Inside a huge faulty Poundland lamp

[@Ea-Nasir_Copper_Co]

"You can fast forward if you don't want to see the carnage" We're here for the carnage!

[@johnikey38]

"You can fast forward if you dont want to see the carnage" = reminds me of my life in the '70s. Whew, lucky to survive.🤯

[@thomaswilliams2273]

Also I'm here for the rambling interlude.

[@AlexanderWright1]

Clive's camera always works perfectly. It knows what will happen if it stops working.

[@rogerclevenger8588]

Clive's avalanche reference made me smile. "Crapslide" is my word for when a stack of my possessions collapses.

[@gerrybvr]

Seems somehow appropriate to get a lighthouse style lamp from a fisherman.

[@stepheneyles2198]

I think he was using it as a lure to attract fish!! ;-)

[@whitesapphire5865]

I don't think, somehow, that the light would shine far out to sea, plus, I can't imagine Trinity House approving such an unreliable light source as LEDs. Interesting thought though!

[@travisash8180]

Is Clive a fisherman's friend ?

[@Thermalions]

@@travisash8180 Well for some, Clive is probably an acquired taste.

[@pypes84]

It looks a lot like the lamps the squid fishing boats use in terms of size and shape.

[@scottwilcoxson2439]

The unreasonable force and mortal danger are why I watch these videos. Clive never fails to deliver! Strangely, I seem to be learning things as well.

[@mistermeaargee2670]

Does anyone remember when certain cans of food used to have a key and used Clive's intrusion methods to open them?

[@ConstantlyDamaged]

Yup. Corned beef and off-brand spam cans were the most recent I remember seeing with the old key-tab-strip openers.

[@zh84]

You could still get corned beef cans like that a few years ago. After cutting myself grievously on the murderously sharp edge of a tin I swore never to buy one again. You can get corned beef sliced in nice soft plastic packages now.

[@dcallan812]

@@ConstantlyDamaged mmmm span fritters 😘👌

[@farmersteve129]

@@zh84 cheaper by the tin & generally moister than the pre sliced cardboard.

[@zh84]

@@farmersteve129 my Dad doesn't mind once I've fried it and turned into hash.

[@disophisis]

I always enjoy watching the disassembly. I've always been good at taking things apart, especially if destroying it is part of the goal.

[@LAGoodz]

Clive, thank you. When I’ve had a hellish day working in the City of London, I come home, have dinner, kick back, relax and listen to and watch your wonderful calming videos. Thank you for all you do. You’re are my Prozac alternative! 😉

[@RobertBeck-pp2ru]

When I tune to Clives channel, I already know I will learn how little I do know, and how much more I need to know. He is one of the best on KZbin.

[@chrishartley1210]

Once I've "got into" metal shrouds etc I tend to use a pair of long nosed pliers to peel back the rest of the metal, it avoids cutting pieces off with the sharp jaws of the snips. Of course, that would typically be on bottles of wine or whisky rather than light bulbs, it's easy to accidentally slide your hand along the sharp edges when a large portion of the contents have been consumed.

[@tubastuff]

How about a small dremel with a metal-cutting abrasive disc? Or a jeweler's frame saw?

[@Thermalions]

@@tubastuff They'd probably create metal filings, which might not be ideal.

[@acidhelm]

What an absolute unit.

[@dcallan812]

The bulb is nice too. . 🤣🤣 👍

[@georgeprout42]

@@dcallan812 The lamp looks good. Some of my bulbs have started sprouting.

[@brandgrandreal]

@@georgeprout42 be careful. After sprouting they might bite!

[@sirseriously]

​@@georgeprout42 I've never understood the propensity of people feeling superior while feigning ignorance of others' dialects.

[@Sportage5603]

Big chungus lamp

[@fategamingandhighlights]

The interesting thing about your channel Clive is that I always see things I have never seen before

[@hobbesip1]

Commercial products are multifaceted. I kind of like these where Clive is a little baffled. It's very interesting watching him try to work through these circuits and explain what he thinks the designers are trying to do. And just love the postmortem mysteries.

[@jasonkmec1589]

The SM2425PSAN is a P channel mosfet in an sot23-3 package, with a chip marking of the format B25XX (where XX indicates lot #). I'll admit it's a stretch, but kinda makes sense what with pfets commonly being used for high side switching. Also, I hate to ask for more from Clive, but having pin numbers on the mystery chip schematic makes identification attempts much more fruitful ;)

[@channelsixtysix066]

Your post-mortem analyses are always both entertaining and interesting. Pity this globe can't easily be salvaged, without breaking the glass envelope.

[@danielconlon2388]

Love when the video says uploaded 54 seconds ago while the comments are from loyal fans a month previous 😊 The only reason I joined yt premium the moment it was available. I always thought Bigclive and Ave should have a few beers and take stuff to bits in the same video together

[@bigclivedotcom]

Yeah, I've got way too far ahead with videos. I'm going to have to tame down a bit - but there's just so much stuff to take to bits.

[@dragonrider4253]

Timed exclusives. Content creators can lock videos behind the "join button" subscription. This video was likely uploaded about a month ago, but us plebeians didn't get to see it until now. I freaking hate how every content creator is locking stuff behind paywalls now. I miss the old internet when that shit wasn't an option.

[@ghostkhadaji]

​@@dragonrider4253I'm happy to enable Clive to get more cookies (he likes cookies).

[@danielconlon2388]

@@bigclivedotcom I wasn't criticizing your work big bear. Sincerely a fan of your videos. Continue going the way you are. In order for fairness I don't use patreon etc as believe yt premium gives a fair share to all creators I enjoy while keeping myself budget conscious. I was only pointing out I was ( possibly) the first comment on the general public side. Plenty of KZbinrs do the same and it's never an issue for me. Keep up the great work 👍

[@bigclivedotcom]

@@dragonrider4253 All my videos get released progressively every second day, and as always are free to view. Before I started using Patreon they simply sat in a short queue. The primary reason I use Patreon is because of the high risk of censorship that affects all technical channels due to the militant Karen's reporting everything technical as being dangerous. Patreon is a safety net that means if my channel gets blocked or deleted then I can still make and share videos with Patreons via another platform.

[@RODALCO2007]

Like opening a can of corned beef. Disassembly and circuit analyses is always perfectly executed. Thanks Clive.

[@mysock351C]

My recollection of these from the one I was messing with, now that I think about it, was that the capacitor still charged in the usual manner of a saw tooth near the crests of the sinewave. But when there was sufficient voltage headroom, it would basically act more as a constant current source above a certain line voltage, and progressively lop the top of the charging peaks off more and more to maintain a set voltage across the LEDs (based on the LED current). So rather than a sawtooth waveform when looking at the drop across the fusible resistor, it looked more like it was clipping sort of like an amplifier when its overdriven. This helped spread out the conduction angle a bit. The downside is that it requires a certain load to work properly. Below that, it doesn't regulate at all and the voltage just rides the peak mains voltage when the difference in voltage becomes too small (i.e. reducing the current thru the LEDs). The capacitor will simply charge up to the peak mains voltage, and it wont have any headroom to regulate. The light will still work, but there will be more flicker since the voltage isn't regulated. Edit: The one I had was not dimmable, though, so it was a bit simpler.

[@alanmckeeve2695]

I have the slimmer one with the same workings, I took the board out to see if I could turn it down but as you can see it's quite "busy" and all the IC data sheets were in Chinese so I left it and put it back together, I used the base from an old CFL light with bayonet fitting, the power factor on mine is a full one, and I'm pleased that you have done this one.

[@bigclivedotcom]

If it's the same circuitry it may be suited to dimming down with a series capacitor.

[@alanmckeeve2695]

Thanks.

[@spacebus]

I "think" the B2501 may be a high-side resettable efuse similar to a Littlefuse LS0504EVT233 but with way higher ratings. If the nearby capacitor were wired out (orange) to ground (yellow) instead of self to out in the diagram, that'd be my guess as to what the mystery chip is.

[@WinterCedar]

I don't know anything about electronics, but I love getting high and watching your videos, clive. Love from the great lakes

[@sbcinema]

I have always dissolved the lamp cement by soaking it in water it is not ideal for modern electronic lamps as they need to dry afterwards, but it has always worked to get the lamp separated from the base.

[@samk4128]

Which would also explain how water is able to get into lamps.

[@sbcinema]

@@samk4128 ;-)

[@patomahony9747]

Still if it works a great way to reassemble, if one were so inclined.Thinking Clive was a little bit miffed , in this case that it would not appear to be an option.

[@ecospider5]

So naturally talking about a death beam. That was great.

[@Netbug]

Got a glimpse of the thumbnail while scrolling and thought Photonicinduction was posting again.

[@Blade-420]

the glass envelope from that Bulb /Lamp would make a very interesting Terrarium or even be used for a ship in a bottle. or a decorative Vase. the possibilities could be endless.

[@johnikey38]

Yes, Clive could build an LED ship in a bottle!

[@Blade-420]

Agree! 😀

[@patomahony9747]

That would be interesting. The leds creating a “ Saint Elmo’s fire” effect on the rigging

[@chuckthetekkie]

Even though I'm in the US, I have a few Walmart LED bulbs that only lasted maybe a month or so before going into Disco mode then into dead mode. I'd love to send them to you for an autopsy report and future video if you are interested. I love your videos.

[@zh84]

8:55 "jutter" as a combination of "jitter" and "stutter" is an excellent word! ;-)

[@dragonrider4253]

That lamp globe looks like it was originally used for a high power discharge lamp. A 1000 watt HPS lamp that's found along highways perhaps? (The very tall ones with 4 to 10 lamp enclosures.)

[@dogwalker666]

That's what I thought.

[@mikescarlett4704]

"Significant Carnage" Narrative of the Day, Love it, Yet another Fabulous Adventure,👋🤣 Keep the Excellence up. 🎶🕊️🎶

[@blacklisted4885]

Those are always such good prints! I wonder if he uses a fancy printer? Must be proper photopaper. The colour is super realistic

[@bigclivedotcom]

Good lighting, Epson ecotank and cheap bulk photo paper.

[@randacnam7321]

Dumet wire is short for 'dual metal' in reference to the copper plating on a nickel steel alloy with the same thermal expansion characteristics as the glass into which it is sealed, so it is properly pronounced "doo mett" as opposed to the French sounding "doo may." Also, you could fix the broken electrical connection in the stem press with a wire tipped with conductive epoxy. Soldering a wire into one end of a thin ferrule and filling the ferrule with conductive epoxy which then goes over the broken wire is another probably less fiddly option.

[@Dreddy72]

so the dumet wire doomed it. sounds fitting.

[@patomahony9747]

Had been thinking along lines of the olden days of repairing heated rear window elements with conductive paint. Was not aware there was conductive epoxy. Thanks

[@otroflores91]

​@@patomahony9747 learned something new myself.

[@mernokimuvek]

You could also use the lamp from a high voltage high frequency power supply like a flyback transformer or Tesla coil. That way you can use it with a single wire and capacitive coupling.

[@KallePihlajasaari]

Perhaps some jewellery repair business would be interested to try and see if a laser welder could work through the glass.

[@mernokimuvek]

From my experience faulty LED lamps still work near a plasma ball, flyback transformer or Tesla coil. Some high quality LED bulbs are filled with helium oxygen mixture for thermal conductivity to keep the LED strings cool. They make great plasma lamps.

[@joelmurphy9369]

I have what looks like the same 'smaller schnips' with the blue handles. The side cutters. They are quite reliable.

[@Kenoscope]

You Syrr... are very fun to listen to.

[@blitzroehre1807]

How come Clive not using a Dremel to safely open lamp base? The shape of the glass bulb is much like those older Hi-power Mercury vapour and early Sodium lamps

[@Aco747lyte]

I remember when argon gas was used for lightbulbs. How far we have come on since! Another amazing vid from you, Clive. The disassembly was fun to watch, minus quality swearing. 😉

[@keeperofthegood]

Hey Clive, the way lapidary does cabochons, they embed the irregular rock in plaster then cut. The plaster is soft and easy to clean off the thin slices of stone following.

[@diffmull]

Have you seen the bulbs that have 3 power settings? You toggle the power quickly and the brightness goes down one level. Perhaps the extra chip is for that.

[@mrrooter601]

that's cool

[@benbaselet2026]

I have had one of those smart bulbs as a night reading light for a number of years. Works really well.

[@mc_cpu]

I have a dimmable LED bulb like that. You toggle it quickly on, off and on again and then it starts slowly fading up and down, you turn it off when you get the the desired brightness. Then finally turn it on again to use the light. It works, but it would probably spoil the mood of a romantic evening ☺️

[@benbaselet2026]

@@mc_cpu Oh that's fancy. Mine just does max-mid-low brightness.

[@shaunclarke94]

It would need a capacitor to store the memory though.

[@benaerialsbedford]

"Fast forward if you don't want to see the carnage" Clive, the carnage is why I come here.... 👀

[@yadabub]

My method for limiting destruction when accessing the power supplies of this type of lamp, is to carefully use a hacksaw to cut around just above the screw threads. As you're working with very thin metal, a thin blade can be used, which will help with reassembly. When reassembling, just solder the cut back together. If the gap is too large because your cutting was sloppy, or your saw blade was too thick, use fine stranded wire(insulation removed) wrapped around within the gap, to bridge the gap and add strength to the joint. It's best to tack the screw on first with a few small joints, then solder in segments, so you can check for alignment before the seam has been fully sealed. If your seam has grown too wide when you're done, due to the solder's flow, just use a razor knife to trim the excess.

[@darronjknight]

You may be able to get to the inside using diamond files or sharpening rods. Also cheap diamond hole saws work surprisingly well.

[@HelmutDoork]

That looks like an updated version of the old hanging street light bulbs from the 20's-30's. I think some people buy the street light fixtures then convert them to fit a modern bulb. So this bulb gives the appearance of an original bulb while using a lot less voltage. Bulbs at that time were incandescent. I read that early on they ran them in series, 2000v spread out so that each light received about 50w. I'm not sure when they was switched over to parallel circuitry, historical technical information on that seems a bit sparse online. The house I grew up in the 70's had the last one of these street lights in the entire town. The town must have had an old supply of the bulbs as they'd come and replace it whenever the bulb burnt out. It did not provide a lot of light, it provided just the right amount. You could see well enough but it was not glarey. The town must have run out of the bulbs because one day it got replaced by a new street light with a hideous orange glare that shone right into my room even with the shade down. I always hated that light and missed the old one.

[@nerys71]

WIsh we had poundland type places here in the US. would love to get cheap bulbs like that !!

[@tombexhill]

The mystery component is the brand new DRM chips for household goods your friends licence expired so the lamp destroyed itself 💀.😂

[@Agent24Electronics]

Sssssh don't give them ideas....

[@bigclivedotcom]

That could work. A MOSFET and non volatile counter.

[@GeorgeFoot]

Those photos of the damaged circuit board look like arty CD labels

[@BRUXXUS]

I had a Philips LED bulb die a few days ago, first of like a dozen that have been running for a few years. I popped the bulb off and tried getting the PCB out and managed to slip and the lamp... cup, thing where the diffuser was managed to cut one of my right knuckles and and stab a small hole into my left thumb. 😂. Even after trying to break more stuff free I have no idea how to get the aluminum top out where the little PCB was stuck down.

[@dang1099]

Clive, you fumbling around with that blade had my anxiety through the roof man.

[@wisher21uk]

Brilliant Clive very interesting I think I will take a trip to Poundland later 😊

[@bigclivedotcom]

I've not seen these bulbs for a while. But some may still have them.

[@wisher21uk]

@@bigclivedotcom thanks Clive it will be worth a look 😁

[@gtretroworld]

I have this lamp and i wasn’t aware it was dimmable…great channel btw👍

[@bigclivedotcom]

I doubt that it's a good idea to dim it.

[@gtretroworld]

@@bigclivedotcom you’re probably right on looking at what is in side of it…have a subscribe anyway as your channel is ace.

[@opapagaio15]

"Faulty lamp much more interesting than the working one" - Clive (and me) summed in in one phrase!

[@BPantherPink]

Great analysis...Sherlock 🥰

[@jaykay3080]

Keep showing the carnage Clive, it's as enlightening as the circuitry stuff 😁

[@Headcase0570]

Would you consider doing a video on what makes cheap USB chargers give off a high-pitch sound all the time? And maybe on how to tell if a charger is of a good quality build?

[@dogwalker666]

Quite often it's the high frequency inductor not being fully potted, soaking in varnish sometimes cures it.

[@bigclivedotcom]

Sone have cheap noisy transformers, but a common issue is a more audible noise when charging is complete and the unit is in standby just topping up its output capacitor.

[@Headcase0570]

@Matt Quinn - Caledonian TV I must have missed that one, could you link it?

[@GrizzLeeAdams]

Here in the states we still have incandescents that size sold at Tractor Supply, though every one I've seen on the shelf has very noticeable broken filaments.

[@h-leath6339]

Sooo.. 1: from the thumbnail I thought it was a 400W HID lamp. 2: I've not ever seen that size of decorative envelope before! So unwieldly large for a medium base. 3: You had to resort to destructive disassembly. They made that puzzle box pretty well then eh? Always fun man. Thanks!

[@G7OEA]

Watching you peel the lamp base open shows a man who has worked with Mineral Insulated cables.

[@bigclivedotcom]

Lots and lots of pyrotenax mineral insulated cable work.

[@scratchdog2216]

Cool. Looks like a MV bulb. Big screw base and tube inside would complete the look.

[@RK-kn1ud]

It does look like that(possible) poor connection is directly in the vicinity of the electrolytic cap. I'm thinking it cooked the capacitor internally from the heat.

[@hullinstruments]

Always coming across dozens of these at the local scrap yard. But not the LED version just the old original boring version. It takes a massive fixture, transformer, and several big capacitors in each fixture. I'd say the fixture transformer, and hardware alone way 30 or 40 lbs. They're always around, and whenever they come in they usually come in dozens at a time I guess when they're updating something. Also a good source of a big piece of high temperature plate glass

[@davewise001]

That sounds more like a mercury arc rectifier than a lamp.

[@tactileslut]

Mercury vapor, perhaps, from a school gym or retail parking lot. The bulbs have a very long service life, somewhere around 70 years. The EPA outlawed import of the ballasts, even the new electronic ones, so it's become a fix it or lose it thing. Of course grandpa left a spare.

[@Agent24Electronics]

@@tactileslut Forced to replace your 70 year lamps with LED trash that'll barely last 7 years...? Yeah that'll help the environment.

[@bigclivedotcom]

The mercury discharge lamps were commonly used in high bay lighting in warehouses, steel mills and factories.

[@ikan12580]

The carnage adds to the high quality of this video! Love it!

[@yesyes_uk]

It's almost as if they added positions for 2 different regulators and only meant to populate one OR the other.

[@petersage5157]

Came for the electronics. Stayed for the carnage.

[@djbare9]

I think one of your other videos might answer what the mystery component might be, you showed a circuit of a Dubai lamp where the LEDS only operated within the low ripple region of the smoothed DC.

[@richard0crewe]

Saw the giant light bulb and thought it was photonic induction, then saw "Poundland"... "ahh, Big Clive"

[@Lilithe]

I love how when Clive draws the LED symbols, it looks like =3 face

[@matbillings2533]

sweet baby jeebus that thing is huge!

[@MrAnderson4509]

Clive, when you introduce a tungsten dimmer to one of those COBed things, it has about three trigger points where the lamp changes brightness with jitters on the way up to full scale elimination, I've heard it ringing through the condensers sometimes squeals and groans from the lamp also. Typically this new type of lamp does not like the old-school dimmer. It might be worth comparing the new dimmer design with a new working version of the LED, seems to me the the bulb opperation runs two long "filaments" in series over about 120 dc in this country. 3 or four sets of 2 in series, circuit should compare well with smaller bulb with adjustment to 240. Also, our LEDs like that have no vacuum in side, the are vented from outside air to inner chamber though the tiny pipette that supports the cheesy spot welded support system in side the lamp. Another weird thing I noticed about those was that they still had the red junction through the pinch around the power wires of glass.... I thought I learned years ago that that was only needed because of the temperature of the tungsten filament, as that junction suffered breakage otherwise and then lights out.... might be worth a look Clive. Thank you as always for your videos, top notch.👍👍👍

[@randacnam7321]

That red layer is the copper plating on a nickel steel alloy wire that has the same thermal expansion characteristics as the glass it is sealed into. Using wire with different thermal expansion characteristics risks either breaking the glass if the wire expands more upon heating than the glass or the formation of an annulus betwixt the glass and wire if the wire expands less. This annulus compromises the lamp internal atmosphere and will result in failure unless the lamp atmosphere isn't critical for operation (dual envelope halogen and filament LED lamps usually). And even then, there can be problems iffen the halogen lamp depends on an inert atmosphere to prevent seal oxidation or the LED lamp uses a high thermal conductivity hydrogen or helium gas fill for LED cooling.

[@mrfrog8502]

10:45 This capacitor is there more for 'loop stability ' than absorption of spikes. This chip is analog electronics after all. Probably with some op amps inside.

[@kwinterburn]

To reattach the wire get some stranded mains wire say 1mmsq cut and flatten the end and open out the strands with a wire, then you can shove the wire in the end of the snapped wire if it will fit inside , you flatten the end to give space inside

[@Ripleigh]

anybody who fast forwards past the carnage doesn't belong here... we love your content BigClive... I can honestly say I've never fast forwarded or bailed from any of your videos... thats an impressive track record for my ADHD needs lol 😅

[@criggie]

"Skip the carnage" ???? We're HERE for the carnage !

[@mitchyk]

I can just see the paramedics report when you inevitably slice something like an artery doing this "disassembly". lol "On arrival we found a male subject with a pair of side cutters embedded in his wrist ranting about his not being able to find his x-ray hammer. We safely assumed it wasn't in his wrist. He had lost a considerable amount of blood at this point so that was the likely cause for his ranting. On admission to hospital he wanted us to assure his fans he was doing well." lol

[@davsan5329]

Even more mysterious is Churchill making an appearance at 12:54

[@wayne7939]

Though you might have extracted the led filaments from the globe . Set up a tungsten cutter and rotate the lamp scoring a line far enough up the globe. Then tap the score "should" break clean to remove the filament array, rather than just smashing the globe , probably would fracture the led filaments.

[@markedis5902]

Why the extra diode? The multi regulator setup isn’t uncommon in decorative dimmable fittings as the dimming compatibility can screw around with the regulator causing a tuned circuit leading to thermal runaway. Stacking regulators is a cheap way to fix this. I know this exists in some fittings (rhymes with grillips) I originally thought that the one I looked at was designed around whatever parts they had a glut of but stacking regulators allegedly changes their impedance.

[@TerryLawrence001]

I bet contacts from those "molex" sockets you use for led fairy lights can be pushed up the glass hollow and onto the filament stub where the weld broke.

[@bigclivedotcom]

That might work.

[@65bug519]

I was in the market for some decorative oversize lamps and I was at Ikea looking at theirs, however non of the Ikea lamps are dimmable.

[@StrawDragon]

I thought you were going to draw a naughty picture Clive!

[@brianallen9810]

OMG That thing is humongous ! But Clive, we like to see the carnage. I wonder what it's actually made for, perhaps a lighthouse.

[@bigclivedotcom]

It may actually have used the original mould for a large older style lamp.

[@insector2]

Entire time with the disassembly I was screaming PLEASE PUT ON GLOVES I can just imagine accidentally sliding a finger along one of those edges

[@joeythefoxxo]

Alternate title: 13 minutes and 40 seconds of Clive attempting to NOT stab his own hands.

[@POVwithRC]

Absolute unit.

[@Roy_Tellason]

Fusible resistor blown, and capacitor poofed. Have you checked the bridge rectifier to see if any of the diodes are shorted? How about the MOV?

[@radio-ged4626]

I'm slightly confused as to why you would need PFC to improve efficiency in this circuit. Surely a smoothing capacitor after the bridge rectifier would be enough to ensure the DC supply would be stable enough to keep the LEDs on? It must be to do with dimmer use. Clearly I don't know enough about PFC.

[@iamdarkyoshi]

I got a new light for my kitchen that uses a 300mm tubular edison style lamp, but the stock lamp that came with it was a 240v 2700K lamp. I'm one of those freaks that prefers 5000K lights and I live in a 120V country, so I'm gonna make my own lamp for it. Tempted to put all the components on display inside the tube instead of hiding them in the base.

[@davidjones9730]

Clive, do you walk the streets of Isle of Man shouting "New lamps for old"? I think this has been done before. Hope you find the genie! Another great video.

[@WesHampson]

5:40 Do you by any chance sell these circuit pictures/scans?

[@bigclivedotcom]

I've never really considered doing that.

[@WesHampson]

@@bigclivedotcom I’m not sure what material you print these on, but this circuit in particular would make a good mousepad or CD art lol

[@countzero1136]

Just guessing here, but could that mystery component be a simple transistor used as a constant current source for the LEDs? Although why you'd need one when you already have three current regulators I have no idea, but it wouldn't be the first time that a Poundland product has had some weirdness inside :)

[@KallePihlajasaari]

You may be right. Often designers would use a pass transistor (with series resistor) around a 7805 3pin voltage regulator. The transistor on a heat-sink would do the heavy lifting and the regulator would track the voltage.

[@teardowndan5364]

You may be able to extend the broken wire by soldering a wire to a female pin header and using a small tube to push it on the remaining stub.

[@Leroys_Stuff]

That’s a damn cool lamp. Be nice to see it on

[@JamesBakerOhio]

Personally, I love the carnage! Your posts are like little islands of bliss in a rather disturbing ocean of chaos that is life in 2023.

[@davidthompson5646]

Maybe something for a future video... I've experimented with connecting dimmable 230v LED lamps in series. Unlike tungsten lamps, their wattage output appears not to follow the usual rough 'half the voltage, quarter the wattage' . e.g. two 12.5 watt (at 230v) lamps in series produce a combined 16.8 watts (at, presumably, 115v across each). I would expect a combined 6.25 watts. Is it worth an explore, or am I completely misguided ? Many thanks ☺️

[@MikeOrkid]

Dang it. I was hoping to see it out up. Seems like a pretty neat lamp.

[@channelsixtysix066]

Clive - "So Lets Get Into The Bottom Of This And Explore" .... 01:02 Now Clive, unlike that pink globe, this one definitely won't fit where the sun doesn't shine, without some serious pre-lubrication. The shape of the globe is rather ... alluring.

[@bigclivedotcom]

All I can say is "one man one jar".

[@channelsixtysix066]

@@bigclivedotcom 😄

[@jeffmassey4860]

Was really anticipating the Hammer of Justice...

[@charliedobbie8916]

Bulb manufacturers should include a tab on their bulbs like on corned beef cans, just in case Clive wants to get into them.

[@fredfred2363]

Excellent! 👍🏻😀🇬🇧

[@RadioactiveGloryHole]

That's a beautiful lamp

[@AsherJohnson-k1i]

I use side cutters all the time when I can't get inside something but mine are really dull from doing that

[@Schule04]

I have a smaller retro style bulb that seems to have failed the same way, almost immediately after I put it to use. First it flickered with a burning smell, and broke after being used for some hours