Finally finished my dream studio setup 😍

[@matthewmikulka9596]

You can get a rgb defuse strip to hide each individual light

[@The1stMusicbaby7]

This

[@ollie3220]

Techsource? 😂

[@mark_gearhart]

Was thinking about commenting this but glad someone beat me to it. THIS

[@Carterthielftw_]

I really hope he sees this...

[@akcel]

This. Amazon: led strip diffuser. You can add them to existing strips

[@mamoonrashid2592]

Uses G9 just to "Fill up the wall" Savage

[@andrewwildman7052]

not just a G9, a second Gen G9 Neo review unit, worth 2500, those microledsssssss man!

[@dyna6448]

@@andrewwildman7052 is it really a Neo G9?

[@sakethkumar7458]

@@dyna6448 yea😐

[@Tartug1]

@@andrewwildman7052 Here I am setting here with a basic Samsung Odyssey G9.... Though I doubt the difference is that big between them anyway. At least for my use....

[@LanceVastine]

I can’t lie, I’m extremely jealous of your setup...

[@jakobe_bryantgaming5580]

If anyone is gonna do a dream setup, its someone with closets full of pc parts

[@issdar]

Jealous or envious?

[@LanceVastine]

@@issdar Haha, both!!

[@jamie352]

who aint lol

[@seanroach8126]

who isnt???

[@PabzRoz]

I swear set up videos/ series like this is some of my favorite content on KZbin. I love to watch the creative build process in detail and also take inspiration for myself.

[@jasonluvisi]

"Why did you create an insane top of the line setup?" Bitwit: I needed something to fill the empty space

[@jordanhannah3912]

Kyle: Makes error in something Kyle: D E C O R !

[@cosiney]

*D E C O R !*

[@toastvibezz295]

D E C O R !

[@Lilcreativeboy]

What is decor

[@cosiney]

@@Lilcreativeboy decoration

[@brenden3500]

I’m glad Kyle either changed up his editor or the editor cut down on the memes because they were really overused in previous videos but this one he used them well and they weren’t overused.

[@ThePhantomCoder]

yeah

[@northwiebesick7136]

Last I checked he was editing the videos himself... So any errors are because he's being too, Lyle, I guess is the word... I don't have any evidence of that, of course, but I know he was looking for an editor according to a video a few months ago... If I remember correctly, wifey- uh, I mean, his ex, did his video editing, but, being his ex now, well, idk much about the situation, aside from one left the other, and Kyle removed her from everything social media of his and whatnot, and I assume that's also why he started editing his own videos... Maybe he got a video editor recently, but if he did, he hasn't actually came out and officially introduced us to him or her yet...

[@jonmayer]

Probably won't get another editor due to, issues?...

[@darryljack6612]

The G9 is like my Dream monitor. Cool to see it implemented into your setup. Superultrawides are just the best.

[@pafawag5b6b5b]

when you buy a 1500 dollar monitor 'just to fill up the space'

[@gregchapman5435]

That is a 2500$ monitor - the new G9 Neo mini-led. :P

[@ModrunOfficial]

@@gregchapman5435 what? when did that come out

[@khaled_2249]

@@ModrunOfficial 2 days ago

[@gregchapman5435]

@@ModrunOfficial its announced, and there are reviews out there on it but I am not sure when it will go on sale. It's an option above in the Amazon link Kyle posted for the G9.

[@butosai2539]

@@gregchapman5435 he's got the old one

[@Drifterrrr]

Turn the PC sideways and use some cable sleeves to hide the cables

[@darioparisi6863]

He wants that the PC is easily viewable for the stream too!! XD XD!!

[@SciPunk215]

Neon lights in a recording studio? You might want to look into that before making any purchases. Audible noise as well as electrical interference leaching into your signal paths are common pitfalls with neon.

[@DirgePsytrance]

For future reference, if you're applying any sort of SAV (self-adhesive vinyl) like the concrete film you applied to your studio wall, you can do the following to avoid having that little gap you pointed out - this is assuming you actually apply SAV more than once ever and are interested in signage application techniques (classic stitch-up if you're not - but no stress, haha) I don't know how any of these metric measurements will convert to imperial so just do whatever seems closest - I still can't believe you guys use that system, haha. First and foremost - overlap each run of vinyl by 10mm - problem solved pretty much immediately, that saves you the stress and hassle of trying to apply it upwards to meet the bottom of the first run like you were doing here. Unless you're using cast vinyl which retains its physical memory over time when it is heated and stretched (hence why it's used to wrap cars), the vinyl will inevitably shrink over time and that gap will get way worse. Maybe this has already happened as it's been a year. Second, and as a separate fix if you didn't do the first thing - cut a 10mm strip off the excess you cut off already and apply this over the top of that gap. Not the prettiest fix but if you're installing something in front of it, it is very unlikely to matter. In terms of tools - you're right about the vinyl applicator. I'd add that you should pretty much always use the foam side - the bare plastic side will get nicks in it over time and you'll get areas that aren't applied properly as a result - all throughout the piece of vinyl, total nightmare especially if it's on a plastered wall. In terms of trimming to size before you apply and then the order of application - do it the other way round to what you've done here, using that 10mm overlap. Unless you've like heat sealed the overlap, over time it will collect dust / other crap in it and if the overlap is facing upwards (ie: the top vinyl has gone on first), it'll start to fail - apply the bottom run first and overlap it with the top. When applying the vinyl - if you want to ensure it runs as perfectly straight as possible and works long-term: 1) Wipe every part of the wall that the SAV is going on with wet rag and then a dry one - give it a minute or two so it's proper dry, don't use solvents on paint lol 2) Rip some bits of tape and stick those bits of tape to your shirt / somewhere easy to access 3) Pin (with your hands not pins lol) the film roughly in position 4) Tape one side - just put a bit of tape perpendicular to the edge of the film (so it's horizontal and centred) - aren't you glad you put some bits of tape on your shirt already? 5) Measure both sides, adjust each side to suit your measurements (ie: measure from the top of that desk) - adjust only one side at a time obv. so the whole thing doesn't fall off the wall. It still might if you haven't cleaned the wall or the tape is low-tac / cheap, just persist 6) When it's level, put a huge vertical piece of tape right down the guts of it (called a hinge in signage application) 7) Hold the squeegee (applicator) flush on top of one of the edge pieces of tape, along one edge of the film - so the squeege's edge sits right on the place where the tape on the wall and tape on the SAV meet - grab the film from the top of that corner and give it a quick pull downwards whilst you're holding the tape with the squeegee - now you have a reference mark to keep it straight (assuming the tape has ripped instead of just falling off because it's shit tape, haha) You have two options next 1) Pull the SAV across to the other side so the face of the vinyl is against the other face (tl;dr - fold it in half against the wall) - take the backing paper on this side off completely - when you've pulled the backing paper off, just pin the adhesive side with your finger. You can lick your finger so it doesn't stick to the SAV (don't like slobber it, just a little to disrupt the adhesive for a sec). 2) Cut the backing paper that you've pulled off with a real sharp knife (so you get a clean cut and don't get heaps of fluffy bits along the cut) and in as straight a line as you can 3) Pull the vinyl back with a fair degree of tension and pin it so that the tape on the SAV and the tape on the wall line up - you want the SAV to look as flat as possible (picture you're smoothing out your doona cover - you can tell when it's not flat because of the ripples right?) OR - if you're concerned about the SAV sticking to the wall in the wrong spot and never, ever coming off without RIP your wall (as is the case with some high-tac wall films) 1) If you have a snitty (it's a signage tool - get one if you are gonna do this more than once, you can find them online), pull the backing paper back and snit the middle of the backing paper - now it's in two halves. You can also attempt this with a super sharp knife blade - just feed the blade in between the backing paper and the SAV. I wouldn't recommend this if you are not familiar with the technique though as there's a good chance you'll just cut the vinyl by accident in doing so. 2) Now that you've cut the backing paper in two but it's still on the SAV, fold 50mm of the side you've got pinned back against itself - pin the SAV back against the wall with that fold sitting underneath the rest of the backing paper - and then just apply it like you did in the video, the difference being that you're doing it from the middle outwards and the SAV is still pinned against the wall so it stays straight. When the backing paper reaches the tape that is joining the SAV to the wall, snap it again and then just do the rest like you did in the video but holding the SAV close to the wall so you can check the tape marks are still lining up 3) Apply the other half using either of the above two methods for application If you still don't get it straight after all that (which is easy if you haven't done it heaps of times and even then you can still mess it up) - you can: 1) Use a heat gun to temporarily disrupt the adhesive and pull it back from the wall to try again - pull the film against itself (so face-to-face, as opposed to perpendicular and outwards from the wall towards you - that's rip city for the plaster). Do this at your own risk though, haha. You can also do this to remove it when it's old - there's a much higher chance it'll be a re-plaster / paint or at least a patch job in that instance though. 2) Using a really super sharp knife (you can get laser-cut black blades online from signage shops, OLFA make them - at least in Aus anyway), take a ruler (which is gonna be better than trying to use a level because of the lower depth) and mark a straight line - it's easiest to just put some small measurement marks before this so you know where to put the ruler. Take the ruler again and then, using a very light amount of pressure, trim along / beyond the line (the latter if you want to ensure you don't see the pen marks). Be real careful of your fingers if you use a flat ruler - preferable to use a ruler that has a finger-guard but those are usually a bit pricey and it's probably only worth getting if you wanna do this more than once / regularly. Because the section of vinyl you're cutting off will be small (like 10mm max I'd recommend - which still leaves heaps given how much excess you cut off at the start), it'll have much less chance of damaging the paint and plaster. Still ensure you pull it against itself instead of outwards and towards you. If you want to remove the film after a while (so not to fix it while applying it as per above suggestion - this is different) and try not to damage the wall, you can try rubbing a solvent like methylated spirits / turps on the face of the vinyl to weaken the adhesive before removal. You can also use a heat-gun. Obviously be mindful about rubbing solvent on it and then using a heatgun on it, however - it's never caught fire in the years I've done signage (yet, haha) but it is a great way to fume yourself out. Otherwise, just pull the vinyl against itself (not towards you and outwards) and repair the patches that it creates - pulling it against itself will help to minimize the damage caused. Change the angle that you're pulling it on if it starts to tear paint / plaster (ie: jiggle it upwards if you're pulling it downwards). Hopefully that's helpful to you or some rando on the internet, haha

[@Mr.DISRESPECT]

You just wrote a whole essay just about SAV. man, I see your dedication. Good shit

[@feeterican]

When you were putting up those LED's the first thing that popped in my head was Angle Iron. Now you don't have to get iron but you can get aluminum angle and that would probably look good and add the wall that you want. Also, if you don't like the look of the aluminum under there you could always vinyl wrap it.

[@StevieGTO4]

They make LEDs defuse raceways that go in corners.

[@icanmakeeverythingilovedie9861]

I personally use the Muzata Flexible LED channels, and they work well enough for diffusing the visible leds around my setup.

[@wmcdoogle]

Yes! Aluminum tracking cleans up the ribbon runs, they even make an aluminum u shaped channel that comes with a diffusion for a clean look. Just search for led channel in 8ft lengths at like an LED supply store. Plenty of stuff available in LA.

[@gyulamasa6512]

@@wmcdoogle This was my first idea too (the right angle, 3/8" (or whatever measure it is for 9-10mm) aluminium ). They are really cheap and widely available from all hardware stores. I bought some for my warn white background lights. Those channels are also available in a 45°angle.

[@Britec09]

Sweet setup Kyle

[@andrewguzman6086]

thanks

[@asafberger4108]

Hi britec

[@lwazijuniorncongwane1589]

I have no words either than "that's cool"

[@Gamingtechgg]

question is do you want it ?

[@rithinnandrew805]

Those are words.

[@lwazijuniorncongwane1589]

@@asimhussain8716 nah you're wrong

[@johnnygregorio7200]

thank you for continuing to put out new content! my mom passed away yesterday and its been rough, but your videos help me escape for a little while and give me enjoyment..please keep the vids coming, they help people in more than 1 way

[@itsregie]

Maybe use a LED strip diffuser. Also, ever thought of investing in a laser level

[@mrsubzero780]

6:43 is giving me a real throwback to when MS Tech got huge!

[@RohanDasRD]

true

[@kylexu227]

"Nothing ever goes wrong in any of my videos" famous last words

[@OXMStudios]

Might just be me, but Everytime someone says ''famous last words'' MCR starts playing in my head 🤣

[@colinoscopyyyy8104]

It was a joke

[@stickfee299]

@@colinoscopyyyy8104 um we know

[@seano7901]

@@OXMStudios Was just listening to that song!

[@colinoscopyyyy8104]

@@stickfee299 You know. “SPYderr” doesn’t.

[@MorpheusXTRM201]

If your going with the picture idea, get them with the metal plates that are magnetic and ez to adjust. For the LED hot spots, try an diffused acrylic block and stick it close to or about 1 in apart from the strip.

[@alop53O1]

Buy a diffusion thing for the leds on Amazon it’d probably only cost like $25

[@sorelymistaken1176]

I said the same thing lol

[@youdidntaskforthisbuthereitis]

Hey Kyle, you could get an acrylic diffuser strip that will prevent the direct-bulb action of the RGB. It's light, flexible, and if you happen to mount it crooked, you can gently remove it and re-apply it without damage. They work great when you can't fully hide the strip itself. Also, some brands allow you to choose the transparency level in % of allowed light through as well.

[@Spideryote]

13:53 Wasn't expecting Papa Muta to make a meme cameo 👌

[@steev-sensei]

Get 1/2 white courter round and put it in front of the LED strips. It'll hide it and defuse the light. Also you should get some caulk and put it on the cracks where the shelves meet up. On camera it should make it look like 1 self. Finally consider painting the silver brackets because they stand out like crazy.

[@Samurai_Don]

KYLE! Try using the Govee Glide RGBIC Smart Wall Light's to stop that nasty light strip hot spots there pretty dope < 3.

[@PopTickles]

With your studio coming along so nicely, it would be great to see videos with other folks filmed there in the future. Great environment for videos, great job!

[@x_pogboy5082]

Using a $2000 dream monitor to “fill up the space”

[@minimum4418]

Just get a 50€ monitor and be happy with it.

[@VolcanoPenguin]

I saw "Odyssey Neo" on the box, which means it is the newest miniLED one. That's 2500 buckaroos if the packaging is labeled correctly.

[@CS11]

@@minimum4418 why tho, he will probably use it sometimes and he spent a lot on the setup already, would be weird to just go cheap on the last thing

[@BartokandBadIdeas]

Could use a long, thin strip of diffusion material for the leds, that would look pretty cool and appear really clever

[@shubhkapoor4057]

Honestly hook up the G9 setup with some wireless peripherals.

[@shanedixon6627]

I appreciate the Ambient Gold at the end! One of my favorite chill songs to stream.

[@PregnantFreddyKrueger]

Can't wait to see Lyle mess with that setup. 😂

[@JHayes90]

That last clip with all the lighting was fire. Always pays to stick around til the end.

[@kasper_429]

"Nothing ever goes wrong in any of my videos." **Sagging shelves and monitor, as well as uneven vinyl wrap has entered the chat**

[@Vandal2727]

try pulling your floating shelves out a bit from the wall and mount the LEDS behind them (or on top, the light will flicker down), did that with mine and it looks great.

[@rastanz]

Tsk tsk, always wear eye protection even when drilling something as simple as holes for wall shelves and brackets. Love the super ultra-wide monitor though!

[@scottforti94]

Pro tip @bitwit always put the cut side of anything against the wall where no one will see it. You always want factory edge to factory edge for the most clean and flush look 😎 Much love my dude 🖤✌

[@905Speed]

SO good, love that I actually had some input on the setup! LONG LIVE WRKHRS3 lol

[@LexxDesign3D]

Kyle instead of a wall to hide to LED hotspots, just buy/build a diffuser to mount directly under the shelf and it will diffuse the lighting even better than it is already ♥️

[@DuracellDoubleA]

The greatness of early and seeing that sick setup

[@dr.zippymcscoots8725]

Kyle, with the issues your dealing with its nice to see you exicted as a little kid who just got his own big room. Have fun with this project.

[@Graphics_Card]

I am 1 step closer to being like him! I literally am almost done with mine.

[@plapbandit]

@RTX 3090 MSRP No. Real men superstack Voodoo 5s for them FPS gains

[@jakobe_bryantgaming5580]

Sup bro its mex

[@tychai3114]

rather than a tiny wall to cover the rgb hotspot i would suggest getting a diffusor. they make it into an even dispersed bar of light and looks oh so nice.

[@74862]

Your studio looks like the MicroCenter version of what BestBuy’s Magnolia section should look like

[@angrypepecancer5205]

Its amazing that you can put the wallpaper straight

[@kasper_429]

"It's just so insanely long that it's hard for me to physically wrap my arms around it and carry it anywhere." *TWSS*

[@Red-uf4hr]

Put a piece of trim in front of the led under the shelf. It’ll look cleaner. You can use white caulking to full in the gaps on the shelf

[@VainSoftGames]

Not a huge fan of the 60fps with the camera moving around so much.

[@13GVJ]

You could try the "Cloud look" for your RGB, where you put white cotton batting over the strips. Looks awesome

[@xlUIblisUlx]

They sell aluminum channel diffusers that would be perfect at diffusing those RGB hotspots under your shelf, you can find them on Amazon.

[@bobbl]

Kyle, I'd put a 1x2" (white) wood strip in front of the LED strips on the top shelf to eliminate seeing the LED's directly.

[@mj1s735]

As far as for that big crate goes that the monitor was in, get yourself a dolly, the kind that you can convert to a cart if you need to. I have one and I use it for furniture boxes, crates, boxes and everything in between. And thanks for showing us how that RGB bling looks with the lights off!

[@unlucky6737]

As wall dekoration you can use Displates, those are really nice

[@duckerz6048]

For your led strips you should get a V-Shaped Aluminum LED Channel System. All you have to do is put the led strips into the thing and when you mount it, you won't see the hotspots and it just looks neater!!!

[@JonLupen]

Yo Kyle, it's possible to take a few strips of a crown molding of your choice, put it in front of the LED strips, so you'll still get the under-glow, but no hot spots, unless you're unreasonably low down.

[@nrgamingtech2797]

That tower placement reminds me of those left handed/inverted cases, I'm considering one since I'm also going to place my tower on the left

[@mrexile09]

For the LED hot spots, you can get a mold at Home Depot and have it cut to the length because they’re like 16-18 feet long and also in white about 1 inch thick, just add adhesive strips and boom, done. Would cost maybe 4-6 bucks

[@johnboyer144]

you could get some kind of laminate strip that you can put on the front face of the shelf to both hide the imperfections, but also if you get one wide enough you can obscure the ARGBs on the back wall.

[@ZRubidium]

Gotta say, the work you've done in this studio, is amazing. Well done and great job.

[@darth-matt92]

I don't know the proper words to use but what I call them is door jambs or window casing or molding but if you look those up you should come across som nice slim pieces of wood for those hot spots I'd recommend using a simple one and place it just in front of the lights should help in my opinion. Also looks great so far can't wait to see it fully decorated

[@FiresGoDeep]

Ditch the rgb. Get some neons(neon lightstrips). You have to choose only one color, but, no hot spots. Just lit. you can get some dimmers if they dont already come with it. I have some that are actually usb powered. there are some aftermarket usb dimmers you can get aswell. Works a treat.

[@linnoff]

You could buy a wood or laminate edging strip to put along the front of the shelf. It would probably both help with the overall alignment for that last little bit of sag and also cover over the two seams, small as they are.

[@MindstabThrull]

I might suggest that if the monitor is tilted down just slightly, that might make it easier to view, depending on how high it is compared to where you're sitting. Sometimes I think my monitor is a bit higher than I want it but not by enough to actually move it. A small tilt downward would be enough. I guess the biggest question is how well does the bracket support the monitor?

[@mousey92]

If you mill a little groove into that top shelf, you can push the RGB strips in there and you won't have any hotspots on your streaming camera. Otherwise you can just get a little l-strip at a local hardware store and put that in front of the RGBs to "diffuse" them

[@rangersmith4652]

Kyle, you should place a white vertical panel to the right of the G9 to serve as a zone break between your gaming area and the workshop.

[@paulmitchell4968]

You are one lucky man to have all that sweet sweet tech! The studio looks great!

[@Maximusrex4575]

Maybe for the G9 PC, you can turn it so the side panel faces to the front, and rig some kind of white panel with vents for airflow to cover the back of the PC. I think that way it can be enjoyed from most angles in the room. I do wish you talked about the star projector you used at the end.

[@JasonAguirre]

Another way to do the marks for the brackets on the bottom of the shelves is to put a piece of masking tape on the bracket, poke the holes, then just put the tape where you want the bracket. Easier than trying to hold the bracket still while making marks at what is probably an awkward angle.

[@NoobSniper]

BEAUTIFUL setup! 💯 If I may recommend, you could get LED channels for the Govee strip(s) and that will disperse the light/eliminate the visible hotspots.

[@Robert.a._]

You should’ve waited for the Odyssey *Neo* G9 which features a mini LED backlight. Definitely would have been a really nice display, but the standard one is good too.

[@zacmanning7829]

Quarter round trim would work great for covering the leds under the shelf, cheap and super easy

[@Usteen95]

Turn the side of the computer opposite of the glass towards the wall. You can see it while gaming on that computer and it will be in your stream as well. You'll just need to find a way to hide the cables coming out of the rear of the case. Either go wireless on as much of it as possible, find a fake plant big enough to block a lot of the cables plugged into the computer, and/or just make the cables look super clean coming our of the rear of the case.

[@PoserGalore]

Please sir, use a light defusing strip to tone the led strips a bit. They would look perfect!

[@Moku_B_Official]

If you have to, just shim the bottom of the wall Mount bracket so it evens out the downward tilt. Looks crazy good though!

[@alphaownsyou]

If I ever can do like a full gameroom setup or custom pc build not built by me I absolutely would want Kyle to do it for me. Love your ideas and choices with builds and setups.

[@MrCmayhew69]

Try some of the plastic/wood trim to help cover the LEDs. could probably glue it or use dbl sided addhesive to hold it up.

[@goodfoot3425]

I just used corner moulding to hide my led strips and it worked awesome. It’s cheap 5 dollars for 8ft but if you use it you should try and stick the strip to the mounding it will have beautiful clean lines.

[@raufnawaz981]

You can just diffuse the leds it looks really good and it will block the hotspots

[@cappachino20]

I'd honestly watch videos of Kyle just building stuff in general. His montages kinda just show off his know how? Idk it's satisfying watching a fellow handyman

[@edwinothe3rd540]

I recomend getting getting pillow stuffing and put it on the rgb strip and it would look like clouds

[@tomikuusla925]

It looks good. Don't overdo it. Thanks for sharing all the nitty gritty details.

[@VeNinjaK]

You should run an identical RGB strip on the upper side of the shelving once you get items on it. Would look pretty bits.

[@brothermel9702]

That is a sick setup dude👍🏾. I need the entire playlist of music from this vid in my life asap.

[@7991matt]

You could buy led strip light diffusing covers/strips that basically clip over the strip. Can even get them on amazon! It's like an opaque plastic that diffuses the light therefore getting rid of the hotspots as you call them

[@TheFridge09]

Kyle go find some of those clear diffuser strips to hide away that RGB glow will make it look great!!!

[@yambo59]

Kyle youre BACK better than ever & were all here to take it in-!! Lovin' this setup since you started, I see lots of subscriber envy in the coming era--LOL

[@grantdesmonie4928]

Put a defused on the leds it like a thin semitransparent piece of acrylic and it really helps

[@kehnandarnes5049]

If you get an opaque tubing and put the lighting in there it makes it really great

[@emxmanu]

You should buy some led channel diffuser for the LED's under the shelf. The hotspots are very visible and this item will make it WAY cleaner.

[@mpgcamo]

@Kyle - Put small aluminum angle on the underside of the shelf in front of the leds. Thats will look nice and remove the hotspots.

[@Its_Mee_Bee]

Get white, quarter-round trim strips and put it in front of the led strips. It’ll make the shelf look like it has a moulding strip, and the hot spots will disappear

[@cody2470]

I feel you on that wall mount man. I love my curved ultra wide but the wall mounts available aren’t great. I’ve just succumbed to the slight tilt towards me lol, love the concrete effect too man. You’re very handy!

[@Fishbait075]

1. Rotate the streaming PC 90 degrees, so the front faces the streaming monitor... You can then see it from your stream position, and you can see the side window from both rigs? 2. Defuse your LEDs by fitting some of that cable channel you like, but in white... doubles up as a handy cable tray for anything you might need to get from one end to the other?

[@sszduke2485]

If you have the joining brackets on the top of the shelf you can cover them easy and they won’t be seen

[@drowley]

INVERTED PC BUILD!!! 🔥 Everything looks amazing!

[@shadowhwk99]

A frosted plastic strip, inch wide maybe, could diffuse the RGB strip to hide the hot spots. or maybe plastic wall corner protectors in white. Since they are ‘L’ shaped you could mount them on the underside to hang down and hhide the RGB hot spots. idk, just some thoughts

[@s1gne]

There are diffusers for the led strips, looks great and it's easy to mount over the led strips.

[@ATR__-rf5op]

Get some frosted tube and cut it into fourths and mount it to the bottom of the shelf and the wall and it will defuse the hot sports and give it a great look.

[@RobertThompson-dk2eo]

Door jamb seals that match the shelf could work. They come in strips long enough for complete doors. That would be enough for that length.

[@ArhumJB]

Kyle is very crafty, seeing him take measurements and set things up fairly quickly.

[@NickPittas]

Add a couple of washers at the bottom two screws of the vesa backplate that connects to the monitor so it tilts upwards. That way your tilt would be zeroed by the washers pushing the backplate screws. Done it a million times and the tilt is gone, with no hard modding needed! Washers FTW!