biOrb Aquarium | Some key things to get before you start a biOrb

[@richardchamberlain7211]

Great video, exactly what I was looking for. My wife bought the 30 litre before xmas and put 3 goldfish in there after 2 days. I never knew anything about fish keeping but when one got sick I took action. I have pretty much all the equipment you advised. The fish are doing fine now, but in your opinion will my tank ever cycle with 3 goldfish? The Amonia is zero and has been for a while, but I cannot get the nitrites to go away. i am using Seachem prime almost daily. I wonder if when I am cleaning the tank (taking the media out and giving it a rinse in the old tank water, and squeezing the sponge out in the same old water) If I am killing off the good bacteria, or if its just the fact that 3 goldfish produce too much waste for the tank size. they are only about 2-3 inches in size, but I am aware they will get bigger. Any thoughts here? thanks

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Richard. Are you using a heated tank and is the airstream going though the tank's tube a good flow (i.e. like when you first bought the tank?)? What is pH?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Also, what is your nitrate ppm prior to doing a water change and are your water tests indicating a rising nitrate level compared to what is in your tap water? How often are you cleaning the ceramic media and is there a lot of fish waste/food present under it each time? Cleaning the sponge filter, how you describe, is fine but don't let it get too messy and if so replace it with a new one. Bacteria are largely associated with the ceramic media rather than the sponge filter (which is there to trap waste). If you are worried about putting in a new sponge though, cut a new one in half, cut the old one in half and replace in the filter using half of each.

[@richardchamberlain7211]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb hi thanks for getting back. I have changed the air stone recently, so it’s going as well as it did when new. It’s not a heated tank. And the ph from what I can tell is closest matched to 7.5. I’ll check and answer the other questions below. Thank you

[@richardchamberlain7211]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb I tend to check amonia and nitrite daily but not nitrate as regular. But there is definitely more nitrite and nitrate in my tank compared to the tap water (which shows very small traces of both). Amonia has always been zero and nitrite is about 0.5 to 1 ppm every morning. I dose 1 ml of prime each day to keep it at bay. Since I first got the tank in December I have only cleaned the media twice by moving it all out into a bucket and rinsing it around in the old tank water. There was quite a lot of fish waste underneath the media both times I did this, I used the syphon and let the filter to rid as much of this as I could (then squeezing the filter out again) before putting the media back in. Could this old waste be my problem? Should I remove the media more often to get all the debris out from underneath? I was worried about killing the bacteria. Sorry for the info overload, any advice would be greatly appreciated as i would love to see 0 amonia and 0 nitrate one day. I’m working through your awesome vids. Thank you

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Richard. Thanks for getting back. My initial thoughts, and I'm really, really, sorry to say this (and without knowing a lot more detail from you), but the goldfish you have are probably not best suited to your aquarium size (you've already mentioned they are likely to get bigger. Goldfish, even just one, are best suited to larger aquariums). Putting that aside, it seems like your aquarium hasn't properly cycled and is somehow stuck part the way through. Which, I think, was your original comment. Bacteria associated with conversion of nitrite do take longer to grow and establish and that may help explain the high water nitrite levels you are getting. Sounds like your aquarium has been stuck like that for a while. Your pH is good. But, we need to show increasing nitrates to indicate cycling is happening to some degree. Due to you having a non-heated tank, and combined with having goldfish, it is going to take some time to get any form of reasonable cycling, but you are going to need to keep up with fairly regular water changes. Heating the tank would greatly help the process at this stage, as you could heavily dose your tank with beneficial bacteria (probably worth doing anyway!) using ATM Colony but this product requires a water temp higher than you have to work properly. Possibly look at another similar product? One of my Subscribers has done extremely well with Pets at Home 'Love Fish Filter Boost Beneficial Aquarium Bacteria'. This might work, but it depends on the temp requirements of that product (I don't know!). Also, do you know anybody with an established aquarium that could let you have some of their media or filter sponge? If so, get as much as you can and add to your tank! Normally beneficial bacteria need 24-25 degrees C to build in number and work well. Temps below 18 degrees reduce bacteria growth by about half! My gut feeling is that your fish are producing more waste than the bacteria can grow to support it. Yes, Prime will help to reduce toxicity for the time being, and if you use the much more elevated levels they indicate on their website. But that isn't really solving the basic problem and is providing a much needed but short term fix. Regular water changes (1/3rd), every couple of days, may help too and is the way I would go. I'd certainly suggest not feeding the fish for 3-4 days to reduce the nutrient input and to allow the bacteria associated with nitrite conversion to build up. Feed the fish again very lightly for a few days, and then don't feed for another several days! Ignore the demands of fish for feed. However, once you get passed this stage and into cycling there will be a point where your fish will continue to grow and will very likely to need to be re-homed. Please keep in touch as I will help as much as I can.

[@kathleenc.8939]

This video is terrific! I especially appreciate your helpful tips, product recommendations, and honesty in sharing what you think is needed before cycling a Biorb tank based on your fish keeping experiences. I had lots of questions before seeing your video about testing strips vs. the API kit , how to measure out the water (love the bucket and permanent marker idea!), and what bacteria to add, etc. and tried to look online. It's honestly like going down a rabbit hole when trying to find answers on the internet, and I am relieved that most of the questions I had about what I need prior to cycling a tank were answered in this video. Thanks!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Thank you. Yes, Im trying to pitch it at what works for me. It's easy to get caught-up, and go all round the houses, with all the different contrasting views out there. Basically, it's about what i think works. Back to basics... and forget the rest during the early days :) Glad you like the marked bucket approach too, works brilliantly for regular water changes and using 5l water bottles.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

BTW, yes API Master Test kit I would say is an essential especially with a new aquarium. Once things settle down the strips are then good for doing the weekly checks (much quicker) and are indicative of anything not going right. You can revert to then double checking if anything is not right with the API Kit. Once beyond cycling and settling in the tank the best strips for regular checks (weekly) would be the 6 in 1 Tetra strips.

[@kathleenc.8939]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb If possible, could you please make a how- to video on using the API Master Kit to test the water in an aquarium? It seems that lots of fish keepers recommend the API Master Kit but I did not find much on the internet beyond various video and comparison reviews and recommendations that it is the more accurate testing kit to purchase for testing water. Thank you!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Kathleen. Yes, no problem. I am currently working on a video that discusses the results of using colony on the two aquariums. I can add a bit on the end of that to show how to use the API Test kit. The instructions that come with the kit are very good and take you through each one - but I will show you how I do it. Again, as always, thanks for watching, Mark

[@kathleenc.8939]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thanks so much Mark! Looking forward to seeing the Colony results and API test video.

[@peterjones4112]

Some really great advice here. really appreaicte how you standardise things to make things far more straightforward. what a great channel. love the marked-up bottles and bucket idea too.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Glad it was helpful!

[@johnnycruz4407]

I have three BiOrb Classic 105l. Love these aquariums.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Wow. That's amazing! I'll probably get round to getting a 105l eventually. Great to hear from you. Best, Mark

[@juliejeffery2063]

Brilliant videos and so personable. Really fine them enjoyable, easy to watch and listen to. Can't wait for the next and the journey of learning

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Glad you like them and I hope you find them useful. Best wishes, Mark

[@freddopug175]

Thanks for all the information. I am just going for my first water change so is very helpful

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Thanks Freddo, very much appreciated. Hope all is well with you I will be doing some videos to cover each of the different types of water changes shortly but intend to cover the preparation of a brand new aquarium first. Thanks so much for watching.

[@freddopug175]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb how i can send you some pictures of mine?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

I don't think youtube allows pics to be posted in comments anymore so use my email.

[@freddopug175]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb i will :)

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Freddo. How are things with you? Is that aquarium still going ok?

[@suellie3391]

Excellent video!! Thank you Mark

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Thanks Sue. If I was going to to do this video all again I would certainly add an aquarium vac to the essential list. They are really well suited to biOrbs (and very low cost). I'd go as far as saying they are an essential item! Best, Mark.

[@donnabenvin7294]

Another great video, thank you 😊 Just ordered another biorb cube 8 gallon.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Many thanks Donna. Always good to hear from you and thanks for your support. A Cube's a great choice. Any problems with getting it started (cycled) let me know. Take care. Mark

[@jamesdoyle3885]

Excellent video once again, these tips are really making me think more about water quality. Recently purchased the bio orb 30l halo, really interested in how to cycle my tank correctly before adding any fish. Thanks for the video, just subscribed to your channel 👍 Ps silly question maybe, but do i need to clean the ceramic media that came in the bag before placing it in the tank?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi James. Thanks for supporting my channel. I'm glad the videos are helping. In terms of setting up, my more recent videos are probably the ones to watch. This one should help in terms of set up: studio.kzbin.infoLy_HgUvlfAk/edit. Also, read the Description that accompanies this video as that also provides information (click on Show More just below the video) For ceramic media (and also biOrb Pearl Media) the only thing you need to do is to soak and rinse the media, mainly to remove dust. You need to remove as much dust as possible, to avoid the dust reducing the clarity of your aquarium's water. . The amount of dust you get in a bag of biOrb media is highly variable. It may need a few rinses to properly clean it. My suggestion is not to rinse ceramic media under tap water, as described by biOrb. I prefer to use buckets of water containing dechlorinator (e.g. AquaSafe). BTW It wasn't a silly question... It's a good one! :) Best, Mark

[@multioptipupiloptomy]

Thanks for this excellent video! I am about to buy my kiddo one of these biOrbs... and I already know it will be mine anyways. Also I love your watch :D

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. Thanks for watching and nice to hear from you. If you intend to get a number of fish for the aquarium I suggest a 30l tank or larger. A heated tank will give you a broader range of options with fish choice and will really help you prepare ("cycle") the aquarium for the fish. See my video on 'How to add fish' as that steps you through a quick and safe way to add all your fish. Yep, i know the situation - buy for the kids - parents do all the hard work, all the cleaning and get all heartache! Thanks for getting in touch. If any advice needed feel free to drop me a line. Don't forget to Subscribe - even if it's only for the sake of my watch!! Lol! :-). Best, Mark

[@multioptipupiloptomy]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thanks for the tips. Actually I was about to buy the Tube 35. Hopefully there is less distortion in this model compared to competitors. Regarding heat: for the first run we will go with fishes that don't require tropical conditions. As this is going to be new to me too, I try to keep the complexity as low as possible :D I guess we will only have two fishies to start with. thanks again! one new subscriber :)

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

yes, good choice re the Tube. Very nice. Okay, if you aren't going for a heater it will take time to build up beneficial bacteria in the tank, so just make sure to add your fish slowly and over time. Just a couple of hardy fish at first, leave it a few weeks then add another couple etc. Take care, M

[@scottp4547]

Looking at getting one of these lovely tanks , Cud you help me on couple aspects tho, do they need cleaning out? And the filter at bottom of the tube, how wil I no when it needs changing? I’m a novice and need some help before I Purchase etc

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Scott. Yes, (unfortunately) they certainly need cleaning out as they are all self-contained (no water flows going in and out and then being cleaned through a separate system). I've just released a video about Water Changes which will probably give you some insight, so have a look at that. The mechanical filter (sponge part) needs cleaning or replacing roughly every month. That frequency (and whether it just needs cleaning-out or replacing) also depends on how many and what type of fish you have. Some fish produce high levels of waste (e.g. goldfish) and they would not be high on my list of choice (they also need much bigger tanks!). Changing the filter though is really easy, 10-15 minutes and then you're done! If you are going to get an aquarium (biOrb or not) and want to keep a number of fish I would suggest a 30 litre tank or larger. I would probably go as far as saying that all aquariums of this sort of size will need regular cleaning and maintenance. Hope that helps. Nice to hear from you, and thanks for watching. Best, Mark

[@scottp4547]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb thanks for your help, have purchased the 30 litre clear glass tank this afternoon, thanks for vids tho r very helpful

[@SarahWalton-xo7sg]

Thanks for this video.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

You're welcome! :-)

[@denisetilley3559]

I'm so excited about getting my BiOrb! For my pee brain would you think about mentioning Metric and US weights? I have to convert everything you talk about regarding weights and measurements. Thank you so much.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Lol. Yes, I'll try. My brain is the opposite and only works in metric. I'll try to add the US conversion in the text that I often add in to videos.

[@vinylninja]

Really useful video + channel - I'm thinking it would be a great idea if you could do a video on which fish could be suitable to a biorb and how many fish a 30l,60l etc can contain. Thanks for your efforts!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. Thanks so much for watching and commenting. Yes, I agree. To date I have avoided that as my view was that people's choice in fish is such a personal thing. But, it is often the part that goes wrong. I will do one covering fish selection and numbers shortly. Thanks for your thoughts as these are very much appreciated and I want to cover topics that subscribers will find useful. Best, Mark

[@vinylninja]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb well as someone who is completely new to this and as valuable as your input is I’ll take your list and probably pick my favourite out of those 😂

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Well, it's straight forward really. As a general starting point, the general rule for the number of fish for an aquarium is 1" per US gallon (or 1" per 3.5 litres). A one inch fish is the fishes body length - excluding the tail. Fish choice will depend on whether the aquarium will be heated or not (heated tanks offer more options for a larger number of fish species choice and are much easier support "aquarium cycling". See my video about adding your first fish. For the the initial stages, with a beginner and also a new tank, I suggest going for fish described as being "hardy" - If you search "hardy aquarium fish" on the internet you should find them easily (such as guppies, endler's, danios). A really good thing (and will make your life far easier) is to match your fish choice with your water supply pH (tap water). If you currently don't have the means to test tap water pH go to your suppliers website and find their 'water quality' page. This should tell you the average tap water pH levels. When you establish the pH level let me know what that is and I can advise regarding the best fish (or fish combination) for you to consider. Also, let me know what aquarium size you have or are planning to get. Hope that helps for now. Best, Mark

[@vinylninja]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Brilliant info, thank you! Just checking and it looks like the PH level is an average of 7.28 - I am going to get either a 60L or 105L, not yet decided :)

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

That's a good pH and covers the tolerance range of most tropical species. pH 7 is considered the perfect level for a mixed aquarium but yours is almost at that so isn't worth messing around with. . So, typically danios, barbs, minnows, tetras (although some can be sensitive to cycling) betta, dwarf gourami, rasboras would all be fine (just need to get the correct mix that get along if you want to have mixed species). If you want to include either a betta or a gourami (don't get one of each!) drop me a line as you would need to get one that has the right temperament to be in a mixed fish aquarium. Watch my video about adding your first fish - I always recommend using ATM Colony (Freshwater) for cycling an aquarium as I have never lost any fish or had an issue using this product. Colony also allows you to fully stock the tank with fish on day one (it needs a heated tank and pH above 7.2. All you need is a dechlorinator (e.g aquasafe) for your tap water treatment and a small bottle of Colony (for a 60L) or the next bottle size up for a 105. My preference, with a new tank, is to set it up, add treated tap water and let it run with the air pump and heater on for several days or more, before adding Colony and your fish. Hope that helps. Best, Mark

[@juliejeffery2063]

Hi Mark. The vaccum is no longer available, do you know of an alternative please?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. If you go to my vac video and the associated video description, all the links should be working. I checked them last week. :)

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/raW4YXanrZ6sm9U

[@FionaclarkClark]

Do you find the bubbles become less over time ?I did

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Fiona. Yes, certainly, the bubbles do reduce over time. It takes a while (perhaps a couple of months) A brand new aquarium is like a magnet to them. They hang around for ages! Lol. Over time they are not really an issue in the slightest. My latest tank still has them but they never appear in my other (established) tanks. They are basically just a "new tank thing" - although many people hate them. Best, Mark

[@FionaclarkClark]

Hi Mark ,me again,! I have had my biorb for years,but not had It in use for about 2 years(moved house) lost the booklet,and I used to fill mine with those exact same bottles ! If I remember correctly,pH needs to be 7-7:5 ? I used tapsafe ,the issues I used to have with mine was lessening of bubbles from the bubble tube,and I felt the filter sponge was not adequate at collecting debris, but going to give it another go,setting it up in next few days,for around 2 weeks of fishless cycling, was thinking a small shoal of tetra fish.what do you have in yours ?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi again Fiona. Good news that you are going to get your biOrb re-going. Yes, using empty 5litre water bottles is a really great way to do water changes etc for a biOrb. Ideally you should use your tap water for the aquarium and you will need to establish what the pH of your tap water is (especially if you have moved away from where you previously lived). You would be better off choosing fish to suit your tap pH rather than making adjustments to your tanks pH level. Let me know what the tap pH is. In terms of tetras (I assume you mean neons) they prefer softer water of about 6-7ph but if you do have 7.5 that should be fine. Neons are sensitive to poor water conditions (i.e. nitrate levels) and are even more sensitive to variations in water quality. As a result , they are a species best added after the tank is fully settled down - say after 6-months (although some people get away with adding them too early). Generally they do better added to a settled tank and will then have a longer life expectancy. Cardinal tetras are similar. I agree that the filter system in a biOrb is not that great at drawing in and then collecting waste. See my video on aquarium vacs as these are the best tool to control biOrb waste. Yes, fish-less cycle is a good way to prepare the tank - I assume you know how to do this from previous experience. Adding ammonia is probably the best way to cycle this way. Fish-less cycle can take many weeks and sometimes months to complete. But, as you say, it can sometimes be achieved in a shorter time. Adding bacteria to the tank, and especially adding some substrate from an existing aquarium (if you know someone that has one) will help to grow the bacterial colony much faster. I have four biOrbs and so have various fish species across these tanks - but generally I have dwarf gourami, zebra danios, pygmy cory, and the following Brazilian tetra species: flame, x-ray, black phantom and lemon. Best, Mark

[@FionaclarkClark]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb tap pH is 6.4 Mark.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Fiona. Thats a perfect pH for species like tetras and betta and numerous others! That's a really great pH (lucky you...I wish I had that!) and this would allow you to choose some great species that many people wouldn't be able to retain for too long! If you want to go down the tetra route, and for an early addition to a newly set-up aquarium (rather than neon, cardinal), I suggest that you have a really good look for "hardier" tetras! The following would be really perfect for you: black phantom (brilliant!), Flame, x-ray and Lemon. All of those species, or a combination of them, are stunning fish to have! A community mix of those species would be really great for your pH and tank.

[@masayowolf]

Do u have a US link for the water quality kit?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. I'm afraid not! But if you Google "API Freshwater Test kit" at your end... or search that product in Amazon etc you should easily find it! Let me know if not! Best wishes, Mark

[@matthewmaddocks6276]

Hey Mark, can you just buy the biorb filters on there own? We picked up a few maintenance kits with the tanks but I'd rather just change the charcoal like you do with the stuff from fluval. Was planning on rinsing the filter in the old water tonight and then swapping the carbon.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hey Matt. I don't think you can buy biOrb sponge filters like that - only through their kits. My suggestion is that you could purchase a similar version through eBay. You can get biOrb compatible filters in packs of 10. They all come with 10 activated carbon bags and 4 airstones for £11.95. I've never had a problem with those... I have them in both tanks!

[@matthewmaddocks6276]

@@StepbyStep-biOrbthat's a great idea! Like these? Some say they are a little light on the charcoal bit i guess we can just top it up with a box from fluval. Should we change the charcoal every water change? And the filter monthly? www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284202583489

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

I'd suggest these: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283951082242?hash=item421ccdab02:g:Rn8AAOSw9R1fSQDQ. The only reason I say that is I'm not sure if the grey looking material in the one you suggested is Zeolite. I would avoid Zeolite and use if you really need to (you can normally tell if it is... if it hisses when put in water it is Zeolite!) Either way, at that price, you could just not use the carbon that comes with the filters and use the Fluval carbon instead. I'm about to complete a video on filter changes at the back end of this week. Argh...you are always a week ahead of my videos! :) I would generally replace the sponge filter each month, same with the carbon. But, on weekly water changes it can be beneficial to also take out the sponge filter and squeeze it out (to remove fish/food waste) in a small bowl of aquarium water. Once it is cleanish just stick it all back together and put it back in the tank. BTW how are your ammonia and nitrite levels... zero now?

[@matthewmaddocks6276]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Perfect I'll order those!! Thanks! Levels are climbing and we cant seem to get them down. I'm not sure if we have rotting food but ammonia today was 1 and nitrite 0.5. Ammonia seems to be climbing fast. I've bought outbreak and will throw some more in later on a water change. I've been dosing dosing colony too but so far we can't seem to get them to go down or level off. Not rinsed the filter so will do that as well tonight! Thanks again for all the advice. Picked up a Life 45 on the weekend but no plans to set it up until our flow 30 has stabilised!!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Okay, my suggestion: and, I know this isn't the best news (for your complaining and forever demanding and hungry fish!) but don't feed fish for two to three days (for the large part, food is the source of your ammonia and nitrite. If you cut food out - the levels of both should drop). Let's see if that allows the bacteria to catch-up on the nitrogen conversion. Waste, as you've described, is more likely to be associated with higher nitrate readings, but yes, time to sort out your sponge filter. Also, let me know how dirty your filter is when you clean it out (is it brownish and full of waste?).

[@7eyesopenwide168]

Do any of these have HEATERS?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi, as a standard product biOrbs do not come with heaters and you need to pay additional for those. Not everyone wants. a heated tank. All biOrbs can be purchased, in package deals, that include heaters. That's generally the same with most aquariums. Best, Mark

[@Krystalwatchesvideos]

Just bought the 4 gallon for a Betta.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Congrats. That's a great tank for a Betta. If you've never had a Betta before, they are a wonderful fish with great personality. Best, M

[@Boss-zo4lw]

I have a few Red Biorb plants, they are turning orange so it looks like the are all losing there color, is that normal for biorb plants?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. I would say it isn't normal to lose colour on biOrb product plants. Are they "silk/material" type or the plastic ones? Also, roughly how old are they? Best, Mark

[@Boss-zo4lw]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb They are pretty new, just a month or so old, they are the Red Seasfan type, plastic. I have two extra large at the back and two mediums in the front corners (not a biorb) it is these two that are losing there colour.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Yes, something very wrong in that case. Sounds like a production issue! I would suggest going back to the supplier for full refund or replacement. Failing that, phone biOrb directly using their website contact info. I'm fairly sure that all biOrb products have a 1 to 2 year guarantee (I guess plants are 1-year)!