biOrb Aquarium | Adding the first fish | See my other recent video on this subject

[@bonniecooper2186]

Hello, just wanted to say thanks so much for the KZbin series. Just brought the 35litre tube tank, very happy with how it looks, great design. You really cleared up alot of uncertainty when it came to our first tank. It seemed the advice on the fish forums was very conflicting, over the whole fish in or fishless cycle. Without taking in consideration that the biorb does things a little different. Will stay tuned for future video's!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hello Bonnie. Thanks for your wonderful comments. Really, really, appreciated. Yes, it is because of all the "stuff" out there that I decided to do this Channel. I'm trying to do what I really needed to have long ago when I began with a biOrb (there was so little then!). As you say, biOrbs are far different from the norm (and the much larger aquariums) and it so easy to get get caught up in all the conflicting views, many of which aren't even related to biOrbs. My channel is about what I do.... and hopefully it helps (even if only partly) other people with their own and helps to ensure that fish survive the early days of being released into a biOrb. A very Happy Easter to you and thanks for watching and subscribing. Very best wishes, Mark.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Argh.. I want a tube! Great choice.

[@bonniecooper2186]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb I can quickly see how I will end up with multiple tanks in the house! Quick update added two guppies today, swimming around nicely together. Perameters are fine. Used API quick start as was the only one in stock near me. So shall drop a comment how that will cycle the tank. Do you have any shrimps in your tank? I heard they can get stuck in the biorb substrate, any thoughts? I Heard they don't add to the tanks head count, so nice to have a little added interest at the bottom without over crowding.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hey, nice to hear from you again. Keep it up! Yes, API Quick Start is fine. The key thing, unless you use the Colony product I recommended, is you MUST slowly add small numbers of fish over time. You are doing it all spot on! Go "all male" with live bearers though! I think shrimps are generally fine with the biOrb substrate, it is small fish that are far often the ones that get themselves stuck in the media. I've lost a couple of fish like that! I'm not really aware of shrimps getting stuck though, they are very well designed to explore crevices etc. Yes, shrimps don't really "add" to the bioload (headcount) of the tank - like fish do. Getting stuck typically happens with new small fish (small guppies, Endler's etc) and so it is always best to avoid fish food that sinks too quickly - as it is the food they are generally after (which falls between the media). I'd suggest you get Hikari, Fancy Guppy food if you haven't already. That largely stays on the surface for long enough for your fish to clear most of it up, with far less sinking down between the media. I suggest you check on (count) your new guppies twice a day (not a problem with only two! Lol! ) during the early days to make sure none are stuck in the media. You can put your hand in and free them up if that happens - they only tend to make that silly mistake once and don't tend to fall for it again! Call it "new fish scenario!"

[@HayleyFilmmaker]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi Mark, I have been watching all your videos in preparation for starting my 30l halo biorb. I’m all set up now and I added my first (and probably only) fish to the tank. 5 guppies. But they are literally just staying at the top of the tank. It’s been 5 hours now, and no signs of coming down. I gave them a small amount of food like you said, and have since left them to it. Do they take time to settle in? Anything I should be worried about? Thanks for your advice in advance 👍🏼 kind regards, Hayley

[@463Richard]

Thanks for taking the time and doing these step by step videos. It’s made me realise the amount of effort required. It’s also helped me decide that 30L not 60L is the best entry into this hobby. I’ve recently taken early retirement so this is the right time for me to take the plunge into keeping fish. Thanks again, really helpful.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. At an entry level you would find a 60L far easier than a 30L (it is twice as much water). The smaller the tank (i.e. reduced amount of water) the more difficult it is to control water quality. Generally, larger tanks are easier to manage (in terms of water quality) than smaller ones.

[@463Richard]

Thanks for that advice.@@StepbyStep-biOrb

[@SpeedyGolfCart77]

Great stuff very helpful!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

it's great to hear from you Dennis and thanks so much for the positive comments. :)

[@matthewmaddocks6276]

Thanks so much for all these videos! We bought a biorb flow 30l earlier this week and your advice has been invaluable. Just added our first fish 6 neon tetrss along with some beneficial bacteria from PetsAH. The instructions say add daily for a week? We used the treatment that came with the tank yesterday and added a dose of this stuff tonight before the fish were put in the tank. Thanks again for all your advice, we have bought all the stuff you recommended in your other vide, some things we totally over looked so you really helped here.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

That's great! Thanks you so much for your comments, really appreciated! I'm not familiar with the petsAH beneficial bacteria but will look into that. But, I'm sure it will be fine. Not sure why to add daily for a week but if that's what the instructions say then go with it! Keep an eye on the fish, they are best indicators of things getting problematic. But don't panic - as described in my other videos - it is always the most stressful stage. Use test strips or test kit to keep an eye of how the cycling is going (ammonia through to nitrate). Minimise feeding! Any issues please do shout! Wishing you all the best with it all. Mark.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Any problems. especially during the early days on fish introduction, don't hesitate to call me

[@matthewmaddocks6276]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb thanks Mark that's really really kind of you!! We might go purchase some colony today as it gets such good reviews. I'll be able to test the water later as our API master kit is coming!! Fish seem happy. They do not seem to like the bright white light though (6 neon tetras) when we turned it on yesterday evening, they all crowded in the corner until I turned it off! Again your videos have been so good for us, they really helped clarify the information on what to do. Hardest part will not be feeding them for a few days, they went wild when we did the light feed after introducing them to the tank!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Yes, get Colony if you can. If the other product doesn't work for you then Colony would be a good emergency back-up and should get you back on track. If you need to add, just dose the tank with the Colony at 35ml. You only need ATM's smallest bottle and it will keep for fair while so you can use it to support any major cleaning of the tank decor etc later on (just add a cap full to give the tank's bacteria a little boost). Yep, neon tetras can be a very shy at first and do tend to like a fair bit of cover to hide amongst. Numerous fish are like that at first. It's the complete opposite with Endler's! Lol. Anyway, I'm sure they will get their confidence back up once they settle in. Fish can go for a long time without any food so you just have to ignore their begging and pleading :-). I know it is hard, but far better to have hungry fish at this stage than dead ones! If your nitrites rise, and they probably will, don't over panic. Avoid doing a "panic reaction water change" during the period as you will remove the bacteria (which stay in suspension for up to several days) and you will likely make the situation far worse. When you start feeding again, go light at first and very slowly increase over the following days. Thanks for watching the channel too. Much appreciated. More videos coming soon (can only do them when my little boys are out the house as they are far too noisy!). Best, Mark

[@matthewmaddocks6276]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb We did a water test with API master kit and I think we got some fantastic results! Ph 7.4 Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 10ppm So I would assume our tank is cycling? We have had the fish 24 hours now, would you still hold off feeding even with the ammonia and nitrite at 0? They are all young by the way.

[@Nickhilton90]

These videos are quality really appreciate them, i have got the 35l tube tank and are much more confident about getting the water quality/ cycling right now.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Nick. Thanks for the positive comments... really appreciated. If you need any advice with anything just drop me a line in the comments section. Best wishes. Mark

[@peterjones4112]

Ive seen a fair bit about using ammonia or fish food to cycling a tank but I think your suggestion seems a lot easier. And you add your fish at the same time?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Yes, you can certainly do it that way but I'd say it really helps to know what you are doing. I think the method I've suggested if far easier and reliable. It also adds the benefit that you can add all your fish from day one and don't need to wait for many weeks to get to the same end point. Hope that helps. Best, Mark

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

I suggest you follow my videos 'How to set up' Part 1 and Part 2 (then leave the tank operating for several days) then follow my Adding Fish video. Yes, you add the bacteria at an amount suitable for your tank and then add the fish at a number and size suitable for the tank. My suggestion, for anybody new to having an aquarium, is to choose fish that are described as being hardy (i.e. avoid sensitive fish species that can't tolerate variations in water parameters). A good fish store should be able to advise you on the best to use if you are not sure.

[@jpl0202]

Mark, I just received my Biorb tank (TUE 35L) and found your site seeking guidance on setting it up. Thanks so much as you are very thorough in explaining the chemistry of an aquarium. Also, thanks for the suggested products to get started. I am ordering them as soon as I send this message.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. Thanks for contacting me and for supporting the Channel. Really appreciated. I'm glad you are finding the videos of help... hopefully they will guide you in the right direction and avoid the mistakes that many people make when getting a biOrb/new tank. A 35l tube is a really great biOrb to get!! Key things to get are: 1. a good bacterial product to cycle with (don't bother with those silly biOrb sachets!); 2. a really simple dechlorinator (AquaSafe is perfect as it does exactly what it says it does with no hype!); 3. a gravel vac to remove waste build up. Those are the basic/essential products you need. If I can help... just shout! Best wishes. Mark

[@ianbailey6067]

Hi mark thanks for your excellent advice sofar added 4 male endlers today with the atm colony there a bit energetic little things just give a light feed like you said one of the smallest ones got stuck in the ceramic and had was rescued quickly no I'll effects is this a common thing that they try just wanted to no how many days after do I check the water parameters and how many days before I do the first weekly water change and how much to take out being a 15lt thanks for supporting the biorb with your excellent advice as usual cus these biorb seem to get a bad wrap kind regards ian

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Ian. All sounds great so far Certainly keep an eye on very small fish that get stuck in the ceramic media - it often happens with some new small fish for some reason! Call it "silly new fish syndrome". Poor things, they have probably been grown in a glass bottomed tank , so the smaller fish (which can't compete with bigger fish) expect to find all their food at the very bottom of the tank. Once they do get stuck they tend to learn and don't do it again. You might need to free them up though... so keep an eye on them. I never find it an issue with such fish once they have fully settled in. In terms of monitoring, if you can, you should do a daily test on water quality as a means to track the progress of the cycling. There are three things you are checking - ammonia, nitrate, nitrite. I would expect ammonia to show the highest first (with less nitrite and hardly any nitrate rise at all). This should turn on its head after several days of cycling and begin to show lower ammonia, more nitrite, and an increasing nitrate level (i.e. nitrate level compared to your initial tap water reading). Every aquarium is different though... but that is the general trend for cycling. The beneficial bacteria (BB) associated with Colony will initially be present in the water column and they need to populate the ceramic media. Therefore, do not undertake a water change until the tank is fully cycled as you will be removing BB through extracting aquarium water. This normally takes several days at least. Water changes are probably the last thing to do, and changes should be dictated by the aquarium's water quality (mainly, the nitrate level). With Endler's, I would not do a water change unless nitrates get to reach 30 ppm. Guppies can happily tolerate high nitrate levels. In terms of a 15l, once things settle down, a weekly water changes would be no more than 1/3rd (so no more than 5 litres each time). So, once things settle down, I would suggest a 5l change as being your weekly activity but this dependent on the numbers of fish and the level of nitrate in your tap water etc. I fully recommend the use of a cheap aquarium vacuum for water changes and for removing fish/food waste (see my video on Vacs). For most people, the initial cycling is the most concerning bit as it always generates lots of questions on the channel. So, feel free to ask... whatever! Best, Mark

[@ianbailey6067]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb hi mark I'm after some more advice please checked the reading today And the ph is 7.5 the nitrite is 0.5 the nitrate is 5.0 but is reading 0 is this normal cus I put the fish and the atm colony on Friday Thanks regards ian

[@kathleenc.8939]

Another awesome video! Is it possible to add 5-6 fancy male guppies at one time to a newly cycled 35 Liter Biorb ( I think it's 9.2 gallons) or will I need to gradually add fish...such as start with 2 and then add few more and then add a few more? My tank is not fully cycled yet but just wondered for when it is fully cycled and ready to add fish. Are fancy guppies hearty/simple fish to keep? Any guidance is appreciated. Thanks!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Kathleen. How are you cycling the tank? Did you use ammonia? My concern is how much bacteria there is to support the addition of fish on a newly cycled tank. If I was you I would follow my video about adding fish to an existing cycled tank using ATM Colony if your tank is currently cycling. With this you add all the fish in one go rather than over time and use Colony even though your tank is cycled! Doing that will easily cover adding all the new fish in one go and would provide any additional bacteria needed. Alternatively you could slowly add one or two fish at a time to the cycled tank leaving a good several or more days before adding a couple more - but always checking your ammonia and nitrates are very low before each addition. Thanks for watching.

[@kathleenc.8939]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb I am using fish flakes, Biohome filter starter balls, sponge media, and Biogravel which I think takes some time to establish bacteria in the aquarium (but seems to have effective results according to some reviews I found while going down the internet rabbit hole of fishkeeping info. )The ATM Colony looks like an awesome product! I didn't see your video about it until after I had already put the products in the tank but may still get it. I don't mind waiting to get fish and plan to wait at least 6 weeks before adding fish from the day I first started cycling the tank (mostly because I am still hoping to find an easy to understand water testing kit how -to video and water change video (and am a little apprehensive about mixing up the steps). Will you be making a water change video soon? I wondered if you could please address how much of a water change to do after the tank is cycled, how often to do water changes during (if at all) and after cycling, how to vacuum substrate, and clean tank decor? I have seen some helpful videos but many seem to speed through the process with music. I appreciate how you talk through the process and explain your steps as you do them so it is easier to visualize what needs to be done and the length of time it typically takes. Thanks!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Ah, i see. So, basically, you are adding ammonia via feeding. Yes, that works very well but will take time. Just need to keep your ammonia levels up and then stop feeding (adding ammonia) a short while before adding the fish in (to ensure the tank keeps on cycling and the bacteria is maintained enough to support the initial fish stock). I would guess look to keep your ammonia at say between 2-3 ppm (does that accord with the guidance you are following?) and using water changes to remove nitrates when they get to say over 40-50ppm. Colony is a faster way to achieve the same end result but allows you to fully stock and provides far more bacteria than needed to minimise any fish loss.. Yes, I will be covering maintenance and water changes very soon, but your question is more about the cycling process and dealing with associated water changes during that time. And, thats the video I'm doing currently. In the mean time, whilst cycling the way you are, it is more the nitrate level or ammonia peaks that will trigger when water changes are needed (and also if they are urgently needed) rather than a set time period. For me, I would say weekly water change of 10 litres to keep on top of nitrate (when around the 40-50ppm level) but undertake less changes or less amounts if nitrates are not at that level. You can either do smaller water changes more frequently or larger ones less frequently... if that makes sense? Undertake 50% (15l) if things suddenly peak up a bit too high and then repeat the same day next day if necessary. I suppose, there are various ways to deal with it so that is simply what i would. Don't get over panicked about ammonia, nitrate and nitrate levels during cycling and even when fish go in (things can go a little crazy!) . The zero ammonia and nitrate level thing you will often read about is more about what an established tank should be at. It can take months and even far longer before things really settle down. The really great thing is that, by doing it the way you are, you will really understand all key things about having an aquarium and water. Colony might be a good back-up if you plan to get it. Even more so, something like ATM Triage (only in my experience but I know other companies sell similar) would help deal with panic moments! A very big well done to you as it sounds like things are going well!

[@kathleenc.8939]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb I really appreciate the clear guidance about the water changes, helpful feedback, and Colony and ATM Triage product recommendations. Thanks!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Kathleen. I hope all is well with you. I was just wondering how you got on with your aquarium cycling etc. I know several months ago you were using Biohome media and starter balls to get the tank going so was just wondering if that all worked out okay? Best wishes, Mark

[@MariskaLupo]

Hi. I am very new to this. I just got a second hand 15 L bio orb and a plain glass 10 gallon tank. I’ve cleaned the decor according to your video with the bleach. I think I should get new ceramic media. Is one bag (450 g enough) for the 15 L? I am looking to put a beta in the 15 L. I’ve seen your video about turning down the oxygenation so the beta is comfortable. However, I think in order to cycle the tank, it needs full oxygenation. Should I cycle the ten gallon first with about 5 zebra danios, then add three danios to the 15 L bioorb until that is cycled? (I understand the zebra danios are quite hardy.) Then return the danios to the ten gallon, lower the oxygenation and add the beta? Or should I just have the beta be in a jacuzzi until the aquarium is cycled. I apologize for the long question. I am very new and really enjoy your videos. Thank you so much, Mariska

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Mariska. I would work on 1kg of media in a 15l. The biOrb Pearl Media is a better product than the standard biOrb ceramic media and is less problematic, easier to clean and has less risk of small fish getting trapped. Ideally you would need to have a good air flow for initial cycling of both tanks. I would not suggest fish-in cycling using beta as they are a bit too sensitive. Zebra Danios are far more suitable and using 5 would be about right in the 10g. Your suggestion to cycle the 10g first and then use a few danios to cycle the biOrb is well thought out and is what I would do too. Nowadays I tend to cycle using Aquavitro Seed (Seachem) as I find it tends to work well across a very wide range of water quality, temp scenarios. ATM Colony is a good product but can be temperamental in certain scenarios, causing cycling to be stalled/delayed. I've never really got to the bottom of what causes this sometimes. I hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark

[@MariskaLupo]

Thanks so much for your prompt response and it’s exactly what I needed to know. I really love your videos. I spend hours watching them. Hope you have a Happy Holiday. Thanks again

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Your'e very welcome. Glad to know the Channel is helping with things. It can be a bit of an uphill struggle when you first start! Fingers crossed, all will go smoothly but if you need any help/advice just drop me a line. Wishing all the very best over the festive period. Best, Mark

[@Benjaminbobson]

What species is the bigger fish? Great video!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. That's a Dwarf Gourami. They are a lovely fish but it is very difficult to get one that doesn't eventually come down with Dwarf Gourami Disease (incurable). Thanks, Mark

[@sallysancimino3227]

Your videos have been so helpful. Thank you.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Many thanks Sally. Really glad the videos are helping. Thanks for your support. Any advice needed please drop me a line. Best wishes. Mark

[@sarmism]

Mark, I’ve been bingeing on your videos for a few weeks now and can’t say thank you enough! One query- I have 5 gold barbs in my 30l and want to get something else if possible when my tank is stable (thanks for your advice on that on your water video by the way). I’ve checked compatibility and apparently a dwarf gourami would work with barbs, but lots of info I’ve seen says to keep them in pairs or more. I notice you have a solo gourami - how do you find it gets on? Is it male or female and does that make a different whether it wants a friend or not? Thanks once again, Pete.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Pete. Yes DG would work in this case. A few things to note with this species in that size tank… only have one male as males will fight. I think having more than one DG would take you over the capacity limit of your tank (consider a DG as a 2 inch fish). I have a single male DG in each tank and they are more than happy. So, yes, go for a single male. The various species of DG also vary in their temperament (some can be a bit moody with other fish species) and some are more prone to “DG disease”. Honey DG are probably the best choice in both cases but it’s worth just looking into that. One thing I’ve noticed with DG is that they can be prone to Glass Surfing (which I put down to certain males fighting their own reflection on the inside of the aquarium). If you find that it is normally reduced by reducing the intensity of the lighting (not having a high white light setting). I would t consider myself a “fish expert” but I hope this helps and covers what you needed to know. Best wishes and thanks for your support to the channel. Best wishes, Mark

[@sarmism]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb thanks for the quick reply! I’ll look into a DG now….I’d struck it off my list previously as I’d got the impression it needed to live in a shoal but your response makes a lot of sense and ties in with my impression from a couple of forum posts I’d seen too. Thank you!

[@nathanrains6089]

Hi Mark. I have some Stability, from Seachem. Does this work the same way as Colony? Would I follow these same steps with Stability? Also, thank you for the videos, really helpful!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Nathan. Yes, Stability works the same as Colony. There are numerous products on the market that roughly do the same thing. They all slightly vary in the dosage applied and how you apply them during cycling. In the case of Stability the tank is dosed the day before adding the fish and that is then followed by daily dosing of half the original amount - for about a week. BTW - it's a good product! Hope that helps. Any problems, just shout. Best wishes. Mark

[@nathanrains6089]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb thank you very much Mark! Greatly appreciated. We’ve followed all your advice and put in our first set of tetras today, fingers crossed!

[@alicerosfield8078]

Hi Mark, thanks for all your videos. I just want to check I am understanding it right, is this tank already cycled and then you are adding colony too when you add the fish or is this treated tap water only and then when you add colony it is effectively cycling it very quickly and you can add fish straight away. Thank you!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Alice. The video is describing fish-in cycling. The starting point is a tank full of dechlorinated water. You add some fish (hardy species are best) and a bacterial product at the same time and cycle on that basis. The added bacterial product boosts the speed normally needed for bacteria to develop and the fish provide the nutrient (ammonia) required to activate and promote the growth of the bacteria. Colony is a good product although some people struggle with cycling using it (I think this is possibly related to differences in water quality between different areas/households and also that Colony requires fairly specific conditions for it to work best). Aquavitro Seed (150ml) is probably a better choice for cycling as it requires less specific water parameters - and I get far less people reporting cycling problems: charterhouse-aquatics.com/products/aquavitro-seed-150ml?variant=40199889846407&currency=GBP&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwwr6wBhBcEiwAfMEQs_VOspSiKXX9O5zyFCfGbRSvpJ3Z_Y5AoWEwkFuMPOihKF_kBPLsSRoClywQAvD_BwE. Regardless of how you cycle a tank, the use of an aquarium heater and having good air flow will always aid cycling and the time it takes... because these conditions promote faster bacterial growth. If you click on the Description associated with this video this may also help: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bqi0ZKOshdxrea8. However, do feel free to drop me a line if you need any further help or support. Best wishes, Mark

[@matthobbs2903]

Your videos help me a lot

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Thanks Matt - great to get positive comments. Best wishes, Mark

[@Sheisher224]

I setup my new biorb yesterday and I’m following your videos step by step! I can’t wait to add fish! I dont have any in there yet, how long now that it has water in it should i wait to add the colony? Do you add the colony and wait a few days to add the fish? Or after you add the colony you add the first right away?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. A big thanks for watching the channel. I would certainly wait for a couple of days after first filling the tank before adding your fish. Use that time to really think about what fish to get. I would highly recommend you go with hardy fish for this stage - I'm happy to advise so just drop me another line. Normally with Colony you add the total fish suitable for your tank size - but you can certainly add less at first. You add Colony just before you add the fish (it can be directly before adding them or a couple of days before -it doesn't make much difference). The bacteria in Colony won't really do anything until you add the fish and then give them the very light feed. For Colony to work well you must have a heated tank (23-32 degrees C) and a pH of between 7.2 and 8. Alkalinity needs to be around 90 part per million (by taking a test for KH). There's no need to add the biOrb sachets you get with a new tank but if you have it's not a problem. If in any doubt about your water you could take a small sample of your tank water to the shop you intend to buy fish from and get them to check it all for you (most shops do that for free). As I said, if any advice needed, feel free to drop me a line. Best wishes, Mark

[@Matthew_Henley]

Do you ever use live plants?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. Yes, I do... in all tanks but more as a supplement. There are limited options in a biOrb due to their size but also the need to use ceramic media/Pearl media in a biOrb and to support water flow. The addition and use of soil type substrates wouldn't work out as it will be problematic with the biOrb filter system (which is basically an "under gravel filter"). See video here on suitable plants: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oICTaWuoZ9Kgo9k. In addition i have two tanks with Brazilian Pennywort and the plants are doing well.

[@jamiemohammed]

Hi Mark, have you had any experience of the African dwarf frog in a biorb. I do wonder if the ceramic media may not be suitable any info would be great. Thanks

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Jamie. I have no direct experience of them but I am aware they are better off on soft substrates (sand) or smooth pebbles. I would guess that Pear Media would be better than the standard biOrb substrate due to the big difference in surfaces. You might need to check... but I think they need shallow(er) aquariums and to also be in a small group (rather than being individual). I did read something about issues with feeding them too much blood worm, again another thing to check. Best, Mark

[@jamiemohammed]

Thanks Mark, think I'll give them a miss due to the ceramic media. Do you have anymore videos coming up as you do learn alot from them. How's your tanks doing ?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Jamie. Yes, I plan to do a few more videos but my "real job" is taking up a lot of my time at the moment (not to mention demanding kids!) :) All my tanks are doing fine, all ticking along nicely. I'm just waiting for my mosquito larvae containers (in the garden) to start producing so that I can move over to more live feeding. Seems to have taken far longer to get these started this year probably due to, what feels like, a prolonged winter.

[@jamiemohammed]

That’s good to hear regards the videos, yeah I’m the same (kids) 😂. My tank is doing well only the one would love to have another but it’s keeping on top of the maintenance of them which I’m doing well with just the one running. All the fish I have are doing well without any illness just over a year now. Cheers and all the best

[@victoriaelizabeth222]

Thanks for the videos. I am looking to start up a biorb tank with cold water Minnow. I will buy Aqua Safe and use your method for preparing the tank and water. My question is, is there a product I can use for quickly cycling the tank to add my fish quicker. I notice the product you use in this video is for warm water. Thanks.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Victoria. The main difference between cycling in a heated tank and a cold water tank is the time it takes to develop the bacteria and complete the full cycle. ATM indicate that temps above 74F are required to cycle a tank in the short period they describe for their product Colony. Generally 65 to 85F does provide the sweet spot for faster aquarium cycling. Temps below 65F may cause a 50% slower growth in bacteria. So, it isn't that bacteria will not grow, it is that it will take much longer for that to happen. The benefit of using ATM Colony is that you can fully stock the aquarium with fish from day one. With a cold water tank it would be far better to introduce your fish over time, rather than in one go. Say, just two or three initially. Give it a couple of weeks and if the tank is then cycling, add another two or three fish etc. I would certainly avoid adding too many fish in one go to a cold water aquarium due to the time taken to develop the bacteria. I believe that the Dr Tim's One and Only product is less hung-up on temp requirements, and I have heard from people having success with this product. But, again, regardless of what product you use to add initial bacteria I would go with the idea of adding only a few fish initially. One of the very best ways to speed up the cycling of any aquarium is to add some gravel or material from an already established aquarium. This would transfer ("seed") the already established bacteria in your tank. Do you know anybody with an aquarium? Best, Mark

[@victoriaelizabeth222]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Wow! really helpful. Thank you.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

You're very welcome :). Cycling is probably the most difficult part of owning an aquarium. A key thing to get is a decent water quality test kit. The one i use on this video is probably the best (it's advisable to avoid test strips for assessing how cycling is going). If you have any issues/ concerns please let me know. M

[@victoriaelizabeth222]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hey just thought I’d let you know that instead of the BiOrb sachets, I’ve decided to get my BiOrb going with Aqua Care Bio-Boost and Aqua Care Tap Water Conditioner. Both say can be used on Cold Water tanks. The Bio-Boost for new start ups is added over 3 days, so still relatively quick to enable fish.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Thanks Victoria. There are so many products out there it isn't always easy to choose which one is best to use! I have total faith in ATM Colony as Ive cycled endless numbers of tanks with this product, but they have all been heated. But, yes, forget the biOrb sachets! I'm sure this product will be fine, as it is adding bacteria over a three day period. So, just follow the instructions very closely. From what I understand the product is basically a "part fishless cycle" to start with (so, it is used to get things going in the tank initially) so it may need you to add some daily fish food to get the ammonia input needed to establish the bacteria. I assume, after the initial few days, the aim is to then to add fish gradually over time... which is certainly the approach I would take in an unheated tank. Cold water minnows (a great fish!) are very hardy so they are a really good choice in this case. Please keep me posted on how the cycling is going as it would be good to hear about how it works out. Really appreciate your input to the Channel... Best wishes, Mark

[@sjakiem7133]

hey! Thanks for your video series! I bought one because of it. I've set it up, and my next step is to add fish. I didn't exactly follow the steps you explained, so i want to make sure it is safe to add the fish anyway. The aquarium is now running for only a few days. I did not use aquasafe or any other product to make my tapwater safe. Instead i just ran a few tests seem to show good results (chloride close to 0, PH between 7.2 and 7.6, GH >7 ). Since ATM colony is not easy available here, i bought Colombo Bacto Start, which i think is similar. Is it sufficient to just add the Bacto Start and the fish as explained in this video? I am asking because my local dealer told me that starting up an aquarium should take about 4 weeks, and also instructions i found for Colombo Bacto Start mention a product similar to aquasafe. According to those after adding bacto start and aqua start, it takes two weeks before you add decoration and plants, and then after 4 weeks if tests confirm that a balance is met, add the fish... What's your opinion? Is it still safe for me to add fish or should i make sure to use something like aquasafe first? I do have a Biorb maintenance package that comes with 2 sachets for roughly the same i believe.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. If you have chlorine etc in your tap water you would need to apply a dechlorinator but it doesn’t need to be the product I use. Any suitable product should do the same and the products also deal with metals and a range of other things common in tap water. You will need this product for every time you do a water change which is probably a weekly activity. I would suggest that if you can’t obtain ATM Colony on line that you use a similar product that adds bacteria. I dont really understand the advice you have received as bacteria need a food supply to grow (with Colony this is achieved from the ammonia produced by an initial feed and then from the fish that you added. As i do not know the products available to you I would suggest that you follow the instructions very closely in terms of growing the bacteria and the time taken to add fish. There are numerous good products on the market but I’m not sure what is available to you so it’s not easy for me to advise the best approach for those products. Best, Mark

[@sjakiem7133]

Thanks Mark! I rebuilt the aquarium using AquaSafe to be sure. Here in the Netherlands i think Chlorine is prohibited in tapwater, but it'll probably have other benefits to use aquasafe. I added Bacto Start, and i am now in the process of introducing a few guppies, a dwarf lobster and an algae eater. My local dealer advised against it, because as he explained, the aquarium would need a few weeks to naturally grow some common bacteria. Only adding in my case Bacto start wouldn't give enough bacteria to process the waste of the fish...

[@sjakiem7133]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb All seems to go well.. Fish are in for 2,5 days now. I did a light feed when they got in. I tested for nitrate and nitrite a few times. No nitrite present yet. It feels a bit uncomfortable to not feed the fish. But most of em seem to be still very lively. I have one guppy that i am not sure of if he just has a favourite spot in the left upper corner of the tank. He does leave that spot once in a while. But since i'm completely new, i can't really say if its that or if he's not feeling well / needs food. And since i have 2 mini lobsters and a relatively large algae eater ( i forgot to remember what species, believe its an Otocinclus Catfish 6-7cm in size) that i have different food for, should i just be patient and trust the feeding procedure, or can i add another light feed before the 4th day?

[@ianbailey6067]

Hi just been given a 15lt life biorb with a heater and have set it up by using your part1 and part2 excellent channel I must say put aqua safe in and decor and left it running I've not added of the water treatment sachets that come with the filter how many days do I need to keep it running before I add my first fish and do I need to add anything at this stage I am going to get some endlers and use the atm colony in your video also how many fish are suitable for this size tank thanks regards ian

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Ian. Thanks for your support in watching the channel... really appreciated. Also, great sir name too. Us Baileys should stick together! Yes, follow my video about adding your first fish using ATM colony Freshwater. What you have done to date is perfect, no need to add biOrb sachets.... only Aqua Safe. I would normally suggest running the aquarium for several days - but mainly just to check your temp is reasonably constant and looking for a regular 24 - 25 degrees temp...this being the sweet spot. Actually, the tank is probably good to go all ready! Endler's are probably my fav fish (by a long way)! In a 15L you are going to be very limited with numbers I'm afraid! But, just stick with Endler's and add no other fish species. So, for a 15l I suggest using the 1" inch per gallon yardstick to start with (as there is little else as a guide!). So, this is a max of 4 Endler's (all males) for this size tank. Don't add females!! Four is a good starting point though. After that, give it a couple of months for the tank to establish and to let the fish settle in. We can then look at how things are going in terms of adding one or two more. Establishing a new aquarium is by far the hardest bit so feel free to shout if you need any advice at all (there isn't such thing as a stupid question!). Check that your water parameters are about right for using Colony (the label states what is needed - with pH being a key thing for Colony and for Endler's). Great to hear from you, Best. Mark B!

[@ianbailey6067]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb hi mark thanks for your response back good to know that you have a good knowledge on these biorb no doubt I'll be asking you for more brilliant advice I'm leaving the tank running for a few days like to said to settle before I add my first fish with the atm colony do I need to test the water now with the kit before I introduce the fish thanks regards ian

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Ian. Yes, do a water tests now as that sets your baseline before adding fish. Some of this info you could get from your water suppliers website (they will show average ph, nitrate etc) but it is far better to do your own. The very key things from the test is the nitrate level of your tap water and also the pH. The key thing for Colony working well (i.e. establishing beneficial bacteria quickly) is a water temp over 23 degrees C and pH of 7.2 and above. pH of over 7 will also suit Endler's. The indication of the bacteria establishing/growing is to see an increase of nitrate against the baseline (tap water) nitrate level (this indicates the bacteria are establishing in the tank and are converting the ammonia created by the fish into nitrite and then a second type of bacteria are converting that into the far less harmful nitrate). That's why you need to roughly know your tap water nitrate level as you want to see that level increasing in the aquarium as it cycles. Hope that makes sense. Best, Mark

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Ian. I do need to get far better at this KZbin thing, so... if you liked the video, please give it a thumbs up and if you value this channel please Subscribe. It all helps. :) Shout if there is anything else I can help with. Best, Mark

[@ianbailey6067]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb hi mark thanks very much for your advice so far I've added 4 Male endlers today with the atm colony there a energetic bunch gave them a little like feed one of the smaller ones got stuck in the ceramic media but was rescued quickly with no adverse effects just wanted to no how many days after the fish are in do I check the water parameters and how many days after to do the water change and how many litres to take out of the 15lt tank thank you for your support in the channel and advice sometimes I think these biorb tanks get a bad wrap kind regards ian

[@donnabenvin7294]

Thank you, great video!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Glad you liked it! M

[@Ohana-do6hl]

Hi. Thank you so much for your videos, it’s become a new hyper focus for my ADHD 😂 quick question if that’s okay. We have purchased a male Betta fish and three guppies which we’ll be collecting from the shop on Thursday. The Betta is already in the same tank with the guppies and seems placid so feeling hopeful that he’ll be okay with them here. My only query is how long should I leave it before adding more fish? I don’t want to ruin the condition of the water. As much as we’d love different species, I think we’ll be sticking with the male Betta, guppies and a couple of shrimp to avoid problems with aggression. I have the 35l BiOrb Tube :) thank you in advance

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Nikita. Thanks for watching the channel and for commenting. Hopefully getting those fish in and all happy will help your disorder (eventually!!) LOL :-). Your Betta will be fine, they are often very placid and very sweet despite all the bad press. If he is already in with other fish anyway he will certainly be super fine. So, first question, is the tank already cycled (i.e. are these additional fish you are adding to existing fish? Or are you cycling with these fish and asking when you could then add some further fish? If cycling, are you using ATM Colony,. Best, Mark

[@Ohana-do6hl]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi Mark :) first four fish went in today as the water tests were all perfect. We couldn’t find the Colony solution locally (Guernsey) so used API Stress Coat and Quick Start. We also have a number of real plants on wood - Java Fern and the other one you recommended beginning with A (hopefully that makes sense!). I was planning on testing the water over the week and then assuming all is still good next weekend, looking at adding some more fish on Saturday. Would this be the correct way to do it? Are there any other species that would go well with our Betta and guppies? The guppies are beautiful however tend to stick to a shoal so now considering adding in something else to add some variety 😊 many thanks!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Nikita. You will need to take it very easy using that method of cycling. So, I suggest that you don't feed the fish until the tank is showing some progress in its cycling. But, you need to avoid a spike in ammonia at this stage using Quick Start. Not adding food is the best way to do this. Fish can survive for well over a week (even weeks) without food so they will be fine. You will need to concentrate on ammonia and nitrite levels initially. I suggest testing those two things every day during cycling (especially ammonia initially). Please let me know if your ammonia reads over 2 ppm. You will need to know the nitrate level to assess if the tank is properly cycling as you will need to see the aquarium's nitrate increase compared to the level in your tap. Can I ask what tap nitrate level is? Tap nitrate levels will determine how many fish your tank will support (but, so does pH). Cycling using Quick Start is likely to be between 1 - 2 weeks. Later on, at that size of tank, you may be able to have up to 9 x one-inch size fish (I would consider the betta to be equivalent to 2 fish in this case). I wouldn't add any further fish for say 3-4 weeks until you understand how the aquarium is doing. I would certainly suggest that when you do get to the point of adding further fish you will find it easier (safer) using ATM Colony. Perhaps you could order a small bottle online for that? Fish to add to what you have would probably be further numbers of guppies (to increase the shoal size up to the numbers they prefer). But, in term of other fish, I suggest Endler's (first choice) or rasboras or danios. Hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

BTW - you could add shrimps but it is best to do this when the tank is matured a bit. Shrimps aren't best suited to cycling as they tend to be sensitive to water quality variations (associated with cycling). M

[@Ohana-do6hl]

Thank you so much for the advice :) will test daily and let you know how I go. For the tap readings, I assume I just test straight tap water? Definitely been considering shrimp so appreciate the advice on holding off before adding them :)

[@rickyevans5027]

What food are you using it's berry fine

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Ricky. In the video I used Hikari Fancy Guppy. But, it can be any fish food to start the cycling process if that is why you are asking. I vary what i give my fish so I also give them Hikari Micro Pellets and Tetra Mini Flakes. I tend to vary the food through the week. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching. Best, Mark

[@skyoakes-nash8639]

Hi - really helpful - thank you 😊🐠🐡🐟

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Many thanks for visiting the Channel and for watching. Much appreciated. Also see me more recent video on adding fish here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bqi0ZKOshdxrea8 Best wishes, Mark

[@victoriaelizabeth222]

Hello! Long time no speak to. I hope you and your Bi-orbs are well. Me and my fish are ok. My gold cloud minnows have had babies and I have a few thriving babies! I think my Platy’s might be next, going by their behaviour! We have a 30ltr classic. I just wondered if you could tell me if I can have my fish in ANY 30ltr Bi-orb? Or do some 30ltr tanks have a different recommendation on number of fish, according to the tank shape? Sorry for the strange Question!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hey, hello! Yes, long time no speak. Really (really!) great to hear from you. Glad to hear you and your fish are well. And the fish must be... if they are having babies! In terms of aquarium shape, the number of fish that can be supported is far more related to water volume. Basically, the larger the volume of aquarium water the larger the number of fish you can have. Larger tanks will also support larger fish species. So, it has little to do with tank shape, and this especially not the case between the different shape variations of biOrbs. Certain species may prefer to have a deeper tank (water column), so the taller Tube shaped biOrbs are probably a better match, in that case. The "1" per gallon" yardstick still generally applies across all the biOrb shapes/ sizes (at least as a starting point when deciding how many fish to get). Keep in touch! Best wishes to you. Mark x

[@victoriaelizabeth222]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thanks Mark! That’s really helpful. How would I go about swapping tanks? Just literally swap the lot over? I know I would need another box of pearl media, as the classic only takes one box. Hope you and your family are enjoying the holidays.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Never a problem. :) If you plan to close down the existing tank and start a new one, I think, in your case, it is just a matter of swapping the whole lot over to a new tank. I would prepare the new tank as normal so that it ready to add water (i.e. adding the new Pearl Media, say 2kg). I would then transfer about 50% of your existing tank water to the new tank and also add your existing pearl media, decor, plants etc so that your existing tank is only holding fish and 50% water. I would certainly use a vac to gently transfer the water from one tank to the other similar to what I show here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gqrCeZqLq9GZd80. Add a further 25% fresh water (warmed and dechlorinated) to the new tank. Switch across the heater and then turn the new tank on (airflow, heating). Then move across the fish. Netting them out is probably the best way (although catching fish is not always easy!). You should then have a new tank running with fish etc holding 75% water. I suggest boosting the new tank with a dose of beneficial bacteria (e.g. AquaVitro Seed or Colony Freshwater). Leave the new tank running for a couple of hours and then add the further 25% of fresh water (warmed and dechlorinated). It is just worth keeping an eye on ammonia during the first couple of days, but I would very much doubt you would see any rise - as your existing Pearl Media, that you've added to the new tank, already has a suitable amount of bacteria to support your fish population. It's all fairly straightforward really but best done using the stages I suggest above. Let me know if I've missed anything. Hope that helps. Best, Mark

[@victoriaelizabeth222]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Brilliant! Thanks for the Step by Step! ;)

[@victoriaelizabeth222]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thanks for this! So sorry for late reply. Hope you are well.

[@sidneyharvey8251]

Great videos mark, your videos are very informative. I’ve got a question for you if you don’t mind, when cycling with atm colony will this handle the nitrite spike you get in the cycle progress or would I need to be adding a product like seachem prime to detoxify the nitrite? Thank you in advance

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Sidney. ATM Colony is basically a blend of specific bacteria to support cycling. I'm not sure ATM fully claim that their product detoxifies nitrite peaks... although adding further doses of Colony should help to reduce such peaks by simply adding more bacteria. Seachem (and various others) do claim their product detoxifies nitrate and render it harmless to fish for a period of time - you need to keep applying it. Whether such products really do this is debated. Anyway, putting that aside, when using Prime, nitrate will still show as a high reading in your water when using a test kit. By all means, use Prime, for this purpose and apply if the spike gets high. The key thing to note is that the beneficial bacteria you need to establish in the tank both need levels of ammonia and nitrite to properly establish, so levels of both nutrients are needed. Nitrite will tend to rise to 0.5ppm and may certainly increase above that. For me, the issue is a bit less about the nitrite rise but how long it hangs around for. Clearly, a product such as Prime is intended for this prolonged duration stage. For Colony to work properly the exact requirements, stated on the bottle, must be met (temp, pH, total alkalinity). If so, cycle can be achieved fairly quickly and be straightforward. If not, the cycle can be prolonged/problematic. So, the first important thing it to check your tank parameters are totally correct. Note: I would suggest the use of Aquavitro Seed if all the parameters will not be met for Colony (I have cycled using this products for others when the parameters didn't exactly meet those for Colony). I prefer to keep things simple when using Colony, which are: Add the suggested dose of Colony (more is fine!) Cycle with a smaller number of fish that are hardy (certainly not sensitive to changes in water conditions, forget shrimps and neon tetras!). A few zebra danios are a good choice. Feed initially very lightly (feed an amount equivalent to one eyeball of each fish every two days). Control any ammonia or nitrite spikes by stopping food inputs until the levels drop. Note: fish will still produce ammonia even without food being present. But, feel free to use Prime if you think this would help. If nitrite levels get too high, use a part water change to reduce it down (say 1/3rd). But, try to avoid undertaking water changes soon after adding bacteria as it normally takes bacteria several days to adhere to surfaces and start to duplicate and undertake ammonia/nitrite conversion. Before that, many bacteria will be just floating around in the water column and not doing a great deal. One of the very best ways to limit the period of cycling and any high peaks in ammonia/ nitrite is to initially seed the tank with bacteria taken from another existing aquarium (substrate, filter sponges etc). Such bacteria will "hit the ground running" when added to the aquarium and therefore the new tank would already have established bacteria from day one and will kick-off cycling much earlier. Sorry that's a long answer to such a short question! Hope it helps. Best, Mark

[@sidneyharvey8251]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi Mark, Thank you so much for in depth reply, fully took on board what you have said. the reason I asked about prime is after I’ve adding fish (4 harlequin 1 dwarf gourami) along with 35ml of colony and a small pinch of crushed flake, (I have a Biorb flow 30), my tank nitrite spiked to 0.5ppm on day 2 and I lost a fish, ph is 7.8 and tds is 183, these have seem to have stayed stable since adding the treated water with stress coat , I’m on day 3 today and nitrite has dropped to 0.25ppm and now showing nitrate around 10 ppm so it definitely going in the right direction, i have not fed since adding fish, Im going to feed them on day 4 is this correct?. I was just curious if it was the nitrite spike that could of cause the loss, and would prime prevented this or at least helped the situation as it’s unclear on the colony instructions if it detoxifies these bacteria, I’ve orders abit toe of prime from Amazon as it has very good reviews anyway and probably good to keep for emergencies. just want to point out the fish seem to be doing fine and the dwarf is swimming around and looks stunning in the different light reflections,

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi again. Sounds like you cycle is going extremely well, the drop in nitrite and rise in nitrate is a clear sign of cycle progression. Well done! Fingers crossed another couple of days should see the cycle completed. To be really honest, I would be surprised if the rise of nitrite (to the level you mention and for that duration) would cause the loss of fish. Your TDS is good, pH is possibly a little high but fish will often acclimatise. Are you able to find out what pH and GH levels are maintained by your supplier for the harlequins?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Oops. In terms of feeding on day four. This should be fine - but, again, just a very small amount. If you harlequins are small in size (juvenile) then a tiny bit of food now is probably a good thing. Larger fish would be fine to go a day or two longer without food. Feeding too early can result in a slight lift in ammonia (or not!) and a rise in nitrite (or not!) but as you are showing conversion through to nitrate I think you're fine. After a week, when ammonia is at zero (ish) and nitrite low, then a very light feed every couple of days is probably okay. Keep on testing the water daily though, to make sure the cycle is progressing in the right way with the addition of food. But, from the sounds of it you already have your head around this and have it cracked! :)

[@sidneyharvey8251]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi Mark, so I actually tested the water that the fish came in as I was curious whether to add that water in to my aquarium or not, the suppliers ph was slightly higher at 8, ammonia showed 0, nitrite 0, nitrate looked to be around 40 mark, using the api freshwater test kit. As the nitrate and ph were higher than my tank I decided not to add the water and net the fish out of the bag after acclimatising, (thinking about it, could this may have stressed one of the fish? ) the tds was slightly lower but not by much as the aquarium I purchased from is very local to me. Kh and gh I did not specifically test as I do not have these tests, maybe thinking I should buy these tests if this makes a big difference to the water quality. sorry if I sound green this is all new to me

[@SjefVanOekelDraaftDoor]

Hi Mark, unfortunately my DG has become aggressive towards the other fish (5 Rasboras), hunts them and even already killed two (3 left). He keeps hunting the others. Do you know what can cause this and what I can do about it? Thanks and best, Roel.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Roel. Sorry to hear that... That is fairly unusual! The one's I've had may occasionally stalk other fish but would never go any further than that. More of case of just sneaking up on other fish. After a while I found the other fish just tended to ignore them doing this, which seems to take the fun out of it for the DG Generally, they are considered a good community fish. It could be early signs of DGD, or just simply that you have been unlucky and taken on an aggressive fish. The fish species DG don't get on too well with are those similar to themselves - similar colour and size. This is probably because they confuse some other fish as being another male DG. They are nearly always considered fine to mix with rasboras etc. Is it possible the shop might take him back? Seems to be a good reason that the shop might consider it. Best, Mark

[@SjefVanOekelDraaftDoor]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hello Mark, Thank you. After the DG has "cleaned up" there seems to be balance and peace again. Maybe the DG tolerates only a few other fish - I don't know, but I will take a chat with the shop owner. Best to you - Roel

[@SjefVanOekelDraaftDoor]

Hi again Mark. Now the "disaster" is complete: the DG has killed them all. I talked to the shop owner but he's not interested in taking the DG back. So I really don't know what to do now and maybe you have an advice for me. Shall I try with another kind of fish like the Zebra Danio, try with other DGs (females?) or shall I let i be alone in the tank... Best/Roel

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. Yes, that is a total disaster. Putting aside DGD, I've never had this problem and they have even left shrimps alone! I'm very surprised by the response given by the supplier. Ideally you would need to rehouse him- but clearly, he might not be everyone's cup of tea! Your alternative might be to set-up an all DG tank. This is best done by outnumbering males with females (say... 1 to 3 ratio). Or add just go with adding a few females with him. This might end-up being of trail and error, I can only assume he would be fine with DG females around him. When you got him was he in a mixed fish tank or with other DGs?

[@SjefVanOekelDraaftDoor]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb hi, I just talked to him again and he thinks I should kill the DG because he thinks he will do it again to other fish. He also mentioned that a DG maybe is to big for a 30 liters and adviced 2 red honey gurami e.g. or only 4-6 small fish. When I purchased the DG it was among other DGs. No other species. Thanks. Roel

[@Riley095]

Phew it's a gourami I thought that was a goldfish for a second.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

LOL. Yes a DG. Although a goldfish might live longer! :)

[@Riley095]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb true lol

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Thanks for your comments...appreciated. Certainly made me smile :)

[@FionaclarkClark]

Hikari is the best fish food.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Yes, they are really great. Best food though = live mosquito larvae, by a very long way!