Bicycle Bearings and what to buy by an Engineer

[@philipk4475]

These level-headed vids of yours are brilliant

[@roebbiej]

You're calling this autistic 5 year old wanker level-headed?

[@norlan45]

Another cracking clear video, great no nonsense explanations. I am needing to replace bearings at the moment and have found your videos to be extremely helpful. Thanks.

[@kaustav314]

I am an engineer and i am planning to buy my first proper bicycle; and i landed on your channel. Cheers. Probably my buying research is getting too deep. And yeah you named all my favorite bearing in one video.

[@54als]

Have you ever heard about the SKF Energy Efficient bearings? i'm part of a team that build supermileage vehicles, and we run some tests on various bearings, and the SKF's bearings did an amazing job.

[@KyriaxWitch]

I use exactly this on all my bikes, and he have excelent peformance and cheap price

[@nickk1658]

How does this have less than 28k views after 3.5 years? LOL. Crazy. Great video with great info. Thank you, master!

[@82vitt]

SKF now have an Android/iOS app to be used to verify the authenticity of bearings with the SKF logo.

[@IronHorsey3]

Thanks Hambini; I got FAG open bearings for my Mavic Kyserium SL front wheel. Looking forward to a spin.

[@rcarlmoy5795]

This video is really informative, as are all your others. Thanks alot for making them. I can't find a video of yours that talks about counterfeit bearings and how to identify them. You seem to have a lot information about that, and I would be interested in learning from you. Keep up the good work.

[@bricknall345]

Would be interesting to hear your opinion on Chris King bearings? (mainly steel, though they do offer ceramic options too) Interesting because to the best of my knowledge, they're designed and made in house at their factory. Their products tend to carry a premium but I've had good results with them over the years. Cheers

[@olliegrave7229]

I'm from New Zealand and can only find the equivalent in nsk and wondering if they are high quality

[@LanceMcGrew]

Aire Velo Bearings - where do they rate on the scale?

[@chriswilliams5498]

NSK do thier VV, which is thier non contact sealed bearing. I sell the 69** and 68** series , that are the common series of bearing in bikes. I have had no negative feedback.And have sold them for many years. Im fairly confident that the NTN full contact sealed bearing whilst not running as free as a non contact seal have better sealing for more extreme use.

[@michaelvrbanac6923]

Thanks. Another excellent video. NTN non-contact seal bearings for hubs and wheels are awesome but not so easy to find.

[@cholongolongo01]

Any help with the actual size/part number for NTN bearings for a BB86 BB runnign Dura Ace? Thanks! Love the content!

[@Hambini]

It's 6805N but you cannot buy them from NTN.

[@matthewdirico7074]

Then where do you get them from? I have the same setup.

[@rustymac83]

Hi Hambini, as a mountain biker as well as a road cyclist I am curious do you have any experience of knowledge on ingress protection of a RZ type non contact seal and a 2RS rubber sealed bearings? for me i'm not only interested in the reduced drag of bearings but also the weather proofing. MTB bottom brackets are generally subject to more dirt and debris than a road bottom bracket, also tire drag is likely to far outweigh the drag by seals in a bearing. When it comes to pivot bearings their range of movement is minimal and whilst i'm sure having reduced drag across the bearings ( as the amount of stiction would soon add up with multi bearing linkages - side note - this could impact on shock sensitivity.) I am more concerned with longevity of the bearings as generally i do not have the time to strip down and replace multiple bearings on a regular basis. What would be your recommendation for bearing for these applications?

[@Mingloid]

Russel, I have similar concerns - not worried about fractional savings, but more about having fun in the mud without replacing bearings every few months. I'd say a 2RS contact seal is the way to go, as there's no gap for water ingress. Even better would be Enduro's LLU full contact seals.

[@davidmaco1]

which bearing is going to protect longer? the contact seal or the low friction seal? bearing going into the frame is the point of my question. I am guessing the contact seal?? thanks for the video

[@al-du6lb]

I'm in America and can't find where I can buy just 2 NTN bearings. They do sell them on Amazon, but I'm not sure I trust Amazon. I'm about to take my chances with amazon bc I can't find anywhere else..

[@Nobody-dc8dp]

Hey, I longboard, and I'm wondering if bicycle bearings are actually better.

[@Piplodocus]

I'm presuming this relates mostly to BB or wheel bearings? Do you have an opinion on best price vs quality for mountain bike suspension pivot bearings? I guess in some cases I care more about mud and grit getting into them and wearing that way. But maybe that's not entirely the case. I don't want to spend a small fortune on the ultimate, for 10 of them. It's not exactly gonna slow me down if they're lower quality, it's more about longevity and being regularly used in filthy, muddy conditions. I think my bike comes standard with Enduro Max double row. OK for that bang-for-buck (and I can get them free if I pay the shop to replace them under warranty), or is there a better happy medium to buy them myself and pay more to increase life vs not going bankrupt in the process?

[@geertmeersseman3111]

Hi Hambini. Bit off topic, but hey, us kids ... I experimented with full ceramic bearings on both front and back wheelhubs and freehub to get rid of lubricants and seals. I am proud to announce that after 4 montths of riding and commuting that 1 of the smaller 6803 freehub bearings (the inner one, closest to the gripping mechanism of the freehub) has failed catastrophicly: partly shattered inner race. I did not notice it happening though. I only checked because the freely spinning rear wheel was noisier during placement of a waxed chain. I have detailed pictures if you like. All other bearings are still tiptop as far as I can tell. I'm thinking of relubing the drive side of my wheel and replacing the broken SMB 6803 with a relubed NTN 6803LLB but keeping front wheel and non drive side of rear wheal grease free to see what happens. I'm wondering though if having 2 types of 6803s in the freehub is not some enginering nono (undue stress on the weakest link?).

[@sbccbc7471]

The only place I can accept running a full ceramic bearing is a rear derailleur's pulley wheels.

[@alexanderosherow2064]

why's that??@@sbccbc7471

[@devinfahada4880]

Nice video! But I was into square taper bearing, what is ur thought about some of the needle roller bearing on BB? Like Skf bottom brackets and 90s Chris king BB square they use needle roller bearing on the drive side and the other side is ball bearing

[@harleyday4276]

Any advice on Zen bearings @Hambini? I'm in the Netherlands, and they're the only brand apart from Enduro which I can find for a 17287 bearing for my wheel hub. Not sure how decent they are. The old bearings coming out of the hub were the original ones fitted by Mavic, and they were NTNs. They were great until the seal in my ratchet broke, which then exposed the bearings to water. Both now feel like peppermills. I wish I could get hold of some identical NTN bearings in the Netherlands, but it looks like it's not gonna happen unless I pay the import tax on a set from the Hambini shop.

[@BMWPROGRAMMINGJAMAICA]

What must be the clearance tolerance for A Rear hub Ceramic bearings without the wheel shaking after installation for my Road bike?

[@bikernaut1]

When will you make video on ceramic vs non contact steel bearings?

[@healthyfunkyfree]

It could be easier to change bike to a threaded BB - Got a Scott Plasma 2 (old but effective) can feel the bearings have gone - I think it needs a BB92-41B is this made just my shimano or could you recommend another manufacturer. Oh loved this weeks video on the Time frame, plenty of swearing and agro - keep it up and many thanks

[@petarstoychev1210]

What is your opinion for the solid oil bearings like SKF MTRX ? :)

[@norbertnagy5514]

Hey, hope you still read the comments under this video how does nsk vs ntn bearings compare. I read a forum post where you chimed in on skf vs ntn but didnt really talk about nsk. Nevermind(almost), watched the video you mentioned some problems with seals? What that consist of specifically? I would glad to know. But overall, which has the higher overall "manufacturing quality"?

[@gymexercise4935]

Can You do a review about the XD-15 Bearings ?

[@bradleydavis1772]

Japanese EKO bearings? Looking into Hunt wheels. Just curious to hear your opinion.

[@Hambini]

They are rubbish

[@jessewasson2183]

What's the best lubricant for bearing's

[@tylerdowling]

Question for Hambini: can you comment on the potential utility of tungsten disulfide dry lubricant instead of low viscosity grease or oil for race applications (in BB’s)? Thanks.

[@ziemowit5362]

Wow, great content! I really missed that engineering approach in the other channels. In one video you said that for wheels you prefer shimano cup and cone bearing hubs. Its quite interesting, since they are generally said to be low end and heavy. Could you explain it furthermore?

[@Hambini]

If you have the ability to make your own bearings in house then it's cost effective. Being a large company, Shimano can do the bearing races in house so it costs less for them to make. Cup and cone also allows for a large degree of preload adjustment whilst standard 6000 series do not.

[@TheTonicro]

What's your take on Chris King bearings?? I'm running Chris King hubs r45 for the last 4 years and roughly 30k km. Been trouble free all this time still running super smooth.

[@88anarahammertime]

Hambini how are you able to sell your bearings for so cheap? i live in the midwest in america and you sell bearings off your site at a fraction of the price misumi, and local suppliers in my area sell the same bearing for.

[@georgehugh3455]

A note on (my) Zipp 182 hub: Was switching to a Campy (blue) freehub & noted bearings were tight as the assy was not spinning freely. Went to LBS (they have press tools) to put new ones in & after replacement with correct shimming the new ones were STILL tight. Turns out the depths were off & bearings got heavily preloaded when assembled correctly- i.e. it's not always a bearing issue.

[@Hambini]

That is highly unusual. The bearings are usually a ground finish so the depths should not be out by very much. I wonder if the original was a C0 and the replacement was a C3 clearance, that would explain your preload problem. Nonetheless you could have been unlucky.

[@georgehugh3455]

Thanks, Hambini. As you alluded to, bearing dim's tend to be spot on, so I'm pretty sure the Zipp hub had a dimension that was short such that the bearing took up a tiny bit (fortunately) of the difference.

[@BMWPROGRAMMINGJAMAICA]

Hello Hambini I have bought Several Full Ceramic bearings where the Material is PEEK and Silicone nitride balls a 6903 and 6902 and there were no clearance printed on the Bearings nor on the suppliers website. After bearings installation in rear hub there was a considerable clearance which makes the rear wheel shaking. What's your advise? What ABEC rating should I buy where is no shaking after installation

[@dresnick12]

Do not buy no name Chinese bearings. Major brands ceramic bearing are super expensive. If you are not a professional racer it does not make sense buying them. They are meant for high RPM motors (10,000's RPM) and other special apps. In bikes hubs an BB (especially MTB) they will not last as they can not take impact well (they are more brittle than steel). The cause of drag in bearings is the seals, but again, if you are not a professional in a team with deep pockets you are not going to use open bearings (and change them after each race). AS for suspension and head set - they hardly turn.

[@SepuluhSeptember]

Hi hambini, thank to your video.. Now i want to buy ntn bearing. Any suggestion.. Size of ntn bearing for wheetset and bottom bracket? Thanks

[@aygwm]

Something tells me that installation and manufacturing of the actual bike and operating environment is more crucial than the bearing itself past a certain point.

[@stevecarleton163]

If you had to buy bearings for a winter bike bottom bracket (6805) what would you buy? Not worried about friction, i just want longevity. I would try and clean up the outside of them every 6 months but won't remove them until they are done. I live in the UK and BB's are always killed by rust rather than being worn out. I see NTN have Teflon Grease inside them. One of the Enduro bearings has CRC Marine grease inside it (and i know that grease is good).

[@Hambini]

Ntn 6805 llu

[@errigsyamusi6491]

Hi hambini, what if i used good bearings (example ntn llb) on my cheap wheelset, my question is,, there is a big different after that? Thank you before 🙏

[@sbccbc7471]

It would be noticeable.

[@Tws-cv1si]

Regarding bottom bracket bearings, I cannot find a quality bearing manufacturer that makes a 68052RS ( 25x37x7) but 6mm thick instead of 7mm for the Campagnolo Ultra Torque bottom bracket. Enduro seem to be the only manufacturer that can supply this size of bearing, but like you, I won't waste my time and money on cheap bearings. Do you know of a manufacturer who makes this size bearing? Thank you for the great videos. Tom.

[@Hambini]

ZEN do make them

[@cegalleta]

hii, in case you answer, even though is an old video. I can only find zz bearings for my hub, are they going to fail too soon? I get that rubber seals help keeping moisture and dirt outside better than zz bearing seals, but is it that bad of a difference?

[@AlwaysDiagnoseVehicleFirst]

I have a mens Nishiki Pueblo bicycle from dicks sporting goods, would you happen to know what kind of front and rear hubs it has and what bearing system it has front and rear as well? I will really appreciate your help with that.

[@bikernaut1]

What do you think about SKF MTRX bearings? Are they as good as advertised and worth the money?

[@nothingintheremeow5739]

Im using Zen bearing made in germany Do you think it will durable? Thankyou,

[@beaver7847]

Hi Hambini! How "delicate" are the non contact NTN LLB bearings? If I am on the road only and only involuntary riding in the rain now and then, how long would they last? Cyclocross would kill them soon, I suppose? Thanks!

[@Hambini]

They are not delicate in the sense they will break. The failure mode is dirt in the races which grinds them down. If you can avoid that then they will last well. The other option is when you get them dirty/salty, wash them out and then refil with grease. This will keep them in good condition but there is time associated with maintenance activities like this.

[@beaver7847]

I just installed a set of NTN 6802 LLB in a DT 240S front hub. The end cabs protect the bearings very well from water, I think that should last. ;o) The wheel spins much lighter than with the original DT bearings, but there is still a "break loose torque", that I don't have on my Zipp 77/177 hubs. Maybe that's also the well protecting end cabs. Also the tension of the skewer has an effect, the stronger the wheel is clamped, the harder the wheel spins. That's also not noticable on the Zipp hubs.

[@Hambini]

Hello Beaver, The skewer tension will have an effect on preload so that will affect how freely the wheel spins. I will be doing a video on that shortly. Glad the bearings worked out well for you.

[@beaver7847]

Thank you very much! Maybe you could then explain how the Zipp hubs spin absolutely freely even with a high skewer tension and the DT 240S won't...? Maybe the bigger bearings? Have a nice holiday!

[@Fortilab]

Hello, thank for the video. I have to replace one 6000z bearing from my bike but i guess its better to replace all of it (4 in total) for insure no problem in the future?

[@keananconnor4221]

How am I to know if the bearings I’m buying are no good (for hubs) do I just focus on brand names and what type of materials ?

[@sevontiy]

Hi, there is no way to buy headset bearings like cane creek but branded? My headset bearings from FSA rusted and died. Thinking about stainless steel one from cane creek but stainless steel is such a soft material...

[@user-nw2si7hu3u]

Does manufacturer recommended grease matter or will any good quality grease do when cleaning and re greasing ceramics? I am due for a service but my bike shops don’t seem to stock the recommended product given by manufacturer (bbinfinite) - which have been absolutely phenomenal bearings so far.

[@simonwarmer8777]

Hi Hambini, very useful vid, thank you! Got a question; for normal every day (dry) racing, is there enough grease in the NTN LLB bearings as they come out of the package?

[@jackautomatic8497]

NTN 6001: LLB, LLB-5K or JRX-LLB-5K? thanks!!!

[@emilysona]

Love your videos! Thanks for sharing all this great info. Which bearing would you recommend that can take a pounding on a Down Hill/Enduro E-Bike. My bike has SRAM hubs that use bearing 6903-2RS

[@raheemgahelable]

Man! That was amazing and helpful! Thank you so much for such great info!

[@datAero]

Im in France and my local distributor only has "5k" suffixed NTN bearings. What does it mean, contacting or contactless, it's all 5k. Should I get them?

[@sbccbc7471]

It means how much of the seal is contacting the inner race. Non-contact means the seal just lightly touches the inner race. Good for low friction, but not as good in protecting the internals from the elements.

[@GuimarasXtremeRiders]

Awesome vid. I have a Question. Does it help cleaning out all the new grease and replacing it with moly disulfide oil make a difference, or is it to slippery? And the metal seals. This is just used for sprints or uphill sprints. And just for the event. So max 5km. Might it just be a placebo

[@Hambini]

If you are going for an all out effort then take the grease out and replace it with a light oil. It won't last that long but it will do an uphill sprint.

[@GuimarasXtremeRiders]

@@Hambini thanks 👍

[@lesliekirk7036]

Do ntn make 699 2rs as I cannot find them anywhere cheers les

[@retroonhisbikes]

Lovin the prison issue boiler suit.

[@cognoscenticycles4351]

Thanks for the review! All good information.

[@johnunruh1086]

Do you have 7903llb?

[@sj2862]

Dear Hambini, you said here that ceramic bearings had a little better performance, do you still hold to this view or did your experiments in your comparison video change this?

[@JakeRidesBikez]

ever done much investigation into Kogel bearings?

[@deanoturn1985]

Great videos mate. Keep up the good work. Do you think you could do a video on bb30 and speedploy pedals.

[@Hambini]

Thankyou! I'll try to cover the BB30 at the weekend. Edit: Video here kzbin.info/www/bejne/bZjbhaCCatJshrc BB30 Video

[@mohamedthasneem9106]

Hi Mr Hambini, please advice if NTN 6806 bearings gets better over time? I find the new ntn bearings i replaced to be a little stiff. Wonder if it needs any running in or bite in.. appreciate your advice.

[@Hambini]

If they have full seals then they need a bit of time to break in

[@mohamedthasneem9106]

@@Hambini thank you, good Sir!

[@doenamite]

Is there a particular manufacturer you would recommend for loose ball bearings for cup and cone hubs?

[@Hambini]

Weldtite

[@patrickkelly8864]

I currently have ezo wheel bearings 9602 is it worth changing them to something better ? I race TTS btw

[@fieldlab4]

I always thought that smaller, cartridge tapered roller bearings (cylindrical, not ball) might be a better choice for bottom brackets. Bullseye once made a custom needle bearing integrated into their box steel BMX cranks back in the 1980's. They used a thrust bearing with it. Or maybe just needle and thrust bearing combinations. I suspect that bike "engineers" are compensating for a poor choice of bearings by making the bottom bracket ever wider and using larger diameter bearings. That's wrong.

[@orielireland]

Hi Hambini. Question re Ultra-Torque bbs. Can you use a bearing like the NTN 6805 25x37x7 instead of the campagnolo 6805N 25x37x6? Can’t find alternatives anywhere other than enduros.

[@Hambini]

You can if you are prepared to machine your cups. You'd need to take the extra 1mm off. Hambini

[@orielireland]

Hambini thanks for your answer much appreciated! It’s a 3rd party T47 campy so company might be able to do a custom conversion.

[@danrol354]

Great videos!!! Curious how I can buy NTN BB90 bearings? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!!!

[@Hambini]

NTN don't make specific BB90 bearings. You can use an NTN 6805 with delrin spacers. The issue is the Shimano crank is 24mm OD, the bearings have a 25mm bore.

[@danrol354]

Thanks. I hate that spacer and looks like only Enduro makes the 24mm bore..

[@Methodical2]

@@Hambini The problem is I can find the bearing, but there's no mention if it comes with the delrin spacers.

[@Methodical2]

@@danrol354 Which bearing did you go with?

[@danrol354]

@Methodical2 I believe I went with Enduro to avoid the spacer. I may want to go with the NTN bearing with spacer after I use all my spares. Which bearing did you say you found for BB 90 but doesn't specify if it comes with the spacer?? Thanks

[@atiroocky]

Hi Hambini ! I plan to replace Novatec Hub bearings. It is mentionned 1PCS OF #6802 + 1PCS OF #15267 on rear and 2PCS OF #699 for the front. What do you advise as bearing brand to replace them ? Thanks ;-)

[@Hambini]

I would go NTN 6802, ZEN 15267 and INA 699. The 15267 is not a standard size and only a small number of companies make the 699

[@atiroocky]

@@Hambini , Wahoo… that's impressive how quick and accurate you are ! Thousands thanks !

[@jayhuang3544]

Hello Hambini i have learned a lot from you videos i really appreciate it. just have a short question, i want to replace the bearings in my roval clx 50 front wheel, i am wondering what size of the bearings should i buy for the best performance, i think they are the same as dt swiss 240 internal structured. thanks a lot again.!

[@Hambini]

Usually they are 6902 but some of them have an 18mm instead of 17mm axle, so it's best to check

[@richinoya_]

Why did you want to replace them? I've been looking at some wheelsets including clx 50, did you have any serious issues with them or

[@jayhuang3544]

Richard Red found out the bearings in some of these wheel are tight, so they can’t spin freely. Need to take the bearings out and put them back, solved the problem. If your wheel can spin freely then you don’t need to

[@richinoya_]

@@jayhuang3544 got it, thanks!

[@adrianemilsen4893]

thanks for the great vidieo. i was wondering if you could provide any more info on the issue of internal clearance? I understand the reason for different internal clearances but it seems unclear in the bike industry if there is a standard for hub bearings specifically CN vs. C3?

[@Hambini]

Hi there, C3 is usually reserved for items with high loading. Things with a high loading require the extra clearance because the extra forces cause more heat and the balls, races and cage expand more. To determine the level of loading in the application, you have to look at the load rating of the bearing (refer to a bearing book) and work out if the loading applied is beyond a specified threshold (this varies with bearing size). If it is determined that the loading case is "high loading", you would specify the bearing clearance accordingly ie c3. Road Bike wheels will almost always be below the threshold for C3 because the loads are small. As a guesstimate , the loading is 150kg of rider+bike, 100km/h speed divided by 4. Which is comfortably in normal loading for common sized bike wheel bearings (6803, 6903). The bearing a hub manufacturer uses is usually due their assumptions and if they determine a loading could potentially be "high". In my example above, which I believe offers a high factor of safety, the bearing is normally loaded and CN clearance would be sufficient. If a hub manufacturer decides to use smaller bearings, they could potentially end up in the higher loading condition and then change the clearance accordingly. Fitting bearings with a higher load rating in a normal application has the disadvantage that you require more preload to take out the slack and they cause more drag. Hope that helps Hambini

[@adrianemilsen4893]

Thanks Hambini, Great response.

[@Hambini]

You're welcome. I hope all of your questions are answered

[@adrianemilsen4893]

HI Hambini, I recently tested two sets of wheels with different 6803 bearings. One with c3 (enduro) and the other Cn (NTN). It was noticeable that Cn clearance NTN bearings felt less smooth when installed on the wheels. I was wondering if that was your experience too... and did they come good after an initial break in period?... and by break in I'm not referring to the seals as they were both LLB seals. I also read this interesting article (see below link section on clearance) which suggested that clearance requirments can dependant on the bike hub manufacturer. ( see: thepartsshoppe.com/about-us/ ) This is a problem as I've never known any hub manufacturer to specify an internal clearance requirement for their hub bearings.

[@Hambini]

Hello Adrian. It sounds like the hole that the NTN bearings are being pushed into has a higher interference than it possibly should do. Commercial bearings are made on an industrial scale and in this day and age, their reject rate is extremely low (irrespective of whether it's NTN, SKF, FAG etc). Therefore I would doubt the bearing is out of tolerance. What is more likely to occur and I've seen it on many occasions is the hub is anodized. The anodizing process is notoriously inaccurate and usually the hole ends up smaller than the engineer anticipated. On a CN clearance bearing which has a smaller clearance than a C3, you'll feel this as "grittyness". If the hole where the wheel bearing landing is opened up to the correct diameter, the grittyness will usually go. The C3 bearing that you have tried, already has a wide(r) clearance so the "crush" applied form the wheel bearing housing is completely un-noticed. As for the break in period, Yes the bearing will break in - it will grind some of the track away pretty quickly

[@angeloantonucci9577]

Why don't manufacturers use full ceramic bearing ib a bottom bracket for example?

[@Hambini]

A full ceramic bearing is brittle, any vibration and it will break.

[@angeloantonucci9577]

@@Hambini thank you

[@damitamit2]

Great vid! Where do you normally buy the NTNs from in the UK?

[@Hambini]

Amit Chauhan drop me an email and I'll send you some!

[@lIIustration]

As an engineer, what are your thoughts about Ceramic Speeds claim of saving 10-16 watts?

[@Hambini]

I think it's BS and marketing spiel.

[@rainbowtrout9743]

do these bearings need grease applying to them or just fit them and that's it

[@Hambini]

They are pre greased.

[@nicolacardaci]

Hi Hambini! What do you think about C-Bear bearings? Have you ever tested them?

[@Hambini]

HI, I've never tried them so I can't comment.

[@mrwhiteshorts]

Sir, My cycle parts supplier now stocks TTN to the UK. You don't mention TTN bearings i dont think, what are your thoughts on them? Thank you, mark

[@Hambini]

I have never hear d of them or used them so I cannot comment.

[@mrwhiteshorts]

@@Hambini No worries, thank you for commenting :)

[@TELLMENOWWW]

wha?? I need 61803x5 61903x1 and a bb 86 gtx.I was going to get ceramicspeed. You and others talked me out of that. Then Endero. You talked me out of that. I just want the best. Based on wattage saving and I want it to be working in 6000 miles. (1 year) Please just tell me what to buy. I will tip the channel. Glad I found you..

[@Hambini]

NTN is very popular.

[@coleschott007]

does your information and research transfer over into go kart racing bearings?

[@Hambini]

XX X hi thanks for the comment. In general it will apply to any bearing

[@coleschott007]

Im into racing karts what about Timken bearings and or cylindrical bearings any noticeable improvement or lack of ? weight is not that much of an issue compared to a bicyclist

[@coleschott007]

what about full ceramic bearings ie BICA angular contact full ceramic

[@njx9230]

Hi there, awesome video (as always). I want to replace my shit zipp bearings in the rear hub, they are 6803 bearings. Is 6803 LLB/5K NTN the way to go? Cheers!

[@Hambini]

That's a popular choice and what I use.

[@njx9230]

Wow thanks, that reply was scary fast!

[@janetguzman1985]

KOYO bearings are much better than any japanese brand, coming from a Truck mechanic ..

[@ΣΤΑΥΡΟΣΓΚΕΡΛΕΣ]

It is very strange that i came across the complete opposite. For example, enduro bearings had plastic cages and some, not a cage at all. They are total crap that you overpay as well. We agree on that. Skf, never till this day have i found an skf with plastic cage inside. it is always metal. But very stiff to rotate even in 6801 2rs size which is very small. Ntn is the same brand now with snr , and they have metal cages but also extremely stiff to rotate. Nsk metal cage and reasonable ''rotary''. Haven't been able to find fag in 6801 and 6902 sizes yet. And an american cheap brand called PFI also have metal cage and they are very easy to rotate. I think they are made for high rpm enviroments. They are also the cheapest of all, except some chinese no name. Lastly for tolerances , i've been struggling to find c1 or c2 clearance , nothing comes out. Only c3 seems to be the norm, as i was assured by ntn representative . the c3 is the normal tolerance found in almost all bearings. For electric drills and extremely high rpms c3 is mandatory because of heat. But in bicycle you need tight c1 or c2. And i've changed the grease inside them to extreme pressure. But i have to say , that every single bearing that i've removed the seal from to regrease, no matter how cautious i am, when put back together, it just never feels the same.

[@RcOffroad9513]

I use bearing for my Rc Race cars, Nmb, and NSK are some of the best in our rc cars. Cheap ebay bearing are always crap.

[@djroskedjroske]

Realy enjoyed the video. Liked

[@georgehugh3455]

Great, informative show. I look forward to your guest appearance on GCN Tech (...at least we are lobbying for it).

[@Hambini]

LOL... I'm far too controversial and opinionated!

[@digital_harry]

George Hugh gcn has its soul sold to the devil, they have to follow an agenda, hambini is an honest engineer keen to educate, using facts and science, what are the pro and cons of the products. I think they will not match.

[@deskelly9313]

No screamed welcome or swearing? What have you done with the real Hambini?

[@TomPugh450]

C3 or CN for hubs? Thanks

[@Hambini]

Usually CN

[@ianbirch5811]

Have you any experience with codex bearings ?

[@Hambini]

Yes. They were pretty poor.

[@ianbirch5811]

Oh really , i’ll see how long they last 🙈

[@ronankelly4471]

Thank you for renewing my faith in real engineering, rather than the shiny, shiny, but rotten and fake marketing side. Now you just need to start making precision bikes ...

[@lesliekirk7036]

Can you tell me what number you called ntn up please

[@Hambini]

UK 01543 445000, hope that helps

[@Repulsive_100]

Did he say FAG or FKG?

[@Phen0mable]

You want LLB seals rather than LLU especially in UK where we have 20 months raining season 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@mrGTD170]

I had to buy my wife a Louis Vuitton bag, so I could only afford bearings of the brand called ZEN. However they seemed to be ok...🤣 The HQ of Zen is in Düsseldorf.

[@remitournier2526]

Hi, I am actually considering those, are you happy with them?

[@mrGTD170]

@@remitournier2526 Yes, they do the job. I guess they are OEM quality for most consumer applications.

[@steveedwards5280]

Hi, interesting to hear your opinions on bearing brands. I've got a question that I'd value your opinion on. I'm intrigued by the Onyx Racing mountain bike hubs. They use a plain axle, threaded at one end so you can adjust the preload. As standard, they come with hybrid bearings. I agree with your comments about this type of bearing so I'm already thinking about the replacements. All the bearings in this hub are sizes where there is an ACB alternative. As they have adjustable preload on these hubs, what are your thoughts on switching to ACBs?

[@Hambini]

If you are going to get high axial loads - and you might on an MTB then an angular contact will be better at absorbing these loads. This decision comes at a cost which is that of friction. If you were to do this on a road bike, it's a no brainer the friction increase is not worth it. I don't ride MTB so I can't comment on whether the sacrifice is worth it.

[@steveedwards5280]

@@Hambini Thank you for your thoughts on this. The main attraction to these hubs is the silence and the instant engagement. Given I'm running 2.4" knobbly tyres, bearing drag isn't as much of an issue. I'm more interested in good sealing and longevity (which is why I don't expect the standard hybrids to last long).

[@Hambini]

@@steveedwards5280 In which case I would get full seals, and if you are going to bounce the bike angular contact would be better. Even if it's an up and down motion of the bike, it's an axial motion because the bearings sit wider than the tyre.

[@nikolaosstavrou5327]

the best bearings i have used are from bocca bearings , for bicycle and rc

[@dinxruntings]

VERY VERY NICE....

[@Methodical2]

Am I the only one that degrease new bearings and repack them with better grease? Curious.

[@sven7639]

Finish Line Extreme Fluoro or what's your choice?

[@janetguzman1985]

thats a bad practice, you only use a degreaser if the bearings are contaminated with dirt ..

[@Methodical2]

@@janetguzman1985 Why?

[@dresnick12]

Enduro is not a manufacturer like SKF, NSK, NTN, Timken, ect. They do not specify the source of their bearings but they charge the same a and more than major manufacturers,. I would not trust them. Unfortunately some bike manufacturers use non standard bearings which are only available from Enduro.

[@mrtjcom]

Enduro do manufacture their own bearings...they have one factory in USA and one in Singapore...

[@pikiec1666]

Surely your grandpa would have purchased your measuring tools 25 years ago and placed them in a time capsule for when you reached 5 years, unless you have been misleading us about your age

[@brettlaukaitis3740]

You bash Cervelo so much why do you own one?