Don’t Waste Your Money On These Mountain Bike Upgrades!

[@shawnpritchard366]

I don't care about performance, I love my oil slick titanium bolts. They add a subtle splash of color that appeals to my inner child.

[@NonLegitNation2]

I went with copper colored.

[@andrec.136]

Truth be told. We stare at our bikes when we're not riding them, so performance gains aren't the only reason we buy 'upgrades'.

[@julioaragao]

Yep. Technomaniacs, is what we are.

[@marcdemichele2689]

Love this comment!! Couldn't be more true!!

[@powerbound33]

So true

[@thedoggoesskrrrt]

You can stare at it but never squint your eyes😅

[@marcdemichele2689]

@@thedoggoesskrrrt Ha!! staring at mine right now. So hard not to squint!

[@amitkumar-wj8gn]

Just gonna add, pedals are a touch point so don't go by the price, go with the one that makes you feel the most secure. I rather spend a little more on pedals if they feel awesome. If that means a little more money, so be it.

[@brentcollins9727]

Agree. I have XT flat pedals on all three of our bikes. They feel perfect and spin for days.

[@whitest_kyle]

I ended up going for the Race Face Atlas because I was slipping pedals all the time on my cheap composite OneUps. I hardly ever slip pedals anymore and they have lifetime warranties/crash replacement. Well worth it IMO.

[@detkaiser3668]

Oneups have the longest pins on the market, you can't find pedals with more grip as long as you maintain the pins! (They can be destroyed to the point where it's impossible to replace pins, but that is another subject).

[@squezeerincresor906]

​@@detkaiser3668Had oneup alu pedals and now replaced with atlas and horizon, much more grip but it is personal preferencs

[@SourPatchPuss]

@@whitest_kyle same! I tried the Raceface Atlas pedals and switched both of my bikes to them right away. I’d always heard that Chester pedals were really good for their price and they were, but I didn’t realize how much more performance I could get by spending a bit more.

[@Aeysir]

have to say: the (back to front) Deore/Deore/XT combo is stunning. The XT shifter is excellent to use whilst the cheaper back end works as well as any other systems I've ridden

[@bikeradar]

Such a great hack! Back in the 10-speed days, Saint shifters were just re-branded XTR for 2/3rds of the price, an even better saving!

[@sp00n]

I stopped buying XT derailleurs since I brake them anyway at some point. And since the Deore version has been equipped with all the bells and whistles, it's basically a no-brained.

[@thegarageluthier]

​@@bikeradarI'm still running my saint shifter 😂

[@amo1850]

Huge difference between carbon & aluminum wheels. Good or bad, depending on the bike, but definitely huge difference.

[@paradox963]

Yep huge difference, also there is a huge difference between the ride feel of aluminium and carbon bars, a good compliant set of carbon bars can be a game changer for hand and arm fatigue.

[@shaunschneeberger6301]

This would be the biggest upgrade effecting performance

[@SourPatchPuss]

@@paradox963I completely agree! And you can get q good set of carbon bars for $150 which really isn’t even that much more than nice aluminum handlebars.

[@chempowr]

Yes I was surprised to hear them say carbon wheels are not worth it

[@shaunschneeberger6301]

@@chempowr definitely worth it especially if you smashing aluminum rims carbon rims just so much stronger well depends what you get for xc or enduro/dh there is different types of carbon rims and different quality

[@billiewright3577]

I don’t do upgrades to enhance the performance, I do it because I want to. I love carbon fiber and titanium, I love color coordination, and I love anything that catches my eye. My bike is not to show off, it’s for me to ride and oogle when I walk away from it. Lol.

[@marcdemichele2689]

After many, many yrs of riding I have found (as he mentioned) carbon bars to be one of the biggest game changers. I'm old (54) and they add a ton of dampening on the trails and definitely lessen trail fatigue on longer DH's. If you are riding aluminum, it is worth the $$ to switch fo' sho'!! Carry on!

[@adrianbeacon6421]

Maybe think about using suspension fork if carbon bars added ton of dampening...

[@antoineproulx3477]

I ride with carbon handlebars, RockShox Ultimate suspension, full X0.1 drivetrain and NSB Daemon pedal, but there is no titanium on my bikes. 4/5...not bad! ;)

[@cal5566]

Make it happin' capin'

[@IIISentorIII]

If you go *ALL IN* never hold back. Do it, you will come out stronger on the other side!

[@georgeandrew1143]

My Pivot Shadowcat even has titanium cable pinch bolts. XTR pedals as well as DMR Camo Vault. XX carbon cranks with EThirteen chainring, cassette, and handlebar. Eagle wireless derailleur as well as the wireless RockShox seatpost. Of course it has ENVE wheels with Industry 9 hubs. Ohh it’s got Fox Live Valve. Yes I work at a bike shop.

[@j.albertogratacos2076]

Yes to all of it. But there is a flip side. If you can afford it, getting better grade X or Y parts that you can feel even a slight improvement, brings the satisfaction that you're treating yourself to a high performance machine. However, higher end components should go hand in hand with a more intense maintenance schedule.... $$$

[@live4uncbball]

I’ve noticed a big difference in longevity since I moved to xo1 drivetrain from gx. Chain ring, cassette, and chain last a lot longer. I admit to using titanium bolts, but that’s because all other bolts I used had a tendency to corrode from my sweat

[@bikeradar]

Tom here, I agree on X01 cassettes and chains, they do seem to last very well. I'd take an X01 drivetrain with NX cranks and GX derailleur as a high-mid end drivetrain for SRAM as best bang for buck, or full Deore with an XT shifter and chain if choosing Shimano

[@vladimirmlynar3465]

​​@@bikeradarGood point, I was riding GX cassette with GX derailleur and there was all the time problém with noise during shifting between 3-4 and 11-12 speed. So I changed this to XO1 cassette and all is running like a "Swiss watch". Its probably due to different technology ( CNC machined X01 cassette from 1 pc vs riveted GX cassette). Of course price is double but People who hate noise or squeeze on their bikes during riding have no other option :)

[@snowairland]

My xx1 chain is at .50 wear after 2000 miles of xc riding, when compared to a standard sram chain which will be at .75 wear at 1500 miles for me, so I spend an extra $20 for the xx1.

[@joesmith3908]

I replace my gx chain once a year and that gets me 3 years out of the cassette. That between 5-6k in miles :)

[@robertgore9449]

I will never forget the first carbon frame I rode. Galactic difference. I’m tall and weigh more than average riders, so maybe I noticed it more, but the torsion flex difference was mind blowing. I would never ride an aluminum frame again. Did once, thought I was gonna die.

[@BRTbike-fz5fn]

Smoked a XTR derailleur and replaced with an XT, Got rid of the creaky XT cassette for a Deore, shifts better I think. I didn't think the carbon cage on the XTR was that great as compared to the less expensive and minimally heavier XT.

[@billydeewilliams8909]

Definitely disagree on pedals, though my choice (Crankbrothers Stamp 7 on all my bikes) is definitely personal preference. Bottom line, you should be spending what you need to on your contact patches: pedals, grips, tires, and brakes. Don't cheap out on any of these in your quest for the ones that fit you best.

[@vlbz]

My pedals cost 40 euros. A pro wouldn't be able to tell the difference between those and the Stamp 7s. I agree, don't cheap out on contact points, but that really means get those 30-40 euro pedals instead of the cheapest plastic. Same for other bits. Except tires. I'm never looking at prices with tires.

[@TypicalGuy84]

RaceFace atlas for me, spent more on color alone. Get what makes you happy

[@nathansperry1685]

I have never had composite pedals last longer than a year before they started dying. I have some very old cranky brother's pedals that have lasted about 7 times as long and feel better. Worth the price

[@marketseeker]

I still like my 1982 Schwinn with a sissy bar and banana seat ,, but I had to add tritium bolts to lower the weight

[@letsgoletsgoletsgoletsgoletsgo]

i've rode a steel hardtail for the past 7 years since i started this crazy lfiestyle, 2 months ago i finally pulled the trigger on a carbon cc santa cruz nomad 5 frameset on sale . the frame is already heavier than my steel hardtail , but my back doesnt ache for weeks after each ride. i watched through this whole video now , and the whole decision factor is based on performance , well if that's your case sure fine, but for a lot of people bikes are more than just performance , its something to behold , its pride and joy, so if it makes you happy to bling it up , do it !

[@bikeradar]

So very true! Performance is one thing, loving your pride and joy and feeling good about it is another 😍

[@titter3648]

Best tip: Don't follow the manufacturers service interval for your forks. There is really no need to service your forks or rear suspension all the time. The seals almost last forever, and it normally won't leak for almost the lifetime of the bike. On my 2007 bike i have had the fork serviced one time years ago and never serviced the rear shock and they run flawless still and the airpressure is still the same as when i last pumped it to the correct pressure for my weight years ago. If you think about it you don't get the dampers on your car serviced every year do you? Or ever really except if it totally fails.

[@TypicalGuy84]

You know, I never even thought about serving my suspension until I watched a video researching my last bike purchase. They want to sell oil, seals, and other bits. Like you, I have a 2005 full sus I never had serviced. It still works. Maybe I should service it but I bet they won't have the parts to replace any worn bits.

[@detkaiser3668]

I can't appreciate this clip enough. 5 of 5 stars I stay at 11 speed, and usually at SLX level, maybe XT shifters, but also deore r.d. And build my bikes from 2nd hand and if possible sales parts. I'm not my lbs's best friend though.

[@sbccbc7471]

When you know how to work on your bike, LBS' are just your asset to buy stuff from. 🤣 I can't remember the last time I brought mine to one for mechanical work.

[@bikeradar]

Great to hear you liked the video!

[@davidmatthew5246]

I would argue about the "Oil Slick" Ti hardware. I live near the Pacific Ocean, where you can watch rust form on metal, while you are drinking your morning coffee, and you will see the need for Ti bolts, over the stock steel bolts in no time. I do love my carbon bits, though I would admit that I am more of a "Weight Winnie" with my carbon road bike, and so I have Carbon Wheels, plus Carbon cranks, bars, stem, stem stack (spacers), seat post clamp and seat post, and water bottle cages. My Alloy MTB does have Carbon bars, stem stack (spacers), and a carbon water bottle cage. On both style bikes, I prefer Carbon bars over Alloy, as the carbon soften the "Jolts" to my hands compared to alloy bars. I currently quality Alloy Flats on one MTB, and on the previously meantioned MTB near the ocean, I am running RaceFace "Chester" pedals. less expensive, lighter weight, "grippy" and offered in various color choices.

[@davide.6204]

Pedals - agree that basic Shimano SPDs are a high value and well-perming choice, but disagree about going (too) cheap on flats. Most pedals I have had feel fine at first, but there is a HUGE difference in grip and feel among different flat pedal designs and, in my experience, longevity of performance between rebuilds. My first pair of flats, which I bought because they were a "value" proposition from a well known company, lasted about a year before they developed too much play to be usable. Parts for rebuilding were not easily available and I ended up taking a chance a second pair. After another year these failed also failed and I replaced them with a pair of Deity Bladerunners, which cost twice as much but had far better grip and feel, lasted three years of heavy riding before needing a rebuild and could be rebuilt easily with a reasonably priced service kit from Deity. Better performance and a far better value over time.

[@Simte]

I would add not to invest in an integrated handlebar and internal routing there's absolutely no need for that on the trail and they are a nightmare to work with.

[@DB-sd3cw]

People really hate on internal routing for no reason. Just tape the new line to the old line and pull through goofball.

[@silver_c1oud]

I Love Internal Routing I hate external

[@sbccbc7471]

@@DB-sd3cw There's more than one type of internal routing now, almost everybody is way too vague when they talk about it. Integrated internal routing is the more hated one over regular internal routing (doesn't route through the headset assembly).

[@DB-sd3cw]

@@sbccbc7471 whole lot of yapping on your end little feller

[@sbccbc7471]

@@DB-sd3cw I'm OK with regular internal routing, just not the integrated counterpart, especially if the bike isn't a road bike. Before you say anything, I have worked on integrated internal routing before and I'm capable of doing it. All of my work with this routing configuration (frame-up build, cockpit swap, etc.) is done solo.

[@topchoice1621]

I’m glad someone has set this straight

[@bikeradar]

Glad you enjoyed the video!

[@guidodezwaan]

carbon wheels upgrade including new hub were the best upgrade to my bike, made it climb and accelerate so good. Have to say they were second hand. Wouldnt have done it new.

[@federaldelii]

💯💯👏🏻👏🏻

[@mtbboy1993]

I have Deore m6100 sgs run it with 11 speed Garbaruk 11-50t HG cassette. It's super light at about 300g so about half weight of Deore. It's cheaper and light that Sram and Shimano's top options, even the 12 speed cassette. The Deore Rd does the job. No issues with it. And a plus with the Deore is it has a cover for the clutch that does not have a hole for adjustment, so no rubber cap thst falls off and salty water coming in. And having to fill the hole with grease or glue. But it's sold as a spare part, so you can put it on a xt or xtr Rd if you want. That's what I would have done if I had it. I use Archer D1xtrail, with paddle remote. Great ergonomics for me. I need it due to thumb misalignment during shifts. Which can be painful.

[@mtbboy1993]

Pedal platform size is important. I use Pedaling Innovations Catalyst pedals BTW they are 15% off on Black Friday deal now. They hav long enough platform to support the arch. I reccomend using the long pins, it's a must in snow. They also offer a XL version for massive feet.

[@pgjudo]

My buddy runs those and won’t stop talking about how great they are. I have to try them. Missed that sale though, and they’re $150; XLs are $200 😬

[@ZRMTB]

Shimano brakes/drivetrain and Fox suspension. 👌🏽

[@bikeradar]

Can't go wrong with that! Especially if you choose wisely from both brands

[@NonLegitNation2]

I feel personally attacked about the Ti bolts, lol. But hey if anyone is interested Better Bolts is currently having a 20% off sale. I plan on picking up a couple more useless, but pretty Ti bolts later this week.

[@bikeradar]

Under no circumstances has Tom just requested a full oil slick bolt kit from them for his new long term test bike. Nope. Not at all. Never.

[@Mo.Jo.MTB_101]

I'm afraid I have to join the needless Ti bolt club and the useless but pretty custom Chainring and Pullywheels club...🙈 But I agree 100% most on Suspension I put a Domain on my Occam and upgraded it to Charger 2.1 it works amazing and and it was alot less then the Zeb Ultimate which had the same damper at the time...

[@bikeradar]

There are A LOT of members in the pointless Ti bolt club it appears! 😂

[@Paulroach6]

Well I’ve been riding long enough to know that when I started and all let’s say GX range parts on my bike. And now many years later XO level all round and well there’s a huge difference. Paying the extra coin has me servicing and repairing my bike a whole lot less. Less down time has been worth the upgrades.

[@marccavallaro]

Titanium is has better corrosion resistance for us beachside folks.

[@rideitmtb]

In rust we trust

[@iecrime]

For decades, I rode only alu mtb and road bikes. Basically budget bikes with decent components. Several years ago, I hit my 50s and had a bit of a *mid-life crisis* moment where I decided to treat myself to the bikes and component upgrades I long wanted but resisted buying. Sold my alu bikes and bought a quality carbon endurance road bike, and steel mtb & road bikes. Fitted all w/carbon wheels, expensive tires, saddles, seat posts and pedals etc (though I haven't gone di2 on any of my bikes). Probably spent over 8k on upgraded components alone. While perhaps not necessarily money well spent since my ride quality didn't improve to the same extent the amount spent would suggest, I'm still glad that I indulged. I gained a lot of perspective since then and no longer feel the same desire for the newest, latest bike or component, having become content with what I have. In fact, for two of my bikes, (one road and my mtb) I switched back to the original stock alloy rims, finding they offered a better ride than the expensive carbon wheels I upgraded to.

[@GokkunGuru]

I did everything this video says not to do but at the end of day I’m happy with my bike and beyond.

[@bikeradar]

Do what makes you happy ❤️

[@Whyusadd]

I like carbon bars I bought some ns carbon bars and it really has made a difference. Cranks I would stay with alloy… wheels companies like Nobel will replace broken wheels so there’s that but DTswiss 510s are perfect for the price

[@bikeradar]

If we had to spend out on carbon, bars would be first, then wheels. NOBL make great wheels as well and the prices of carbon hoops in general is coming down in a lot of cases

[@denisrogers4358]

Eddy was right “Don’t buy upgrades Ride up grades”

[@KA-zq3yp]

I live in Edmonton Canada and the best upgrade anyone can buy is warm gear so you can ride all year.

[@coldforgedcowboy]

Or you could just get a monthly gym pass and crosstrain during the winter months.

[@KA-zq3yp]

@@coldforgedcowboy or I could do both and bike to the gym. Really man….

[@bikeradar]

Same here in the UK!

[@johnsheetz6639]

You got a personalized the bike I don't have much money so I go for the colored anodized bolts grips and pedals I learned about Play breaking shifter cable covers I went back to black because you got to just color coordinate once you get a color

[@ewann3]

Years ago I bought the fatbars (luckily 35 rise) and weighed them with the stock Kona bars, think it was like 14g i saved, I do like them though. Also I ride Premium slim plastic bmx pedals as I got them cheap, have them on my bmx with my own grubscrews cast into them and have never let me down and are ultra grippy. IMO metal pedals are expensive and inferior for grip

[@brownzys]

tbh after falling into the carbon trap. I wish I wouldv went for easy to service mineral oil brakes, Gx 12 speed with xo1 shifter with shimano cassette and chain and slx cranks. rock shox select + suspention from last year(has the charger damper but is less complicated to setup and is way cheaper) a good alloy frame that is easy to work on (raaw for example) and carbon wheels with a lifetime waranty (I break rims... )

[@brownzys]

Tbh just get the Spectral al 6 sell the wheelset and put a wheelset on that you like. it is more than capable for any type of riding and dirt cheap compared to other brands without sacrificing a lot of quality

[@shafiqjan1474]

Ti bolts are best left to RC cars where they make a bit of difference... My money goes into brakes, suspension and wheels. Go metal 👍🏼

[@gordonfreeman6305]

Really good to see sensible advice during an economic crunch. They'll always be vanity purchases, but this at least reminds us they are.

[@aidavcomedy]

Pedals are pretty subjective. My fave are e*thirteen base pedals. I've tried a few and settled on them. My son loves my Diety deftrap pedals I took off. My next fave is a cheapo rockbros set of pedals I got off amazon. Surprisingly good.

[@michaelbulygin8306]

After riding the high-end bike, it's very difficult to go back

[@Nihilist13]

Also a Ti addict, agree with your points.

[@bikeradar]

#tiboltclub

[@alasdairstewart9534]

On titanium bolts, should these not be more corrosion resistant than steel? i.e. less likely to seize?

[@bikeradar]

They are less likely to corrode, but you still need to apply anti-seize to the threads still

[@silver_c1oud]

Finally a reasonable Video

[@bikeradar]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@derekh9307]

LOL, I spent 400 on Ti bolts just because I like how they look on my bike. I feel your pain :)

[@AdventureRich]

You've definitely hit the spot with the shifters. I have an SLX drive train which seems amazing and reliable performance, but the Deore shifters drive me absolutely crazy! At $50 USD, XT shifters will undoubtedly make me a lot happier on the trail 🙏🏽 I didn't notice that before, thanks for this!

[@bikeradar]

Glad to hear it was helpful! Genuinely, if we could have one expensive piece of drivetrain kit, it would be the shifter!

[@IIISentorIII]

Im a Big fan of going SLX with a XT shifter and run this setup on my Stumpy and Scotts :)>

[@Pesmog]

I have this set up as well on my Canyon, but I added an XTR cassette (nearly new secondhand) and with this budget hybrid set up it now has the best shift of any bike that I have owned in the last 40 years. Its certainly better than my other bikes that have GX, although they are also very good anyway as is said in the video.

[@siriosstar4789]

Wow a sane and reasonable approach devoid of industry hype . 👍👍👍

[@bikeradar]

Glad you enjoyed the video!

[@KenGilbert-yn4qz]

HT PA03 nylon pedals are the best thing since sliced bread, super grippy but boy do they bite. Have the scars to prove it. Still worth it.

[@Pesmog]

Three of my bikes have the HT PA03a's and I agree, they are excellent for the money. Despite being nylon and quite light they are very tough, and the bearings seem to be very water resistant as well. 👍

[@Rose_Butterfly98]

Why was that stumpjumper so heavy? My Collosus T8 is only 460 grams heavier and only the frame is carbon. The old Stumpjumper was much lighter. Also, those ht pedals don't last very long. I've had ht pedals before, they're awesome, especially the really thin ones, just the problem that they didn't even last 2000km before they started to makeca groaning noise. My spank and saint pedals on my 2 MTBs have lasted much longer. Especially the saint ones, they came with the bike and theyre past 16000km. Sure they cost more than twice the HTs but they have lasted more than 8x the distance

[@bikeradar]

We've had good luck with the HT's but little beats Shimano pedals for durability. They are great value for sure.

[@andreifranca]

My bike is sustainable... it is 100% carbon free!

[@bikeradar]

🤘

[@Gregorius421]

Thumbs up for the Ti bolt addiction.

[@bikeradar]

#tibolts4lyf

[@brabius]

I call it JEWELRY. So many small upgrades are just jewelry, needed for the only purpose of making us feel good. The drivetrains and shifters, in particular, from one model to another can get more fancy and a little smoother, but no big real difference.

[@marksfarmcraft1888]

Having been a SuperSport motorcycle rider for 40 years, I can tell you that MOST riders buy the fastest bike they can afford and NEVER push the bike to half its limits. I'm pretty sure the same can be said for mountain bikes. That said, if it makes you feel good and you can afford it...knock yourself out! 🙂If you're in the upper 10%...good on you.

[@eugenegutierrez5106]

For me only few upgrades I would do.: front and rear shock, drive train and brakes. The rest is just aesthetic. Maybe carbon rims

[@Fra93TheGrande]

i have almost all of these on my bike LOL (carbon parts, top spec fork (Fox 32 Factory Stepcast) and drivetrain too (Shimano XTR)) but mine is a xc bike and i'm a weight weenie lol, the only thing i'm missing are titanium bolts

[@charlesholland6851]

chinese titanium bolts are cheap and i love them. i don’t want the same bike as everyone else’s so i make them mine. that’s important to me. yall right though. don’t need the most expensive things

[@MrSoup6029]

nice wheels, whether carbon or aluminum make a noticeable difference, all the other carbon BS is true for most people. I do have some carbon bars that do eliminate the pain in my hands, but I can't sy that another pair of alloy bars wouldn't do the same.

[@jimm244]

I beg to differ on your rear shock comments. Yes, bikes are frequently spec’d with a custom tune, but often it’s close enough to an off-the-shelf tune to where some adjustments or volume spacers can dial it in. I’m not downplaying a custom tune, but for many many riders it’s not needed.

[@2468bidw]

The wheels on those 2 Specialized bikes would make a huge different & be most of the $$

[@hatueytavarezolmos4858]

Hoping to see more videos and articles like this one in 2024 🎉🎉🎉

[@sloops4398]

I was going back from "vibration reducing carbon bars" to the Spank vibrocore handlebar and will never go back to carbon. Now i have no problems with arm pump anymore thx to aluminium.

[@LEL7567-ABCDEF]

the nukeproof horizon DH pedals are now £25 and the mosy grippy pedals ever. so worth it + five ten freerider pro

[@Terrorworld]

For me the switch from mechanic to wireless shifting was mindblowing. Never going back to mechanic.

[@dalehinkley6168]

Installing carbon cranks definitely took the weight off my cutthroat so not sure why I would have stuck with the heavy ass race face crank set that came with it. Also, my cutthroat’s frame is carbon so it was only beneficial to have the pedals match my frame.

[@bikeradar]

That is excellent justification! 😂

[@nejcbesal1578]

Do you thing it is worth upgrading drivetrain from Sram GX eagle to the new wireless GX eagle axs?

[@garthflint]

I have both. The answer is yes and no. If you have money burning a hole in your pocket then yes. If spending that money will hurt, then no. I like the wireless much better than wired. Easier to shift, less hassle, no cable maintenance, etc. BUT the shifting is not hugely different. It is different but not $500+ worth different. I love being able to just brush the shifter and know it is going to shift. The battery charging issue is not an issue. The thing lasts a long time. Months.

[@nejcbesal1578]

@@garthflint Thanks

[@ninjazzrhythm400]

Imo, fork and rear suspension is the most important upgrade on the bike. 2nd are the tires, then Brake set.

[@Whyusadd]

Slx and xt are perfect for the people, just reliable and doesn’t cost the world

[@sbccbc7471]

That's what I'd run if I have a trail bike, I just want it to be fun and work without issues.

[@bikeradar]

The reliable workhorses!

[@Whyusadd]

@@bikeradar 100%

[@alex_rogan]

Got to disagree on the pedal upgrade. I went to TMAC Alloy from composite One Ups and found the size and stiffness much better let alone the durability. Ones thing to not rule out upgrades is the perceived or placebo effect. If you feel good you ride good. Maybe not $3000 better though. Imagine what $3000 of coaching could get you.

[@mitcosonline]

i putted together my pumptrack bike from used details. I found carbon handlebars, cranks for 60 and 100eur. So, it cost less than 1K and weight is 9.3kg. how about that

[@bikeradar]

It's true you can find some bargains on the second hand market, but always be wary of carbon as its hard to spot any damage

[@tekjim]

The charger 3 is actually an inferior damper to the charger 2

[@rideitmtb]

6 ti bolts was still a cheaper way to pimp my cockpit than a full snazzy stem upgrade which i defo didnt NEED…

[@j.albertogratacos2076]

The only titanium is inside my arm. Which makes me wonder, how much I would have saved from the medical bill if they had used steel.

[@johnlesoudeur3653]

And when you died it would have said "Rust In Peace".

[@IIISentorIII]

"The Six Million Dollar Man" Opening Theme ....better,....stronger... :)

[@phoenixinthetrees1446]

Yes, very logical - head over heart. It's just that sometimes, the heart wins...

[@tonybailey89]

I'm really considering giving a try to TPR's fancy black and gold EVO 12 groupset, on the same level with SRAM XX and Shimano XTR... Lol this practicality didn't help

[@bikeradar]

Check out our review on EVO12! It is good, but more like XT and GX than XTR/XX.

[@tonybailey89]

@@bikeradar well damn for the price that's disappointing to hear lol, I'll check out the video and keep researching thanks!

[@Limestream73]

Oh, there are other pedals than the M530 and M700. Good to know. ;)

[@junreaksaa]

Shimano deore is a bang for the buck parts.

[@raident29]

upgraded all of the things you've said, i felt attacked lol

[@bikeradar]

Tom only knows them all because he has done every one of them himself 😂

[@boulderghost4457]

Titanium bolts are my favorite target for a soothing day of shopping therapy. Ohhhhhhhhh shinnnnnny!

[@dragoschisavu]

Fancy stem, handlebar and spacers as well

[@bikeradar]

Are you even a cyclist if you don't have carbon headset spacers!?

[@dragoschisavu]

@@bikeradar hate the look of it lol

[@casestudymtb]

I do feel your stump jumper comparison misses the point a bit on carbon, that's only one example and one use case. There are situations where the weight savings is more substantial but also where the performance gains from the frame and rims can justify the cost... I say having a 40lb alloy enduro bike and a 27lb carbon trail bike.... though that's not so much am upgrade thing as a whole new frame/design philosophy thing.

[@VerthNeel]

Agree 100%.

[@fernandosaucedo9811]

I made the first two recently 😆

[@Masemoto]

😂 I literally just ordered a carbon stem, titanium bolts for my new XO Transmission and Fox Factory emtb with carbon hoops. But hey I got it for 25% off msrp. Now looking for a good deal on XTR trail pedals

[@bikeradar]

Excellent work! 😂

[@HUKIT.]

I can say within a shadow of doubt I’d be able to discern a 3lbs difference.

[@ironymatt]

Most would tbh, but at $1K/lb you'd best be a trust funder or at least the equivalence in disposable income

[@martinkrutz5698]

Loose that 1.5 kg off our stomachs and the difference is huge, as an X road racer I knew guys that were over weight, but always spent a fortune on light bikes?

[@peterduncan9277]

Also, calculation for weight savings for wheels is roughly 2x for rotational weight. So if you shave off 200g per wheel with carbon rims, than 400g per wheel rotational weight = approx 1 lb rotational weight or 2 lb total rotational weight savings for both wheels.

[@bikeradar]

It's a great point and wheels in general is, after tyres, the place we do recommend you get the best you can afford. Doesn't have to be carbon, but quality wheels are a must have!

[@Mojopin94]

bruh, carbon wheels totally change the feel of a bike. If you can get some second hand, they are about the best bang for buck upgrade you can do.

[@bikeradar]

Carbon wheels are a great upgrade, but other carbon bits less so. If you can afford them, carbon wheels make a difference in some cases!

[@LaurentiusTriarius]

I returned to aluminium wheels for my most recent bikes, they are cheap and in both cases a 100g difference per set doesn't do much for me. Hey on MTB's I saved up to 100g with ti and aluminium hardware, I must add if you're clever about it Titanium hardware is pretty cheap. Under 40$ you can easily do a whole bike if you wait 2 weeks for delivery 💀🤣 I hate what the industry is telling me to buy, keep your 100$ 60g dropper lever I have one thats 19$ and 32g. Works better too it doesn't eat cables 😈

[@Doc_Raphy]

The only time titanium bolts are justified is when you have a rusty bolt that needs replacing.

[@bikeradar]

Or they are oil slick. Always oil slick. Taste the rainbow.

[@Doc_Raphy]

@@bikeradar ahh, yes. The bolts on my bike are mostly all oilslick since the stock ones got rusty. I just like the fact that the only part where I'll worry about rust is the chain.

[@ondrejjanoska660]

I absolutely disagree with carbon bar being overrated .... I am having a lot of pain in my ring finger joint .... One up bar let me ride more!

[@silver_c1oud]

Nah it actually is. I Hate carbon

[@snowman22ism]

I disagree with you on the pedals. I've had many different kinds of petals and my favorites were an expensive aluminum pedal. They felt better the shoes I wear. They grip better. And they are put together with higher quality parts as well.

[@dago_0730]

The moment we realise we don't need "cockpits" but just "handlebars" we'll spare a fortune

[@petedog9581]

If somebody can spend $10K on a bike, they want carbon everything.

[@27lacuna27]

I've been running carbon bars on all my bikes for years now and wouldn't go back

[@taylordw]

A feather light carbon hardtail climbs better than any bike, if superior climbing is your goal a dualy with lockout is just too heavy. as far as useless expensive upgrades what about ceramic bearings ?

[@octavianpal6384]

Man you can’t tell me what to buy, if i want a bling,i buy it

[@POVMTB1]

one thing that pisses me off a bit about bike brands that only carbon bikes come with better components than alloy, but i don't want carbon frame , i want alloy frame and good parts, like top suspension good brakes and so on

[@shaun1900]

Take a look at Norco

[@bikeradar]

More brands are doing this now, YT do several models and Commencal fit mostly non-carbon components to their bikes

[@shaun1900]

​@@bikeradar you actually misread what he said

[@natepittenger7084]

I would agree with all of this except the pedals. I’m fully convinced that my Pedaling Innovations Catalyst pedals are a legitimate upgrade and massively improve comfort and control. It’s hard to justify $150 pedals but I promise these are worth it.