Inside a remote control RGB lamp.

A look inside a typical modern remote control RGB colour changing lamp based on the common modular base system that seems to be used on many lamps these days.
This unit uses a small 5V supply to power the circuitry and the LED itself via a simple transistor/resistor arrangement.
Note that the machined heatsink has very sharp edges and will shave the surface skin off your fingers if force is applied to it.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
www.bigclive.co...

[@ExStaticBass]

I actually think that the lense had more to do with it's failure to see the signal from the remote than the distance from it to the bulb itself. Some clear plastics don't pass infrared very well. Considering the fact that it's also a diffused lense, that might also have some effect on that internal sensor. One also has to consider the fact that one of the elements is a red LED which likely extends it's range down to the infrared range. If it's a PWM driver on those, it might be interfering with the remote's functionality too. That said, once it's plugged into a socket nobody should be touching it while it's on. I'd say you should just leave the lense off as I think that's the fail point for the remote.

[@gregorythomas333]

This is going to end in tears...and gonna give a mighty bang...and it's gonna disappear in a puff of smoke. I love these little dialogs! :)

[@Hasitier]

"I'll give the remote control a slight adjustment". You made my day Clive.

[@johnwattie1786]

Lovin these almost daily uploads!!!!

[@SagePatrynXX]

might be helping with that $2 paypal donation. EEVblog .. gosh I swear he's had toooooo much stimulant at some point. He's fun but Clive is funnier and more on point (er EEVblog reminds me more of myself on a bad day :P )

[@renton9999]

a few years ago I bought an RGB led bulb on ebay that I actually like, though it is no longer sold... it actually had a setting that would allow you to store a certain color that it would remember even when power is removed. it also has better RGB control than the current bulbs with remotes and could be adjusted to work with neighboring bulbs of the same model for a moving effect. also, in rainbow mode it does a true rgb rainbow without going to white in the sequence. all I know is I got it from a chinese company called "merry-light"

[@MilesUmbrae]

"Hold on, I'll just give the remote control a slight adjustment" **Bangs the remote on the workbench** That made me laugh hard!! XD

[@robertparkes4982]

The best way to open these, is to carefully wrap it in a cloth, gently lay it on the bench, then firmly twat it with a lumphammer.

[@TDGalea]

Robert Parkes "Twat it". Never heard that before but I love it.

[@robertparkes4982]

Yes ! "TWAT IT" is when all else fails !!!

[@harrystevens3885]

Bough a similar type three years ago of Ebay and has been in use every night since and the remote and lamp have worked a 100% wouldn't be without it.

[@webchimp]

On the lightbulb front, Poundland have started doing those vintage incandescent style lamps. Just hunting second hand shops now for a suitable vintage lamp.

[@MrAndersPedersen]

"Hold on,, I'll just give the remote control a slight adjustment"...... Smack! Smack!.... Lol :D

[@Madness832]

I've got one of those in an old Gilbert/Softlite 1970's plastic mushroom lamp. Only differences being that mine is more elongated, E27 base & universal voltage. Also have an RGB LED strip & both of the remotes are interchangeable.

[@ThumpertTheFascistCottontail]

Thanks for diagnosing the problem with the remote. The suspense was killing me.

[@Blitterbug]

Clive, I have loads of these and the IR reception is normally fine. It's the button cell in my experience that needs replacing almost as soon as you buy one.

[@zx8401ztv]

Now thats a nice heatsink :-D

[@maicod]

zx8401ztv yeah it can double up as a slicer :-)

[@BrokebackBob]

I long for the blessed day when Clive's knuckle will be fully healed.

[@r5LgxTbQ]

I have a bunch if Mi Lights, which are kinda like the Philips Hue in concept. They work pretty well and haven't burned down anything yet.

[@TheSSSdriver]

"Unfortunately it's too tight to get my probe in..." Ha! Perverted jokes...

[@chompchompnomnom4256]

Check out the oven LCD display video then @:D

[@wisteela]

So it wasn't just me then

[@Landrew0]

Only in the ear of the beholder.

[@whitcwa]

Sometimes a probe is just a probe. Not often, but sometimes.

[@raymondj8768]

he asent pushing hard enough you need a running start sometimes hahaha

[@PuchMaxi]

Clive's been fighting grizzly bears bare handed again ;) Just a little scratch, not to worry. Big Clives Magical Kingdom!

[@PaulCostelloFilms]

I ordered one of these and it arrived with a disconnected mains wire on the inside. Had to open it up to diagnose and solder it to the screw piece (I'm in the US). The heatsink did a number on my hand, too.

[@robertgaines-tulsa]

My RGB lamp is something like a 1 watt output. I really don't have problems with the light swamping out the remote even with the bulb aimed at the ceiling and I have to bounce the remote output off the ceiling. I works fine for mood lighting. I also use the blue or green light for dimly lighting the buttons of my Nintendo 3DS without interfering with the screen. The light continues to be aimed at the ceiling so it provides a low, soft game playing light. I often use blue or green because the case on my N3DS is blue-green.

[@markstrim]

My experience of these type of devices is that the white light will not dim, but the colours will, give that a try Clive.

[@yadabub]

Mine seems to be very similar to Clive's, although I've never opened it up. I use it fairly regularly for mood lighting and it probably has a couple of hundred hours on it. This one at least, does dim the 'white(mine's a reddish purpleish, but still cold- white)'

[@fuzzy1dk]

fixed voltage on the base and a resistor in the emitter is basically a constant current sink so you get a constant current through the led over a wide voltage range

[@UmbreWolf]

I have a few lights like this, on several the dimming fuction worked when held down, other two did by presses.

[@themongie]

Would be interesting to see how this compares to a Hue bulb.

[@MIKES0029]

I've been waiting 5 years for a remote RGB bulb with a non volatile memory!

[@DAVIDGREGORYKERR]

Is the one made by Philips the same, that battery for the Remote is probably a CR2023.

[@nimoy007]

I have this exact same bulb, but in a cheaper housing. Mine responds much better to the remote though. Mine also has a more opaque cover that does a better job of diffusion than yours, but suffers from the same problem you had with the little opaque globes in your Poundland battery operated LED extravaganza video. For those in the US, you can find these in Walmart in the toys department for $9.88 or much cheaper online, I'm sure. I modifed an artist's light table to fit this bulb and use it to display figurines.

[@vk3hau]

White looks like it has a shade of purple in it.

[@YS_Production]

Is it possible that the mains frequency also works as clock for the animated functions, so that if you have more than one of these bulbs they all stay in sync?

[@radionutio81ij79]

thanks Clive for the info I have not opened it up yet I was going to have a look at the circuit and take a few voltage readings interesting way they are using LEDs these days and thank you for the time you take uploading your content always interesting and informative.

[@techy4198]

I do love it when you give products a slight adjustment. If plan A fails, there's always plan B-eat the shit out of it.

[@IdleGod]

That extra line is probably used for timing. 60/50hz from the mains is a pretty reliable timing source.

[@MilesMetal]

I'd love to see more project/mod videos from you in 2017, Clive.

[@canadianavenger]

the white wire looked to go to the Y1 pad, which is usually for a crystal oscillator, so I suspect the 50Hz is actually the clock source for the controller.

[@nomadification1]

love to see a video on one of those two color christmas laser projectors

[@OldSkoolLover1996]

Have the exact same thing only with a different cap that makes it a spotlight instead of a more regular lamp like this. It's a nice little thing to have, though the fact that it doesn't memorize the last setting when you shut it off annoys me aswell.

[@girrrrrrr2]

I have that one. ended up taking off the lens, and it is a lot more responsive

Most likely the default color cycling mode is to simplify factory testing

[@BoozeBelly]

Could you mod it to save the last color like you did with that other light?

[@pinterelectric]

I got one of them from 5 below, neat little bulb

[@HuntersMoon78]

I've just received my rgb led lamp too, exactly the same bayonet fitting

[@johninkelham]

Clive's knuckle wound is getting no better, is this aggravated by punching images of Julien Ilett for reviewing the same product on the same day! Merry Christmas Clive

[@jasonalmont7572]

I pulled that chip out of a crayola branded bulb and stuck it in a fiber optic ornament with a couple of AAA batteries. Turned out pretty cool and the remote still works without good line of sight.

[@trcostan]

I know when the sun shines on the IR receiver of my tv it won't work. The sun has allot of IR content compared to the LED's in the light but I wonder with the lens reflecting all that light into the sensor if it would ever have a chance of working with the lens in place?

[@wupme]

Looks like it won't have much issues with heat with so much surface on the cooler.

[@HuntersMoon78]

They are great and run super cool.......unlike my Lloytron 10W LED Lamp which runs at over 60*c

[@donvito1973]

I think the mains detection is for timing.. I've got three lamps in a fitting and they all synchronise. Without 50Hz time signal they'd all drift over time. RC clocks in micros are only good to a few percent so they'd drift within minutes. The nice disco flashing would become a vomit if not epilepsy inducing strobe.

[@bigclivedotcom]

That's a good point, it will also be for the mains derived timing.

[@PaulSlootman]

Just snip the white wire and see what effect it has

[@SouthwesternEagle]

Nicholas Perrin I'm sure that it would get screwed up if you plugged it into one of our 60Hz outlets.

[@donvito1973]

They'd all still be in sync.. you just have to disco dance 20% faster :-)

[@danyk666]

I think that the remote worked better for the second time because the cover was removed (and thus not reflecting the LED light back to the sensor), not because of the distance.

[@RadioJonophone]

"I just can't get my probe in there. It's just a wee bit inaccessible." "Unfortunately, it's just too tight to get my probe in." Tee hee!

[@grayanderson6840]

You can always check the remote by pointing it to any digital camera or your phone camera and press any button and you will see the light coming from the remote. That's how I have always checked my remotes since the days of digital cameras/phones.

[@g8xft]

I’m wondering what the style of the IR detector is - looks like a standard LED on its side. If that’s the case, could lifting it so it points out of the lamp stop it being swamped by the LED and give it a better view of the room?

[@T3CHEVOLVED]

great way to come home from a half day of school

[@johnfraud9511]

Nice one, Clive!

[@darkanthem9056]

Thanks for the effort and vids Clive. Merry Christmas

[@KarmasTrainwreck]

Hey, I own a couple of different led-strips with the same remote (presumably same make, I see them around all the time). In my experience regarding the brightness controls, they have to be hold for an awkwardly long position, and then all of a sudden the brightness starts fading up or down.

[@TerrySterling-Thatguy]

You my favorite tinkerer are the primary thing my friend and i have in common.

[@Blowcrafter]

Have you ever taken apart a Philips hue lamp? I would really like to know if they are using CC or PWM to control the LEDs.

[@bigclivedotcom]

It will almost certainly be PWM. It's much easier than constant current.

[@Fake0Name]

By putting the resistor in series with the emitter like that, it works as a constant current sink, and you don't need a base resistor either. I'd bet they did it mostly because it let them reduce the parts count.

[@bigclivedotcom]

I was thinking it would have a current regulating effect. Perhaps also to spread the dissipation between the resistor and transistor?

[@therealjammit]

Mainly for current regulation. With a constant voltage on the base there's a constant voltage drop across the fixed resistor. Ohm's law will tell you the current through it. The collector and emitter current are pretty close to having the same current. If the voltage drop across the emitter raises due to an increase in current, the current through the base emitter will drop and the transistor will reduce it's current gain (remember, the base has a fixed voltage on it). If it's a mosfet it'll work nearly the same manner as a bipolar (base=gate, drain=collector, source=emitter).

[@Coolkeys2009]

Was the pwm frequency of the LED's interfering with carrier frequency for the IR remote?

[@markn2904]

Is it possible the problem with the remote control was due to the cover / diffuser on the light? I say this because the control problem you had was when the cover was in place. It was no longer a problem when the cover was removed.

[@ThreeCharlieKilo]

IDK if I missed it in your playlist but could you do a teardown of a dimmable LED bulb? I got one that works in a traditional TRIAC dimmer and I'm curious how it actually drives the LEDs. If they're just current dimmed, or if something onboard can examine the waveform and simulate the proper dimming level with PWM?

[@Smidge204]

Is it just the camera, or is that really a rather pinkish "white" ?

[@ast_rsk]

Older recording? Or did you punch your way through a metal door again?

[@drkastenbrot]

you should buy a better power meter like that neat one john ward got. Its made for lamp testing and thus gives you super accurate readings. Search for *LPT200*

[@locouk]

These in my experience never have enough light to be of any use other than a nightlight, I had one ages ago and gave it to an autistic kids dad as a sensory lamp.

[@jasongomez5344]

Have you dismantled a Philips Hue bulb? The full colour ones are pretty expensive at £50, but would really like to see how they work.

[@stealthbanana]

I bought one of these a couple of years ago for under £3 from DX, walked into Maplin and saw the exact same for sale for £14.99 with a fancy cardboard box.

[@rationalmartian]

Maplin has always been a little on the steep side. Or so I've found. Only ever used them for small, odd, reasonably inexpensive components or plugs/sockets. If one can possibly wait, it's worth getting it online and waiting for anything more than a few quid.

[@stealthbanana]

Handy if you need something there and then and they have it in stock, but if you can wait, or need in bulk, much better deals elsewhere. Shame, they used to be brilliant and had really knowledgeable staff who could give you advice, now you are asked to identify your components that you ordered from the service counter. Having said that you do get the occasional bargain on the shelves though.

[@tinfoil209]

I had one of these here in the US. Before buying multiples to for LED lighting, try just one first. Either the color or some sort of flicker would kill the sleep in our bedroom. The "white" on this was more purple IMO. Felt like I was in a fish tank with a light....

[@borisdg]

Please, can you try make teardown of most advanced RGB bulb - LIFX+?

[@olik136]

I have a 15€ lamp from the hardware store- it seems to be much better than the one in the video- I think it is labelt "lightme- Varilux" -It looks more like a normal lamp - it defaults to white mode everytime you start it, so you can use it as a normal lamp - and the remote works fine - the only bad thing is the low brightness of the colors while the white mode is really strong (about like a 60W tungsten lamp) .

[@carlzimmerman8700]

I had one of these that failed. It would just flicker a odd color and would not respond to any kind of input. I went big clive on it and realized I had no idea what I was doing. One of the caps on the power supply board was swollen (the bigger one) so I'm thinking that had something to do with it failing.

[@wizardorlegend]

You should install something like that power supply into one of the death darliks. Have you ever reports a product that clearly isn't up to British standard?

[@n1ghtblur]

huh. odd you would post this now. I actually just bought a couple similar ones, and they're not entirely the same as yours upon disassembly. The only reason I disassembled one was because I'm pretty sure static electricity killed the microcontroller.

[@Friendroid]

Cheap gloves with ruberized palms do wonders when it comes to open stubborn objects.

[@FiveSigma72]

Thats what your mum always says. HAHA. haha. ha. Ahem.

[@ambrb001]

What printer do you have I remember in a previous video that you said it has a ciss tank

[@paranoiia8]

I had similar one, and in my case battery in remote was problem with crappy respond when using it. I also converted it to battery and it now stand in room as candle(round long case), using few spare 500mAh batteries and microUSB controller from powerbank. With few adjustment(few resistors+switch for main power because it take some juice when idle because of IR diode ) it now work perfectly for almost year. Also I noticed that my have identical board layout with only one difference... that chip in my case it rotated 90*... Rest it exactly the same in terms of layout of other component.... weird, like someone in china copied other china copy but instead of making part where you can fit longer chip, they just make one for one specific 8chip that they had...

[@Millzieeeee]

Hey Big C, Would be awesome to bump into you some time in glasgow and grab a coffee and a blether , im forever repairing electronics but im no where as good as you in the knowlage department ahaa! Anyhow, alway watch your videos and loving how the curiosity never ends with you!

[@bigclivedotcom]

I don't get back too often, but if you ever see me in the street, don't be shy.

[@SouthwesternEagle]

Clive, try some of our American appliances. :) You just might find that 120v @ 60Hz is better and far less flickery. You need a converter in order to run our mains.

[@Darkassassin09]

I had a fan with one of those stupid blister button remotes and for some reason it drew the same current from the battery in standby as when you pressed a button. So if you had a battery in it it would kill it in a week whether you used it or not

[@pacey2g]

I'd like to see a Philips Hue bulb stripped down, I don't understand why they're still so expensive. The ZigBee wireless mesh controllers in them seem to be fairly steep but that can't be it?

[@simontucker1118]

dear big clive.... have you heard of powerbee indurance solar lights... wondered if they were actually worth the extra money and a teardown of them to see if they really are worthy of their name endurance.... my best simon in devon.

[@AiOinc1]

That photo looks very glossy, did you print that as a poster? You should start keeping these on a wall somewhere.

[@bigclivedotcom]

Generic glossy photo paper. It produces really clear images.

[@AiOinc1]

***** What?

[@AverageJoe2020]

Interesting unit. I don't want one. Crude memory function?. J.

[@raymondj8768]

ive got a spotlite like that colour changing i love it its a great nite light for the rooms low power or for watching movies or setting the mood if ya know what i mean haha kool lights

[@aureliusva]

Do the rotating disco ball type lamps. BTW, I like how people in the industry call light bulbs lamps, since when Edison patented the light bulb, he actually patented the electric lamp.

[@Pit_stains]

Could you take apart a Tile? I'm currently in the process of replacing the 2032 battery inside one, and would be interesting to know your critique and thoughts on it.

[@Pit_stains]

Would also be nice to the the ebay/amazon/store link to the items your tearing apart... at least when the item's get a "thumbs up" from you.

[@himselfe]

The (different style) colour changing LED lamp I got from Home Bargains seems to be seriously dumb when it comes to remote controls, it'll get triggered by any remote which is a pain in the ass when you're controlling your TV with one of these lamps nearby. I wonder if this lamp has the same bug?

[@MrNubix]

I really see so much dust piling up in that lamp through that heatsink

[@MABFR01]

I am thinking about buying one for a lamp in my gaming room, anything to recommend guys? 🙂

[@joshuabest100]

Unitae philips hue

[@MABFR01]

RC MAD oh those ones were on sale 2 days ago on Amazon ^^

[@joshuabest100]

Unitae I do highly recommend the Philips hue line of bulbs it's a great set for using your phone to change the color

[@tin2001]

I'd stay clear of anything that connects to internet or phones... there's a reason IT people use the phrase "internet of shit" and not "internet of things". That Philips Hue, BTW... might want to Google it regarding security....

[@joshuabest100]

tin2001 never had a problem with it tbh

[@AchrafAlmouloudi]

Can you try to make it stay off when first plugged in/light switch on and update us? It would be terribly annoying/creepy for it to turn on while the person is sleeping after a power outage, especially if it's a bigger LED used to light up an entire bedroom.

[@radionutio81ij79]

hi Clive nice download a friend purchased one of these from pound land and it whistles loudly when connected and power is turned on what would making it whistle ?

[@bigclivedotcom]

Sometimes switchmode power supplies make an audible noise. Particularly when they are lightly loaded and cycling on and off.

[@wisteela]

Was this from B&M?

[@alxwlsh]

I have seen this one of these in B&M Bargains yes.

[@wisteela]

crashprune173 There are also two versions sold by Pound Stretcher

[@bigclivedotcom]

It was from an online seller.

[@wisteela]

bigclivedotcom Thanks for the reply

[@alxwlsh]

Clive, Purely out of interest, will a generic IR remote control work with this unit? ( like the one you had with the remote controlled relay module)

[@ljmike1204]

som dont have dim but use those for speed controle of the program

[@afrog2666]

I have a jei iDual, and I think it puts out 800 Lm, and is rated at 11Watts. So this one pulling 2.5 or so, does it have just under 200Lm? I looks like 50 on camera, but there`s lighting etc for the camera, so its hard to tell :p It looks VERY dim..

[@ghostraider4312]

Hey BigClive you should get yourself a USB Killer and dissect it. It's a popular thing happening on KZbin.

[@Mezgrman]

The "white" light from the lamp looks awfully pink in this video :D

[@MrShwaggins]

I bought 4 of these type of lamps but I found them with RF vs IR. I got them all synced up so one remote can control all bulbs and they remember what it was on from the mains switch. The bulb here your tearing down is on permanent red in a fixture in my bathroom for those late night pisses

[@dos541]

Would the reason the remote was working better was because you took off the diffuser lense off the led

[@fatih3194]

how remote dimmer works ?

[@mike_x48954]

Is there a way to make this USB powered and get rid of that white wire?

[@bigclivedotcom]

Technically speaking it might be viable to just apply the 5V where the red and black leads go. I'm not sure what the chip will do if there is no 50Hz pulse.

[@mike_x48954]

I've tried applying 5v but it doen't work, it needs that 50 Hz signal from the white wire.

[@tbbw]

Why not do the finger test before you use the screwdriver on that cap? What's the worst thing that can hapen other then the entertainment factor going up?