Micro Hangboarding: Finger Strength Hack or Insanity?

[@terraflow__bryanburdo4547]

"...a lot of suffering occurs there..." lol

[@RonaldoMessina]

Good thing you are drilling not in a line, this makes it less likely to split due to having holes along a grain line. +1 for counterboring the holes for screws :) beech is great for that because it have very "tight" grain (contrarily to ash, for example). You seem to have access to a well equipped shop now!

[@dukeofnuke2446]

Also beech just feels great on the skin

[@BadukTV]

dude you're like the casey neistet of climbing. very informative video.

[@mohammadlevy9668]

Maybe someone already mentioned this, but you can get a very even radius using a roundover bit in a router. Much more consistent than by hand

[@paulgennaro2001]

Yo man this topic is so relevant today with micros going up in a lot gyms in 2022. Dude, you need to make more videos man! Netflix is too boring! Hope all is well with you and your still crushing and planning to make vids in the future!

[@thebuachaille]

Another great motivation booster Mani, keep up the great work 💪🏻😃

[@zzpumpking8371]

Midtbo sagte dass man nicht an zu kleinen trainieren sollte, jedoch mit Gewicht an etwas grösseren, da es sonst mehr um Reibung geht. Was hältst du davon? Ist es nur wegen den „compslopers“?

[@gordonneverdies]

Great episode 🙏💪

[@spencerharrison5114]

It would be great to get a follow up. What has happened as you've used these smaller holds over time?

[@VDB420]

Cool holds!

[@maxpowell4687]

Such a sick video. Ur channel makes me so phyced to train

[@remirvt]

I think climbers should do both, like eva lopez's program Do some max weight dead hang on large edge (one cycle) : structurals changes Then jump into smalls edges with less weight (one cycle) : neurologicals changes At the beggining of the second cycle, you feel weak but with time, you just feal more strong on the small. (I try and it's also possible to do both in the same session with a non linear approach) What's your protocol and periodization, I'm little curious ?

[@ManitheMonkey]

Since I didn't have access to such small holds until recently I'm still not quite sure how I'm going to hit them systematically.. they take quite some recovery too for the finger tips :) The very small ones definitely only make sense during max strength cycles for me, so much I can tell already.

[@ianwyatt6138]

How do you joints feel the next day after the micro hangs?

[@remirvt]

ian wyatt Honestly, if you half crimp (which I recommend), it’s not bad on articulation because you are often at body weight ( no weight added ) It is not as bad as people think. You definitely should do it for the specificity.

[@climbscience4813]

If you want to get into some nitty-gritty details about hangboard protocols, you probably want to listen to this podcast: www.podbean.com/media/share/pb-qciy9-744edc Very fascinating for me and also has some long term experience with the eva lopez approach in it. ;-)

[@pederstrand8349]

Should be titled: Micro Hangboarding; Climbing with the Devil. Great video!!

[@riorica1]

Hey Mani, I'm very new to climbing and need to improve my finger strength - should I use a hang board? I'm not sure how to know when it is appropriate for me to start working on hanging from the large holds and then how will I know that I'm ready to progress?

[@0rbitalmechankx]

I'd say at least year of consistent climbing before starting work on the traditional campus/hang board. If you climb at a gym I'd ask more experienced climbers if they think it's a good time to progress. The big thing is to listen to your body and make small transitions. There is plenty to learn from the largest hang size and I still use them frequently. If your gym has a large open hand campus holds (~2 inch diameter oval holds) you can probably start now

[@Cacovangor]

Madd Hattur folks ask a lot about when to start hangboarding, but the truth is you should start hangboarding when recruitment and contact strength on holds become limiting factors towards progress. This means you’re climbing as consistently as scheduling and life permits and are finding a plateau due to inability to grab and maintain on smaller, more sloped, and/or less textured.

[@dukeofnuke2446]

I found for myself at least, that hangboarding early on is not as useful, for me the best thing to improve was to train back strength and core strength and really work on my footwork

[@ManitheMonkey]

I made a video called "When should you start hangboarding?". Essentially, climb more, especially if you're still a beginner. Get some milage and a first plateau, then reconsider.

[@dukeofnuke2446]

@@ManitheMonkey Yes I think that is the most important part hitting a real plateau that you can't seem to get around by improving more technique and upper body strength !

[@sylasviper715]

Question. I lost my ring finger to the end of the fingernail just as the nail root. Will I still be able to use that finger for grip? Still in healing process, but want to gain strength so I can eventually do parkour again.

[@millacabral9475]

If it doesn't hurt anymore in a few months and it's healed, you can probably build resistance and skin around it and hang with all your fingers. It's a common thing to lose a piece of that finger, I know about three people that are missing some of it. Your body is very adaptable.

[@sylasviper715]

@@millacabral9475 Oh yea true. I can train some callouses around the end of the finger. cheers!

[@noob78]

@@sylasviper715 So did you succeed?

[@sylasviper715]

@@noob78 Ive got pip driver prosthetic. You can google it. My right hand is now stronger than my left.. I'm left handed. So yea.. It worked XD.

[@clownish0697]

Billa at 6:03. Do you live in Austria?

[@LZmiljoona]

Yes, he does, and he is Austrian :)

[@kubaskoupy]

We have Billa in Czech Republic too, and in some more countries

[@jneumonik]

Revisiting this video. I just purchased some lattice micros. Super excited to build up to hanging on the 4mm. Do you find more value in training micros or 20mm max hangs? I feel like both are great but leaning more towards micros and if possible with weight.

[@austinrodriguez8573]

Did you end up doing one over the other? How did it turn out?

[@jneumonik]

@@austinrodriguez8573 Honestly, I think there's no right answer at this time. I do both. I'm still working on hanging bw on 6mm. Recently I've been training on tension 7mm doing a pullup adding 10lbs. But I also have been training 20mm max hangs 7 sec only adding about 92 lbs. Training both have been keeping my fingers strong.

[@austinrodriguez8573]

@@jneumonik awesome. I've been wondering which is more important myself. I'm really strong on the 20mm and wondering if should focus micros or one hand hangs or a mix of both

[@НиколайТобиас]

@@austinrodriguez8573 i found that 14 mm for MAW works better than 20 mm for me (basically an idea is that if part of joint rests on hold loading is different compared to small holdes, otherwise it is only matter on leverage and skin condition and strength from 14 mm is more translatable to small edges than from 20 mm while still being friendly for skin and not very extreme)

[@austinrodriguez8573]

@Валерий Левашин agreed. I ended up doing weighted hangs on 10mm over the last year and just tested on the 20mm to track progress. I think it translated better. The caveat being you need to be pretty strong on the 20mm before moving to smaller edges

[@michaelemmenegger3576]

Du bist unglaublich!

[@matgof03]

I can do 2 pull ups on the 10 mm micro but cant hang on the 8mm Edit: spelling

[@TheMr880]

Hello Mani! Can you tell me what type of pain you were experiencing? Was it tendon or skin? both? Thank you love your channel!

[@ciepularys]

Like putting your fingertips in a vice

[@xerxes_ysz]

I found myself really bad at the open hands. Do you have any (particular) training method on that?

[@ManitheMonkey]

Hangboarding on open hands :)

[@ManitheMonkey]

Start with getting a bit more open hang time per session, and then increase the difficulty and make the hang time shorter. This should help coordinating your fore arm muscles better for the open stuff. Sometimes it's only the brain which dosen't want to do a certain grip type, rather than the muscles.

[@tomgodec294]

Mani how tall are you?

[@ManitheMonkey]

173cm I think. Haven't measured for a long time maybe I should re check

[@bigpapaboomboom9735]

Smart

[@fabiainski8142]

How many finger sessions a week?

[@climbscience4813]

All of them!

[@climbscience4813]

Seriously though, if you want to have a good answer, you should be more specific about how long you have been climbing and how many days a week you go climbing. I guess the easy answer would be 2 (for most people), but generally I would say 0-3.

[@yowlfrommybowel9503]

Dude you became a beast since you started to eat meat again, at least from my limited point of view. This brings me to a question I already asked myself a lot. What´s your opinion on gaining strength, but at the same time muscle mass, and with it irreversible weight you have to hold on the wall. I mean guys like bodybuilders are just way too heavy, but I have a feeling that a lot of the older guys in my gym just got way too heavy to still perform at their absolute peak. Like where would you draw the line for functional muscle mass? at least if there is one.

[@MythAvatar]

Wait, when did he stop being vegan?

[@yowlfrommybowel9503]

@@MythAvatar I think the video is called " we have to talk about diet again". pretty much since then I guess

[@ManitheMonkey]

Yep, I'm quite heavy at the moment (always around 65 66kg empty in the morning compared to 60,3 or something after the 75hr dry fast for example). Good question. Fasting plays one important part of the kinda complex answer. If you have access to animal products and fasting, you can pretty much jump from anabolic to catabolic like turning a light switch on and off. The thing is fasting won't cause you muscle loss. In my case right now, I know that I'm pretty strong atm, but I don't feel it that much due to the heavier weight, which is also fat. Quite convenient to live and train in that state I gotta say, bit of bonus weight, kinda anabolic, good recovery and so on. However, give me 3 days of fasting losing all the access fat and water, and one proper refeed containing carbs and I'll take off (probably what I'll do once the weather gets better, although I don't really have a project for which it would be necessary I think).

[@ManitheMonkey]

Seems like I gotta make one of these annoying "Why I'm not vegan anymore" videos.. otherwise people won't know what's up in years. I just didn't want to capitalize on the situation like it's usually being done :/

[@yowlfrommybowel9503]

@@ManitheMonkey As long as you speak out your honest truth and how you experienced it, I don´t think so. Just an honest contribution to a discussion that is and has to be led. I´d be pretty interested in what you´re eating right now, and not just these little post workout meals. Those seem pretty randomly cooked, though very delicious! While just listening to the body can be a wonderful way of eating, he has to be kinda trained so that you want the right foods. whatever, too complicated topic for a single yt comment !

[@lewpressler2572]

Hello mani, I am a vegetarian that eats a lot of eggs because I've heard that it's good for vegetarians. I'm a climber and I have the feeling, that I'm less sick and have less problens than most of the other people I know. I'm 16 and from the south of Upperaustria. What do you think, is it bad for me to be vegetarian? I started getting vegetarian when I was about ten years old because I didn't want animals to die because I eat them. Greetings, Lew

[@millacabral9475]

Man, I'm not 100% sure, but i guess with anything it's good to be strong, but small. Like huge pecks are annoying when crossing over, but a strong chest is important for stuff like mantles and compression especially. Look at Alex Megos. And Magnus Midtbo. You know? Mani trains those ring bodyweight flies, as you probably noticed, which is a heavy chest exercise.

[@millacabral9475]

I just want to say that any diet is good if you eat a variety of healthy, whole grains, vegetables, beans and stuff. I am vegetarian and I feel much better this way than eating meat, but that's personal to everyone. I would suggest that if you do experiment with animal flesh, go really slow, because your body will freak out a little. Remember there are a lot of really good atheletes who are vegetarian or vegan, you just need to eat everything important and with variety :)

[@imxd9698]

lol you are so salty about the inconsistent beastmaker holds haha. anyway thanks for making these vids you're a fuckin beast and vids are good motivation!!

[@ManitheMonkey]

haha those damn micros, 33POUNDS for that stuff!!&%§ and mine are better :D

[@crzy1gs]

Don't blame him. Defeats the point paying so much for a small edge that then isn't at all uniform with others :s

[@imxd9698]

@@crzy1gs he def has the right to complain it's just kinda funnyy lol. beastmaker step your fucking QA process up!!

[@marcg3923]

i did 4 mm pullup when i was still climbing 6a

[@MacHalaG]

@Matthew Kozic he's probably talking about how high was he able to pull himself up ;)

[@benja_mint]

then your technique must suck! haha but honestly if that is true, you have a genetic gift and you should use it! :D