Birchwood Super-Blue vs Brownell Oxpho-Blue Cold Bluing Tabletop Review - Episode

[@pablomaslykin9614]

Nice work, I will be waiting for the next tabletop review, thanks

[@mickmacstabletopreviews8466]

You are very welcomed. Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching. Don't forget to like, share and subscribe. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on KZbin and Rumble.

[@frankbrowning328]

Give my process a try. I've used Birchwood Casey cold blue for several decades now and I've found the 3 things that help most are #1 heat, #2 multiple coats, #3 Oil. Clean the metal very, very well and then add heat- Get the metal hot enough that it becomes uncomfortable to hold for more than a minute. You can use hot water, a heat gun or an oven. Apply the blueing as evenly as possible and allow to sit for 1 full minute. Rince in near boiling water and dry with a very clean cotton cloth. card off with 0000 steel wool. clean with alcohol, rinse with hot water again. dry with cotton cloth and apply blueing. Repeat the process at least 8 times. Sometimes a metal will be reluctant to take the blueing and I will increase the heat and increase the coats to 12-15 coats. Reember you must heat the part to be blued each time you add another coat of blueing. Once the blueing is finished, once again heat the piece till its uncomfortable to handle and coat it good gun oil. Lightly rub the oil in and let it sit until it is completely cool. All steel tends to react differently to cold blue. The more additives to the steel, the more resistent it is to blueing. There are steels that will take the cold blueing very well and have a good degreee of retention while other steels do not turn as dark and rub off relatively easily. However, adding heat, multiple coats and an oil quench at the end of the process gives the blueing the best chance at a dark finish that lasts as long as a cold blue can

[@mickmacstabletopreviews8466]

Thanks for the information and for taking the time to share. Greatly appreciated. Don't forget to like, share and subscribe. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on KZbin and Rumble.

[@frankbrowning328]

@@mickmacstabletopreviews8466 thanks. Been subscribed for awhile

[@tonyz2897]

I wonder where is the line when dealing with rust pitting and gouges where a person is ahead to skip the bluing in favor of a coating like Duracoat, Ceracoat, or Aluma-Hyde that allow you to fill the low spots before application? I'm working on a Ruger standard that was left in a leaky camper for years and trying to decide which way to go with refinishing. Nice result, and thanks for the video!

[@mickmacstabletopreviews8466]

Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Regarding Duracoat, etc., good question. I'd say this pistol would have been a very good candidate. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on KZbin.

[@34dawgsgo]

Have some BC Perma Blue I plan on using on my late parent's old Colt 25. Thanks for the steps.

[@mickmacstabletopreviews8466]

You are very welcome. Good luck on your project. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Don't forget to like, share and subscribe. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on KZbin and Rumble.

[@maxhoyle2134]

I have had good luck with blue paste but heating the metal first

[@mickmacstabletopreviews8466]

Thanks for the information and for taking the time to share. Greatly appreciated. Don't forget to like, share and subscribe. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on KZbin and Rumble.