3 ways to Reinforce Stained Glass Panel using copper V141

[@peteismydad]

Love how you explained this. Will share to my glass groups as ppl are always asking how and why to reinforce.

[@GommStainedGlass]

Thanks, we're sharing what works for us!

[@dianeflowers3807]

Thank you, for being so willing to share what you have learned. Priceless!

[@GommStainedGlass]

Thanks, we find re-strip to come in handy when strengthening a panel

[@chrishamilton9968]

I want to thank you for giving us so much help. I have watched a few of your video's and they are amazing. Thanks for taking so much time to really explain things in such detail so I can fully understand it. You are Amazing !!!

[@GommStainedGlass]

I had some visitors to our studio yesterday who are building a large horizontal piece, so I gave them some galvanized 1/2" strip that I showed how to use on video kzbin.info/www/bejne/imjLeKp3os19iZY

[@davidhill1220]

Thanks for getting back to me 👌👍 Patricia

[@GommStainedGlass]

You are so welcome

[@anitafaulkner6312]

I have not had a lot of time to see vidios but I pulled yours up and there you were!!! Thank you! Missed you!!!

[@GommStainedGlass]

Great, Glad you're with us!😃😃😃

[@kere9323]

Thank you! When I saw that you were going to use re-stip in all 3 suggestions, I almost shut you off, but then, I thought I would give you the time to show me anyway and I am sure glad I watched. It was the suggestion on the angels that made me happy to see and I will be using that right now as I re-enforce a panel that I did!

[@GommStainedGlass]

Thanks for watching, I only give instructions that have worked for us and I'm always happy to hear from others!

[@julybyrt7756]

I love your videos, you are a perfect teacher, I'm an amateur in this art, I'm doing a big panel and I don't know how to reinforced it because is a little complicated is an huron , you give me an idea, but I still have some doubts about.

[@GommStainedGlass]

It's surprising how easy it can be if you just take your time with reinforcing your panel. Just make sure you get the metal from one side to the other so you don't have stress points.

[@DUGGANMUSIC]

Hi David. Sure would like to see how you soldered the restrip on top of the soldered lines and also how you did it for the galvanized strip.

[@GommStainedGlass]

check out the video on skylights kzbin.info/www/bejne/imjLeKp3os19iZY

[@johnbarnette3916]

thanks David, I could tell that was a difficult way to explain how things went, thanks for taking the time to explain what you could, as always take care

[@GommStainedGlass]

As Always, thanks for commenting. I felt like the first part got long but I tried to be more energetic later on so I would't put you to sleep! Thanks John!

[@andrescosta2992]

Reinforcing, so important when a project is in a big scale. I am on my 1st steps... ... just starting to decorate our home. Thnks so much for your continued support.

[@GommStainedGlass]

Only needs to be done on panels that are big. 3' x 3' is where it can be considered but when you hit 4' x 4' it's a must. 😃😃😃

[@theresevarney4715]

If I would have watched more, I would have got my answer. Thank you 😊

[@GommStainedGlass]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Clover12346]

So interesting and helpful thanks!

[@GommStainedGlass]

Thanks, we keep trying!!!! 🙂

[@colleenblakecalvert9909]

Excellent information, thank you!

[@GommStainedGlass]

Thanks, I thought that was some important information.

[@alethameadows9708]

Im glad i found your video i am fairly new to using came and zinc i will look for a video of start to finish of a small piece if you have one

[@GommStainedGlass]

We've got over 400 videos, sometimes we have to dig to find the ones we want!

[@teresad1313]

Hi David. Thanks for a very informative video. Would it be effective to solder Re-Strip on top of lead strips to reinforce a large leaded panel that has already been soldered on one sideline? My panel is roughly 41”w x 43”h and is quite heavy as it has a lot of pieces. I have already soldered the front side and am now worried that it could bow or break once installed. I will also be ‘cementing’ it and framing it in wood. It will be installed inside in a wall opening. The panel will be very heavy when it’s completed. I’d appreciate hearing your thoughts on this. Thanks.

[@teresad1313]

Soldered on one side as of yet.

[@teresad1313]

I’ve also used zinc U channel strips around the perimeter.

[@GommStainedGlass]

I did an "on-the-top" solder of restrip once when I didn't realize that my panel would be weak. It's not hidden and not as strong but it worked well and I didn't have any problem with the strength of the finished panel.

[@teresad1313]

Gomm Stained Glass thanks. I’m going to add two continuous vertices trips and one horizontal that breaks and solders to the verticals strips. Hope it helps.

[@aleciadooley-goode3431]

I am wondering if I could use cement decoratively on a panel? Any suggestions welcome!

[@GommStainedGlass]

I think that could be a potential mess, but it couldn't hurt to try it. I would suggest sandblasting or grinding where you want to stick cement so you'll have "tooth" for it to stick to. If it works I'd love to see the results, send it to [e-mail]

[@fockafacebook4345]

Hi my question is this...I'm making a set of windows (copperfoil) that range between 7ft/6.5ft tall by about 30 inches wide and they all are hanging pieces...Of course I'm going to be using restrip throughout the windows...i have already decided that I'm going to use brass U channel instead of zinc...I'm also going to place 2 sets of brass hooks at each corner so that would be 4 hooks total but the size still worries me...so what would you recommend I do to reinforce it in a way so that so brass won't pull away from the glass? I thought about soldering restrip over the corners at the top and also maybe soldering a small skinny L bracket to the back onto the face of the brass...if you have any other ideas or think that will work I would love to hear what your opinion is...thanks

[@GommStainedGlass]

You've outlined what you are going to do and it sounds like you've thought it out well. Make sure to use the restrip often across from one side to another to provide side to side support and then use it up and down so that it interlocks. I prefer zinc outer bar to u brass because it's much stronger. Good luck on the project, I'd love to see a photo of the completed install. You could send it to [e-mail]

[@fockafacebook4345]

@@GommStainedGlass ok thank you...it's a really big project so it might be a few months or 6 before Im actually finished...side note I was under the assumption that brass was actually stronger than zinc...I'll try to send you some photos when it's done...thanks again

[@GommStainedGlass]

@@fockafacebook4345 Brass can be stronger but zinc outer bar is bent in such a way that it forms two reinforcement folds in the metals creating an inner bat like you get in u shaped bar but also an outer bar which is why it's called outer bar

[@GommStainedGlass]

@@fockafacebook4345 You might take a look at our video on outer bar kzbin.info/www/bejne/r2KtfpWuYsR5bKM

[@fockafacebook4345]

@@GommStainedGlass Yeah that outer bar in your other video is the same kind I normally use...the reason I bring this whole thing up is because I've actually seen cases where the zinc (outer bar) pulled away from the glass verticaly hence why I was opting for the brass because the panels are so large...1other thing to note is that the brass chanelling that i'm looking at getting for this project also has that same kind of fold in the center of it...thank you for your input I really appreciate it

[@mbabaei]

Dear David, Thanks a bunch as I have learned so much from your videos. I understand that the strip has to go all the way across the length and the width of the design but I'm not clear when they cross each other at one or several points how they can be still be in one piece to make sure integrity as you mentioned. I didn't understand either why to black pieces of glass on the bottom og the glass got so far apart that you filled with lot of solder and hide them under the frame? Thanks again for very informative videos. In these examples did you use Zinc U channel framing? Thanks again. Cheers

[@GommStainedGlass]

At the 5:12 minute mark of the video, you can see what we do at an intersection..an "L" shaped bend buts up to the strip going the other direction..it will then transfer pressure from one side of the strip to the other side. The photos that showed zinc u channel were picture frames and the cardboard and photos slide into the zinc which holds them behind the glass. At 8:44 there is an additional photo where you can see more of the strip stacked up to create more strength. Additional views of the video may explain the process more completely.

[@mbabaei]

@@GommStainedGlass thank you very much for your guidance. I'll double check the L bend,. At the first glance it seemed that the bend compromises the rigidity, vs. going from end to end. Thanks a bunch again.

[@GommStainedGlass]

@@mbabaei You'll love it once you try the re-strip..it's pretty great material!

[@mbabaei]

Thanks again David, I'm designing from scratch and a stained glass window which fits in the transom over the main entrance It's about 56 by 22" And it's a panorama view of the nature (non geometric). No straight lines across to use the benefit of the copper re strip. Will it still work or should I simply use the zinc channel frames to reinforce? Cheers

[@GommStainedGlass]

@@mbabaei Zinc outer bar will help. The copper re-strip can usually be used to get across a panel. I've often run a strip halfway across a panel and then split the run an put two pieces running across two different directions to get the re-strip across to the other side.

[@ginah3585]

Will you please give more detail about the galvanized metal strips you used to reinforce your skylight? Specifically, what metal and gauge? Thank you

[@GommStainedGlass]

It's galvanized sheet metal that I got from a sheet metal shop that makes ducts. They cut strips 1/2" wide on a shear the gauge of the metal was the thinnest they had. Turns out that galvanized metal is pretty easy to solder. Good luck with yor projects!

[@davidhill1220]

Thanks very much Could you talk about how you painted the eye on the angles What paint would you use I subscribed a long time ago Patricia

[@GommStainedGlass]

🙂The angel eyes and faces were done using an airbrush. We sandblasted the glass so it has "tooth" a roughness that paint will stick to. Then Jeanne used an airbrush with enamel paints, her air brush teacher is a lot of help, Joe Flores..

[@chrisb3116]

Can leaded glass be repaired in place? I have two side lights and a transom light that are bowing a bit due to several soldered wires that have come off the glass. The wires are looped onto several support bars behind the glass. Can I push the panel gently on the opposite side and flux the joints to reattach the wires?

[@GommStainedGlass]

You can always try...the reason for removing a window for repair is that soldering needs to be done when it's flat, but replacing wires may be able to be done in place. Remember we're copper foil artists so our experience with leaded work is limited,

[@firehorsewoman414]

If you are using copper or brass came instead of lead, do you need to reinforce? The window in question is 2 feet wide by 10 feet tall. Also can you give suggestions for where to find a company that will put a panel sandwiched between tempered glass? I live in DFW area and have not been very successful in my search? Maybe I just am not looking for the right type of company.

[@GommStainedGlass]

Copper and Brass are much more rugged than lead so if the design is strong you can probably get away without additional reinforcement (IF the design is strong) www.abasg.com/shoplocator.shtml is a link to take you to the anaraku shop locator to find stained glass artists in your area who would be able to refer you to someone who does insulated units in your area (it wasn't working when I went to it so you may have to wait a day or so till they are active again. Good Luck!

[@nanschrag4628]

I’m building a 6 foot tall by ~2 foot wide window using the tiffany method predominantly. The window is divided in half vertically and the two sides are a mirror image of each other. Each side is 10 inches wide and I plan to use a ¼ inch lead H came down the center between the two sections. How much reinforcement do I need to build into the piece? I was planning to use the leaded H came all the way around the outside of the window as well. I could then place a ¼ inch rebar in the outside half of the lead came frame to strengthen the vertical sides and the top. Is that enough structure to stabilize the window, or should I also use the rebar on the back side of the window at about 2 feet and 4 feet from the bottom? The window will not be exposed to the elements since it will be inserted inside a window sill and the existing exterior window will remain in place.

[@GommStainedGlass]

For structure, I would use zinc rather than lead, since lead is so soft and isn't good for reinforcement. If you use lead, you'll need to cement your panel for good strength. The design sounds like it will be pretty stable. Good Luck,

[@nanschrag4628]

Thanks. I suspected you might tell me that. It's early enough to make the change. Just to clarify a bit more, if I use zinc came in all the places I had intended to use lead, does that mean I shouldn't need to reinforce with rebar at all? I do plan to use restripe copper in some of my soldering lines in the length of the piece on each side.

[@GommStainedGlass]

@@nanschrag4628 From your description, it sounds like the zinc will be sufficient..I always try to overbuild so that I don't run into trouble.

[@GommStainedGlass]

@@nanschrag4628 I don't think you'll need rebar. Remember that we only do the copper foil method in our studio..but zinc is stout stuff.

[@MrRAPTORv8]

can you also use 18 gauge thin copper wire for reinforce on a larger stained glass window and solder following with the solder lines on the outer -not in between the glass

[@GommStainedGlass]

You could use 18 ga wire, but your finished result wouldn't be as elegant.

[@cynthialao968]

Very informative. Thanks for sharing your knowledge :-)

[@GommStainedGlass]

I hope some of our other videos are equally helpful ..I just did another about restrip just to make sure everything was covered kzbin.info/www/bejne/fWiWmplqq798jpo

[@theresevarney4715]

Can you use restrip horizontally and diagonally?

[@GommStainedGlass]

Yes with different results but everything you add gives more strength.

[@theresevarney4715]

@@GommStainedGlass Thank you 😊

[@vicrothman1402]

The photo of the rebar in the opening of the video is CONSTRUCTION rebar used in cement work, NOT in stained glass work

[@GommStainedGlass]

That's true and further on I show rebar placed in cement block, they are just more interesting than seeing me talk. Thanks for commenting.

[@sunshinem3958]

I have found that I had to trim down the re-strip wire cause it would be a little to high, I have had to use this as a filler not that , that was was it was suppose to be used for but it help fill in some gaps

[@GommStainedGlass]

I've only had a height problem once with restrip and that was when I soldered the panel first and then added the strip later because I didn't realize I would need it. Thanks for your comment, it's helpful to learn how it goes for you!

[@glassmaker5823]

Thanks Dave great tips!

[@GommStainedGlass]

Thank you! It really helps to know you find value in the videos we put up. When you tell us what you like and make comments it helps us figure what to do next!

[@yvonnenystrom]

Strongline by Morton is much better to use as it’s the same height as most glass and re-strip is slightly higher than most glass and it leaves an “edge” on your window project.

[@GommStainedGlass]

Thanks for the information. I don't get "edge" by letting my solder run high. We'll take a look at Strongline.

[@glasbroeslerberlin5849]

just use lead profiles and use tiffany technik only for small sizes. then exchanging broken glass pieces is affordable for the customer. if you want to make it super durabel use brass profiles.repairing those copperfoil things is no fun ,greets from berlin

[@GommStainedGlass]

I just put up a video on how we fix a broken piece in the copper foil method that you might find interesting. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oZLSgXZ-nLaVhtU

[@Heraclitean]

Thanks Dave.

[@GommStainedGlass]

re-strip is versatile product that we use often

[@ashleysmith8154]

This was perfect! Thank you for the information!

[@GommStainedGlass]

Thanks, we love re-strip and love using it! 🙂🙂🙂

[@Avotts]

What solder do you use??

[@GommStainedGlass]

50/50 solder, it's great! 🙂🙂🙂

[@davidhill1220]

I wish I could see how to fix a wobbly piece It’s a window catcher of a Santa Clause The head is wobbly

[@GommStainedGlass]

you can apply restrip to the edge of the glass on a suncatcher and it will make it more rigid.