Best framing tip ever

[@jardiff5983]

The most important thing to know about framing is Spanish.

[@DanM-kp1ux]

😂

[@Jordan-u7j]

Lmao fr

[@MarkJames-k5w]

Especially down here on Texas gulf coast, I think I was the last white framer

[@JohnDoeWesside213]

​​@@Freeland-Farm Dont forget to mention Trump 2024 ..

[@CptRedBeard777]

Just learn key terms like “close enough” “idgaf” and “no one will see it” and you’ll be part of the $10 crew in no time 😂

[@Simon-tw7vv]

That’s the difference between framing and carpentry A tape

[@chrislull670]

Framing is a type of carpentry dork. There's different kinds of carpentry.

[@franklinauguste415]

Stop made no sense 😂

[@Nameentered]

You use your tape in framing all the time. It's blocking it doesn't need to be perfect even though his cuts are all within 3/32nds which is just fine for blocking. If we need to be precise then we will pull out the tape and make it precise

[@Nameentered]

​@@chrislull670not in my world. Carpentry to me is finished woodworking. Framing is just framing. Rough cut

[@chrislull670]

@@franklinauguste415 it does you just don't have any

[@jaywiebe7612]

We often have to do entire walls. Just did a 60'x140' shop with 2 rows of blocking all the way around. I build a jig for that. Takes a minute or 3 to slap together and can cut hundreds of blocks per hour at precisely 22 and 7/16 and also perfectly square. Edit: I meant 14 and 7/16. For those of you who think that it should be a full 14 1/2, if you can point me where to find lumber perfect enough to do that, I'd like to know. Maybe you're building with LVLs for framing lumber?

[@Loo0ch]

How about a miter saw with a stop block?

[@jaywiebe7612]

@@Loo0ch that would work fine. We are diversified enough that we never use our miter saws for framing because they need to stay tight and accurate enough for interior trim work. I don't think a miter saw with a stop block would be much if any faster than the jig I build and would take more time to set up. I'd be fine with seeing someone prove me wrong tho

[@nicholashendrickson5754]

@@Loo0chpopping o

[@jtotherog]

@@Freeland-Farmmiter saws are safer too. Also a perfect square cut

[@hughgrection3052]

I drive around till I find a strung out beaver holding a "will work 4 fewd" sign up. I'll set him up with a tape measure and the problems fix themselves. 😂

[@christonacouch5550]

Nice trick but I got a Makita cordless, the edge of the shoe is an 1 1/4” from the blade 🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️And for everyone trying to correct your term usage..it’s actually called the saw’s “shoe”! Not guard, fence, or table. Go look it up!!

[@kerrybarneyiii1202]

Awe man I was so close, I’ve been calling it a ‘foot’ for so long 😂

[@christonacouch5550]

@@kerrybarneyiii1202 lol. I always called it the bench, or the fence. Incorrectly..

[@mjt1517]

You know what he meant. This isn’t rocket science.

[@christonacouch5550]

@@charlesminter1622 really doesn’t matter where I’m from or what I call it, because the entire point of the post that different people call it different things, but that I’m letting you know what the correct technical term for it is. It is either shoe or base plate. If you have any actual source or documented information showing it officially being called a table , bench, fence, guard, or whatchyamacallit I would def be interested in seeing it! One thing it is most definitely not called is a table, musta been some mediocre crews u were workin with 🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️🤔

[@Gastly_Ghost]

⁠@@charlesminter1622 well the manufacturers call it a shoe in the manuals they always have. Just because Jim bob calls it one thing doesn’t mean it’s right 😂.

[@jamesoncross7494]

A chop saw with a stop is much better. You can cut 500 of them in a nice heated shop and bring them to the job site. Saves a ton of time.

[@jaywiebe7612]

If you have a shop and a chop saw with a stop. I slap a jig together and we cut blocking on site as we go with scraps and the most crooked boards. End up with very little waste.

[@DamnDirtyIrish]

I just make the greenie do it.

[@benjurqunov]

Pre cut in the shop is the best. This guy's method is ok when you only need a few. But despite that he doesn't know shit about the parts of a saw and really shouldnt say 1-1/2" distance when saws vary a little.

[@justinlast2lastharder749]

You never precut before taking it to the Job. That's how you end up having to buy new material...

[@rh6761]

I think you wanted to say ‘miter saw’ (vs chop saw)

[@patton303]

The way I do it is find any guy named Guillermo who drives a green 2009 F-150 with a Tamaulipas sticker on the back window.

[@AntonioContrerassr]

If any body can a mexi can.😂

[@JayLupe]

And he'll do it with a beer in his left hand

[@tedebayer1]

if we build a border wall then who is going to do the labour? Sure isnt going to be this generation

[@TheDotransporter]

Lol, those guys are monkeys!

[@muamer4140]

It’s always green

[@joshnicolaysen6573]

That’s assuming that each 16” on center stud was perfectly placed! This method you pretty much guarantee that the cut matches the spacing! Love it!

[@tipmn2979]

Doesn’t matter what the measurement is…you’re doing it in the corners…and even if your doing it otherwise if ya hold just off flush and do that trick it will work perfectly. Is a really good trick to learn! 👍🏻

[@munch762]

This would not pass in Ireland, you'd be smacked hard if you did that on your first attempt

[@RX793]

You didn't understood what he said, it doesn't matter the spacing of the studs

[@John-v8v6b]

it would work either way?? how do you not understand what you’re commenting on lol

[@VirgoProgrammer]

huh, if its not 16" on center then its NOT RIGHT. So you just gonna slap some shit together like that to cover up the fact that its not up to code?

[@matthewwoody4114]

I just set up a miter saw with a framing blade, mark the length on fence after your first cut then you can go way faster than any jig and can cut 2-3 at the same time with precision.

[@edwardallen2696]

I know you don’t frame because framers don’t have miter saws 😂😂😂😂😂😂

[@matthewwoody4114]

@@edwardallen2696 you’re right. General Contractor In a rural area actually, gotta have all the tools and be good at everything because the subs aren’t coming to save you out here😂😂

[@edwardallen2696]

@@matthewwoody4114 jack of all trades. master of none

[@matthewwoody4114]

@@edwardallen2696 The full quote by Shakespeare is, "A jack of all trades is a master of none, but oftentimes better than a master of one." And I’d bet I’d school you all day any day on more than poetry boy.

[@edwardallen2696]

@@matthewwoody4114 I don’t do peasant work anymore I build line.

[@chrismartin7747]

I've always framed with a chopsaw on sight, its the 'diva' thing to do but i prefer quicker, cleaner cuts

[@jisezer]

90% of the time you're just making things more accurate than they need to be and spending more time to do the same cut

[@ACLz28]

​@jisezer what if he was building your house? You want crooked ass cuts and joints that don't meet up right? Or you want it right?. Now saying that, it can also be done right with a circular saw if you know what your doing and your good. But in my experience if you use a circular saw on the job site like in this video you are opening yourself for a potential dangerous problem. Like saw kickback and lose a finger or worse. Chop saw can eliminate most of that.. but it does burn up a little more time. Especially on bigger jobsites

[@chrismartin7747]

@@jisezer cutting a hip on a chop saw is much easier for the average person. The chop saw isnt the only saw used either its just for precision cuts mainly, especially rafters.

[@ryzae6202]

Thats insane bro no one does that on large scale jobs. Womdrive cut off the stack dont stop the saw keep running it

[@jisezer]

@@ACLz28 no, as a contractor I can say I definitely DON'T want him building my house. Studs are cut to 1/16 of an inch tolerance. If you can't use a Skil saw to cut studs, welp don't be a framer

[@ausable92]

He's highly suspect. What kind of psychopath hangs their hammer in front when there is a perfectly placed ring at his back?

[@bmXadie]

Non contortionists.

[@JasonLuther1]

I bet he uses the ring for his nailgun

[@JasonLuther1]

I use the front leather hammer loop for impacts, tin snips and other random shit

[@pb7133]

I had one in the front. But that was only for if I couldn’t get to the one in my back. You put it in the back so you can grab your hammer with either hand how ever you are standing.

[@armandhammer9617]

I'm old school one 4 pouch bag on the right and hammer on the left

[@Dane-bootsNcatsN]

Regardless of what you pointed at or the keelee gap you had, the method you used is quick accurate and efficiant if you didn't leave it a little off flush. Great tip

[@PerroneFord]

The other nice thing about this is you can cut your specials in place the same way. Or cut for 24" O.C. or anything else.

[@Mr._Infamous]

Efficient* and thorough of which you seem not to be.

[@chadtucker2875]

Anything to do with the deck of your saw, only applies when the saw is new. As soon as the saw is dropped or someone loads something on top of your saw. The deck of the saw is usually bent or manipulate somehow. Always watch the blade when you cut a board. Your cut will always be on your mark when watching the blade, as a posed to using the deck as your guide.

[@adamsechrest4349]

Never listen to a man who wears skinny jeans tucked into boots on a jobsite.

[@MatthewDawson-i3o]

At least he's not wearing gloves.

[@RedSnakeGT500]

If that's all you got to criticize, then he must know his stuff

[@vVNoble6Vv]

He’s clearly in a snowy environment that would require one to tuck in his pants to prevent moisture crawling up his pants and then getting into his boots

[@BB-ep5xv]

why?

[@Wheres_my_hat_]

That stiletto ain’t ever been used it’s a fashion accessory 😂

[@Repent702]

Old school. Been doing that blocking cut for 55 years. good to see youngsters doing this on KZbin 😊

[@BrandenRossman]

Finger on the trigger while touching the blade is a game you can only play 10 times. 😂

[@ICT_Anton]

😆

[@mikekristin7201]

A game you can only lose 10 times

[@Canadarian]

Saw has a safety switch by the thumb that has to be pressed before being able to pull the trigger

[@joshuashackleford739]

@@Canadarian Guns have a safety switch too

[@MB-dz8qm]

Fits perfectly as it falls through the gap. 😂 I love his energy.

[@comcastdavidr]

Right, should have just put it flush

[@kaizer9455]

You've never built anything of importance.

[@frankedgar6694]

@@comcastdavidrI’m not a framer but putting it flush would mean it would not go INTO the space. It would be too long.

[@jacobsebastien3910]

I wish i was too long 😭​@@frankedgar6694

[@chrislull670]

@frankedgar6694 lol you don't even know what flush is wtf are you even doing here?!

[@travisdoe4663]

Or you could set up a stop on your chop saw and cut them all at 14 and 3/8 or 22 and 3/8

[@kratonkeith1863]

That's what I do...because in the end 16 on center regardless of warped studs gotta be put in place even with cats/cripples or "shoe blocks"

[@ianholmquist8492]

No framer uses a chop saw

[@travisdoe4663]

@@ianholmquist8492 lol, ya ok. Maybe no blow and go track home housing development framers do.. And it shows in the quality

[@mjolnirswrath23]

​@ianholmquist8492 working with timbers you do and beam Saws

[@mjolnirswrath23]

​@@travisdoe4663actually I broke out a chop saw on the drive site cordless to cut up blocks on track homes and it made a hell of a difference Preparation favors the victorious

[@Nameentered]

That or you could have a chopsaw set up and just cut em with a stop set in place because they shoild all be the same measurement anyway

[@AidanSmitfishing]

With today’s lumber that’s not for sure. A stud that’s an 1 3/8 or 1 5/8 and that’ll mess your blocking up real quick

[@jkpaschal]

@@AidanSmitfishing yeah man, it's hard to get decent lumber without going through every piece. Even getting orders from specialty suppliers has been a shit show.

[@kennethklug5002]

Only if the base framing is uniform, which it probably isn't. If this guy did it

[@devonfuginowskinstien7500]

Who the fuck uses a chop saw for framing? Sounds like a homeowner life hack

[@kennethklug5002]

@@devonfuginowskinstien7500 maybe he's thinking miter saw. Which would work in the same manner and probably more accurate.

[@josho4971]

More accurate at the bottom plate ,

[@chrislull670]

Hes close enough

[@scoobertdooberson3542]

Either plate, it's the same... If laid out probably, lmao

[@bartbullock7817]

Old school here, Framed custom homes in north dallas, In the early 80's. We completely removed the safeties on our saws, and so did every crew I ever worked with,(4). Nobody ever got so much as a nick. I am aware this wouldn't fly these days... We also wired The safety back on our nail guns, People have a tendency to bounce the gun, When the safety is operating. Plus.. People will walk around with their finger on the trigger, Rellying on the safety to fire the nail, Not a good thing if you Accidentally Stumble ,and bump some thing, A nail will shoot and hit somebody. I remember a story in the news, From dallas, A man was walking the joist, On the incomplete second floor, When when he stumbled, The safety on the nail gun fired a nail, It ricochet and centered a man's head, Doctor said if it wasn't exactly centered like it was, It would have killed him instantly. They showed the x-ray in the news, The nail was completely flush, The man finished the day at work, Complained of a headache. I have never heard even one story of anybody on framing job getting hit with an errant nail, With the safety's pinned back. It also makes it much easier to toenail a windbrace, When setting walls.

[@ragingrevenge1]

If the framing is on 16” centers, cut your blocks @ 14 3/8” . They fit every time.

[@lh98]

You mean 14 and 6 little lines right? 😂

[@allenmcnamara9213]

I always use 7/16 but you're absolutely right. Call out the specials to the cut man on the ball he already had those ready to

[@allenmcnamara9213]

Not to mention the fact that you can't measure blocks at the midspan blocking line they have to be measured at the plate unless every piece of material is perfect

[@DamnDirtyIrish]

Ah. You can smell the experience on this guy. Hired!

[@ragingrevenge1]

@@DamnDirtyIrish I know right? 😂

[@bhill221]

Well hey…..for people that don’t do this everyday, he sure taught me a trick and I appreciate it!

[@john1247thedog]

For people who don't do it every day, they never do it. The stud is 1 , 9/16" wide. The block is 14 , 3/8". Nuff said.

[@samcarver317]

You can also scribe the blocks. Scribe it flip it over cut it repeat.

[@AndrewLeeW1]

"Set it almost flush" so....guess.

[@AeyoWolf]

Anything under a half inch is “almost flush” 😂

[@Centermass762]

Yeah, that's pretty much how everything but finish work is.

[@johngarner5704]

Yeah. . And hold it kind of square. .

[@nimnogaparus]

My dude if you can't feel almost flush with your finger you need a different hobby, and maybe an MRI. There's no guessing involved. It's not rocket science

[@AeyoWolf]

@@nimnogaparus MRI 😂

[@andrewwatson5360]

Easiest way is to space your studs using a correctly cut trimmer (spacer) as you nail them that way all the trimmers can be cut to length except the last one which is cut to fit the last gap. No dangerous messing around with a saw in hand trying to cut on top of a frame on the ground. Leaning over trying to cut a piece of balanced wood on the ground with a spinning blade is asking for trouble. Its too easy to have the blade jamb and the saw kickback into you leg/foot.

[@PerroneFord]

So here's me at 4:30am going to the shop and pulling a tape on blade to guard distance on my Skilsaw... Man, I learn something new EVERY DAY on the internet!

[@TRUvoodoo]

I've never seen this trick, I think it should be explained though you should measure near the top or bottom, that way your blocks are going to be accurate to how big the space should be. If you measure in the middle, your studs could be bowed and you might be cutting a 14" block or whatever.

[@nunyabisnus5479]

I read through the comments already and I think what’s needed to be said has been taken care of. But whatever works for you. If your work is flawless in the end and done in an efficient manner doesn’t always matter how you get there. To each his own.

[@lhtsnakes1]

Do you need to do this if you know you're spacing at 16 or 18" every time?

[@reese3407]

You need to go to the bottom. That's where the accurate measurements at so it'll stay square

[@anthonymorales842]

The bottom plate? I agree

[@chrislull670]

He was like a foot up from the bottom. That's not guna make enough of a difference to matter unless you're framing with pretzels

[@ole-bboy5875]

Yep bottom plate where the layout is. @@anthonymorales842

[@Denbar137]

I just use a tape measure. Those should be slightly snug not loose enough to fall through. If it falls through that easily, there’s a gap.

[@tacklebox6239]

We got rookie of the year over here, thinking that he’s teaching us something

[@davidwayne5152]

He thanks you for your vote😂 R.O.Y. 😂😂😂

[@kinkytailmopogo3389]

U would be suprised how many guys on the site do not know this

[@matthewsongs1023]

Know what, how to incorrectly cut blocks?

[@kindaweird1]

Framing square at the horses, standing up sraight not all hunched over cutting all commons 14 3/8. Mass produce. Good saw man will have a stock pile of all common cut parts waiting for the what we use to call " Nail drivers" to install. Don't know what they call themselves now cause nobody drives nails anymore. 😂😂😂😂

[@Hyp3rion]

Show us how to do it then with your own video champ.

[@Keep.it.simple643]

I’ve used different saws and they measured different depths from the footplate edge. Good tip though. I’d probably use a chop saw if I have to do a bunch. Or make a jig.

[@identity7782]

Your little sister called, says she wants her clothes back.

[@larryarger9173]

😂😂

[@frankierzucekjr]

Id rather measure, also you might wanna be lower down closer to your plate incase its bowed. But i like the trick for something quick or for something temporary.

[@Real_jharvey]

Good little trick but I always do it from close to the plate so when I nail it helps keep studs straight

[@kaynesantor8136]

Bro, I been in the field doing flooring. Tile and wood mostly, for over 20 years. I've never seen or heard this. This is fucking sweet, dude. Very good. Thanks for the tip(thatswhatshesaid). Much love. Be well.

[@Chris-ri4xx]

Whenever I come up short I just grab the ol yellow handled board stretcher! Works like a charm every time 👍🏻

[@tony2tone884]

It's right next to the blinker fluid..

[@DoGnarlyStuff]

Thanks for the tip!

[@renenava5213]

He is learning too so let him get more experience

[@ralphriffle1126]

When a bay is over ten feet, a block is required to stop lateral deflection. There bays next to door and window opening most be blocked. It's the code

[@dbackhusker]

Don’t do it mid-span, this needs to be done close to the bottom or top of the wall because of potential bowed studs

[@danielerenae]

I like that. I’m an old framer and years ago I learned these youngsters do come up with some great new ideas. Never stop learning

[@Another_Story_1]

The way you are doing the plunge cut makes a nice square cut as well. That should be highlighted about this technique.

[@Sam-h9c7e]

This is so funny how all these guys go on KZbin and they talk about this and talk about that, but I’ve never met one contractor in my life that was honest and good and actually really knew what they are doing

[@john1247thedog]

You work how you live. It says alot about who you hang out with. A man looks you in the eye, and testifies. You probably never met a man.

[@quinnalangallup9498]

Great pro tip for most walls; high bent wood gaps my happen occasionally. A frames; tables, table saws and jigs can cut for more precise needs, such as alternated truss blocks.

[@paulrobinson5833]

Thats why its called rough framing.

[@FranciscoRuelas-th3sp]

Exactly, thank you sr

[@LEPersonal-pf5wz]

cool, but dont you also need to account for the blade width as well?

[@drfiddles]

Every circ saw manufacturer has a different distance between the end of the shoe-plate and the blade.

[@chuckbuttons0699]

I have one that's 1 1/4" and another that 1.5 and a left hand one that's 1 1/8th. Idk why he thinks they're all 1.5. 😅

[@alejandroperez4909]

Some are even 1 5/8”

[@seamac7564]

Question. If the distance between the verticals is consistent, why can't you measure and precut the horizontals?

[@cwally1994]

That's the table, not the guard. Every framer needs to know this. PS: both blocks you cut were too short.

[@chrislull670]

No first one was fine

[@AJ_900]

First one was perfectly fine, if you want it more snug then put it flush instead of almost-flush like he did.

[@freedombro6502]

First block was legit , common bro

[@toxicated3622]

im with you they were both too short. first one you might be able to let go and nail it but if you had a whole wall of those. all your studs would be sucking in

[@chrislull670]

@@toxicated3622 no they won't

[@BB-ep5xv]

that's a really good tip. worth verifying the 1.5 offset on the baseplate of the saw. most of my circ saws are offset like this but at least one of them isn't. also worth knowing the standoff of the other side which is usually 3.5. comes in real handy

[@gumecindogarcia1070]

I wouldn't even go to work in that weather

[@JasonLuther1]

It ain't raining man!

[@gumecindogarcia1070]

@@JasonLuther1 too cold for me!

[@ICT_Anton]

Or the grocery store, because you would be broke

[@gumecindogarcia1070]

@@ICT_Anton I keep a lion lifestyle. Hang out and wait on the best customer. Of course doubg this allows me to help the less fortunate also

[@johnbannister501]

I just woke up....saw your video...and learned something new!! Have a Great Day!!

[@darinhampel4149]

The second technique is the way I learned back in the early 80's. We had no gaps. He had gaps on both cuts. There's no substitute for skill and experience.

[@chrislull670]

That little gap means nothing. If you think it does you're an armchair framer

[@darinhampel4149]

@chrislull670 lol, I've been framing for over 40 years kid, if you can't fit a simple block properly, you lack the skills to build anything else. That's the problem with with so many people, no pride in their work. No one will remember how fast you build, they will always remember how nice or shitty you build. Don't be a hack.

[@adgarcia37]

And how you going to fix your blocks pushing your wall out 3/4 on both side?

[@bobbyfischer6786]

Both were short

[@chucks.9410]

Do you get any work done, or do you video other work sites?

[@HumilityListens]

Dont worry kid is making money👍👍

[@SamuelGeist]

​@@HumilityListensI don't care about him, I'm worried about whoever's house he's supposed to be working on. Sloppy shortcuts, guesstimating distances, incorrect terminology... This guy is a over the place.

[@zachlehkyi9951]

That gap was big enough to do a cartwheel in

[@carlosf9278]

Lemme know when you’ve successfully done your cartwheel in that gap then… and send a link to the vid as well👀

[@jimmywatts8219]

“Fit perfectly Rattles and falls to the floor

[@chrislull670]

@jimmywatts8219 that's the perfect fit. You don't know what you're doing so you shouldn't even be commenting

[@jimmywatts8219]

@@chrislull670you reported my comment you coward.

[@zachlehkyi9951]

@@chrislull670 NO YOU

[@MrDiabeeto]

My circular saw is 1 9/16 from blade to edge of shoe. I’ve had a Milwaukee that was 1 5/16. Not all are the same. Important to know when you’re doing finish work.

[@alienartpop]

This is why you read every page of the manuals that come with tools. Never assume you know everything, you will only miss out on advancements in tool design.

[@kchernobyl9113]

this is a cool trick but you don't want to do it mid span of your wall in case the studs are bowed you want the layout to match top bottom and middle everything parallels so make sure you account for this if you have a change in layout. also if you frame it correctly on layout you should be able to cut standard blocks at 14 3/8' or 14 7/16" whatever your preference. of coarse 22 3/8" or 22 7/16" for 2' centers

[@bmc2828]

With every video of yours I become more and more convinced you are well on your way to a job at Home Depot

[@flemlock942]

From the guard to the blade is an 1 1/2" plus the blades an 1/8" so you're an 1/8" short every time. Maybe good enough for framing.

[@jlm3303]

Framing for 6 months... knows everything.... The alternative way to do this is put down the camera and get your ass back to work!

[@klaus1029]

Amen brother

[@mikepotter4141]

Measure so you know and its squared up good. Just set the saw for the length and cut the number.

[@scotty362100]

Looks like your idea of "perfect" and most of ours is miles apart! You STILL had a 1/4" gap on your block. That is because you aren't allowing for the width of the blade, and pulling 1/8" from flush on the stud edge! WHY would you not perfect your "method" before "teaching" us the improper way?!?

[@renenava5213]

Right

[@Nomorehypocrisy4]

Make sure to hold the piece at a 99.43 degree angle. It helps guard against the little things try into to sneak inside your head at night. Or was it 99.44?

[@ronniemac8667rm]

But do it at the very top or very bottom of the studs because if either stud has a croock or "bow" in it, it will make the length inaccurate. Framing is sone hard work but very rewarding! I framed houses for 25+ years. Loved it......hard on the body though! Great content bro, keep it comin!!

[@Bassinman200]

1 1/2" isn't a set measurement, some shoes are further from or closer to the blade teeth, and some blades make thicker or thinner kerf cuts, especially the older corded circular saws. More recent cordless saws may all be exactly 1 1/2", I haven't measured them all. My corder 7 1/2" Skil measures 1 1/4" so the cut would be off by 1/4". My cordless 6 1/2" Craftsman measures 1 3/4" which is another one that is 1/4" off but to the opposite side. My cordless 6 1/2" DeWalt measures 1 3/8" which is 1/8" off, not enough to worry about, but still, all three have different measurements. I would suggest you measure your particular saws shoe to an outside tooth for proper distance just to be sure.

[@johnsargent3346]

OK I am not going to take advice like that. Typically a whole wall needs to be fire blocked for structure and reduce the speed of electrical fires down below.

[@Waterboysplash]

Im an auto mechanic and found this tip to be fire 🔥

[@alabamaoffshorefishing]

I’ve been using a 60v rear-handle Dewalt for two years now, and it’s the best saw I’ve ever owned. She’s definitely the queen of the jobsite.

[@greghujing5692]

DeWalt didn't come out 60 years ago I've been framing for 45 years and it wasn't out then

[@alabamaoffshorefishing]

@@greghujing5692 60 volt saw, not 60 years old.

[@greghujing5692]

My bad

[@daneo617]

Won't most be the exact same size (14 1/2) if it's framed correctly ?

[@reubprue8602]

Damn, you just saved me a lot of work. Thx!

[@woody94fun]

Totally Awesome, Thanx for sharing your knowledge. Many people do not do this.

[@ThomasBeck-m3b]

Close, but you need to hold wood up at plate to ensure proper length (studs are not perfectly straight)

[@mixedwithfun4495]

The almost flush sounds key. What range of sizes are the up rights?

[@joshlove8161]

All of your stud cavities are the same size, except around openings and the end of the wall. Use a framing square, Mark out a bunch of blocks at 14 1/2 inches and then cut on the short side of the line so The thickness of the blade leaves a little bit of extra room.

[@tomasmcenery5905]

A nice measure of presumption in that method I'd have to say after 26yrs experience here in Ireland where bridging and blocking is compulsory for all studs and joisting, with rows no more than 1200mm apart, so I've cut alot over the yrs

[@kevinrichter7971]

Honestly a great tip!

[@Extremefishingnz]

We call them nogs we do 2 rows everywhere. But once the frames are standing. Makes everything easier.

[@scottweathersby6659]

It's actually 1/16 less because the blade is 1/8. If framing is correct every block except around doors,windows,corners is the exception. Based on 16 in center the blocks should be 14 1/2.

[@jonathanmcadams-nx5zp]

Gap the studs accurately and precisely. Then make a jig with a piece of plywood and some 2x4s and set the blade depth so you dont cut into the plywood and you only cut the 2 inches needed. And make them all at once and if you have any inconsistency go back and do those in the end. You can cut them with the chopsaw 4 at a time deoending on your saw. 😊

[@4WheelingInNSW]

Even better is measure it and cut it perfectly with a drop saw, not with a handheld circular saw 👍

[@travisjackson2354]

I love your pro tip that’s on point, but why do you have a Hurley shirt on? In middle of snow?

[@simpleagain1]

Nice boots bro. Obviously waterproof. Are they warm? What type are they and how much do they cost?

[@kirk422]

Good tip. I always go 14 3/8+" on 16"oc they always grow and push. I had to have the flexvolt worm drive but im lefty and felt more comfortable using the old flexvolf circ. We used to sheath them then stand them. Pull 16's when nailing and make sure it's dead square in form

[@daniel9503]

How about using a tape and doing the job right?

[@vmwindustries]

Great tip!

[@toxicbear4792]

That's a good trick thank you by the way how do you like that DeWalt Worm Drive

[@benwilms3942]

So how far from flush do you place it?

[@TEXAS.N8V]

great tip, looks like it works better than flushing it to the inside of the stud.

[@ryandubnicka8360]

Sometimes those studs are bowed and twisted. Just measure and write it at the top plate. Mark them all with your framing square, and the whole wall is done in one shot.

[@alberthaleycoley9611]

See now this is some helpful shit bro appreciate it

[@garethmyname]

Best way to have bent studs. one plum stud. and the rest at the same measure will pull the studs straight.

[@jessemichael7467]

Can't wait to try this!

[@andrewbeeler2290]

All Good and we'll, until your wall has a ¾ inch bow and it's already sheathed. Just wait until it's sheathed and bang em in. A good framer should be able to do that in a timely fashion.

[@wrdennig]

Nice trick . . . this used to be called registration. The idea was that it's easy to make small errors when using a tape measure. But if you hold up the material in the position where it's going to be and mark and cut, you're less likely to make a mistake.

[@davewylie654]

Been doing it for longer than he has been alive and I learned something here tonight!! Pretty slick man