Best Ever Guided Tap Wrench!

[@sparkiekosten5902]

I was really enjoying this video till you started polishing your knob!...Then I bursted out laughing and had to make this comment!...I'll see myself out now! Keep up the good work!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@willin2]

11:10 (and a skosh) got approval laughter from me, lol... Now following Sparkie Kosten's lead and showing myself out (chuckling) too. Definitely enjoyed the video. Thank you for making and posting it.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@willin2 - Ha, thanks for the comment!

[@dr.skipkazarian5556]

"Necessity is (indeed) the mother of invention!" I admire anyone who can create a useful "jig" or "tool" that enhances the fabrication experience. Nice job. Best wishes and stay healthy.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks! It definitely makes life easier.

[@countrycraftsman5110]

Great job, as usual. Tapping has become a chore for me after tapping SO many hole at work and home. Still love the old movie projector rolling at the end of the video.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks

[@davidschwartz5127]

Very nice build Wink, a few of my tools have sliding handles like your new tap handle, I solved the sliding problem with 2, O rings on the shaft so it can still slide when I want it to for extra leverage. Also, on another subject, I have an 80s Craftsman brand drill press that I hate but it has one nice feature for a long time I never knew it had. It's possible to set the quill spring to force the quill up or force it down by pulling the 3 spoke handle out and adjusting the spring tension either way. It's a very handy feature for drilling, with the exception that you have to lock the quill in the up position, but it is very easy to change the force direction anyway. I mostly have it set to the force-down direction for an easier drill bit to punch mark alignment. Don't know if all drill presses have that feature but I stumble on it when I was replacing the quill bearings by a setup mistake.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I thought about the o-ring method but most often I want it in the middle anyway. My drill press has that adjustment but it's not quick and easy. That would be handy at times.

[@howardosborne8647]

When you were thinking about brazing the Tee bar I was talking to my screen and saying 'just put a grub screw in the shank'....you must have heard me😨. Nice job,I like your design very much👍

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Dang... I was telling my wife I was having super natural guidance while making this video. I told her I has hearing voices. She didn't look pleased. Thanks for posting, I'll show her your comment!

[@MrAndrewz1]

@@WinkysWorkshop Knurl the center and press it in. Standard shop practice in commercial shops

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@MrAndrewz1 - yep, that would have worked well although I like the set screw. It will allow me to move the handle if I ever want to. thanks!

[@michaellitzkow8123]

Another beautiful video - thank you so much. I like your project very much, but it' also a joy just watching you work. You have a calm and unhurried confidence that really shows the pleasure you feel as you do the work.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Well thanks! I guess i really do enjoy my shop time. Thanks for watching!

[@cdrive5757]

Hey Winky, when you finished it and tested it out I noted your reaction. You said "I love it"! My guess is that anyone who has ever tapped a hole will Love It. PERFECTAMUNDO! Chris

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks Chris, yes it's super easy to use!

[@dwightcarlson7136]

link or more detailed description of those items which hold the taps? And nice work and thanks for sharing your ideas/designs!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks! I bought them on Amazon. I think they were $22 for the pair. Google 3095001

[@t.d.mich.7064]

I remember back in the 60's a die shop I worked at had a tapping fixture. A C-frame with a floating spindle, with a handwheel that had a spinner handle on it, attached on the top end. Place the work under the spindle and turn the handwheel. There were collects for every size tap. The C-frame kept the workpiece from spinning.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I've seen this... they work great.

[@davidschwartz5127]

I also work with a similar device tool when I was in the Navy in the 1960s

[@David-hm9ic]

As many tools as I have (enough to build a car, boat or airplane) I was not aware of the square drive tap holders and had been trying to invent something much like this. Holding the tap was the last problem to solve. Many thanks!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Glad to help, I'll have to say, this is one item I use all the time!

[@Raul28153]

no charge for the extra holes.

[@richardgreen7811]

NOT HATE MAIL ... I've been a fan of your Channel for a long time and have learned many things and ideas. One comment I've debated with myself over is watching you stop the drill press chuck with your left hand after shutdown. It hearkens me back to 1967 when my summer job before starting college was working at the Chevrolet Assembly Plant in Flint, Michigan. My work station was next to a guy who had recently transferred from the 4 cylinder motor assembly line to the V8 line. Before it became automated, his job at both locations was operating a stantion drill press to assure certain water passages in the engine block were symmetric. For years, while working on the 4 cylinder line, he had stoppled the chuck by grabbing it with his hand, without incident. On his first day on the V8 line, and while doing the same job as before, he reached up to stop the chuck. Because these chucks used an allen key versus a chuck key, and the drill in the chuck on the V8 line was larger in diameter that the one on the 4 cylinder line, the tip of the allen key protruded slightly, which grabbed his wedding ring and ripped his finger off, including the tendons that connect it into the hand. Obviously, "you" don't wear a ring when you work in the shop, but many Channel Observers do. Even though virtually all of us have a "chuck key" arrangement, I can still see a situation where the teeth of the chuck could grab a ring and do the same damage. Anyway ... it's off to better thoughts.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

You're probably right, a bad habit. That a sad story for sure. I don't think anything quite that drastic could happen with my drill press but nevertheless. I'm not sure why the hex key was sticking out but somebody should have taken care of that. I should always exercise caution but when I'm around a new machine I'm in hyper caution mode. I worked as an engineer (without the degree) modifying and printing presses and related equipment. I wasn't allowed to use many of the machine in the shop but for some reason the drill press was okay to use. The darn thing was grossly over powered. with a big 3 hp motor. They had an old 6 inch mill vice on the table but no way o clamp it done. I saw one of the machinists drill in 1 inch hole and it grabbed, spun around a couple times and flew across the shop. I'm glad my lathe and drill press have 1/2 hp motors.

[@richardgreen7811]

@@WinkysWorkshop A brief explanation. The drill press model used on each production line was the same in both locations, however the hole to be machined on the V8 line was larger, therefore taking a larger diameter drill. As to why the machines used allen bolts, I have to presume because the allen bolt might be faster to operate, and more likely, people being people, chuck keys would get misplaced (allen wrenches are everywhere), just a guess. Because the drill diameter was greater, when the allen bolt was tightened, a small amount of the head remained outside the chuck. Not much, but just enough to catch the guy's ring. Of course, like all barn doors ... after the horse left the barn, a new rule came out that #1 don't brake the turning chuck, and #2 remove all jewelry (to include necklaces) before operating equipment. URELATED ... a guy with an Afro Hairstyle was operating a pneumatic multi-socket (had to be 12-15 sockets) tool (very large device) that had two thumb-levers. One lever initiated the sockets, and the other lever lowered the machine onto the headbolts. One day a socket snapped in 1/2. The operator stuck his head down to assess the problem and the 1/2 of the socket that stayed on the machine grabbed his hair. You guessed it. Very ugly. From then on, we all had to wear hair nets while operating the machine and were told to let the "mill-right" conduct any assessments to the machine.

[@Self_Evident]

Excellent tap wrench/tap follower! But, won't it be harder to break taps with the shorter handle?? :)

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Well you have to adapt to the additional leverage but when a tap is guided if can talk a lot more force. So far I have broken one tap and it was very dull.

[@rayfalcone6897]

well Wink,i just finished my new (borrowed from you) tap-wrench,i absolutely love it....keep up the good work

[@WinkysWorkshop]

That's Great! I love hearing that!

[@andreikersha4060]

Don't ever get into a habit of stopping a drill chuck by hand ... even pro models could grab and pull your wrist. A mill would pull tendons out of your arm.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Nice tap wrench

[@paulkapala2960]

Winky you done it thats great to the office to build one or two!Thanks Winky even though its 4 yrs ago lol!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks great

[@JohnnyL6975]

Why don’t you insert the tap into the chuck run it reduced speed real slow and let the tap do the work..the tap will work for your plus you are going through 1/4 steel doesn’t make sense on what you are doing..

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Well the 1/4" steel I used was simply for a demonstration. The main reason for not tapping with the tap in the chuck that my drill press does not go slow enough. Also if it was 3ph and instant reversing it would be a plus. Then there is also the fact that it is one less tool change in the chuck if you chamfer the hole. Maybe I'm OCD but I usually do this.

[@modelmaker8799]

Hey guy a no.7 or .2010 is for aluminum and a 7/32 or 0.21875 is for steel...

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Both are correct actually but in most cases the larger drill is way easier and strong enough, especially with larger taps! I'm using an old drill/tap chart by Starrett. I need to print out one with the minimum and maximum sizes. Weird that Starrett didn't bother with this info, but you are right, thanks for the reminder.

[@tommccully2109]

I think the black drive is for impact and hardened. And on the handle take a chisel and upset the handle on both sides of the tap holder. Just a little should stop it from moving all the way side to side.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I think in the past the black extensions might have been harder but these were just cheaper. (Harbor Freight) Good idea on the handle.

[@stale7001]

Very good. The price of tapping chuck like this. Where to find chuck ?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks, the part number is in the description under the video. Both Irwin and Grip sell the same chuck. Google the part number. Eastwood has one for $15 right now and a pop up discount of 10% which might offset some of the shipping.

[@paulsmith8356]

Love seeing creative solutions. Thanks for the video. I just subscribed. What is the source of Your tap holders?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Great! Thanks for watching. The part number is in the description. KZbin would tag it as advertising if I said put it in the video. Google the number.

[@robertkerr6617]

enjoy your video as I am from Australia where do u purchase the adapters as i can't seam to find them over here

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I found these but they are high priced. I pay less than half this amount here in the US. Exchange rate? www.desertcart.com.au/products/3348850-irwin-tap-socket-set-adjustable-2-piece-3095001

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Looking good. I just put the tap in the drill press chuck and start the motor then when I get close to the hole stop the motor and jam the tap in. Starts strainght every time.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Ha... effective! I like it. I might try it with a slower drill press... mine is a bit too fast. Even better would be 3 phase (instant reverse!)

[@melgross]

People still used geared chucks? Unless it’s a ball bearing model with built-in R8 for my mill, or Morse 3 for my lathe, I haven’t used one for years. I must have a half dozen in the draw. It just slows things down too much.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I've thought about changing it but it seems to be a very good chuck. The no doubt high dollar key-less at work slip worse... kind of afraid to change.

[@melgross]

Most keyless chucks come with a wrench. Supposedly, they self tighten, but I find that for heavier work, a bit extra torque from that wrench prevents slippage. As long as the arbor is part of the chuck, my;u can do light milling with them, as long as accuracy need doesn’t exceed 0.002”. My Waltham chuck allows me to mount a drill, or mill, while the machine is running, and to remove it while running. At first, it seems a bit dodgy, but you quickly get used to it. Anyway, chucks are consumables, at some point they have to be replaced.

[@stanleyleith6781]

Good morning Mr Winky. I love the Video where you use the adapters from 1/2” tap to #6 tap. Please give me link so that I can purchase those adapters

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Google this part number 3095001

[@stanleyleith6781]

Thanks Mr Winky. They are on E- bay

[@paulk3573]

Hello Sir, here is another good idea and excellently carried out. I bought the 3/8 "square drive tap Holder. To put your idea into action, I hit 2 points. In 14'11 What is the name of the black piece you sawed and do you have a link for it? purchase. In 1'30 what and the name of your chamfering tool and maybe a link for the purchase. I cannot find these products on the web. Have a nice day with my kind regards. PK (French)

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Hello Paul, the tool I used to chamfer is a "3/8" 82 degree carbide single flute countersink". They are a bit high priced but considering they last forever I think they are worth buying. 82 degrees is US angle for flathead bolts/screws. If you are not in the US you might want to get a 90 degree as most metric screws are 90 degree. amzn.to/3vlkkQl I'm not sure what you saw at 14:11. Maybe the 3/8" extension I sacrificed? amzn.to/3vjNGys

[@paulk3573]

@@WinkysWorkshop Hello sir, thank you for your information. For the extension it's ok, concerning the chamfer cutter, it is out of stock; I'll wait. Thank you for everything, good luck and have a good day. P. K.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@paulk3573 - You're welcome. Ebay sometimes has them also - 3/8" 82 degree single flute carbide countersink

[@JimE419]

Wait! What? Why not just put the tap in the drill press chuck??

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Most consumer drill presses go too fast including mine. If it was slower and had 3 ph with instant reverse it would be a good option. Also unless you have a tapping head its hard to back up to clear the chips for a blind hole.

[@tnekkc]

I would use rubber bands, not lock collars.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Yeah... or little o-rings! Cool idea.

[@billdlv]

That is a good idea, especially since you can interchange taps quickly.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I agree, I have thought about getting two more. Thanks for watching.

[@randystaller2366]

Do not grab that chuck while it's turning.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

why

[@compassprecision]

As usual, very informative and entertaining video.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Coming from Compass Precision and the kind of work you do that's a big compliment! Thanks!

[@compassprecision]

Winky's Workshop you’re too kind! Thanks!

[@ChimeraActual]

I bought a couple of those tap heads with a similar goal, now I know how to do it!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

That worked out well!

[@joeybobbie1]

Hi Winky Can you put down the Sizes of the Rods you used, and what Type of Steel you used. I just bought the Tap Heads and want to make one of these. Thanks

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I used 5/8" rod about 2 inches long. You could also use 3/4" and use a 1/2" countersink bit if you wanted to. Nothing critical but I would not go shorter than 2" or you won't have enough travel. The hardest part for me was getting the good fit on the extension. If your hole is too big you can also braze it in place although be aware that the heat might mess up the spring on the detent ball that hold the socket on. Thanks for watching!

[@joeybobbie1]

Hey Winky, I have to say. This has been the best Tap handle I have used. I like the rigidity a lot better than using a Spring Follower type guide. I actually mad a Pin to put in my Chuck that fits the wrench really well and it lessons the play when I’m Tapping. Thanks for the Video. I Like it 👍

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@joeybobbie1 Very cool, glad you like it. Certainly a pin would work very well and also save you a little cash, the 3/8 carbide countersinks are a bit pricey.

[@JohnBlack-dv8ss]

With the 2nd type you used the wrong size if you used a smaller handle/ holder the back of the tap sticks threw, allowing access to the center hole on the back of the taps square end. So can use a dead center.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

This true if you have taps with a center hole. Most my taps do not have them and the ones that do are all larger sizes (3/8" or larger).

[@JohnBlack-dv8ss]

@@WinkysWorkshop thats a pain, keep up the great content on machining

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@JohnBlack-dv8ss Thanks John.

[@ericrichards5862]

First time viewer here and now a subscriber. Thanks for the tapping tips and the small project. I have had great success using form taps and have yet to break one so whenever I need to purchase a new tap I select the forming tap. By the way all the manufactured tools I have tested are usually around Rc 36 in hardness, soft enough to drill through.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks for the sub! I've never used a form tap. I hear they are stronger but better suited for softer metal.

[@ellieprice363]

@@WinkysWorkshop Yes for softer more ductile materials such as aluminum and leaded steel. Form, “express” taps require a larger tap drill size since a portion of the material“flows” into the hole. With the correct size tap drill and proper lubricant the tap and the thread is stronger.

[@atjefft]

Anyone have the link to the previous tap wrench adapter build mentioned at 3:27?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I think I must have deleted it. The only advantage it might have is the total height was slightly less. That thing was a huge pain to make. I just checked my computer and can't find the video, sorry.

[@atjefft]

@@WinkysWorkshop no problem, thanks for checking.

[@garyvukich4059]

Slide. A couple of small o rings on booth sids

[@WinkysWorkshop]

That would work! Thanks

[@davidschwartz5127]

Just rewatching your video not realizing I'd watched it before until I saw my comment, I improved all drill press work by removing the handle on the drill chuck key and welding it through a box end of a combination wrench 1/2" or 9/16" and the first time I used it I thought why did I do this 10 years ago.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

That is a good idea! I'm sure the keys are made short to protect the chuck but slipping drills doesn't do the chuck any good either

[@bentontool]

Hello Mr. Winky, I wonder if an old machinist's trick would work for you on the loose handle rod: perhaps try knurling the area that slips through the body. It might gain you a few thou and make it fit. BTW, GREAT IDEA! I will be making one...

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Yeah... good idea. I have done that several times. Thanks!

[@freedomenergy6644]

Hello thanks for sharing. Were did you buy those tape holding chucks?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Google this number 3095001

[@freedomenergy6644]

@@WinkysWorkshop Thankyou for the information

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@freedomenergy6644 You're very welcome!

[@RelentlessHomesteading]

Liked it very much. Funny how I used taps all my life and never had a problem with them being non-concentric. ...Badda-bing-badda-boom... UNTIL I started doing some precision work. YIKES -- never realized just how off they could be !!! This appears to be a great solution - got the Irwin tap socket set $29 in my Wishlist for the next set of orders. Will be fun to make. Would have been nice to have a spring-ball type mechanism for centering the handle, but I sure don't see any easy of of doing it w/o making the upper handle of a 1/4" larger diameter. But really not important that set screw can be let out if leverage is REALLY needed. Thankyou.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I considered the ball and detent on the handle but honestly I've never needed to slide the handle. I use the heck out of this tap wrench. Thanks for watching!

[@RelentlessHomesteading]

@@WinkysWorkshop You've got good long handles on it anyway & set screw is simpler.

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Awesome idea Mark! Adding to the project list! ATB.....Dean

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks Dean. it's easy to make and I used the heck it. Almost every project in fact.

[@dikkybee4003]

When ever a YT video has best in the title you know it isn't. Firstly when you countersink a hole slow down the speed. Secondly don't use the same tool as a guide as you damage the cutting faces. Just replace the c'sink with a point that is turned to 90 degrees and use the wrench. Some taps have a centre drill in the end as it is used in its manufacture, if it doesn't the 90 degree point lines up in the jaws. It's that simple, if you need more power just get a bigger wrench. That's the best way and you don't need to waste 15 minutes watching a video.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Ideally yes, the countersink needs to run slower. In the interest of time I didn't move the belt plus the 1 second deburring cut would never hurt the counter sink bit any way. Using the counter sink as a guide is a short cut. It never damages the cutter as its hardened and my tee handle is not (in fact in my case it is carbide). I've used and abused it for about 5 years now and it's sharp as ever. The tee handle tap wrench is worn however... no loss, it's junk. Aside from power tapping and buying a different drill press (mine is too fast) this tape wrench is a huge time saver. The countersink is already in the drill press so one chuck change is eliminated. The leverage of the wrench makes tapping a breeze. I've seen your type before. If it't isn't by the book or your idea then is isn't any good. Sorry for your burden. And... seeing as how 32,000 people have watched this video and out of 217 comments YOURS was the only negative I'm inclined to believe you are the one with a problem and not me or my procedure. Thank god for people that think out of the box.... otherwise we'd have no progress and we'd still be living in caves. One last comment. According to you, the 15 minutes watching the video was wasted time. Why did you waste another 15 minutes writing your comment?

[@Pushyhog]

nice one thanks

[@WinkysWorkshop]

You're welcome!

[@rolandkuhn9066]

Second time watching. Question is the handle is sized to fit over the countersink? I do love how it is free to slide on that shift. But I don't think my countersink has that much of a shoulder. What do you think about just having a steel shaft to chuck up as the guide? Did find the chuck adapter on Amazon.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I got my adapter on Amazon (3/8" Square drive tap holder: 3095001). As for the counter sink. Mine is a 3/8" OD carbide single flute. I think I found it for $22 although I can not remember where. I've been using it for over 5 years now and it's sharp as ever. Highly recommend the investment. Yes a shaft would work perfect as well, even a 1/4" rod. The only drawback is you end up with one more tool change in your chuck when doing multiple holes. If your countersink has even a slight shoulder it will work great. It's only holding the top, the bottom is guided by the tap. Thanks for asking.

[@patdexter9188]

They work okay but not very well with an air ratchet or in tight area's on equipment. I went to tap sockets instead. Using a ratchet works well for me. If you are fabricating this would work, nice video, thanks!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Your welcome and i agree

[@jonshank9572]

I'm a bit late in the game here. I've been watching your videos for a couple years now, just missed this when it came out I guess. An improved tap handle is on a short list that I should be getting too soonish. I hope you don't mind me taken some of your ideas as inspiration. Only major difference is mine will have a removable spring guide "pusher" in or really with it if I don't need it for something in particular. Got some nice ideas from this video that should really help lower the complexity of the finished tap handle. Always enjoy your videos Winky, I might miss one every now and a again, but I think I'll be watching these videos as long as you are still putting them out. Learn something new in alot of them and kinda feel like a buddy is showing me what he's been up to in the shop.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I love this comment. Thanks! I've always felt the same when I watched Mr. Pete. I had the opportunity to meet him in person last year and he was a great person. Thanks again!

[@alinemati8769]

Awesome job I like it thank you

[@WinkysWorkshop]

You're welcome, thanks for watching.

[@donswords6671]

Fun! Gonna make one. BTW who makes that bench vise you have? Looks pretty neat. Mine has so much backlash. Time to replace.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks! The vice is a 5-inch made by Yost. It seems to be a very good vice but I'm not sure they make it any more.

[@lisag2771]

Love that idea. Great work.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks!

[@ronnierykers3638]

Thank you winki for the tip

[@WinkysWorkshop]

You’re welcome 😊

[@markashlock9017]

Very elegant. Thanks!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thank you too!

[@hetlerz4sken]

I would get a 123 block and use the holes to guide it straight

[@hetlerz4sken]

Or get one of the tap-o mastic things I've seen on the manual mills thats the easiest way to manual tap anything in my opinion

[@WinkysWorkshop]

That would work. I like this method although if you don't have a table that moves like a mill it's less benefit.

[@rubarb0406]

Winky, If you watch your video closely, you will see that your larger drill bit spun in the chuck. When you tightened the chuck you only used one hole. There, of course, are three holes. Try tightening the chuck using all three holes. I believe you will find better success drilling and drill bits will not get a chewed up . . . not you mention that you chuck will last longer drilling more concentric holes.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I'm sure I could have tightened the drill better and using the other holes does help to some degree. Sometimes nothing will hold the drill. I'm guessing the chuck was worn when I got it. Thanks for the comment.

[@joezralok6161]

Very nice idea, Now a question, your drill press has a reverse? If so why not tap using it? I know some don't.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

No, my drill press doesn't reverse or go slow enough. I have used drill presses like this before but I've never had a lot of luck getting the chuck to grab a tap. I do this in my lathe although I have the same problem. I probably need to invest in an ER collet.

[@trollforge]

Interesting.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Glad you think so!

[@user-bl1eh2qs9o]

Why don't you set the drill press in the lowest rpm, and put the tap in the drill chuck? Possibly make a reverse switch on the motor.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

The slowest rpm is too fast and it's not 3 ph. (no instant reverse)

[@rescobar8572]

Great idea! I do lots of tapping at work, definitely will start on one of these. Where did you source the 3/8" holder?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Google 3/8" Square drive tap holder: 3095001 (its in the description) Thanks

[@christopheleblanc9175]

should market it,,,

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I love it

[@wayneevans5050]

Were those adapters made for tapp wrenches or something else?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

They were made to use on a ratchet

[@wayneevans5050]

@@WinkysWorkshop thanks, I found them and ordered a pair.

[@ronnierykers3638]

Where you buy adaptors

[@WinkysWorkshop]

3/8" Square drive tap holder: 3095001 , I bought mine on Amazon

[@k.johnzarzeczny682]

I would put a thumb screw instead of set screw when you have to change the position of handle. A good project.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Not a bad idea!

[@TheKnacklersWorkshop]

Hi Winky, An interesting solution to your problem... Take care Paul,,

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thank you!

[@robertlark7751]

Wonderful idea that I will be trying soon. Keep up the great videos but PLEASE stop grabbing the drill press chuck to stop it. One of these days you will get hurt doing that and I/we don't want our Winky to get hurt.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks for the tip

[@trialnterror]

I’m going to make one, I have them tap holders! I’m also going to steal your idea of your chuck key on a leash!!!! Love it! Keep it up!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks - Yeah... those chuck keys have a habit of getting away.

[@markkoons7488]

Sure like your Videos.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks you very much Mark. I use this tap wrench almost daily. It's way better than a standard tape handle when used in a drill press.

[@stevelecain886]

nice job thats the nicest tap handle I've seen. hope you don't mind if I use your idea and make one for myself.I have really big hands and I find those t-handle tap handles very hard on my hands after awhile. great video.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thank! The standard t-handle wrenches are terrible if you have to tap more than one hole.

[@keithbaker8212]

Oh yeah I got to have one of those

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I use it several times a week

[@bengunn3698]

Top job , glad you didn't braze the lever in as you may be short of room one day and have to slide it back and forth.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

So true! Thanks for watching.

[@tiredoldmechanic1791]

The first tap wrench you used would have done the job if you just slide the t-bar to the end for more leverage.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Yes it would, I have been doing it for years. It's simply a mater of convenience and ease. The new wrench is easy on your hands, has more leverage and will never slip out from under the spring loaded tap guide. And slipping the handle to one side makes slipping out from under the guide much more likely. I prefer the new handle. The only way I use the old tap wrench is for tight areas where the longer handles might be in the way.

[@darlenenugent2206]

My husband used the same female tap adapter but he used a sliding T handle that had a 1/2 square male on the bottom and a combination 3/8 and 1/4 male adapter on the top of the sliding T handle. He put a deep 10 mm socket onto the 1/4 adapter on top and now had a tool very similar ot the one you made but using ready purchased tools.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

It sounds like you husband thinks like me

[@Eeropolvasti]

Thanks Winky, what oil are you using, when you tap?? Could it be any oil, even,...temporarily..... olive oil ? ??? Just asking =)

[@WinkysWorkshop]

From what I understand cutting oils lubricate and cool.Any oil is better than no oil and everyone seems to have an opinion as to which is best. I have read that vegetable oils are good but I never tried any

[@balisticsquirel]

Nice. Me, i would have just added leverage to the little wrench's handles to solve the comfort issue, and hooked a weight on the drill press handle to solve the need for a third hand issue. But i can't get shmancy tools like the cool adapters you used.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

That would work, thanks

[@RANDALLOLOGY]

I like that, it gives the use of both hands to tap. Where do you buy those 3/8 tap adapters from ?👍

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks. Run a search for this "3/8" Square drive tap holder: 3095001"

[@nickk5172]

Instead of the set screw to hold the tee handle in place you could use an O ring that fits snug or a plain old rubber band twisted multiple times till it fit snug on both sides of the tee handle. Then if you did want to move the handle to get more leverage you could get it to slide instead of having to find your allen wrench to loosen the set screw

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks, that's a great idea!

[@gabewhisen3446]

Boy you sure getting alot of views nice job and nice work got a real kick out of the ending leave it to winki

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Yeah... the ending was fun... kinda looks like old movie reels

[@rajeshrengarajan1455]

You're awesome!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Haha... thanks. You are too!

[@joeharris2456]

What is the make of the adapters, and who is the manufacturer? Seems like an idea I could use and fall in love with.; Keep it up

[@WinkysWorkshop]

It's an Irwin 3095001 - thanks

[@bobstratton6362]

I just chuck them in my 18v drill and set the clutch just enough drive the tap. I'm lazy. If it dosen't have a motor, it's too much work.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I do the same but it also depends in what kind of accuracy I'm wanting.

[@rayramirez938]

What a Great project Mr. Winky. Thanks for sharing.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

You are very welcome. Simple too. I use it a lot! Thanks!

[@rayfalcone6897]

congats Mark,this is on Best home made tools,congrats again,see i said it.best video yet.....you deserve it my friend.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks Ray, yeah I posted a few videos to the Homemade Tools web site. It was a nice surprise to get the award.

[@dwightcarlson7136]

Also, is that powered lift on your drill press a purchase item or is it your own design?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

The power lift is a Harbor Freight 3/8" drill but I had a hand crank on it for a long time. The drill press is very much modified however. It has a square column so that the table stays in the same horizontal position as it moves up and down. Sadly it's a significant modification although well worth the effort in my opinion. I do not understand why Grizzly of Jet tools don't make a drill press like this??? Anyway, this is the first video of the drill press modification if you are interested. kzbin.info/www/bejne/n2XCd6eDgrKZetk

[@johnhall8455]

Perfect for use in the lathe too….may need a shorter handle…but that’s no problem

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I totally agree, Thanks!

[@wags9777]

But how did you tap for a set screw before the tap wrench was complete.....?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I reverted to to the old method and tapped it by hand with a standard t handle.

[@geoffkail7393]

Very NICE.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

thanks

[@samrodian919]

Nice tool Winky! One tip if you wish to make the handle tight in the body, then put a deep coarse knurl where you want it tight and if it is not too slack in the first place then it will become a light press fit. I did this when I made an unequal length handle for my Chinese 6" three jaw chuck on my lathe to give me just a little more purchase. It worked a treat. ( Not my idea, I was only copying the original stock handle)

[@WinkysWorkshop]

That's a good idea! I'd done this before. I went with the set screw I it would be easy to change the handle length if I needed to. Thanks

[@darrelsartin4355]

If you like spring loaded guides, just drop an appropriately sized spring in the top before you insert the countersink bit, and set your quill position to preload the tap handle.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

This is true but there is really no need for a spring.

[@billybike57]

I’m 66 years old but I’d still apprentice under you!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Haha... will thank you! I'm 67

[@billshiff2060]

I like it.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks! This is actually the most used item in my shop.

[@joeybobbie1]

I like it 👍

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks! I'd say it is second only to my square column drill press. I love this tap wrench!

[@paulgast7757]

I like your crisp working style and spare commentary.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Glad you enjoy it! I use the heck out of this tap wrench!

[@SuperZmeister]

The set screw was a stoke of genius, I would add a groove centered on the ‘T’ handle for the set screw to hold and balance it. Although in retrospect, I am a little OCD at times.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Actually I thought about doing that also but I was worried about it weakening the handle. Thanks for watching.

[@impetus444]

I like it!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks, i love these tap holders

[@ricksweetser1683]

New to your channel. Love your content! Best ever guided tap wrench.......most honest description on the Internet!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Wow, thank you! I'll have to agree, I use it all the time.

[@dannywilsher4165]

By golly I think you have made the best ever guided tap ranch!!! And I noticed that power table being used quite often!! Awesome idea, thanks Winky!!!!!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I love the powered table. If I had a knee mill I'd have to have it powered too. Incredibly handy!

[@grayskwerl4973]

Thanks for the great video and information. Just subscribed.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks for the sub! Your welcome.

[@19672701]

Really nice! Maybe a ball detent set screw with a small groove? Working on my square column drill press now!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I thought about that too although most often I'd leave the handle in the middle. Cool on the drill press! I absolutely love mine, especially after adding the HF drill power lift. The only thing I'd change is to increase the width of the vertical front lower arms, the ones that hold the eccentric pin/bearing. You might also pin or weld the arms to the horizontal piece. My table has a little spring to it.... certainly not a major concern but still worthwhile fixing while you are building it.

[@rayfalcone6897]

wink,i'm looking at your video again,i just love this video,it has to be one of the best ones yet..thanks again my friend

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thank you very much Ray. I'll have to admit I really like this wrench. Simple too.

[@matthewfolbre1635]

Very nicely done. You could've also knurled the tee handle and then press fit it to the tap drive.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Very true!

[@kentuckytrapper780]

Great video winky, keep'um coming.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thank you! Will do!