biOrb Aquarium | Removing biOrb waste and sludge

[@pamuppal4468]

Thank you for another great video, I've never cleaned the media before, so will be giving this a go over the weekend. The only thing I would add is washing hands with a plant based hand wash so you don't introduce chemicals from your hands into the aquarium or alternatively wearing gloves.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Pam. Absolutely agree - regarding the hand (and arm) cleaning before putting you hand into an aquarium. It's a good point that I never mentioned on the video but I always do myself too. Cleaning the media can throw-up some surprises in terms of the quantities of material that is under your media! Good luck with doing it all and let me know how you get on. As always, a big thank you for taking time to make comments and for your regular support to this channel. Much appreciated. Take care, Mark.

[@pamuppal4468]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb I finally got round to doing this and it worked out great, certainly helped in lowering nitrates, I was able to skip a few water changes! The only thing I noticed was that because I have the halo type it is more dome shaped at the base with a smaller surface area compared to other biorbs so there wasn't actually much waste at the bottom, it tends to pool in the middle where the filter is and is easy to remove with similar results with the automatic gravel vac without removing media, so I'm thinking I can skip this for the Halo or perhaps do this every few years or so. I didn't add any beneficial bacteria and the cycle was absolutely fine. Thanks again for doing these videos they have helped so much. Perhaps you could do a video on treating sick fish, I've seen a lot of questions in fish groups and got me thinking.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hey Pam. Really nice to hear from you again. Yes, that makes sense with the halo - the waste moving more centrally so is easier to remove using a vac. biOrb designed their whole system on this original shape of tank and I'm not sure that it works so well with their flat bottommed aquariums. You only need to clean the media when it is needed and, without a vac, it probably needs to be done numerous times a year to remove the waste. The main reason I would do it in your case is to help refresh the surface of the media which may get a bit grimy over time and so might reduce the functioning of the beneficial bacteria (which is aerobic and needs a good oxygen supply). So, in this case, it is less about removing fish waste. A good rinse will help to cleanse/ refresh the media. If you start to notice the aquarium slowing in the conversion of nitrite dirty media is likely to be the cause. But, it sounds like the orb design is far better for this sort of thing compared to the flat bottom tanks! I hadn't thought of that - the orb shape is acting like a sump for the waste! BTW I will be joining you in Halo ownership soon (I have a 60l on back order but it hasn't arrived yet) so I will be doing videos to cover that style of aquarium soon (as a fair number of Channel subscribers have the orb shape). It would be interesting to test the performance of orb vs flat. Regardless, it will make a change from always doing vids about flat bottomed aquariums! Lol! Best wishes, Mark.

[@michaelcox13]

Another fantastic video Mark 👏 My biOrb is nearly 12 months old now and I have never used a vacuum or cleaned my ceramic media. Will definitely be following your advice and doing so now to give my aquarium a refreshed look. Thanks.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Not a problem Michael. I would suggest giving the tank a good clean out using a vac first. That will probably be enough as you will probably get most of the waste build up out (and you don't need to remove all of it...as the bacteria rely on it). Failing that, then the ceramic media removal would be the second step if needed. Best wishes, mark

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Sorry, I should have added... As you haven't cleaned the level of waste for this period of time, doing a major clean could be detrimental to the fish (i.e even rapid changes from bad conditions to good conditions can be detrimental as the fish will have adapted, to some extent, to the water conditions). So, I would use a vac and remove say about 50- 75% of the waste initially. Then, when doing future water changes, use the vac again to remove some more waste until eventually (over the period of a few weeks) you are in control of the waste. Doing it this way may take a little bit longer but it will result in better conditions and water quality (and healthy fish). I think it is just a matter of improving things in steps rather than in one big hit! Hope that helps. Mark

[@michaelcox13]

Thanks for the advice personal to my situation Mark, really appreciate that. I wouldn’t want to cause any disruption to the fish and snails having had a difficult start to my biOrb last winter. The ships been steady for 6 months or so now so keen to keep it that way. I’m also looking to change for some of the ornaments in my aquarium for something brighter, will purchase the biOrb items but wondered if you had any advice when doing this? Is it good to wash them in aquarium water before introducing for example? Thanks.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Always happy to help Michael. Not a problem. In terms of new products to be added. The only thing I don't do is to rinse them in tap water before then adding to the tank (despite this being the instruction on the biOrb packaging). My preference is to give them a rinse/soak in a bucket containing tap water treated with a normal dose of dechlorinator (e.g. AquaSafe). Dechlorinators are fairly good at removing many things so they are a product that is always useful to use. After that, new things will be fine to add to the tank. Best, Mark

[@richardchamberlain7211]

This is the video I needed to see!! Thank you for another quality video. I will be getting one of those vacuums and the 3 buckets idea is great!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Richard. Yes get the vacuum brand I describe in my "vac video" - they really do work well with ceramic media. And, you certainly can't go wrong with three buckets! :)

[@richardchamberlain7211]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb I just wondered if you worry about using your hands inside the tank. For instance if you've recently washed your hands in anti bac soap or even in tap water which we know has chlorine in. Do you kind of leave it a certain time before putting your hands in. No doubt you have considered this in one of your many vids.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Richard. I always wash my hands (arms if needed) under running tap water prior to putting them in the tank. I would certainly avoid using soap products as a means to wash hands prior to putting them into the tank - despite how "natural" they say they are. After rinsing, properly dry your hands with a towel and then you are free to go. But, I think it is always best to limit the frequency of putting hands in the aquarium anyway. Most tropical fish are not impacted by a very small amount of chlorine/chloramine (but I'm talking about small trace levels here, which may remain on your hands/arms). Levels of chlorine raised above 0.05 ppm will be fatal to fish and it is certainly far more toxic to fish than ammonia. One of the benefits of using activated carbon in an aquarium is to deal with such trace levels. Chlorine/ chloramine levels in tap levels tend to be between 0.5 to 1 ppm. Most leading brands of conditioners neutralise tap water containing up to about 1.5 ppm of chlorine but not really at higher levels than that (increasing the dose of conditioner applied is one thing to do in that case or to "cut" tap water with another water supply/bottled/ or zerowater). If you find (because of Covid protections etc) you are frequently applying antibacterial gels, soaps etc through the day (although many tend to be alcohol based) you could always play safe and rinse your hands in water made safe with a normal dose of your water conditioner. Best, Mark

[@richardchamberlain7211]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb thanks Mark, great tip on the washing in conditioned water.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Ian, I do need to get far better at this KZbin thing, so... if you liked the video, please give it a thumbs up and if you value this channel please Subscribe. It all helps. :) Shout if there is anything else I can help with. Best, Mark

[@amyc8112]

Great video. I had multiple questions after watching this but they were all asked and answered in the rest of the comments. Thanks again.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Glad the comments were helpful! Yes, the comments are also a good thing to look at too - most people focus on the videos themselves! Thanks for watching... and for looking :)

[@peterjones4112]

That is another really great video MARK - i really enjoyed it and will certainly rewatch again later tonight. Thanks for your detailed approach to doing all these videos they really do take me through the process. I look forward to cleaning out my new aquarium how you describe in a couple months time. I need to get back to you about TDS - I didnt have the test kit you mentioned so I ordered one. I will let you know my water readings soon. Thanks from Pete.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Many thanks Pete. I'm glad you enjoyed it and thanks again for your kind comments. Yes, let me know your GH and KH and then I will let you know what further you might be able to do with zerowater. Thanks, Mark

[@goncalosantos9767]

Another great vídeo to apply not just at biorbs, but in all types of aquariums. Keep up with the vídeos that brings good information. Regards from Portugal!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Goncalo. Many thanks for watching and your continued support. Best wishes, Mark

[@barrylovegrove7366]

But watch out for all the unknown fry you didn't know you had until you disturb the media. I had to get them out of the tank to save them from the bigger fish. Great video!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Yes, one thing you may need to look out for and especially if you have livebearer male and females. :)

[@isabelcristinanunesfrantz8770]

Thanks for this video Mark.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

My pleasure! Glad you liked it. Mark

[@foltz-art]

Incredible information I enjoyed this immensely and I'm learning a lot here bless 🙌 you cool video. ✌🐟🐟🐟🐟

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Thank you once again. I really do appreciate your supportive comments.Thank you, Mark

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi again, I do need to get far better at this KZbin thing, so... if you liked the video, please give it a thumbs up and if you value this channel please Subscribe. It all helps. :) Shout if there is anything else I can help with. Best, Mark

[@duncanfraser9979]

Love this video Mark exactly what I’m going to do tomorrow, when I was in Croatia and my cuz was fish sitting she knocked the timer switch for the lights onto constantly on…so I’ve had some unwanted algae growth and pesky snails but I think I’m just about back on top of it. After some weeks worrying I can know look back and laugh as it’s all a learning curve…I’m going to do this tomorrow and add more ceramic media for my 60l so I can raise the bed to the level above the plastic as I hoping to add some shrimp and think it would be beneficial to be able to see them if I raise the ‘bed of you like…my neon tetras are doing fantastic I really really enjoyed the process so far and learning from mistakes hopefully it will be easier going forward. Hope your well and keep up the great videos ;)

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hey Duncan All fine here. Hope all is well with you too. I'm helping a few people with difficult cycling at the moment so that takes up a fair bit of my time. Hoping to get round to doing some new videos soon... but easier to do when my kids go back to school :). Yes, it's a great hobby and it can often keep you on your toes. I'm testing numerous different things in my tanks at the moment so that keeps an interest going. So, it's one of things that you can never really stop learning about... Mistakes, unfortunately, do help a lot with the learning curve. I rarely do a complete ceramic media removal as the use of a vac manages to get rid of most of the gunk, although I did do one several weeks ago. It doesn't take long to do (that's if your'e not trying to make a video of it!) so you should find it reasonably easy. If adding more ceramic media, a good thing to do is to place the new at the bottom of the tank first and then add the old on top - or, alternatively, mix the old media with the new together and then add it all back into the tank. Have fun! :). Best wishes, Mark

[@SjefVanOekelDraaftDoor]

Hello Mark, hope you're doing well. My tank is now almost a year old and would like to know if I have to change the ceramic media and how to do this best. I really can't remember if you have made a video about this. Does the ceramic media have to be changed with new media once a year or is a thoroughly cleaning with tapwater, done in steps within a few weeks sufficient? Thank and best - Roel

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Roel. All well here and I hope the same with you. Normally I would suggest that the ceramic media will last for at least several (and more) years. It is good to occasionally give it a rinse through, like I did in this video, and then slowly add it back in. Another thing you can do is occasionally (say every 6-month or 12-months) remove a good handful of the existing media out of the tank and then add the same quantity of new media back in. Don't over do how much you remove and replace in one go and use a bacterial booster to support bacterial recolonization. Hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark

[@SjefVanOekelDraaftDoor]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thanks Mark - good advice as always. Best to you 👍🏼 Roel.

[@carolradcliffe6856]

Brilliant video. Thankyou.

[@NorthernMigrationTravel]

Very helpful... thank you mate 👌

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Always good to hear from you. Hope all is good. Glad you liked the video (it took KZbin over 20 hours just to upload it - from yesterday! Argh! Things are never easy! :) Take care, Mark

[@NorthernMigrationTravel]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb KZbin 🤦‍♂️

[@jennieschow8430]

Thank you for the tutorial. Just set up my biOrb Tube. Do you mind sharing the type/brand of vacuum you are using? Thank you

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Jennie. Nice to hear from you. My video on "Do vacs work?"covers the product I use and also tests another one. For cleaning biOrb ceramic media I would certainly go with the HydroVac which is available here (as well as other places) as I find this a good product for use with biOrbs: amzn.to/3CdCruX. I hope that helps. A big thanks for visiting the channel and for watching. Best, Mark.

[@orlaghrosee1835]

Hello again, I have set my BioOrb life up and it’s all good apart from the fact that I can’t fit my lid on. The heater cable is too thick so it makes it unable to shut properly. Is there anyway I can make it close?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Oh dear! I assume it isn't a biOrb heater? The only thing I can suggest is to slightly widen the hole with a very sharp knife (slowly trim fine slithers off from each side) but if the cable is very thick I'd be tempted to return the heater (as being not suitable) and get a suitable replacement.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Orlagh. Did you manage to sort this?

[@leslieharrissteinman677]

What brand is your vacuum? I like that because it’s battery operated. Mine is a plug in and it’s too hard to hold the wire and concentrate on the vacuuming. Also, I have the circular BIORB 16 gallon tank. I wish I didn’t choose the round one. It’s very hard to see in the tank as it’s distorting. Anyway I have this fuzzy looking white film buildup on My fake plants and also on My big black stones on the bottom of the tank. My water seems to be ok in terms of clarity and chemical balance. What do you suggest? I want to take it all out and wash it but I think u said not to wash the plants in tap water? How do I clean them? New tank just added fish a week ago. (Also I’m in nyc)

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Leslie. Great to hear from you. The vac I recommend for cleaning under biOrb ceramic media is the Tropical Reef Hydro-Vac (battery operated, and batteries last for ages!). Compare eBay and Amazon to get the best price for one. They come with a hose to allow you to use them for water changes too. At the price they are a no brainer purchase! See my video on vacs to show how to use it (you basically don't use the gravel cleaner end section!). The HydroVac is the only vac product I've found that allows owners to clean-up waste material under the ceramic media. Re the white fuzzy material. I need to know exactly what it is before I suggest what you need to do to fix it. It very likely to be associated with higher nutrients in your water. Are you able to send me a photo of it? Just send me a photo to the email address at the bottom of each video's Description so I can identify what it is (as I don't think KZbin allow you to add photos to Comments). In terms of cleaning, yes, you can certainly wash pebbles, biOrb plants and decor etc under tap water (but NOT the ceramic media). But, I'm not sure tap water is going to clean them properly anyway. See my video about cleaning with a dilution of basic bleach if you want to remove any build up of products (that approach works perfectly!). But, I must add, your tank is only one week old....often new tanks can go through an initial bad phase in terms of their appearance (and, they will grow out of it!)... As it is new, this is very likely to be the reason why you are getting the white fuzz you mention. Do you have a water test kit to allow you to test ammonia, nitrite and nitrate? If so, can you let me know the readings you have? Another question, what method/product did you use to prepare ("cycle") the aquarium to prepare it for fish and how many fish did you add and what species? BTW I had to laugh... I thought your comment, after my first reading, said "Mine is a plug in and it's hard to hold the WINE and concentrate on the vacuuming" :) LOL! Best, Mark

[@leslieharrissteinman677]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb oh My!!!! I didn’t mean wine!! HahaHaha I meant wire! 🤣. Anyway thank you for your speedy response! I’ll look for your email now so I can send a photo of the white foggy weird film.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Not a problem! And, steady with that wine! :) LOL. email is: [e-mail]

[@orlaghrosee1835]

Hello, it’s my birthday soon and I’m getting the BioOrb life 15L could you put a Betta in there? If not could you please recommend any other tropical fish! Any other tips will be great!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Orlagh. I'll start off by saying a Very Happy Birthday (for when that arrives). 15L aquariums are small (for an aquarium) but they are certainly suitable for a Betta. They are lovely fish with really great personalities so I would certainly go with getting one (they are also happy to be by themselves). You will certainly need a heater for a Betta. If you are new to having an aquarium you will need to "cycle" the aquarium. I strongly suggest you follow the method I suggest in my video about introducing your first fish (no need to add the biOrb sachets supplied with you tank). Betta can be a bit sensitive to some forms of tank cycling but the method I suggest (using ATM Colony Freshwater) will be more than safe for what you need. In terms of other fish, most tend to prefer to be in groups of 5 or more which is a bit too many for a 15L so I would certainly go with a male Betta. I hope that helps. Thanks for visiting the Channel and I hope you feel it is a channel worth Subscribing to. Best wishes, Mark

[@MatthewHewitt1984]

Hi Mark, please can you help me I have a BiOrb Life 15 and I have this powdery rubbish in the bottom, last time I emptied the complete full tank and fish luckily all water was fab and never lost a fish. But yours looks better your way. Can you tell me which hoover you use and also does the hoover have a machine suction on it? Also can I use the hoover without removing any of my ceramic media. I’m sick of my water going cloudy a lot but my fish are great none died and no problems with water as I regularly test it and do water changes.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. Yep, a vac will help take this all out and avoid needing major clear outs and removing media! You need to push the vac end through the media and extract the material underneath. Do this weekly, like I do! The main thing is that your fish are okay. Have you established what the source of the powdery material is? A vac will certainly take this out but it is also worth establishing exactly what it is. You say the water is cloudy? Do you have any white biOrb sculptures/deco? Of all the vacs on the market (and there are numerous), there is ONLY ONE type that works well with a biOrb I'm afraid. You can easily get one from Amazon and most are next day delivery. The product is made by a single manufacturer (in China) but it is sold under different supplier names (they are all the same!). Get a battery powered one and one that is supplied with a hose (to make water changes far simpler). They are currently on Amazon as follows: amzn.to/3PmlHJr or amzn.to/3PJos90.

[@MatthewHewitt1984]

Hi Mark the Vacuum isn’t available anymore can you plz recommend one I like the one you have

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

See my other response. I've added in live Amazon links to current products.

[@MatthewHewitt1984]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb I looked but those things wasn’t coming up with right products

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Yes, those are the right products which can be accessed via Amazon using the links I provided (they are currently showing as live products and currently available on Amazon)... and are the one I use. It is the same product I reviewed here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/raW4YXanrZ6sm9U.

[@lindahowe9936]

This is great thanks so much

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Many thanks. I hope you find it helpful. Best, Mark

[@steveb149]

How do you heat the 10 clean litres........from the hot tap adding Aqua Safe ?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Stephen. Yes you can use hot water from your tap to get the water to the correct temp to match your tanks water. Boiled water from a kettle can also be used to do this. Once the water is heated to the temp to match your tank you then add AquaSafe. The water is then good to go to add to your tank. Best, Mark

[@SarahWalton-xo7sg]

Thanks to you other advise about getting a battery vac (which I have and use every week), how often would I need to remove the ceramic media in the way you show in the video? Thanks for any advice, S

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Sarah. If you are using a vac weekly you might not need to do it. The best tip is to lift a handful of the ceramic media up from the bottom of the tank, if that releases a quantity of waste into the tank water, it is probably a good indicator that cleaning, the way I show in the video, is needed. It's a hard one to call as it is very dependent on the extent that fish are being overfed, the number/type of fish etc. If there are signs of waste food that the fish are ignoring (lazy!) on plants an other things, this is often a good indication of too much food being added. One approach that does work well, is have one day per week where you don't feed the fish. This will help to get them to focus on clearing up wasted food. The other thing to do is add a few small fish that are happy to clear up, such as pygmy cory (I have them in all my tanks!). Best wishes, Mark

[@mallen963]

Great videos, thank you. Haven’t bought my biorb yet thought it was best to know what it entails first. And watching these videos gives me all the info I need. So the biorb I’m looking at purchasing is the round 60ltr one. Is cleaning the ceramic media process the same ?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. I'm glad you find the videos helpful. Many thanks for visiting the channel and for your support... much appreciated. Very good idea to watch some of my Channel before committing to getting a tank! Hopefully my videos cover all the basics you need to know. Speaking of 60L Classic, see my video about setting up a new 60L here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gqrCeZqLq9GZd80. The general rule with aquariums is the larger the tank the easier it is to look after. The 60L size is a good choice. I'm sure you (and fish you finally get) will love it! For the most part, frequently using an aquarium vacuum will greatly reduce the need for you to do a deep clean under the ceramic media in the way I demonstrate in this video. But, yes, the approach to removing and cleaning ceramic media remains the same regardless of which biOrb you choose. I'm not saying that you won't occasionally need to do such a clean but using the correct vac for a biOrb will do most of the work for you (if used fairly regularly). I'm confident in now saying that "you shouldn't get a biOrb without also getting a vac"! See my video on vacs here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/raW4YXanrZ6sm9U. The only vac product that works well in a biOrb is this one: amzn.to/3aavrG3. Other vacs just don't work with ceramic media! If you do get a tank, and if you need any advice/help with setting it up and the cycling of the aquarium (so that it is suitable for fish), ... just shout! Best wishes, Mark

[@catalinafrancis6212]

Where is your vaccum from?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Catalina. They are available from a wide range of online shops, eBay, Amazon etc. I'm not sure of any particular retail shops that sell them. If you search online for "Tropical Reef Hydro-Vac", this is the product I tested and use. My video called "Do Vacuums work?" tests this product and another one similar. Thanks for watching and commenting. Best, Mark

[@vinitabraham909]

Thanks for creating the video for this. It seems the Tropical reef HydroVac is not available in the US. Please let me know if there is another product you recommend

[@chrisfry5225]

Loving your videos and have taken a lot of your advice on board. However, my 3month tank has had a diatom (brown algae) issue over the past 2months. Any idea what the cause of this could be? I’ve read lighting could be an issue but surely if that’s the case then everyone with a biorb would have diatom blooms. My tap water has a TDS reading of 280…

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Chris. Yes, light is normally associated with this but also (and possibly more) is nutrient levels (nitrate, phosphate). I think what triggers mine is the high nitrate coming in through my tap - although I regulate that far more recently using Zerowater to reduce nitrate levels down. Have you checked your phosphate levels (tap and aquarium)?. Strangely enough I don't really have it in the other more mature biOrb! Best, Mark

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Chris. Did you manage to get on top of the diatom issue you had?

[@lisabarlow6888]

Where did you get the buckets with lids from?and what litre per bucket should I buy? been searching high and low for these buckets with lids.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Lisa. The best place is Amazon. I suggest a set of three different sizes and these ones provide the best range of sizes with each having a marked measurements up the side : www.amazon.co.uk/Plastic-Kitchen-Cleaning-Storage-Container/dp/B07WW1F45C/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=buckets+with+lids+set+three&qid=1638750152&sr=8-8. Best, Mark

[@louiseharvey7724]

Hi. Just wondering why we shouldn’t use the Biorb pads on the outside of the aquarium. I tend to use the the soft side on the outside. Am I doing damage/causing scratches?? Many thanks.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Louise. Most forms of cleaning products can cause very light scratches on the outside over time (especially if too much pressure is applied) that would catch light and therefore show up. biOrb Cleaning Pads are intended for inside aquarium use. For cleaning outside the very best thing is a very soft microfiber cloth. The biOrb Polish and Cloth product is very good. That's what I use and it does provide a silky finish. I think other acrylic tank manufacturers produce their own version of the same sort of thing (such as ATM). So, I'd suggest pads for the inside and a clean soft microfiber for the outside. Best, Mark

[@louiseharvey7724]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi Mark, thanks ever so much for your reply. I’ve been using a magnet with cut to size cleaning pads attached to both sides to avoid any scratches - or so I thought! Will revamp my method 😂

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Argh! :) That doesn't sound the best of ideas Louise. Lol. Yes, totally ditch that idea. Get the biOrb cleaning product or nip down to Tescos, Sainbury's etc and get a cheap pack of microfiber cloths. If you do have any scratches on the outside, the Scratch Remover Polish will fix all those. Your comment made me laugh! ha ha. M

[@louiseharvey7724]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb I aim to please lol 😂😂. I can’t see any scratches but that’s not to say there aren’t any. Will get the cloths 👍 Thanks again. This is a great series of videos you’ve produced and I look forward to any future ones you’ve got planned x

[@LloydRandall]

do you have a link to the buckets?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Lloyd. The ones I use all the time are these ones (I have the set of 3 option): amzn.to/3Di5HD2. They all have lids and also have a measurement scale up the side. Hope that helps. Mark

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

I mark the 5 litre, 10 litre and 15 litre measures on the buckets using a permanent marker pen so that those amounts are really easy to see! Stanley permanent markers seem to stay visual for longer... other brands have a tendency to fade with use.

[@audinerd1622]

I know this is a late comment. Are zebra danios able to be kept in a 30L tank?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. Zebra Danios are a fairly active fish and I would normally suggest a minimum of 30l (ideally). But, yes, a 30 is fine for zebra danios. I've had them, for many years, in a 30. If only stocking the tank with ZDs I would limit the total number to 8 or 9. If it is a new tank, and is needing to be prepared (cycled) to support fish, start with a few initially. Once the tank is cycled you can then increase the number. Hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark

[@audinerd1622]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thank you sir, much appreciated. I was only thinking of keeping 6-7 of them. I’m assuming adding any other fish or snails would be too much?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi again. Adding snails wouldn't really make much difference in terms of the tanks bio load... or water quality. It is mainly the fish number, size, species etc. The number of fish a tank can support is also determined by the tank's water quality and especially the level of nitrate in your water supply. A tap level of 10ppm or more nitrate is going to start to restrict the fish number - as nitrate levels will begin to rise and will trigger the need for more regular and bigger water changes. But, generally, a 30l should support up to 8 to 9 small(ish) fish. The smaller the fish number, the easier it will be to retain a healthy water quality (although most shoal fish prefer to be in numbers of at least 5).

[@apkarchitecture]

Fascinating and well explained like many of your videos that I have been watching to support me on my Biorb journey! I wonder if you have any view on the “pond guru” biohome/bio gravel media? It would be lovely to have some sort of bottom dwelling fish in my 60 litre orb…..although perhaps the lack of surface area down there will make that one tricky regardless of the media……

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. Thanks for watching the videos and for your support. Much appreciated. There are mixed views on incorporating bottom-based fish and coarse substrates (such as Alfagrog, biOrb ceramic media). Some will argue that coarse media doesn't suit bottom feeding species whilst others say they haven't seen any negative results. I think this actually depends on the fish species in question. So, I have long had (very happy) pygmy cory in two of my tanks and both with biOrb ceramic media. I suppose that makes me one of those that hasn't seen any negative impacts (but just with that species - Corydoras pygmaeus). My cory spend a lot of their time swimming around the tank in mid-water and tend to feed off food that lands on "plants", the aquariums sides and decor. Many bottom feeding species are associated with requiring sand/soft bottom tanks (in many cases I think this is certainly the case but this also depends on the natural habitat they are associated with. It is perhaps less so with pygmy cories which are naturally associated with a broad range of habitats (Brazil) but often areas with dense marginal vegetation and lots of tree roots). They are fairly adaptable. The main problem with such small fish is that the odd one might get itself stuck between the ceramic media - so this is certainly an issue with ceramic media and a thing to keep an eye out for... especially for the few days following adding them to the tank. A less coarse media material would certainly be the (much smoother) Biohome gravel filter media but I'm not really sure this would offer any advantages for bottom feeders that specifically require soft or sand substrates. The Biohome is also too small for correct use in the biOrb filter system (which is an ":underr gravel filter sytem) and so needs to avoid any substrate material that may impede water flow within and below the substrate). So, after all that... I would suggest sticking with the substrate you have and perhaps look at pygmy cory (but ensure they are compatible with your water quality (preference is slightly softer acidic water pH 6.5 to 7.5, with some tannins - I add a few oak acorn caps to my aquariums to provide background tannin to avoid the "tea look") and the fish you already have. In a 60 you could certainly have a nice group of these tiny fish without adding too much to your bioload. Hope that helps. Best, Mark

[@seanaobrien5630]

Hi Mark, Sorry, you’ve probably been asked this before but how much ceramic media would you suggest for a 30L live?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hey Seana. So, for a 30l, if wanting biOrb ceramic media, I would suggest approx 1.5 to 2 Kilos However, Alfragrog E25 (but don't get the larger sized E40) is exactly the same product and far cheaper than biOrb ceramic media. See here: amzn.to/45ejLZr If going for the Pearl Media, the suggested amount for a biOrb Life is 2kg. Best, Mark

[@seanaobrien5630]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb thank you 👍

[@susanmetz9892]

You said that you added new water that had been declorinated. What product did you use for this? Also, can you just add bottled spring water and the 2 packets from biorb that we initially added when we started nip the aquarium?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Susan. Yes, a dechlorinator product should always be used when adding tap based water to an aquarium (it makes tap water safe for fish etc and deals with chlorine and other things that are common in tap water supply). I would normally suggest undertaking a part water change of the aquarium every week and so a dechlorinator would need to be added each time. I tend to use AquaSafe as the amount added to tap water is easily measured when dealing with smaller quantities of tap water for smaller aquariums. However there are many other good products that basically do the same. Yes, you could use bottled water but this should be spring water rather than mineral water. It is important to check the bottled water’s pH etc to make sure it is suitable/ compatible with your fish. Also check bottled water’s nitrate levels as these can be a bit too high for adding to an aquarium. I would always advise using tap water rather than bottled water unless there is a very specific reason not to do that (normally very poor tap water quality). As I mentioned above, you will probably need to undertake weekly water changes so you will need to find a long term solution to making tap water safe rather than rely on the initial products that come with a new biOrb. I hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark

[@peterwentworth9181]

Hi Mark, For me this is the most interesting video so far. I haven't done this job yet just used the vac weekly. I will follow your steps to do this. Do you think it is a good idea to use the old filter or add a new one during this process to keep the good bacteria in the system. Also do you add some extra bacteria products after the clean? Thanks Pete.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Pete. Really glad you liked it. You can see that despite me also using the vac weekly there was still a good amount of waste under the media (but this is nothing compared to what I used to get in my other aquarium). I always tend to not go too over the top with this particular clean as it is already fairly involved for the fish. If you added a new filter during (or just after) the process it would quickly discolour with all the waste still in suspension. I would rather let the old one do the final clean-up and then replace it with a brand new filter after a day or two. That then makes everything clean. As the vast majority of beneficial bacteria (BB) occupy the ceramic media in a biOrb, I tend not to put too much weight on the BB that might exist in the filter (the sponge filter is more the mechanical part of the filter system than being about BB). In past clean outs I have then undertaken a lot of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate tests following those and I have not recorded any measurable spikes in ammonia/nitrite. I'm not sure there would be much benefit in adding more bacteria via a product such as ATM Colony.on that basis But, it could be a good back-up if you did notice a small ammonia spike (but I don't think you would!). Saying that, if you did notice an ammonia spike, just not feeding your fish for 24-hours would probably achieve the same thing (i.e. not adding any additional new ammonia and letting the existing bacteria catch-up). I understand that a BB colony can double in size within 18 hours - within a heated tank. BTW - in the video I clearly just drop the ceramic media back in to the tank (thats the problem with trying to do a video that shows what I'm doing). Instead, I would put my hand right in and gently place the cleaned ceramic media at to the bottom of the tank - rather than create a rock avalanche! :). Hope that all helps. Nice to hear from you as always. Best wishes, Mark.

[@peterwentworth9181]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb thanks for the reply details. I have a Biorb Tube 30litre and can take the entire round top off. This should make it easier to take out and place media carefully. Thanks again Pete

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Even easier! for you, less about trying to do things via a narrow rabbit hole. :)

[@peterwentworth9181]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi Mark, I have now completed my first deep clean by removing the media and the aquarium looks beautiful. Before using the vac l cleaned algee from the acrylic and used a product that clumps the algee. I was then able to vac both waste and algee together before replacing the media. All the best Pete.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Thanks Pete. Yes, it's really (totally) amazing how wonderful an aquarium looks after a really good clean out. I think we all don't notice the gradual reduction in the appearance of the aquarium over time so, following a good clean out, the aquarium almost sparkles when it is done! Even the fish seem happier! It really does make a difference and I hope you found the effort (although it's hardly a total hardship!) worthwhile. On a scale of 1 (low) and 10 (high) was the amount of waste material (I'm interested as I know you are an avid vac person!)? The key reason I originally started to do this level of clean-out (i.e. all ceramic media out) was driven by my "prior to vac days"... and the waste material build-up then was often mind blowing! But even the regular use of my vac isn't going to stop me doing this particular clean. So, sit back, relax and enjoy your wonderfully sparkly and clean biOrb! Best, Mark

[@lewi981]

Great video, could.you please tell me which heater you are using please?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Lewis. Great to hear from you. Please refer to my video about heaters on this channel. I am using the biOrb Intelligent heater systems but biOrb no longer produce these. My video on heaters describes some of the best alternative heaters that are currently available. Hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. Just to let you know that biOrb intelligent heaters seem to be available again (I'm not sure for how long). If you are still interested in one (brand new) they can be purchased here: amzn.to/3n3vhTv

[@sukhmanichatha6864]

Hi Mark, Thank you so much for these informative videos. I am new to keeping fish and am planning to keep one betta in biorb life (4 gallon). How often should i perform this level of clean? Thanks so much!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. Nice to hear from you and thanks for visiting the channel. The need to do this level of clean is largely dictated by the build-up of waste under (or on)the ceramic media. Maintaining the right level of feeding will certainly help to minimise waste. If you also purchase a vacuum (the one described in my video about vacs) and do regular (weekly) removal of waste under the ceramic media this will greatly reduce the need to undertake further cleaning. A regular water change regime (weekly, try 10% but will be dictated by the level of nutrient build up especially nitrates) will also help and would reduce any build up of algae on the surface of the media. I would suggest that by doing those things you may not even need to do it after 12 months - and even longer. Undertaking the removal of the ceramic media and doing this level of cleaning should be driven by the need to do it rather than doing it just for the sake of it. You should find with a 4g and a singe betta the tank will be low maintenance and even more so if it an orb shape aquarium (as these seem to deal with reducing waste build up better due to the shape of the bottom of the tank). Hope that helps. Best wishes. Mark

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi again. Also, with a 4g tank, check the air flow (bubble rate) when it is operating. I have heard reports of this sometimes being very high in this size of aquarium and those conditions are not ideal for betta, which prefer a low flow. See my video on "Too many bubbles?" if that is the case as this describes what you would need to do in that scenario. Best, Mark

[@sukhmanichatha6864]

Thanks a lot Mark! I will check out your instructions about vaccuming the waste. I happened to have ordered the rectangular shaped biorb rather than the round.

[@sandybenoit551]

Love your videos. Can you tell me what model aquarium this is, and the name of your vacuum? Thanks from Nova Scotia, Canada.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Sandy. Lovely to hear from you (and all the way from Nova Scotia!). So, in this video it is the biOrb FLOW 30litre with MCR lighting. I'm not sure if you can access links to Amazon UK but, if you can,: amzn.to/3iRwkI2. If you want to see the range of tanks that biOrb do this is a good catalogue to look through: issuu.com/isabellemann/docs/bi_biorb-catalogue-2022_b2b_2021_en_63169_lowres. The vac I'm using can be found in my video on vacs: kzbin.info/www/bejne/raW4YXanrZ6sm9U. This is currently the only vac product that works well with a biOrb. It is sold under different brand names but they are all the same. Again, using Amazon links it is one of these: amzn.to/3HjgmQ9 or amzn.to/3Xrwc0F. I hope that helps. Best wishes, and thanks for supporting the Channel. Mark

[@leetaylor4655]

This may be a stupid question, but would cutting down the centre tube effect the way the filter works?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Lee. I've never had a reason to try it. I would assume that the bubble tube length helps to determine the draw of water up though the filter system (this might be similar to how a fire chimney/flu works, the longer the flu the better the draw, and the better the fire). I would also assume that if biOrb wanted to make a bit more money out of people they would use shorter tubes. Lol! There is possibly a functional design reason that dictates an efficient length of bubble tube. In general biOrb seem to use tube lengths that are roughly 6" short of the tank's water surface. So, there is a reasonable variation between the different tank designs - mainly depending on the tank's height. The biOrb Tube 35l has a shorter tube than the taller 30l Tube. Those are just my initial thoughts and not based on anything other than a gut feeling. I hope they help. Best, Mark

[@todaysdentalcare4049]

Do you change the air stone?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi again. Yes. The air stone needs changing about every 6 to 8 weeks as they start to clog-up with use. I use non-biOrb products for these as they are equally as good and are far cheaper: amzn.to/3Vibke7 Best wishes, Mark

[@lynnroberts4201]

Great videos! Where did you get that heater from? I've been looking for one with a white/clear cable and I can't find one anywhere!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Lynn. I use biOrb Intelligent Heaters in all my aquariums but unfortunately biOrb stopped producing them about a year ago and you will struggle to find one. It's a shame because they are really great heaters for hiding away at the back of the aquarium - and they have a fine white cable too. If you do happen to find anyone with some left in stock let me know as I'd certainly get another. Best, Mark

[@emmalouise1336]

Morning Mark, hope you’re well? Please could you help 🙏 I’ve just recently cycled my tank. Yesterday I bought x8 Ember Tetra, they all seem to be doing okay, not hiding now. However they aren’t eating the flakes. The flakes are now covering the plants and obviously sinking on to the media. I don’t want the flakes to start rotting and causing problems. Any recommendations on a clean up crew for the biorb with original media? They offered Corys yesterday but I stated I had biorb media and he said they would struggle. So I’m guessing shrimp? This week I’ll be added a male Betta so also taking that in to account, could I add shrimp? I have live plants now and I did pick off 2-3 tiny snails so I’ve been advised I should put some assassin snails in there just in case I’ve missed some hitchhikers. Are assassin’s good at cleaning up? Thanks Emma

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Emma (good morning!). It can take a little while for fish to settle in, so feeding should be very light initially. I would also tend to crush flake food, so that it is a fine crumb, so that the fish can take the food easier. If crushed flake does sink to the bottom it is more likely to get pulled towards the sponge filter (larger flakes on the other hand will have a tendency to settle on plants etc and other surfaces and also sink below and get trapped in the media). Most clean-up crew-are best aded to a tank a few months after cycling. This period allows the tank to fully settle down and, by then, you are likely to see signs of algae/diatoms which is an important food source for snails, shrimps. Shrimps are also highly sensitive to changes in their environment so that is the other reason to hold off adding them until a tank has settled/matured. The best way to deal with snails and snail eggs on new plants would be to bleach dip them prior to adding to the tank. This greatly reduces the chance of adding snails etc to the tank (especially from eggs). If you do have snails in the tank which have come in with the plants then it can be a bit of a job to get rid of them. In terms of assassin snails, these are carnivores (unlike most other snails) that can be good to control other snail species. However, they will also feed on high protein foods but largely they would rather hunt out other snails, small shrimps etc. They tend to be suited to larger aquariums and also prefer stable water conditions. If you do end up with a snail issue then certainly they are something to consider adding (but just one!). Pygmy cory are okay in a biOrb, I've always had them... even with ceramic media. The only problem is that you would need to add say 4 or 5 as they prefer to be in a group. So, adding up your fish numbers that would mean you would have 8 ember tetra, 4 cory and 1 betta. This, in total, may be pushing the limits of your tank in terms of bioload. If this was me, I would be looking to remove any access waste with the use of a vac. A vac should easily deal with removing what you describe. Only feed the fish very lightly, and ensure the fish are eating it, before adding any more. I'm going to say that your fish should settle in shortly and will then more readily take-up the food they are given. Only feed once per day. So, the reason to get other species to clear up waste at this stage might be too early for that decision. They might not be necessary at all. A vac is the way to go initially. Hope that helps, Mark

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi again. Just to check re the fish not feeding, are your tank's water parameters remaining good (fully cycled) since you've added the tetras? So, ammonia = zero, nitrite = zero? If these peak it can sometimes have a tendency for fish to have less interest in food. Thanks, M

[@emmalouise1336]

Hi Mark, Thank you for replying again 😊 I’ll definitely start to crush the food. They seem to take tiny bits then spit them out. The plants have a lot of food on them. How long should I leave the food in there before removing everything to vacuum? It’s been cycled about 5 days so I’m hesitant to take everything out (including the media) to give the bottom a good vacuum. If I can get a Betta today will that eat the food that’s on the plants? Okay so I’ll get one assassin, if I see some pond snails starting to appear. I saw one detritus worm yesterday which I removed, again it must’ve come in on the plants. Will the Tetra/Betta eat them? I added the Tetra at about 5pm last night. Tested the water at 8am this morning. Ammonia 0 nitrite 0 and nitrate 10ppm. How long will it take before the uneaten food starts to affect the water? If the levels start to change do I do water changes and a good clean? Also do you think 8 Ember Tetra and one Betta is fully stocked for a biorb 60L cube? Would an assassin be possible in the future? It’s hard to find the info online to that question. Sorry about all the questions but biorbs seem to be harder to answer than ‘normal’ tanks. Thanks Emma

[@emmalouise1336]

Also I cycled the tank in 2 days adding nitrico goop (not sure if you’ve heard of it) I was stuck for 5 weeks with it doing nothing. I found nitrico goop by accident and gave it ago. It’s literally a brown sludge which is unlike any type of seeding in a bottle. Sure enough within 2 days it was done. They advise to fully stock the tank straight away as the goop is fully mature. So I don’t think my tank is as temperamental as growing BB from scratch, if that makes sense? Thanks

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi again. Yes, crunch the food. It sounds like you might have slightly overfed too (i.e. adding more food than the fish will readily take) . Add a tiny amount of food and watch the fish to check they are clearing it up. If so add another tiny amount. Small quantities are the way to go. It might be good to pull off the feeding for a day to see if that encourages the fish to clear it up a bit. As your tank is holding zero ammonia and zero nitrite I think you would be fine to do a vac around the tank. This will not impact on bacteria. Your nitrates are fairly low (which is good) and the waste food would take sometime (a week or more, as the food hasn't been digested by fish etc) before it starts to break down and finally show in tank nitrate levels. Detritus worms are fine (they are just part of the clear up crew and they help to breakdown waste and make it available for beneficial bacteria). There isn't really a need to remove them. I have seen fish eat them but generally fish don't tend to bother. They take them in, spit them out. I'm not sure they are the tastiest thing on the menu! In terms of stocking level, this is driven more by tank water quality and the amount of nutrient build-up rather than tank size. I would say to add the betta and then give it a few weeks to see how the water is (based on weekly water changes, and water testing). A betta is quite a big fish (compared to tetra). Let's see what the beatt does to the nutrient levels. If you don't have a high build-up of nitrate (after each week, then that is a good time to consider if you want to add a few more fish. It is always best to take things slowly at first... it is always easier to add then it is to take away in terms of fish numbers. I would say to do a part water change every week. The amount taken out depends on the tank nitrate levels. Probably replace 1/3rd of the water each week. Best to avoid tank nitrates getting up to 40ppm (although others would argue a higher level and others would argue you should aim to have none!). Stick to 40ppm as being indicative of nitrate getting too high. There is nothing wrong with doing weekly water changes with lower nitrate levels. Yes, an assassin would be fine once thing settle down (say a few months). Only get one though, and only get if you do end up having a snail problem. If you see any tiny snail in the tank (in the mean time), I suggest getting them out by dipping your hand in a removing them. It can be a tedious thing to do but over time it will clear them (if you have them). Nerite snails are better in terms of cleaning the tank. Betta often tend to be fussy when it comes to food (it depends on the individual, they vary a fair bit in terms of personality). Some only seem to like food when it is moving (i.e. dropping though the water or moving on the surface). So, he might clear up food, but equally, he might not. Best, M

[@janetbrevig8191]

When I remove 1 gallon ( I have 4 gallon) and when directions say add optimizer and good bacteria, is it just for the one gallon or for a full tank?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Janet. Basically, the only thing you need to add to the new water before adding to the tank is a dechlorinator (such as AquaSafe). This is remove/ detoxify harmful chemicals in tap water. Products such as Completer Care, Water Optimiser and Biological Booster are aquarium maintenance products that you would just add to the overall tank. You can add these products to the tank at any time including following a water change . Please see this video for further information: kzbin.info/www/bejne/lZrEh6KpZ5qFl7s Best wishes, Mark

[@apdroidgeek1737]

What algae scraper do you recommend for biorb?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. I wouldn't use any scraper on a biOrb/ acrylic tank as they are very likely to permanently scratch the "glass". For cleaning the "glass", this is best done during a water change (when the tank water level has been lowered a bit) using biOrb Cleaning Pads: amzn.to/4dMLbeq. The Pads are one of only a few biOrb products where I don't suggest a cheaper alternative brand - they last for ages anyway! For cleaning plastic plants/ sculptures/ decor that have light marking I suggest running these under tap water and then wiping dry before adding back to the tank. For heavy algae staining on plastic plants/ sculptures/ decor use the diluted bleach dipping method (see my video here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fGjOqq2LnriBa7s). Don't use bleach dipping or rinsing under un-treated tap water as a means to clean ceramic media or Pearl Media. This can be occasionally cleaned by removing and then adding to a bucket of extracted tank water. Give it a good rinse then carefully add the media back to the tank. I hope that helps, Mark.

[@caravines]

Hi Mark. Ive been using your channel as my go to guide for my new Biorb 15l. I have 2 goldfish in it. So far I have to clean it every week as the white Biorb trees go brown. Any idea why this is happening? We feed them a pinch twice a day. Is this too much? I looked for the vacuum you recommended but its not available at the moment btw. Thanks

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Cara. Normally I wouldn't advise having goldfish in a biOrb. They produce a lot of waste and this is what is triggering the algae/diatoms you have. I think you are probably also over feeding - try a small pinch once a day... not twice. In terms of your water quality, are you able to tell me what the nitrate levels are in the tank? You would absolutely benefit from the weekly use of a vac as you probably have a high waste content under your ceramic media. You can get one from Amazon here: amzn.to/3hPvGtA or here amzn.to/3XbkLdT. Can I ask how often you undertake a water change and how much water do you replace? Best wishes, Mark

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Cara. Sorry, another question. Can you let me know the ammonia and nitrite readings of the tank (as well as nitrate). I should be able to advise what to do based on responses to the questions I've raised. Thanks, M

[@caravines]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi Mark Thank you so much for replying. The gold fish started in a bowl but then I read about it being cruel so got the biorb. This was supposed to be a 3 year old pet!!!! Anyway, at the moment I am completely changing the whole tank about every 10 days. I tried swapping out half the tank and squeezing out the filter sponge but it didn't help at all. I will get the vac you suggested and cut down the food. Ill get some testing tips tomorrow and let you know the readings. Ive taken out the plastic trees to wash them today to see if that helps Thanks again

[@clarissea2018]

Hi! Totally new in the Biorb family! How often do you suggest on doing this on 8galllon tank. I have a lovely betta and 3 guppies.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Clarisse. I think the answer is based on whether you plan to use an aquarium vac as part of you regular maintenance or not. Aquarium vacs are very good for removing waste that can build up under the ceramic media. Their regular use can almost remove the need to clean the ceramic media as I showed in this video. Without the use of a vac, waste will start to accumulate under the media and this even more so if fish are being overfed. In this case I'd probably say every 6-months to do this level of cleaning. Issues relating to too much waste under the media will show in your water testing. Over time you will see increasing nitrate levels that you may struggle to reduce even though undertaking water changes. A good test is to put your hand in the tank and lift up a good handful of media. If doing this releases a lot of waste into the aquarium it is a sure sign you need to do something about waste levels. As I say, getting an aquarium vac (see my video on Vacs) really does help to reduce the problem and is something I really recommend for maintaining a biOrb. . Hope that helps, Mark

[@victoriaelizabeth222]

Hello again. Am I correct in thinking the reason you don’t add your chemical for speeding up cycling to the new water or tank is because the existing water in the tank is already cycled? So the new water only needs a water treatment? (Aqua safe)

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Victoria. Correct! Once a tank is cycled there is very limited reason to add further ATM Colony (i.e. supplementary bacteria) to the tank. The aquarium's beneficial bacteria should will be fully established in a cycled tank. The key exception would be when adding (increasing) existing fish numbers. If adding a further several fish, adding a further dose of Colony would provide a boost of additional beneficial bacteria to support the additional fish (i.e. to deal with the sudden rise in ammonia). Beneficial bacteria are not held in suspension within the aquarium's water as they are located on surfaces (in particularly the ceramic media). Water changes would therefore not reduce the number of bacteria and there is no need to add further bacteria with the aquarium. Adding further bacteria, for example - to support the reduction of waste, may be beneficial, so supplements such as biOrb's Biological Booster can be added for that reason and added on a weekly basis. I wouldn't say this is a critical addition though. AquaSafe has a completely different role to products such as ATM Colony and is used to remove the effects of chlorine and other harmful products found in most tap water. Chlorine is extremely detrimental to most aquatic life (e.g. fish, shrimps, snails, bacteria). So, a dechlorinator product (such as AquaSafe) makes tap water safe for adding to an aquarium. But, going back to your question, once cycled there is no real need to add further bacteria. However, tap water must ALWAYS be treated with dechlorinator before adding to an aquarium. Hope that helps, M

[@victoriaelizabeth222]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thanks for taking time to give a very detailed response. Makes perfect sense. How many aquariums do you have? Looking to get ours over the next couple of months but I like being really well prepared with knowledge before I start! 🤣

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

You're very welcome Victoria. I'm always very happy to help. I have three (operational!) biOrbs and a brand new one, still in its box, to set-up shortly. So, I will be releasing videos around the setting-up, stocking and cycling of a 60l Classic soon. My first ever biOrb was a total nightmare for me to get cycled and established (despite me having the experience of having larger tanks in the past). Hence the reason for the Channel - to help people avoid the many issues I had and trying to help speed up new owner's learning curve. BTW - really great that you are taking the time to get things right and researching well before you set one up (by far the best way to go). Best, Mark

[@victoriaelizabeth222]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Aww thanks! It’s what I’m like, methodical! 🤣👍🏻 look forward to your 60l vids!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Lol. Methodical... me too! That means your'e a perfect person to have an aquarium :)

[@mollysequoia7127]

I don’t have the rocks that come with it for the bottom as it was second had - is any rocks ok for the bottom

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Molly. There are various media products on the market that would work with the biOrb's filtration system. The key things is that the media must support (i.e. be a home for) beneficial bacteria and that it allows good water flow down and through the media. The media should also be inert, and therefore not leach materials or alter tank pH levels. As such, the use of standard aquarium gravel, sand or soil is not recommended for the biOrb's "under gravel" filter system. I've shown Amazon links to the products so that you can at least see the products I'm referring to... The standard (low cost) products normally used in these tanks are biOrb Ceramic Media amzn.to/3xfNv9Z or Alfagrog amzn.to/3QvYLG7. Both products are virtually the same,. The Alfagrog is a fair bit cheaper! Both products are fairly large in size. There are other suitable media products that will work in a biOrb but, if using the following you would need to add an adaption such as this one: amzn.to/3D9ZGsD. Using a filter adaption would enable the use of the smaller sized media products such Substrat Pro: amzn.to/3RU8Dua Substrat Pro is useful if you want to have a "sandy" coloured media compared to the standard grey/brown biOrb ceramic media/ Alfagrog. Alternatively, the following product is similar (but even smaller) than Substrat Pro and provides a darker colour media: amzn.to/3RPxKhL (but still needs the filter adaption). All of the above products support nitrifying beneficial bacteria (i.e. conversion of ammonia and nitrite) and water flow/ circulation. Regardless of which type of media you choose you will certainly need to get an aquarium vacuum to reduce waste build-up and retain good quality water. I find that smaller sized media has a tendency to trap more waste than the larger sized media. They therefore need to be kept clean through vacuum maintenance. This is the only vac product that works well with all the media I mention above: amzn.to/3De3MjM I hope that helps. Best, Mark

[@mollysequoia7127]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thankyou mark I am getting a betta will the stones hurt his fins , can i cover them with smooth rocks I collected some. From a beach

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi again. A Betta will be fine with all of the ceramic media products I mentioned previously. As Betta prefer neutral to slightly softer (acidic) water you would need to make sure that any natural collected stone wouldn't raise the aquarium's pH levels too much. Stones containing calcium can very slowly raise pH to about 7.6 to 7.9. The way to test natural stone is to put a small drop of vinegar onto each stone. You need to check that the drop doesn't fizz. Alternatively, if you have an API Test Kit (to test water), put a small drop of the Nitrate test liquid (Bottle No.1) on to each stone. Whilst it isn't completely true, I would suggest that if a stone fizzes it is probably not suitable to add to the tank with Betta. Only add natural stone if you are really sure it wont change anything in the water. Natural stone, especially taken from a beach, would need to added to treated tap water and be bought up to to the boil and then boiled for 15 mins before cooling and then putting in a tank. Whilst not entirely necessary it is probably a good thing to do. Betta tend to prefer spending time hanging around in the mid and upper layers of the tank's water. Therefore they spend most of their time well off the bottom where the media is. I would normally say that if a Betta is spending a lot of time at the bottom it can indicate something not quite right with the fish or the conditions in the tank. However, if you are still concerned about the course texture of the substrate material then the Substrat Pro or bio gravel I mentioned are both smooth textured products and are very suitable for adding to an aquarium. I hope that helps. Feel free to ask if you would like further advice etc as I'm always happy to help. Best, Mark

[@mollysequoia7127]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb can I use any vinegar to test the stone I used lemon juice and white wine vinegar and no fizzing

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. Yes, any type of vinegar should show some fizzing signs... if left on for 5 mins. If you don't get fizzing then that ticks the "okay to use" box. After that, just give them a boil and they should be good to go. Normally, with this sort of thing (even fizzing) most pebbles would be okay for many aquarium species, but with Betta you may as well keep the water quality within their preferred range (pH 6.0 to 7.5). Have you already tested your tap water pH to determine if that is suitable? If you haven't tested, your water supply company will provide their water quality information on their internet page. Let me know. pH and genera hardness (GH) (German measurement should be shown on their website) is probably the key thing to look at. M

[@janetbrevig8191]

My tank seems to be cloudy alot. I use the optimizer, then it gets more cloudy. I've had for a year and it's been just recently getting bad after my last big cleaning..

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Janet. Can I ask what decorations you have in the tank please? I am aware of some issues with a number of biOrb products, especially the white sea urchin set. Thanks, Mark

[@janetbrevig8191]

I have the clamshell ornament (sm). I have the 4 gallon tank. I did the 3 month cleaning and it is still cloudy. I have the biorb optimizer and lmagitarium biological booster. And when I do the one gallon change. Do I use the optimizer and booster for I gallon or enough for whole tank

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. Okay, I'm not sure it is a result of the clamshell. You would probably be able to see flaking of the paint if it was that. It sounds like a water in-balance in your tank and the cloudiness might be the result of algal bloom - this can often occur be more pronounced following water changes. A test for this is to turn off the air pump to the tank for say 30 to 45 mins. Let me know if the cloudiness continues in the water or if the cloudiness settles. If it is an algae bloom the cloudiness will remain in the water. I would pull off using the optimiser and biological booster for the time being, just to cancel that out. In terms of your tank's water quality, are you able to let me know what the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate readings are for the tank currently?

[@janetbrevig8191]

Hi, sorry this is late. I couldn't remember what "step" I put this on. Well I'm still having the problem I checked water and all readings are good, so I will change out a couple of gallons again and not use the chemicals you said to put off for awhile. How long should I wait?