Best portable solar panel? Testing the best 10-80w solar panels on Amazon

[@josepholiver6733]

It’s good that there’s someone out there testing theses thangs so people who have to some day trust them with there life don’t have to

[@outdoorsman2b918]

I can't thank you enough for this video. I have family in the Caribbean where hurricanes are common. At times they have been without power for weeks, in a few ocassions for up to three months. After 2017 Hurricane Maria, I started sending them preparedness items (camping lamps and batteries, generators, etc). I sent them a small solar panel like these to charge a cell. I will upgrade them with at least three of your recommended choices. Probably by a couple for me for camping and backpacking.

[@robertmelton5484]

The detail this guy always goes through makes him one of my favs

[@todd.parker]

Thanks Robert, I appreciate that

[@Nick-bo6rz]

I had a question why not use the 60 W solar panel to charge a smaller power bank (like 10000 mah) Is it due to Compatibility issues?

[@4TheMostHighJesus]

Wow, you deliver tons of information about the specs on these panels and made it easy for a person to pick the right panel for their portable power needs. Thank you. 🙂

[@Mapleaple]

Beware that most Anker power banks won't charge at its full speed due to its smart chip not allowing solar panels to perform at its faster PD rates even if they are capable. You would need to use a plugged-in Anker PD usb C plug to achieve its faster charge rates via only their product. Many of my solar panels are from 5w, 15w, 21w, 60w, 100w, and 200w solar panels, only 1 worked at the correct speed and an Anker. So I blame Ankers smart read chips for not recognizing 3rd party control chargers on solar panels.

[@David-mf8yo]

Best review I've seen. Thorough yet easy to understand. Well done.

[@shwartz166]

This video was amazing! I have been waiting for it since you made the micro solar charging video, and I was not disappointed! with your help I chose the flexsolar 40 W, and looking at the anker 737 since then. Looking forward for your next videos!

[@todd.parker]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@Nick-bo6rz]

My other question is I see the Sun jack solar panels, have waterproof ports if I’m dealing with a solar panel that only has the casing that’s waterproof then I still have a problem in rain because the zippers might not be waterproof and it will get in the ports and ruin the electronics. Do you know of a solution if this is the case? Ty

[@Jasonoid]

Awesome collection of micro solar panels! Super useful information in this video for someone looking for a compact setup! Thanks, Todd!

[@todd.parker]

Thanks Jason. It was a lot of testing behind the scenes to figure out a winner. USB-C is super tricky to measure because of all the quirks. Now I need to figure out what to do with all these panels...

[@litnoregrets7551]

Great review. I know I can’t always trust manufacture output claims, so to have someone test them is great. I have been leaning towards the Flexsolar 40W because it had a PD output, which is nice for charging my small power station. Now I need to consider the Big Blue 30 after your review. Thank you so much.

[@todd.parker]

Both are good options for sure

[@wealthofknowledge]

I have always had luck with the SunJack panels. Thanks for the thorough review.

[@andrewm1606]

Same here. The durability is pretty solid, I've run mine through hell and back the last couple of years and it's still just as powerful as when I got it.

[@todd.parker]

Yeah, their panels just feel so well built compared to anything else and they are a good company too

[@Nick-bo6rz]

Are there any 100w (or more ) solar panels that you could recommend that are compatible with usb phone / power bank charging?

[@wealthofknowledge]

@@Nick-bo6rz As panels get bigger they often lose USB connectivity. It's difficult to find a high-wattage one that has what you need. What kind of power bank are you charging?

[@Nick-bo6rz]

Nitecore nb 10000 second gen. And egretech 24 w solar power bank.

[@solarpowerlifestyle]

This is a great review of all of the products and their features. Great value here. Thanks Todd!

[@todd.parker]

Glad it was helpful!

[@SilvaB9430]

Keep up the reviews! Tham you, you make buying less like a shot in the dark!

[@Zkpe02]

The new SunJack 60w Solar Panels now comes with kick stands so now you can get the right sun angle..

[@SmartZero-f8e]

Btw: For charging a simple, single phone i recommend a simple 8W-Solarpanel which has 4 small POLY-panels. These are better for low light and get higher voltage in low light which is better for phone-charging. And thus you really get 8W (5V @ 1.6A) out of them when it´s sunny enough. In most times you only get 6W though. Yet it only costs ~20 Euro!

[@tribela]

Quick summary: With ideal condition, solar panels itself can produce its advertised wattage on DC jack output, But USB doesn't. USB output has 40%-60% of its capacity. Also, power output could be dropped if the panel is too hot Great video. Thank you for the great review

[@todd.parker]

Good summary. DC is always the way to go with f you have a device with a charge controller, yep.

[@jjmag3107]

This vid is just watt I’m looking for. Great info and presentation. Thanks for posting it.

[@todd.parker]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@ChonbaeSun]

For small powerstation carry use. Instead of a the traditional bifold 60watt. I ended up going for two trifold 30watts hooked together in parallel via 5.5mm cables. At first I tried the Bigblue 30watt in the video, it needed an adapter to connect the 5.5mm splitter cable. I ended up going for the ActuEgo 30watt which is of similar design, but no need for an adapter, and the USB ports are covered in a pocket.

[@georgespehar8214]

Very good video. Just the right amount of information.

[@todd.parker]

Glad you think so!

[@edwinthomas618]

I just discovered your channel and I LOVE IT thus subscribed. I like your indepth and money saving POV to customers like me who might be new to this technology or gain more knowledge. 😅

[@todd.parker]

Welcome aboard, glad you like my stuff

[@jonesnbones]

Very helpful video. Went with a refurb Flexsolar 20 watt for a backpack setup.

[@tiagon19]

Hey Todd! Now FlexSolar released a new 20W with 5v x 3amps = 15W from the USB-C, eliminating that low 10W output limit for the 15w to 20W panels category. I got this new 20W and it works great, usually a 14W output is normal, 15W when conditions are really perfect!

[@afnaanameer9111]

Can you share me the Amazon link of this exact item . How fast are you able to charge a 20000 mah power bank with this 20w

[@tiagon19]

@@afnaanameer9111 About a 20.000 unit I would not know, but I can charge a Baseus heavy PowerBank/Car Jump unit of 16.000 mah between 4 and 5 hours. Note that I m in tropical sun light. I ll post the link here.

[@Gargovi]

Wonderful review, thank you for this.

[@sharonbradford4494]

I would use a small one and a 40,000 mAh battery to power USB string lights

[@tiagon19]

TIP: In order to to keep the cel phone or the PowerBank out and far from the hot sun, I use an extension USB cable 3m(9ft) long, over here in Brazil! It works great! Sure, the longer the cable, the more electrical resistance there will be, so sometimes I use a 1m(3ft) long extension cord.

[@cxsey8587]

Wish some of the smaller panels had a dc connection for more efficient charging of the battery banks

[@StreetSweepinEJ]

Thank you for this review! This was very helpful! and informative i am subscribing and probably gonna grab a few of these panels!

[@todd.parker]

Thanks for the sub!

[@tiagon19]

TIP FOR LIGHWEIGHT TRIPOD (KINDA...): I use a Nite Ize Gear Tie, about 18in long, in a "W" format, it creates any angle I want towards the sun, and a non-slippery base for the panel. It never breaks, it bends. It could even be used to hang it somewhere. Probably there are other formats for this moldable wires. Just imagine the middle of the "W" supporting the central part of the panel, bent backwards not to fall...get creative! It works.

[@todd.parker]

Clever

[@balint_szoke]

Very good test! 👍🏼 8 months ago I bought 30W Bigblue SolarPowa, and yes, it was a very good choice, mainly it's for trips and camping without car, and it's really very well portable and effective solar panel with his 1,1 kg. The only thing which I regret, that it can't charge 30W via USB C port, it gives "only" 19,5 W, so yes, surely I have to buy an Anker 737 e.g. to charge it with 27-30W via DC port, and after charge the laptop with this power bank and not directly from solar panel (because yes, it can even charge a power laptop directly via USB C, even if it's only 18-19,5W max).

[@todd.parker]

The 737 doesn't have a DC input so you're limited to USB-C PD charging from a solar panel. Only the 60w panel I tested offers that so you need to get a much larger panel if you want faster charging, unfortunately

[@balint_szoke]

@@todd.parker Thank you for your answer Todd! Oh, what a pity! I really loved this Anker 737, I planned to buy one, so I have to choose someone else. When I purchased this Solarpowa 30W, I also bought a Shargeek Storm 2, which is very nice with good specs, also with DC port and a lot of features, but in reality it’s a shit!💩 I had to send it back, because there was 0,160 V so 160 mV between the battery 🔋 when it was full charged, and even if I discharged and charged again more times, the situation didn’t change! 1. That means this power bank didn’t supervised one by one the cells, and this is a big mistake! 2. Also there wasn’t a check in the factory that the cells be on the same voltage level, which is very-very important. Voilà what I wrote to them: “They deliver you a high priced top product with defective batteries! ☹️ As much as I expected this product, it was such a big disappointment! At the brand new Shargeek Storm 2 - When I started the device at first time, it wrote me 87Wh max capacity 😕. - The cell voltage of 3 of the 4 pairs of batteries (see screenshot) is ~160 mV lower than that of the 4th (this is the only good pair of the 4), this is an amazingly bad value 0.160V, and this status (the strong voltage difference) stays at any SOC, while in the factory description the largest difference between cell pairs is only 0.007 V (see screenshot from the ismer manual). - Above 60% state of charge (SOC) the device cannot be charged more than 4,6 Watt with any charger, adapter, cable or solar panel, but after 70% it’s only 1 Watt, which are ridiculously week values. - The device cannot be charged more than 76%. - Via DC cable I couldn’t charge the device more than 8 watt. I’m very upset and disappointed with this such a well designed, well thought out, so beautiful device, even more because I ordered it for our trip to Croatia, but it gives a very week performance, I can’t use it properly, in a normal way, just only 20-60%, and even here at low power. I don’t understand how is it possible that these problems didn’t come out immediately at the factory during the production starting with the defective batteries. “ I got this answer: “HI, Sorry for the late reply. Your feedback is very valuable, we'll feedback to our R&D department again . In subsequent product update iterations, we will fully consider suggestions from our customers. Thanks. Also, thank you for your patience and trust in us, have a good day Me: Hi, Thank you for your feedback, Ansley, and also for sent my feedback to R&D department, maybe they can involve it to the future Storm (3) and solve the charging méthode and structure in battery pairs according to the BMS data, thus bringing, balancing the battery voltages to the same level at each charge, cons: + more capacity, + more battery and device life, + less garantie issue, + more satisfied consumers => Purchasing much more devices I confess to you, I’m disappointed because I got money back from Amazon (in addition I got less back, than what I paid for, because I lost 4% when I bought the Storm 2, and again 4% when I got the money back, because here in Hungary there is Forint (HUF) and not Euro, so every time when they do an exchange between the Ft and €, they eliminate 4%) , and not got another Storm 2, what I wanted, even if I wrote to Amazon at the end of my short description why I send back the device (because it’s wrong), that I want a well-functioning Storm 2 to replace the wrong one what I sent back. So if I would like to buy another Storm 2, it would be already +12% + I got the money back on Monday and since HUF has been rapidly depreciated, so even more… Bad story. 😒 Best regards, Bálint Szőke * * * support: HI, We're very sorry for the inconvenience caused to you. We have passed your query back to the R&D department and received a reply. Although we cannot confirm the problem that the storm 2 can only be charged to 76, your feelings are very important to us, so we decided to provide you with a replacement service after discussion, please submit the replacement application directly to Amazon. In addition, your feedback is very valuable, and we will continue to improve our products in order to bring a better product experience.Thanks. Moreover, our technicians explained that because of the wiring of the battery structure, the actual displayed voltage of the fourth string will be slightly higher than the others, and the actual deviation is not that large, please don’t worry Sorry for the inconvenience again and hope to get your understanding. Have a good day. Me: Hi, Thank you for your more attention and forwarding my case to the R&D department. I didn't say that charge stops at 76% to say something, but because it really is, but you'll see when you test my device afterwards to learn from it, because I'll give it up tomorrow (send it back to Amazon). And as for the technicians and the fourth string: 170 mV is absolutely not slightly higher, on the contrary, it is particularly high, and nothing proves this better than the fact that THE DEVICE CHARGE EXACTLY FOR THIS REASON only up to 76-77% (otherwise if you would have noticed it from my photos I sent earlier, because that's why I sent them, that there was really only 1-1.5 Watts of charging, even though here the battery could still be charged with ten times that power on this level, 15 W, and yes, it did the same with 3 chargers, 65W, 27W, 5W, it only charged with 1-1.5 Watts at 74-76%, basically the charging stopped), because the 4th pair of batteries (4s2p) reached the critical maximum voltage a long time ago ~4 ,25V (while the other 3 pairs of batteries could still be charged), therefore the BMS stops charging. By the way, this also shows that the battery monitoring and charging system of the device is not enough good, because the BMS monitor can see the batteries pairs voltage differences*, but it could not balance them, the Storm2, at least the one I received, couldn’t do it at all, practically the initial deviation of 170 mV did not change. Already that during production, manufacturers pay attention to the fact that at a device (power bank) or electric car, etc. the voltage of the batteries should be very close to the same (in your user manual, for example, the max.difference is 7mV! between each pair {and yes, not accidentally, because this is a good device, it should be like that!}, mine is 24 times that, and this is what your technicians say, that “slightly” and “not that large”🤦🏻‍♂️ ), and the system is able to balance well with the help of the BMS and the structure to maintain this state. This state does not exist on my device, none of them, it's just wrong! I hope it will help to Shargeek to produce better devices. Please, we will forward this e-mail to the R&D department (technicians) as well, that will be useful for them. Thanks you. Best regards Bálint …

[@balint_szoke]

… and the end of our story: “Dear Ansley, I'm a chemical engineer, I've had and still have quite a few batteries to deal with, the properties of your/my Storm 2 device don't change one iota during each cycle (I've put already 6 cycles in it) and it won't, because simply wrong batteries were installed in it. If you are serious about the things you wrote about my case and this device after my infos given, then: 1. You did not understand the importance of the details of my letter supported by pictures. 2. You don’t really understand for Li-ion batteries, for the parallel and serial connection of the batteries in the device and for the BMS of the device, which manages the charging and minimum-maximum charge of the batteries, neither for your device*. For example, if a device can ONLY be charged up to 76% right at the beginning, when it was new (in addition, this situation has not changed at all since then, after 6 cycles!), with any charger, any cable, through any port, then that device is bad, and I have also described it to you, why (bad batteries, and the deltaV hasn't changed since then, the difference is 160 mV even after 6 cycles, which is a lot! This specifically means that while one battery pair is already charged in Shargeek, the other 3 battery PAIRS are still below 80% and the charge of Shargeek itself stops for that reason (as I said at 76%). Is there an engineer among you who can properly interpret my letter and pay attention to the details, or can you only give me such a superficial and extremely infuriating, childish answer?? I wanted another device instead of this wrong, one which is really works, but after your letter I gave up on it, because Shargeek and its support are not mature enough for what they sell and make the customer look stupid. I'm sorry, but I think I sent you a very detailed and exhaustive e-mail, with which you will be able to remedy the current problem in production, and therefore in the future other customers will no longer be as disappointed as I was, but I see that you are not doing anything with this, rather you are writing to me, stupid, brainwashed, cliché answer. A smart management would learn from my letter and take appropriate measures immediately. Sincerely, Bálint * * * Sorry for the late reply. For the capacity, the power detection device calculates instantaneous power, and after a few usage cycles, it should gradually approach the normal value of 92Wh. We have previously encountered cases where customers initially observed a reading of 72Wh, which normalized after several uses. We kindly request that you try using the product for a period of time. If any issues persist, please do not hesitate to contact us. For the voltage, it is normal for the battery voltage to fluctuate, not to be constant. The voltage in the user manual is just a screenshot of the voltage of the storm2 that we randomly put on it at a certain moment, not to say that it needs to be used as a standard For the charging power, the device power refers to the maximum peak power of the device, which does not mean that the device can maintain this maximum peak power all the time. As the power of the device being charged gradually increases, the charging power will gradually decrease. You can try again when storm2 is low on battery. And C1 is the maximum output port, you can use this port to charger your storm to save time. For the DC port, you can adjust the voltage you want, thus increasing input power. Thanks for your love and support to SHARGE, hope you have a go

[@jaxonryder]

Awesome video, I want to try and be more sustainable at home so thank you for sharing this info about these solar products!

[@todd.parker]

Glad it was helpful!

[@L0st-n0found]

1:52 curious why 40w at $84 is choice for powerbank and "upgrade pick" is only 30w with "same 18w" charge at more money?

[@todd.parker]

The upgrade pick has a kickstand that will angle it towards the sun for more output and it stays cooler and doesn’t overheat to give you more steady power

[@Darien-m6p]

You could prop it up with a stick smh ​@@todd.parker

[@afnaanameer9111]

Hi can we charge a 20000 mah power bank and then use it for a fan or light later from the flex solar 20w panel

[@waynechow7952]

Hello, thanks for the detailed information. Definitely great information to digest. I noticed when i check on amazon there was a Bigblue 30w upgraded and a Bigblue 30w new version but the specs looked the same. Any chance you know what the differences are if any?

[@chuloCFA]

Thank you sir. I will be checking out the BigBlue 30 over the FlexSolar 40 thanks to your recommendations. I would choose the Flex but some reviews mention the hinges having issues thus hindering the power supply. Have you switched from the FlexSolar 40 to the big blue 30 for your portable micro power station or do you still prefer the form factor of the Flex? Which would you say is better the SunJack 25 or the Big blue 30?

[@SolarPunk80]

Awesome video Todd! I just ordered the 40w flex solar from Amazon Italia it was for 65 euros! I live in an apartment without a balcony but my windows open and I get direct light in the morning on one side and in the afternoon on the other of my apartment, so I have found that FlexSolar’s 60w panel, which is a single semi rigid etfe lightweight metal board to be the most hassle free for all the back and forth setting up, also has a kickstand! I’m far from having mastered my system and admit that have seldom seen it pull over 40w, lately yes though! I also tend to be a bit lazy sometimes with propping it for the best angle from the window, mainly because securing it takes the priority, but I love that model, it being a single, sturdy, square metallic board, although roughly 2 ft on each side, does actually make it simpler to position! I know the 40w won’t have that particular advantage in form but I am super excited for it to get here I will designate it for charging small tablets or lanterns! 😊

[@todd.parker]

I'll have to check out their 60w panel, sounds like a good one. They are super basic but that's part of the appeal because they are simple and lightweight.

[@SolarPunk80]

@@todd.parkerI love it it still has those issues though with the port sharing I think, but it’s just so much easier to position being a single piece :^)

[@liamoflaherty4335]

Nice video, but even your ultra light options are way too heavy. I have comparing my 7 year old Renegy 10W folding panel (11.8 oz) to everything out there and I can't find one that will beat it in weight and power. I assume if the new USB-A 3.0 connection will allow more power into your power bank or the new USB-C options. Im a backpacker so weight/ power is critical for me. Love for someone to analyze the new Ultralight Solar panel options out there .

[@junkerzn7312]

Yah. I remember Goal Zero. They were one of the very early entrants in ultra-mobile solar, LED camp lights, and little power stations. Everything (from everyone) was expensive at the very beginning, but as time went on the industry evolved.... but Goal Zero did not. Goal Zero kept coming out with more and more expensive stuff and the quality went down substantially on every iteration. I was very disappointed. These days, this stuff is ridiculously cheap and the brands change like every few weeks it seems. It is hard to make a stand-out product. I don't think there is much of a point having a USB output on these tiny fold-out panels, though I understand the marketing approach. You leave so much of the available solar energy on the table that could have been stored when you use the USB ports. It just doesn't make a whole lot of sense without being paired with at least a little battery storage and so far nobody seems to do that. They could easily pair these fold-out panels with like 2 x LiFePO4 cells (6.4V nominal voltage) and it would make them a thousand times more useful. USB-C PD can only negotiate four different voltages and power levels, so it basically cannot match solar-only production and if it negotiates too high a power level and then can't deliver that amount of power, it has to shut-down and reset. Doesn't really make any sense without a battery guaranteeing the negotiated power level. So they have to low-ball the negotiation to get any sort of reliability. That one unit you tested that was having trouble was clearly not low-balling the negotiation. -- There are some "power bank" type devices with integrated solar cells on one face, and I like the concept, but they are all lithium-polymer instead of LiFePO4 (because their marketing is just stupid capacity nonsense), which makes them relatively dangerous and not very robust or long-lasting. I'd love to see a small LiFePO4 based power bank with an integrated solar cell. And in terms of power stations, I think there is only one relatively expensive power station that incorporates a built-in solar cell on the top (instead of the worthless wireless charging pads many of them have). A big "sigh" from me. For now the best combo for me is to still carry around a small power station and a 40W foldable to plug into it. I do like the EcoFlow River 2. The fan hysteresis and noise is kinda dumb, but its a great light power station otherwise.

[@haryanto88888]

Nice information, thank you. I use flexsolar 40w with flashfish a101, need 3 hours for full charging and able to charge my phone more than 5 time

[@Nick-bo6rz]

How well does the flex solar 40 W you speak of work and cloudy Wintertime conditions compared to direct sunlight could you give me a percentage please

[@dcfavorite]

This is by far the best solar panel video, awesome information! Just wondering though, can you recommend some solar panels for charging 30,000mah ~ 40,000mah power banks? Reason I'm asking is I notice there are several devices that goes up to that mah these days, from power banks to portable fans. (I have a 30,000mah power bank and a portable fan that also serve as a 40,000mah power bank)

[@todd.parker]

You’d want an 80-120w panel for a bigger power bank like that

[@dcfavorite]

Thanks 😀

[@THE_CHOAS_ENGINE]

Most good power stations come with cords in MC4 standard... I bought the powerness 80 because of your video but doesn't come with the industry standard mc4 connector... which is fine sorta, but they do not tell me what size there input cord is so I can't even properly buy an adapter to mc4. Yes it comes with a 4,6 and 8mm end but it's the OTHER end I need to know what it is... is it 10mm?

[@gianluigiprosdocimo8537]

I have good reviews of Sun Jack 60 watt , but have automatic restart? It happened to me with other products, to have to unplug the cable and reconnect the power bank, after the clouds had passed, that is, it was not set up for automatic restart, after the shadow areas. This creates problems if are not close to the panel. Thanks for the answers

[@northlink7]

Very insightful video, thanks Todd! Will the Powerness 80W charge the EcoFlow River 2 through USB-C PD or is an additional DC to XT60 cable required (as written in the description of the Powerness panel in the Amazon link)? Would love your thoughts on the EcoFlow 110W panel vs the Powerness 80W. Thank you and looking forward for more!

[@todd.parker]

Since the River 2 has a solar charger, you’d be better off using the DC output cable on the powerness since its USB output has s pretty limited. You’d just need to find an adapter to XT60. I think it’s definitely better designed than the Ecoflow

[@brucemurray2520]

Thanks for the great video. I also like my 737. Wish it had a DC output.

[@warren488]

I'm wondering if finding a way to shade the usb circuitry in the panel can be helpful?

[@cameraman1234567890]

The SolarFairy 30S is great as well since it has a bunch of good ports, but its out of stock everywhere

[@RadiantRichard]

Awesome, thanks!

[@schlehrbear]

Great info thank you!

[@todd.parker]

Glad it was helpful!

[@toetie2019]

1:53 it says on the panel "USB-C PD 2.0 40 watts"? While you mention 18w?

[@ThisJustIn81]

Oh, I just bought this awhile ago on amazon [Upgraded] BigBlue 3 USB Ports 28W Solar Charger(5V/4.8A Max), Portable SunPower Solar Panel for Camping, IPX4 Waterproof. Did I get a good one? I know the waterproofing and coating isn't as good as the one you showed but seemed to have good output.

[@glitchinglive]

what would be good to connect multiple of these together to get more power to like the anker thing u reviewed

[@wiegehtsdenn1234]

Can you charge a 20.000 powerbank with a 10W panel? Does it not work at all or will it just be very slow?

[@impermanenthuman8427]

What about the “Upgraded]BigBlue 3 USB Ports 28W Solar Charger(5V/4.8A Max), Foldable Portable Solar Phone Charger with SunPower Solar Panel Compatible with iPhone 11/Xs/XS Max/XR/X/8/7, iPad, Samsung Galaxy LG etc.” (listing on Amazon) Compared to the Bigblue 30W ETFE that you reviewed? The 28W is just 2W’s lower, but a lot lighter. I’m sure I’m missing something about the 30W version for it to be heavier and more expensive? 🤔

[@douglasmontgomery6315]

Thanks, what's your thoughts on this panel? LUMOPAL 60W Portable Solar Panels Folding Solar Charger with PD60W USB-C 5V USB-A QC3.0 DC18-20V, IP65 Waterproof for Camping Backpack Compatible with Phone Laptop Power Station

[@kingjameswilliamhowitt]

How do you charge your phone? I have a power bank that I charge, but it also has a solar panel. If the power bank completely dies, can you still charge your phone with just the solar panel? I have tried to charge one of my phone just on the solar pannels and nothing.

[@LucknowEventFriends]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge

[@todd.parker]

You bet!

[@CliffCliffsEdgeEdge]

Great review thanks!

[@alacazaba]

It's best to bench mark solar panels with an irradiance meter, not a light meter. The light meter will have a filter or be tuned in a way that reduces UV. Irradiance meters for solar do not.

[@adriftatlas]

I tested an Anker PS30 30W panel and got at most 12W (10W when hot) from it as measured by a TC66C. Thought it was an outlier but watching your video I see that it's par for the course. Makes me wonder if the USB charge controllers on these panels are too primitive and maybe even the same ones. As you said, it's common to get 75% of the rated power of a panel in good conditions. However, I feel that 33% is false advertising.

[@todd.parker]

Yeah, seems the average was around 79% which is less than a bigger 100w panel. 10w of 30w is pretty bad though - 33%?!

[@logangill8147]

How long would a 12w solar panel take to charge a 10,000mah bank?

[@gildardo]

Great Video. thanks for uploading it.

[@todd.parker]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@investmass]

Do you have a link for that cord that shows the watts on the display?

[@AntonStreefkerk]

You made a video talking about a micro power station which uses the 737, the flex solar 40w and an USB-C PD cable. If I may ask, do you still think that the flex solar 40w would be a good option or would you, as more or less stated in this video, recommend the Big blue 30w? I ask this because you mentioned overheating of the solar panels and I don't know if that would have an effect on the longevity of said panels.

[@todd.parker]

I think the Bigblue has an edge because of the kickstands and it exceeds its rating while the Flexsolar is good but pretty basic and definitely overheats. Hoping more 40w options come out soon

[@patric7419]

Great Video!

[@darylcheshire1618]

I perused the Jackery website and found it very annoying with the Christmas pop-up which was distracting and I was moved to send a complaining email. Yes I know this feedback will have zero impact.

[@joseg7090]

Saben gente que se me ocurrió? Poner un adhesivo en los paneles como el flexsolar que dice acá el amigo que levantan temperatura y perjudica el buen funcionamiento de su electrónica al llegar el panel de 40W a solo 28W. Poner el adhesivo o algo que cumpla la función de que no le de el sol en esa parte ( justo detrás de la electrónica ) de color blanco por supuesto. Que sea uno o dos centímetros mas grande. Puede funcionar , no es un área muy grande que digamos.

[@carloscueva7492]

If it’s used to just charge. A small power bank… would the larger solar panels damage it somehow ?

[@todd.parker]

No, a larger panel will just you output for more of the day and during cloudier weather so it more of a buffer against averse conditions. You just need to not exceed the max voltage but with USB, that’s covered

[@carloscueva7492]

The flex solar 40 w has 6 panels… if somehow 3 panels get completely covered Would that stop the entire production ?

[@todd.parker]

In my tests, blocking even part of one panel cuts output to 25w which is better than some but blocking a few panel will drop output to 0w. This is wired better than some but solar panels can’t handle being shaded much or you get no output

[@rjbfreelander2]

Hi Todd. Thank you for the video. These smaller panels can be very handy. I own a few. 1x Anker 21w fold out which has been used to charge phones, Bluetooth speaker and also AA/AA batteries. 2x Big Blue 36w panels which can even be used on my smaller Ecoflow River power stations.. ok won't charge them in a hurry but it works. One lives in the car as a back up option if stuck away from home or the vehicle 12v system fails. Also use mine hung out of windows to charge various Anker battery banks fi the other larger power stations are in use elsewhere.

[@todd.parker]

Yeah, they really come in handy, especially for power bank charging. Good idea to hang them out of windows.

[@bsfatboy]

how do you get 30W from the big blue 30 w panel when the usb c max is 18w?

[@Johan-rm6ec]

Great review but keep improving!!!

[@bekabaratashvili3178]

Hi, I love your videos! I have a question. I'd like some small station, with something like your anker 737. I like bigblue 30w, but what I understand from you, I can't use DC output with anker, So i will be limited to 10w? So in this case flexsolar 40w will be best for me, because it has more better usbc output, (Although it gets hot, it only delivers 18W, but it feels better than bigblue 10W). I am right? Thanks, You had really informative content

[@todd.parker]

The Bigblue 30w will give you 18w which is the same as the Flexsolar when hot. Both are good options but the BigBlue is a bit better because of the kickstands

[@LevyCarneiro]

Your review is very helpful and helped me decide on getting the big blue 30w panel. Question: I want to charge my power bank at 30w (instead of only 18w via usb c), is there a way / adapter to convert the 18v dc output to usb? Would it work? Thanks!

[@todd.parker]

You can buy adapters but the problem is you’re still going to USB PD and if it can’t sustain the power to hit 30w, it can stop charging and do weird things. You never get the full rated power of 30w from a panel. Best case is low 20’s so it can’t support a 30w level. Panel companies pick a PD level they can consistently support, going higher will be unstable so it’s not worth trying imo

[@LevyCarneiro]

@@todd.parker I see. It’s tricky! Thanks for your reply!

[@todd.parker]

Good question. The reason why a 30w panel can't support 30w PD is you only get around 80% of the rating under best conditions so you'll probably find that the charging fluctuates or even stops a lot. I'm going to do a follow-up the summer and hope to find a 30w PD panel that's small. In the meantime, you can always try using a DC plug to female car adapter that supports 30w PD

[@user-mi3pv7ql4g]

Can you recommend something for me to charge a: Halo ACDC Bolt 58830. DC input: 14v/.85a I have no idea how to even start. Thank you.

[@joseg7090]

Gran Trabajo Genio!!! 👍

[@joseg7090]

Good morning. A query that must be somewhat silly but I have no idea about these things. Would it be very far-fetched to use a usb fan that consumes 2.6V and 300Mah to cool a 40W portable solar panel ? Thank you.

[@todd.parker]

You could try it but my hunch is it won’t cool it down much

[@TerkelNL]

Hello, I have a question about the 40W Portable Solar Charger, is it possible to charge a 12v car battery via the DC port or will it only output 19v? ​

[@todd.parker]

You just need to buy a small solar charge controller like this and connect it between the solar panel and battery: amzn.to/4bUfe2D

[@SakePL]

So these days... What would you recommend for charging powerbank 20000 ?:)

[@todd.parker]

I think the BigBlue 30 is a good choice for that

[@Homeland.]

I bought a solar flex W40 after the last brand I had got a short in the folds, the wires weren't given room move under stress. Now I've used this, the solar flex less than ten times a it just did the same thing. I'm so disappointed. Do any of the companies make proper joints, wiring?

[@todd.parker]

That's a bummer. Flex Solar is definitely a budget brand but they should last way longer than that. I haven't had any failures but maybe I'm not putting them through as much stress. I can say that the SunJack panels are much more rugged and higher quality. I know they are working on new versions now so you should think about picking one of those up.

[@Homeland.]

The wiring in the hinges don't have the hinges taking the stress separate from the wires. The wire should come out of the hinge in a "n" fashion and dropped back in on the other side so the hinge takes all of the stress. I'm going to see if I can have someone do it. I didn't use it in a abusive or negligent manner. Just the normal opening and closing it. But I appreciate you answering my comment.

[@StanTregubenko]

Did you try to test 60 w flex solar?if yes,What do you think about it?

[@todd.parker]

I didn't, no. Their panels are ok but the Sun Jack 60w is really good

[@StanTregubenko]

@@todd.parker thanks, ordered 40w

[@StanTregubenko]

@@todd.parker around how long time does it take to charge anker 737 from the panel 40 w?

[@todd.parker]

@@StanTregubenko on a sunny day, it will take around 3.5-4 hours

[@StanTregubenko]

@@todd.parker thanks, will check, ordered both

[@malupe]

Which one would be the best one to charge a 16inch laptop??

[@todd.parker]

You’d want a 60w or even 100w panel. It’s best to charge a power bank then charge the laptop with that

[@jerzy004berry9]

Hello What do You think about Allpowers 21W with a integrated powerbank 10000?

[@todd.parker]

I didn't test that model because it looks like a lower quality PET panel

[@jerzy004berry9]

@@todd.parker Ok. I see. Thank You for answer

[@tiagon19]

Any thoughts on the Nitecore 30W? It seems to equal the Big blue 30W.

[@todd.parker]

If it's this one (amzn.to/3wl24eJ), it looks like a cheap PET panel instead of the more rugged ETFE panels I tested. $120 is highway robbery!

[@tiagon19]

@@todd.parker Agreed!

[@amosayo906]

great video

[@hyperboreanforeskin]

which 1 is the best to hang from a backpack to charge a power bank? its got to be light, and doesnt need to charge the power bank super fast because id be hiking all day anyway, so something that could charge a 10k power bank in maybe 10 hours?

[@Nick-bo6rz]

Did you ever figure it out man?

[@hyperboreanforeskin]

@@Nick-bo6rz unfortunately no. I have my vacation coming up in June so I'm doing some research to see which 1 to buy before then.

[@Хомяк99ЛВЛ]

Can I use 40W panel to charge my phone?

[@todd.parker]

Yes. With USB charging on the panel, it will work with any size USB device

[@precisecalibrationservices7017]

This solar panel used with charge the Electrical Bike its possible sir?

[@todd.parker]

The biggest ones like a 60-80w panel would work, yes but it depends on the Ebike's charger. Most only accept AC power.

[@michaelrowland-us3he]

Buy an unbranded one

[@mikam8801]

Will these charge through the front windshield if placed on the dash?

[@todd.parker]

I think windshields will filter out a lot of light but they would work somewhat in that situation.

[@Reedith]

It's a little annoying when the best performer is always the freaking bright yellow one. that looks super nerdy and stands out. I'm looking for discrete and black when buying expensive tech that's gonna sit out in the open.

[@todd.parker]

The Bigblue worked really well and are low key. Not as nicely build as the Sunjack but still

[@TheAcidheat]

try nitecore fsp30 and fsp100 they are best

[@kamilk6807]

Gut thanks

[@lubomirholienka1043]

Súper, teším sa svami😊😊😊

[@Darien-m6p]

Dont buy the 40W flex solar. I have bought one before and it wont even charge a phone unless its off, and even then, an iphone 11 still takes 2 days to fully charge.

[@todd.parker]

That’s wild. I think yours might be defective or broken. I have seen pretty reliable USB output on them and they can charge my phone in a day no problem. I don’t think they are the best quality so I can see them degrading faster than a premium panel for sure

[@TheMoneyBuddha]

more of this let me get a collab

[@SmartZero-f8e]

All of these are much too expensive...Inflation? Lol. Why would you buy a lame 60W Panel for 170$, when you can get a much bigger 120W-Panel (Pocosolar) for just 99$/Euro which has a voltage of 22V? lol Remember when you need high DC-voltage to charge your powerstation it´s much better to have higher Voltage panel-cells! Because this means you can get more energy in evenings, when there is nearly no more sun. In my country solar-panels like foldable ones are thrown after you! You could get a 120W Foldable for 99 Euros a few days ago! Or a 30W-BigBlue from "Blavor" which is the same as "BigBlue" is currenly being sold for 34 Euro. Even the 10 W-solution you have shown is much cheaper here at just ~17 Euro currently. The day when foldable panels were much more expensive compared to roof-panels are over. the price today is 1 Euro/watt for foldable panels here. While the price of regular roof-panels is 25-50 Cents/Watt. The hell: NOBODY should EVER pay 40 Dollaroos or Euros for a lame, tiny 10W-Panel. Since you will never get ~10W out of it. You will get 5W at most times. The bigger your panels are the higher your netto-energy output will be. Meaning: Higher efficiency. Meaning: my 120W-Panel does really produce 100-110W output in many times. But a tiny 10W-Panel will not produce 10W at any time. if you get 5W out of it for 50% of time, you should be glad since USB-conversion eats a lot of energy as well. This isn´t even enough to charge a small tablet. While on my 120W-Pocosolar i charge a tablet, 2 Smartphones and a 220Wh powerstation all at once if i want to. And this is when i only have 60W ouput with it, on weaker sunny days.

[@pohalsted8847]

There are better value portable panels out there. Also, that All Powers foldable is so overrated. Build quality was terrible too. I have shirts with stronger stitching.

[@todd.parker]

Which do you recommend?

[@genieotl]

Which do you recommend? I’m trying to buy one soon

[@DamianChirek]

🌇🌇🌇🌇🌃🌃🌃🛌🛌🛌🛌 0:15

[@ellisgarvin]

Unfortunately, the only way to do an accurate comparison is to make sure the ambient temp (higher temps lower energy output on photovoltaics,) and the sun angle, and brightness (ie, level of cloudiness, haze, etc) are all THE SAME for each test. If you tested one panel on a cool bright and clear day, and then tested another on a warmer, somewhat hazier day, when the sun was not hitting at the same angle, then you're not going to get accurate results.

[@todd.parker]

I was very careful about that and tested these at the same time and conditions. I had them all lined up and tested them all between 11:30 and 1pm on the same day and checked them 3 times to account for the different times. I let them heat up to see how much output dropped when hot too. I also confirmed the sun's output with a light meter. There's a ton of data but I wanted to keep the video focused on the results or it would have been super long