided wire in Germany (where I first saw them used by friends). Those wires in return, work very poorly in the nuts, so to each their own I guess.

[@mandefo2]

Excellent test, especially for doing it under 18 amps, which allows a load evaluation between medium and high, which is not commonly seen in other tests. The temperature detail is definitive when considering which is safer for medium/extreme conditions. My conclusion for use in connections of 10 amps and up I would only recommend a screw terminal box or wire nut used professionally. just my opinion.

[@jeffm2787]

For wirenuts its 'when you do it right' for sure. Problem is many can do it wrong. Pro's don't normally make any mistakes. Genuine WAGO connectors are hard to get wrong and have the circuit still work.

[@chrisford8403]

"Pro's don't normally make any mistakes." That's funny! Instead, let's say pro's make fewer mistakes and/or fix them before calling the job finished. LOL. I'm a general contractor (not an electrician) and I use Wagos but only for my personal use in mock-ups for low voltage stuff or for testing 120v issues that a real electrician is too busy to fix. I like the wago and everything says they are fine to use but my actual electrician will not use them but he also will not use integrated LED's unless the customer expressly requests them.

[@asuchemist3371]

@@chrisford8403 Great reply Chris. I just opened up some receptacles that a supposed electrician installed during my house build. Terrible work, simple loops on wire screw not done, no pigtails, and sloppy wire stripping. Maybe electrician had his son or cousin do the jobs. I blame the GC for not having oversight on the trades. Still passes inspection but is a sloppy job.

[@boeing757pilot]

Agree.. The wirenuts, especially the 3M brand, are outstanding and offer a fantastic connection--provided they are properly installed..

[@norwegiannationalist7678]

@@boeing757pilot Ya but when they heat and cool they get loose and fall off and your house burns down.

[@boeing757pilot]

@@norwegiannationalist7678 That won't happen with the 3M brand. Guaranteed :))

[@robertarnold9815]

Very helpful. I use wire nuts when doing final work but have used lever nuts when making temporary connections. Was considering moving to only lever /wago option for everything but your demonstration convinced me otherwise. Sort of surprise how hot those connections get under load. Never thought it be more than 100*

[@venturacatremoc]

One person talked about control wiring and such that has to be disturbed often. I work in an ice cream plant and the use these wagos in those areas. Looking to see how they hold up after many cycles. Also, it's low voltage so it's much safer.

[@ruftime]

Thank you! I love using Ideal connectors, especially in tight boxes, but they ARE tough to use with soft stranded wire. In those cases, wire nut is still my go-to😎

[@electronicsNmore]

You're welcome! Please share. Thanks

[@jeffm2787]

Genuine WAGO connectors work great for stranded wire. Wirenuts are just fine if Done Right.

[@rpsmith]

All of them had insignificant voltage drop and are all completely safe! Wago 221 are my go-to connectors and this little infomercial won't change that.

[@electronicsNmore]

The point of the video was to show which was BEST, and best means: lowest resistance, lowest voltage drop, and lowest level of heating. Yes, all are fine to use.

[@rpsmith]

True, but in context those voltage drops are so close as compared to the applied voltage and current to be inconsequential. They only valid comparison one could take from this video is the cost per connector. Also, some 12 gauge wire has much thicker insulation than the wire you were testing with (some HVAC wiring) and the Wago connector would accommodate that but your test wire would move around more due to its thinner insulation. And after a full day of spinning on wire-nuts I think your hands would be screaming "Bring on the Wagos!" :o)

[@electronicsNmore]

@@rpsmith I see no justification in spending 6x the money to connect 2 or 3 conductors together. You sure are a Wago cheerleader. LOL I could be talking to an employee, it wouldn't be the first time.

[@rpsmith]

@@electronicsNmore -- Well it took you awhile but you finally come up with a valid point about price. And yes, I work for Wago and they pay me to go around and call out people who say nasty things about our products! I guess you are just to smart for me to fool.

[@illestofdemall13]

@@rpsmith He didn't say anything nasty about them.

[@LV_CRAZY]

I think if you open up some German or Swiss commercial equipment and check the wire connections, well, you're probably not going to be happy. The push on or locking lever style connections work and are reliable. Some things take some getting use to.

[@electronicsNmore]

Push-ins get an A+, lever type are a waste to use unless you plan on taking the wires apart often.

[@Neuron43]

I had doubts about using Wago because of the faulty connections with older yellow Wagos I found in a few commercial lighting applications. I'm still using wire nuts but at least now I have the option of using the Ideal connectors. Thanks for the information.

[@electronicsNmore]

You're welcome Ron! Please share. Thank you

[@jeffm2787]

Too many Fake WAGO connectors floating around. People use the term WAGO like Kleenex. WAGO is often getting a bad rep because of all the fakes.

[@Faddnn]

You should have no doubts about using the WAGO, it is the best connector out there, and every electrician outside the US would agree.

[@electronicsNmore]

@@Faddnn You clearly ignored tests and didn't understand why the video was made. Wago or other brand push-ins, excellent choice, lever type, I'll pass on.

[@Faddnn]

@@electronicsNmore Sry, but no. These are tested and tye approved in all developing countries. They work for all types of wires, even though you claim they don't. If you look outside your US bubble, WAGO is exclusively used by thousands of electicans where we moved on from old tec 15-30 years ago. I've read through the documentation provided by WAGO and I've seen their load capacity excide 3 times without faluire.

[@dansaver8247]

Terrific. Thanks. I bought a box of the number threes in the end with the larger taller orange levers for solar and cheapo temporary connections to see if something works while I'm out camping. My stranded, flexible wire connections work fine.

[@phatdonkey78]

Perfectly done testing. This debate has gone on for quite a while, and finally there is a test that shows heat buildup. Especially on a short run. Then you throw in the fact that if these were used to run a 7 or 8 outlet circuit, by the last outlet you could be talking quite a rise in voltage drop/heat buildup. My biggest issue with the clip type connectors is when you pull it out and look where the blade held the wire in place, there is just a tiny nick in the copper. That means that all the current is running thru the 2 points of contact made by the connector. Essentially reducing the gauge of the wire electrically. Overseas on a 240 volt system this may not be a problem, but as for in the US I'll stick to wire nuts. Need more space, get a bigger box.

[@electronicsNmore]

Glad you liked the video!

[@Llortnerof]

Actually, the contact doesn't leave any sign on the wire. You're confusing the spring holding the wire with the contact it is being held against.

[@huejanus5505]

@@Llortnerof A round wire sitting on a flat piece of metal doesn’t have a whole lot of contact space, especially when compared to two wires twisted and compressed together. One edge of a thin piece of spring steel digging into a piece of softer copper wire, on one small spot, is bound to score a mark when there is any movement or doing a pull test.

[@Llortnerof]

@@huejanus5505 Doesn't change that the flat piece of metal is the contact and the edge is just the spring holding the wire in place.

[@michelcobetto288]

great analysis of the components, answers a few questions which bothered me, I will continue using wire nuts since your demonstration confirmed they are still out there for a reason. my compliments on a very professionally done and well explained video.

[@electronicsNmore]

Glad you enjoyed the video Mike! Be sure to check out my wide range of videos and share.Thanks

[@beru58]

I believe simpler is often better. The wire nut is the only connector where the two wires are in direct contact. That is a plus in my book. In THEORY the wire nut could be all plastic and still have the advantage of a huge area of contact. But it has the bonus of that conical spring with sharp edges that cut in and ELASTICALLY holds it all together and further contributes to the conductivity. Those we have here in Sweden often have a hole in the top for testing.

[@seasidescott]

Wire nut problem is that many people don't tighten them enough. It's not about pre-twisting wires together, just need to tighten hard and feel for the bite into the wires, use pliers to give it a bit more bite without twisting so much you break the ends which happens more often with cheap copper. Wagos are great for mixed sizes or braided meeting solid.

[@pierrettebrouard5603]

I just wish you'd conduct the same tests with the mix of solid with stranded wires together. Not only one solid and one stranded, but also with 2 or 3 solid plus one stranded. This is where the Wire Nuts get the worst connection especially with electronic thermostats and also with the heating baseboards or convectors, everywhere you have a mix of solid and stranded under higher current. Wire Nuts seam to make a decent connection at first, but after pushing them at he bottom of the junction box they may loosen and also after 15 to 20 years the connections get loose, dangerously loose due to metal fatigue I believe. They often fail ! This is where the Wago 221 may be a very interesting solution.

[@daveinwla6360]

Yeah, connecting solid and stranded wires together takes a bit more care to expose more of the stranded wire and to wrap it around the solid wire before wire-nutting them. Wiggling is more of a long-term problem, too, with stranded wire because the strands break more easily. Taping the wires together to prevent relative movement helps, but it's laborious. A video devoted to dealing with stranded wire would be invaluable ..... :-)

[@joegim7680]

Very informative and timely video as I'm doing some rewiring in the bathroom. I'll be using Ideal connectors instead of the Wago. For receptacle branch circuits (esp. kitchen & AC outlets) I'll stick with the wire nuts.

[@garthhowe297]

I've almost always used the wire nut style that has a set screw... just gives me more confidence I have a really tight connection. I would say given your high amperage load, all of those connectors did quite well though.

[@electronicsNmore]

Yes, all did well. Even at 16+ mV, still a low value.

[@norwegiannationalist7678]

@@electronicsNmore Wagos are used all over europe and alot of the world, And in my 20 years of experience as a industrial electrician i have never seen a wago or a terminal block and push in wagos fail even in 400 volt three phase applications in hot envoirments and moist envoriments even acid envoirments in factories. Your concern with the connection being too loose is false as i hanged my whole body off a wago connection using solid copper wire, Over the years ive had multiple calls when wire nuts are so loose that they are arcing and the plastic had melted leaving only the spring, I always replace wire nuts with wagos if i find them and all the time ive seen a wire nut not once had it been secured tight as it works itself loose as it heats and cools.

[@IAmThe_RA]

@@norwegiannationalist7678 thermal expansion

[@loktom4068]

Those are the best.

[@MatiRast]

This is the test I was looking for. I always use Wire Nuts because Wagos in Argentina are really expensive (each one 6 times more expensive than Wire Nuts). Besides this, I've always thought that Wire Nuts were better in electrical-related perfomance. Even if the difference is small, is there. And we exclusively use stranded wires so they work great for us!

[@stevejohnson6053]

i've suffered so much using wire nuts and is the reason i am on youtube looking at videos. i still wanna try the push-ins. it has the 2nd least heat

[@matticussilverman6179]

As an Australian Electrician, I would have loved you to test the screw type connectors. We use them almost exclusively in Australia and they are even better than the American wire nuts (although obviously a little less convenient - as you have to tighten a screw).

[@electronicsNmore]

Set screw connectors are superior, just a lot more labor involved.

[@tropicaldimitri7374]

most countries use screw type connectors but they damage conductors.

[@InlineDownhillVancouver]

@@tropicaldimitri7374 From that perspective, every connection "damages" the conductors. Yet, the connections are mechanically and electrically sound, so it's irrelevant.

[@tropicaldimitri7374]

@@InlineDownhillVancouver But Wago causes much much less damage: just slight scratch yet the connection is very solid (as demonstrated by professionals on youtube).

[@tropicaldimitri7374]

@@InlineDownhillVancouver Plus they are not "maintenance free" like WAGO 221 (if mounted on its mounting carrier) and WAGO 222 (with or without mounting carrier).

[@azstanp]

Excellent test. Results are as one would expect.

[@electronicsNmore]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@heathwirt8919]

I suspected the conventional wire nuts would have a lower contact resistance and this test proves it.

[@tropicaldimitri7374]

because it is an insulator and does not conduct electricity.

[@dansanger5340]

Very impressive testing. I think you've found an area where wire nuts are clearly better. However, I think I still prefer Wago overall because they are more idiot proof, and that's more important to me. I've run into more loose connections on wire nuts than I would like (some of them even mine), and I'm more concerned about a loose connection causing arcing than I am concerned about a Wago being a few degrees warmer.

[@heathwirt8919]

The one area where wire nuts are better is the single most important aspect of a multi wire connection. The lower contact resistance means less heating, less possibility of arcing and more current delivered to the load.

[@jpmacoo]

@@heathwirt8919 Less heating, but does 6 deg +/- really make that much difference (wire nut temp at 106 vs the others at ~110 deg)? And the voltage loss difference between the wire nut and the Ideal push connect and the others seems negligible too. As Dan Sanger said, I'd rather go for a secure connection, where no wires are going to pop out when you push them back into the box. I've definitely seen wires come out of wire nuts when there's more than two twisted together. Can you even twist 4 or 5 wires inside a nut? I'd be concerned about that. You can easily connect 4 or 5 with the right push connect.

[@heathwirt8919]

@@jpmacoo "And the voltage loss difference between the wire nut and the Ideal push connect and the others seems negligible too. " If the voltage drop was negligible the temperature rise would be almost identical. Obviously there is a convenience factor to consider using the Wago connectors. If you need to connect 4 or 5 wires using wire nuts you can easily daisy chain the connection using additional wire nuts. My biggest gripe with the Wago connectors is that they should offer equal or better electrical performance than wire nuts, clearly they don't.

[@jpmacoo]

@@heathwirt8919 I didn't say the same, I said, "negligible". 5mv vs 8mv. Do you think that and the 6 degree temperature difference are substantial differences? And why do I want to add additional wires and more wire nuts in the box, when one push connect can do it all, more securely, and in much less space? You're after adding many more potential problems and chances for disconnects

[@boeing757pilot]

I depends on the quality of the installation, as you mention. Poor makeup of "wirenuts" will clearly lead to a problem; proper makeup won't. Have you tried the the 3M Secure Grip or 3M Performance Plus wirenuts? They are outstanding and likely the best wirenuts made. Properly installed, they form an outstanding, cool splice. I'd trust them over Wagos... But, I do agree with you that Wagos are more idiot proof, and that is definitely a benefit..

[@christopherkujala2054]

I've always used wire nuts, I highly recommend Garner Binder wire nuts, I've always had great results from them, I personally wouldn't recommend anything else for connecting wires.

[@iamarawn]

I've been using both the grey/orange and clear/orange for years, working in the offshore field. I'm not even allowed to use the twist type. I do place a tiny bit of heat shrink below it to prevent wiggling. Mont of my house is now outfitted with new wiring and clear wago's

[@AgentOffice]

Do you use the explosive environment version?

[@electronicsNmore]

Lever nut types are a waste of money for any installation that you have no intention of modifying. Push-In type connectors are cheaper and superior.

[@iamarawn]

@@AgentOffice I don't work in ATEX environments. Think dredgers, fallpipe vessels, etc.

[@iamarawn]

@@electronicsNmore Levers work great to be honest. A few cents difference doesn't mean much. They are easier to use and easy to modify. We also use a combination of hard and stranded cables with the same levers (in different areas, depending on use, stranded is used a lot for 24V). I agree that push in is superior, but having one type of connection that's easy to reuse and easy to work with can save a lot of time.

[@Faddnn]

@@electronicsNmore Let's say $50 more in an install that cost the customer $10 000 is a waste? And please not forget that WAGO is quicker to install, lol.

[@kenafren]

I was hoping for a table summarizing the outcomes with a column for comments and maybe a column for rating. This was very helpful as is though.

[@techsir8866]

Excellent video, can you do the same test with stranded wire?

[@electronicsNmore]

Thanks! If this video does extremely well, sure. I don't enjoy spending 8-10 hours or more creating a video to help others, and having only a few thousand people watch. I've seen inferior videos getting hundreds of thousands of views or more, it's ridiculous.

[@peanutbutterjellyjam2179]

Your video was great and helpful. The scientific methodology used for testing was confidence inspiring.

[@electronicsNmore]

Glad you enjoyed it! Please share the video link with others, and watch my latest video below on these connectors. Thanks kzbin.info/www/bejne/l5e2kpxjm7Z8oMk

[@djwmunro]

They are great for solid to stranded connections. Makes overhead work so much easier. I Would not do an entire house with them if I was footing the bill

[@stefanmayer444]

A lot of debating on the best connector and a lot of approaches and viewpoints. It would be interesting to see actually failed connectors and see were the weaknesses were.

[@mromutt]

Pretty interesting results. This will be handy to know when I get new batches of project connectors, Been more and more using power tool batteries in projects and well you can draw a lot of current from them (and melt wires lol) so the heat part was extra helpful. What surprised me most was the soldered spade connectors heat performance, I would have expected at least higher than margin of error difference in temp and feel like I might need to double down on using them in more semi permanent connections that I want to be able to connect and disconnect still for maintenance.

[@professorg8383]

If you can wiggle it, it's not a good connection. If the current is very low, you can "get away with it". But the heat increases exponentially with higher currents. Twice the current in a connection means 4 times the heating. This may not be intuitive, but it is the way the math works.

[@Locksnut]

Excellent and thorough as usual! If a test hole in the other connectors meets code maybe the wire nut manufacturers should consider the same. It just makes sense

[@electronicsNmore]

True, but it is easy to insert a test probe. Glad you liked the video!

[@garbo8962]

Finally somenody supplied the price of each connector. THANKS. Cheap contractors will always use the cheapest connector. Had union guys charging over $135 a hour use the cheapest garbage electrical tape.

[@user-jq9oo2tx8i]

@garbo I’ve noticed that too. Also they use the cheapest wire nuts available. The type that the spring often separates from the nut by itself. My Journeyman always told me “the best is barely good enough” and Wago and Spliceline connectors are a shortcut.

[@scotta.ellsworth3766]

OUTSTANDING VIDEO.

[@rhondakendrick2563]

GOOD INFO THANK U VERY WELL DONE 😃😃😃

[@electronicsNmore]

Glad you enjoyed the video Rhonda! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others. Thanks kzbin.infoplaylists

[@inoahmann7542]

Wago 221 connectors are the best for refrigeration and HVAC. Wire nuts are actually banned for use on r290 or r600a refrigeration equipment (for good reason). Currently I haven't seen a single failed Wago connector. The biggest issue with wire nuts I've seen is the added stress of twisting old wiring causing it to crack apart. On residential electrical I'd use ideal connectors, everything else Wago 221. Not saying wire nuts are bad for in-wall electrical, but I don't use them.

[@electronicsNmore]

Yes, I've seen some old wire nuts after many years end up with a crack up the side, which takes pressure off the wires.

[@georgemartin7717]

Don't know about the other brands but the Wago 221's two conductors are rated for up to 32 Amps and up to 220 degrees fahrenheit.

[@no1slisteninganyway]

Good to know. I've never used the lever-lock connectors on solid wire, only stranded. I'll be sticking with the wire nuts for the solid stuff. BTW the meter was easy to read on the video.

[@electronicsNmore]

The performance of lever nuts are very close to a wire nut when using stranded copper wire. I tested a few. :-) As for solid copper wire, the video made it very clear. Thanks for watching!

[@raynoszs5267]

@@electronicsNmore Nice video! Would joining a stranded to a solid core be better done with a Wire nut or Wago lever?

[@antibrevity]

I'd be interested in seeing you do a similar test between the push-in inserts and the screw terminals on UL approved electrical outlets and switches. The inserts are convenient and harder to get wrong, but the screw terminals offer more contact area. Perhaps such a test could also compare insert the wire straight into the screw terminal (some units have molded areas intended for this) versus hooking the wire around the screw.

[@electronicsNmore]

I already thought of that idea. LOL. Based on these tests, the screw holding the wire will be a better connection.

[@illestofdemall13]

@@electronicsNmore Another problem with the back stab receptacles is the long term failures. They will work when first installed, but often fail down the line.

[@electronicsNmore]

@@illestofdemall13 Very true. I've had to repair many "dead" receptacles over the years. For some light switches and receptacles, all I had to do was move them a little, and the wire made the connection again. With those, I simply moved the back wired connections to the screws.

[@illestofdemall13]

@@electronicsNmore Same here, I have had to repair those connections as well. My favorite method is the screw clamps on the side of higher end switches and receptacles, and the internal screw clamp of GFCI receptacles. I just need to not over tighten the screws because I have a gorilla grip from years of screwing and twisting wire nuts. I work for a small company and our niche is installing high end lighting, dimmers, smart switches, etc. Been there for 15 years so far.

[@jpmacoo]

@@electronicsNmore What is different about the back stab connections vs the push connectors shown above? You'd think that if the push connectors can be made to work reliably and safely that the same design could be used on receptacles.

[@SiliconPower74]

Would be nice to see the same test but with stranded wire. Here in Spain we only use stranded wires with block connectors. Wago are just breaking into the market but most still using the old blocks. I have some Wagos 221 and I was curious to check the wiggle with solid wire. I tried some solid 16awg and doesnt feel safe at all, lots of play. However, the stranded 16awg feels much much better, almost no play. Also 12 awg stranded has zero play so I think the wagos are much better suit for stranded than solid.

[@Sheevlord]

In my experience Wago-style connectors work better with stranded wires than with solid wires.

[@EngineerMikeF]

Ditto, Wago type compress a group of copper fibers in multi strand wire & get better contact vs solid wire where the contact patch is small. If the multi strand is small enough U can lightly twist 2 wires together & insert in a single Wago wire port for better wire to wire contact

[@electronicsNmore]

Correct! The connector conforms to the wire, crushes it, which gives more surface area contact. The majority of people working in their homes will find solid copper wire, and that's why I tested them using solid. Thanks for watching

[@JT-lq4yd]

Correct. 90%+ of the time, a connection will be between a solid to a stranded conductor, such as a supply to a fixture.

[@jeffm2787]

Please don't go with Wago-style. Many of the Fake WAGO connectors are garbage.

[@Sheevlord]

@@jeffm2787 John Ward tested genuine Wago connectors and knockoffs. Surprisingly, even knockoffs performed quite admirably. The genuine ones still worked better.

[@grahamturner6119]

Can't beat a good solder Joint

[@superscort57]

Great informative test

[@aytviewer2421]

THANK YOU for this video. Much appreciated. Was just going to go wire up my wife's newly constructed she shed and **was** thinking about Wagos to save time and space in the boxes. I am shocked by these results and will save my money and go with time-tested wire nuts instead. WOW!

[@sectokia1909]

Ummm... did you not see the results? The Wago was 16mV, the nut 5mV and wire was 4mV. So the difference between using a wago and a wire nut is the same as adding 3 inches to the length of your wires.... All of these connectors are 100% ok. Remember: just because you can measure a difference doesn't mean there is any practical difference. Wagos have their use for saving time and re-doing connections and for situations with vibration.

[@aytviewer2421]

@@sectokia1909 In the end, I used traditional wire nuts in the bulk of my boxes where there was a simple romex in and out to the outlets. I did have two places where five wires (x3) were needed, and in that box I ended up using an Ideal connector to make it easier and to save room.

[@anio6865]

What about for 21 - 26 gauge wires ? I need to connect 3 wires together.

[@ThinKkBIGG]

I would have liked to see the temperature and the loss with Penetrox in the marette (comnector) ...

[@electronicsNmore]

That is normally used for AL to CU or AL to AL.

[@ThinKkBIGG]

@@electronicsNmore Indeed, but surely also helps to lower the resistance and the temperature ... As a test, it is interesting as data!

[@jeteagle1457]

As a electrician for over forty years a properly installed wire nut is by far the best.

[@aguszhoe7660]

Interesting..... Very good explanation, very very usefuly.

[@TimShelnut]

Thanks for this test I was just looking at these connectors on Amazon then seen you had posted this about them. I already use these lever nuts was looking for one to accept larger gauge.

[@electronicsNmore]

I think you can find up to 10 gauge.

[@TimShelnut]

@@electronicsNmore yes sir that's the largest I think there is which due to clamping force I'd say largest I would want. Anything more lug or set screw style.

[@vinitsingh8962]

Awesome video man, I really loved it.👍👍

[@electronicsNmore]

Great to hear!

[@martaamance4545]

When using wire nuts I always twist the bare wire together for three to four twists using lineman pliers, very, very secure connection even when joining 4 wires together. Usually I will use three wire pigtails instead of trying to join 4 or 5 wires together. You take up more space doing this method.

[@markcaldwell1245]

Thank you for a solid test confirming my suspicions about the different connectors.

[@electronicsNmore]

You're welcome Mark! Please share. Thanks

[@richardl341]

Thank you for making this very helpful video.

[@electronicsNmore]

You're very welcome Richard! Be sure to check out my other video on this subject below, and most importantly share the video link with others. Thank you kzbin.info/www/bejne/l5e2kpxjm7Z8oMk

[@coeniejvr]

Which one would you use in a car like a motorhome. Will you still use the twist screw wire nut?

[@enujnehc912]

This is eye opening. I never thought that the good ole wirenut is better than the newer cool-looking gadgets.

[@boeing757pilot]

Really excellent evaluation. I would be interested to know the outcome using the gold standards of "wire nuts".. The 3M Secure Grip and 3M Performance Plus. Both are just outstanding and, I believe, a step above the Ideal nuts. That said, really great job in this video.

[@techmetal2292]

Why do you think they are better?

[@boeing757pilot]

@@techmetal2292 Sorry that I didn't notice your reply until now. First, the "spring" is much heavier and it's grip is superior. Also, the spring has a durable, defined sharp edge that bites into the conductor and creates a gas-tight connection between conductor and spring. This edge is superior, IMHO, to the other brands. Thanks for your reply..

[@brucesamuelson7541]

Good to know thanks for professional testing video

[@electronicsNmore]

You're welcome Bruce! Be sure to share the video link with others. Thank you

[@Apathymiller]

Best wire connector, soldered and shrink wrapped?

[@grahamturner6119]

Good on yer mate you can't beat a decent soldered joint /after all been used since the year dot /at last some body agree, s with me /Good fellow/I bee n Do I

[@host836]

Ive discovered many issues with wire nuts with heat and improper installations where they come off loose or found frail over time. Wagos seem to last and resist longer in handling heat and movement.

[@electronicsNmore]

Decades later it can happen, but no one knows how well a Wago will do over decades, they've only been in use for 15 or so years.

[@martin42]

Interested in understanding why you skipped over the Ideal push-in to recommend the gray Wago. It shows less heating and loss than the others. Is there something you did not mention that drove the selection? Also, Wago have push-in connectors as well. Not sure if this is something new since this video was made. I wonder if those perform any better than the Ideal product. Thanks.

[@hydrologicdesigns]

totally agree! It is contradicting based on all the results he did. the conclusion doesn't make sense. Ideal also makes a 4 wire connector.

[@cirdiam1800]

Good one - I can see that getting a lot of views over time. I had considered Wago and the like - but after seeing this I’ll be sticking with good ole fashion wire nuts.

[@thebrokenbone]

hi thanks for the video. not having the data you presented here i always went for the insert type (lever type unobtainium here) i use helacon connectors bulky but positive with stranded wire (for some reason code here prohibits single conductor wire). had some issues with nuts finding only 3m brand worth of any trust (then again hard to find here). take care. your channel is awesome

[@electronicsNmore]

You're welcome! Glad you enjoy my videos.

[@andrewt9204]

All of my wiring projects are stranded type in conduit for easier pulling. I avoid romex when possible so changes are easier in the future. Lever nuts are by far the easiest to use with stranded. If I am working on solid and I'm joining 2 or 3 wires, then I will tend to use a standard wire nut. Unless it's lighting circuits as they are usually lower amperage and with LED's in almost every fixture, an entire floor's lighting circuit might only be a couple amps. I also pull test every connection. I've had failures on wire nuts, push-in connectors, and the lever nuts using both stranded and solid. I saw a video or two where someone was putting a lot of amperage through all these connectors, like 50+ or something. Well over double the rated. I remember the Wago connectors did pretty well. The wire insulation and connector plastic was all melted/burned off, but the metal spring connectors stayed intact. I think even at 30 amps, the heat was still within acceptable levels with all connector brands.

[@electronicsNmore]

Probably used stranded copper wire, I'd expect close results. That test wouldn't do too well using solid copper.

[@JasonEmanuel]

Excellent! Thanks for sharing this

[@electronicsNmore]

Glad you enjoyed it Jason!

[@billonthehill9984]

Thank you sir... One of the better tests I've seen thus far...The WAGO 221 connectors, i.e. made in Germany are way, way over rated imho... The Ideals, made in the USA are the next better option imho... The Mv tests was well done as was the temp readings on each respective connector with the old standard wire twists coming out on top as I surely expected this because of the nature of the twist & a more overall solid contact area...That you used solid core 12 gauge wire on all the tests made this a fair & accurate test as well... In closing, I have seen a more recent test on ( 4 ) push in connectors for their pulling strength with ( 2 ) of them being the Ideal & the 221 WAGO, but using 14 gauge wire in both stranded & solid core...The ( 2 ) wire Ideal pulled apart at 84.9 lbs., making it by a wide margin the strongest of all ( 4 ) connectors used in the test using solid core 14 gauge wire. The ( 2 ) wire WAGO 221 pulled apart at around 60lbs & once again, they were loose inside the connector housing when fully seated... The stranded wire test using the 14 gauge on the Ideal pulled apart around 48 lbs... The stranded wire test using the 14 gauge on the WAGO 221 pulled apart at 26 lbs...That was an eye opener! There is a next generation Ideal connector now, but I'm not sure if it's available in the states yet, they are the color blue & have smaller lockdown levers that stay in place far better than all of the over rated WAGO's do... If I was to consider ever using the WAGO's, which I won't, I would absolutely run electrical tape over the levers & wrap them tight...To put it another way, If I was left a choice between a WAGO connector or a twist butt connector, the twist connector would absolutely be my choice... All the best, Bill... :~)

[@karrycrasto2010]

How about terminal blocks?

[@electronicsNmore]

Thanks for the suggestion! We'll see how well this video does first.

[@bm830810]

if we fill the wire nut with silicone, would you consider the connection water proof?

[@electronicsNmore]

Years ago I would inject silicone into wire nuts. They also sell silicone filled wire nuts. Thanks for watching!

[@bm830810]

@@electronicsNmore if you had used it before, then it is good enough for me. thanks for sharing your knowledge

[@greggummere7449]

Same results/performance for stranded wire?

[@MannyAguilarJr]

Wago 221 also works with fine stranded and has a test port on both sides. Gray one is the wago 222.

[@electronicsNmore]

Yes

[@SakakiDash]

There should be play and it is intentional so that you don't create breakage when connected and enclosing. The contact point is the same anyways.

[@thomasseabrook1041]

Can you so a Pre-twisted wire nut VS. a wire nut that is not. I don't think there will be much difference is any. If connecting 4 or more solid conductors I find Pre-twisting helps greatly to have a good connection. But with less conductors I do believe both are sufficient.

[@ThePreyMantas]

Wow! I surmised the more expensive nuts were going to be hotter (cost more power to use because of the play in the connection) but I'd find them worrisome...

[@ericfraser7543]

Great Video, no surprise wire nuts are the best connection.

[@loktom4068]

I thought that #3 Grey and orange leaver connector on your display would be the worst until finished your video. Because I purchased some of those and kind of no confident to use it, because I don't see them used often.

[@1988dgs]

The grey connectors are Wago 222 (although the most cloned type) the clear and orange are Wago 221 connectors

[@jamienoel]

Very helpful, thank you! I've always used wire nuts, but had been considering using quick connects; I no longer consider them!

[@electronicsNmore]

The lever type are good for electrical boxes with very limited space, or if you'd like to connect 4 or 5 wires together.

[@yvesn58]

Can we use a Wago connector in an electric panel?

[@johnzangari3432]

I really like the idea of the lever type connectors especially for solid/stranded connections or appliances that get changed out periodically. Other than that, I prefer using wire nuts on twisted connections. What is the brand name of the one you called the lever connector?