BG Dynamic Platinum Engine Restoration vs. Oil Consumption | Oil Burning🔥Experiments | Episode 29

Will BG Dynamic Platinum Engine Restoration Service stop the oil burning?
Entire oil burning playlist: • Oil Consumption Experi...
BG Dynamic Platinum Engine Restoration Kit: www.amazon.com...
Blue Driver obd II scanner: www.amazon.com...
catch can: www.amazon.com...
tool kit: www.lowes.com/...
Makita ratchet: www.amazon.com...
#1zz #oilburner #corollalovers #catchcan
Music:
Shadowing by Corbyn Kites
Eternal Garden by Dan Henig
Sunshine Samba by Chris Haugen
Disclaimer:
If you choose to imitate, duplicate or copy anything you may have observed in these videos, you do so at your own risk. The creator of this content does not take any responsibility for any action taken as a result of the information or advice on this KZbin channel (or other platforms) and shall not have any liability in respect of any injury or damage that may result.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Entire oil burning playlist: kzbin.info/aero/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj

[@robbieturnbull4253]

I think your motor is beyond help and just needs to be rebuilt you've already blew all kinds of money on products and they all failed only thing you didn't and won't try is engine restore I don't understand why your trying everything else if restore can't help it then it just needs to be rebuilt its beyond the help of any kind of oil treatment can offer or do

[@josemedeiros007]

@@robbieturnbull4253 The B12 Chemtool and Seafoam is not expensive, so they were worth a try, but I agree with you that his engine probably needs to be bored .30 over and new pistons and rings installed, I myself have used Total Seal gap less rings in my Ford 302 motor and my 2110 CC stroked 1968 VW beetle engine I built.

[@amdstrollo3074]

@@robbieturnbull4253 it's an experiment to see if any of these products will make a difference or reduce the burning, some people can't afford this and in some engines this has actually been very successful

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

I believe engine restore will only mask the problem@@robbieturnbull4253

[@donh8223]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY DAVE (caps for emphasis, not screaming ), I can't believe you haven't installed a fumoto valve on this car yet, makes draining the oil soooo easy compared to removing and replacing the bolt every time. Quality product, I've had mine for more thatn 10 years, zero issues.

[@cap2c484]

Really outstanding series. No question, you’ve diligently given all of the chemical options a fair shot. Thanks for doing this!

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thank you :-)

[@clintmulford2443]

3 years is along time Dave. I sat and binged watched your oil burning Corolla series. I enjoy it very much. And I'm looking for results as my car is burning oil also. Looking forward to the next video. Keep up the good work!! 🤘

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks Clint! Much appreciated :-)

[@aloisdecroon6096]

Honestly the result is cylinder head job, replace worn valves, valve seats and stem seals and off course the piston rings, most important the oil rings. Loved the series Dave was a pleasure to watch and see the trips in between, makes me want to go back to the states

[@jeffreygoss8109]

Guess I got lucky. I got the answer first time.

[@Nick-GR]

How do you know that the cylinders are still. within specs? You dont just replace piston rings, you change bearings as well and you check the block and the shape of cylinders. It might need liners also. Thats not a cylinder head job, it is engine rebuild. You dont have a clue.@@aloisdecroon6096

[@altopstwo3934]

I always use marvel mystery oil in oil and fuel to keep rings lose and free

[@hansevensen8426]

A co-worker of mine got one of these for free a year and a half ago for doing work for one of his customers. His was at the point where it would burn A quart of oil every 300 mi. He had tried chemical repairs for 3 years, but it seemed like every year it would have to come in for another dose. He pulled the motor and we rebuilt the engine in about 10 hours over the course of a week. Of the 16 oil return holes, 14. Were plugged when we initially pulled the pistons, 11 were still plugged after 2 hours in the parts washer, and four of them were so stuffed full of hard carbon, that we ended up having to drill them out. The fix, as noted in the forums, is to either drill the oil return holes to the next size up, or by adding two additional return holes in between both existing oil return holes on both sides. We ended up doing both. The two competing theories are that by oversizing the return holes, they will transfer less heat into the oil as it gets scraped back down into the pan, reducing the chance that it can coke up and plug the holes again. And that the additional oil holes were a factory fix in the updated Pistons for the 1zz/2zz engines. Either way, the return holes were gross and it honestly took more time than it ever. Should have to get those pistons clean, although there was no reason to replace them. The Molly coating on the piston skirt did wear but it hadn't worn away completely. We ended up rebuilding the motor in the most sloppy mechanic way possible. Everything was cleaned and reused. The bores were honed out, and although the deck and head were checked for trueness and were in spec, we never sent them out for machining. It got the cheapest rebuild kit on RockAuto, and got fresh bearings and a timing set and water pump. Since then he is driven it about 10,000 mi. The only times he's added oil, have been to fill it up after an oil change. Total consumption between oil changes was 2/10 of a quart, and some of that could be the motor breaking in again. (He did end up having an external coolant leak from the head gasket, but I blame that on the cheap head gasket more than anything else. Doing it again. That's the only thing either of us would change)

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Good info. Love this comment!

[@CedroCron]

I'd do the valve seals first. Easier because it's the top-end. You definitely have oil coming down the stems from the look of it. You can keep the valves at the top by pressurizing the cylinders with a leak-down tester using air pressure to hold the valves in place while you change the seals.

[@claypaul2012]

That's already been done like three times

[@blongsta5]

Been done

[@john0270]

its the rings, the oil is litterly getting blown into the intake, and has uneven compression. he should remove the valves and atleast lap the seats and get all the build up off. the rings, and the ring groves will both be worn.

[@spartanpatriot3163]

This has nothing to do with valves, this is from excessive crankcase pressure

[@CedroCron]

@@spartanpatriot3163 Whatever it's over 20 year old no magic in a can is going to fix a mechanical problem whatever it is

[@2226cc]

Looks like the oil stayed a lot cleaner for longer. As far as I can tell BG is good for removing all that old oil varnish. You can actually kind of see this in the shots of the oil filter housings. So from what I have seen from others, yes, BG will clean up everything and free up sticky rings and fix oil consumption issues by restoring ring tension provided there is no mechanical wear. In this case, though, I think this into the mechanical issue realm that no chemical is going to correct.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Looks like a lot of people agree with you! Thanks for the comment!

[@1TIMEF1l]

I work for BG and am currently doing this service as we speak!

[@jordanjjn]

@@1TIMEF1lmannnn how come it’s so difficult to get this stuff in the UK !!!!??

[@Fred-F4]

This series will be super helpful for anyone dealing with this oil burning issue. Thanks a lot for creating it!

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thank YOU for watching!!

[@michaelcochran7392]

I tried the Chemtool B12 trick and it worked. 2011 Hyundai Sonata, 188,000 miles, was burning a quart every 500 miles. Now, it has been 3000 miles since that treatment, and the oil dipstick is still reading 3/4. I was truly amazed. Thanks for the idea Dave!!!

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for another sucess story Michael!

[@maxe.1204]

@michaelcochran7392 Did you apply to crankcase and fuel or just fuel?

[@colebarnes3938]

You'll have to watch the original video with B12​ to see how its done@maxe.1204

[@JonnyAbs-0]

Did you let the berrymans soak cold or warm

[@citizens8773]

​@@colebarnes3938Any idea?

[@antwainesalters5773]

I have an old Honda crv that had the exact issues as your Corolla to include the 420 check engine light. Car ran great, just a lot of oil consumption. I tried all the same snake oil treatments and fixes as you and I ended up spending a weekend rebuilding the engine 2 weeks ago in my driveway. After pulling the pistons, the compression rings were all fine, the ring lands on all the oil rings were just packed with carbon to the point i had to let the pistons soak in chem-dip for an hour to be able to remove the oil rings but I was able to do the whole rebuild for $350, no more oil burning and the p420 check engine light also went away. Good luck, hopefully whatever u have planned next saves you a rebuild.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

That's awesome, Antwain! and if it comes to that (which I think it will) I hope mine goes as easy :-)

[@GarenP]

What do you think caused it?

[@tollav]

That paper cup is genius!

[@robertoruiz7069]

Hi David,i can tell you from my experience with my 94 Honda civic with 530,000 miles original motor.i bought it new.You NEED to remove the pistons and rings,buy a new set of stocks rings, brand won't matter,hone a crosshatch pattern with a flex hone in the CLYS.and NUMBER 1 use a .093 dia drill BY HAND in a pin vise and ream out the OIL DRAIN BACK HOLES.My car used to burn 1 qt every 100 miles and that was 4 yrs and 40,000 miles ago.now it USES 1/4 CUP every 3,000 miles.my pistons have 6 drain-back holes every single one was clogged solid making it an oil pump,and the other benefit it passes smog with 1/10 of ALLOWED gases again.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thnaks for the advice Roberto!

[@namenotshown9277]

I think your advice is the only way to go, unless some genius works out a way to clean the holes while the pistons are still in the engine........I believe someone will find a way@@FamilyFriendlyDIY

[@JonnyAbs-0]

Did you ever try a Berryman piston soak from above?

[@markmills344]

​@@JonnyAbs-0 He did with limited success. He made a video about it too.

[@philjerome9795]

I've had moderate success using Chemtrol B-12 on a 2015 Kia Forte that was burning a quart of oil every 300 miles. I did an overnight soak down in each cylinder for 24 hours. I then added more B-12 to one cylinder at a time. I used a compression tester adapter after adding more B-12, as each cylinder had drained down. Then after adding more Chemtrol, I brought each piston up by baring the crank over with a breaker bar, until the valves closed, using compressed air to feel the closed valves. This forced the B-12 down past the rings. After doing all four cylinders, I then spun the engine to remove any additional B-12 and drained the oil, replacing it with new oil. I got the idea to use compressed air in the cylinders after reading the Hyundai Kia TSB on oil consumption. The engine now consumes about a quart of oil every 1,000 miles, still not great, but a lot better.

[@buckaroobonsi555]

Called it. Knew that the BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner wouldnot do anything of note. I hoped it would but knew it would not. Now if the engine had been full of sludge the BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner would have been the perfect fit. The engine is too far gone all of the other cleaners that have come before did all that could be done via insitu cleaning. I have said this since before you replaced your valve stem seals that you needed to check those valve guides as well!

[@Corbots80]

Yea it works wonderfully. But with already applying all the cleaning agents that have already been tried. There is not much left for BG Dynamic to clean out.

[@robertnagy2456]

This is the best oil change channel on youtube ;)

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

😂

[@Funkydood]

"DO PREMIUM QUALITY WORK!" Gotta respect you for your tenacity! BTW, the color of the oil doesn't mean much; the time it's been in the engine does. Just check out Royal Purple motor oil, and see how dark it is unused. I own 2012 KIA Sorento; it has 102,500+ miles on it. It was moderately burning oil, so I poured 3 bottles of Berryman's B-12 Chemtool AND IT TOTALLY STOPPED BURNING OIL!!!

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

How long did you run it with the B12?

[@blueheavensince62]

I have a 2016 rio. Where did you pour it? Did you also do a soak?

[@nidaldajani728]

I think your videos are better described as a "scientific approach 101 for resolving engine oil consumption". It progressively covers all possible fictitious solutions then finally arrives at the proper solution. Your "Documentary" series has been very educational and equally entertaining.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for the kind comment!

[@iko3]

I haven't seen it yet but I am so excited. It feels like a series finally to a great show lol!

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

:-)

[@DeepRacer-zr4yp]

Season Finale indeed 😂

[@kevinklassen8199]

Yes, love this series. And I love your gospel message. I hope people hear and come to accept Jesus

[@benjamincresswell3713]

Dave, my Dad used to say "we have gathered enough information to prescribe a prognosis without getting out of the vehicle, so lets eliminate the items that can't be the problem and list the ones that we have knowledge of that might be." So It seems to me that you have already proven your oil rings are at fault. With all the oil additives you've used I don't see how there could be any appreciative amount of carbon clogging the return route thru the piston. Berryman's B12 really reduced your consumption. I'd say it had the magic ingredient in it. None of the rest of them have helped reduce pumping and may have made it slightly worse *(I'd suspect due to the viscosity) So, it seems like the only alternative to actually pulling the pistons to do a visual would be to go back to Berryman's B12 Chemtool and go nuclear with it. It's not my car, so don't do what I'd do, but if it was mine, I'd fill it up with B12 and nothing else. Then assign the vehicle to extremely light duty so it can get some honest heat cycles on it with very light loads, loads of no more than a 25 mph flat ground equivalent and keep rpm below 2,000 but above 1,500. I don't know how much lubrication quality B12 can afford pistons, rings, bearings and valve train, so I'd want to stay way beneath about 1/100 of the engines rated output. Only want to run the B12 thru it hot and cold several times for a period each time then try one last time with factory recommended engine oil. You've been all over this thing, so that is what I would've told my Dad. ben/ michigan

[@stephenrodrigues8072]

Been waiting months for this…well done great video once again Dave Sir

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks Stephen!!

[@RossWilson]

I’m glad you tried the BG kit, I can say it worked for me on an engine with 40k miles on it with some smoke/sludge issues after trying every other flush/chemical, fuel treatment and piston soak. I went from a quart every 4-500 miles to half a quart in 3500 miles and no more smoke. Excited to continue following your journey and the community you’ve created.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks! And glad to hear it worked for you Ross!

[@rfahlsing]

What engine with 40,000 miles burns a quart of oil every 500 miles?

[@RossWilson]

@@rfahlsing VQ35DD and VQ35DE from Nissan/Infiniti. Maintenance schedule says 5000/7500 miles but that fouls them up pretty bad. Lots of reports of “pathfinder or qx60 smoking on startup” on the internet for engines as low as 25-30k miles and then Nissan denying claims and recommending a new engine or rebuild for 15k

[@jimbo5728]

The editing on your videos is perfect! Just the right amount of detail without too much. The split screen placing the ramps... 👍😁

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Much appreciated jimbo!

[@northwoodsguy1538]

Dave try some of this oil ,Valvoline Restore & Protect is the first and only motor oil that prevents future deposit formation and restores pistons to factory clean by removing up to 100% of engine-killing deposits.

[@ImJustKindaHere]

Internally, the engine is clean now after this treatment. I do agree with you though in that Valvoline Restore & Protect would have done the best job compared to everything he's tried up until this video. I recently began using it about 4 months ago on my g/f's RAV4 which had some small sludge deposits visible from the oil fill cap opening. Cleaned it all out in just 1 oil interval. We are sticking to using it on her RAV4 moving forward. This oil is simply on another level. What he needs are new piston rings and the walls need to be machined all over again.

[@jamesplotkin4674]

Try Castrol GTX 20W-50, as it will not burn away as fast. If you're keeping this car, I'd recommend a full service on the head along with new pistons and bearings. If the bores are close to stock and still round, a simple hone and set of standard rings, gapped, of course.

[@JonnyAbs-0]

That might be way too thick

[@smellyshiet6314]

Dude ever heard of winters?

[@rocknrollermann]

These are gold , DIY Dave. pure gold.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thank you! 😊

[@northwoodsguy1538]

Great idea. Let's clean those oil holes. 👍

[@TheOverisel]

The introduction of water into the intake tract while the engine is at high idle will clean the piston tops and the combustion chambers but I don't think it will bust thru all that solidified compacted oil in the oil ring lands.

[@eDXTRe]

Can't Wait to see the piston rings when you take apart the engine to see if you can clean /fix it

[@RogerM88]

The solution to the oil consumption... install a oil separator catch can, draining the capture oil through the dipstick tube back to the crankcase. Try thicker oil as 10W40 or 10W50. Also make a test without the catalytic converter, to check potential back pressure influence.

[@scottiusnevious5143]

That rambling is something else. Therapy is a good start, magical thinking leads no where.

[@scottiusnevious5143]

There is no oil that reverses entropy. There is no magical treatment that reverses engine wear, metal that is no longer there. MOA is a good treatment but once its burning oil the valve seats and piston ring replacement is a good start. You could have gotten the jobs done with the money you blow on oil and treatments.

[@johdirt7843]

A new short block is the only thing that will work. The scoring on the cylinder wall is what is causing the oil usage.

[@dannygonxalez9011]

I always watch this series, they are so interesting and i usually like a faster paced video, but it’s perfect for killing time at work! haha. I love it and you have an awesome channel, thanks for the hours of entertainment and experiments!

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Your kind comment is much appreciated! :-)

[@zackarymcclain164]

Honestly this is a really cool series. I truly have enjoyed watching you show all these methods. One thing I will say though, is as a professional tech I didn’t believe any of them would create an appreciable change in the grand scheme. Just based on the Toyota engines I’ve seen consuming tons of oil, there is no substitute for mechanical repairs. If it was my personal vehicle I’d remove the engine and do a complete tear down and inspection. Replace all Seals and gaskets, probably put new pistons and rings in (if the cylinders were concentric and in spec) and call it a day. It’s your call to continue trying but I hope you eventually go all the way.

[@allentyree3301]

Hello Dave. There is one more step that i would like to see you do if the problem is truly the drain back holes in the piston clogged. The process is simple and should easily cure it if that is truly the problem. Fill the cylinders with carburetor boil like Berryman Chem Dip parts cleaner. Don't worry about rotating the engine or anything else. Just fill the cylinders and keep them topped off for the week and then drain the oil and refill with new oil. Dissolving stuff like that is exactly what carburetor boil is designed to do.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

🤔

[@495891]

I noticed the area where the oil filter mounts was significantly cleaner after the dynamic cleaner!

[@russell154]

Thank you for preventing me from buying that kit. I was skeptical now I know why. Enjoying this series very much.

[@donaldspeck9212]

I can't wait to see those new total seal piston rings go on with a 3 angle valve job with new valve seals

[@John-dp3ln]

I think major issue are valve stem seals. I’d do those first, reassemble and test. No valve job, just the seals.

[@ricebike]

Click on the playlist... Here's part 2 of the series where he covers valve stem seals kzbin.info/www/bejne/mnrbdZ1vZbp7pM0si=h-MCPZ8tsDNlxxkq

[@scotthewins5341]

During the b12 experiment and you scoped it, it really looked like the walls were super shiny. It could be that they had some residual oil or the cylinder walls are glazed over. Pull the pistons, re-hone it, and re-ring it. That's what I would do. And a valve job.

[@crunchygremlin]

Agreed except for a valve job. 1zz valve job needs skill. Rings and hone not so much

[@AlanMilford]

Some very nice video from Valvoline Restore and Protect oil to remove deposits including what looked like the oil ring drain holes. The deposit removal from the piston looked good, and a product to do what should be helpful to the oil consumption from a major oil company, Thoughts?

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

I hadn't heard of that, but just looked it up. Interesting🤔

[@laithali8004]

I love this series, you are what makes KZbin amazing. I think understanding engines at fundamental level is why these things are hard to fix. I know people think 1 liter of oil burned for 300 miles is too much. I actually think it’s not bad. 300 miles roughly equals 10 hours of operation. At 3,000 rpm that means the position has went up and down almost 2 million times!!! Which means an oil thickness of about 10 nanometers around the cylinder walls will cause 1 liter of oil consumption for every 300 miles. That’s why manufactures say 1 liter per 1000 miles is acceptable.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Much appreciated :-) and I love your glass-half-full attitude!

[@xynostasos9022]

One product that has help many people on newer 1.6 VVTI engines that have oil consumption issues is Xado Verylube Anticarbon. But to the point you are now, I doubt it would have helped. Most people have great success with it when using it right after the oil burning starts. And the issue there is low tension piston rings gumming up with carbon deposits, rather than only the oil drainback holes. In any case, if you end up removing the heads of the engine, I would like to see the state of the pistons rings.

[@thomaskutches2613]

Yet another great video Dave. Was really hoping to see a better result from that. You sure have tried about everything and the B12 did the best by far. UMMMMMM makes me wonder if just another dose of the B12 soak may free up those holes? Love it!

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thank you Thomas! I wonder the same thing .... but .....

[@felipedeleon3870]

Please Dave one more! 🫥

[@JohnDoe-id9hi]

I was advised to use B&G to clean the carbon buildup on my 2010 Nissan 4.0. It didn't burn oil prior to the B&G. However after the process my engine burned oil so much that I would have to check it every 50 miles. This lasted for about 400 miles when the bottom end started knocking at low rpm. I've never taken a vehicle to a mechanic except for this one time. $300 Snake Oil

[@1_of_4]

Forged pistons and connecting rods inbound!!! Awesome video and series.

[@Steve-l4n]

Hey Dave, I've enjoyed your oil burning experiments. You've done countless messy oil changes. I have a couple tips for you to lessen the mess of changing oil. First, after loosening the oil drain plug and just before you remove it, attach your long reach magnet to the oil plug and then spin it out with the magnet, no mess and you won't have to fish it out of the drain pan if you drop it like I saw in one of your videos. Second, before you spin off the oil filter, punch a hole in the bottom of the filter with a screw driver or punch then let it drain until it's empty, less mess. Cheers!

[@epicraptorman]

If you plan on redoing the rings I suggest having the Car Care Nut do the work. Be a cool collab vid

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

I'd love that, just don't know if he has time for a peon like me. :-/

[@unclejoe6811]

AMD won't touch this car he doesn't believe in boring out engines for oversized pistons he simply orders a short block and reseals the head

[@averageguy1261]

Holy smokes! I stumbled upon your content, you've been at this for a long time! Much props to you. You are invaluable with your information, moreover I've enjoyed your storytelling.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thank you so much for your kind comment!

[@dlm32067]

So good. I appreciate your patience! Looking forward to more. The videos are fun, entertaining, and informative. Lesson learned: Don't buy snake oil.

[@Boodieman72]

Glad you picked my choice of BG, it still won't fix mechanical issues.

[@MichaelCzajka]

You should do an oil analysis. It would tell you if there is fuel in the oil... which would tell you if the rings were allowing fuel to bypass the rings... which is a simple way of telling if they're stuck. Oil analysis would also tell you where wear is occurring... and that might also help identify where the problem is occurring. 🙂 P.S. Ethanol in the fuel oxidises and polymerises to forms a sludge that is really hard to remove (won't dissolve in normal solvents)... and may be the main reason why the rings get stuck.

[@norm-yk1xh]

howdy, been following your oil consumption episodes for about 2 years now. i thoroughly appreciated your easiness (and patience) throughout. i have a '97 sentra that went thru a qt of oil every 100 mi. after starting my own crankcase chemical clean-up (i've been essentially using sea foam & berryman's b12), it's now improved to a whopping 150 mi/qt. upon inspection at the beginning, all piston crowns were pooled up w/ oil. last time checked, 1 piston crown dried up. cyl leakdown is 5-12% and compression is 175-185%. (note: this engine's pistons have one compression ring: the rings' ends overlap, eliminating an end gap.) unfortunately, higher priority projects have pushed this one out, so it's been about a year since last working on it. when i start on it again, i'll eventually use the yamalube product. i noticed it thoroughly cleaned all 4 piston crowns - very impressive and, where the other chemicals didn't do nearly as well. there's definitely more details to give, but i'll finish by saying i hope to get back on it before the end of the year...and hope your 'mechanical cleaning' does the trick.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

That's great, and please do keep us posted Norm!

[@samuelparrish4800]

This has been a great series! Hope you haven't sacrificed your Corolla in the process. I have an '03 Honda Accord 2.4ltr. with 150k miles. Same exact issues, and the oil consumption was getting worse, every 5-600 miles. I knew my catalytic converter was getting bad so I thought I would try a new one to see if that might help. So my process was this: while I had no cat connected I did the spray type Sea Foam treatment into the intake, then I did your piston soak with Berryman's, again with the cat disconnected. Smoked like crazy and was obviously loud. Then I put the new cat on with new o2 sensors and changed the oil going from 5w-20 to 5w-30 (Castrol GTX syn blend). Got it to 1,100 miles before having to add a quart. It's at another 700 miles with just about a 1/4 down. So definite improvement thus far. So my question is, maybe your catalytic converter is somewhat clogged? I think these engines are vulnerable to back pressure and this could be part of your problem. I think the state you live in allows non-CARB compliant converters so this might be a worthwhile inexpensive experiment to try.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

We scoped the cat in a previous video, Samuel. I think it already has an aftermarket on it, and it sounds pretty free flowing.

[@TejasToolMan]

awesome series enjoyed all of it. Hope you do a rebuild video these are fairly easy and lots of parts still available

[@alphamegaman8847]

Great Job Dave, as per Usual!👍 The Saga Continues! Thanks for Your Hard work and continued Dedication in the quest to reduce the oil consumption of your car! Thanks also to your Family for their support of you in your quest! 🥰 We appreciate them too! Looking forward to the next phase and wishing you (and us) a successful resolution and Low cost Fix, to a Vexing problem! 😁 Happy New Year! Mike in San Diego. 🌞🎸🚀🖖

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks Mike! Happy New Year to you and yours! :-)

[@hondatrix]

Many moons ago I had a Toyota Corolla that had huge oil consumption issue and valves that looked like yours. It had just over 170,000km on it. I added 1L of diesel to 3L of engine oil and drove it in 3rd gear (stick shift) keeping rpm around 6000 for just over 200km. Drained the oil and it was dirtier than a 64 year old French woman working on the Amsterdam red light district. Checked the valves and 99% of the carbon was GONE. It still used a bit of oil, much less and even less after replacing the valve stem seals. You should try driving the crap out of it. Good luck

[@InvertOtaku-os9lj]

Can anyone tell me what "style" of house that is at 22:54 to 22:58 please? I love the way it looks, and would like to see others like it. Also, after watching the series up to this point, something I would like to say you, Dave: you don't seem to do many (if any at all) WOT "Italian Tune-Up" runs. Pushing the engine to max revs under acceleration may do better to unstick stick rings than just normal driving.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

The house style is called "modern" ... just google "modern house style." ... I would have had to separate the Italian tuneup from the other experiments-- and maybe I should have done an Italian tune up video, because if I did them while experimenting with a chemical, we wouldn't know if it was the chemical or the WOT driving that did the trick. Thanks for the comment!!!

[@petermolnar8667]

I would replace the valve stem seals before touching the pistons, just because there's much less work involved (although everyone says the issue is at the pistons, so I'd be probably wrong). Once the pistons are out, it may be beneficial to drill the oil drain holes slightly larger in case they are clogged, which is likely as it's the 1ZZ-FE. (What a series this has been!)

[@garybuffington6021]

If you go back 1 YEAR and watch his videos he already replaced the valve stem seals BEFORE trying all the chemical cleaners!

[@petermolnar8667]

@@garybuffington6021 thanks a lot, I guess I've forgotten. It was a long journey wasn't it

[@garybuffington6021]

@petermolnar8667 My bad too! I was late in the game myself to catch his valve stem seal replacement video. I saw it LONG after ALL the chemical cleaner attempts! It has been an interesting journey following all that he has tried!

[@thomaspendleton9819]

I would try some thicker oil.

[@danwyan]

I was wondering if you retried the B-12 Chemtool to see if the improvement was a fluke or if it comes back as good as the first test. I also thought, if you could apply pressure to the cylinders through the plug holes while soaking with the Chemtool, could it force the liquid into the oil return holes and push the gunk out? You shouldn't need a ton of pressure to push the liquid down the cylinder sides into the ring grooves. Might be able to use an air compressor blower tool with a long nozzle with a cork pushed down into the plug hole. Just a thought.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

I did a couple of B12 treatments. I do think it worked, not just from my results, but from a lot of anecdotal evidence from others who tried it before and after me. Seems like more people have has success from B12 than anything else we've tried. ... Pressurising is a good idea. The Seafoam site recomments just putting the plugs back in and turning the cylinders to let compression force the liquid through the rings.

[@NoDayz0ff]

I've been subscribed since the beginning with notifications on and I still check to see if a video was posted

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thank you for that!! It is very much appreciated!!

[@lynxstarautomotive208]

17:56 I think your biggest issue is leaking valve stem seals. Those cylinders look pretty decent for a vehicle of that mileage. I remember your first couple of videos, you seem to be on top of maintenance, so sticky rings probably not as likely. Valve stem seals however, are a rubber seal with a lifespan unfortunately. Might just be time. Only way to explain the oil in those ports. I was one of the ones that recommended you the BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner. As a professional mechanic, I have brought back a lot of cars from neglect, but mechanical and seal failure can only be fixed one way.

[@ricebike]

Yeah that expensive oil flush kit is for heavily sludge engines from lack of oil changes 😢 Glad everyone thumbs 👍 for all his previous videos to make it possible for him to try these chemicals But alas, the real fix is to upgrade the rings 😢 Or live with it and top up the oil level religiously 😅 Neat trick with a disposable cup for oil filters in that orientation 3:35 Still not using a crush washer for the oil drain plug?😮 4:30

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

:-) Thanks for the support!! .... If the drain plug don't leak ... don't change it ;-)

[@ricebike]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY hehe I know that the drain plug is nice and flat to the steel oil pan mating surfaces 😂 I recently got a 100 pack of aluminum oil drain plug crush washers from eBay for $10 shipped to maintain my relatives and my fleet of a dozen vehicles 14mm size washers and I'll be glad to mail you 6 since they're reusable a few times (even though owners and service manuals say to change them out)

[@Fastfixups]

Excellent videos, I look forward to one day seeing what state the oil control rings are in 😀

[@cobbleup]

I’ve learned to do the smoky stuff after dark.

[@dr.john-markcain4946]

Been an awesome series to follow… thank you

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for watching!

[@jpop2499]

I really enjoy this series. Have you given any thought to a water injection system? The water would need to be injected downstream of the throttle body / any electronics. It tends to steam clean the chambers and pistons.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thought about it, but I think that ship has sailed :-)

[@ImJustKindaHere]

Hello there Dav. I came across your channel today and have been binging through them. I appreciate your effort and persistence throughout the series. It's been about 5 months now since this video aired. I hope youve been able to get it all fixed by now. I look forward to checking out all your other videos of various everyday subjects/challenges we all have at one point. If I may, would like to drop my own 2 cents at least if it even means anything at this point... The majority of the products you experimented with were created with the goal in mind of being cleaning properties. Now, whether they even do that is debatable 😅, but they certainly will not help with restoring compression back into the cylinders. Im a bit surprised that you did not even attempt the product called Engine Restorer (comes in a silver can cost about $8 at Walmart). This product was infact designed to try to restore compression back to the cylinders by filling in scars and minor voids between the rings and the cylinder walls. I do swear by this product in producing results that are nothing short of amazing. The single worst case that i used it on was one time when I purchased a 1986 Nissan Sentra in amazing condition in and out, but with all 4 pistons needing new rings. It smoked pretty bad and couldn't keep an idle without holding the throttle a bit, but I really just wanted the car for everything else with the intent to rebuild the engine anyways. Here's the really bad part: It was located in Waco TX and I needed to bring it back home to Dallas TX (100 miles - 1.5 hr drive) and i did not want to pay an additional $400 to transport it. I did not own a truck at the time to just rent out a dolly or a trailer. So I poured in a bottle of Engine Restorer, filled the oil to the full mark, but then I added an additional extra quart of oil as I expected that it would just start blowing it by anyways and I wanted to reduce frequent stops, just try to force the trip in only 1 gas stop. Only about 15 minutes in to the trip the engine began to run smoother and my friend (who was driving behind me) told me over the phone that he really noticed that the smoking had dramatically decreased. I even turned on the AC in the car during the trip without a problem. When we arrived at my house, I checked the oil, it has only consumed about half a quart. Again, all 4 cylinders were done. It couldn't hold an idle on its own without throttle assistance, but when reaching home it had a very rough idle but at least stayed on without help. This product is the real deal. It would have absolutely been worth trying esp for the the few bucks it cost. Its intended to be added at every oil change, but it significantly reduces or eliminates the need for adding more oil in between intervals. I also used it on my now sold 2013 Genesis Coupe 2.0 Turbo with only 60K miles and no issues, and even on a well running car the Engine Restorer products did noticably improve the power output and response. Anyways, too late now. Just seemed strange that you didn't give this product a try from the start as it was designed specifically for the purpose of restoring compression back to the cylinders. Sorry about the long message, really got carried away. Regardless, keep up the great videos, I'll be looking out for you.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Hey, don't apologize for the long comment! That's great! The only reason I'm not using it is because I don't believe my engine and rings are worn, I think I have stuck rings and plugged drain-back holes, and once you use Restore, there's no going back -- it changes your cylinder walls. ... I'm actually working on a video using a Valvoline product. So we'll see where we go after that. :-)

[@ImJustKindaHere]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Oh, yeah that makes sense. If you're talking about Valvoline Restore and Protect Motor Oil... this motor oil might be product of the year for me. It will most likely work if it's blockage and stuck rings. You got this Dave.

[@gemeinschaftsgeful]

Next time pull out pistons and drill out oil ring holes a little bigger.

[@RobertWierzbowski]

One of my favorite series on youtube. I might watch it all even if I didn't have a 2AZ-FE

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for the kind comment. Much appreciated!

[@tkorte101]

Thumbs up as soon as I saw the oil bung fumble. I can relate!

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

It gets me almost every time. 🫤

[@eppenga]

Nice video again! Watched the whole series, always looking forward for the next. Funny to see you have the same IKEA overthere as we have in The Netherlands :)

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks again!! :-)

[@wazza33racer]

Great series of videos, thanks for sharing your findings ))

[@seatee4770]

I have heard some positive things about the new Valvoline Restore and Protect oil. I'm going to put it in my Scion Xb to see how it goes.

[@hernandomunoz3445]

Recommendation: I used on a totally worn VW Beetle engine an oil additive named NULON and for worn engines use the GREEN can, 1 is enough. For decent engines use the BLUE, and new engines use the GOLD. It really covers the cylinders with a thick layer of PTFE. My VW behaved like knew and no more oil burning for a long time. The additive was available imported from Europe (Belgium).

[@Retrodriven]

Im looking forward to the next steps! Keep up the good work! 🤗

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thank you!! 😊

[@somerandomguy3868]

I'm very interested in seeing this series play out, I don't know what I'll do when you're finished and have stopped the oil consumption or at least have it well under control, something less than a quart between regular changes

[@nghermit4922]

Always fun to see updates to the saga, will also be interested to see if consumption improves over time after BG, saw a few videos stating that, but I wouldn’t hold my breath. I can’t recall if you ever sprayed brake clean into the cylinders, not sure if safe, may eat the painted oil pan. Interesting thought on entropy by the way.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Never tried the brake cleaner, but that's another great suggestion. Thanks for the kind comment!

[@andreasbayer]

Wow. How many gallons of oil did this engine go through in the past 3 years? Did it in the beginning run out of oil before it ran out of fuel?

[@teddy_awdB19]

Whats codes were the check engine throwing? Jw

[@jamesyarbrough4777]

been looling forward to this video for a long time. thanks dave

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for always watching, James!

[@THEDRAGONBOOSTER8]

Bring it on .Can't wait until the next one..

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

😊Thanks

[@transhardware2699]

Hey Dave, please try testing engine restore. I have had great success with it.

[@rockycadieux4642]

I had a Prizim that had a 3 speed auto, same color. Bought used burned a quart every 800 miles. It was fun , wouldn’t go through snow drifts, it would go over them like a sled 🥳

[@RobertWierzbowski]

Just went through this procedure on my 2009 Pontiac Vibe with a 2AZ-FE toyota engine, currently burning from top to bottom dot in 425 miles. After the 24 hour procedure, I drained the pan 80-90% and added some sacrificial cheap oil before running high RPMs on the highway for 20-30 minutes. Then another drain and added high quality Motul oil. Not sure if it's affected my oil burning yet, but the car definitely feels different. Very quiet, smoother idle, and a bit more low-end pep. The car was poorly maintained before I got it, so I'm hoping the improvements are significant. I'll comment back in after I burn to the bottom marker on the oil again.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for the comment, and yes, please do let us know how it goes!

[@thatsonebadhatharry8610]

Happy New Year to you and your family. How are you going to physically clean the oil drainback holes without taking the pistons out of the engine? Unless you take the head off and push them up just far enough to expose the oil ring lands. And just like others have mentioned the valve seals look like they need replacing as well. Sounds like a good time to take the head off and clean the head and valve seats and the valves themselves to me. I really enjoy watching try everything known to man to stop the oil consumption. Have a great day Dave and God bless brother.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

I want to see if we can get to the drain-back holes through the oil pan. ... Maybe not possible, but I want to at least try.

[@thatsonebadhatharry8610]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I think once you drop the pan you will see why you can't do it from there. If you could there would have already been a video made about the procedure. I believe you will find that crankshaft will be in the way to get to the pistons. Can't wait for the video though.🙂

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Yeah, it might be a video of me finding out it's impossible :-)@@thatsonebadhatharry8610

[@garybuffington6021]

IF you go back 1 YEAR and watch his videos he already replaced the valve stem seals BEFORE trying all the chemical cleaners!

[@thatsonebadhatharry8610]

Well with all the oil getting onto the intake valves either his valve seals have gone bad again (which would mean his valve guides are bad) or there is way to much pressure in the crankcase (which I don't think he has a problem there), the oil catch can should prove that. Anywho, he'll get it figured out.

[@benschubert9750]

pls rebuild the motor

[@fjns73nnfd99s2]

Huge thank you for all the time and effort you put into this series! In the end, from a chemical standpoint, what would you say was the most effective cleaner used that us viewers could try out at home?

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for watching! I think Berryman's B12 was the most effective.

[@kahxb3kahxb375]

Love the frugality of keeping this old Yota on the road, but it may be time for the scrap yard.

[@whiskey3930]

Bravo. Looking forward to the future series. Thoroughly enjoyable and informative.

[@nordicpride9708]

BG is the best engine cleaning product you can buy. I’ve used it in countless applications with great results! I use EPR. This engine is clapped out. Time to ship it down the road motors. No cleaner will fix it, but good experiment nevertheless!

[@CougarZeke]

Great video series! Thanks for doing it! So do you feel the Berryman's did the best job helping reduce the oil consumption?

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks! If you go by the experiements, it had the most effect.

[@Sludge73]

Great series. Thanks for all your hard work.

[@jonrichardson-ih8vq]

enjoyed your videos, watched this series to this end 1, looking at last scope of valves/pistons, wow, looks to need physical removal and cleaning of valves and new rings, but I am just a weekend mechanic at best, so, looking forward to your end result, thanks for the vids.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for watching Jon!

[@ssolorio562]

Dont foget to add EPR to the last oil change. Maybe check compression on the pistons now that the bg cleaner has been done, add the EPR, then in 1k miles check compression again?

[@jeffie8696]

Any thought to checking the valve stem to guide clearances when it goes down for rings eventually?

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Will probably at least do a wiggle test, but might take it to my head shop and have them refurb it.

[@boots7859]

As someone mentioned in an earlier video, you can access the pistons without pulling the engine. Apparently you pull the head, and drop the pan. Unbolt the piston rods from below and top, and simply push them from the pan out the top of the head. Check replace rings as necessary, and re-drill the piston oil passages as per Toyotas later revision. With the compression tests you've done, the pistons seems fine. Not sure why you haven't done a simple leak-down test. Don't think the bores are ovaled per comp. test results, so looks like a simple weekend project.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks, and I did a leak-down test a ways back :-)

[@TheMadman457]

Seeing the condition of those exhaust valves. I'd be very interested in seeing a way to clean all that build up off of them. Your videos are great and insightful. You make sure and kept the information relevant to all vehicles rather than just this corrolla. I'd love to try some of these things on my engine in the future

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for the kind comment!

[@tomfaires1700]

If you haven’t pulled it apart yet, you might try the Valvoline restore oil. Cumulatively you won’t get back to new. It’s been run too long. It does show how good those cars are. It is a great series.

[@gsxellence]

Nice, didn't realize you were in SC; I'm in Fayetteville, NC ( I travel in your area a lot for work and my partner lives in Spartanburg) . Have you ever considered doing a meet and greet for your viewers near by maybe at Buc-ee's in Florence, SC? James

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks :-) not sure I'm ready for a meet and greet 😨 ... I'm a total introvert (beleive it or not). ... We'll see. Buc-ee's would be an awesome spot though!!

[@gsxellence]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I totally understand ( yes it would be a great spot!!) I had to replace the motor in my KIA for this same issue which developed a bad valve train ticking. Now, my project Mazda 6 has oil consumption, I believe due to lack on maintenance and dreaded pre-cat failure at bank 1. Wish me luck on trying to slow down oil consumption of this 3.0 duratec ( known leakers) . Can't wait to see the next vid :)

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

@@gsxellence all the best to you!