BG "Engine Performance Restoration" Motor Flush on a GM 3.6 High Feature V6

GM's High Feature V6 engine is notorious for sludging up and causing issues with regards to timing chain stretch, VVT solenoid failure, and cam phaser failure. I have stated in the past how important it is to change your oil every 4-5k miles, however there's a good chance you may not know the complete maintenance history of your vehicle's engine.
All of that being said, in this video I perform an engine flush on my 2015 Chevy Impala Limited with the 3.6 liter LFX V6 using BG Products' "Engine Performance Restoration" engine flush.
The instructions call for you to pour the product into the crankcase immediately prior to an oil change. I will not be pouring this into dirty oil. Instead, I will be using fresh SuperTech synthetic 5W30 oil with the EPR, followed by a rinse oil, followed by a regular oil change with Valvoline Extended Protection 5W30 with an AC Delco UPF63R oil filter.
Also at this time, I pour some of BG's 44K fuel system cleaner into the gas tank.
Does this actually work? You be the judge!
From Amazon:
www.amazon.com/dp/B07HJFJ1X7
From eBay:
www.ebay.com/itm/224853607312
Links to the Catch Can and Clean Side Separator:
Catch Can:
www.amazon.com/Sporacingrts-C...
Clean Side Separator:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08...
or:
www.eliteengineeringusa.com/c...
Catch Can install video:
• GM 3.6 LFX V6 Catch Ca...
Clean Side Separator install video:
• GM 3.6 Liter V6 High-F...
Thanks for watching! Any questions or comments, please post below. If you found this informative or helpful in any way, give a the video a thumbs up! Be sure to check out my other videos, hit the subscribe button, and ring the bell to be notified of new videos! If you're feeling generous, hit the "Thanks" button below to show your gratitude!
#impala #lfx #motorflush #bgepr

[@Docfrazier81]

Link to catch can/ oil separator? I need one for my 13 9C1.

[@CertifiedShadetree]

Catch Can: www.amazon.com/Sporacingrts-Compact-Baffled-3-Port-Inlets/dp/B08FDD1RPJ/ Clean Side Separator: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086WN3127 or: www.eliteengineeringusa.com/clean-side-oil-separator/ Catch Can install video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y4nPeGimpJZofNk Clean Side Separator install video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nqaYaJ99r92ciLs

[@CertifiedShadetree]

I have added links and install videos for each product to the video description..

[@CertifiedShadetree]

​@@kondon-jt8jtFuckin' A right I do!!🤣

[@kurt5490]

I agree with draining oil and replacing filter before flush. 1 crap that the filtter caught stays there and doesn't get dissolved and reintroduced to the engine. 2 fresh oil allows the solvent to work on actual sludge/varnish and not "get wasted" on whatever is in solution/suspension. 3 worst case scenario-if flushing with used oil/filter plugs then bypasses. Or an oil galley plugs. Remove yhat burden, remove the risk and maximize the efficacy.

[@haac4825]

That BG epr flush really works wow. Oil came out super black.

[@CertifiedShadetree]

Yep, it's good stuff!

[@TofuInc]

Used the $322 BG kit on a Traverse that had the 3.6 in it. It used 2-3 quarts of oil between changes and smoked bad on startup. After that it no longer uses any oil between changes and no longer smokes. There were chunks that came out with the 1st round of cleaner and the rise oil came out black. We've put another 16k miles on it since. Way cheaper than an engine.

[@CertifiedShadetree]

Way cheaper, and completely worth a shot if you're having those issues!

[@ruckustv7614]

Did u do regular maintenance? A lot of that can be avoided with regular maintenance on schedule

[@TofuInc]

@@ruckustv7614 Acquired the vehicle used with 150K+ miles.

[@Guido19]

Lmaooo! Love the intro man! Great video

[@CertifiedShadetree]

🤣🤣I shouldn't quit my day job..

[@Guido19]

@@CertifiedShadetree 🤣🤣🤣

[@junkerjason7637]

That cheap Super tech 5w30 full synthetic dexos is all I have run in my 2012 Impala 3.6 VVT. for the last 180,00 miles with a tough guard FRAM 😱. Don't know what was used for oil the first 20k as it was a HERTZ RENTAL car 😱. 202,500 miles on it now. Gets ran hard every day. Delivery vehicle 😱. Runs great, original plugs in it yet. I change my oil every 5k max, trans fluid every 25k max. No mods at all, engine never been apart. Great car so far, only trouble I have had was a purge solenoid, and 3 HVAC actuators

[@CertifiedShadetree]

Damn, original plugs still?!? The actuators going bad is no surprise, though. Changing the oil frequently really is the key to long life on these 3.6's!!

[@calvin8115]

What transmission fluid do you use And is the fluid flushed out or just changed out?

[@jimmothyjoyner]

awesome video per the usual man! i bought a 2013 3.6 Police in December with 87k, already have it up to 102k with all the commuting i do. i’ve already done the CRC intake cleaner but i guarantee you this is also badly needed. you know the cops dogged the shit out of this thing before i owned it, and/or sat and idled it for 20k hours lmao. either way, you know my engine’s probably begging for this! also still need to modify the PCV valve and add the clean air separator. just gotta find the energy 🤣 great vid man, please don’t ever quit making them!

[@CertifiedShadetree]

Thanks, and congrats on the purchase! 🍻 Would be curious to see how sludged the engine was and how much oil went into the intake after all the police abuse. You just know whomever drove it didn't give 2 shits about the quirks of the LFX!!

[@javo07]

I recomend doing a flood start before crancking the engine so you can build pressure. You do that by pressing the gas pedal all the way while crancking, the engine will not start until you let go of the pedal.

[@CertifiedShadetree]

🤔 Color me intrigued..

[@patrickstack5185]

What you consider a "rinse oil," the Super Tech, is not at all an inferior cheap oil. It's from Warren Industries, that produces oil for many different brands. I've used their synthetics for several years, my Chevy p/u has just passed 340,000 miles, oil changes at 4,000 with Wix filter, bore scope confirms ZERO sludge anywhere. The internals look like new, just has oil on them. Our BMW has only 164K, but with the same maintenance pattern. BMW dealer shop says no buildup seen at all. I'm only suggesting that the Super Tech is indeed a completely serviceable oil, fully on par with the Valvoline or any other major oil, and far less costly. Also, the Costco oil is from Warren as well, virtually identical, and that is an even better value.

[@Admin-ie9hp]

But also works great is the shop I get my oil at. It's about 20 minutes away I'll let my car warm up before I leave. Add the epr and drive there.

[@chicagorc3967]

i like vice grip but dont like the dorky car remarks lol Loved your into! LOL

[@chipjumper]

Tech 2 has a special function in the powertrain area to hold idle speed at whatever you want it by to be.

[@CertifiedShadetree]

Yeah, that's what everyone was telling me in the live chat. I seriously need to investigate further!!

[@jimmothyjoyner]

Thanks!

[@CertifiedShadetree]

And a big THANK YOU to you!!

[@ahmadghosheh3104]

I used the BG engine performance on my 2003 Camry with 285120 miles. The engine doesn't have sludge or dirty, I know because I did a head gasket and seen it's insides lol. But, it dirtied thenoil quick and it will use about half a quart in 3000 miles. I poured the stuff in and took it on a drive for 30 minutes and changed the oil. Yeah, that stuff stunk and will smell it for probably another oil change. One thing I noticed is the oil on the dip stick stayed clean very long time, didn't look dark quick. Also no oil use at all. I am happy with it. Did the same on the 2009 Camry V6 I have too with 180K miles. I didn't do the rinse however on both cases. But I will do a short interval oil change, 3000 miles vs the usual 5000 miles.

[@CertifiedShadetree]

Curious what type of drive you took the car on. Was thinking that going out on the freeway and dropping out of overdrive to keep the RPMs high (but not too high) might achieve the same result as sitting still and high idling. 🤷‍♂️

[@ahmadghosheh3104]

@@CertifiedShadetree Highway drive with little city. But the RPM stayed around 2000+/- on the highway. Small 4 cylinder you know, doesn't take much. The V6 drove it at 65-70 for 18 miles then turned back. It was about 2K +/-. Didn't think 10 minutes per instructions were good enough.

[@CertifiedShadetree]

@@ahmadghosheh3104 Thanks for the info! 👍

[@TheShornak]

Ok yes I was going to suggest the CRC cleaner but you did already. I've done it twice. When I change the oil I jack up the front end a little to make it easier to get under it and also I figure it angles the drain valve back a little to drain more ot the dirty oil out. I used to have this cool metal funnel, bought it in the early 80's. Anyway it had a screen in the bottom of it and I would strain the oil through it then at the end clean it with carb cleaner and see what was left behind that cam out of the crankcase. I have 113k on my 13 Impala. I am seriously thinking of doing this too. Definitely the 445 gas additive. I know it's kind of pricey but I just watched a video where a guy soaks spark plugs in different cleaners and 1 in just gasoline, the 445 did the best cleaning by far.

[@CertifiedShadetree]

Did it have a flexible metal hose on the end of it? Had one like that at an old job of mine - we used it to funnel gas into the lawn equipment. Filter kept the crud from getting into the fuel tank..

[@johnmilner7603]

30:08 Here is when you should use a funnel. Never drain your oil when it’s cold unless you like to have old left over oil in the pan.

[@unitedwestanddividedwefall3521]

Hey some Franzia wine for the impala. What a gentleman. Lol

[@CertifiedShadetree]

A-ha, Franzia, that's what that shit's called!! I couldn't for the life of me remember the name! 🤣 And yes, nothing but the finest 🥂 🍾 for the ole Impaler!! 🤣🤣

[@unitedwestanddividedwefall3521]

@@CertifiedShadetree lol as a joke I call mine vlad the impaler lol

[@CertifiedShadetree]

@@unitedwestanddividedwefall3521 I used to call my old 04 Impala just "The Impaler" cause I impaled a fox on the Kansas Turnpike with it..🤣

[@chipjumper]

OH NO YOU DIDNT! I’ve been considering this for the 2016 vintage 50k mile 3.6 I installed over the past weekend in my 2013…

[@camaromodschannel]

LOL nice on the VGG intro..LOL

[@CertifiedShadetree]

🤣🤣🤣

[@silverageson]

Will them products going to void my audi a7 s line tdi (diesel) 2021 warranty? I have been told by audi dealer service manager yes it will.

[@CertifiedShadetree]

Couldn't tell you. That might be something to ask BG Products directly.

[@skylarscales9922]

Are all 2012 Impala’s direct injection ? Because for years now the Autozone app list there is a regular fuel injected version of the 3.6 in the Impala it’s got me wondering

[@CertifiedShadetree]

Yes, they are all direct injection. What AutoZone (and elsewhere) has is a listing for a Flex Fuel version and one for a non-Flex Fuel version. The only way to tell if yours is Flex Fuel is if you have a yellow gas cap and/or a Flex Fuel badge on the right side of the trunk lid (which switched to a sticker the driver's side quarter window in the 2014-2016 Impala Limited, since the "Limited" badge is where the Flex Fuel badge used to reside.)

[@skylarscales9922]

@@CertifiedShadetree Thank you for clearing that up it had me confused! I am currently looking for another Impala I sold my 2008 LT 3.9 2 years ago and I want to experience the 3.6 power!

[@CertifiedShadetree]

@@skylarscales9922 You won't be disappointed!!😎

[@johnmilner7603]

If you have problems with name brand oils then you have bigger issues with your engine. LOL about Valvoline being bad. I’ve used it many yrs in Z/28’s from my 1968 which I bought in 1973 to my current 70 Z/28. Valvoline, Castrol, Pennzoil, Redline, Kendall, Amsoil, Driven which used to be Joe Gibbs oil, they’re all excellent oils. I didn’t mention Mobil 1 cause I lost a solid lifter cam using it.

[@SAAN27]

I have 100 96k on my 2012 ltz, I have been using full synthetic since 100k, and I don't burn any oil or have any issues, so I would only do this process if someone couldn't provide maintenance records

[@CertifiedShadetree]

With the LFX and the later LGX engines it's truly coin flip, as they aren't plagued with the issues the earlier 3.6's had. I would absolutely recommend a regiment of this on the older LLT and LY7 engines regardless of condition and maintenance history. LLT and older are the ones that gave the 3.6 its bad reputation..

[@tinali9200]

Actually that “cheap” rinse oil tests out better than Valvoline. More dispersants and detergents and general additive package. Watch Project Farm.

[@CertifiedShadetree]

I have watched PF's videos on Super Tech!! I would say this is an apples to oranges comparison, tho. PF never tested the Valvoline Extended Performance Ultra Synthetic (he tested the cheap Valv synthetic,) and I'm not using the ST Ultra Synthetic (I'm using the lesser of the ST Synthetics.) Kind of a moot point anyway, I haven't used a rinse oil in my subsequent BG EPR flushes..

[@bradmccoppin2194]

Hello, I have a 2012 impala LT with 3.6l with 60k miles, I keep it well maintained, but I have a p0019 and that's the only code I have, but the check engine light comes and goes. I did do the modification to the pcv valve. Do you have any idea what is wrong, with this code?

[@CertifiedShadetree]

I would try removing and cleaning the Variable Valve Timing solenoids first. Remove and clean the crank sensor and cam position sensor after that.

[@mozpogson3639]

When I bought my car I changed the filter and oil, but use diesel oil. Then change filter every 1K klms for 5k klms. Using diesel oil cleans out the rubbish.

[@CertifiedShadetree]

Is there a specific brand you used? How well did it clean out the engine?

[@mozpogson3639]

@@CertifiedShadetree cleaned very well and I use Penrite oil.

[@CertifiedShadetree]

@@mozpogson3639 How much oil did the engine consume between oil changes with the Penrite?

[@mozpogson3639]

@@CertifiedShadetree zero

[@jamesyarbrough4777]

im running delo 15/40 in my toyota right now for this purpose

[@jeffcuevas5728]

no before or after pics or video?

[@CertifiedShadetree]

Well yeah, there's all 3 near the end of the video!!

[@markdubyk7039]

Great video. I didn't know that much gunk was produced by this engine. My '16 Limited LTZ has 135,000 on the clock. Looks like I have a new project coming up. BTW, where'd you get the cool Impala air bag logo?

[@CertifiedShadetree]

There's a KZbinr called 89imp03 that makes them and sells them on eBay: www.ebay.com/itm/165437785768

[@BretWFL]

I have a 14 LTZ. Thought the same thing about the logo. Very cool indeed.

[@chipjumper]

Oh wait I thought you got the $330 kit that has the gallon jugs of EPR…

[@CertifiedShadetree]

Ha, nah I didn't go to that extreme!! 🤣

[@szbert]

you need a set of ramps buddy :)

[@CertifiedShadetree]

🤣 Nah, I'm still delusional enough to think I can fit under the car!!

[@szbert]

@@CertifiedShadetree I hear ya!. Good vid by the way. I'm going to be doing this on a couple of my cars. Thanks.

[@CertifiedShadetree]

@Harvey S 🍻

[@billcowhig5739]

Question: I have a 2000 Toyota Tacoma that developed bad sludge that I am in the process of cleaning at the moment. You installed something in the PCV lines that collects blow-by oil (gas) and something else that separates out oil. Positive crankcase ventilation is the same on a DI engine? Or not? Would my Tacoma PCV system have possibly caused the oil sludge problem? Could what you installed be helpful to my pickup? I plan to use the same engine flush procedure after I have the upper and lower engine cleaned out by hand. Using brake cleaner on underside of valve cover and stuff inside the lower end, but opted to use diesel to clean the camshaft area, to be a bit more gentle. What sludge is left after cleaning is what I hope the BG product will clean out, without harming the bearings. Especially want to break the oil rings free, so the cylinder walls don’t keep getting worn.

[@CertifiedShadetree]

Yes the PCV system is the same on a DI engine, and yes it certainly could have been the cause for the engine to sludge up. The catch can (on the dirty side) and the clean-side separator are more for keeping blow-by out of the intake tube and intake manifold, thus cutting down on the amount of carbon build-up on the backs of the intake valves. With port injection, the fuel injectors spray directly at the backs of the intake valves so there isn't any urgent need to capture the oil blow-by, as the fuel washes away any deposits. Not the case with direct injection. So with that digression out of the way, a catch can and clean side separator certainly wouldn't hurt, but I doubt they'd help cut down on the amount of sludge inside the engine. The issues the GM 3.6 had with sludging have to do with the dirty side of the PCV being too restrictive, so I would certainly focus on that. The solution to the 3.6 was a revised valve cover gasket that opened up the area beneath the PCV and also a PCV with larger holes. I don't know if you could somehow adapt a larger diameter PCV valve or open up the chamber beneath where it sits in the valve cover? Regardless, best of luck to you in your quest to cut down on engine sludge!! 🍻

[@billcowhig5739]

@@CertifiedShadetree you have my respect for taking time to respond so thoroughly to my question. I will get a new PVC valve and new hoses since that system might have something to do with generating the sludge. But, I do not see myself trying to enlarge the valve cover hole to add a larger PCV valve. The existing valve goes into the valve cover but you cannot see it coming out because there is a non-removable covering metal plate underneath that has some space to let vapors circulate, I am guessing. This 2000 Tacoma has 157,000 miles on it. I also may try to replace the PCV grommet because it is old, but it looks ok. I am having difficulty finding a valve adjustment tool. Your links, I think, were out of stock. Most places that carry the official Toyota PN (09248-55040 for both, 09248-05420 for lifting tool, and 09248-05410 for holding tool) tool are either out of stock or tell you to place an order and they will order from the mfg and let them drop ship to you. And their price is up around $175, not cheap. I did find one knockoff, at $80, but I am a little leery of that website. Anyway, I am on the hunt and wondering how hard it would be for two lame backyard mechanics to use simple hand tools to do that job? Lastly, you removed the exhaust camshaft to easier get at their shims, saying something about the intake camshaft being harder to take out. In my Haines manual for my Tacoma there is a procedure “Camshafts and valve lifters - removal, inspection and installation.” It doesn’t seem all that much extra trouble to get both camshafts out and back in. That procedure is about tearing the top of the head down to get precise measurements for things like: thrust clearance, free length of camshaft gear spring, height of each cam lobe, diameter of each journal, backlash between the camshaft gears, and if those measures are out of spec, buy new camshafts or head. Not a compelling reason to embark on taking those measures, however the remove and replace isn’t all that complicated, it seems to me. And my position of needing to get that space as clean as possible (by hand), I am thinking of removing both camshafts. Would you advise against my attempting that? And, fyi, there is a simple procedure for taking that sub-gear off the exhaust camshaft, taking it apart, and putting it back together.

[@falsem1nd]

There's a reason BG put clear instructions on the back of the can, never understood people that deviate from them without explaining the reason. Bring the engine to operating temp, then run for 10 minutes with EPR inside at 1200 RPM. That's how they guarantee the result. Why double the rpm?? You remind me of a guy, "Take 1 pill twice a day for a week. Why bother, I'll just take 14 pills at once and get over it." Anyway, thanks for the upload.

[@CertifiedShadetree]

Instructions? Self-professed shade trees don't read instructions!!🤣🤣

[@falsem1nd]

@@CertifiedShadetree shaking my head, sir, shaking my head

[@CertifiedShadetree]

Seriously though, I appreciate the feedback!

[@thecarguide4303]

The product is heat activated in the rays rpm creates a splashing affect that does a great job decarbonizing and mildly cleaning the system. The stuff works amazing and can’t tell you how many vehicles I fixed oil consumption issues with doing the service.

[@pxxxbxxx253]

Why not just follow BG EPR's directions and just put it into the dirty oil, run the engine, and change the oil like normal after?

[@CertifiedShadetree]

I blame KZbin (and the BobIsTheOilGuy forums)!! I've been led to believe using fresh oil with the chemical and a rinse phase afterward is the way to go. Will I do future treatments like the instructions suggest? Probably 🤷‍♂️..

[@pxxxbxxx253]

@@CertifiedShadetree It just seems so much more expensive to essentially do 3 oil changes. And I'm not sure I'd want any of the "cheap stuff" oil to remain mixed with the "good stuff" oil used in the end. Though of course we never have a completely clean oil.

[@CertifiedShadetree]

I mean with only 20 minutes on the oil, the cheap side of the "cheap" oil doesn't have a chance to rear its ugly head, so I'm fine with a miniscule amount of it mixed in with the "good" oil. Think I'd rather have that than residual cleaning chemical mixed in with my "good" oil, TBH. More expensive? For sure, but given how temperamental these GM 3.6's are you'd have to do 40 of these rinse phases to equal the cost of a new engine. For an extra $50 once a year - I'm certainly not sweating that if it could potentially save me from an engine replacement!! I say potentially because this stuff could just end up being snake oil anyway..

[@jameskarl8908]

Are you still using that Valvoline oil? Or what are you using now? I’m using royal purple but it’s really overpriced.

[@CertifiedShadetree]

Yes! It's about $10 cheaper than AutoZone if you buy a 5-quart jug from Amazon. The single quart bottles are 2 bucks cheaper @ Amazon, but take up to 2 weeks to arrive, so I just buy my single quart from AutoZone if I'm in a hurry..

[@jamesyarbrough4777]

man, your running premium synthetic thats capable of 15k mile oil change intervals for 5k. that engine is gonna stay clean as a whistle without flushes.

[@CertifiedShadetree]

Maybe, maybe not. The 3.6 never fails to disappoint if you're not impeccable with the maintenance.

[@deere3321]

I change my own oil every 3000 in my Colorado 3.6. I'm 70 years old and have never had any major engine problems

[@budlanctot3060]

I'm surprised the original 4500 mi oil change was that dirty looking. I don't blame you for wanting to give it the BG flush. My 5.7 Hemi oil looks a lot cleaner at 5k OCI, and it's got nearly 150k on it. Is your DI the difference? Good job on the extra effort on maintenance. It would have been a better video if you could have shown some sludge build up with a bore scope, so we could see before & after, but we got the idea anyway. Thx.

[@mr.michigan9289]

@@deere3321 I believe in good maintenance but there should always be a balance, if everyone in the USA or even the world changed oil at 3,000 miles what a waste of resources, that's a waste for just you alone!

[@deere3321]

Probably a little kerosene right before you changed the oil would do the same thing. Personally I would just change the oil more often and get the same results over time.

[@CertifiedShadetree]

Certainly. Trans fluid or diesel fuel could be used as well..

[@falsem1nd]

you will need to do like 50+ regular oil changes to flush out the same amount BG does with one can of EPR. Sludge is VERY hard to get rid of with just oil, once it builds up

[@brendan747]

it will not do the same thing. it has been proven by fordbossme, if you smell the BG EPR you’ll see that it isn’t like the motor flushes sold at auto parts stores.

[@seananderson127]

All that money to clean your engine and you have the worst air filter possible? Those K&N filters allow massive amounts of large particles to pass into your engine.

[@CertifiedShadetree]

But has anyone proven that they actually harm an engine? And if so, where can I join in on the class-action lawsuit? The only major concern anyone's ever proven to have was killing MAF sensors when the filter is over oiled. I'll completely eat my words if my engine gets destroyed from running a K&N, but I'm not concerned in the slightest.

[@brendan747]

@@CertifiedShadetreeit’s proven by UOA (used oil analysis reports) the silicon levels (sand, dirt etc) go way up with those oiled air filters. use paper filters, change every 2 changes and your vehicles will thank you. 7.3 power strokes would destroy a specific cylinder(7 or 8 i can’t remember which one off the top of my head) if an oiled air filter was used as all the silt and debris let though would funnel into those cylinder.

[@johnmilner7603]

Always change your oil when it’s HOT.

[@drb2k580]

This is correct. K&N filters increase airflow while sacrificing filtration. Silica levels in oil have been shown to be higher in cars with these types of filters. But if you think 2-3hp is worth a shorter engine life, go ahead.

[@Cj1985_GT]

I wouldnt run Valvoline in my weed eater. I use Castrol GTX High Mileage. Long story short, i overheated a 2.5 V6 Sebring that had LOUD LOUD LOUD Lifters. I overheated it trying to climb the mud hill to my ex mother in laws house which was rutted wet clay on a steep incline. I overheated this engine flr like 10 minutes and didnt realize it. The temp hand was BURIED all the way High. I only noticed it was overheated because it lost so much power that it felt like it only had 75 hp. Barely would spin tires in wet clay. I drove it to my ex sister in laws house and popped the radiator cap and it hit the hood so hard that it dented my hood. And it wouldnt crank after i shut it off. I just KNEW i locked this engine up. Let it sit for 4 hours and added coolant, and checked oil level. Hit the key and the car started RIGHT UP and had NO MORE LIFTER NOISE. And it felt like it gained 25 lb. ft. of torque over factory. And i couldnt believe it survived what i put it through. And i give FULL CREDIT to Castrol GTX HM that i have ran in EVERY ENGINE ive owned since. And right now my 06 Xterra has 330,000 miles and going strong, and my 06 Pathfinder has 240,000 and going strong. Ill never spend a dime on Valvoline after seeing the Bearing Stress Test and how Valvoline failed MISERABLY under force.

[@CertifiedShadetree]

I've used GTX extensively in many vehicles, but I won't put it in a GM High-Feature engine. These engines EAT oil and Valvoline is the only oil that I've used that stays up to the full mark for an entire OCI. And with these engines, ignoring the oil level or neglecting maintenance leads to massive amounts of sludge which in turn leads to VVT solenoid failure, cam phaser failure, and timing chain stretch.

[@brendan747]

valvoline is proven to be some of the best oil on the market that is for sale in stores. have ran it in my 02 silverado from when i got it at 60k miles to now at 236k. large cam and 10” of lift on 14 wides and 35x15.5 tires. just now changed to pennzoil ultra platinum at the last oil change after performing a BG EPR flush. the penzoil is only marginally better than the valvoline but it’s worth the small bump in cost to me.

[@Cj1985_GT]

Putting Oil on your filter gasket is a BAD IDEA. Oil destroys the integrity of Rubber. Now given, you wont be leaving that filter on there for 5 years or anything, but it doesnt change the fact that Oil and Rubber dont get along. I like my Filter Gasket and Housing to be oil free when i install my filters.

[@CertifiedShadetree]

VASELINE is what you want to avoid. That'll tear that shit up. Motor oil, though? Well I guess if you're scared of it you could always use a dab of a silicone-based lube like Syl-Glide.

[@rtaggs8178]

That is contrary to what oil filter companies instruct you to do.

[@Cj1985_GT]

@@rtaggs8178 If i was selling lighters, i would instruct people to hold the fluid button down 30 seconds before each light. Or if i was selling cell phones, i would instruct buyers to put their cell phones in an oven at 350° for 15 minutes if exposed to moisture. See where im going with this?

[@johnmilner7603]

You definitely have no clue what your talking about. The heat alone without oil on the filter gasket will weld itself onto the mounting surface. If it hasn’t yet in your case then you better buy a lottery ticket.😮

[@Cj1985_GT]

@@johnmilner7603 Dude get real. No it doesn't. We're not talking about a metal oil filter gasket being welded to a metal housing due to °3000 degree temperatures. I've changed my damn oil for 22 years without putting oil on the gasket and it comes off with the filter every time. That is the silliest thing I've ever heard.