Industrial timer knock-off. (Actually quite well made.)

[@MichaelSteeves]

I put one of these in my furnace a couple months ago. It works great and frankly doesn't have any major consequences if it does fail.

[@martinda7446]

If you found it so useful, why did you put it in your furnace? Geez, some people!

[@debug9424]

Domestic forced-air heaters are called "furnaces" in some places

[@ryanjcole]

He could have actually put it on his heater/boiler which would be a furnace... it's a place where a heat source is applied to another material. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[@kimsleep4111]

I bought several from a supplier, that obviously were not a true OMRON, (as it was $1.00 C) and it actually had a CMOS 555 in it.Its been working for over a year, delaying an exhaust fans turn off, after lights were extinguished....so for the price...I was happy.

[@carlubambi5541]

It's all good for home projects .Just remember ,any time you pay someone to work and use a device which has any components in it that are not approved ,you might find yourself in serious liability issues in the case of injury or other equipment damage .It's crazy what we have to do to get CSA ,(Canadian Standards Association ) UL/ULC approvals and OESA (Ontario Electrical Safety Association )approval .Everything has to be NSIT (National Institute of Safety and Technology )approved all devices controls sensors.Any time you pay anyone to operate any piece of equipment they must meet these standards or be approver by other agencies like PQS ,TUV Rhineland ,ETL and so on .Ambulance chaser are everywhere !

[@lescarpenter162]

I use the 4 pole mains operated version on my vacuum tube amplifier. It is set to 50 seconds and when it operates 1) One pole places a short circuit across the amplifiers in-rush current limiter. 2) Two poles apply high voltage, one to each channel of the amplifier. 3) The 4th pole is used to switch off the Red section of a dual colour LED on the front panel and switch on the Green section. It's been in use for a good 12 months and so far no problems.

[@bigclivedotcom]

Some modern inverter welders have a beautifully simple inrush limiter. They use a parallel cluster of NTC inrush limiters bypassed with a relay that is simply powered directly from the 12V power supply. The short bootstrap time for the 12V power is the inrush time delay.

[@crazygeorgelincoln]

Well that was more complex than i expected, i imagined a bimetallic strip and a adjuster spring, or a chunky capacitor and diode arrangement. Think my imagination may be 40 something years out of date.

[@gregorythomas333]

Yours & mine both...tehehehe

[@PartTimeLaowai]

Interestingly, Omron recommends in their user guide that their timers should be replaced as part of routine maintenace - "the recommended replacement period is 7 to 10 years"

[@josoffat7649]

All mechanical devices are prone to failure 👍

[@kardeef33317]

They are also good to prevent damage to a compressor if the utility power cycles it gives it time not to restart under a load.

[@ytadmin]

Per Omron's docs: Power indicator (PW) Time-up indicator (UP)

[@bills6093]

Yep.

[@marinduque-theheartoftheph]

I've been testing the timer as a power-on delay for fridge, in case of unplanned blackouts particularly during night times. However, I noticed the plastic case exhibits some heating and I've been wondering from what components and how hot they get in their confined environment. Your infrared measurements have definitely added some light to the guessing game. Now I know where the heat comes from and whether the temperature/s are within tolerances. Thank you!

[@howtowithelizabeth7513]

Marinduque - The Heart of the Philippines take a thermal imaging camera when it’s being used if the plastic is melting it’s not safe in my opinion

[@PIXscotland]

I've had a 30 minute 240V version of this in my fake YaXun soldering station (936b+) for the last two years. Works well to power the soldering iron off every 30 minutes, I just need to flick the switch off and on again if I keep working. Very happy with it.

[@kimsleep4111]

Heyyyy...thats a good idea...I cant tell ya how many times Ive gone for the evening and found my pencil on the following morning....DOOOOHHHHH!!!!

[@DiodeGoneWild]

The 100 ohm resistor seems way too low. The CMOS draws virtually nothing and the only load is the two 10k resistors. It easily could be replaced with maybe 1K , saving 90% of the OFF state current.

[@ravien6142]

i didt ecpext you in here sorry im 2 years late

[@cncit]

I've come across these in older 80's CNC machining centers. They are used to add a delay to the hydraulic motor switching on after the controller is powered up. Also I've seen them used to cycle an oil pump for lubrication on these machines..so one would do the pump off time, say 10 minutes and the other would do the pump on for say 15 seconds. I think the pin spacing is a standard across different manufacturers and the base it plugs into can take other types of relays as well.

[@chrissnyder2091]

I recently bought one of these units for my renewal electric system as a pre-charged delay for an inverter it seems to work quite well at a very reasonable price

[@OvertravelX]

Looks like the real Omron is about $100. I wonder how they're different inside...

[@gustavrsh]

I bet you pay mostly for certifications and tests

[@josoffat7649]

@@gustavrsh not to mention wholesaler markup, which can be a ridiculously high markup!

[@parcydwr]

The true Omron would be garenteed to switch for millions of operations. I wouldn't trust the contacts in the fake for very long.

[@kitecattestecke2303]

​@@gustavrsh better PCB and maybe good power supply for the CMOS part? Better relay? Usually the copies are bad from most of the extra cheap China ones

[@wotid]

I always use (used, electronic soft starters are now price competitive) dedicated star / delta timers for star / delta starting. They have a delay between the changeover of the contacts and the better ones even have an adjustable delay between changeover to give the star contactor time to drop out before pulling in the delta one. (Mechanical interlocks can also play havoc with the changeover if it happens too quickly too).

[@SeanBZA]

Agree as well, on larger motors the proper star delta switch makes a big difference in the load change transient, and can make a difference in reliable starting and random breaker tripping, or needing to massively oversize cables and supply breakers. Agree though on the benefits of the soft starter, took a 7.5kW motor from needing a 45A breaker and associated wiring, along with a massive dip on change over ( plus fixing the original installer making it start in delta and switch to running star, solved when the star contactor dropped a phase intermittently, and the overload not having worked properly, meaning the 130kg motor turned to charcoal) to a soft starter making the start smooth and low stress, plus giving a speed ramp up as well for it. Was a pretty big soft starter though, biggest that was still a single DIN mount unit instead of a cabinet on it's own.

[@willrobbinson]

star/delta contactors should have signal contacts wired so only delta contactor operates when star contactor has released and then pulling in delta contactor so there is NO chance of overlap

[@wotid]

Even with electrical interlocks (that they all should have), you still need a deliberate pause between the changeover. Ever wondered why they make dedicated Y/D changeover timers?

[@theotherdave8013]

i learn so much from this channel. Thank you man.

[@carlubambi5541]

have used many of those little timers from oven purge delays and delta wye starters ..Some people in the food industry like to load up their grinders prior to starting the motor .So wye delta is essential because of the massive current inrush on Delta .so we switch the motor wye delta .Start on wye and switch to delta .I think I posted a video a few years ago of a wye delta motor start up ..Can't believe Omron isnt going after the counterfeit items .Those little timers are expensive .The mechanical clock work timers are crazy expensive like the Carlo Gavazzi timers .

[@Nono-hk3is]

UP means "time's up!"

[@semiRockethr]

I used these in the machining workplace, the units that did some mechanical work had microswitches to indicate when the unit is near its end, but depending on the speed set for the unit it could take quite some time until the unit reaches the hard end, so we used these timers to set the unit time it would stay down. In this context UP would mean the unit is returning UP :p

[@rich1051414]

PW= Powered. UP = Unpowered.

[@bills6093]

UP is the Time Up indicator according to the Omron data sheet.

[@dustysparks]

Old computers in large labs had relays like this to kick the monitors on separate from the main units / CPUs if either all the computers were on the same power bus / breaker, or if the particular computer power-supply had a pass-thru IEC connector on the back for the monitor (so that you would only need one cable to the mains). This was back in the gigantic CRT days.

[@bigclivedotcom]

Strangely enough, over the last week I've been studying up on old CRTs. Particularly colour vector monitors.

[@zh84]

You might be interested in Curious Marc's channel.

[@lordmuntague]

bigclivedotcom: Check out Shango066's channel for impossible CRT resurrections. BTW, would changing that resistor next to the pot allow a shorter response time than 15 secs?

[@BlazeFox89]

If you need something more accurate for just a few dollars more, I use those DIN mount digital timers. Most of them count from 0.01 seconds to 99 hours which makes them endlessly versatile. Would love to see a tear-down of some of those :)

[@SeanBZA]

Genuine Omron has that in the H3B series, with a set of tiny rotary switches that change the display units and scales, so one unit can be set for delays from 5 seconds to 5 days, and the repeatability on them is pretty good. Only one item to stock for the wide range. I just used a cheaper Rhomberg Brasler version instead with smaller range, as I only needed a 10 second anti chatter on delay, and these were cheap and worked. Got a H3B sitting there for the 20 minute delay used to flip the heater assembly over from ultra fast heat, run the 220V 500W heaters on 380V for fast warm up, to maintain where they run 2 in series on 380V to maintain them at 160C. Funny enough these heaters are not the ones that have leakage issues with not being run for a month, the ones on 220v alone do, different size cylindrical element.

[@U014B]

That diode-inductor setup on the far right of the schematic looks like a cubist portrait of Kelsey Grammer when he had that mullet.

[@ovidiulu]

The konb is not working at the beginning of the scale (and probably at the end too) because of nonlinearity of the potentiometer (due to metalizations at the ends for connecting the pins to the resistive track)

[@jayare1933]

There is a shirt I would buy...Front "WHERE'S MY SPUDGER" and "I Void Warranties" on the Back!

[@timramich]

They have timers that attach to contactors for the very purpose of wye-delta starting.

[@sparkyprojects]

iirc, the 240v version of the real omron is the same circuit, but with some sort of dropper, even with a 12v coil (i could be wrong) No point using a triac or thyristor, because with the cycling type they would latch on, has to be a transistor. The real omrons come apart the same way with the dial staying put. I think the UP is 'time's up'

[@rjfxr]

Just got my hands on two 220 volts H3Y timers from elevator control panel while troubleshooting failed rescue mode test. Both showed brown overheat sign on one side and open circuit on the contacts. Turned out both were low quality fake timers

[@spudhead169]

I think I'd solder a pull down resistor on that transistor base. 220K or 470k maybe? Since the base current comes through an LED, when that output pin is low the base is effectively in an open state.

[@PinBallReviewerRepairs]

I know all about thinking the diode was in right and having things blow up and not work on a couple jet bumper coils. I cut out the diode and put in a new one and also had to replace 3 transistors on the board.

[@thehappylittlefoxakabenji8154]

My First relay was an Omron ! think I still have it somewhere, got it off a surplus board many moons ago

[@glenngoodale1709]

Thank you.....Appreciate your work

[@williamsquires3070]

I want one that makes a loud, obnoxious ticking noise like on game shows where you have to guess the prize in a limited amount of time, or something bad happens! 😈

[@fun_ghoul]

That's called an egg timer.

[@alkissack85]

star delta... oh how that brings back memories

[@amojak]

surprised the LED wasn' t just connected to the main rail , this would of mean the 100 ohm could of been larger and the cap could of been smaller. Likewise the Relay LED across the relay coil and use a small enhancement mode FET instead of the bipolar so the 4541 could drive it direct and not have current drawn from it. FET is possibly still more expensive than a bipolar tho. the 4541 consumption would be very static then and also very low so the 100 ohm could be increased quite a bit and the zener would be the dominant current draw. The lack of current draw from the 4541 will also improve counter consistency.

[@SeanBZA]

Transistor likely is a recycled part, and the transistor only is switched once per cycle. Not like this is a recycler that switches. Reset circuit is also not too good, there is a good chance of it glitching on slow rising power rails and never operating.

[@moseskioko1299]

Nice video

[@WooShell]

Would be nice to compare that side by side to a genuine Omron model...

[@DJ_Cthulhu]

Quite a useful timer chip, that :-)

[@BaronVonBeef]

Kinda off-topic but today I found a commemorative silver coin (1000 struck) for Strix ltd (isle of man) and it kinda reminded me of you

[@bigclivedotcom]

Strix are still going strong.

[@howtowithelizabeth7513]

Max Beefsteak it’s probably plated

[@Mark1024MAK]

When playing with these, you really need time to play with two, each feeding the other, so that your 😀is not delayed 🤣

[@ArlenMoulton2]

Would have been handy to know about these before my mate splashed out £80 on a Lovato pneumatic timer for his 3 phase compressor, at least that one comes with a guarantee although I don't like the idea of using an Italian contact block.

[@youtubienewbie2735]

thank god for the video something to watch this afternoon :)

[@TheRattleSnake3145]

What do I need to buy to get a signal from a motion sensor to turn off after 1 or 2 sec.

[@kimsleep4111]

most infared sensors meant for hobbiest use have a variable delay...or simply get one of these relays that has a 1 or 2 second delay.....depends on what you are trying to run. 1 or 2 second delays are easy to get with a MOSFET and a capacitor, resistor bridge.

[@fun_ghoul]

Wire cutters.

[@phils4634]

For a one-shot event use a simple Op Amp / Comparator circuit. If you want extra flexibility - the 555 is always my go-to solution! (The 'Net is awash with 555 simple timer designs!)

[@vylbird8014]

The NE555 - the timer chip that is so standard, every other timer is compared to it - is capable of operating in that mode. Triggers on low-high transition, won't trigger again until the input goes low to reset it..

[@chrisingle5839]

I use timing relays a lot at work. Never thought to open one though.

[@rpbajb]

Nice video, thanks. Just for a change, Clive, maybe you could reverse engineer a high quality device, and tell us what makes it so.

[@jusb1066]

kind of hard, it will be 2 things metallugry , better copper and (platinum?) contacts, and will have been tested for cycles rather than guessing its life from the design you copy, both hard to see when you open it, this will seem identical to the real omron timer from appearances, and couple with lower quality electronics, kinda like chinese capacitors vs quality ones, you cant tell by looking at them.

[@kimsleep4111]

Probably, from what Ive seen, the board would be coated for waterproofing, the components wouldn't be so slap-dashed in their mounting, and the soldering woulda been a helluva lot better.

[@SeanBZA]

Got some 40 year old Siemens made time edelay relays to hand, they are completely made from Siemens made components, from the wire inside to the relays used, and the only reason I replaced them was the relays inside wore out. Around 100 million cycles on them, on a part only guaranteed to do 100 000 cycles on full load. Could have cleaned the contacts as well, but after 40 years they were faster to replace than to repair them, plus the sockets on the panel itself were starting to break apart from age. OK 2 hours to get to the back of the wiring panel, but I also had to do some repairs there anyway so no real added time, and I had to replace other contactors as well.

[@mcconja]

I'm a bit confused. I need a relay to hold 120V to keep a fan running after a switch is turned off. With the H3Y-2, can I do this?

[@bigclivedotcom]

You do get delay relays that will hold on after their control signal is removed for the selected time.

[@mcconja]

@@bigclivedotcom I guess the H3Y-2 can do that.

[@Duderocks5539]

Hello there. I have a question. I am in search of a 14 Pin delay relay similar shown here, but I can only find them in a power on function only, and I need a power off function delay to control a motor contactor. If they don’t make a power off function in a 14 pin delay relay, could the board be modified on a power on delay to make it into a power off delay? If so, how could that be done?

[@bigclivedotcom]

You get off-delay timers, but they usually still require power, and a control signal to be removed.

[@Duderocks5539]

@@bigclivedotcom I could not find any time delay relay that has a power off function that has 14 pins, all are power on function. What I’m asking is if the board itself in one of the power on delay relays can be modified to change it to a power off delay? Or even buying a off delay relay and just taking the board out of it and putting it into the power on delay converting it into a power off delay? I need a 14 pin off delay for the relay socket on a board that I’m using, it’s to keep a motor contactor on for a few seconds after power is stop being supplied to the board.

[@kitecattestecke2303]

UP = Time is UP as it is a delay it is done when up is lit?

[@MrFlashx1]

Hi Clive good stuff can you show the door switch with ptc heater of a front loader washing machine

[@bigclivedotcom]

I have one here for a video. They're a clever design.

[@robt2151]

Presumably the thermal imaging shots were taken with the components in free air. Can you estimate what the temperatures might be with the components installed in their casing?

[@roythompson6137]

I have bought the 220v version ofthis to delay a small aquarium pump from coming on after a power out returns... but i cant get any voltage at all on any of the ouputs, not NO or NC... Whcich pins would I expect to see 220v after times up?

[@bigclivedotcom]

The contacts are volt-free. You'll need to loop the feed to the common contact.

[@roythompson6137]

@@bigclivedotcom So if my main 220v AC supply is contacts 13 and 14 I would also need to supply 220v to which other contacts and which would then have 220v (after time delay ) on powering back on?

[@roythompson6137]

@@bigclivedotcom so 9/12 need to have 220v supply which would then appear at 5/8 (NO) or 1/4 (NC)...?

[@mrsheesh3743]

@@roythompson6137 the "Common" terminal needs 220V applied to it; When the relay is not activated, the Common terminal is connected to the "NC" terminal (Normally Closed) and when the relay is activated (by powering the coil up) the NC terminal becomes disconnected from Common and instead "NO" (Normally Open) becomes connected to Common, until the relay coil is powered down.

[@skyoreece9805]

Hi Clive, where closing our shop in a few months it was a tv repair shop. Would you like me to send you some items from late 60s and 70s that you can have. Love your channel so much.

[@bigclivedotcom]

Much as I love to hoard vintage electronic stuff, I'm running out of room. And ironically for this era, I'm suddenly getting the desire to save a traditional 19" tube to retrofit into an old vector video game.

[@maicod]

sad to hear you're closing the TV repair shop. you could ask 12voltvids if he would like some

[@draketungsten74]

P W means powered, and U P means unpowered?

[@bills6093]

www.ia.omron.com/data_pdf/cat/h3y_m092-e1_1_7_csm1050157.pdf?id=196 Page 7, Time-up.

[@mikeynjs94]

Per Omron's docs: Power indicator (PW) Time-up indicator (UP)

[@draketungsten74]

Mikeyguy94: Good to know, thanks!

[@JamesLewis]

Hey Clive, nice video... I was thinking these would be nice if they had the option to be either change the input on pin 9 to change the "initially high" or "initially low" mode... I considered the option of a switch on the relay itself, but this would be very dangerous in use as it might get changed and the function would change.... so, how about this solution. Instead of using a polarity protection diode, use a bridge rectifier, and then take one side of the input before the bridge to pin 9... would this not cause it to work in either polarity, but change the mode depending on the polarity of the supply... which then could not easily/accidentally changed once in operation?

[@ryanmasukat4238]

I think I'll be a good tiny transfer switch 😀

[@martinda7446]

Clive 'UP' means facing toward the higher position. Example, Up the stairs or Up the junction. Could someone explain to me what 'down' means? I have trouble with that one.

[@clintonscott9623]

Ha, you gave me an idea.... how can you be contacted for circut design?

[@kevtris]

Wonder if Clive measured that zener drop thru that diode on the minus side? That'd make a 9.1V zener read around 9.7V. For once this is a chinese product with zener regulation that doesn't overstress the resistor driving it!

[@bigclivedotcom]

I measured it directly across the zener.

[@electromechanicalstuff2602]

Help!!!! I bought several of these they work great but it takes like a month + to get em. I bought 0-5 sec and 0-1 sec not sure which I would need this time. But I messed up. I needed them all to be 220 volt. Instead I got 0-5 in 220 and 0-1 in 110. Guess which one I need now. So i can just change the capacitor to change my 0-5 sec into a 0-1 sec?

[@bigclivedotcom]

It should be viable.

[@pleasecho2]

What type transistor?

[@sergaljesus]

would a star-delta starter also be called a delta-wye starter, or are those two different somehow?

[@bigclivedotcom]

Wye-Delta works too. Some use the word wye instead of star. In a way it's a more accurate description of the three legged star.

[@sergaljesus]

@@bigclivedotcom oh okay, thanks!

[@kevvywevvywoo]

no qualms with low voltage fake timers. But I've just had a jolly old time fault-finding on a machine that had fake omron octal relay bases....that had spigot keyways at both the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions. This caused some problems.

[@bigclivedotcom]

Now that's what you call a nightmare for troubleshooting. Especially if someone else has been pulling and inserting relays randomly.

[@kevvywevvywoo]

they had.

[@H0ttabych]

Hi! I've watched some of your videos and noticed that you have a box which connects to AC when closed and disconnects when open, where can I get that? Thanks

[@dashcamandy2242]

BC dedicated an entire video to the Cliff Quick Test: kzbin.info/www/bejne/lXW3nn9taNmbbbs In the video description Clivey links to both UK and US suppliers.

[@H0ttabych]

DashCamAndy thank you very much!

[@bulwinkle]

Oh dear, did BC just confuse heat and temperature?

[@petergorrie1013]

Good job as always' bigclive, completed KKmoon digiclock, can you recommend anything other soldering kits that i can build, makes me relax.

[@bigclivedotcom]

If you search eBay for LED kit suite clock or flashing then you'll find lots of random kits.

[@petergorrie1013]

cheers from Ayrshire.

[@phonotical]

Up, user preset?

[@AureliusR]

Why on earth are they using a zener diode to power the chip? Those 4000 series CMOS chips will happily run up to 20V.

[@maicod]

Clive when you zoom it looks like you are turning a knob or are you sliding an on screen slider on the phone you record this with ?

[@bigclivedotcom]

Sliding a slider on the screen.

[@maicod]

ok thanks. I thought different cause your zooming steps seem so smooth and spot on for touch screen controlling

[@fadidan84]

Hello, What kind of printer is used to print the ebay listing page?

[@bigclivedotcom]

Epson ET 4500.

[@fadidan84]

That's incredible, I thought it had to be a color laser printer. Much appreciated!

[@Benom8]

A bit off-topic, but in many circuits you draw out I see smoothing capacitors without a resistor to drop the voltage difference between noisy/rippley source and the filtered output. Do these filters usually rely on input impedance/ circuitry upstream? Also, is this any worse for the power factor?

[@SeanBZA]

In most cases these in industrial controls are fed from a supply from a control transformer, which typically is rated to supply the load current of the controllers, or 2A, whichever is larger. Most however use a 24VAC supply with each controller having it's own internal rectifier. Power factor wise they have none, the transformer providing it with power doing the power factor correction simply by the winding impedance acting as a filter.

[@Benom8]

Of course I chose a video with a DC circuit to ask this, herp derp! But when he looks at rectified power supplies there's often a filter capacitor after the rectifier with no resistor source-side. I suppose that the impedance of the source must be allowing the filter to work in that case.

[@twocvbloke]

Could it be a 2nd hand one that has been tarted up in china? Could explain why it's reasonably good in quality...

[@randfurs]

twocvbloke I don't think OMRON would do that, they would want to protect the quality image of their brand. I think it's just a knock-off.

[@kimsleep4111]

they sell thousands of these knock-offs, easier to make, than tart one up.

[@SeanBZA]

Genuine fake, the real ones use almost exclusively a tiny microcontroller on the board, and a much better pot as well. The power supply as well will be multi purpose on the board, you will have a board with power supply parts on it and a control board, and the power board will have places and traces for either a small transformer for the ones over 100VAC, or for assorted dropper resistors for the low voltage ones, and will have protection for overvoltage as well on board. Real one also has an ambient temperature sensor on the board, used to do temperature compensation for ambient temperature on the oscillator.

[@LarryAllenTonar]

SeanBZA can one tell it is fake without taking it apart? (other than low price)

[@kimsleep4111]

The mentioned "Dead" timing areas that dont start timing until the 10-15 second mark is a dead give-away. They put all the right markings, all the correct plastic color, so its difficult. Most Techs will open uop their relays to look, specifically to see if its fake or not. For its intended use, this relay is just fine...I doubt if it will make it into a Lunar Lander or such.

[@james42519]

someone has never used a dial timer before. everyone knows you turn manual ones past half then back down to the time. don't matter if it is kitchen timer or a manual timer on a microwave. you always turn it at least half way then back down. learned about this in school since had them for some reason in elementary school

[@martinda7446]

Your voice sounds nice and rich and 'BBC' today. PS How often do you feed the sleeping squirrel (stuck on your chin)? Any chance we can see it exercising in a wheel? ER..PPS These relays look very useful and nicely made too.

[@Aero-ko5ex]

is this a real omron or fake omron timer?

[@bigclivedotcom]

Probably fake.

[@iStormUK]

Thumbs up if you noticed the dirt on his magnifying lens :p

[@phils4634]

Whole ecosystem there, Mate!

[@Spiz103]

Really this sounds like it could build a respectable reputation itself, if they hadn't made it an Omron-fake. It is almost a shame.

[@aszi77]

My toaster has the same timer chip.

[@htomerif]

So I have two problems with this thing. First, specifically with this, it looks like its made out of that compressed paper-fiber board (looks like FR4 painted green on top but white everywhere else) and that stuff is pretty bad at preventing moisture ingress. That combined with having a 1Mohm potentiometer means there's a good chance the timing will change substantially over ranges of humidity and as the device changes. (I'm guessing that or the flux they used is why it only goes down to 15s) The second problem I have is with this kind of item in general. If I buy a cheap brand of industrial control wigetry, it might not be as high quality as Omron or Honeywell, but at least its going to be consistent quality across the same item. With these fakes you just don't know what you're going to get. I mean that hand soldering job is such that even the ones that particular guy made are probably terribly inconsistent. I cant think of too many places to use this where total failure and lack of consistency are acceptable.

[@mikapirinen5561]

Are you sure? This item must put in dry place and timer accuracy is couple seconds.

[@htomerif]

So here's the thing. Off the top of my head it was a 220kohm resistor and a 1Mohm potentiometer. The interior of that kind of board is hygroscopic, so when its humid out it sucks up moisture. As soon as there's enough for current to flow its going to start drawing metal oxides and metal salts into the board and the path across that 1Mohm is going to go to anything from a few kohms on up. Looking at the board, its a piece of a larger prototyping or breakout board thats been cut, so any moisture barrier is already gone. My main point, though, was that you don't know what you're going to get from one to the next and that applies to all of the counterfeit stuff. Also, at least in the US, you have to watch out what you import, especially if you know its counterfeit. Customs is kind of cracking down on a lot of things coming out of China. It would be nice to know what some reputable Chinese brands are in these videos rather than "there's a guy somewhere stamping Omron on the side of stuff". Generally you can get pretty cheap stuff that comes from the same factory as big name brands when they're manufactured in China or Taiwan or Malaysia. Not so sure about India or Vietnam.

[@edcastillo6126]

would like to have do LED on signal lights made in usa, thanks

[@BonannoCM]

Just curious... with knockoff clones flooding the market, does anyone know what kind of legal liability the installer is responsible for when something horrible (expensive) happens.

[@bigclivedotcom]

If an incident resulted from the component then when they tried to trace it back to its source it would stop at you ordering it from an unknown manufacturer. In moist instances nothing like this would actually happen. It might stop working and get replaced. But I don't recommend using untraceable components in a safety critical application. There's a whole industry based around finger-pointing.

[@WaltonPete]

Damn! I'll have to replace all the timer relays I fitted in the control room of the Hinckley nuclear power station! 😜

[@sylkelster]

UP = "times up." Doubt the authentic ones say this, but they might.

[@MikeHoughtonasUnit8720]

Did not relays were still used, I thought they were phased out in the 80s

[@williamsquires3070]

I wonder if the make a version that uses explodium capacitors - this would be useful on the sets of Sci-fi movies where you want a console to explode a few seconds after the enemy missile penetrates the shields. Even more fun if you tell the hapless cast member that turning the knob all the way to zero resets the shield generator! Evil 😈

[@កែឆ្នៃគ្រប់យ៉ាង]

Hello

[@Joetechlincolns]

Any fake Potter & Brumfield relays floating around?

[@mcb187]

When I saw the chip, I thought it was going to be a 555 timer... guess not!

[@Yes-ng6rf]

UP means up IE your time is.... up

[@ACombineSoldier]

I thought it was going to be pneumatic.

[@howtowithelizabeth7513]

It’s fake but if it has quality at least it’s most likely safe and will do almost as good as the original

[@bryanmullins2063]

U P = Under Power?

[@jaggns5774]

up: power up no up: power low both feasible.

[@jamesvandamme7786]

How do you know it's a fake? Just by the price??

[@bigclivedotcom]

Yes, and sometimes little printing errors.

[@jamesvandamme7786]

Maybe it's a gray market but genuine. "Fell off the back of a truck" or repaired rejects.

[@renton9999]

"UP" refers to the state. when the light is on the output is on or "UP, and when the light is off the output is off or "DOWN"

[@RavenLuni]

If its a blatant ripoff of a known brand, does that mean the certifier's logos werent officially granted either?

[@bigclivedotcom]

Everything is fake. Not UL listed not properly CE certified. The product could work fine (although I wouldn't use it anywhere near their stated rating). But if an incident occurred then it could raise liability issues.

[@parcydwr]

Should be banned! These fakes get into the electrical sales system and might end up in a safety critical use. All Chinese fakes should be clamped down on.

[@phonotical]

Could you make a resistor radiator, opposed to a standard electrical heater that is

[@bigclivedotcom]

You can use resistors as heaters if that's what you mean?

[@phonotical]

bigclivedotcom they come on a long strip, could you join them all up, add a fan for airflow and heat a room, or is that just really inefficient 😅

[@WaltonPete]

All electrical heaters are just a long wire, or other conductor, that resists the flow of electricity sufficiently to become hot. Using a load of resistors would be no more inefficient than any other resistive heater but it would probably be much more expensive than just using a piece of suitably resistive wire.

[@colintinker7778]

Zener diode, not zeeener! Great video's and very informative.

[@WaltonPete]

Colin Tinker Zeeeeeeeeeenah!

[@maicod]

a zeeeener is just a long zener ;)

[@stephenbelcher]

: Jack Nicholson✍️👍😃

[@MagikGimp]

I was going to ask who exactly buys these because surely you will be fired for using fake components at (reputable) employment. Presuming hobbyists, I then proceeded to read some comments to have my assumptions confirmed. Well there you go.

[@stevebollinger3463]

It’s not a knockoff, it’s a counterfeit. If it copies the function (and maybe appearance) but has its own brand name it’s a clone. If it copies the brand name it’s a counterfeit. A knock-off is when it’s a merely similar product but offers its own feature set. For example if someone makes a phone a lot like an iPhone but run Android and has a different feature set it’s a knock-off. Knock-offs are the hardest to define. What is ‘too similar’? Some even say iPhones are knock-offs of various other phones for example. Counterfeit is the easiest to define. This isn’t an Omron but it says it is. It’s a counterfeit. Counterfeits are illegal even in China. But obviously enforcement is spotty at best.

[@PaulMabley]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/iZWQeXSYhdVjnMk Boom!!! How not to check if a cable is live....Or the proper way if you're Polish (or are they Russian)?

[@urugulu1656]

the print on the side says made in japan...

[@two_tier_gary_rumain]

That's fake too.

[@jusb1066]

yep. fake UL, CE and made in japan, they will print anything on the box you ask them too!

[@jusb1066]

agreed they arnt^ western companies are the one asking for the fake print on the box and selling them as the real product

[@dogwalker666]

That's because the genuine one does

[@WaltonPete]

Против Глобал Return it to the shop / seller you purchased it from if you're not satisfied with the products claims.

[@flagpoleeip]

You're 100% certain it's fake? Not a second or something?

[@amojak]

Knowing the chinese probably both.

[@kimsleep4111]

You can find these, including the plug in screw Base starting at about $1.00 Canadian, sold by over 50 suppliers on EBay....TRUE equivalent Omrons start around $45.00....and OMRON dosnt sell "SECONDS" (Omron usually sells the Bases seperately, for about $10.00 as well). All these prices are dependent of Current handling and trigger voltage, I just picked a median example. I truly believe that these are knock-offs, in every example.

[@SeanBZA]

Absolutely a non Omron part. Simplest test is there is no overvoltage protection, no fusible resistor in the power feed and the pot is not the one made by Omron. Omron also makes their own relays in house, and they will have a cover on them as well, not open contacts in the housing.

[@pierreuntel1970]

"made in japan"

[@two_tier_gary_rumain]

Do you believe everything you read?

[@fun_ghoul]

In a few years, people will be faking "Made in China" on stuff made in Thailand.