Best Sunlu resin for your application? Standard resin vs ABS-Like vs PA-Like

[@manishalive]

I must say this is by far the best test done so far on the resins. Very very methodical and test that actually measure and differentiate on resin from another. I am so glad that I stumbled upon this and learned a lot. Hats off.

[@Those_Weirdos]

Methodical, but a completely incorrect methodology.

[@scottydogmyers]

These are such great tests! I never thought that cure time would have such a measurable difference. Nice job and extremely informative!

[@jccraftmage]

Yeah I actually had never considered that too. I just assumed that once it's cured that's it.

[@benishehe]

As always, your videos are fantastic. Glad to hear you're coming over to resin printing, I only recently started it as well. Ironically, you had every element of my process in presented: mars 3, elegoo cure and wash combo, and sunlu abs-like.

[@GiocondoSticca]

Excellent work, thank you!

[@MyTechFun]

Thank you too! I am glad, that you liked it (resin videos are not too popular between my subscribers)

[@lime3620]

As an engineer, the rigorousness of this experiment gives me goosebumps. Great stuff!

[@Those_Weirdos]

What rigor? Are we watching the same video? Or were the goosebumps caused by revulsion at the idea of a sample size of 2?

[@lime3620]

@@Those_Weirdos As an indicator a sample size of two is fine. Was the video helpful? Very much so

[@riba2233]

@@Those_Weirdos here you go again lol, are you ok?

[@ClokworkGremlin]

My big takeaway from this comparison is that there's absolutely no point spending the extra money on PA resin when the ABS-like options perform comparably and sometimes better in every single metric, and cost barely more than the standard ones.

[@aberodriguez4149]

As always the information you provide with your experiments are enlightening and provide useful information when needing to create parts that will be exposed to a stressful conditions. Great work thank you.

[@rmjoumaa29]

Fantastic review. It answered questions I didn't even know I had.

[@gcardinal]

It's excellent that you conducted FDM tests on resin parts, as it allows for easier comparison. I've been using FDM parts in production, primarily ABS, and they've been performing well. I've also dabbled with ABS-like resin in real-world applications, but I'm still uncertain about the effects of long-term UV light exposure and other environmental factors on the part. Furthermore, as resin parts change over time, it's unclear when this transformation ceases and the parts stabilize. For example, I printed a ring box, and after several months in the bathroom, the bottom became approximately 5mm convex from its original flat shape. If I had sufficient time, it would be fascinating to investigate the use of resin parts in functional applications. This research could potentially address questions such as: - What is the recommended aging period for new parts before installation? - How does exposure to UV light impact the parts? - What are the effects of heat and cold exposure? - How do the parts hold up in saltwater environments?

[@jessejuliano8056]

Yes, it would be interesting to see this data. Even some extreme UV chamber exposure would be good, or testing ways to avoid UV damage(additives, paint)

[@mohamedtalaat3409]

Hi thank you for very informative review. IMHO the brittle material testing is best tested with “Biaxial 3-point flexure test” to better describe their Tensile strength. To others who do not what it is we put disc specimens are supported by 3 equilateral balls from one side and a load is applied from one point in the center from other side. The load applied at failure is the exact tensile strength of this specimen. I know it needs an “instron machine” to do that but I wonder why that info is not readily available for various resins to clearly identify their Tensile strength!

[@andreafalconiero9089]

Very interesting and useful. Thanks for doing this work and sharing the results!

[@que_dijo]

thank you Igor, always learning something new from you. Blessings bro!

[@artycharr]

More testing on material integrity went on in this video than happened on the titan submersible! (seriously though thank you for the in depth look at the qualities of ABS like resin!

[@WaltDEM]

Exactly what I was looking for, I just purchased my first resin printer and wanted to know if abs like resin was really a good option for high detail but durable figurines

[@alexbotner4656]

Your videos are a massive help, thank you for making them

[@MyTechFun]

Thx for kind words.

[@retromodernart4426]

@@MyTechFun Igor, your patience and attention to detail are legendary, your videos are top quality, to the point and very informative and useful. Thank you very much for all your professional hard work that you share with us, very appreciated!

[@ganagz]

Thanks for this man! Really informative. This would be a huge help for my future projects. Cheers!

[@santiagoblandon3022]

Thanks! very interesting. I've always been curious how resin prints compare to FDM mechanically

[@svetoslavasenov5609]

Thank you! I was wondering which one to choose for my purpuses but now I know. Would be really nice if I could know how they behave after several hours in saltwater.

[@Peter-DOC-Docter]

For the dropping test maybe look for a clear acrylic or otherwise just a pvc pipe of the lenght you want, put a street-tile under it and drop 1 model, or do multiple pipes, that way, they won't go all over the place and you have the results on the tile, clear to see. (saves your feet from tiny splinters too!) you could do multiple lengths too, if you'd like.

[@MyTechFun]

Good idea, but I don't plan to do this too often. I can easily pick up bigger parts. Smaller I left to robot vacuum cleaner. Only last time I forgot to check inside my shoe, there was one broken map inside :-)

[@nomdefamille4807]

if you inserted the short caliper "knife" legs further in to the hole the relief designed in to those legs would let you avoid the "elephant foot" bulged part of the bore (simples?)

[@SagasPlaylist]

Fantastic! Thanks for making this video!

[@ok4377]

Great tests with repeatability across products and scientific execution! Well done. And all that while you live in an apartment, I presume, setting up the test stations ad-hoc every time? Aswesome!

[@jccraftmage]

Great data and information as always

[@a.d.n.indutsries]

what are the best settings for the abs like in a nova3d printer?

[@dannybuscemi867]

Planning on testing the Standard Plus that just came out?

[@kishana7756]

Have you done chemical test on these materials? How it reacts with solvent like Acetone or DMF? Which solvent has better solubility of these materials?

[@MyTechFun]

I am not familiar with this part, but yes, it would be good to test at least few basic materials.. thx for suggestion.

[@Kerbylol]

Thank you for sharing your work.

[@Those_Weirdos]

11:21 would you care to explain WHY you only have 1 sample of each, with the exception of one test where you have a sample size of ZERO?

[@riba2233]

@@Those_Weirdos cope

[@aiwditbh]

Abs like is quite accurate with dimmensions, while on sunlu states ithas 6-8% shrinkage, have you compensatest for it?

[@walterrldias]

great video, txs!! would you share the .stl of your test samples, in case we would like to duplicate your results or compare to other resins? or at least the dimensions of your samples, diameter, etc. let us know. thanks

[@awildtomappeared5925]

it was hard to tell from the video, how matte are they? it looked like the ABS and PA were more shiny, is this the case?

[@MyTechFun]

Visually it is hard to see the difference between them (same shiny surface)

[@stevesmith-sb2df]

Thanks I don't have resin printer so this was good info. I usually print ABS parts because of the lower creep and higher temperature resistance. I would like to know how to FDM print PETG so the part is as ridgid as PLA. Like 4 walls in PETG has same bending strength as 2 walls PLA. Can you compare ABS and PETG to PLA by increasing wall count and infill.

[@sergioart8566]

Hi! Which one is better for car printing parts that will be mount outside the car? For example some spliters or another type of parts?

[@joaquinordoqui111]

Damn you are a genious!!! thanks so much for this incredible video and dedication!! You won another subscriber :D

[@karlosss1868]

Great video as usual. Just a tip... you can measure on the elephant foot side by inserting the calipers a bit more into the hole. The caliper feet are cut away to allow fo this.

[@MyTechFun]

Oh, shame on me, how come I didn't think of it. Thank you!

[@jakabgipsz4788]

@@MyTechFun Az elefántláb megszüntethető, ha a szeletelőben beállítod a kezdő rétegek kompenzációját. Pont ugyanúgy ahogy van ilyen beállítás a prusa szeletelőben az FDM nyomtatásnál.

[@BayinWu]

Great video, valuable information

[@krisd9506]

Awesome video! For the cheapest stuff on Amazon, it's pretty strong. Wonder how it stacks up to stuff like Resione K, Resione Anti Impact and Conjure Rigid... Betting they aren't that much better and are much more expensive. Lots of people swear by Siraya Tech BLU, but the Sunlu ABS beats it in most of your tests.

[@hicl5450]

will abs-like resin react with acetone?

[@WhereNerdyisCool]

There are so many resin printers coming out weekly, it is really hard to keep track. What I dislike is all of those inexpensive machines use fast curing resin which offers no real strength. If you want to print figurines and decorative items in high detail, that's one thing. I would like to use resin prints for high detail pieces my FDM machines can't do. But it needs to be strong. One thing your data showed that I had not seen others cover is the shrinkage. Thank you!

[@SomeoneAbstruse]

Massively interesting how curing time changes mechanical properties. Now curiosity has awoken to how and if translucent filaments are changed. On a side note, it looks like you have proved there is little reason to not print abs-like as standard (given price similarity and mechanical superiority*) *Deals may be struck for wholesale standard resin bringing price down to 10 usd pr kg

[@Dark0Storm]

The curing times are affecting the mechanical properties because the 2 minute ones are just not fully cured. Resin parts are always more flexible until post-curing- the 2 min sample is just closer to its post-print and pre-cure state. Resin will continue to cure from UV light until all the photoreactors are used and polymer chains formed (there are some other complications around the length of chains formed that muddy the waters a little bit). It's worth pointing out this means that even if you under cure a part to try and retain some resilience it will be temporary as it continues to be exposed to some level of U?V (whilst creating the risk of there potentially being some level of toxicity due to the toxic elements of the resin not having fully reacted). Once this has happened it won't cure any further (there is no such thing as "overcuring"). This is how you can tell what length of time you need to cure for. After this point it will of course still suffer UV degradation like most other polymers, that weakens the print - however this is on a different kind of timescale to curing. For practical purposes we really should be looking at a resin's mechanical properties once fully cured. Its interesting to see how it behaves when partially cured, but not something we should be aiming to achieve. If the fully cured state is too brittle for a particular purpose, then we really should be looking at changing resin. It would actually have been interesting to see more levels of curing, something like 5, 10, 15, 30, 60, to determine the point at which the mechanical properties remain the same . This would give some indication of curing times, but of course that is likely to also be dependent on the geometry of the printed object.

[@SomeoneAbstruse]

@Dark0Storm Thank you for this enlightenment and solid reply a year later I was unaware to the fact of no overcuring matters. You've given much food for thought good sir

[@Shiruvan]

is there a scratch test, or will there be scratch test included some day? I'd like to know the wear resistance/ease of post processing like sanding(of course since they go against each other, but we require different things sometimes)

[@MyTechFun]

Sometimes I do hardness test (shore D) but I didnt with these resins

[@zakozak20002000]

Impressive job, thanks!

[@anupamdash1102]

i wanted to try using metal inserts on some of my rapid tools but looks like a soldering iron won't cut it :) thanks for the video! underrated in the printing community!

[@albapantheratigris6071]

Excellent write up

[@dekurvajo]

Aside of fancy mini figures, there are definitely a place for practical printing with sla/dlp. Here is my example. I needed m8 set screws but flexible ones. And i needed 320 pcs. Imagine that job with an FDM. With the dlp i was able to finish it in one day including the extra time of cleaning up the mess. Remember 1 item or 100 items takes the exact same time to print on the DLP. And when it comes to tiny parts, the DLP is the winner

[@sambcg]

Great experiment

[@petercallison5765]

Anycubic has an ABS Like Pro which they say is much tougher than the ABS Like plus. they also say it gets tougher over time with exposure to the sun.

[@bahadzhan1111]

Thank you for this video, very informative, I think it will help every maker to understand the possibilities of these resins. And result of impact test from PA like resin was unexpected for me also. I have suggestion cure them also 5min and 10min and test them I think 2min cure is too small amount of time and 20 min is large.

[@luisbustamante5479]

this resin is quite enticing, for that price I'm really considering the switch.

[@TheMidwestbear]

thank you for this!

[@pk6336158]

This video was amazing, can you try the Jamg He Art Engineering, Jamg He High Tenacity Resin and Jamg He Engineering Pro resins? The Jamg He Art Engineering resin claims to have an impact resistance of 460J/M and the Jamg He High Tenacity Resin claims to have an impact strength of 736J/M !? 😶🤨

[@pk6336158]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/j6PQgWipiahkhtE

Great! Thanks for sharing.

[@sebastiancamacho8275]

It’s interesting that you do all of these tests and not own your own SLA 3d printer! You should get one! I just got the Halot Lite for ~4500 MXN which is ~267 USD. Good enough size, resolution and technology. I think you should get your own printer so that you can put all your knowledge and tests into practice and also what what you find about the best ways to print! Maybe test if the orientation of the print affects its physical characteristics or other cool stuff 😅 great videos, a little too technical, which is good for us people who like it that way

[@bd700bd]

Thank you a lot

[@artofdon]

ty very informative

[@noway8233]

Over cook resin prints makes them breakeable (well , more breakerable 😅)

[@donniem7979]

awesome

[@noway8233]

The diference beteewn pla and abs resin is the bottle , one say "Pla-like" and the other say "Abs-like"

[@MyTechFun]

There is a little bit more difference, at least in mechanical specs

[@xeraoh]

Polyamide plastic (PA) is like Nylon, usually the PA-like resin is more flexible than the rigid ABS-Like resins but PA-Like resin is nothing to do with PLA

[@jakesells2379]

Time for a new oven. 😅

[@kalicacao]

At last some serious and comprehensive resin tests!

[@alexandes95]

Дичь. Все, что можно было нарушено при испытаниях, было нарушено.

[@edgarsi]

ну сделай лучше... клоун )

[@gabrielzygmunt1200]

Methodology need a lot of improvement. For mow dislike with potential in future improve.

[@RobBob555]

I can't understand this guy 🤷‍♂️🙄