Beyond V6 | Training for Intermediate Climbers - Strength, Power, and Endurance

[@sahandakane]

Thank you for watching! A few clarifications about the maximum weight hangs - (1) Here, we are aiming for 90-95% intensity rather than 100%. We mention in the video that the weight and edge size should be chosen in a way that 7 seconds are the absolute maximum, but this was somewhat misleading. In our training, we choose the weight that results in failure in 10 seconds on a 15 mm edge. (2) In this video, we both actually trained on 15 mm edges. As we explained in the video, this training has helped us the best even though we tried different finger training protocols in the past. Sorry for the confusion. We'll try to be more clear in future videos!

[@B0sstones]

This gym looks amazing

[@rdawggg]

This is so awesome. Thank you so much! You are both incredibly strong and inspiring! Can't wait for more content.

[@sahandakane]

Thank you for watching and your kind words! :)

[@gabrielbessas7984]

Very useful, it's great to have such good data

[@sahandakane]

Thank you! Glad to hear it was helpful.

[@sergeye.2151]

Great video! Keep doing! Thanks!!!

[@sahandakane]

Thank you :)

[@swissard68]

Awesome video. Thanks guys. Looking forward to seeing more 😁😁😁

[@sahandakane]

Thank you so much!!

[@Roubainx]

Great video! Subscribed and here for more

[@sahandakane]

Thank you for watching and subscribing! Will do more training videos soon.

[@aportadaesquerda]

nice video! personally, if one of your strength training exercises is max hangs, i'd rather do it at the beginning of the session as opposed to after 90 mins of bouldering with hard moves for two reasons. fistly because max hangs help with forearm muscle recruitment, secondly because it's an extremely intense exercise that should be executed while fresh

[@sahandakane]

Thank you for watching :) Yes, we absolutely agree with you. The strength training should be done earlier in the session when you’re fresh. We start our fingerboard training when we’re still fresh and also fully warmed up to avoid injury.

[@JorgePacker]

Cool video! 👍

[@sahandakane]

Thank you!

[@kadenswift528]

good stuff! keep it up!

[@sahandakane]

Thank you!

[@shp4rk]

Haven’t seen thread wall before. Its amazing. Who came up with it 😮

[@sahandakane]

We had never used it either until this new gym opened last year! It is pretty cool!

[@lukastrnka9190]

Very helpful, thnx. I have a question how often do you climb?? :)

[@sahandakane]

Thank you for watching! Depends on outdoor trips and how tired we are, but usually three times a week :)

[@ronaldomac4918]

Looks like a great gym, is this in England......?

[@sahandakane]

Thank you for watching! This gym is called North Mass Boulders and is located in Indianapolis, USA.

[@mitchellbaker4806]

Do you have a V4 to V5 video?

[@sahandakane]

Thank you for watching! We'll plan to cover this topic in the future videos. Speaking from our experience, we would focus more on general fitness, bodyweight pull-ups, and maybe some bodyweight hangs.

[@gergelymartonffyclimbing]

Awesome video, but in my humble opinion, if you are training for max fingerstrength 1 minute rest not enough, or you did not actually work at your limit. I guarantee that you can't hold on 6 times with you max weight with only 53 sec rest. 1 rep maxes should be done only in rested state.

[@sahandakane]

Thank you for watching! We understand your point of maximum weight hangs and longer rest and we have trained that way in the past. However, the training protocol we are following is based on an intensity of 9-9.5 out of 10 and this has benefited us greatly. So, for an intensity of 10, a longer rest is definitely needed as you suggest. We totally understand there are many protocols to follow, but we have adjusted our finger training based on the research done by Eric Horst as we explain in the video.

[@gergelymartonffyclimbing]

@@sahandakane I see, yes with 90 percent is a different game, then i might give it a try myself thank you for the kind words!

[@paullier1253]

4:35 stepping barefoot on the rungs should get you kicked out of the gym if you ask me. Not cool.