Birchbark Canoe Build - Part 1 - Shaping bark cover - Algonquin old model

Starting to assemble the birchbark canoe ! I finally harvested the main big bark roll and can now build the canoe. Aiming for a 15 to 16 foot birchbark canoe. first steps are unrolling on platform, laying out the building frame, weighing it down, making gores or notches in the bark and bringing the sides upwards.

[@NomadicWoodsman]

Aiming at having a video up every Friday for this boat ! Please like & share. Thank you.

[@lostnetwork5717]

its Algonquin not Algonkin

[@maplehouseknives]

Love these builds, excited for the next one!👍🍻

[@NomadicWoodsman]

Awesome !

[@timothylongmore7325]

So exicited to see a new build Nomad! My feed showed me part 5 so I got a peek at the almost final shape. Looks fine. Can't wait to watch them all , in detail. I've gotten nowhere with my build. Did,nt even get anymore bark this year, lol. Gotta live the dream through your work Steve.

[@NomadicWoodsman]

Hope you enjoy it! The canoe is almost done right now I finished putting the ribs in this week. I am soaking the top wale prior to pegging it right now.

[@danielsailors6644]

I found 1 birch big enough for my canoe and will start soon. (after searching for 4 years)

[@NomadicWoodsman]

Awesome !

[@robertdrolet5785]

oh i will follow this one, thanks!

[@NomadicWoodsman]

Great!

[@timothylongmore7325]

While watching and listening to you explain the gores i realized that they not only allow for the curvature ( parrelalel with gunnels) but also let the canoe have rocker. Like a dish shape after the frame is removed and the ribs are installed.

[@NomadicWoodsman]

Yes, the rocker is also affected by the shape of your building frame platform. By having the platform 1/2 inch higher in the middle, you have less rockers (more straight bottom). If the platform is straight you will have more rocker. Also then adding blocks to lift the ends off the platform 1 or 2 or 3 inches there, you will have added rocker at the tips of the boat. Depending on the purpose of the boat (big waves/white water / flat water) you want some rocker but not too much.

[@mushercdn]

I was expecting to see winter tires instead of rocks to hold the bark down. Cutting the bark must have been stressing. You worked so hard NOT to cut it. David Thomson, in his notes about exploring the Columbia river system, often referred to birch canoe making. Besides the difficulty of finding a suitable tree, there was the need to find one without the black lines that are often on birch bark. He said the bark would easily crack/break where the lines were. Noticed that you didn't seem to have those black lines. Ever consider taking still photographs, step by step, and making a book? Niche market for sure but all art is a niche market. And canoe building with natural materials is definitely an art. Thanks for the video. Looking forward to others.

[@NomadicWoodsman]

I have to read more of David Thompson's notes I have a couple books I haven't had time to read on him too ! Thought of doing a book or something yes that would be awesome, but running out of time with all my projects ! Lol you know the idea haha Thanks again !

[@timothylongmore7325]

My comment exactly! Cutting into the bark would be stressfull.

[@yourvinestowine2781]

Great to see you build another…very generous with the knowledge. Do you have a video on how to construct the building frame? Is there a formula for the dimension the cross pieces? All the best on this build!

[@NomadicWoodsman]

No videos on the building frame. It is a simple shape to build and go off the width and length in the book for the desired canoe. Hope this helps.Thanks for checking out my videos !

[@bradleyrobinson7552]

15 to 16 foot, eh? What length was the one you completed in late-2020? 12 or 13 ft maybe? Thanks for sharing.

[@NomadicWoodsman]

I had done a smaller boat a 10 footer birchbark hunter's canoe (Atikamekw style model). Thanks for taking the time to write a comment, appreciate you stopping by ! Steve

[@charlesleblanc6638]

Hey Steve ... Hope all is well. Knowing what you know now, do you still believe you would of needed all the close gores at the canoe ends ? And I'm wondering how important it is to tie up the gores with root, just because I've seen some builders just rely on the gum, sheathing, and rib pressure to seal the deal. Just asking what you think.

[@NomadicWoodsman]

The small stitch I do to close the gores is optional. It depended on who the builder was I think. In literature I think some tribes did the small gore stitches and some didn't. When I learned from Francois he did the gore stitches and so I learned to do it that way. It helps to hold the bark shape upright and in place. So when you take out your building frame and go to put in your inwale (inner gunwale) everything keeps it's shape. It may add a little bit of strength for the ''ribs pressure'' later on. I never tried a canoe without the small gore stitches personally, but i do think one could do without them.

[@charlesleblanc6638]

@@NomadicWoodsman Makes sense that it would be stronger, and like you said some builders use them some don't. My first question I didn't explain myself well, Do you think the bark would of still shaped good with less gores so close together at the Canoes ends ? Just wondering. The Canoe looks fantastic. Thanks .. If ever your down through the Maritime look me up I owe a good meal !

[@NomadicWoodsman]

Yes you can make less gores, especially on the canoe ends. I made the exact same gores and spacing as was in the plan i followed for the algonquin old style in edwin tappan adney's book. The 3 gores at the end are for shaping the hull upwards at that area. By bringing up the stem of the canoe a bit, the gores fold on themselves to take some of the excess bark. The gores are really for shaping the canoe. If you had a more straight canoe with less sheer you could have less gores at the ends. You still need gores in the middle of the canoe as you need to fold upwards the bark to shape the canoe .... sometimes when there's a bump or a curvature in the bark (crooked tree) you are able to make a decent canoe with some gores, it helps to shape it the way you want it. Although it has it's limitations and you need a nice straight tree as much as possible.A crooked tree usually makes a big crack in the bark roll. Some of these cracks in the bark roll are used as the gores, so depending on where you get cracks when you collect your bark, you can still make a beautiful canoe. Hope that answers ! @@charlesleblanc6638

[@charlesleblanc6638]

@@NomadicWoodsman Definitely answered my question Steve and I appreciate it. I know what you mean about the bark on crooked trees. A few that I peeled were like this, and I had to actually peel the bark in two different sections. I will need to make the main part of the canoe bark in two or three sections which should reduce the amount of gores needed at the ends at least. Thanks Again !

[@charlesleblanc6638]

Perfect timing .. Since I've also caught the "Canoe Flu" ! So if I try peeling bark now it should still be winter bark ? Did you find any kind of tricks/clues on finding bark that's thick enough ? That bark you peeled looks a bit like gray birch.

[@NomadicWoodsman]

I just went yesterday to pick my winter bark. If leaves are just barely out, or not out yet, yes it will be winter bark. I did a video yesterday and talked in depth about everything winter bark. Just have to edit and post now. stay tuned. Not sure on your location / weather but yes early May is usually winter bark time.

[@charlesleblanc6638]

@@NomadicWoodsman Thanks .. I went a couple days ago as well, and bark wasn't peeling yet here in NB. Can you give me clues of what type of environment to look for when looking for thick, leathery bark ? I have Big white birch that I can't wrap my arms around but yet the bark is thin.

[@NomadicWoodsman]

@@charlesleblanc6638 The only way is to take a small sample at the trunk and verify the thickness. You can cut a small piece off about 2 inches by 2 inches and see what the thickness is. It is mainly trial and error, and you may have to look at alot of trees. My atikamekw friends gave me a tip that when there is alot of moss/lichen lik usnea growing on the bark, then it is good bark. I have to agree with his tip, I've had luck with bark that is more dark in colour than white and also that has lichen mosses growing on the tree. For winter bark, the bark will not be peeling. You must painstakingly rub it off it is alot of work to get it off. If the bark is peeling then it will be summer bark and be in june with big leaves and temperatures of 25 C or so.

[@NomadicWoodsman]

@@charlesleblanc6638 Also, sometimes the bark right at the base of the tree is thinner (where there is snow on the ground). So take a sample and usually harvest the bark about 2-3 feet from where the roots are. The first 2 feet wil probably be thinner bark, if the bark at 4 feet is also thin then the whole tree will be thinner.

[@charlesleblanc6638]

@@NomadicWoodsman Hey thanks a hole bunch ... I will keep all this in mind. Did you find trees with these characteristic in low lands more then higher ground ? I will be watching your winter Bark video. Thanks again ... Hope you don't mind the questions !

[@Give0002]

I'm always happy when I find a new craft video on You Tube...but then they start talking. Again and again boring stuppide talk. Everyone seems to forget that people who do NOT speak English also like to watch such videos. Silent videos are just better. I can see what they're doing in the video...you don't have to document THAT too!!

[@mushercdn]

The dialogue helps me understand what is going on and, especially, why things are done as they are. I would be lost without it. However, you have the option turning the sound off and still understanding.

[@bonpecheur4565]

@@mushercdn Yea its so simple to do , you have to be stupid to forget you can mute the volume if you dont want to listen