Building a USB powered PIR/Radar adaptor for LED strings.

This is a module that allows standard PIR and radar body-detector modules to be used with a standard USB power supply to switch a string of parallel LEDs (or just one higher powered one).
Note that some small modules don't have the output in the middle and will need hooked up with three individual wires. (You can also do that with the other modules if you want more positioning options.)
I used a 2-pin USB connector that in hindsight could have been mounted as a through hole component with the securing tabs also being soldered. It makes it easy to hook up to a USB power bank or plug-in supply. The power bank will need to be the type that puts out a steady 5V all the time without pulsing it or going into a sleep mode.
The PIR modules have a very low standby current and will run for a very long time in standby, but the doppler radar units draw a bit more current for their RF oscillator and a power bank will not last as long between charges in standby. (But still a long time.)
You can connect the common battery operated parallel strings of LEDs to these units, but if the ones with chasing effects are used only every second LED may light due to alternate LED polarities.
The choice of output resistors will affect the LED intensity and run time. The two 10 ohm resistors suggested will give about 100mA which is the maximum recommended for the BC547 transistor.
100mA is good for fairly long strings at good intensity, with good power bank run time.
The doppler unit can see through plastic for outdoor use, but will also pick up ambient foliage movement.
The Giaco maker knife website:- giaco.com/
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[@JerryEricsson]

Very cool video, I am sitting here in the living room with my wonderful wife of 51 years. She is asleep on the couch as the cancer that has taken over her body eats away at her organs and makes her body ever weaker. Our daughter who has moved in to help care for her has gone off to her bedroom for a nap, and watching your videos has the usual effect of relaxing me so much I too drifted off for a short time. So it is, I rewound to where I drifted off, and caught back up! Thanks so much for the videos, it takes me away from the horror's of old age and allows me a bit of freedom to relax and enjoy the old hobby that I have had to set aside so I can care for the love of my life, as she nears her end.

[@cedricpod]

in a world that is upside down ..... you are a calming , joyful voice. very fun to watch.

[@stevematthey6676]

Clive, your comment about component heat tolerance @

[@just_noXi]

New Anker Powerbanks now have the feature to stay awake if you doubleclick the button. Very neat for projects like this.

[@LordWilsonVILLA]

Clive, After years of soldering stuff, I picked up the habit of blowing on each joint I solder to help cool it down. I must confess while watching you solder in this video I found myself blowing to help cool it down - mad or what!

[@CanadairCL44]

Clive, this is great - I want to build one! I really appreciate the time you take to make these tutorials and pass on your knoledge and experience so generously. All the best to you!

[@JamesMossR33]

I'm using two of these PIRs in my under-bed lighting project and they work very well. They work with an LDR and ESP8266, talking to Home Assistant over MQTT. There's around 6m of neopixel LED tape and I can control the colour effect, light threshold, time on, etc. Works great and stops the good lady stubbing her toes in the night.

[@martinmacey4099]

What a great idea Clive, once again you made many of us chuckle with the Hot, Hot, Hot.. reminded me of the many times I have done the same when soldering.

[@williamsquires3070]

Combine 1 light sensor, 1 Doppler sensor, a vanity mirror w/frame, a strip of RGB LEDs (for lighting the mirror), a microcontroller that has a RTC (or Raspberry Pi), a fog generator, a solid-state relay that takes 3.3/5v logic levels from your micro or SBC-of-choice and has outputs compatible with the power in your country, a speaker (or the aux input to a working, but unused stereo), and some software and you can roll your own “magic mirror on the wall”. Put the RGB LED strip in the frame of the mirror (making sure not to break the mirror), and wire to the digital output(s) of your micro. Wire the 2 sensors to digital inputs, and put the light sensor outdoors to detect when it’s nighttime. Put the Doppler sensor somewhere near (but hidden) the mirror so it picks up when someone approaches the mirror. Drill a hole at the top of the mirror frame, and rig some tubing from the fog generator to this new hole. Also hide the speaker behind the mirror, and wire it to the audio output from your SBC or micro. Finally, you’ll need power for this get-up, and plug the fog generator into the solid state relay so it comes on when the input goes logic high. Also, set the time/date on the RTC for the micro or SBC.

[@CommanderZx2]

Ah thanks for this, I've been wanting to make something just like this. Been wanting to set up a string of LEDs, but only wanted them to come on when people were there.

[@acmefixer1]

LEDs are so much fun to play with when there's a sensor to turn them off when no one's around. I wish that everyone would forget about using the BC547 and 2N3904 for high currents. Instead used the BC337-25 or the PN2222A, which can handle a half amp. Also it's a good idea to arrange the pins in a triangle in the PCB because you may want to use a BD135 in the TO-126 package which has the collector in the center. Thanks so much for the excellent project video. LEDs are fun!

[@onecircuit-as]

Just made something very similar with a PIR and a Hall Effect sensor together, driving an LED strip via transistor. Nice design Clive! Take care. 👍😀

[@whitehoose]

I really like this circuit - I've used it from it's first appearance I stood on one leg with a magnifying glass and shamelessly copied the layout. Over time I've condensed board and practically halved the size by mounting resistors upright etc, I replaced the 2 balast resistors with a pot so it's adjustable. I like to keep it flexible so use the molex 3 way sockets for mounting the switching Tranny (2n22222 / Mosfet and the same connector pin as BC for PIR / Radar and use whatever is appropriate for connecting power and outputs I don't use usb bricks, mostly 18650 in a holder with a charge/protect chip attached.

[@morik3188]

My absolute favorite ham-fisted big bear on all of KZbin. Keep up the good work!

[@dreadroberts7523]

Really love the doppler radar motion sensors but... I used 5 of them around the house. After a few days half my face was numb, turned them off and a few weeks later the numb went away. Did this cycle a few times with same results. Somehow they react to me adversely. Incredible, given how very low RF these things put out. Now they are only Operational while im not home.

[@Moist_yet_Crispy]

I love the fact that you talk your way through building, instant SUB for me! I love the way you explain things and looking forward to all that you do! Thank you!!! I'm working on learning electronics and this is extremely helpful. /\

[@rayceeya8659]

I like the idea of using something like this to illuminate drawers or cupboards when you open them.

[@ElektronikLabor]

I love the USB connector; immediately ordered a bunch of them 👍

[@avejst]

Great design 👍

[@DigitalIP]

Ive been using a USB mini PIR with LED strips and a normal USB LED exactly for this for a while now.