biOrb Aquarium | Best fish for a biOrb | How many?

[@jenniferm7592]

I have been watching your videos and they are fantastic! So informative! I was thinking about getting a biOrb aquarium and start down this journey, but was very hesitant and nervous about it. I decided to go thru all of your videos PRIOR to starting anything. Still working my way thru your videos, but once I finish I will be ready with tons of information. Getting excited! Thank you so much for putting these together!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Jennifer. Wonderful to hear from you and to get the supportive comments. Much appreciated (it honestly keeps me going!). Putting aside the biOrb product side of things, my videos will apply to most aquariums of this size (regardless of the product you choose). biOrbs lend themselves extremely well to the idea of adding something nice to a home, with fish included (i.e. they are a "living ornament"). There is little else to compare... and they still look great even without or with hardly any fish. If your main purpose is to have an aquarium (i.e. just have fish) there is a huge choice of alternative products out there. I'm not tied to biOrbs in anyway, so, to me, another good choice to look at is the Fluval Edge range (even though I don't have one!) But, the Fluval tanks are a bit more "aquarium first", rather than adding something to the home! Which ever way you choose to go I am always happy to help. I know what you mean about excitement though! I am about to set up a new biOrb shortly so I'm full of excitement about doing that (even though I've had these for years!). I'm still spending time identifying the fish i would like to add! New videos will be released soon (on setting up a 60L Classic from scratch) and fish choice. No need to be nervous though... just go for it! Starting, and having an aquarium, is reasonably easy (it's just a matter of doing the right things from day one). If I can help with anything just shout! Best wishes to you. Mark

[@jenniferm7592]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb I am looking for something that is visually appealing as well as containing a few fish so I do believe the biOrb will be perfect. I took your advice and have ordered the Flow 30! I am ready to go :) I am still working my way thru your videos, but enjoying each and every one. I have learned so much. I cannot wait to see the new video on setting up your 60L Classic. Take care and thank you again for sharing your knowledge and tips. It is so much appreciated :)

[@wlfcarnival]

As a young person living in an apartment in Prague, your videos have been the single most helpful resource in homing in on a suitable aquarium for me. Kudos to you for conveying your deep knowledge and personal insights in a really watchable, accessible format. Like other commenters have said, I'm binging every video you've got so I'm fully prepped for the undertaking. Thank you for making enjoying an aquarium so much easier for me. You are amazing!!! :)

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Thank you very much. It is always great to hear from people that find the Channel useful. If you need any advice/ help drop me a line through the comments. Best wishes to you., Mark.

[@pjuk]

Well explained. In the past I made the mistake of buying any fish I liked the look of, and although my silver sharks lived 6 plus years they grew far too big for the 60L tank. So definitely important to look at how big they will grow too not just the initial size in the shop! With regards to endlers, I really liked the look of them so purposely only bought the males so they can't breed and make the tank overstocked. They look great swimming round together, highly recommend them.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

yes, we all can all hold our hands up to doing the wrong thing my friend. Hopefully others will get the basics right. Re Endler's - wonderful fish! Thanks for your comments Peter. Best wishes. Mark

[@peterphillips3052]

Thank you Mark - glad i found your Vlog- very helpful - particularly the timer buttons - they were a mystery till I saw you

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Thanks Peter. So glad you find the Channel of use. Yes, those timer buttons on the remote are a mystery for many people. Nice to hear from you and thanks for all your support to this new Channel. Any advice needed, just shout! Best, Mark

[@fany9400]

Great vid and advice on the fish stock, it is not surprising that many new fish tank owners are overstocking their tank greatly without knowing the ideal tank size for a community of fish before any prior research. I got the 15L Life model and wanted to add a betta & some Green neon but later researched and realised that it is too small for neons thus, only used it for 1 betta. Am glad about my choice because my betta seems so happy in the tank even if he is all alone (They are territorial so no, they will not be lonely). He moves around a lot and isn't affected by the water flow because I did a bleed valve to reduce the water movement as per forum advice, all is great for now! Biorb is a really pretty tank, I love how we can change the centerpiece as per when we wish.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Fany. Great to hear from you. Yes, the 15l is very limited in what can be added. Many fish species like to be in groups with a minimum number of about 5 (and often more) which takes the total number of fish beyond what the 15l can hold. They are a great size for betta though and you have made a really good choice. Betta are one of a small number of fish which are happy to have their own space. They interact far more with their owners than they would their own kind. Good that you have adjusted the air flow too... as I have seen some 15l with an air flow that is far too high for many fish species and particularly for betta. Best wishes, Mark.

[@SarahWalton-xo7sg]

Great video and super helpful. I'm really glad I saw this as it has pushed me to change my mind about what I thought would work (i.e. what I thought I would like!!). Your videos always make so much sense! Amazing tip from you is the one to work out your tap water quality and then go find fish that match it. Brilliant advice Mark. Thanks, S

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Sarah. Glad you saw this video and that you can see the point I was trying (always!) to get across. Yes, that's it, match your fish choice to your tap water quality... happy owner, happy fish! Thanks for your support, much appreciated. Mark

[@goncalosantos9767]

Hello Mark, it’s a vídeo with short but crucial information! It’s important to remind the owners and the future owners of aquariums, the importance of the well being of the fishes! Best regards!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Many thanks Goncalo, and thanks for watching and adding comments. Always much appreciated. Yes, fish wellbeing is something we should all strive for and it is much easier to achieve if fish choice is suited to the aquarium size and a local water supply quality. Take care. Best, Mark.

[@angie.salama]

Please help :D I want to have 9 fish combo for a 15 15-gallon aquarium (8 in red or orange color and one black). What are my best options?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Angie. Assuming you have a typical range of tap water pH (7.0 to 8.5) and that you are planning to have a heated tank (18-28C), I would suggest Molly (short finned or aka Sphenops). You can get these in all orange and also in all black (as well as other colours) but you might need to phone about to find a supplier that has them in the colours you want. They are easy to look after and are a good choice for those beginning the hobby. They are not shy and they are well suited to new tank conditions. I hope that helps you. Best wishes, Mark.

[@countvonaltibar236]

What an absolutely fantastic video. Keeping fish be it pond or indoor tropical is such a minefield for the newcomer and this type of content quicky demistiifies setting up one of these types of aquariums. Excellent!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. Many thanks for watching and for your support. Yes, it is a minefield for the beginner and it is so easy to get it wrong. So, I hope the Channel puts people on the right track. It certainly helps to get the right fish species in the first place (ones that are a good match to your tap water quality). Best wishes, Mark

[@peterjones4112]

Some really good points here Mark that I really should have thought about prior to getting the fish i have. Really good suggestion to match your fish to your water supply - seems obvious now but most people would probably not think about that. The Description youve also added to the video is also good to. Cheers, P

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Thanks Pete. Not the easiest subject (for me) to cover as individual circumstances, such as tap water, can vary considerably. People will often come in new to starting an aquarium and already fix their mind on what fish, or combination of fish, they are going to get. It generally needs a bit more thought. Hopefully the video covers the key things to help point people in the right direction. The "hardy" fish are always (probably!) the best suggestion as these will generally suit most of the water conditions that people have and these species tend to be easier to look after. Again, may thanks for watching and for adding comments. Much appreciated. Mark

[@peterjones4112]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thanks Mark - I will let you know if Mr Betta starts to move round more - would be great to see him in the upper part of the tank. He seems to spend a lot of time near the bottom.

[@peterjones4112]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb BTW, I watched your video about adding more fish again and used some spare Colony when I added the Betta. It worked perfectly - not a hint of increased ammonia etc. Thanks for that tip as well.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

@@peterjones4112 Hi again Pete. Yes, please let me know how it goes with the Betta. If that doesn't work let me know, we can look at whether there are any other issues. With Betta it tend to be water flow being too much (they do prefer fairly still water) but can also be water parameters (and even food!). Generally they should be active all around the tank, and regularly going up to the surface.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

@@peterjones4112 Not a problem. It is always a good call to add bacteria when you increase fish numbers (even with just one fish!). It just helps to cover the time for the bacterial colony to expand to deal with the increased ammonia and nitrite (even though it doesn't take long in an established tank). I've never had a single problem when adding fish and using this method so I'm glad that you got the same result. Thanks, Mark

[@amyc8112]

Mark, after watching this video again I have another question. The 1 in of fish per gallon rule. Is that before or after taking into account the water displaced from plants, rock, decor etc? I have a 30L Biorb (8 gallons). However, after I place the decor in I can only fill it with 6.5 gallons of water. Am I calculating the rule from the overall size of the tank or just how much actual water is inside? 8 gallons, or 6.5 gallons? Thanks for your advice.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Amy. Yes, the 1" per gallon yardstick is based on amount of water (and the measurement of a fishes body - not tail - at the size of their maturity). But, as I mentioned, it is simply a yardstick (and is in the absence of anything else). For most tropical fish that people will be considering for a biOrb I think it is a good guide. The number of fish that can be supported is also influenced by the type of fish and also the quality of the water supply being added to the aquarium. For example, you may only get away with a small number of sensitive fish species if your water supply conditions are poorer in nature. I advised mainly to give people an indication of the types of numbers of fish that a biOrb would support and to deter people from adding too many of the wrong type and size of fish (e.g. immature goldfish). biOrbs are an enclosed water system that does not benefit from an external filtration system or constant new water inputs to support the constant filtration and cleansing of aquarium water. It is therefore tap water water quality and water changes (frequency/ quantity) that supports the number and types of fish. If you look at the number of fish your local aquarium shop is maintaining in their aquariums it is likely that they will be holding far more fish than 1"/gallon. But their aquariums are fully supported by water treatment systems. I would always suggest that people get less fish initially and then see how it goes once things settle down and to test how the aquarium water quality is maintained over time (over a week) with the lesser number of fish. If the water quality remains good at the end of a week, that would be a time to consider adding more if that was preferred. Hope that answers what you needed. Best, Mark

[@peterjones4112]

Great video step-by-step 👍

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Thanks Peter.

[@scottp4547]

Where did you get them blue ornaments/trees from in ur tank? They look really smart

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Scott. They are all biOrb products. The blue tree-looking ones at the back are the biOrb blue sea ferns. I think this link takes you to all the products they currently do: www.biorb.com/aquariums/accessories/plants/ Hope that helps. Best, Mark

[@todaysdentalcare4049]

Thank you Mark. Your videos are brilliant. I’ve bought a flow 30 for my dental practice waiting room. But now I’m looking for something for home. If I wanted to have barbs, what’s the minimum size I would need?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Well, as they are a community fish that prefer to be in a group, you would be need to add a minimum of 6 barbs. A 30l tank or larger is ideal for 6 or more fish (of a typical barb size).

[@todaysdentalcare4049]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb ooooo does that mean I can put green barbs in my 30lt flow?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Yes, but, due to their size at maturity, i would keep the number of these low (6 only). My preference would be cherry barbs as they are probably half the size of green so will give more scope to increase numbers a little bit. Male and females look different, but they are both very nice looking fish in their own right. Aim to get a higher number of females than males if you can (your supplier should be able to do this!)

[@victoriaelizabeth222]

Hi Mark, I’m after some fish advice and wondered if you may be able to help please? :) As you may recall I have 6 white cloud minnow (some not fully grown) in a 30ltr classic, not heated. Current tank temp is 62 degrees F. I would like to add a different species to tank and was thinking of zebra danios. Firstly, they apparently favour tanks of at least 64 degrees F and like to be in groups of at least 5 of their own. I’m not sure if 11 fish in total is too much for the tank and if the 2 degrees temperature difference would make much difference to them? I’m keen to stay with a non heated tank so could potentially look at a different species but wouldn’t be sure what else would be suitable. Thanks V.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Victoria. Happy Xmas, hope you had a great time. So, in the first case I would say your tank (as is) is fairly understocked for a 30L. Adding more fish is fine. I suppose the really key question is what your nitrate levels are in your tap (and also in the tank after a week?). If they are high, this may limit your fish number, unless, that is, you want to be regularly undertaking 50% water changes! Lol! Let me know the levels. Danios and White Cloud have an almost identical upper temp range preference, but White Cloud will cope easily with even cooler temps though. Your current tank water temp falls within the "sweet spot" for both species. Perfect! I would probably refer you to the Maidenhead Aquatics website - as Maidenhead tend to focus on the preferences of aquarium fish, which have been captive bred rather than the preference of the species in the wild: www.fishkeeper.co.uk/help-and-advice/freshwater Both species are also very closely matched in terms of their water quality preference (pH etc). Eleven fish might be very slightly too many in a 30L (but this dependent on tap nitrate level)...and this only by 1 fish! Both are social species and will very likely happily group together and swim as a shoal (happy families!). Therefore the "minimum number of species" thing is a slightly irrelevant in this case due to the social grouping nature of the two species. I would work on having a total of, say, 9-10 fish in total in your tank (i.e. of those sized 1" fish in a 30L) and then see how that goes (but nitrate levels are a key thing!). So, go with adding 3-4 Zebras to your 6 White Cloud. In terms of other species, Celestial Pearl Danios are a wonderful species and are probably another obvious species to look at for adding together with your White Cloud (they are the equivalent of the other Danios you mention). Let me know re your tap and tank nitrate levels. m

[@victoriaelizabeth222]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb We had a great Xmas thanks, hope you all did too. Thanks for the wonderful helpful advice. I will test the water and let you know. As the species get along so well haha, if water ok I think I’ll add 3 z danios.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Yes, all enjoying the current break and trying to take is easy :) My money's on them all grouping together!! ZDs are a great fish to have, are very undemanding and don't produce much waste. M

[@victoriaelizabeth222]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb I will keep you posted on how I get along :)

[@victoriaelizabeth222]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi Mark, several readings taken from my tank indicate the Nitrate is within safe limits. Reading about 25-30ppm ish. I tend to take out and replace some of the water weekly, so hoping this figure never creeps into unsafe territory. But I will keep an eye on it, especially adding more fish.

[@yogiyoda]

Love your filming environment. So zen

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

:)

[@wjeantravel]

Which heater do you use in your Biorb? With or without thermostat

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. I am running 5 biOrbs currently and all tanks have factory preset heaters, so do not have adjustment. The factory preset temp is about 24.5C. The exception to this is not a biOrb tank at all. I have a half wine barrel garden pond with comet goldfish. Due to the UK winter temps in winter I relocate this pond from the garden to my garage and use a heater with a thermostat (temp) control on which is set at about 20C (this is just to ensure the pond temp doesn't drop too low due to extremes of weather). In terms of thermostats. All heaters have thermostats and they will all turn on and off in order to maintain a given water temp. Some heaters have a preset temperature settings and other heaters allow you to raise or lower the temperature they provide. Hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

I hope this video helps: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bHWriXqcdsysf5Y.

[@wjeantravel]

Thanks. I'm getting a Biorb classic 16 gallon for my family for Christmas and I noticed one of your videos talked about a thermostat with a long cable to check water temp. The Biorb classic didn't list a heater so I wondered if I needed to purchase the Biorb heater also. Planning to get tropical fish once we get the basics of having an aquarium achieved. Your videos are amazing! Appreciate the practicality and clear way you share your knowledge.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hey not a problem. Congrats on the 16 gallon - it's a great sized tank. Not too big... not too small! For tropical fish you would need at a 50w or more probably a 100w. The biOrb heaters are basically repackaged Hydor Theo heaters. Hydor make them and sell heaters in both 50w and 100w (but biOrb only sell the 50w version). I would get a Hydor as they are cheaper for exactly the same thing and the cables are the same, so they fit through the lid of a biOrb. As it is the Classic tank (curved) you would need to get an adapter to allow the heater to be fixed to a curved surface. They look like this: amzn.to/3t2bRFw In terms of thermometers with a long cable, the one I always use is this one: amzn.to/3Rhp4lG They might be sold under different names/brands, but if it looks like this it is the same product. I've had the same one for years! Thanks for your support and i'm really glad you are finding the Channel helpful. Best, Mark

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Wishing you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. Best wishes, Mark

[@SpookySlytherin666]

Hello again Mark, My mumma and I bought a 30L BiOrb halo after you put our minds at ease about it being suitable for our Betta. We were wondering though what BiOrb centerpiece ornament would you recommend for our Betta that won't damage his fins? We just want the best for him. Also are Rummy Nose Tetras suitable as Betta tankmates in a BiOrb? Who would you suggest as safe tankmates in a 30L BiOrb Halo for a Betta male. Thank you 😃 P.S Sorry for all the questions lol

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hello again. sorry for the delay (I've been away for a few days). I would say that all biOrb centrepiece ornaments are fine for Betta (I wouldn't worry about fin damage in that case). All tetras are fine with Betta but tetras tend to be very sensitive to water conditions (they prefer a pH of about 6.5 to 7- so this matches the range for Betta). Question: what is your tap pH? Rummy Nose tend to get reasonably big (for a tetra... at 2 inches) and you would still need about 6 or more which would be pushing the maximum stocking limits of a 30l - with a Betta also included. You might want to consider either tetra ember (first choice) or neons if you want to go with tetras. My overall choice would probably be rasboras (e.g. harlequin/ lamb chop ). Again, similar number needed of about 6 fish. These are more hardy than tetras and far better suited to new aquariums conditions and tank cycling. Does that help? Best, Mark

[@SpookySlytherin666]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thank you so much for the reply. Hope you had a fabulous few days. Ended up ordering the pink coral centerpiece and still trying to decide on which fish friends to buy Reaper (he's my Betta) will look up all the ones you mentioned. Thanks again 👍

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

You're very welcome :-).

[@franckcossais2582]

Bonsoir je voulais savoir si vous continuez avec vos aquariums biorb et si vous en etiez toujours content ,merci par avance pour votre reponse .

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Salut. Oui, j'entretiens toujours avec plaisir mes biOrbs (cinq). Je n'ai aucun problème avec eux. Meilleurs voeux, Mark.

[@franckcossais2582]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb ,j'adore vos vidéos mais je suis français malheureusement et ne connaît pas bien l anglais . Vous serait il possible de traduire toutes vos vidéos en Français merci beaucoup ,je vous suis et j apprends beaucoup avec vos vidéos. Bonne journée à vous .

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Salut. Vous devriez pouvoir ajouter des sous-titres via la vidéo lorsqu'elle est lue sur KZbin. Je pense que vous devez utiliser l'option « Sous-titres codés » ('Subtitles Closed Option')? Merci, Mark

[@567swim]

Hey Mark! Hope you’re well. Everything is going great with my biorb so far. I had a quick question for you- My betta has never just always hung out at the top of the tank before until I got this biorb. I recently got that attachment you recommended to change the flow of the filter and It’s been working very well. It’s quite noisy but it’s great! Do you have any idea why he would be hanging out at the top? He isn’t gasping for air or anything- everything with him seems completely fine. He’s eating normally and not acting strange whatsoever besides just hanging out at the top of the tank, sort of next to the heater. I know he loves being near the heater, but I have a larger one which extends from the bottom of the tank to the top, so if he wanted to be near the heater he could also go to the bottom… any explanation or ideas for this would be much appreciated! As always, thank you again Mark!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hey Brooke. All well here and hope the same with you. Interesting comment you've made as I would normally associate betta with occupying the mid to upper reaches of the tank rather than constantly hanging around the bottom. I would associate being on or near the bottom as "resting" (mine has his favourite leaf for that). As you say, he seems to be acting normally but just hanging around in an area of the tank and in a way that is different to what he did previously. It sounds like he isn't constantly going up and down the glass ("glass surfing" - indication of being stressed). He doesn't seem to be constantly taking air from the surface (indicating poor water quality). I'm aware that low heat causes betta to reduce activity (this could result in lots of time spent at the bottom)- warmer temps make them more active (around the tank). So, it could be heat related as you indicated. If you have a thermometer like mine you could try taking the temp at the area where he is now hanging about and then compare that to the temp at the lower part of the tank (just to see if there is a difference). Perhaps the heater is slightly warmer at one end? If he seems happy that's the really good sign. Best wishes, Mark.

[@Skull_CB_TV]

Please do not put a Betta in a 4 gallon🙏🙏

[@coltonj4982]

@@Skull_CB_TV Alright, here is my issue with people like you. You attack people that choose to do the right thing by putting a betta fish in a 4 gallon, but don't attack the pet stores that choose to store their bettas in cups. I remember when 2.5 was the ideal size, and now we keep moving and moving it up without attacking people that put the bettas in bowls with no aeration, filtration, heater, etc. So rethink what you're saying, and I highly suggest that you rephrase your statement to ensure that it is really true....

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Yes, the debate over "best sized" aquarium for a single betta has changed over time. The minimum is still deemed to be around 2.5 gallon, but a tank of 4 to 5 gallon and over is seen as preferred. But, the very most important thing (and main reason for suggesting a larger sized tank) is to ensure that the water parameters of the tank are maintained correctly for your fish. Basically, larger tanks are easier to maintain water quality. But, a betta will do far better (and have a long healthy life!) in a well maintained 4 gallon than in a poorly maintained 60 gallon with incorrect parameters and conditions. Betta are best suited to softer acidic water (so including tannin is beneficial), although pH up to 7.5 is normally seen as being okay. Nitrates should be kept low (below 20ppm ideally). In smaller tank, it is best to restrict the addition of too many other fish, this mainly in an attempt to limit waste and keep bioload/nitrates low. So, less about size and more about maintaining the right conditions for your betta to ensure it has a happy life. :)

[@christophertracey9433]

I have just purchased a pre owned 60lt Biorb as i want to get back into fish after 20yrs but do not want to have the real hassle of a large Aquarium as i am now into my 70's and not too well but hope to use the calming effect as part of my treatment. I came across your website by accident and took to it straight away as you seem to be a very nice person that is not sponsored by some big company and trying to push their products and youdo come across as really passionate about your fish and helping others to enjoy there's. so I naturally subscribed and am beavering my way through them all. Wishing you all the best and please keep it up. one small question if I may in your Bleach Tutorial is it safe to use Milton steriliser instead, I realise that it may kill everything but not knowing the history of the tank I don't think that would be a bad thing then treat as a new tank as in your first setting up video Chris

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Chris. Wonderful to hear from you and thanks for supporting my Channel. Great to hear you are getting back into the hobby again. A 60L is a really good size... not too big, not too small. In terms of Milton. Yes, you can use this product - it is basically thin bleach with salt. I would generally say it is slightly stronger (only just!) than most thin bleach but there isn't much in it at all. As it is a beach-based product the guidance on my video will apply just the same (i.e. rinsing and use of dechlorinator). For cleaning out a tank before use, just soak a clean cloth in a solution made up of water and milton (or thin bleach), and give it a wipe down on the inside. Follow this with a good rinse using tap water. Then wipe down with a cloth containing water with a double dose or triple dose of dechlorinator (e.g. AquaSafe). If it was me I would fill it up again with tap water and then add double dose dechloriantor and let it stand for a good 30 mins. Empty it, and then it will be good to fill up for aquarium use (using a normal dose of dechlorinator to tap water). Now that the weather is improving, I would probably do all the tank cleaning outside with a garden hose, far easier and less messy! If your tank came with previously used ceramic media, I would probably look to throw that away and get new. Alfagrog E25 is the same product as the biOrb media and is far cheaper. I hope that helps. Feel free to message if you need any further help. Best wishes, Mark

[@christophertracey9433]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thank you mark very helpful I have been looking for some of that Colony that you use but can't find any except on ebay and I am always a little cautious about buying that type of thing from somewhere that I do not know in case it is not the real deal if you catch my drift? I will try to source some Alfagrog i don't like the new Pebble media as i don't think it looks natural thanks again

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Chris, I know what you mean about eBay. I tend to get things online, if I can't get locally, from Amazon or Aquacadabra. Can't say I have had any bad experiences with products obtained via those routes to date. Other really good bacterial products are available such as Aquavitro Seed or Seachem Stability. Those I mention all basically do the same sort of thing (if you plan to undertake fish-in, rather than fishless, cycling). Best, Mark.

[@seanaobrien5630]

Hi Mark, this is all very new to me. I’ve purchased all of my kit (after watching your videos) I have a 30L Live including a heater, I’m a total novice, what fish would you recommend and how many?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Lol!! Well Seana... the really brilliant thing is that you are asking before you decide! Great move! I need to know some things I'm afraid... Initially, what is the pH of your tap water and also the nitrate content? If you don't have a test kit you can get this information from your water suppliers website. Go to their website, look at water water quality, and obtain your typical water quality by adding in your postcode. Let me know.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Or give me your water suppliers name and a post code and I will look for you :)

[@seanaobrien5630]

So…………. First I tried to find out if the water is soft or hard and the information has been very conflicting 🤔 I’m with Northumbrian Water who claim that it is a mix. I couldn’t find anything with regards to ph and I didn’t know if the nitrate levels were good or bad? If you don’t mind checking for me I’d be very grateful mark.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Well Northumbrian Water has a strange way of reporting and not easy to find!! I got to this: www.nwl.co.uk/globalassets/sharepoint-documents/think-digital-documents---all-documents/T203.pdf. This indicates a fairly high pH (7.7 to 8.1 with 7.9 being the mean/average). Nitrate is very low (really good!) at 1.68 to 3.92ppm with a mean of 2.3ppm. So, basically you need to be looking for fish species that are suited to hard water/higher pH.

[@seanaobrien5630]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb I’m pleased it wasn’t just me! Thank you for taking the time to check for me I really appreciate it.

[@nadinegreen211]

With the Biorb 35 Tube 9.2gal aquarium, is it possible to have a Nerite snail, a couple Cherry Shrimp and 5-6 Chili Rasbora’s or 5-6 Guppies? Wasn’t sure if snails or shrimp would be ok with the ceramic media substrate. Tank will have live aquatic plants.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Nadine. In a word 'Yes' for all those. :) I would however advise that you to phase the introduction of snails and shrimps. After the tank is cycled (with fish), I would normally wait for a further few weeks before adding the snails. Shrimps like to have stable (mature) aquarium conditions and ideally I would add after about three months, ideally 6 months. In terms of shrimp, Cherry are certainly the ones I would advise to get. Hope that helps. Best, Mark

[@nadinegreen211]

Thank you very much. I’m very excited. The Biorb 35 tube aquarium is beautiful.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

That's so nice to hear. You mentioned concerns regarding the biOrb ceramic media... the new Pearl media is a far better substrate (far less sharp/harsh) and also reduces the likelihood that small fish can get trapped in the substrate. It is a shame that biOrb are not shipping it out with their new tanks, currently it is only offered as an additional purchase!

[@nadinegreen211]

Interesting, and yes, it’s a shame it’s not included with new purchases. I’ll look into it for future. In the meantime, how often should the substrate ceramic media be replaced? And do you think the original version of the ceramic media would be harmful or dangerous to bottom feeders, like snails, shrimp and Pygmy Cory catfish? Or should I not get bottom feeders in this instance?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

In reality, Ceramic Media should last for many many years. Every few years it is worth taking it out of the tank and giving it a quick clean (agitation) in a bucket of water extracted from the tank... then put it all back in again. This can be done with the fish left in the tank as i feel taking fish out of their tank is more stressful for them. The regular (weekly) use of an aquarium vac helps to remove waste building up under any media so helps to keep it clean. Ceramic media is fine for snails, shrimps and pygmy cory. Pygmy cory spend most of their time swimming mid-water and feeding off the surface of leaves, biOrb sculptures etc. Snails spend most of the time cleaning the "glass", sculptures etc. Shrimps are fine on ceramic media. I have maintained all of these on ceramic media for many years. Pearl media is specifically designed to support true bottom feeders (protects sensitive mouths)... but most true bottom feeders tend to get fairly large at maturity and are often not a good choice for a biOrb anyway! The main benefit with Pearl is that it really does help reduce the chance of smaller fish getting trapped in the media and that it is far easier to keep clean (with a vac). Water and waste flow under the pearl media is better, as ceramic media does tend to trap more waste due to its irregular shape.

[@Loessing]

Hey Mark Thanks for these great guides! I am a very new aquarium owner, and was wondering if it would be ethical to keep a few shrimp (2-3) with a betty in the 15l flow biorb. Thanks!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Toby. Merry Christmas. They would be fine (shrimp would not really add to the bio load in an aquarium). However, compared to betta, shrimps are very fussy regarding water quality so please be sure to check if the type you fancy are a good match to the water in your tank (pH etc). They will tend to die off quickly if things are not perfect for them. They are far better introduced to the tank once it has matured as they are often very sensitive to the water variations typical of a new tank. So, I'd say add them after about 6-months once the tank has settled down. Best wishes to you. Mark

[@donnabenvin7294]

Thanks again,very informative 👍

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Many thanks Donna. Always nice to hear from you. Best, Mark

[@denisetilley3559]

What type of buckets do you use in your videos? I checked on Amazon and there are a million of them. Thanks.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi The exact ones I use are these amzn.to/3DL16ca but you would need to find something similar in the US. Ideally you need a 5 gallon bucket with a measurement scale up the side, and with handles. It is best to have two of them but this is not essential. Hope that helps, M

[@jamiemohammed]

Hi Mark, can you recommend a bottom feeder for the biorb 30 litre flow that picks up the left over food on the ceramic media. Cheers

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Jamie. I am not aware of a suitable ("true") bottom feeding fish that would suit the limitations of a biOrb or a ceramic media/ pearl media substrate. Many of these species grow too large for a biOrb, many are suited to softer water scenarios (compared to the conditions you have), and most (if not all) are better on soft/sandy substrates... to avoid damage to barbules. Saying that, most fish species you would add to a biOrb feed at all levels within the tank, including clearing up food that has settled on the bottom. All the fish I have clear-up food waste material. Best, Mark

[@jamiemohammed]

Thanks for replying mark and the advice. I went with the Harlequin Rasboras and they seem to be thriving in my tank with my water parameters. Thanks again 👍

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

I should have added, if you feed your fish too much they are likely to ignore food that falls to the bottom. I always prefer to give a lighter feeding - to ensure the fish go around clearing everything up. Also, choose fish feed that doesn't sink rapidly and always use floating or slow sinking feeds! Use live food when you can, as this eliminates any waste build-up. This overall approach works for me! :)

[@567swim]

Hi Mark! I use found your channel and it’s extremely helpful. I just got the biOrb classic 4 gallon today for my birthday and I need just a little advice. I love it and the set up was quite simple. The only issue I am going to have is the current. I’ve had my betta fish since last December and he hates any type of current and in his current take I have a very small filter with barely any current. Is there any way I could decrease the current with this filter? Thank you so much!!!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Brooke. Yes, I have recently seen the same issue with another person's 4 gallon biOrb - the air flow was far too intense. I can see why your Betta isn't going to like it. To reduce the air flow into your aquarium you will need to install an air regulator to your airline (tube) to allow you to reduce the air flow. You will need one that fits the biOrb air line (so, I believe, one that fits 4-6mm tubes). These are really low cost and very easy to install. If you look at your biOrb''s air line you will see it has a plastic check valve ("one way valve") installed between the air pump and the aquarium. This is designed to stop water running back down the tube from the aquarium and into your pump (this can happen if the air pump is switched off for a while). The air valve needs to be installed between the air pump and the check valve (i.e not installed between the check valve and the aquarium). You simply turn off your pump, cut the air line and fit the air regulator. Turn the pump back on and and then adjust air flow using the tap on the regulator. You should be able to get an air valve from your local aquarium supply shop or buy one online (eBay, Amazon). I will have a quick look online to se if i can find one with a diagram showing where to install it and send you a link. Best wishes, Mark

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Here you go. This is the type of thing you need. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182452602855?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D234475%26meid%3D1f301dfbe4224a3ea485ec02679b849f%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D172528069056%26itm%3D182452602855%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv9PairwiseWithPLXWeb%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A1824526028551f301dfbe4224a3ea485ec02679b849f%7Cenc%3AAQAGAAACEHwxnaQ8QN9Yjzm9lZDt%252F%252BA1CAG5AQGY3xceVxKiVxUSueX%252FvqNkD6FTwvb9is6yD3kdpmvbz6I2vQ%252BltnRsWiHnAgXUtL2WEkjaTjsOLhs2J7%252Bo8YF1P%252FDkG1XlPGCH3RB5Kxi0L1i4c5LlA0c7BPLycrw0%252FFlfXDBCkxJDuUjFx%252FDCVaWvgpPnF4ifc9u4P2Wn8n9uw73zrBL8oEkWk3KKoe%252BbaltNJBwBdeEdHGz56O3OO0qCo1%252BM3UUkGQs2bqhq%252BbftjmhTyX0YY%252F4isByHJS%252BItb4Em7CKVdyX97V9BAg9Pf1OcdPYZ9Jp1kUDhhakmBZZ7yV0pjgcEs8Ow097V9WjFFpb5H%252BymGPEzDKBVi9UxMTvz4j6JNro%252BlDCd9ALSDL5cVdo%252FJrrKwmoR8c%252BP3aI9ac%252FS9QYHPwEy3P%252FN0yauhN3eemw3TPE7EvLu0Xw5k44Q6A2YHyXi4k%252BB%252BMvv%252BZn4dZBj16tnnUTtw7nwuRJjnEfjOuXqtE1AAdgCGdiZdX9iNzsQD89OYS%252BZXSdmCXewhAc5DxCu6X8jRNkrBSro1dCc8bZ0ySXD30Y9NouLtoP040CY5UbLjo4sz8wgKm9ZU8SyTs%252B5vWHwoA9KiO%252F2NsODSOwKm2fRmuI5yCN7oaH609iXAGmOmWOlP85BXTxex6P4wbt0IcAH8V6rwSHJD2USb3N6ASP6D%252B97w%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2047675&epid=2263853261 You should be able to get one from a supplier or shop much nearer to you. The link above will take you to the product's description which includes a diagram of where you fit it along the air line (i.e. between the pump and the stop valve). It is very easy to do. Just double check the size of the biOrb air tube - but I believe this size valve would be about right!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

When you turn off your air pump for a while (such as fitting an air flow regulator or due to a power outage) a small amount of water can often run down the air tube towards the pump. When you turn the air pump back on it may look like the pump is no longer working as little or no air will go to the aquarium. This is very normal! What you need to do is gently blow up the tube with your mouth until bubbles start flowing in the tank. Once that happens fit the tube onto the air pump and all will work perfectly - you can then adjust the airflow using the regulator to a level that suits the aquarium and your Betta. I hope that all helps but please let me know if not. Best wishes, Mark

[@567swim]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi Mark! Thank you so much for this detailed response. It’s very much appreciated. I am going to look around at my local pet store today. I found some on amazon that may be worth buying! I will check back in with you to tell you how it’s doing. Would you recommend anything else for me for my betta in this tank? All the best and thank you again!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Brooke. You are very welcome! As you've had your Betta for about 10 months you are likely to have it already sorted and will know your fish better than anyone. If you can get the air flow down it will certainly help make the aquarium more suitable for him. Betta do like to rest of broad plants leaves etc so I'd certainly think about getting a real anubias plant on rock (see my video on real pants) if you haven't already. The Betta I have tends to rest on his favourite leaf most nights and he stays there until he sees me in the morning... when he expects to be fed! Lol. Perhaps it is just my Betta! :) I will probably do a Channel video on controlling air flow using a regulator - as I've had a few comments recently about this issue which seems to be associated with biOrb 15L. I do have a contact in the biOrb Technical Team so I will flag this issue with him when I next speak. biOrb should probably add a regulator to the 15L tanks so that owners can adjust air flow to suit the conditions they need - although, it doesn't seem to be an issue with their larger biOrb aquariums. Let me know how you get on. Take care. Mark

[@KatieFielding-v1u]

Hi Mark, your videos are so helpful, could you do one on shrimp? :)

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Katie, I will add to the list of the vids I need to produce. In the mean time, my general guidance is: I would normally suggest to avoid adding them to a new aquarium with fish until the tank has settled down. At least three months after cycling, with about 6-months being better. In a shrimp only tank, they can be added much earlier. Many shrimps are highly sensitive and can have demanding water quality requirements (particularly pH and the need for stability with tank conditions/water parameters) However, Cherry Shrimp are substantially less sensitive to water parameters and are alway the ones I would suggest for a biOrb. Cherry are generally happy with pH 6.0 to 8.0 and are fine with temps from about 18C to 30C. The water quality requirements of Cherry are roughly the same as that for most aquarium fish. Red Cherry retain a better colour/vibrancy on dark substrates as they will adapt to reduce their original colour when on pale substrates (same goes for most other shrimp varieties!). This is simply a shrimps approach to camouflage! The KEY THING when adding shrimps to a tank is to properly acclimatise them. This needs to be done slowly and over a much longer period than you might do with most fish. I would say to float the bag on the surface of the aquariums water for at least 2 hours and very slowly (every 10 minutes) add a few drops of the tank water to the water in that bag they come in. The best way to acclimatise them is using "drip acclimation". But you can do similar using a pipette. General problems: Although most fish ignore shrimps, some fish species will see shrimps as a nice food source! This tends to be the slightly larger mouthed fish that have a boisterous nature. For example, Dwarf Gourami can end up being be very fond of them! Although a vac is probably essential for maintaining a biOrb, shrimps and vacs are not always a good combination! You have to keep an eye on where the shrimps are in the tank when using a vac! Hope that helps. Mark

[@jamiemohammed]

Hi Mark, I've had my 6 Harlequins in the tank just over a week now I'm due a water change this weekend. Would you think it's best I do the water change first before adding a dwarf gourami or add him before or is it still to early to add another fish as the Harlequins have only been in a week ? Thanks

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Jamie. It mainly depends on your water quality readings. What are the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate readings currently? Did you fully cycle the tank prior to adding the harlequins (e.g. fishless cycle using ammonia) or are you doing fish-in cycle using the harlequins?

[@jamiemohammed]

Im doing fish in cycle and just tested my water with all good results 👍

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Great! So you should have a rising tank nitrate level reading which confirms the tank is cycled (due to conversion from ammonia through to nitrate). On that basis, I would do a water change to lower the nitrate back down (say 1/3rd water change) and then look to add further fish. Nice one. :)

[@jamiemohammed]

Yeah nitrite has increased slightly but not a huge amount. Yeah I'll do a water change at the weekend. Im looking at a dwarf gourami on its own or are they better as a pair ? Just don't want to overstock and limit the amount of fish I have

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

DGs (especially males) are probably better on their own. So, that will work well with the idea of keeping numbers down. Some DG males can be very moody/agressive with other fish species and it is difficult to tell what temperament they have until you get one and have it in the tank for a while The real big issue to note about DGs is dwarf gourami disease... I've given up trying to find a supplier that can supply one that doesn't end up coming down with DGD. Those two things are the key risks with DGs. Apart from that, they are lovely looking fish.

[@goncalosantos9767]

Hi Mark, when will you publish a new vídeo?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Goncalo. I took a (well earned) break from video production (which is very time consuming) whilst my kids were off school for summer holidays etc. biOrb have offered to provide products to support the Channel so I will be setting up a new 60l aquarium shortly and will do some videos on that. I have also received boxes of a range of free biOrb products which I intend to give out to channel subscribers through monthly giveaways (i.e. prize draws) - I haven't worked how to do that yet. Some products are still on backorder from biOrb so haven't got them all yet. Hopefully, I will be up and running again soon (new video in 2-3 weeks). Sorry for the delay. Best, mark

[@goncalosantos9767]

Mark and those products that you pretend to give away includes aquariums? I hope i will get lucky with some of those prizes😃

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Im afraid they won't include aquariums my friend. :)

[@SjefVanOekelDraaftDoor]

Hi Mark - hope you're doing fine. Once more I need some advice. I had 5 Harlequin Rasboras but 1 died for a few months ago and today one more. So 3 left. I know 3 is to to little for this group fish but I'm in doubt about what to do. Should I buy a few more HR so they are a group again, or, because I also would like another kind of fish, should I just let them be the 3 that are left (and wait until they'll reduce to 2, 1 and none)? Thanks and all the best, Roel

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Roel. Harlequins are a social group species that will happily join in with other social fish species. It is more about security in numbers. So, they should be fine, and will join in/group with another group of fish (depending on what species they are). All of the fish I have spend most of their time grouped with other species. What are you planning to get? Best, Mark

[@SjefVanOekelDraaftDoor]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thanks Mark. I have 2 Wagtail Platys and was thinking about a few more of them - just in some other colors. Or maybe a group of Neon fish. But I’m not sure if the Neons is a good choice. I would just like some peaceful and lively ones and I prefer some strong colors. The Harlequins are a tight group and they’ve never “socialized” with the other fish. If you have any suggestion please let me know. Best, Roel

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

I would go with platies and/or mollies if you want social, colourful and active - as well as being very easy to care for. Both can be a bit obsessed with food though . LOL, always acting hungry :) Neons are fine if you have softer/ slightly acidic water, but can often be a bit sensitive to variations in water quality.

[@SjefVanOekelDraaftDoor]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thank you Mark - you’re right about “acting hungry”. They are funny fish. Best, Roel

[@lloydy138]

Hi Mark, following all your great videos after my bio orb life 60 purchase. I’m struggling to find an appropriate heater for my tank as it appears bio orb heaters are no longer available to purchase. Please can you provide some advice or give any alternative solutions that would help, thanks.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Lloydy. Lol.... it's the second time today I've been asked that one! :) The intelligent heater is no longer produced by biOrb (as they have changed their electrical current supply on newer tank systems) and you will struggle to find any retail outlets that have any left. They are a really great product (I have three!) and are very discreet and will fit all biOrbs (new and old!). They are worth trying to find (as second hand) as there is little to go wrong with them. There are currently two for sale on eBay (I saw them today)! If you want to go down an alternative route then i would suggest a fully submersible heater and choose one of the big aquarium brands such as the range by Fluval etc. Submersible heaters allow you to place the heater at the bottom and back of your aquarium to make them less obvious and easier to hide. The one thing to check with any another product is to make sure the cable, which feeds off the heater, fits through the hole in the lid of your biOrb. Does that help? Best, Mark

[@lloydy138]

Thanks for your response, much appreciated.

[@lloydy138]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi Mark, finally got my hands on an intelligent heater with powerpod but I have a problem. Both the light and pump leads don’t look to be the correct fittings for the powerpod and don’t plug in to it. Am I missing something here or is this some form of new update with light and pump leads. Thanks Lloyd

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Lloyd. Yes that will probably be the case with the most recent aquariums. Thats because biOrb changed their electrical system on their newer aquariums and also phased out the intelligent heater and powerpod. A similar issue applies if you upgrade to MCR lighting, if you have an older aquarium, the new MCR lighting plug won't fit the powerpod (so you have to buy the biOrb adapter plug and run that through a separate plug). So, in your case, you will probably need to run the heater through the powerpod and run the light and pump through the plug that came with your aquarium. Hopefully, I've got that correct. Best, Mark

[@lloydy138]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thanks Mark, helpful as always. I have two more questions and I believe you have answered them in previous videos but can’t find it. 1. How do you get rid of bubbles on the glass as I’ve just set it up and there’s a lot of them? 2. The aquarium centre recommended a week until I put fish in there but as I’m going to use ATM colony can I put them in sooner? Thanks

[@scottp4547]

HELP My mrs cleaned our aquarium today down to at least 50% water n cleaned and sucked old food out But it’s stinking our house out Any ideas why

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Scott. Thanks...and that's one of the funniest posts I have received. LOL. When you say "stinking" do you mean the aquarium water smell? The product to best help control aquarium water smell is activated carbon. That's about it. Are you using this and when was the last time you refreshed the filter's content of this? I should know Ive been testing an alternative to activated carbon currently and I will probably need to go back to my original product to get rid of the aqaurium water smell

[@scottp4547]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb hi yes Changed filter and the stone Put 50% new water in Put sponge in there when added new water to not spray it everywhere

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Okay let's see if it will calm down. But, it will take a while for the carbon to absorb all the water smell (i.e. the 50% left and anything stirred up during the cleansing) but it should remove the odour. Sounds like her deep clean stirred things up a bit. But very good to get it all out the aquarium. 50% is a bit high for a single water change quantity - normally best to limit to 1/3rd but to do so more frequent (weekly). In the mean time.... she can spray the house with her very best perfume, it might help :)

[@scottp4547]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb also somehow we’ve got snails in our tank I remove around 5/6 a day I not got a clue how they got in there any ideas?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Eek! Snails? It gets worse! That's weird! Did you introduce any real plants recently? Alternatively they may have been introduced during adding fish and associated third party water etc(i.e. if the water had any snails in). Normally the main culprit for snails arriving in a tank is plants (eggs on). It normally doesn't take a lot of time for snails to grow in size. Can you recall anything you've added in say the past 1 month?

[@mikeh339]

Hello Mark, At the moment I have my 30L Tube biorb running for 3 weeks, after 2 weeks I put in the fishes from my old aquarium there is now 4 platys 1 cory and 5 neontetras, everything is going well and I would like to add some more fish maybe guppys or a dwarfgourami like ive seen in your video, do you think this is possible and how much fishes should fit in this 30L Tube. Is it possible to have there around 15/20 fishes? Because the neon tetras are with 5 but are very small fishes. What you think is a good amount of fish in my aquarium?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Mike. Really great to hear all is going well with the tank. In terms of numbers, I would say that 15/20 fish is too many for a 30l. I would still stick with the old classic "one inch per gallon rule" to roughly work out the maximum fish numbers as it does provide a good starting point to establish a "not to exceed" number (unless water quality determines otherwise). Note that the rule relates to the body size of the fish (excluding tail) at full maturity (as most shops sell young fish not at maturity). Rather than tank size, one of the key factors limiting biOrb fish numbers is tap/tank nitrate levels. The better the water quality, the more fish. The key thing is nitrate. Ideally nitrates needs to be maintained below 10-15ppm to support a higher fish number. In terms of dwarf gourami (DG). These are really stunning fish, and one of my favourites, but most DG end up suffering dwarf gourami disease (DGD) - which is a fairly slow death with no remedy. Google it to see the background on this. Sadly, I've given up on them, despite my many attempts to find fish without DGD. It's a chance you will need to take if you really want one, but it is extremely likely you will end up going down the DGD road. Guppys are great fish (personally I prefer Endler's, and they are at least half the size!). Being livebearers, I suggest all males as they do breed like rabbits (or should I say rabbits breed like guppies!). Best, Mark

[@mikeh339]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thank you for the advise I will keep that in mind, I was also thinking of adding instead of a dwarf gourami or guppy a betta fish, man or woman, is that a good idea or is this fish not able to combine with my platys and neontetras?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

A betta (m or f) would be fine with both the species you have. They are great fish, very sweet/laid back! Generally, the key thing is not to mix a male betta with another male betta. A single fish is the best solution (either m or f). If you are maintaining neon tetras without any issues as a result of water quality then your tank water will also be very well suited to keeping a betta.

[@mikeh339]

​@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi Mark, then iam going to try and find a nice betta male to add to my biorb, thanks again for the answers good advices and the videos full of information, I enjoyed watching those and learned a lot of things. If in the future I will have some questions i will definetly ask them under your videos. Thank you👍🏼

[@amyc8112]

Could I do a betta fish, 5-6 neons and a nerite snail in a 30L Flow or is that too much? I’m not sure if the snail counts towards the bio load or not since they help clean up. If this was mentioned in the video I’m sorry. I have young kids and they interrupt me frequently. I could have missed it. 😄

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

I'm going to say that number of fish could be fine (betta + 5 neons) but it may be part governed by the quality of your tap water supply - especially nitrate. Let me know what you tap nitrate level is. Snails would add vey little to tank bioload - that relates more to fish and their food and waste. If you are intending to get tetras I would suggest that you hold off adding those until the tank is cycled (they can tend to be a bit more sensitive to cycling and the early stages of the tank development). I would do similar with nerites - hold off until the tank is beyond cycling and the waste materials they need (fish waste, biofilm, algae) are present. Hope that helps, M

[@amyc8112]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb do you quarantine your fish before you add them together into the Biorb?

[@chrisball2916]

Iv just brought a 60l classic, im thinking of having 6 cardinal tetra and 6 rummy nose and 1 betta, do you think this is overload or just on the limit, my water parameters suits Hardy fish so wouldn't risk sensitive fish

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Chris. Really sorry for the delay in responding (I’m currently out of the UK with limited access to WiFi). I think your fish choice and numbers are generally fine. Tetra generally prefer mature aquariums rather than new. Betts prefer softer water but so do tetra. If this is a match with your tap water supply you will have a good match. So, check your water supply parameters with the preference range of your species of choice. All If these fish prefer to have an element of tannins. This is best achieved by adding a few acorn caps to the tank - this will help to avoid the yellow/brown water colour that would result from the addition of many other wood or leaf products. I hope that covers what you needed. If not, just shout! Best, Mark

[@juliejeffery4211]

My daughter now has my old biorb cube and she set up 10 days ago, thought she had the water temperature ok as it was fluctuating between 25.8 during the day and going down to 24.5 at night. And all her levels are 0 for nitrates, nitrite and chlorine. She introduced 3 platys, 3 zebra danios and 3 zebra tetras and a shrimp 4 days ago Shes noticed this morning the platys have white spot. Shes bought interpet white spot but its says remove all media. Do you have any advice?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Julie. Sorry to hear about the whitespot - but great to hear your daughter is showing an interest in the hobby. The water temp variation is fine - it is mainly sudden changes in water parameters that can impact fish (e.g. quick changes in temp, pH etc). The variation you describe will be changing gradually... similar to what it would do in the natural environment. In terms of applying medication, this is typical guidance for many types of medication and it just relates to removing the filter media in the central tube filter system. Products such as activated carbon will remove the medication from the water meaning the treatment would not be applied properly. All you need to do is remove the central filter from the tank, take out the filter media material, put the sponge back in and then add the central tube filter back in. When the treatment period has finished the filter media can be added back to the filter. Hope that helps. Mark

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

White spot can often appear in newly added fish, this linked to the stress (lowered immune system) of being transported and released into a new tank.

[@GuruAuggie]

Can I put a Betta fish in a four gallon biord sphere? I was was told that's not a good idea because of the flow of the water

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. Yes, lots of people do. In terms of air/water flow, betta prefer gentle water circulation and some biOrb pumps can be too high. In that case you would need to add a regulator to the pump to reduce the airflow: kzbin.info/www/bejne/lWbLoIOEap1oj9U. The key thing is to ensure that your tap/water supply is a good match. They do best best in soft, slightly acidic water with stable conditions. Hard water conditions are not ideal but will generally be fine in water that has pH: 6.0-7.5. Hope that helps Mark

[@twodollabag7509]

Could you do a video on good tankmates. Google is a wonderful tool however they have put fish in with the wrong tankmatws for a topical tank.

[@vinylninja]

This is brilliant, thanks for this! :)

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Glad you liked it! Thanks for your support to this Channel. Best, Mark

[@sabinevandenbroeck9895]

it might be an idea to make a kind of "model" tanks and include (name) the fish . one for 15l 30l 60l. a suitable combination that would fit. what do you think.. is there some kind of list?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Sabine. Nice to hear from you. Hopefully, the video description that accompanies this video covers the key things and also lists the most suitable species for biOrbs. When watching the video click on 'More' to access this information. Suitable fish numbers (for the different tank sizes) can be roughly estimated using the "one inch of fish per gallon" yardstick. It is difficult to go into the specific detail for every biOrb size as the best fish choice will vary widely as this is dependent on people's water quality (such as tap water pH, general hardness, and nitrate levels). There is also the question of whether the tank is heated or unheated. Because of those complications, I'm always happy to give people specific advice. Please let me know if there is any specific information you need for your own circumstances. Best wishes, Mark

[@beckyroberts9920]

Great video!! I'd love to have complete stock lists of fish combinations you've been pleased with in your own 30L biorbs! I've got similar water conditions to yours and learn by example... your channel has been fabulous for this! Just want the species & combos and numbers you enjoy.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Becky. I really appreciate you watching the Channel and for your comments. Much appreciated... a big thank you! Please do have a look at my recent video about adding specific fish to a new aquarium kzbin.info/www/bejne/bqi0ZKOshdxrea8 Also have a look at the Video Description for this video as it adds to what is said in the video. Hopefully, all of this, along with the text in the video Description, covers everything anybody would would possibly need to know about having an aquarium with my water supply and choosing fish. I have a broad range of fish species (across 4 biOrb aquariums), a number of these biOrbs have fish species that are very well suited to my tap water supply (others not!). I have to work harder to maintain suitable conditions for those fish that are not best suited to my tap water and it can be hard work to always get the conditions perfectly right! In terms of numbers, I still think the "1 inch of fish per gallon" is a really good yardstick and starting point to help identify how many mature fish fish a tank can support. Generally, with a 30L, I would start with around 6-7 small fish and take it from there. If you have a similar water supply to me (around about pH7.4, GH 9.8 and medium nitrate) I would certainly recommend "hardy" tetra species as described in my recent video about adding fish. Species I maintain include: Endler's; dwarf gourami (including red); pygmy cory (catfish); zebra danios; and, harlequin & lamb chop rasbora. Some of these are in specific tanks requiring alteration to my standard tap water (i.e they need slightly softer water than my tap). The Brazilian Tetra species in the recent 60L video are very well suited to my water supply (I don't need to alter it) and consist a mixture of: lemon, black phantom , x-ray and red flame. Hopefully that covers what you asked but let me know if not. Best, Mark.

[@beckyroberts9920]

That covers it! Thank you for summarizing here. I'm almost through all your videos (some more than once with notepad in hand) and am sorting through the great comments in all your fish adding videos. So very helpful to have your examples. I plan to add fish as your more recent video method describes, just commented on this video instead, as I re-watch and make possible "stocklists" to take with me and the toddler to the local shop. We are easily distracted when it comes to beautiful animals!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Thanks Becky! If you guys need any advice or want to test your decisions just drop me a line. It is certainly worth visiting the Maidenhead Aquatics website and looking at their Freshwater Fish Data Bank (it is possibly the best available currently) to help identify community fish that are fully suited to your tap water. If you have a fairly local Maidenhead Aquatics they are worth a visit (I get all my fish from this supplier and have never had a problem with any of their fish). Nice to hear from you. Best wishes, Mark

[@beckyroberts9920]

Okay I got the liquid test kit out and tested the tap water (don't have the hardness kit yet but my water is VERY hard according to strips & all my spigots with mineral deposits on them.) here's specifics: 214ppm TDS (cool)-341(hot); 7.8pH; 2.0ppm total ammonia(ak!); 0.0ppm nitrite; 0.0ppm nitrate. so: no nitrates, high pH and very hard source water. I'm in central Texas and our water comes from a river fed by runoff from limestone hills. but now i'm worried. i'm getting 0.055 NH3 at 71.2°F out of the tap using that awesome calculator...which puts me on the threshold of being tolerated for a few days but calls for 25% water change... which obviously would not help in this case. is there a way to address this amount of ammonia before adding this "fresh water source" to my tank?

[@beckyroberts9920]

... now going to the "keeping fish happy part two" video again to taking notes and figure out how to apply to my tap water specifics.

[@sidkeehasan8459]

How much for replacing a pump, please?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. It depends on which type of plug fitting you need as biOrb produce two pump models (depending on the age of your biOrb). Here are the two options (as advertised on Amazon): amzn.to/3B1xQNY or amzn.to/3Q6w8yY. From the two adverts you should be able to identify which is the correct model to match your biOrb socket. Hope that helps. Mark

[@sidkeehasan8459]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Many thanks indeed. Kind regards,

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Also, you may want to consider this product as an alternative to biOrb: amzn.to/3B7GH0k. (in black) or amzn.to/3CMsAPu. (in white) I've been testing one on these on my 30L for the past 6 months and have never had a problem with it. If pump noise is an issue, this product is certainly quieter than the biOrb pumps. It will work with 15l, 30l and 45l tanks and it fits the biOrb 4mm airline/ airtube. Mine is placed on the floor so you don't need to hang/stick it on the side of the tank as Hygger show in their sales pitch! . Just a thought! Best, Mark

[@michaelcox13]

Hi Mark, another really useful video. My biorb has been established for a couple of months now, I initially added 5 Rummy Nose Tetras followed by 2 Platy’s and all fish were very settled with pH, Ammonia, Nitrate and Nitrate levels in good order and stable. On Saturday I added 3 harlequin’s and I have lost all 7 other fish over the course of 4 days. Water quality has remained fine and the harlequin’s are thriving in the tank - any thoughts as I am completely baffled as to what has caused this?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Michael. Well, you can certainly add me to your completely baffled list! Oh dear, I'm really sorry to hear you've lost fish. I've never heard of anything like that before! Sometimes it can be the other way around (i.e. the new fish die the existing remain fine). But, both the new and existing fish are all hardy and should have easily managed the slight changes without any issue, especially in a tank that is reasonably mature and stabilised in terms of ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH etc. The most likely thing I can think of is that the new fish had some kind of bacteria/illness that, when introduced to your tank, transferred to your existing healthy fish. When you added the new fish, did you also include the water they came with or did you net out the new fish before adding them? It might be worth speaking to your supplier just in case a similar thing has happened with other recently supplied fish (although they might not admit it anyway!) If you speak to the supplier let me know what they said. Best, Mark

[@rachaeldantonio8532]

Thinking of getting the flow 15, do you think I could have a single betta and snail?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Rachael, nice to hear from you. If you are sure you are going to just stick with a betta and a snail then getting a 15 L for them is fine. You would be very limited in terms of adding any fish (biomass) beyond that. The key thing to check is the pH of your tap water supply as bettas prefer slightly softer water pH: 6.0-7.5. For the snail, generally they need water above pH7. It is best to add the snail about 3-4 weeks after the tank is cycled/adding the betta as this will ensure a good supply of biofilm/algae etc. When choosing snails avoid species that reproduce easily (e.g. ramshorn) as your tank will soon be overrun with snails. I always suggest nerite snails to avoid this. Nerite snails are generally short lived (1-2 years), so when choosing one it is better to go for a smaller (younger) snail.Hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark

[@rachaeldantonio8532]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb thank you for your thoughtful and helpful reply! After reading more about things, I think we’re going to go with the flow 30. Overall, all you happy with yours?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Rachael. Yes, the 30l is a far better size for an aquarium and gives you more flexibility to add more fish species etc. The 30 will also retain better water quality conditions for fish too... purely due to it holding twice as much water. The Flow is a good design (although generally 'a 30l is a 30l' regardless of shape etc). The Flow also a slightly larger lid opening then compared to a Loop or Classic, making it a little bit easier to undertake maintenance etc. If you are going for a new tank it is a good time to consider if you want to use the "old style" ceramic media (that comes with the tank) or if you want to get the new biOrb Pearl Media - as it is easier to get Pearl from day one rather than change the tank over to it later on. Best, Mark

[@cliveo3]

I have a 35 litre Biorb tube and keep African Dwarf frogs in mine and live plants

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Clive. You're not the first to mention that on the Channel (possibly one other!) ... but it's a great (alternative) idea. Thanks for your comments, much appreciated. Mark

[@cliveo3]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb ADFs are not good swimmers and have bad eyesight ,the 35 litre is ideal for them and with all the substrate ,they have about 12 inches of water to swim to the top for a gulp of air anymore and you run the risk of them drowning . Nice helpful channel you have Mark .

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Thanks Clive. They happen to be a species I know so little about. Interesting input from you as I didn't know any of that. Next time I get a question on ADFs (not that I get many) I might direct them to you (if you don't mind?). Best, Mark

[@cliveo3]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb No worries Mark

[@mollychrisa1]

Thanks This is halvfull ☯️🐟🌿🐇🐟🐟🐟🐟😌😆Thanks 🌠

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Ideffix. A big thanks for your watching the Channel and for your support. Really appreciated. Best mark.

[@molliegopalan1009]

How I wish it was easy to get info./#s for my water! I live in the country= well water:( So, guess I have to test my water prior to selecting fish.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. Yes, sorry, if you are on well water you will need to test it. Can I just check if your water is going through any type of filter/softening system?

[@molliegopalan1009]

Hi Mark, yes we do you use a filter/ softener system since our water is so hard.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Mollie. Okay, that water might not be suitable for use in an aquarium. Is the softener based on salt? Do you have a tap that can be used to extract water before going into the filter/softener system? This would normally be a garden based tap?

[@molliegopalan1009]

Hi Mark- yes our softener system is salt based & all our taps including our garden hoses run through this system... Is that an issue?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Mollie. I'm afraid so! Do you have no source of direct water prior to the salt water treatment?