Best Rust Erasers

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[@jeremybaker8626]

I love the longer, tutorial type videos. That’s where I have learned the most. That’s what first drew me to Burrfection. I know, you can’t please everyone, but the old saying holds true. “ if it’s not broken don’t fix it” Thanks Ricky for all that you do!!!

[@cmendoza10153]

I'm a huge fan of the channel and these 10ish minute videos have been such a great way to get info even after a long day in the kitchen. Seeing the channel evolve has been so cool over the last few months. My question is: how can we expect the channel to evolve moving forward? I'm not trying to demand answers from you, I'm just really excited seeing the channel's growth and am really looking forward to what you tackle next. 👍🏼

[@TheAnimeKing3]

I like the new format, it’s very informative and like a little more personal where people may be unsure and have the opportunity to ask more specific questions.

[@jakemullen5044]

Hey ryky I have been following you for a few months now and I wanted to thank you for all the knowledge you have given me. I am 15 and my knives are getting a bit dull so I’m starting to save up for a stone!

[@charv3x]

Keep this format alive :) it's good

[@bobraleigh6273]

Question: How long do I need to leave my soaking stones out to dry before I put them away? You're the best Ryky I knew nothing about the fine points of wet stones till I ran into your videos. Thank you.

[@sac36555]

I like this format you have been doing where you answer a couple questions! Keep up the hard work!

[@chriszhou3528]

Hi thank you for these tutorial videos! I had a question using rust erasers with knives that have iron oxide patterns (eg brut de forge, iron wrought). I notice the rust eraser removes the black layer over time and I would like to avoid doing so. How does one ensure that only the rust/dirt layer is removed without wearing out the black layers?

[@JamesEscobar]

Love it man, keep rockin this format! 👌

[@Glendelhsu]

I too can concur that the rust erasers are unbeatable in performance and value. Cleans stones until they're basically brand new, and is a very easy solution to cleaning patina off knives. The medium eraser is probably the most versatile one!

[@ukaszdziadek9053]

Unfortunately those do not remove buildup from my spyderco benchstone ceramic stones :( Need to try other solutions.

[@jameskwon7617]

Great channel. Quick question though. When do you use a rust eraser vs. a nagura stone. Are the grits with a nagura the same as a rust eraser when used on a coarse vs fine grit whetstone?

[@thomasdivito6221]

Question Can you make a quick recap of your personal stone/technique progression? For example, if I want to polish up to 6000, what stone progression/technique do you recommend ? I mean, do you strop before going to higher grit stone ? And do you push pull on polishing stone and finish by stropping, or do you only strop on it? Thanks a lot Ryky

[@TyMalhoneson]

I enjoy this format and all your videos. Hsave learned a lot about sharpening and have enhanced my skills. Question: Best inexpensive chefs knife preferably under $50?

[@kfforbes]

This format is great love the interaction.

[@bvandergulik]

Question Hi Ryky, Thank you for your time in making all these videos, I really enjoy them. A few days ago you uploaded a video about the Nexus BD1N Stainless Steel Chef's Knive. After your positive review I decided to go and get one. Unfortunately Cutlery and more does not ship to the Netherlands, where I live in the awesome city of Den Helder. Could you think of an alternative readily available in Europe? Or, if not, convince Cutlery and more to start shipping to the Netherlands? ;) Thanks in advance!

[@caliniclodean7399]

Hello Ryky, very nice videos. Question for you: What 10000 grit or more stone would you recommend in your opinion for putting a great mirror polish on an edge? (up to 200 or 300 dollars)

[@stevemattingly9706]

QUESTION What do you recommend for a procedure on upkeep for a strop? I've seen recommendations for scraping, using an eraser, and sanding? I'm curious about how YOU would clean a strop? QUESTION

[@frankperolli7627]

Question. These shirts question videos are rest. I love what you do and are doing. You taught me and teach me everyone I watch one of your videos. Thanks for making learning fun. Frank from Montego Bay Jamaica.

[@ytwilhemg]

Ryky I love this format Q&A but I learned so much from the longer versions you can mix & match I suggest. Great work and thanks ...

[@JoshuaHowley]

I like this format, answers a lot of questions you didn't even know to ask! Water stones vs oil stones vs diamond stones. I know you use almost all soaking stones, but would like to see you compare the 3 different types, as I am old school and most familiar with oil stones. Question

[@hrhamada1982]

water floats out the sludge much better than oil. water is almost always available Water is less messy to store it and to store the stone. Diamond stones remove a lot of metal. you're trading time and labor for length if the usefulness of the knife before you have to thin them

[@unoLvE]

Question First off, love the channel and love the knowledge you are giving us, truly a help for me as a working cook and others in the home. I am a push cutter at heart but with finer cuts I tend to rock. I really would like to know what type of knife would benefit me the most. Also I noticed that when sharpening my knives I tend to have a dip in the middle, what am I doing wrong? I work in a professional kitchen but need to figure out what I'm doing wrong and now need to get the right knife. Thanks a lot!!

[@IntoxicatedVortex]

With regards to what knife would be best for you that would depend on what exactly you are trying to cut/slice as there's not really such thing as a single all-purpose knife, especially in a professional kitchen. The nearest would probably be a shorter, 8"/20cm maybe, cook's knife… maybe. Speaking for myself (another push cutter), if I had to pick 3 knives to live the rest of my life with I'd probably go with a 10-12cm utility knife, a 14-16cm nakiri with a very flat profile (my all round fav for veg prep and extremely suited for push cutting - you could swap a santoku in here but they never really gone well with me) and a 16-18cm filleting knife for protein prep and carving (I personally like a very low height knife here to minimise contact and drag with the protein and to also maximum agility which is why there's no 24+cm sujihiki). As you can probably tell, there's very little rocking going on in my kitchen where my least used knife is in fact my cook's knife. A more traditional European style cook would probably point you at a the same utility knife, but a cook's knife and a bread knife instead for their 3. Don't feel you need to go Japanese as they're often quite unforgiving and are require a significantly higher time investment in sharpening/maintaining even though they usually have better edge retention. FWIW my cutlery is predominantly German (Wüsthof Classic - mostly used with proteins) with sprinklings of Japanese (mostly for veg - meaning these get the overall most use). When it comes to the sharpening be mindful of where you put your fingers on top of your cutlery. The vast majority of the downward pressure is exerted right below these fingers and this is where the sharpening is going to happen so if you are not moving them up and down the cutlery as you sharpen in even amounts you won't sharpen your edge evenly. My guess is that your top, downward pressure giving, fingers are static in the area where you have the dip. That or your stone requires some serious flattening. I would maybe take your cutlery that exhibit the dip to a sharpening professional to have them re-profiled so it's a far easier job for you to start over with a "correct" profile.

[@unoLvE]

Thank you for the insight! I actually do have a 6 in. Nakiri and have been usually that religiously. Literally does everything. What brands would you recommend other than wüstop?

[@IntoxicatedVortex]

Depends on what you're after, what you're trying to achieve and/or what purpose any new knife is intended to fulfil. Without purpose and intent you'll more than likely end up buying the wrong thing. The more you share of that the better someone can help you… I doubt throwing out a cutlery line like Kramer by Zwilling is going to be particularly helpful.

[@unoLvE]

Veg prep medium sized and under (clean and precise) also light butchery.

[@IntoxicatedVortex]

Veg prep and butchering, light or not, with a single knife seems a bit contrary. For me the Wüsthof Classic 4138/16 or 4139/16 Kitchen Knife (I have the latter)… this is probably my closest to a "do it all" knife even though its flawed for veg prep. It is in fact my primary protein knife. Agile and easy to maintain. For my mother the Global NI 5.5" Prep Knife (the Enso HD Prep Knife is probably better in this class/style/size however mother simply likes how this Global feels in the hand - I'm not a Global fan but who am I to argue with that, or my mother lol)… she uses this knife for practically everything and loves this knife. Slightly softer steel but really easy maintenance. Maybe bit on the short side for protein prep. Choosing a single "do it all" knife I'm happier with a blade style that's more apt to proteins over veg… mother is the opposite. I'd go to a cutlery specialist and hold a few knives to help you decide what features you're really looking for… everyone's different.

[@claudegobbo5327]

Hi Riki, I do have an Naniwa pro 3000 sharpening stone. Now I would like to buy a polishing stone. I’m hesitating between a 5000 grit or 10000 grit Is there a major difference between the 3000 and the 5000 and wouldn’t it be a to bigger step from the 3000 to the 10000 stone. I would really appreciate having your advice as you/your channel do serious reviews and give great recommendations. Thanks a lot and greetings from Luxembourg/Europe

[@Jim00000]

Have you tried the naniwa diamond stones? If not you should request to get a set of them so you can review them. I'd like to get your input before purchasing these expensive stones.

[@harypisimisis202]

Hey Ryky. Thank you for your videos. Just a quick question. What is your opinion on sharpening systems such as tsprof, wicked edge, hapstone, etc. do you consider doing a review on those systems in the future?

[@hrhamada1982]

if you need a perfectly symmetrical edge or a specific bevel they are good. But why spend money, then spend money time and time again to replace proprietary parts if you don't need to

[@DonSWG]

Hey Ryky, love the videos. I apologize for the comment on such an old video, but I’m going through your videos as I learn to sharpen! I used the medium rust eraser on my King 1000/6000 tonight for the first time. I found it to be great for the 1000, but when I used it on the 6000, it left quite a rough finish on the stone. I used a nagura stone on it, and it restored its performance and smooth finish. Would you say that’s an exception to the rule that the medium eraser can go to 10,000 grit stones? I do notice that the King 6000 side is ridiculously soft 😩.

[@Lokomani92]

Question : I'm using a BearMoo 2000/6000 grit combination stone. I can get my knives to paper cutting sharpness, but NEVER hair shaving sharpness. Is that all in the stropping? Or am I doing something wrong? I always sharpen until I feel a burr then flip! Thanks! :)

[@bH-eo5tz]

Craig Cannizzaro a strop wouldn’t hurt that’s for sure but it’s probably just going to take practice and getting the angle just right which is hard to stay consistent

[@buddhamack1491]

The rust erasers are great. They last forever, had mine for years now after Ryky recommend it.

[@XonatoR]

Question. If one use a stonepond, instead of a sink. How often should the water be changed?

[@benkn1002]

Question! What're your thoughts on micro bevels? I've seen many videos of people removing them, and a few declaring how important they are to give stability to a fine edge. I seem to naturally sharpen at an 8°-10° angle, but have found that edge can be fragile, so have tried a hairline 12°-15° micro bevel and it seems I have the same benefit of the acute angle, but longer lasting. If this is the case, why do so many people want to remove them? Is it just purists going on principle?

[@hrhamada1982]

I would HIGHLY agree that 8-10 is too steep for MOST steels and that a microbevel would help. I guess if you feel that sharpness is only the primary bevel and to keep the primary bevel a microbevel helps, that's fine. I think this is an issue of style, of product and of steel. What is good for one person, one product, one steel is NOT always good for another. For me, I tend to care more about the supporting steel and the final bevel and using a better knife cutting technique, sliding it forward, instead of cutting using a guillotine motion which most proponents of microbevels tend to use. I think if you're using very sticky product, I would prefer a laser thin primary with a lower microbevel. If you are using a steel beyond it's capabilities a microbevel might help.And remember, you can use BOTH techniques on the same knife. I often put a pretty good edge through 3/4 of my blades, then a lower microbevel on the heel. There is no right or wrong. It's what works best for you! Good topic for discussion!!!

[@rustykc]

Question What stones and what grit do you use on just an average day of sharpening your knives when the camera isn't on? I have the Chosera 3k but I'm thinking of adding the Chosera 800. I'm not sure really what to get in a higher grit, what brand. Thanks in advance for your advice.

[@LordUriel78]

Good one as always... To me would be very very interesting to see what happens to the damascus pattern in a single bevel knife after the sharpening...i mean, i'm expecting that the pattern fade a little (or more...). In addition i think should be even more interesting to see if it's true that using instant coffe could be helpful in regaining its vividness...there are some videos that show coffee is used to etching the damascus pattern.

[@hrhamada1982]

coffee or any other mild acid will help IF one of the two lawyers is carbon. It won't really help if the two laywers are stainless

[@seanoconnor6851]

Question: Im just starting to learn about knives and sharpening, that being said I want to purchase 2 budget friendly knives that can do almost everthing and the apropriate sharpening stones what would you recommend?

[@hrhamada1982]

Depends on your cutting style and body, I'd recommend knives in AUS 8 or in "german steel" because they will allow you to build your knife skills and your sharpening skills. German steel is what they start you with in culinary schools because it is reliable, easy care, and because it forces you to grow. I'd recommend Mercer, Dexter, Messermeister, Wusthof, Henckels (with TWO men, not with one man). I also think Shirogami is a great first steel if you want Japanese steel. It is easy to learn to cut with and easy to learn to sharpen with. And you'll never outgrow shirogami, even though you might outgrow an introductory knife made from it. Shirogami is used by some of the best chefs in the world and it's made by some of the best knife makers in the world. BD1 and BD1N seems to be a good knife for someone who is not well skilled or doesn't have discipline, they're very robust. But it doesn't force you to grow. it is hard, so it' will be a long time before it needs sharpening, and it is somewhat difficult to sharpen, so in your stage if you want to grow, I'd hold off on it. But for someone who is a home cook and has no intention of improving themselves BD1N is going to change the game for the whole industry. As far as stones, there are guys that are much better than I am that can give you recommendations. King and Naniwa probably combine the best reliability and performance for the cost. Some "look alike" stones are reputed to be pretty good, while others are flimsy, but King and Naniwa are always a good buy. they sell many levels, not just many grits. you don't need the Mercedes benz level. a Toyota camry will be good. A beginner is not going to need the level of performance to cost difference that an experienced sharpener needs. Even I just buy mid end stones.

[@tselfe11]

Harrison Hamada very well stated advice. ⚔️

[@davidtran1360]

why is polishing the edge important? Does it make the knivese go through things smoother?

[@winobouwens]

Question: how long do Naniwa Choseras (800, 2000 and 10000 grit) or Naniwa Professionals last approximately? I use the cheapest available stones right now and i seem to burn through them quite fast. Is it worth it to upgrade to better stones when you sharpen about 3 knives per week? Thanks in advance!

[@buddhamack1491]

Wino Bouwens 3 knives a week they should last years. It is worth it.

[@hrhamada1982]

as budda mack said, a good stone often IS worth the investment. I guess you can compare stones to payless shoes. you can buy some cole haan's that will last you years, even if they're a little ugly or you can buy 20 pairs of payless shoes for the same price. they hurt to wear, but people think you're in style because you always have new looking shoes because they wear out or break so fast.

[@b-radg916]

Wino Bouwens… are these knives your own, or other people's? I ask because if they're your own, you might not need to go all the way back to the 800, could probably just touch up on 2000+. I'm guessing they're other people's (and really dull), and in that case, it might make sense to also get a coarse (~320) stone so you're not going so hard on your 800-1000 stone.

[@winobouwens]

80% of the knives i sharpen are my own. With my own knives i indeed start at a higher grit (1500 in my case). But sometimes a friend or two come along with knives that need to be reprofiled, so i kinda do need the lower grit stone i guess (Don't worry, they always give me some beers for it, which comes in handy as a student :) ). It is pretty amazing how fast these cheap stones wear; i did some quick maths and was kind of shocked. This is what it resulted in: I received my two stones January 16th. That is 70 days ago. I have about 9 knives that i sharpen and sharpen them on average once per 3 weeks. One of the knives has a rockwell rating of 60. The others are all around 56 or less. This translates to somewhere around 30 full sharpening sessions. This is what my two stones look like when put on top of each other: imgur.com/a/55k6J Let's say i don't want to invest in a lapping stone, then after another 30-40 sharpening sessions (being generous), the 3000 stone will be so boat-shaped that it gets impossible to maintain a steady angle. The stones cost $28 a piece including shipping to the Netherlands. That's more than $0,80 per sharpening session. If Buddha Mack is right, then investing in a better stone really is worth it; thanks for the advices everyone. (and excuses for the long text)

[@Lungmarco]

Hey Ryky, I got a question! I was sharpening my yanagiba. I also wanted to polish my blade side to a mirror polish. Is it possible with the Naniwa Professional 5000?After polishing I saw some cloudy spots on my blade. How do I remove those cloudy spots. I also recently acquired the shapton Pro 12000 stone but when I try to polish I still get fine lines in my knife how could I make a mirror polish of it. During sharpening my flat side of my yanagiba this side feels so sticky especially with the higher grit levels. How could I help this? Thanks Ryky!

[@knifesharpeningnorway]

Good video as always mate 😊

[@zq7807]

Hi Ryky, how do you keep the angel consistent on the curves? I usually end up with two straight bevels instead of a nice round curve .

[@malachithered624]

Question I've been looking for an all purpose chef knife and been leaning towards the Dalstrong Shogun Series X Gyuto but I'm a fan of patinas so was wondering if you had a recommendation on a knife you think would be good with a patina

[@hrhamada1982]

any carbon steel if it's a patina you want. You can even get slightly different patterning and coloring of the patina if you don't mind experimenting. I mentioned paper towels and vinegar to one of the other guys. try forcing a patina with a crumpled paper towel for a few hours so only the edges touch the blade. Then do a second waiting period with a flat paper towel. The crumpled paper towel area will be darker and you can get some cool patterning 52100 such as a Kramer is great and you guys probably know how I feel about shirogami, aogami and aogami super. You're generally going to have to spend more for a good carbon steel. I would stay away from French carbon steel unless you get one from before the 1970's or so. But other than French, most other carbon steel will be good

[@Duthum]

Question : previously you have talked about the nexus knives and when I saw your video i was really exited but since i live in europe i cannot order it is there anyway that it can ship to the netherlands?

[@soundgarden01]

Yes I like this format keep them coming.

[@johnkarraker4705]

Rust erasers are a must have!! I use it all the time.

[@b-radg916]

YES!! So glad Ryky figured out how useful they are at cleaning stones!

[@johnkarraker4705]

Bradley Gong I learned this from Ryky over a year ago in a different video he did.

[@b-radg916]

john karraker… me too. One of his claims to fame is discovering that use for them.

[@wandaeisenman8656]

Keep a variety of video formats: the Q&A, tutorials, cut tests, unboxings, etc. Long videos and short videos because each format provides different info. Mix up/Variety is good in a channel I personally like the unboxing and tutorials. Maybe some day you will have the chance to do a travel video! Thanks for maintaining such n enjoyable channel. And those Chosera 3000 will be off the shelf gone soon!

[@Burrfection]

thanks Wanda, for all of the great feedback! you'll love the 3000!

[@kennethersgard8950]

QUESTION? First/best chinese cleaver (slicer type): Any experience and/or recommendations for dipping the toes into asian slicers. Thx..:)

[@hrhamada1982]

If you're just "dipping your toe". Start with a dexter 5198. It's totally cheap, but it's recognized by pros the world over. There are certainly better Chinese cleavers, but this el cheapo was reputed to even be in the kitchens of Cecilia Chang and of Fusha Dunlop, the empress and the queen of Chinese cooking Shi Bah Zi also makes some great inexpensive Chinese cleavers for beginners.

[@kennethersgard8950]

Harrison Hamada Thanks, Harrison...:) However; it was meant as a VLOG-suggestion for Ryky, since I feel there’s a lot, that can be learned from experimenting with chinese slicers...at a very affordable price of admission, too. I’ve eyed out the ShiBaZi’s myself, but ended up buying a Deng forged carbon as my first slicer, whch is most definitely a totally different animal than my old german stainless (bone) cleaver. But I’m sure there are better options out there...?

[@txhypnotist]

Thanks for sharing all of your insightful information, I really appreciate you. Make it a great day.

[@nilechim-se1qh]

Qestion? Can you do a review of the the shun 1000/6000 combo stone for sharping and polishing. I am trying to start my own knife sharping business(on the east coast) and want to know what you think. P.s. I purchased the chyosera 3000 on your recommendation and I LOVE IT.

[@TheStogieAndStave]

Hey Ryky, love the video Q&A. Ok, deserted island type question, If you had to pick 2 or 3 stones to sharpen 2 or 3 knives the rest of your days, which stones and which knives?

[@b-radg916]

ToyMchn… here's my guess: Chosera 800 and 3000, Cerax 320, Masamoto KS, Yaxell Dragon Fusion nakiri, and Enso utility. And a Burrfection carbon fiber based strop for good measure!

[@sakataslays]

5:40 rust erasers

[@josephnardone1250]

Question: After watching this video, went to the link for the rust eraser. Also listed were Chosera 3, 000 whetstones but included with the whetstone was a Nagura stone. What is a Nagura stone and its use?

[@TheAnimeKing3]

Question, I just got the takumi artisan series 3 price knives (I can’t find much information on them) and I was wondering what stone would be the best to buy to sharpen it on, I don’t have a lot of money and I try to take the best care of my knives.

[@hrhamada1982]

there are a lot of knives called takumi. I know ccnives (chroma) make a very cnice cnife (they always add a "c"). I don't own one but I've got a dozen or more hours on a borrowed one. I was VERY favorably impressed, but it was too much money for me. I think it was about 300 bucks about 15 years ago. I'm sure they're even more money now

[@jamesgentry6864]

Hey ryky when I use the rust eraser either one it leaves a rough gritty surface to my stones. And I have to hit them with my naniwa nagura anyway. Does yours do that?

[@nhojcam]

i am looking at purchasing a vintage carbon steel (good!) elephant sabatier chef's knife with quite a bit of "patina" and discoloration on the blade. what would your recommend to abate some of this discoloration? really like your videos! sub'd FOR SURE!

[@hrhamada1982]

if you get a good OLD French Sabatier you're lucky. the new ones all suck. Why would you remove the patina? The patina protects your knife! If you scroll up one of the guys named nifty-tube-man has an excellent set of instructions. But please, think twice before you do it

[@deankirby5966]

Question: What is your opinion of the Chosera 2000 stone?

[@meowman08]

how much would it cost to have sharpening lesson from you? As in person?#question

[@corujabuho8253]

Question: I sharpened a couple of knives for my mom-Kai satoku and a traditional japanese daily driver santoku. Put it through 1000/6000 King, then finished removing/refining burrs on strop.. It was surgically sharp, but after chopping a few onions, it would not go through a tomato. How?. Please note that those two items were cut right after sharpening. Wondering what happened. Thank you for your sharpening wisdom :) QUESTION

[@hrhamada1982]

getting an edge and keeping an edge are two very very diffrerent things That's why I think all those tomato tests on youtube are worthless. Getting the edge is mostly the skill of the sharpener, although partially the type of steel. Keeping the edge is mostly a function of the steel, the type of product, the cutting surface and the person doing the cutting. Kai is the parent company of shun, but they have crummy knives through some very respectable knives. If they are using soft steel, do not expect them to stay sharp long. But if they're soft, they'll be really easy to hone them and to resharpen them. I'm betting a quick touch up on a honing rod will bring them nicely in to shape a few times, then resharpen them for her. I never mind doing little tasks for my mom because she always prepares me a great meal. And it's a great way to get some time together in a busy world. When you say razor sharp, maybe it's too steep an angle to support the bevel.

[@IntoxicatedVortex]

If the blade is dulling as fast and in the way that you're saying then I would think your biggest problem is going to be what your mother is cutting on. People often fail to consider their cutting board in the equation when dealing with poor edge retention. A hard, finish retaining, cutting board that shows no or little sign of being used for cutting is going to dull your blades significantly. Think about the times Ryky has dulled a knife on his brick. Irrespective of how good or hard the cutlery may well be not a single knife survived 20 strokes. If your cutlery doesn't score the board then the board is excessively dulling the cutlery with each stroke. A single great cutting board, you don't have to go all the way to a Japanese cypress (hinoki) although aim for at least a decent end-grain board, will be a good friend to many many knives and will be well worth the investment.

[@corujabuho8253]

QUESTION and gratitude: Thank you very much for your very detailed and knowledgeable reply Infinite Vortex. We have the same cutting board for a few years; it is the same as the one for my 15-year-old Victorinox Fibrox 8" chef. I raised the questions as I was wondering if my sharpening skills are flawed. i.e. Am I putting too thin of an edge on my Kai Wasabi 6-1/2-Inch Santoku Knife? Is that even possible after running the edge through a ceramic rod and stropping? The board is not soft but it is not hard either. What board do you use and what do you think is a sane amount to spend on a decent board? QUESTION is for anyone.

[@hrhamada1982]

Thanks for telling which type Kai you have. A Kai Wasabi is HARDER than your victorinox. In theory, it should have a longer edge retention. A softer knife tends to roll it's edge especially when sharpened to too high an angle (low number degrees). I concur with infinite vortex that a good cutting board is good to have, But I've worked on poly boards for dozens of years, (I use wood at home). It matters, but not THAT much. We know the product is moderate. We know that the steel is HARDER than the steel that you have no issues with. I'm assuming you've had no problems with cutting onions with your Vickie at your home, so it's not you (but we do tend to be more careless when we're at someone elses home). Is it her telling you that it doesn't stay sharp, or is it you that tried her knife at her house when you were visiting? If it's her telling you. I'd be thinking she drags product with her knife or that she twists her wrist when she cuts. We've eliminated the product, the knife and the user. that pretty much just leaves the board.

[@IntoxicatedVortex]

While I'd typically agree with you Harrison I've seen enough people cut on the most bizarre things, up to and including glass, because it looks nice and stays looking nice. Keeping that in mind, in this case there are only 4 things in play… the knife (which won't dull itself), the onions and tomato (which won't dull the knife either) and the board. Soooooo there's not a lot there, outside of HRC65 tomato seeds, that's going to dull the knife. One alternative that just popped into my head is in fact a bad unit else a counterfeit… but the OP should probably have an idea of this given the way it sharpens.

[@dustingomez7590]

Please test the Akazawa Titan diamond stones!!!! I really want to get a few but it would be cool to see them tested first.

[@Burrfection]

haha. ahead of you there...... they are on the way

[@frogfoot198]

Good format.

[@petermai9034]

Whoa whoa whoa! What happened to hey there guys, welcome back, ryky here?!

[@Burrfection]

sorry. it won't happen again.

[@jojojaykay]

What watch are you wearing?

[@schroedercross-dunn2342]

Hey burrfection have you tried an old hickory?

[@hrhamada1982]

great cheap knives! Especially the older ones!

[@schroedercross-dunn2342]

Harrison Hamada The 1095 steel used is great.

[@jrclad2964]

Sabitoru Rust Eraser for cleaning stones = super discovery, Ryky. Effective and cheap. Thanks.

[@buddhamack1491]

This format is great if you need to film a backlog of videos to give yourself a break. But also continue your other videos.

[@bchin5669]

my shun premier nakiri has tamarind stains on it, can i use the rust erasers on the Damascus to remove the stain?

[@hrhamada1982]

it will erase the stain, but it will dull the layered look, too so you'll need to spend some time polishing if you want to.

[@IntoxicatedVortex]

I have this same nakiri and I probably wouldn't go down that road myself unless I were about the replace the knife anyway. My suggestion would be to shoot an email to KAI-Shun and ask for their opinion as to the best thing for you to do. They'll know their cutlery the best and the optimal ways of cleaning stains off of them.

[@hrhamada1982]

I just cried when I saw the question about wanting to REMOVE patina. I would have thought most of us are more interested in cool ways to ADD patina. To give character and to PROTECT your carbon steel from rust a patina is a BENEFICIAL thing

[@Burrfection]

LOL! i hear you. sometimes, i have to give solutions to.... things i may or may not agree with.

[@b-radg916]

Six months ago I cleaned the rust off my mom's Chinese cleavers, but each time I go back, they've got rust going again (she's NOT into knives like her son!). Will forcing a patina help? Any thoughts on how to force the best/most protective patina possible?

[@hrhamada1982]

there are several types of ferric oxide. If one is on, then the other cant go on because the oxygen can't get to the iron. But once one type starts forming, then it tends to "grow". The dull grey patina PROTECTS the knife from getting the RED/BROWN rust. I personally would consider taking any "red" rust off with steel wool, rust eraser, sandpaper, etc. then forcing a patina. You can just scrub off the bad spots, or you can start with a "blank canvas". If you change your mind you can always start over again. you can even do some really cool things with a forced patina like create real or create abstract patterns. And remember the patina layer is pretty thin so it can wear away. For a while I used PCB etching fluid on a blade with 52100 core and stainless exterior. so the thin exposed edge was black and the face was white. But mostly I just use a mild acidic solution such as vinegar, tomato sauce, coffee, etc. you can give mild patterning with mustard. Looks really cool and you can mix and match layers and colors based on the chemistry and thickness of whatever you put on. You can put on stripes in one direction for a few hours and add other stripes (or dots, or whatever) in another direction and add so it's like 4 hours with one and 2 hours extra with another, etc you can use a "resist" like nail polish or tape and it will be lighter where the "resist" was. They have those "cricut" stencils or ones the guys that make window decals use. just remember the pattern will slowly fade. There is also the school of thought of leaving it "shiney" looking, but one or the other type of ferric oxide will grow unless you oil it up. That would be a personal preference issue. And remember you can also electrochemical etch your knives too. I've seen some awesome designs, but it take a bit more effort and time and they are semi permanent, so you might want to practice if you're going to do that. In LA, we had a buy that was also a tattoo artist who would do electrochemical etching on some guys blades. I thought it was cool, but I was poor at that time and couldn't pay. The electrochemical works even on stainless. But if you have stainless, you don't need to worry about wither rust or patina. At that point, it's more about customizing your knife.

[@b-radg916]

Harrison… wow, you got into some things I've been thinking about doing, but not on my mom's beaters. I was just there the other day and saw she had washed it, then left it out wet on the counter. So the main thing for hers is just to prevent/slow down rust formation.

[@hrhamada1982]

just scrub off what you want. Then soak a paper towel in vinegar over night. That will take little effort. Only coast abut 10 cents and will prevent rust.

[@paleryder]

I like my rust erasers! you can use both formats as dictated by the subject matter.

[@bounceeer]

It would be a welcome change if you named these videos Q&A because the title is a little bit clickbaity.

[@EduardBobrik]

#qustion videos - IMHO you should separate these videos to another list and call it Ryky’s FAQ or Ryky replies... Ryky’s weekly Q&A

[@hrhamada1982]

I like the alliteration of ryky replies! Great idea!

[@gabrielyadoya6765]

Test kikuichi knives

[@hrhamada1982]

There's almost zero chance that they'll send out a sample, even to someone of ryky's following, but every knofe they make from their inexpensive to their top of the line are superb

[@010falcon]

Fekin third Notification squad???

[@MrWeedpeet]

Very Nice format! :)