biOrb Aquarium | How to clean biOrb plants and decorations

[@play4dc]

Thanks for all the information. You're why a finally got the courage to buy a second hand biorb set up! Wouldn't have done it without all your videos

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Thanks so much Chris. Those are really wonderful comments and very much appreciated. I'm so glad you've made the step with getting a biOrb - they are great things to have (but can be a bit of hard work, especially when things aren't going exactly to plan!!). If you are new to everything, hopefully my series of videos will take you through all you need to know. If I can help with anything just drop me a line and I will happily follow-up. Best wishes, Mark.

[@susanmetz9892]

This is exactly what I was looking for. You answered all of my questions without me having to ask.

[@SarahWalton-xo7sg]

I have the brown algae issue in my tank. Just to say, I followed your instruction fully and it works an absolute treat! I'm really happy with the results which certainly make things look brand new. I was initially a bit scared about doing it (using bleach), but now I have, I realise it is nothing to worry about. Great advice from you step by step.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Glad it helped! M

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

BTW brown algae (AKA diatoms) are typically present in newly set up tanks but will tend to diminish, or at least reduce, as the tank matures. It is always worth checking the level of nitrate in the tank, just prior to undertaking a water change. Look to keep levels well below 50ppm if possible (the lower the better!), having high nitrates in your tap water never helps! M

[@oliverstoneham1935]

Hi Mark, hope all is well. Just to say that this video was incredibly helpful as I very much needed to clean the tank and all the decorations in it. It took sometime as I was very careful with each step especially when handling bleach! Result is an almost brand new looking tank. I took my time and whilst I was at it gave it a vacuum as well. I will test the parameters in the morning to make sure all is ok. Interestingly it took approx 6 weeks for everything to balance out for my tank and once there it was easy to maintain. So the ph, nitrite,nitrate etc. I have 6 small fish and they are thriving, it’s an absolute joy to have fish in my life now. Thank you for all the videos to date and for your help as well! Regards Oliver.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Oliver. All well here (just taking a short summer break from video production whilst the kids are off!). I hope all is well with you. I'm very grateful for your supportive comments. Thank you so much! I'm really glad your tank cycled (you sound to be on the easy road now). Six weeks to get to cycled is really (really) good. Sometimes it can take a bit less, sometimes a bit more. Other methods can take months (and months, and months) and still not be right 12 months later. Yes, bleach solution is probably the best method I know to get things back to looking new again... and no scrubbing needed! All sparkly clean! I've never had any issues with this method and even use a very similar approach (just a shorter time) to dip clean real plants. Glad to hear your fishy friends are thriving now. The channel is all about helping people so if I've helped a bit that's great! If you have the slightest problem, drop me a line. I'm always very happy to (try) to help. Best wishes to you. Mark.

[@jenniferm7592]

Hi Mark - Another fantastic video from you! You do such a great job of providing the how too so clearly and concisely. I also appreciate the fact that you include the why. You answer all of my questions. When I saw this video and you were going to clean with bleach, I thought to myself "No Way"! But after watching this and seeing the results you got - I am sold. The tip at the end about rinsing again using water that is treated with the dechlorinator - great idea! So appreciate you and your videos! Please keep them coming!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Thanks as always Jennifer. Yes, initially the idea of using bleach for anything to do with an aquarium seems totally mad! lol. :). But it is a really great method to use to support the maintenance of an aquarium (and to remove pest species from purchased real plants). Glad you liked it! Best wishes, Mark

[@richardchamberlain7211]

Another super addition to the collection. Thank you!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Many thanks Richard and a big thanks for watching. M

[@jangunar249]

Nice video from you...

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Thank you so much. If you didn't know how to clean items with bleach... you do now! 🙂. Best wishes, Mark

[@gabyfoster5029]

Thanks for this video! It's saved me so much time cleaning my plants :D

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

And a big thanks for watching and visiting the Channel Gaby. :) Yes, its one of those no-brainer things to do... that most people are not aware of. It is the best way to clean aquarium artificial plants and decorations without the need for heavy scrubbing. Glad you liked it and thought it was helpful. Bleach is a wonderful product... although I hate the smell! Best, Mark

[@pamuppal4468]

Great video, I just tried this method today and it worked great, the decorations look brand new, previously I was just cleaning in tank water during a water change.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Many thanks Pam. Yep, it works really great and is probably better for decorations etc than scrubbing. My approach uses a slightly more diluted approach than what others suggest - but it always does the job. My double dose of dechlorinator just makes sure that everything is ready to go back into the tank. The same approach can be also used to remove algae etc off real aquarium plants but uses a shorter dip time (30 seconds to 2 mins) depending on plant type. Everything else remains the same in terms of dilution and double dose of dechlorinator. Lots of people also use a diluted bleach dip before adding new plants to an aquarium to ensure the removal of disease and pests. It's the way to go :)

[@matthewmaddocks6276]

Just catching up on your videos Mark. Super helpful as always!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hey Matt, and I was just think about you today and was going to drop you a line. you got there first! Everything okay at your end?

[@matthewmaddocks6276]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hey! Yeah all good! Battling algea and the media is filthy underneath so we have sat down to rewatch your hoover videos! Just ordered the hydrovac! We still adore the betta he's a bugger for butting the snail though! How's things your end?

[@matthewmaddocks6276]

Loving the step-by-step t-shirts!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

All good here, just trying to balance the demands of producing step-by-step videos with also having long weekends away camping and enjoying the sun (or rain)... so this sort of thing: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qHaVkp6MiKaqn6s. I seem to spend most of my time producing videos! Lol. Yes, you def need a vac my friend!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

:-)

[@NorthernMigrationTravel]

Very helpful as always... thanks buddy 👍

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Many thanks. You can look forward to a sparkly clean looking aquarium :)

[@NorthernMigrationTravel]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Great idea with the bleach… Up until now I’ve been using warm water and a scrubbing brush. Uses up way too much energy 😊

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Yes, in all that time wasted scrubbing you could have been just soaking it all - whilst waiting enjoying a cup of tea/ glass of wine/ pint of beer. :).

[@NorthernMigrationTravel]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hahaha brilliant... never again! I owe you a beer 🍺

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Lol. In that case... cheers :)

[@jeffsawkins]

Hi great videos, will this work with bio orb autumn plants they seem to be more material based. Thanks

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Jeff. Yes, it works the same with biOrb "silk plants", "silk" based ornaments, and also biOrb moss pebbles. Best, Mark

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Normal tap water cleaning (chlorinated) is a good approach for very regularly cleaning of silk plants. But the same can be said for all biOrb plastic based plants/ ornaments. When things get grubby, discoloured or stained... the bleach cleaning method it the best way to go and is far better than attempting to scrub them clean with a brush etc (which will certainly end up damaging them).

[@jeffsawkins]

Thanks so much,I’m just wading through your back catalog, loving them. Keep up the good work 👍

[@brianreece7139]

Just used this method and it works great…thanks for another great tip….this may have been asked before, maybe on other vids, but where did you get you large clear bucket and what size is it?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Thanks Brian. I'm glad it worked well for you... it's far easier than trying to scrub everything and it eliminates grime, algae etc. The buckets I use come in a set of three here: amzn.to/3u0qVE8 but you can also get the large 20L by itself here: amzn.to/49flMXJ. They are a really good product and all come with a measurement scale down the side and they also have lids. Best, Mark

[@brianreece7139]

Many thanks….@@StepbyStep-biOrb

[@kathleenc.8939]

Just the video I needed to watch next! Thanks for making cleaning Biorb decorations much simpler and for typing the steps out at the conclusion- really helpful! I wondered, can this bleaching process also be done with the Biorb artificial plants that are made with the silk cloth material? I have some of the plastic plant sets that I noticed in your video in different colors, but I wasn't sure if the bleaching can also be done with the Biorb silk plant sets as well, or if it would compromise the color or texture of the silk material. Hope to hear your thoughts on this.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. Yes, this approach lends itself really well to the biOrb cloth based plants. One of the plants I soak in the video is one of those. I've been cleaning the cloth type, as well as the plastic ones, for over a year now using the method and solution I describe without any compromise to the colour or material. The only things I don't clean that way are the "moss pebbles" - with those I just soak them in warm tap water and then dry them with a towel.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

You only need to soak things for as long as it takes to clean them really. If some items look sparkly clean after 5 mins (and they just might!) then take them out and rinse them under running tap water and then soak them in treated (dechlorinated) tap water for 10 mins.

[@kathleenc.8939]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thanks very much for responding so quickly. I appreciate it and am glad to be able to use your suggested cleaning method for the different varieties of BiOrb decorations safely. I like that this method is safe for the fish and for the condition and maintenance of the BiOrb decorations.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

@@kathleenc.8939 Your'e very welcome.

[@peterjones4112]

Another great video from you step by step. Your guidance on this channel is very good and is best biorb channel Ive seen. Now I know exactly how to clean plants and other biorb stuff. Great extra advice from you at the end about soaking everything in tap safe before putting back in the tank. How often do you think this needs to be done?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Many thanks Peter. I'm glad you found it helpful. Yes, soaking in AquaSafe is just one of my own additional steps I always do to make "double sure".

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

How often depends on a number of things but mainly the number of fish you have compared to the size of the tank. If your fish number is high for tank size I would probably say you will need to do it between every 6-weeks to three months. If you have a bit of an algae problem it might be a bit more like every 6-weeks but a couple of nerite snails will help to keep things cleaner. It also depends on how clean you like to keep everything in the the tank. Let's pitch for the middle ground and say every two months :-)

[@marcussmale6852]

Hello again another question please, I collected some very decorative white pebbles from the beach the other day, if I follow the cleaning instructions in this video will they be safe to put in my biorb? Many thanks

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Marcus. The safest thing to do is to give the rocks a scrub with a hard brush and then leave the rocks to soak in normal chlorinated tap water for 24 hours. After that, drain off the water and then pour over boiling water in order to cover them and then leave them in the water until it cools. The pebbles, once cooled will be fine to go into the aquarium. BUT, before you do all that! Depending upon the type of rock they are made from they might end up leaching (dissolving) minerals into the aquarium water... this would potentially raise the tank's pH reading. To test if a rock is safe to add into aquarium you need to undertake an acid test. The old method was to put a drop of lemon juice or strong vinegar onto the rock and look for signs of bubbling/fizzing. However, these are both poor tests as they are weak acids and may not cause much reaction from the rock. By far the best test is to use a reagent from an aquarium water test kit. If you have the API Freshwater Test Kit, it is the Nitrate #1 bottle that contains hydrochloric acid. Add a drop of Nitrate #1 to the surface of the rock in order to undertake the test. Any reaction to the acid (foaming/bubbling) should be fairly instant and if this happens it normally determines that the rocks are not "safe" to add to the tank. Do the acid test first and if there is no reaction to the acid then clean the rocks and soak them as I described. Best, Mark

[@marcussmale6852]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb thanks alot I really appreciate that, yes have the api water test kit so will do it first.

[@shaynacarey1957]

Hello :) did this work for the silk purple/blue aquarium plant? I have that plant and have tried everything to get the algae off, and I was wondering if this worked. Thanks!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Shayna. Yes, it certainly works well with biOrb "silk" plants the plastic plants, decor, ornaments and other things like biOrb pebbles. I've been doing it for long time now! :) With the silk plants it is better if they are cleaned this way when you first see signs of any algae build up. The longer they are left with algae the more difficult it is to get all the stain out. Try using the dilution and timing I suggest in the video and see if that removes it all. If not it would be worth soaking the plant for a longer time (try double the time). I would avoid scrubbing the silk plants as this will eventually deteriorate the material (it can start to fray along the edges). I hope that helps. Best, Mark

[@peterwentworth9181]

Hi Mark, Really useful video. I have never used bleach to clean the tank ornaments and pebbles. I have always spent ages cleaning under the tap with brushes etc. I will definitely give this a try. Thanks

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Peter. As always, thanks so much for watching. I would certainly suggest you put away that brush and give bleaching a go. It's really great for cleaning artificial plants if you have those too. Take care, Mark

[@peterwentworth9181]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb l have done the bleach clean for the first time today and the tank looks like new. Thanks Mark for the step-by-step guidance 😆. Got my basic bleach from my local hardware store 5Ltrs for £1.99. Absolute bargain 👍

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

At that price, it just has to be the correct stuff! As I suggested.... probably the cheapest bleach the shop does. :)

[@lauramiller5877]

Great, really appreciate this channel 👌

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Many thanks Laura... and I appreciate your comments. Best wishes, Mark

[@alidajacqmain9228]

Which would be the way to go for a seen a video of the ultrasonic cleaner clean plastic plants or use the thinned out bleach bucket way ?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Alida. You can go either way, to be honest. When I've seen people using ultrasonic cleaners to clean aquarium plants they still tend to use diluted bleach, then rinse the items in tap water, then soak with dechlorinator. For just a single biOrb, an ultrasonic cleaner is probably a bit of an overkill. The simple bucket method is far easier/quicker and everything can easily be put away afterwards. Ultrasonic cleaners are good when you have a good number of aquariums and need to do deep cleaning regularly. They probably are better at removing very deep ingrained staining. The real trick though, is not to let you decor and plants get to such a bad state before cleaning. The important thing is to also deal with the reason that is resulting in excessive algae etc (i.e. water quality, high nitrates/nutrients, over use of lighting etc). If you do get an ultrasonic cleaner, let me know how you get on with it. Nice to hear from you, Best, Mark

[@courtneyford1146]

Hi sorry I’m late to the party do you do this with new ornaments too. I got a 60l halo from my father-in-law came with some ornaments but I’m not too much of a fan and thinking of buying some new ones?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Courtney. Thanks for watching and welcome to the party. :). You wouldn't need to clean brand new ornaments etc with bleach solution. That's only needed to clean biOrb items when they are in use in the aquarium and start to look a bit discoloured due to algae grime etc. The bleaching method gives them a thorough clean and returns them to looking new. biOrb instructions are to rinse brand new products (decor, plants etc) under the tap and then add them straight to the aquarium. If adding to an aquarium with fish already in, I would tend to give them a 10 min soak in a bucket with warm tap water , with a double dose of AquaSafe (or the equivalent product that you use). Hope that helps. Anything else - feel free to ask. Best, Mark

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

By the way, I'm hoping to set up a brand new 60l halo shortly (from initial set up to adding fish) and to provide a number of videos covering this.

[@lukebreen1797]

Hello - I have watched a number of your videos which are most helpful thanks! I bought a second have biorb and have cleaned the plants/ media (no idea on previous condition) with your bleach solution recommendation, I have just rinsed the actual tank with tap water. Now it is all clean I am going to soak in Aqua Safe before positioning and ultimately then starting to fill with treated water. I plan on leaving the setup for a week or so before buying any fish. Is there anything else I should/ should not be doing? Also, do you use Tetra Easy Balance - if so how/ when? Many thanks!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hello Luke. Sounds like you've done everything you needed to do in terms of preparing the tank. Tap water for cleaning the tank is fine. Yes, give everything a good soak in Aqua Safe (double dose) to make sure it is all safe. And certainly do that for ceramic media if you have also cleansed using bleach solution. Do a nose test (smell) to check the ceramic media doesn't have any signs of bleach before use (it has lots of pockets that could retain bleach solution). When all good to go, fill up the aquarium with the normal dose of treated tap water and just let the aquarium run (airflow and heater on if using). Doing so for a week is good but no need to go longer than that. Are you planning on using ATM colony to cycle the aquarium? I would suggest you do so. I can't say I use (or have really needed to use) Tetra Easy Balance even though I have it. I would go with what you have and keep things simple (I'm not one for adding more chemicals than I really need to and without reason). It might be worth getting the small bottle size (100ml) but keep it in reserve just in case you need to balance pH etc later. It is just yet another chemical that you would add to your water weekly! On a 30l that's around 8ml/week of chems! My preference would be to get the tank cycled (Colony) and your fish stocked. Your water testing will determine if you need to call on any other products to deal with any issues that may arise (although it is more likely that you shouldn't have any issues). I'm happy to advise if any issues arise. Thanks for watching and supporting this channel. Best, Mark

[@lukebreen1797]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Many thanks for such a helpful response. Yes, I will be using (ATM Colony on your rec!) but I was only going to add it closer to adding the fish? The week delay is more about being able to get over to the fish shop around work and kids (!) - hopefully wont be a week but if it is could that cause a problem? Cheers, Luke

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi again Luke. Yes go with ATM Colony (Freshwater) as I have never had an issue with this product in terms of cycling. This can be applied to the water just prior to putting the fish in (my rec) or a day or two before. What I would do is apply the atm then go out to your aquarium shop to get your fish - you can then just focus on introducing the fish when you get back. Remember just to light feed the aquarium directly after adding the fish then add no further food (this is important to ensure no spikes in ammonia during the initial days, adding further food will just trigger an ammonia lift). Then leave unfed for four days. A week of running the tank water prior to adding fish etc is absolutely fine and is exactly what i would normally do (and longer is fine too). Only said that just in case you were gagging to add fish LOL. I would normally say three days minimum for running everything prior to adding atm and fish. ATM needs a heated tank and a pH of 7.2 to 8 to work best. Hope that helps. Mark

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Watch my video on 'What fish and how many' as a guide for best fish options for a new aquarium.

[@janienortham3259]

Hello Mark, This cleaning method works great. I am new to aquariums and fish and have a 60L Biorb. My most recent difficulty is the brown algae that is growing everywhere and keeps the aquarium looking poorly. I have turned off the lights but I can't move it anywhere in my home that doesn't get sunlight. It is not in direct light but we have huge windows and light just pours into our home. Any ideas? Thank you!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hello Janie. Yes, bleach is a really great product for cleaning biOrb plants, ornaments etc. Glad you found the video useful... it saves a lot of scrubbing and is so easy to do, and returns everything back to looking new! "Brown algae" is a subject I plan for my next video (as it is a common problem). Brown algae (correct name for these is diatoms) is commonly associated with new tanks, but can be an ongoing problem. The main reason for them is the nutrients in your tank's water. The first check is your tank's nitrate level. If this gets to be around 15ppm and above it will promote diatoms as it provides a great food source for them. The diatoms are basically taking advantage of the free food source that is of no interest to your tanks beneficial bacteria. If your nitrates are lower than 15ppm then it basically comes down to your tank phosphates and silicate levels. Can you let me know your tank nitrate level? I can then advise some steps to reduce the issue (by the way, diatoms have no impact on your aquarium, fish etc... they just look really ugly!) Best, Mark

[@AnaSilva-xe4cn]

Hi Mark! I have the same issue with diatoms. My tanks are looking awful ha. Would it be a good idea to clean the ceramic media with bleach like all the ornaments to get rid of diatoms? I don’t want to kill the beneficial bacteria. My nitrates in both tanks are 15ppm. Thanks!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Ana. Yes, diatoms are a bit of a pain, as ALL tanks have them! If you are talking about issues in a reasonably new tank (say 4-months or less) then diatoms might just simply reflect the initial natural process... as the tank matures. How old are your tanks? Basically, it is ALWAYS best to deal with the cause rather than reverting to regularly trying to clean/remove... you will NEVER ever win!!! The main cause of noticeable diatom colonies (i.e. brown colouration) are the water's level nitrates and phosphates (and also linked to this the availability of silica). Phosphates are a key nutrient, causing a build-up of a diatom colony (i.e resulting in the obvious brown/rust coloured stuff). Phosphates can often be more problematic that nitrates, but it depends! So, it is certainly worth testing both your tap and tank water to see what levels you have. Either way, both nitrate and phosphates should be kept as low as possible to minimise diatom colonies. This is always best done by weekly water changes (1/3rd to 1/2 of the tank) and always using of a vac to remove waste (i.e. reduce the diatom supporting "nutrients") If you do a phosphate test (use this product and don't not strips: amzn.to/3FByymC). Let me know what your phosphate levels are for both your tap and your tanks. I can then advise on what you need to do to reduce the issue. If you Google the subject you will get people suggesting to either reduce aquarium lighting or to increase lighting! Ignore it, neither of these things work! There are different forms of diatoms/ brown algae in an aquarium and thus increasing or reducing lighting only promotes a different type of algae/diatom. In terms of cleaning ceramic or pearl media, PLEASE DO NOT use bleach as this will drastically reduce your beneficial bacteria and you will be back to having a brand new tank ("new tank syndrome") and possibly you will have dead fish! Bleach cleaning is very good, but should be used for periodic cleaning of decorations, plastic plants etc (and to help remove stubborn stains). It is not a method to be applied to cleaning media. If you want to clean the ceramic media (of a reasonable amount of diatoms), you would need to remove the media from the tank and then give the media a good rinse/agitation in extracted aquarium water. This is best done when doing a water change. Extract 1/3rd of your tank water into a bucket, take out the media (by hand) and add this to the bucket. Give the media a really good stir/agitation etc and then put it all back into the tank. If, whilst removing the media. you end up with a good quantity of obvious waste material at the bottom of the tank and it the tanks water, remove this waste using the vac I suggest to use on this Channel. If doing a big clean of your tank(s) it is best to follow such heavy cleaning by then adding a good dose of biological booster (such as Aquavitro Seed or ATM Colony). The heavy cleaning of a tank often reduces beneficial bacteria and will then produce cloudy aquarium water. The booster will help to boost the bacterial colony and minimise this (normally takes 24 hours). One of the best natural controls (apart from fixing your water quality) is the addition of snails (but get Nerite) as these happily spend all day (and night!) eating them. Do you have snails? I hope that helps for the time being. Best, Mark

[@AnaSilva-xe4cn]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Mark, thank you so much for your quick response! My 16 gallon tank is 2 months old and my classic 4 gallon tank is one month old. so, yes they are maturing, but the brown algae grows very fast (and my white decor looks brown buuu!) and every week I'm taking out the ornaments to clean them with a toothbrush and it's been a little time consuming, I also do weekly water changes as you recommended in another video. I'll test my phosphate water to see if that's the cause. Yes, I've cleaned the ceramic media exactly as you mentioned (I follow your channel and I love the way you explain step by step the process of cleaning and changing water) thank you for reminding me the process. And I bought the vac you suggested and it's amazing how fast I can clean my tanks! I watched your video about nerite snails too late ha, I got an otocinclus catfish and I've noticed he doesn't love the ceramic media, so I don't know if I should get a nerite snail and put it with the oto for the 16 gallon tank, and for the classic 4 gallon tank I'm scared if I put a nerite snail he could get stuck in the ceramic media (because of the bowl shape). What are your thoughts on that? Thanks again for your response and for all the amazing information you provide. I might keep asking lots of questions in the near future :)

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Thanks Ana. Sounds a bit like your tanks are still maturing but I'm not sure just leaving them to do that (that can be another approach to reduction) will fix the problem. Let me know what results you get with the phosphate test as I think this might be your issue. In terms of the Nitrate. Is the 15ppm reading the level it rises to at the point of water change? What is you nitrate level in your tap water? Generally nitrate levels over 10ppm can support brown algae/diatom growth. I have nerites in all my tanks, including Classic, without any problems. You would be better adding several of these to each tank! One isn't really going to do a great deal. If you can purchase them locally choose smaller ones rather than mature (large) ones. They generally live for about 1 year, so you will have them far longer if you can get smaller ones. You should find that they spend most of their time cleaning the tank glass and the decorations etc, less so hanging around the media. I would use bleach cleaning to clean your decorations etc. Brush cleaning may not be removing all the diatoms and any remaining diatoms can very quickly increase back in number when you add things back into the tank. In suitable conditions they can keep doubling in size in less than 24 hours! Soaking things for a little while in diluted bleach will completely remove them and you should find you don't need to clean these things so often. When you do a weekly water changes also wipe the inside the tank glass with biOrb Cleaning Pads. Use the smooth side for general cleaning and the rough side for more stubborn stains/areas. I could very easily have diatoms in all my tanks if I used my tap water just as it is. I treat my water to lower nitrate and phosphates and I don't really have much in the way of diatom issues. The snails then take care of the rest. Real plants can help a little bit in keeping phosphate/ nitrate lower, but don't expect miracles! And... white decor and diatoms isn't a match made in heaven! LoL! Best, Mark

[@amyelms6143]

Hi there Mark only me again wanting a bit if advice. How do you clean your acrylic biorbs of algae both brown and green and not scratch the acrylic any tips would love to hear them. Currently using a sponge a very soft one but can't get off stubborn algae. Is there a special product you use? Many thanks in advance

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Amy. That's easy - use biOrb Cleaning Pads! They are really good for this sort of thing within the aquarium. Don't use products designed and intended for glass cleaning. The cleaning pads have two sides - one rough the other soft. They are intended for use within the biOrb rather than the outside. The rough side is very good for stubborn marks and algae. The soft side is good for general cleaning (biofilm and that sort of thing). They are designed not to scratch acrylic. After use you can rinse them out under tap water and then let them dry out and continue to use them this way. Hope that helps. M

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

For outside of the aquarium use a microfiber cloth or instead get the biOrb Polish and Cloth product. Works a treat!

[@amyelms6143]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb thankyou so much for the advice you can tell I'm new to biorb ill be ordering them straight away I wasn't sure if you could use them in the tank with water. I'm guessing the rough side doesn't scratch the acrylic.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hey, Amy. Yes, they are designed for use within the aquarium and in water. Go for it!! I probably use them weekly! I'm going to have to say (i.e. cover myself) that most things will potentially scratch acrylic but generally these products are designed for acrylic and either side of the pads - rough or soft - won't cause you any problems. Most scratches within the aquarium (i.e water side) would not be noticeable in the slightest, due to the relationship between water and acrylic. It is scratches on the outside of the aquarium that would show up in sunlight etc. I'm always happy to rant on about (put down) some biOrb products but I'm not aware of any other product available that does the job that these do. There are alternative/ similar (i.e. non biOrb product) versions but I haven't tried them and probably wouldn't. If you keeping washing them clean after use they should last for a fair while. I just happen to have some free products given to (me) this channel directly from Oase biOrb themselves (and I plan to do giveaways to Subscribers soon). But, if you would like some, drop me a line to my email address and let me know your address and I will happily send you a free pack! My email address is included in the Video Description provided on each video. Now, how's that for service!? LOL Best, Mark.

[@janetbrevig8191]

Can you use an uv sterilizer in 4 gal biorb, my water is light green no matter what I do

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi again Janet. Yes, you can. The main problem with them is their size (most are very big and designed for large aquariums!) so you would need one that can be inserted and fit into a biOrb. I do know that the Fish R Fun Mini 3w works with biOrbs, and I assume it is still being produced. You might need to shop around to find one. BUT. I think you may need to establish the cause of the bloom and try to deal with it this way as that gives you the long term solution. You probably have looked into all of this, so, i'm sorry if I'm repeating what you already know, but just in case: The main reason for blooms is too much nutrient in the tank water (and to some extent too much light). The nutrients are mainly nitrate and/or phosphate. High levels can be in tap water (have you tested your tap water phosphate/nitrate levels?) or they are created as a result of the conditions in your tank - ultimately as a result of fish food/waste. If not in your tap water, high nutrients in your tank can be a reflection of: - Too many fish (or having fish such as goldfish) - Too much food being applied when feeding. Avoid overfeeding and try lightly, once a day. - Build up of waste within the tank (i.e. building up under the ceramic media). - General tank maintenance (regularly use a vac to support tank cleaning), frequency/amount of water changes. If the issue is within the tank water (i.e. not as a result of nutrients in your tap water), then dealing with it using all the above is the long term fix. After making sure the tank is cleaned out of waste, undertake 1/3rd water changes every three days to remove nutrients and reduce blooms until you are on top of them. Following that, maintain a regime that maintains clear water. I am not always in favour of the use of chemicals... but most of the big name products should work. Note if applying a product, you will first need to remove the filter media/activated carbon from your filter system. Don't use anything other than just the sponge during treatment. You can probably get two sponges in the filter if not using filter medium, so do that. Hope that helps. M

[@janetbrevig8191]

Do I just rinse the ceramic media, it is looking dark to. Should I just start over with new ceramic stones?

[@janetbrevig8191]

And how many fish can the 4 gallon tank handle, I have 4 glo fish

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Janet The key causes for algae blooms (green water) are high nutrients (waste, high nitrates, over-feeding etc) and/or too much light. Yes, you can use a UV filter in a biOrb but even the small filter products tend to be fairly large in size. Something like a mini green killing machine would work but even this would look big in a 4 gallon. UV filters often have two (thick) cables. This may mean you are unable to fully close the biOrbs lid whilst using the filter. Whilst UV will certainly clear your water colour, the use of a UV filter is just a fix for an underlying problem. It's similar to the alternative of applying chemicals to treat the issue! You would be far better addressing the cause issue itself. If you can let me know regarding the below questions I can advise you how to fix the problem… Is you tank situated in a place that receives direct sunlight? What is your tap water nitrate level? What is your tank’s nitrate level? How often are you undertaking water changes and cleaning the filter sponge? If you lift up a handful of the ceramic media in the tank does this release waste into the water? Are you regularly using a vac to remove waste under the media? How much/often are you feeding your fish? Best wishes Mark

[@lisabarlow6888]

Will the thin bleach soaking method change the colour of my green moss decorative stones?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Lisa. I'm going to assume you propose cleaning these with bleach solution as they are very dirty. A rinse under running, warm tap water is normally enough to clean biOrb's moss covered pebbles - followed by a soak in tap water treated with a double dose of dechlorinator before adding back to the tank. The occasional clean, using the bleach solution I describe, would be fine. Soak for 2 minutes in the 5% bleach solution before rinsing under the tap. Follow this with a soak in dechlorinated water for 5 -10 mins before adding back to the tank. Hope that helps. Best, Mark

[@lisabarlow6888]

I am a biorb newbie and just getting prepared for good cleaning Maintenance I have been doing my weekly/monthly water changes/clean ups never used the bleach method however already had a disaster with the boiling water and ruined my plants had to order new but now just coming up to the big 3 month change and didn’t want to ruin anymore decorative items.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Yes, I've been there... with boiling water and biOrb plants! They don't get on too well together do they? Lol. :) I think any form of cleaning is best undertaken when it is needed rather than doing so for the sake of doing so. The bleach solution approach is great for cleaning most biOrb products when such a clean is needed. Three months is probably that time though, and bleach cleaning is a great way to get things to look new again without having to revert to abrasion/ heavy scrubbing etc. This especially so to remove any build-up of algae/ grime etc.

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi again Lisa. I just happened to find a brand new biOrb moss pebble that I hadn't used. So, I soaked it in a 10% bleach solution (i.e twice the amount i normally suggest) and then let it soak for 6 hours! Yes, 6 hours! Answer - no change to the colour of the moss pebble! Now how's that for customer service!! Lol. Hope that helps :-)

[@christinebannister5713]

Good afternoon, great video - can I use Domestos bleach please? My pink centre piece seems to have lost it’s colour after running the tank for 4 weeks. Many thanks

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Christine. You need to use what is called "basic bleach" (i.e not thick, unscented and without soap products included). So, don't use Domestos! What you need is often called "thin bleach" and tends to be the cheapest bleach that supermarkets sell. For example: Asada Thin bleach or Tesco Springforce Thin Bleach. That sort of thing!. Hope that helps. Best, Mark

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Also, the bleach cleaning is mainly used to remove grime and any algae (brown or green) growth. If your main decor has simply lost colour within just 4 weeks (i.e. the colour has faded and it isn't for the reasons just mentioned) it sounds like it might be a product fault. If so it might be worth returning the item. Best, Mark

[@debbie2009]

Could you do a video on doing a water maintenance cleaning on a for a beginner first time. Is it a 50% change? I ordered a siphon. It will be a biOrb FLOW LED Aquarium 4 gallon white I just ordered one. I have lots to learn yikes:-). Thank you for all your great information!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Debbie. I think the following videos (and associated video descriptions) should cover what you need: kzbin.info/www/bejne/lavFaadtrLugiM0 and kzbin.info/www/bejne/p3bSnpp7epelrsk. The amount of water changed will vary according to the fish numbers and the quality of your water (mainly tank nitrate levels). I would normally suggest trying a 1/3rd of the tank's water each week, and replacing this water with fresh. Replacement water (tap water) should be treated with a dechlorinator (such as AquaSafe, to make it safe for fish) and be warmed to be a similar temp as your aquarium water before adding it in. Normally, you should be undertaking aquarium water testing weekly to check on nitrate levels, as these should ideally be kept lower than 50ppm. Rather than a siphon, I would strongly suggest you get a battery operated vacuum as these are far better option for maintaining a biOrb. They will allow you to undertake water changes and for cleaning the bottom of the tank to remove waste (siphons are only okay for undertaking water changes). This video cover vacs: kzbin.info/www/bejne/raW4YXanrZ6sm9U (if you click on the Show More you will get to the video Description that includes UK Amazon links to the correct product to get. They are a fairly low lost cost product and it is well worth getting one!! Again, the vac should also be available via USA Amazon. Hope that helps, if not, just holler. Thanks, Mark

[@SjefVanOekelDraaftDoor]

Hello Mark, hope you're doing well. After looking at this video I'm wondering what kind of bleach you are using. In Denmark we have a cleaning/bleach product with Sodium Hypochlorite (concentration 2,4 %). It has a very strong smell of chlorine. Is that the product you're using? Or does your product has a different active ingredient like hydrogen peroxide? And how often do you clean the plants and decorations? Thanks, Roel

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi Roel Thick or thin bleach basically have the same chemical composition, which is sodium hypochloriate. The concentration may vary between products but it is generally less than 5%. Thick bleach differs from thin bleach as it has added gelling agents (many thick bleach products also include other ingredients, such as soaps, perfumes, colouring and anti-scale agents) Thin bleach (or "basic bleach") will normally be the basic solution, without all the additional stuff. Thin bleach is commonly used as a general cleaning product, and used for sanitising and general cleaning. Thick bleach is largely aimed at fully disinfecting surfaces (e.g. toilets) and its added ingredients allows it to stick longer to surfaces. Hydrogen peroxide is a different product. It can be used for aquariums, but I stick with thin bleach. In your case, a thin bleach product of 2.4% sounds like a good one to get. It is also a good product to have around the house anyway! Due to the chlorine content, after soaking and then rinsing under tap water followed by soaking in a double dose of dechlorinator is very able to neutralise any remaining chlorine (bleach) product. I've used this method for many years, with no impact on biOrb products or aquatic organisms. A bleach dip solution is also good to briefly soak live plants purchased from a supplier. It tends to reduce the risk of introducing unwanted things like algae, snail young/eggs, shrimps etc. Like most things, I would tend to only use bleach cleaning when it is really needed. It is good for removing staining and for returning biOrb products back to their original condition. How often depends on the tank, quality of water (nutrient levels, nitrate etc), number/type of fish. The main culprit for triggering this sort of cleaning is algae (specifically, diatoms) or just general aquarium grime. Both of these can cause staining, especially with "silk" plants. Having a low, or a no nitrate, water supply and also having one or two snails in the tank may mean is it something you may only need to do very occasionally. In my case, probably every six months, but only if needed. Rinsing decorations, plants etc under running tap water will clean most things. New tanks may trigger a more frequent use of thin bleach with decorations and ornaments (say, every couple of months) until the tank fully settles down. Things tend to improve as a tank matures so the use of bleach potentially reduces over time, but it's always a good thing to fall back on. Hope that helps Best wishes to you, Mark

[@SjefVanOekelDraaftDoor]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hello Mark, your info surely helps again. Thank you for this and for your time 👍🏼 Best Roel

[@todaysdentalcare4049]

I came across a biorb water optimiser at a local shop. Is this any good?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Yes, get and use that if you want. I prefer to keep to the very basics and minimise additional chemicals etc. So, for me, just dechlorinator for the water and activated carbon for the filter. Add "other" things if there is a good reason for you to add, otherwise, save your money!!

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

You may want to look at getting the biOrb High-gloss polish and cloth as this is a product I really like.

[@nicolerodriguez1036]

Hi! Is Cloralen Regular Bleach considered a basic bleach?

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi again Nicole. Ive just looked up the the composition of this product and it would be fine. The key thing is to use bleach that is not thickened. Those products include a gelling agent to thicken (what would otherwise be standard bleach) to make it stick longer to surfaces. Some other bleaches can also contain soap products or colouring. It is regular, thin, basic bleach you need to use. You're fine with Cloralen regular (but not some of their other concentrated or specialised bleach products). Hope that helps. Happy cleaning! :)

[@beholder1972]

Hi Mark got a new question for you today, I have a few plants made by biorb which are silk will that discolor the silk plants? Thanks

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. I think if you overdo how often you bleach dip silk plants the colour could fade over time. If you are cleaning them to remove diatoms/algae/biofilm then the key thing is not to let them get too marked up before cleaning. Rinsing silk plants under warm tap water should keep that in check and avoid staining. I have silk plants in all tanks and I do occasionally bleach dip them, if there is any staining. To date I cant say I've noticed any real reduction in their colour. Best wishes, Mark

[@beholder1972]

@Step-by-Step Thank you very much I really enjoy watching your videos, I hope to see some new ones for this year and updates. All the best my friend.👍

[@aseeljamil320]

Hi Mark, Can you please provide a link for the thin bleach you mentioned. I live in the USA and searched for it but couldn’t find it. Everything they sell here is Clorox brand. There are many types of it, if you could link something sold in the united stated that would be greatly appreciated please 🙏🏼

[@StepbyStep-biOrb]

Hi. I have looked online for you. In terms of the American products suitable for aquarium use by Clorox, it is their product branded as “Regular Bleach”. Hope that helps. Best, Mark

[@aseeljamil320]

@@StepbyStep-biOrb thank you so much!!

[@rdh67dh]

MMS is the perfect one to use.