Using LEDs as mains indicator lights on 120V and 230V (live demos)

Modern LEDs are bright enough at low current to use as directly mains powered indicators with minimal circuitry. The slight downside is that with a simple resistor circuit the vast majority of the power gets wasted as heat. But the current is so low anyway that it doesn't really matter. Here are some simple ways to drive LEDs from 110V to 240V with minimal circuitry.
I tend to recommend running resistors at around half their rating at worst as it means they will last a long time and not discolour too much with age.
Note that I was working with open live connections to demonstrate the circuitry. I recommend wearing dry gloves when working with open circuitry and ensure your work area is RCD/GFCI protected as my bench is.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
www.bigclive.co...

[@Landrew0]

As a kid in the 70s, I got a hold of some red LEDs, which I thought would make nifty tail-lights for my slot-cars. I drilled out holes for them, and I did some very simple calculations with Ohm's Law, and soldered in a resistor to each LED, and wired them it to the power source in the cars. I can't believe how perfectly they worked, and lasted many years for the life of the cars.

[@N0Xa880iUL]

Great story. That's how I learnt! But in college lol

[@dascandy]

As a kid I had a 14V train set, and I got a 12V train. I tried a few resistors and found the right value that would result in 12V max on that locomotive, so I could run it without risking damaging it. About 15 minutes later the resistor went poof. It was *just* too much for the quarter watt resistor. That's how I learned that components have limits & that you should adhere to them.

[@LoganT547]

​@@dascandyA difference of ~2V is usually never a problem, especially for something simple like a little motor. The electronics would have to be incredibly sensitive to have any problems. At worst the train would run a bit faster than the others.

[@UltimatePwnageNL]

You're the only one who stands a chance of teaching me basic electronics in a way that sticks. Please make that video!

[@SGM260190]

Yes, please do!

[@power-max]

Maybe the Tutorial Tuesday videos on my channel could be of some assistance? This is totally not self promotion in any way. ;)

[@markopesevski]

Sign me up for the petition!

[@workhardism]

Same. Looking forward to seeing it.

[@ceneblock]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/bH7Eomh_rq2Gq8U

[@TheRealSasquatch]

Possibly the best description of a bridge rectifier i've heard.

[@justinpatterson7700]

I've been doing this for ages and this description finally made it click in my head what happens in a bridge

[@beernutsonline]

@@justinpatterson7700 I've been doing electronics professionally for nearly three decades, still produce the occasional cap incinerator in my circuits.. :p

[@weird_money]

A dark emitting diode sounds cooler than it should.

[@nrdesign1991]

That'll be interesting, a device emitting darkness? Maybe counter the incoming light with phase-shifted light waves?

[@Spiralem]

anti photons

[@jayherde0]

In it's working state, an LED is a 'dark sucker'.

[@recurveninja]

+nrdesign1991 Like those active noise cancelling systems they use on subs? That would be pretty darn cool. I doubt it would work, but admittedly that's only because AFAIK no one's done it yet, and I don't know enough about it to prove or disprove it myself. Speaking of active noise cancelling, now wouldn't that be an interesting teardown? Not sure they sell them on Aliexpress though. Real ones, at least.

[@DjResR]

It's like micro black hole._

[@williamcox1176]

Bloody hell Clive, watching your hands around those live contacts, I'm a know you know what you are doing, but it still made my bottom pucker.

[@USA-GreedyMenOfNoIntegrity]

You can bet he’s been shocked over the years. That’s why he is so careful. Us HVAC techs are the same. You’ll learn to be careful the older you get.

[@operator8014]

This is likely the single most useful video to ever grace KZbin with it's presence.

[@mitravindgarg5372]

I completely agree

[@gummel82]

In my opinion that was one of your best videos clive! Very informative and entertaining. You're like the bob ross of electronics with your calm voice.

[@Leon-mx2up]

Perfect analogy

[@craftymulligar]

Seems like that said in every video. Never really watch Bob Ross too boring for me.

[@davepv9045]

@Gummel Man, i thought there's a hair on my screen where your profil picture is.^^

[@namespacetoosmall]

I like the burns and stains on your workbench. There's a lot of KZbin history there. :-D

[@frac]

And the burns and stains on his hands. I'm sure I still see a faint cock and balls outline on the back of his hand...

[@twocvbloke]

hehe, the awkward tattooing machine incident... :P

[@bradmad8346]

For some reason I like the capacitor dropper concept, AC allows a lot of things to work that would never work with DC, then you get into radio frequency and it all chances again, I have worked with 2-way radios for 30 years and I still learn things everyday, as always love to watch your videos.

[@Elfnetdesigns]

My self converted tungsten to LED Christmas lights are still working Clive. Thanks for that video almost a year ago

[@EsotericArctos]

Love the "dark emitting diode" line. :) It's easy to see how much you love electronics watching videos like this, and also how much knowledge you have. I know it's a few years ago, but I still haven't managed to watch all your videos yet. I really enjoy the way you explain things in such a matter-of-fact way that is interesting to technically minded people, but also simple enough for non-technical people to understand.

[@woodywoodlstein9519]

Love how big Clive is always admitting to his errors. And I love the little Math tutorials he embeds in the show. That is very very helpful

[@muh1h1]

I always get a bit nervous seeing your hand 1cm away from a live wire :D

[@jort93z]

he's not grounded. he mention's that in a lot of vidoes. i assume hes not grounded in this video either. correct me if i am wrong.

[@SuperPickle15]

exactly, the worst case is he'll get severe burns on his hands if they make contact to the wires.

[@jort93z]

SuperPickle15 but he'd have to touch both wires at the same time for that. you wouldn't burn your hand when no current flows through it.

[@SuperPickle15]

the wires are connected, so if you rest you hand over the wire, some current will flow through the hand where it contacts the wire, however, the resistance of dry skin is far higher than the wire, so it's less of a risk.

[@jort93z]

SuperPickle15 why exactly would it flow through your hand? it wont flow through if you are not grounded.

[@nitehawk86]

I was hoping for a SED: Smoke emitting diode.

[@mauricewalshe8339]

Or the famous NED "Noise Emitting Diode" - which only works once

[@akkudakkupl]

@@mauricewalshe8339 flame emitting diodes are better 😁

[@stefanpejak9131]

Diy you mean "Shmoke emitting diode"?

[@SteveM45]

Yes But it is a DED, dark emitting Diode.

[@gordonmcmillan883]

Looking forward to the electronics video - I remember most of your 'basics' one from a while back

[@CoolJRT2009]

I plugged a 3mm LED from a PC case into the 240V mains in my bedroom when I was little, and it was spectacular! White sparks shot across my bedroom with a loud muffled pop/puff sound. It was so loud and bright, my mum walked in and asked what happened. That's how I learned that just because an appliance plugs into mains power, doesn't mean it uses that mains power to run everything inside it

[@bigclivedotcom]

Did you tell her? And what did she say?

[@CoolJRT2009]

@bigclivedotcom I told her that the LED popped, but I left out the part about it being plugged it into mains as I didn't want to get yelled at. My logic at the time was: LED doesn't light up either way around with a good battery, and it came from a PC case which plugs into 240V, so maybe it's a 240V LED? So I stuck its 15cm wires into the power point, stood to the side and flicked the switch. I got such a fright though that I was shaking until I got to school that morning, and I still find it hard to trust anything that goes into mains - gradually trusting it again as I learn more Did you end up posting the electron theory video you mentioned at 20:59?

[@Petertronic]

Dear RI Christmas Lectures, please can you get Big Clive, it would be the best lecture ever!

[@junkmail4613]

Petertronic 4 years ago, "Dear RI Christmas Lectures, please can you get Big Clive, it would be the best lecture ever!" "Winner, Winner, Chicken Dinner" Then Bob's yer Uncle fer sure! ... I really like that Idea, Honorary Big Clive on RI ... Yes, Brilliant!!!

[@Petertronic]

@@junkmail4613 Indeed!

[@DavidOwen-p3u]

Yes perfect ! I would love to watch Clive on ri Christmas lecture

[@evil00horse]

Really enjoyed that Clive. I'm a fan of the longer format video you do. The electron theory video sounds like one to look forward to. Love ya work.

[@madamerotten]

I keep hearing Clive say "neen" instead of "neon." LOL

[@RobbieHatley]

It's more of a "NEE-n", than just "neen". Two syllables, but with the second one very short. (Whereas I tend to pronounce it "NEE-ahn". That's how we say it in California.)

[@carpenter940x]

Ha, I had to read the comments just to find out what a "neen" was.

[@plageran]

I kept hearing "Noom", read the description and kept asking "WTF are you using man!!"

[@Purple431]

Neon argon Neen argen

[@tylerhatfield2351]

@@carpenter940x same here 😅

[@NOTAFULLUN]

Thanks for showing us this Clive. My hat is doffed. You are a gift to the likes of me, who has always wanted to understand electronics, but never had the time or ability to pick this up from books. Your method of showing us works brilliantly. Thank you so much.

[@jimsmindonline]

Merry Christmas! Looking forward to that electron theory, always makes me confused when you realise electrons flow the opposite way to current.

[@edwinmerritt8543]

I have been working in the electrical/electronics for over 63 years and your videos are the best in all detailes m

[@PixelOutlaw]

I'd enjoy seeing him solder together one of those matrix of LED cubes. I could watch that soldering technique for quite a while.

[@JerryEricsson]

You ever have one of those BELLS IN THE HEAD moments? Just had one where the bridge rectifier finally rang the bell and made complete sense. I always had problems seeing exactly how they worked even though I have made a few of them and they work great. Suddenly as you were explaining it, it all made sense. You make a great teacher, thanks much.

[@ketutwiadnyana2610]

My favorite approach is to use "capacitor dropper" method (as in your video) but with two LEDs in parallel and opposite directions. This allows current to flow in both directions and you can get rid of the bridge rectifier. The only drawback is that now you have to deal with more photons than you originally need but then again these are not photon torpedoes; it is OK. :)

[@altvamp]

Um, isn't that the same as using a single diode - half wave rectification?

[@tahakhan88]

This single video has taught and inspired me to start experimenting and learning electronics even though I had no prior knowledge of electronics; I remember a few fundamental laws of electricity from high school 15 years back.

[@mikecowen6507]

Clive! You failed to put the neon directly across the line. That's often MUCH more exciting as the wire leads vaporize. Follow up video!! Perhaps for New Year's, we can find a 1uF/50v electrolytic in that same spot?

[@FABStudios]

Hi Clive, I absolutely love your videos. You have taught me so much, I hope you can get some time to do the video on electron theory as you mentioned here. You can explain stuff so well and i would love to hear you explain it all in a language that we all can so enjoy and learn from.

[@CarltonDodd]

Super knowledge-rich episode! Thanks, Clive! Dark-Emitting Diodes, for areas that are a bit too bright.

[@rexpimplemyer3839]

These informational videos are very much appreciated. I dropped out of general electronics in favor of modular computer work years ago, so a refresher was definitely in order.

[@LMcI01]

It's really annoying when the really bright blue LEDs are used as indicators. i usually end up covering them with black insulation tape

[@spudhead169]

Yeah, they are really mega bright, my USB 3.0 hub has a ridiculously obnoxious blue power LED that casts a blue ring on my ceiling which is really annoying. I was thinking of cracking it open and dimming it or replacing it with something less powerful, but just went with your solution of covering it with black tape. It's still visible through that.

[@RobertSzasz]

Ano Neko A couple layers of white vinyl tape dims and diffuses those LEDs nicely

[@eigenvector7035]

Blue LEDs are my pet peeve. Every goddamn thing from china has blue LEDs. I usually end up crushing them or replacing with red, green or orange. That blue color is so harsh for the eyes.

[@SuperPickle15]

My computer case had a blue led for the hdd indicator... It was so bright, it lit up my room... FInally replaced it with a green one, so much better

[@44R0Ndin]

IMO it doesn't matter what color the LED is. If they're not using diffused LED's running at like 5ma, it's going to be pretty annoying to be in the same room with when you're trying to sleep or watch a movie. I use manila file folders. You can still see the LED light (and what color it is), but it diffuses the light so it won't cast shadows, and it knocks down the intensity to an acceptable level. So for your typical obnoxious blue LED it turns it from an intense blue point, to a much softer, dimmer blue glow. All it takes is some scotch tape, file folder, and a pair of scissors.

[@regpollock9403]

Thank you BigClive one of the best (for me) videos I have seen about LEDs and resistors. Looking forward for your longer video. Maybe I can retain more.

[@eirikmurito]

Dude you should be in some kind of soldering tournament your skills are amazing!

[@rodmongodwood]

no they are not. pretty standard work for someone who is soldering for decades :D8

[@eirikmurito]

oh

[@user-yw8sr3uj1w]

@@rodmongodwood youre just cheerful arent ya

[@jimadams2473]

Very good instructional video. Liked how you showed several variations of the LED across the mains. The capacitor example was quite interesting. Thanks!!

[@Tink-GB]

Just what I was wanting for XMAS. Need to replace an ancient AC 8v 30mA Radio lamp (backlighting the frequency board) with an orange LED or something else...just want to keep it looking aesthetically correct but technically updated. Thank you

[@bigclivedotcom]

You can easily run some LEDs on an 8V supply. You may even be able to get a 12V LED lamp in the same base that fits right in and glows bright enough on 8V to do the job.

[@phonotical]

I must have come back to this video at least 30 times in the last six months, it never gets old

[@android61242]

Your videos are super comfy.

[@eirikmurito]

ikr

[@julesverne6287]

Bob Builder I like to put on my giant rain jacket and watch them as if I was there looking at Clive making things

[@budove58]

Im so glad I found your channel. You explained the full bridge rectifier perfectly. Thank you! I can now say i understand the concept thanks to you. Wow, really, I learned so much from this video.

[@eurobum2012]

That was a very practical video. Thank you! So which is your preferred method for implementing a high side LED indicator, Clive? I'm guessing the capacitive dropper w/full wave rectifier.

[@phils4634]

Happy Christmas from Down Under! Thank you for another year of excellent (and in-missable) electronic entertainment (and education!) We are all looking forward to your "programme" for 2017!

[@billyproctor9714]

Thank you Clive for the video. I found it humorous that you should mention about the Neo. getting less bright but lasting longer. That indicates to me, that there is hope for me as I find myself getting less bright as I age, now 65, so maybe I'm destined to live to a very old age? Any thoughts? All the best to you and yours, Billy

[@tyvole2387]

You too, huh? That makes me feel better already.

[@bills7115]

Excellent video. I'm putting together a power supply as a winter project, using Chinese boost and buck converters plus a DPS 5015 adjustable control unit. Got the internals somewhat figured out so it was time for all the lights and switches on the outside. I figure if you build something like this may as well have lots of lights. Lights have been my thing since I was born. This video helped a lot and just about perfect timing. Thank you very much.

[@SonOfFurzehatt]

I like this - The Big Clive Christmas Lecture.

[@StellaFoxxie]

watching this with auto generated subtitles is so great because every time clive says "neon" it comes up with a different word

[@MichaelBeeny]

The stability of neons depend to a large extent on how parallel the electrodes are inside the bulb. The more un parallel the electrodes, the more unstable is the discharge. Kinda ironic that the less care in manufacturing, the more unstable they are but the more flicker (candle like) they are. So Chinese ones are probably best!

[@enoz.j3506]

You putting an LED straight across the mains reminded me when i was around 11 y old,i put a 6v bulb across the mains,boy did that go bang,the glass exploded literally.But 49 years on and ive had a great career being an electronics engineer.Good vide Clive.

[@SGM260190]

How do you tell the difference between the similarly coloured LEDs of differing technology just by looking at them (not powered)? Is it just from using them for such a long time?

[@justinpatterson7700]

Possibly color of the plastic, the older ones appear to be darker colored, but I could be wrong

[@ProfStuartHalliday]

They do have a slightly more conical shape. But for safety be aware of where you buy the LEDs from as they should tell you.

[@Mentorcase]

My test block arrived today and gave it a jolly good going over and I love it, should have bought one many years ago, to those thinking they are great but too expensive, do yourself a favour and just buy it you won't regret it after the first time you use it and it will outlast yourself.

[@neodonkey]

Well now I know where dark energy is coming from. The universe is filled with all the old blown LEDs thrown away from parallel dimensions.

"Dark emitting diode" :'D It's small details like this that make this channel the best there is. Not fancy interviews, CADs and overly complex projects.

[@JamesCoyle95]

What if you use one of those bicolor LEDs to eliminate flicker? Only issue is the color changes every half wave but it would likely blend together in a way that looks nicer than the standard on-off cycle.

[@slymind4919]

or induce seizures lol

[@b2048_]

@@slymind4919 Won't induce seizures at 50/60Hz. LED lights flicker at that speed, aim a camera at a mains power one.

[@dennis8196]

He did this in a previous video

[@SunilAruldas]

I think the bicolour LEDs have one lead in common so they cannot be used this way

[@stilgen16]

Clive, please make that huge video you mentioned. To be honest, I have nearly no understanding of such things, yet I watch every video you release. I long to understand!

[@l9day]

really looking forward to the beer-fueled electricity basics video. It's frustrating that I understand some bits of circuitry, largely due to this channel, but I don't really get any of the fundamentals.

[@PetrFaitl]

Thanks for this video. I wish I had you as a teacher for my electronics classes. Perhaps I'd remember a bit more than I do, as your explanations are much clearer, than the dry descriptive theory we used to get. 🤷🏼‍♂️

[@sarahclark5447]

Hi bigC, What would happen if you used the neon tube in series with the 120k ohm resistance, would the light emitting diode illuminant and the neon tube? would it stop the light dancing in the neon tube as it won't be alternating electricity since the light emitting diode will stop the electricity it does not pass like the + or the -. I could be very good at this stuff bigC, obviously, I wouldn't be able to actually do it, however, I would be able to talk like I could (talking is my strength my dad said.) that will so annoy the boys in my class. Anyway, I won’t be talking with you until after Christmas now, as I am finishing off making myself a dress for a party that my dad said I may go too. I didn’t think he would fall for the bit about the party being in the oap’s home. I will be in so much trouble when he finds out. Happy Christmas Big C. Sarah.

[@bigclivedotcom]

Hi Sarah, you could put an LED in series with a neon and resistor and they would both light. If a series diode was added they would both still light, but just one of the two electrodes in the neon lamp would glow.

[@paulthomas5290]

What a sweet little girl Sarah is. I bet she is a live wire at school! .

[@5roundsrapid263]

Sarah Clark if I were a boy in your class, I wouldn't be angry; I'd be impressed. I'd want to be friends.

[@JohnHessGA]

One of my favorite Big Clive Videos. I find this relaxing... and cheaper than therapy.

[@zx8401ztv]

Oh have a smashing christmas clive :-D

[@ronniepirtlejr2606]

Thank you for going through all of these different possibilities Big Clive.👍

[@1marcelfilms]

a rectifier and capacitor over the led is the best

[@coloradostrong]

Excellent. For conserving power on a water heater for showers, I used 2 LED nightlights as indicator lamps. Purchased from Dollar Tree, I took them apart and wired 1 to the mains on the water heater indicating when it is turned on, and the other is wired to the heating element indicating when it is heating. When the 1 LED on the heating element goes out, the water is sufficiently hot for a shower. After a shower, I turn the water heater off from the mains breaker, and a quick glance at the water heater shows it is off. No sense in the thing keeping water constantly hot if I do not use it. They pull a lot of power as you know. The LED's have an inline resistor and the diode across the LED as you show here.

[@km5405]

haha now its a DED - dark emitting diode

[@terciops]

Excellent video Clive, not only interesting to most, but lots of good teaching points too. You really should expand this idea to teach basic electronics in an 'as you go' with gratis visual tips for safety and soldering technique. Very well done..

[@jrotten1982]

Where did you get the Chinese LED tester?

[@richardturton6900]

John Robinson £2 to £3 on eBay but don't that any notice of the marked currents.

[@jjk-9]

uk ebay www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-Portable-LED-Tester-Battery-Operated-2-to-150mA-/290935206840?hash=item43bd16f3b8:g:OeEAAMXQL99SblNb £1.50 - £6

[@starsunwanted]

John Robinson I got one just like it off Amazon.

[@melgross]

I’ve been watching you for some time now, and you do this better than anyone else. Your wry sense of humor makes a big difference. I can laugh on my way to understanding.

[@jani140]

we should add a wiki article about the founder of the DED. Or should we say DEaD? :-D

[@bigclivedotcom]

It's not me though. The term DED has been around for a while.

[@NeneExists]

bigclivedotcom - I prefer SEDs (Smoke Emitting Diode) and LERs (Light Emitting Resistor)

[@Stoneman06660]

Five years after posting, this video turns up on my recommended just when I'm looking at a solution to this sort of problem! Bravo algo!

[@Stoneman06660]

Worked like a champ, too! Salvaged X2 cap and a little protoboard; one power indicator light for a 240 V slayer exciter variant sorted. Cheers, fella!

[@tonybaines3332]

how do you know what type the led is ' gallium etc

[@ProfStuartHalliday]

Presumably from the Supplier when you order it?

[@PhilC184]

I like the idea of a dark emitting diode. Switch on the power and it sucks up all the light. :) Very informative, as always. LED's must have changed over the years, I recall back in the late 70's accidentally plugging in an LED instead of a neon on a piece of equipment and getting quite a nasty burn when the thing exploded.

[@BlockWorker]

Dark emitting diode... When you notice that the abbreviation for that is literally DED

[@AnthonyGoodley]

I love LED'S, especially the RGB LED'S. This video taught me a lot and covers part of what I've been wanting to learn. If you haven't already could you possibly make another video covering proper circuit design for high output LED's? I have some 1 watt white LED's and a few RGB LED's that are each rated for 3 - 9 watts all purchased from Adafruit. I'm more interested in using a DC power source for everything. Thank you for teaching me so much in your videos while be so entertaining at the same time.

[@Yemto]

If I was in the room during this video, I would be as far away as I can, since I have always seen the mains as something that would require big components and thick cables, without it burning up or arcing. So seeing this really amazes me.

[@saddle1940]

People tend to forget basic parts have fairly low breakdown voltages. The 250V for the resistor is one of the reasons I always spec in a string of at last three in any mains indicator or sensing circuit.

[@Catstorm99]

Great help thank you . I replaced a burnt out Neon in a mains adapter strip with the capacitive dropper and bridge. I used a 330k resistor which gave me 0.7ma for a blue LED and it was plenty bright enough as an indicator. Using the 1k one would have lit the room up at night lol. Thanks again.

[@SquareoftheyearFM]

A really informative, practical video Clive! Loved it. Helps us plebs understand more when it comes to some of the more complex videos.

[@gajananphadte3440]

You can also do it with two resistors in series. Connect the LED across the smaller value resistor designed so that the voltage across this resistor never exceeds the reverse voltage limit of the LED.

[@Scotty_in_Ohio]

+1 for "quite violent" and "visual dots in your eyes for quite a while". Big Clive you make even the most dry material quite entertaining.

[@g0fvt]

Clive, just a suggestion put a reasonable size capacitor across your full wave bridge driven LED, it will help kill the flicker plus help with inrush current from your series capacitor feed. Like a few other commenters I have to recommend the neon across the mains with no series resistor for maximum bang. When I was a kid I had some huge neons, it was interesting trying lower and lower value resistors until unwisely choosing none! One of my ancient Weller solder stations had no visual indicator, the LED I stuck on the 24v winding of the transformer (with a resistor) has been annoying me with it's strobing for 20 years or more.

[@marment4506]

Very nice demonstration of using LEDs on an AC application. Made up the 220K resistor and the 5 green LEDs (bridge rectifier and LED load). Works quite well with 115VAC 60hz and works perfectly on 115VAC 400hz Quite bright and steady. Much better than using the NEON bulb and 220K resistor that is a dull orange glow. Thank you so much for the information :)

[@patagualianmostly7437]

I have an old AEG Auto Washing Machine and the Neon "ON" light has finally given up the ghost.... after 30 years! (The machine works fine....did drum bearings twice , over the years....... But....Works great: "Made In Germany"!) So this is the solution I am going for......220vac here..... I had a feeling LED's could be used with mains but until this I never quite figured it out........ Cheers!

[@raptureboi]

Excellent video, as someone who doesn't know anything about these components I look forward to seeing your proposed video! I'd rather watch your videos then TV any day!

[@Ironic1950]

I have tried a couple of Vellman mains LED indicator kits, which have the necessary bits, and a little PCB...works good!

[@Graham_Wideman]

2021.... and it's getting increasingly difficult to get neon indicator lamps. The bulbs still available, but the indicator housing with lamp, more difficult and expensive. And annoyingly, on Amazon, the many many vendors of indicator lamps that actually contain LEDs insist on including the keyword "Neon" in the title or description. That trend makes this video all the more valuable.

[@samting2009]

Just love your vids. Only this evening I put a neon indicator on my off peak system to let me know when on or off. Then you have done a video and I now know I did the right thing!

[@joesmania]

Man oh man, I have to say.. You make soldering using only your 2 hands look so easy! It's just not fair at all !! I've recently been trying my hand at it, and it's not at all that simple holding everything still enough. Glad I found this particular vid as I've very recently been thinking how I'd like to put LEDs on a few (or maybe all) of my projects. I deal with a 110v supply, so it's especially fortunate that you've covered that. Thanks for All your vids tho, & keep taking them to bits, won't you! Cheers. J.S.

[@bigclivedotcom]

Soldering skills get better with practice.

[@MurdockWolf]

Clive, did you ever think about doing a basic tutorial series of electric stuff? On another note, you are pobably my favorite youtuber, even if I don't really get most of the technical stuff you are saying, keep making great content!

[@CurmudgeonExtraordinaire]

I ordered off from China for some of the nixie / neon bulbs that you showed in the first part of the video and they came in today. I had forgotten that you had put a resistor in series with it and gave it a try by just touching the leads to the open line voltage terminal blocks that I have on a test platform that I use for Arduino sensors and such. It definitely makes a nice arc -- it looked like I was arc welding. Figured that I had blown the bulb, so I looked at it under a 20x magnifying loope and it didn't look that bad, so I figured I would give it another try. Figured that if it arced again, it didn't burn up. I'm holding this bulb in a pair of forceps -- without any insulated handle. Yeah, maybe not that smart... Well, it stuck an arc again and my hand jerked back, it flew, and I then got to spend 15 minutes crawling around on a carpeted floor trying to find that little thing. And then I spend some time searching for this video again and see that I had forgotten about the resistor... Ooops...

[@Ratgibbon]

Clive to the rescue. I was trying to understand how the 24VAC digital inputs work on an old Carel pCO controller and with my rudimentary electronics knowledge I couldn't wrap my head around it. This video cleared it up for me. Basically the heart of it is an optocoupler, so practically an LED (on one side of the device anyhow). The rest on the input side of the coupler is what's in this video (they use the "one diode method" instead of a bridge rectifier, but the resistors and capacitors are there). Great content as always. 👍 *a fellow fridgie *

[@carlubambi5541]

Stick a couple diodes in series with the resistor to block the reverse flow. We are starting to install special switches now that tell you that the power is on on any phase in or out. So that people don't open machines or switches while they are energized. Good to see some of your older stuff. Great for my apprentices to see as well

[@Accumulator1]

Excellent video. side by side sketches and demos of different methods. I was wondering about the differences and which is best. Now I know. Thanks. Took a while to get used to and understand the accent of the commentary. I would like to see a video like this on building an indicator light for a low impedance pulsing fence charger.

[@youtubkeeper]

I now understand what a bridge rectifier is (how it works). Thank you for the simple explanation!

[@jonathantatler]

PLEASE do the electron theory video soon. You are a great teacher and I'm having a great time myself but wish to share it with my son!

[@hernancoronel]

Thank you Big Clive, after all the video my choice would be the one you didn’t inspected: jut one diode and the resistor + capacitor. That would make a cool add on video.

[@BrianPhillipsRC]

Bigclivedotcom - hey, FYI, I've clicked "subscribe" I think 2 times and Yahoo doesn't seem to want me to subscribe to your channel...any ideas? Great videos! Love the technical explanations. Very down to earth and understandable, even for those of us who havn't seen Ohms law since college!

[@alanwoods4925]

Excellent demonstration. Capacitors would likely be more expensive than resistors, but I prefer them in AC circuits. An LED is designed to function between 20mA and 30mA and will present a fixed voltage drop, say 5 volts. A resistor of a given value will pass a given amount of current based on the voltage across it. (ohms law) This is fine if the voltage is stable, such as those likely to be found on a DC supply. Mains voltage can be a bit more variable. A cap of a given value, however, will pass a given amount of current based on the AC frequency without regard for the volt across it. The LED will drop its design voltage while the voltage drop across the cap will drop the rest of the voltage and fluctuate as needed. Using a bridge rectifier, as @bigclivedotcom demonstrated will still work. Even better, another cap parallel with the LED will smooth the pulsing DC and reduce the amount of flicker.

[@tbdc60]

A voltage divider (resistor ladder) is another great approach that intrinsically limits short circuit current and resistor heat dissipation.

[@tubastuff]

There are bi-color 2-leaded LEDs also--essentially 2 LEDs paralleled reversed polarity. I would suspect that a single dropping resistor or cap would suffice for an AC mains indicator with these--and do away with the need for extra diodes. The red-green combinations yield a nice yellow on AC.

[@thomasseibold4055]

Thanks for an educational video, but ultimately I decided the quickest and easiest way to power an indicator LED for my 110VAC project was to modify a small wall converter I no longer use, which puts out a steady 5 VDC.

[@workhardism]

Do you ever use a breadboard to save time and all that soldering? Not that I'm complaining, I enjoy watching you solder. You have good technique.

[@condew6103]

This video achieves your goal of covering pilot lights, but while talking about neons, I'd add one more circuit, a neon lamp based relaxation oscillator easily built with a diode, a higher resistance, and a capacitor across the neon.

[@longrunner258]

The other reason (which you didn't mention in the video) why the reverse parallel shunt diode is needed with a gallium nitride (or indium gallium nitride) LED, even with the series rectifier, is because of voltage spikes on the mains, which may exceed the rating of the rectifier (1kV for the 1N4007 as shown). Those small cylindrical bridge rectifiers start to look more attractive...

[@petehiggins33]

My experience of neon mains indicators, especially in things like kettles and mains extension blocks, is that they don't last forever. On the contrary after a few years they become intermittent or so dim that they are useless. They often go into a state where they remain dark until you shine a light on them and then they light up. I have read somewhere (probably on the interweb, so it must be true) that neon indicators rely on being hit by some energetic particle (cosmic rays?) each mains cycle in order to strike the discharge.